Enclosure Ventilation. A „smarthome“ approach

Mk3S+in a cool room getting MINTEMP errors after firmware update

Finding infill % in gcode

Set-screw fell out of print head- What to do?

What exactly does the “Speed” option in the “Tune” settings do?

Shipping information

<p>Every FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) printer requires a First Layer Calibration, which <strong>sets the vertical "Z" distance between the nozzle and the print surface</strong>. Sometimes this value needs <strong>a slight adjustment</strong> and for this situation, there is an option called "<strong>Live adjust Z"</strong> <em>(as you are mostly tuning it live during the first layers of your print).</em> The reason for adjusting the distance is to mostly <strong>provide better adhesion</strong> of the extruded filament.</p>
<h3><strong>How does it work?</strong></h3>
<p>It is important to know the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>the default value before the First layer calibration starts at zero (0.000) for all printers</li>
<li>to get <strong>closer to the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>counter-clockwise</strong> and further <strong>increase the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.500 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.700...)</li>
<li>to get <strong>further from the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>clockwise</strong> and continue <strong>lowering the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.700 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.500...)</li>
</ul>
<p>The values of the <em>Live adjust Z</em> are typically in the range of -1.500 to -0.200. Going above zero into the positive values is not possible, this indicates either an issue with the measuring sensor (M.I.N.D.A., P.I.N.D.A., SuperPINDA) or incorrect alignment.</p>
<p>The correctly assembled print head has <strong>the sensor always slightly above the nozzle</strong>, never at an equal level or below the nozzle (see the picture below). <em>The exact position can slightly vary, use the last chapter of the assembly manual of your printer to set the rough distance.</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04.jpeg" alt="" width="718" height="350" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S extruder</em></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (while printing)</h3>
<p>The most common approach is to perform the <em>Live adjust Z</em> during the print. Go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt;</em> <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z.</em></span> This will show the <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z</em></span> value you have set in the First layer calibration. From here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p>The <strong>Original Prusa MK4</strong> and <strong>Original Prusa XL</strong> are equipped with a loadcell, which will calibrate the first layer automatically. In case you would still like to fine-tune it, you can long-press the knob while the first layer is printed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-600x194.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-800x258.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-300x97.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-768x248.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">PRO tip: shortcut from the main screen, while printing the first few layers press and hold the knob for a few seconds to access the <em>Live adjust Z</em> screen.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Adjusting Live adjust Z value while printing is permanent</strong>, not only for the ongoing print! The new value will also remain after you turn OFF the printer.</div>
</div>
<div>In the picture below you can see examples of different <em>Live adjust Z</em> values. If the nozzle is too high from the surface, the filament won't stick properly (left), if the nozzle is too close to the surface, the filament won't be able to "flow out" leading to a potential clog of the nozzle (right).</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" alt="" width="1132" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (before the print)</h3>
<p>You can also change the value while the printer is at rest from <em>LCDMenu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Live adjust Z.</em> You will see the value set previously during the First layer calibration, and from here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-600x194.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-800x258.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-300x97.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-768x248.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<p><strong>The Live adjust Z should be used only to fine-tune the distance</strong>. For example, PETG and other high-temperature materials require to be squished in the surface slightly more as they tend to warp (lift up), compared to the PLA. If you have replaced the sensor or disassembled the print head (extruder) you should run the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> instead.</p>
<div> </div>


Live adjust Z

VAT (Value Added Tax) & Customs fees

<p>The Original Prusa FDM printers have a sensor to detect distance from the print surface. During a calibration, and before each print, the sensor will go through a number of points, in a grid pattern, spread across the build-plate (whether it is a powder-coated or smooth PEI sheet does not matter), and measures the distance to the sheet. These points are interpolated and used to create a virtual mesh of the bed. During printing, if the bed is slightly warped, the sensor will still precisely follow the surface according to its measured mesh</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-300x170.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-600x341.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-768x436.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-800x455.jpg 800w" width="614" height="348" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK2/2.5/S, MK3/S/+</h3>
<p>These printers are equipped with a PINDA sensor, apart from the MK3S+, which is equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor.</p>
<p>The StallGuard for the Z-axis is active during the mesh bed leveling. In case the nozzle crashes into the bed before the PINDA sensor triggers, the calibration process is interrupted and the user is asked to check the nozzle for any kind of debris.</p>
<h4>Mesh bed leveling settings</h4>
<div class="note-callout">This feature is available starting from firmware 3.7.0.</div>
<p>The Mesh bed leveling settings can be found within <em>Settings - Mesh bed Leveling</em>, on the LCD menu. There you have the following options:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mesh (3x3 - 7x7)</li>
<li>Z-probe nr. (1 - 3 - 5)</li>
<li>Magnet comp. (ON / OFF)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Mesh:</strong> The default grid density is 3x3 (9 points). However, if you still experience uneven first layer adhesion, you can increase the density in Settings - Mesh bed leveling - Mesh to 7x7 (49 points).</p>
<p><strong>Z-probe nr.:</strong> Changing the Z-sensor nr. you change how many times will each point be measured. We suggest either 3 or 5 measurements per point since the final value is calculated as an average value. Changing these settings affects how long will the Mesh bed leveling procedure takes to complete.</p>
<p><strong>Magnet comp.:</strong> With 7x7 Mesh bed leveling, you can choose whether or not to use Magnets compensation. 3 of the 49 points are so close to magnets, that the reading can be off by as much as 80μm (microns). Magnet compensation ignores readings from these 3 points and calculates them from the surrounding points. <strong>We suggest leaving this function on.</strong></p>
<h4>Enforcing the Z-calibration</h4>
<p>If the mesh bed leveling is interrupted during the procedure, before a print, a message will appear on the screen stating "Enforcing the Z-calibration" and the printer will re-home and run through the procedure again. This can occur if there is debris on the nozzle pushing the bed down when probing, or if you touch and press the bed while it is probing. This will bring the deviance above a certain threshold and it will simply make another attempt to run the Mesh Bed Leveling. This is to avoid starting it from the menu again if the problem was simply an accident. If the problem remains, it will repeat this procedure three times before canceling the print.</p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091">P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MINI/+</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI is equipped with a M.I.N.D.A. sensor, while the Original Prusa MINI+ is equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor. The grid density is 4x4. </p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/m-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing-mini-mini_134021">M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor testing (MINI/MINI+)</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa XL and Original Prusa MK4</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL and the Original Prusa MK4 are equipped with a <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/preview/article/loadcell-xl"><strong>loadcell</strong></a>, to detect that the nozzle is close enough to the steel sheet for printing, and to avoid damage that would be caused by the nozzle digging into the steel sheet. </p>
<p>Before a print, the nozzle will check the distance to the print sheet in several places to create a virtual height map of the surface. The points are measured within the area of the chosen print. </p>


Mesh bed leveling

<h3>How do I get the kit or assembled printer owner discount?</h3>
<p>As stated on our website: <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com">Prusa3D</a>, if you purchase an assembled MK3S+ printer, we offer a 10% discount on your upcoming five subsequent purchases of an <strong>assembled printer of the same type</strong> and on 30 spools of selected filaments per year <strong>(not applicable to the</strong> <strong>MK4</strong>). If you choose to purchase your printer as a kit, we offer a 5% discount on 30 spools of selected filaments per year. In both cases, the discount is automatically activated in your account as soon as your first kit or printer is shipped.</p>
<h3>Can I have my printer's frame signed by Jo?</h3>
<p>Josef can sign the frame, but please know it can delay the expedition for over a month. He is very busy these days. If it's OK with you, you can ask for the signature in an email or via Live Chat.</p>
<h3>What are the printer dimensions?</h3>
<p>The dimensions are (W×L×H or X×Y×Z):</p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>Mini</strong> printer has 12.6 × 13 × 15 inch / 320 × 330 × 380 mm and 5 kg</li>
<li>Mini print area: 7×7×7 inch / 180 × 180 × 180 mm</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>SL1</strong> printer has 8.7 × 9.45 × 16.3 inch / 220 × 240 × 415 mm and 11 kg</li>
<li>SL1 print area: 4.7 × 2.6 × 5.9 inch / 120 × 68 × 150 mm</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>i3</strong> (MK2/3) printer itself has 16.5 × 16.5 × 15 inches / 420 × 420 × 380 mm and 7 kg</li>
<li>MK3/S print area: 9.8 × 8.2 × 8.2 inches / 250 × 210 × 210 mm</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that the mini and all i3 printers need some more space when in use. Especially in front of and behind them, as the heatbed is moving outside their footprint. Count with 19.7 × 21.5 × 21.5 inches / 500 × 550 × 450 mm (400 × 450 × 450 mm for the Mini), without the spool or MMU.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">If you are building an enclosure, you can add even more space in every direction, for better access and manipulation. For the MMU, add 150 mm / 6 in, in height, and think about <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/spool-placement_112035">where to put the 5 spools</a> (behind the printer or above).</div>
<h3>What is the printing precision/tolerance of the Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the precision tolerance of a well-assembled Original Prusa printer is 0,1 mm on the Z-axis and 0,3 mm on X and Y. It can be as little as 0,05 mm on all axes, after making additional calibrations such as the Extrusion multiplier calibration and Extruder linearity correction.</p>
<p>However, please note that the material is also relevant: it can shrink while cooling down, and low-quality filaments with uneven diameters will cause uneven extrusion. The optimization of the model for 3D printing (overhangs, etc.) is also important. Our printers are tested even for the 0.25 mm nozzle, which is more precise compared to the standard/stock nozzle with a 0.4 mm diameter. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/troubleshooting/dimension-errors">This article</a> studies the accuracy of FDM printing in more detail.</div>
<h3>What tools do I need when working with my Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>All necessary tools (pliers, screwdriver, hex keys, wrenches…) are included in the package. If you are wondering what else you could need, here is a list of some nice-to-have things:</p>
<ul>
<li>3.5'' side-cutter/flush-cutter pliers</li>
<li>White permanent marker</li>
<li>Compressed air</li>
<li>A big bottle of IPA 91% to clean the sheet</li>
<li>Acetone (only with the smooth sheet)</li>
</ul>
<h3>What is the life expectancy of the printer?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the average maintenance interval of our printers is around 800 print hours. When it needs to be serviced, most frequently, it’s the nozzle that needs to be changed, and then it can continue printing for many hundreds of hours more.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The ideal air temperature is from 20 - 30 °C (68 - 86 °F) and the ideal air humidity is 25 %.</div>
<h3>What is the power consumption of a PRUSA printer?</h3>
<p>The average power consumption that we have measured, at 26 °C (room temperature), is 80 W when printing generic PLA and 120 W when printing generic ABS.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>


FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1S) is a recommended accessory for the Original Prusa SL1S

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade

Original Prusa Enclosure assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK3.9 upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK4 upgrade

Original Prusa MK4 kit assembly

Original Prusa MMU3 Assembly

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Assembled)

Original Prusa SL1 to SL1S SPEED upgrade

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa MINI+ kit assembly

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Assembled)

The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa i3 to MMU2S upgrade

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Assembled)

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S to MK3S+ upgrade

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer is based on the MSLA printing process. Unlike Original Prusa i3 machines, this printer uses a high-resolution LCD panel and a UV LED to cure thin layers of resin to achieve an unprecedented level of detail.

Original Prusa SL1 kit assembly

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK3 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK1 to MK2 upgrade

Original Prusa XL - beta test

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm to 1.75 mm upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2/S to MMU1 upgrade

The Original Prusa MINI/MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S is a successor to Original Prusa i3 MK2 with small hardware tweaks for easier assembly and improved reliability.

Original Prusa i3 MK2S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S to MK3 upgrade

The Original Prusa i3 MK3 is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 MMU1 to MK2.5S MMU2S

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK2.5 to MMU2 v1.01

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 to MK2.5S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Printables Clubs

Printables

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

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Material guide

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In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

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Printer troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Printer simulator

Protective Shields

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

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Printer settings

Advanced features

Multi-material slicing

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Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

2. Printer unboxing

2. Base & Side frame assembly

3. CoreXY & Back assembly

3. Printer set up

4. Heatbed & Side panels assembly

5. Extruder & accessories assembly

5. First run

5. Tool-changer assembly

6. First run

4. First run

Manual changelog

6. Extruder & accessories assembly

Manual changelog XL (double head)

7. First run

2B. Printer Unboxing

2A. Printer Unboxing

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div><strong>PLA</strong> is one of the <strong>easiest materials to print.</strong> It is inexpensive and suitable (not only) for beginners. It’s usually used for printing detailed models, figures, and quick prototypes that don’t require high mechanical, chemical, or temperature resistance.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215 °C for the first layer, 210 °C for other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PLA</strong></a> (Polylactic acid) is a plant-based polyester. <strong>PLA does not require a heated bed</strong>, can be printed fast and with low temperatures (melting point is somewhere around 175 °C). With PLA you can print both small, detailed models and large objects filling almost the entire print volume. Unlike some other filaments, <strong>PLA is not prone to significant warping</strong>. It is good for quick prototyping and creation of nice, low-cost models: concepts, prototypes, simple toys, jewelry, statues, etc. It is not suitable for technical and outdoor use. It doesn’t resist high temperatures (it gets soft and deform at temperatures over 60 °C), degrades under UV light and its mechanical resistance is also inferior - it breaks by the layers or into shards upon impact. Layer adhesion is weaker compared to other materials. Sanding PLA is possible with sandpaper but needs water cooling (wet sanding).</p>
<p>Various sources claim that <strong>PLA is biologically degradable</strong>. The material is made from corn, sugar cane, or sugar beet and indeed can be decomposed, but only in specialized composting facilities where temperatures exceed 80 °C. It is definitely <strong>not a good idea</strong> to throw the <strong>PLA</strong> waste into your garden compost - the material will not disintegrate, plus you will contaminate the soil with plastic microparticles.</p>
<p>Although the <strong>PLA</strong> material itself is <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament material) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layers/grooves that can support bacterial growth. If you still want 3D printed dishes or food containers, we suggest applying a <strong>special layer that seals the surface</strong> (food-safe coating) and printing with a stainless steel nozzle.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low price</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Brittle and inflexible</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print, suitable for beginners</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Low UV and temperature resistance</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good detail and low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Difficult post-processing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Suitable for large models</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PLA is for printing concept models, prototypes, or low-wear toys.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Consider using a smooth PEI sheet</strong></p>
<p>If you print with PLA on our Original Prusa i3 printers, <strong>you can print on either a smooth, powder-coated TXT or powder-coated satin sheet.</strong> However, the smooth sheet works better for printing parts that have a small contact area with the print surface. With a powder-coated sheet, you should move your live-Z lower: Filament must fill in the sheet texture. However, you need to be careful and not move the nozzle too low or you will damage your sheet! <strong>Info for different printer users:</strong> PLA is printable not only on PEI surface, but also on glass, Kapton tape, or using a glue stick.</p>
<p><strong>Try to adjust retractions for better results</strong></p>
<p>PLA is sometimes prone to stringing and oozing - this can be reduced with proper retraction settings.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
<div class="c-message__message_blocks c-message__message_blocks--rich_text">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer" data-qa="block-kit-renderer">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper--first">
<div class="p-rich_text_block" dir="auto">
<div class="p-rich_text_section"><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">Chemical smoothing</a> of PLA is possible only in <strong>laboratory conditions</strong> - PLA can be dissolved in <strong>chloroform, hot benzene, or tetrahydrofuran.</strong> These are dangerous organic solvents that should be handled only by skilled lab technicians. Some of the PLA filaments can be also partially dissolved and <strong>glued with acetone</strong> (or you can simply glue it with superglue).</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Static models</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases, cups, and other tabletop models</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Audio volume knob and other electronic parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="399" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ABS</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for printing mechanically stressed parts</strong>, thanks to its high tenacity and temperature resistance. Its surface can be smoothed with <strong>acetone</strong>. The main disadvantage is significant warping and toxic fumes.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 255 °C&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 100 °C, you can set the bed temperature between 80 to 110 °C depending on the size of an object (larger object means higher temperature).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/asa-abs/"><strong>ABS</strong></a> (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is basically a <strong>predecessor of</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809"><strong>ASA</strong></a>. ABS is generally used for making inexpensive, sturdy mechanical parts (LEGO bricks, car parts, cellphone parts, etc.). The material is <strong>tenacious and temperature resistant</strong> - this makes it suitable for engineering parts, etc. Compared to ASA, there is slightly worse UV resistance and more significant warping and odor during printing. Note that ABS parts used outdoor turn yellowish and more brittle over time.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ABS printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High tenacity &amp; mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Requires printer enclosure</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy postprocessing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of ABS is for printing cheap technical parts requiring good heat and mechanical resistance or parts that need to be acetone smoothed.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated at least up to 100 °C, <strong>the printer should be inside an enclosure</strong> with a higher ambient temperature.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p></div>
<p>If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will keep the model slightly warmer and mitigate the warping. Printing inside an enclosure can lead to deformation of the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/">fan shroud</a> and other plastic parts. This can affect the printer's functionality. In case your plastic parts tend to deform, we recommend printing them from a more temperature resistant material, for example <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>.</p>
<p><strong>Shrinkage</strong></p>
<p>You should keep in mind that <strong>ABS-printed parts tend to shrink slightly</strong> after cooldown. We recommend printing a testing object and comparing it with a source model. The shrinkage factor of this material is somewhere around 1-2%.</p>
<p><strong>Removing prints</strong></p>
<p>When removing prints with a large surface area, it is very important to let the part and sheet cool properly. <strong>You may have to assist the process using a spatula.</strong> Be gentle when flexing the sheet and removing the print as the smooth PEI foil can tear.</p>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p>If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118">HIPS</a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ABS and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<p>ABS can be sanded wet and dry and smoothed with acetone fumes, just like ASA (see more in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>)</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 319px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lego bricks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed model</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div class="warning-callout"><strong>WARNING:</strong> Please note that Prusa Connect and PrusaLink are currently in a beta stage and the information below might change with the upcoming releases.</div>
<p>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink are two remote printing solutions developed in-house by Prusa. Its origin is in the management system used in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/guinness-world-records-1096-original-prusa-3d-printers-running-at-the-same-time_30677/">record-sized print farm located in Prague HQ.</a></p>
<ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Prusa Connect</strong> is a cloud service for remote printing available from anywhere.</li>
<li><strong>PrusaLink</strong>* is the client-side running locally on your printer, accessible from local network</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<p><em>*formerly known as Prusa Connect Local</em></p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>Prusa Connect (<a href="http://connect.prusa3d.com">connect.prusa3d.com</a>) allows you to control your individual printers or even manage a print farm from anywhere in the world.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/9f18d1552ef82ea7ef4960a43a86a17b.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained" alt="" width="900" height="607" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of Prusa Connect interface (cloud service)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>It is available for free to the owners of selected Original Prusa printers (see the list below). You get a free 1 GB of cloud storage for your G-codes and telemetric data. The full list of features and pricing for end customers or businesses will be announced later on.</p>
<p>Furthermore, Prusa Connect is able to monitor the use of each printer individually, providing valuable statistics of your production environment. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is PrusaLink?</h2>
<p>Much like Octoprint, this remote printer-management system runs locally on your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/12af6bd49830e088.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink and Prusa Connect explained" alt="" width="1451" height="800" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of PrusaLink interface (local network)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Its main goal is to provide communication between your printer and the Prusa Connect cloud. The secondary function is to provide a web interface, which can be used on your local (home) network only. Simply paste the printer's IP address into your web browser to access it. Using PrusaLink alone you can monitor your printer, upload G-codes, start or cancel a print. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>How to install and configure PrusaLink and Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>To use the Prusa Connect, you have to first set up the PrusaLink on your printer. The guides below will take you to step by step through the entire process.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 135.328125px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>FDM printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa <strong>MK3.9 / MK4 </strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK3/S/+</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">via RPi / RPi Zero (GPIO</a>/<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK2.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">via RPi (USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>XL</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl_419630">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl_420001">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>MINI / MINI +</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mini-_316781">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.333333%; height: 21.109375px;">TBA (Alpha version available)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>SLA printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1S SPEED</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3> </h3>
<h3>Next-gen Original Prusa printers</h3>
<p>Such as the<strong> MK4, MK3.9, XL, MINI/+, SL1/SL1S </strong> as well as the other upcoming models have the PrusaLink built-in. You can connect the printer either using Wi-Fi or a wired LAN (Ethernet) network.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4_413293">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MK4)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4_417586">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (MK4)</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl_419630">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (XL)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl_420001">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (XL)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mini-_316781">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">PrusaLink (SL1/S)</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S</h3>
<p>In this case, the PrusaLink name also refers to the required hardware solution of a Raspberry Pi (RPi). These printers don't have enough performance, therefore additional hardware is required. PrusaLink is a replacement for the discontinued <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusaprint-rpi-zero-and-octoprint_2180">PrusaPrint solution</a> (Octoprint and the RPi Zero W).</p>
<h4>Which Raspberry Pi should I get for my i3 (MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S)?</h4>
<p>For your MK3/S/+, you need to get a Raspberry Pi (RPi) to make the PrusaLink and Prusa Connect work. The supported RPi boards are listed below and if you are about to purchase a new one, it is highly recommended to seek the latest generation, as the older ones might be slower.</p>
<p>On MK3/S/+, you can attach the RPi Zero <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">directly onto the printer’s mainboard</a> or use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a>.<br />On MK2.5/S, you have to use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a> to the RPi. Then, the PrusaLink and PrusaConnect setup is fairly similar to the MK3/S/+.</p>
<p>Since the RPi doesn't have internal storage, you need to get a MicroSD card. Recommended SD card: Micro SD, SDHC standard, Class 10, 8GB or more. Preferably, choose a name-brand card known to work with RPi. Do backups regularly as even a name-brand card doesn’t guarantee you won’t lose your data. </p>
<p><strong>Supported boards (GPIO connection on Einsy Rambo)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Supported boards (USB connection)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi 4</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3+</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Unsupported boards</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero (without Wi-Fi) and older</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 2 and older</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>What not to do while RPi Zero W/2 is connected and the printer is powered up:<br /></strong><br />- Don't move any of the printer's axes by hand! Use the Move Axis menu only.<br />- Don't connect or disconnect the RPi.<br />- Don't insert or remove the microSD card inside the RPi.<br />- Don't touch the RPi board.<br />- For connecting or powering the RPi, don't use any other methods than the ones endorsed by Prusa.<br />- Only follow the guidance from the official documentation issued by Prusa Research.<br />- Prusa Research is not responsible for any damage done by or caused to third-party hardware.</div>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect setup (MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">PrusaLink/Prusa Connect with RPi 3/4 (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Other guides related to Prusa Connect and PrusaLink:</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/camera-setup-for-prusalink-prusa-connect_470943">Camera setup for PrusaLink / Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/sending-files-from-prusaslicer-to-prusalink_222961">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to PrusaLink</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sending-g-codes-to-printer-via-network-prusaconnect-prusalink-octoprint_196761">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to printer via network (Prusa Connect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-telegram-notifications-setup_529662">Prusa Connect - Telegram notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-discord-notifications-setup_536115">Prusa Connect - Discord notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-slack-notifications-setup_536172">Prusa Connect - Slack notifications setup</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/connecting-original-prusa-sl1-sl1s-to-prusaslicer_133977">Connecting SL1/S to PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">Internet Connection (SL1/S)</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-local-mini_133279">Prusa Connect Local (Old firmware connected via Ethernet, Obsolete guide) (MINI/+)</a> <br /> <br /> <br /> </li>
</ul>


Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained

<p>The printer can fully recover from a complete loss of power without the need for batteries or a UPS. A special sensor detects mains voltage, and in case of an interruption, it immediately shuts down the heatbed and extruder heating, leaving enough power in the capacitors to store the position and lift the print head away from the print. In case of a very short power failure, the printer will attempt to continue printing immediately without waiting for user interaction.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you want to test the power panic on MK3/S/+, check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/testing-safety-features-mk3-mk3s_2079">Testing safety features (MK3/MK3S)</a>.</div>
<div class="warning-callout">Keep in mind that power panic doesn't work if you use the on/off switch on the PSU</div>
<h3>Resuming the print</h3>
<p>When the power comes back, the printer will give you an option to continue the print. Keep in mind that during extended periods without power, the bed will cool down and the printed object can detach itself from the sheet plate. So, before resuming the process, check the following: </p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure that all objects are still attached to the steel sheet plate.</li>
<li>Follow the instructions on the LCD screen and resume the print.</li>
<li>Stay with the printer for about 10 minutes and make sure that the printing process continues without any problems.</li>
</ol>


Power Panic

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div>Polyvinyl butyral (PVB) is a material designed for easy smoothing with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Thanks to its transparency, it’s suitable for printing vases, lamp shades and other design objects. Print settings are similar to PLA, while its mechanical properties are slightly better.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215±10 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 75 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI or satin TXT sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pvb/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PVB</strong></a> (Polyvinyl butyral) has similar print settings to PLA, mechanical properties are comparable with CPE or low-tier PETG. Thanks to its translucency and IPA smoothing, it is an ideal choice when you want to make design objects, such as unconventional vases, jewellery, lamp shades and similar objects. The most ideal are models that require partially transparent surface. It’s recommended to tweak print settings, especially layer height, number of perimeters and infill density. We recommend printing with large nozzle diameter and spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>PVB is not suitable for printing mechanical parts. Its dimensional stability is great, tenacity and tensile strength is comparable to CPE (and low-tier PETG) but temperature resistance is similar to PLA.</p>
<p>Since it's an easy-to-print material (similar to PLA), PVB is a great choice for both experienced and new 3D printer users that would like to try something new.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 515px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Print settings similar to PLA</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Low layer to layer adhesion</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Filament transparency</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Hygroscopic filament (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Ideal for design parts, vases, lamp shades etc.</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Higher price</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ IPA chemical smoothing</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Great surface adhesion</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good tenacity (similar to CPE)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good tensile strength (similar to PETG)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Low warping (lower than PLA)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good for using 0.8mm nozzle</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PVB is for printing transparent models, such as jewellery, vases, lamp shades etc.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Do not use standard powder-coated TXT sheet</strong></p>
<p>PVB adheres well to a clean <strong>smooth PEI sheet</strong> or <strong>satin TXT sheet</strong>. Powder-coated TXT sheet might not provide a good adhesion.</p>
<p><strong>Use the spiral vase mode</strong></p>
<p>When printing transparent parts that require IPA smoothing, it’s good to print with a larger nozzle diameter (0.8mm) and with the spiral vase mode on. Printing with more perimeters will make layers visible even after IPA smoothing.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
<div class="c-message__message_blocks c-message__message_blocks--rich_text">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer" data-qa="block-kit-renderer">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper--first">
<div class="p-rich_text_block" dir="auto">
<div>The main advantage of PVB is the possibility of IPA smoothing. PVB models can be smoothed out with IPA fumes (smoothing box or professional smoothing station), washing in an IPA bath or direct application (brush or spray). Detailed smoothing description can be found in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/prusament-pvb-our-new-transparent-filament-made-for-easy-chemical-smoothing_43066/">dedicated article</a>, general smoothing instructions can be found in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">older article</a>.</div>
<div>
<p><strong>Keep the filament dry</strong></p>
<p><strong>PVB is very prone to absorbing moisture.</strong> Always put the spool back inside the bag with silica gel or <strong>let it dry</strong> for 8 hours at 45 °C before printing!</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="533"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lamp shades</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks and other design parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Miniatures</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>3D printing is an automated additive manufacturing-process, where a 3D printer creates a physical model based on digital data (a 3D object). All types of 3D printing are based on the same principle: creating objects by adding layers on top of (or below) existing layers. As of this moment, there is no 3D printing technology that would be completely universal and suitable for every purpose. This is why it's important to decide how and for what purpose you are going to use the printer.&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/types-of-printers-and-their-differences_112464#fdm-fff-printers">FFF printers</a>
<ul>
<li>Cartesian printers</li>
<li>CoreXY printers</li>
<li>Delta printers</li>
<li>Polar printers</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/types-of-printers-and-their-differences_112464#sla">SLA (Stereolithography)</a>
<ul>
<li>Masked Stereolithography (MSLA)</li>
<li>Stereolithography (SLA)</li>
<li>Direct/digital Light Processing (DLP)</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/types-of-printers-and-their-differences_112464#sls">SLS (Selective Laser Sintering)</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>FDM/FFF printers</h3>
<p><strong>FDM</strong> is an acronym for <strong>Fused Deposition Modeling</strong> (trademark by Stratasys) and <strong>FFF</strong> stands for <strong>Fused Filament Fabrication</strong> (open source). It encompasses all 3D printers, which heat/melt polymers and push it through a nozzle/extruder/print head onto a platform, where the model is built. The material for printing is provided as filament spools of 1.75 mm or occasionally 2.85 mm in diameter. The differences in the types of printers out there lay in how the extruder and print platform move to create the models.&nbsp;</p>
<h4>Cartesian printers</h4>
<div class="note-callout">The <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/51-original-prusa-i3-mk3s">Original Prusa i3 printers</a> and the <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/994-original-prusa-mini.html">Original Prusa MINI</a> are Cartesian printers.</div>
<p>Cartesian printers are characterized by at least three motors moving the parts of the printer along the axes of the Cartesian coordinate system: Y (back and forth), X (left and right), and Z (up and down). Most personal desktop printers are Cartesian printers due to them being very widespread and low cost</p>
<p>The model to be printed needs to be sliced into layers for the print. The Y- and X-axis will define the coordinates to be printed in one layer, and once the layer is ready the Z-axis will make the nozzle move one layer up, either by moving the print-bed or by moving the extruder. If overhangs are present, supports can be added below them.</p>
<p>The biggest advantage of the Cartesian printers is how common they are. There are a lot of tips, tricks, and solutions for issues online. The parts for the printer can also be found easily.</p>
<p>On the downside, Cartesian printers, if used for faster prints, will have a lower quality of printing due to the weight of the axes. Also, usually, the printer volume is a lot larger than the build volume due to the movement of all of the axes.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-300x165.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-600x330.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-768x423.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-800x440.png 800w" alt="" width="667" height="367"></p>
<h4>CoreXY printers</h4>
<p>Like the Cartesian printers, the CoreXY design also has the latitudinal and longitudinal coordinates determined by two motors and timing belts on the Y- and X-axis, and the print height determined by the Z-axis. The difference of the Core XY is that the X and Y movement is dependent on each other, done by a very specific belt design. The print surface, in this case, will be lifted to meet the extruder. Note that not only the movable print surface makes a CoreXY printer. The defining trait for the printer type is the design of the XY-belts and their movement.</p>
<p>Since the X and Y axes are a lot lighter, faster prints will not have the artifacts that may appear on fast prints on Cartesian printers. The design also allows for a lot larger part of its overall volume to be the build-volume, since there is no need for the print surface to move sideways.</p>
<p>The belts used in CoreXY printers are a lot longer, which makes all belt issues bigger than with the Cartesian printers. Their complicated path also makes these issues harder to repair. The frame needs to be very stable and perfectly square, or else the dimensional accuracy will be smaller.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Corexy.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Corexy-300x241.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Corexy-498x400.png 498w" alt="" width="322" height="258"></p>
<h4>Delta printers</h4>
<p>In Delta printers, the print surface stands still, and three motors work together to meet in the hotend and move it with the latitudinal and longitudinal coordinates, as well as the height of it. These motors control three posts, and these posts are connected to the extruder by arms that will move the hotend. The name of the printer style (delta = Δ) comes from the triangular shape which the arms holding the hotend form. This type of printer was designed to make faster prints.</p>
<p>The Delta printer extruder is very light. That combined with the 3 motors controlling it, makes this printer ideal for fast prints. This printer was an early adopter of the 32-bit system due to the complex calculation it takes to make the movements. Some of the attraction of the printer is also how cool it looks while it is working.&nbsp;</p>
<p>The Delta printers all have a relatively small and circular print surface. This limits the build-space significantly. The high speed of the printer makes the prints less precise. Also, it is uncommon to be used as a desktop printer, as any issues that the printer has can be extremely difficult to troubleshoot and fix, not only due to complex working and lack of information but the overall lack and cost of parts. The printer also needs to work with a Bowden extruder to make the extruder light, which can limit the number of filaments that can be used.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-300x194.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-600x388.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-768x496.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-800x517.png 800w" alt="" width="690" height="445"></p>
<h4>Polar printers</h4>
<p>This printer uses the Polar coordinate system, which has the points on a circular grid instead of the square as the Cartesian system. The printing platform not only moves sideways but it also rotates. This allows the extruder to only move up and down, and also for a large build area. This printer has a very light frame.</p>
<p>This technology is still being developed. That makes the printer very expensive, and it makes parts and technical support hard to find when you have problems.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/polar-printer.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/polar-printer-294x300.png 294w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/polar-printer-392x400.png 392w" alt="" width="401" height="409"></p>
<h3>SLA</h3>
<h4>(Stereolithography)</h4>
<p>The basic principle of <em>vat polymerization printing</em> is that a vat containing photosensitive liquid (resin) is cured layer by layer, by a heat source to make the object.</p>
<p>Printed objects are almost perfectly smooth, incredibly detailed and layers are nearly invisible to the human eye, with the minimal layer height going from 25 – 100 microns. The biggest disadvantage of this technology can be a smaller print surface area and also the toxicity of liquid resins. You should try to prevent resins from touching your skin and avoid inhaling resin vapors.</p>
<p>Printed objects are not fit for immediate use after the print job finishes since they tend to be a bit soft and sticky - which is caused by the leftover unsolidified resin on the surface of the object. It is recommended to wash the object in isopropyl alcohol and to cure it further using UV light.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">The <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/accessories/720-original-prusa-curing-and-washing-machine-cw1.html">Curing and Washing Machine (CW1)</a> is an optional accessory for our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/52-original-prusa-sl1">Original Prusa SL1</a>, which can wash, dry, and cure the print quickly and easily.</div>
<h4>Masked Stereolithography (MSLA)</h4>
<p>Each layer's shape is displayed as a semi-transparent mask on an LCD screen, and the exposure is performed employing a high-performance UV LED. UV light can pass only through white pixels on the display. Due to the fixed resolution of the LCD display, the printed objects have a fixed XY resolution. This method also cures a whole layer at a time, meaning it doesn’t matter how many objects there are on the printing platform.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/52-original-prusa-sl1">Original Prusa SL1 3D printer</a> uses this method.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-300x90.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-600x180.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-768x231.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-800x240.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h4>Stereolithography (SLA)</h4>
<p>Exposure is performed by a UV laser ray. The ray is controlled by two mirrors and it “draws” each layer gradually. The time required to solidify a single layer depends on the size of the area which needs to be solidified. Simply put, the more objects there are on the print platform, the longer the print takes.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-300x87.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-600x174.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-768x223.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-800x232.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h4>Direct/digital Light Processing (DLP)</h4>
<p>The whole layer is solidified at once thanks to a digital projector. The areas that receive exposure from the projector are solidified. The advantage of this method is obvious - each layer is solidified in the same amount of time, no matter how many objects there are on the print platform.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-300x91.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-600x183.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-768x234.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-800x244.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3>SLS</h3>
<p><strong>Selective Laser Sintering</strong></p>
<p>Another type of 3D printing technology is SLS and DMLS, which use a process called <em>sintering</em>. Essentially, every time a new layer is printed, a cylinder spreads a thin layer of fine powder across the platform, which is then sintered with a laser into the required shape. When the print is finished, the whole object is covered with the printing powder. Due to how this method works, the printed objects must have holes, through which the excessive powder is poured out. Unsintered material can be reused for the next prints, which means that very little material is wasted. Another advantage is the fact that the layers are nearly invisible. These printers are not massively widespread among the common public. Due to their main use in various industries, the prices are noticeably higher - the cheapest machines start at around 6000 USD.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SLS-printers-650x432-min.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SLS-printers-650x432-min-300x199.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SLS-printers-650x432-min-600x400.jpg 600w" alt="" width="459" height="306"></p>
<p>There are other types of technology and designs out there, like "Jetting" or concrete and metal printers, using various methods. Since those are mostly reserved for industrial applications due to price and patents, they are not included here.&nbsp;</p>


Types of printers and their differences

<p>On the Original Prusa MK4 and XL, the firmware is flashed by using a USB flash drive.</p>
<ol>
<li>Download the latest firmware for your printer and extract it (zip file) on your computer
<ul>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk4">Original Prusa MK4</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/xl">Original Prusa XL</a></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Make sure the USB flash drive doesn't contain any previous firmware (.bbf file)</li>
<li>Copy the new .bbf file to the root directory of a USB flash drive (Not within a folder).</li>
<li>Insert the USB flash drive and push the reset button<strong>.</strong> The bootloader will automatically compare the installed version with the one on the drive and, if newer, will automatically offer you to flash it.</li>
<li>Confirm the update by selecting the "FLASH" button and pressing the knob. </li>
</ol>
<p> </p>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/035427dd374ce9f494d89568ff3e72ac.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Flashing firmware (MK4)" alt="" width="700" height="276" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Alternative method - older firmware release (firmware downgrade)</h3>
<p>It is not possible to flash to the same, or an older version of the firmware release, using the method above. To flash an older firmware the procedure is as follows:</p>
<ol>
<li>Push the reset button, immediately followed by clicking the selector knob.</li>
<li>On the new screen, confirm the update by selecting the "FLASH" button and pressing the knob. </li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">If it repeatedly only boots the printer and gives you the home screen try to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-cards-and-usb-drives_112291">format your USB flash-drive</a> or try a different one. <strong>Even if the flash drive works with G-Codes and printing, it may not work for flashing the firmware.</strong></div>


How to update firmware (MK4/XL)

<p>Pictures and videos are an important part of troubleshooting. When one of our agents is trying to help you with an issue, they often rely on pictures and videos to get a better understanding of the issue at hand. <strong>Photo and video documentation is also a part of our warranty terms.</strong></p>
<p>Therefore, we want to go through some advice and guidelines regarding shooting and sharing photo and video content.</p>
<div class="note-callout">There are security concerns regarding the sharing of files online. We will not download videos compressed into a Zip format, nor download files to our hard drive.</div>
<h3>Guidelines when shooting photos and video</h3>
<h4>The specific machine under troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Example pictures and screenshots from, for instance, our assembly manual, is of no assistance. We are helping you with your machine, so we need to see <strong>your specific machine.</strong> It is not helpful to see other printers, as there are always nuances to your specific case. Example: "Pictures in the third post of this forum thread is exactly like my issue" is unfortunately not sufficient.</p>
<h4>Well lit and in focus</h4>
<p>Make sure the object is well-lit and in focus before sending pictures or videos. On a small handheld screen it is not always obvious when important detail is missing, so zoom in to make sure, Also, use your camera's flash unless it burns out the picture.</p>
<h4>Super Close-up</h4>
<p>We often require general shots of “extruder” or ”frame” and with the resolution now available in modern handhelds there is rarely a need to go in very close, especially if it is well lit. Mostly it will end with you having to take and send more pictures.</p>
<h4>Camera orientation</h4>
<p>It is a common oversight to shoot video holding the phone in portrait orientation. The image chip in your phone’s camera always has its resolution in the same orientation as its screen, so when shooting video in this manner <strong>we lose about two-thirds of the resolution</strong> (illustration below) when it is displayed on a normal 'landscape' monitor. This removes detail important for the support agent. <strong>Please shoot video in Landscape orientation.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution-800x450.jpg 800w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>How to share</h3>
<h4>Cloud of your choice</h4>
<p>Both through email and Live Chat there is a 10 Mb data cap. Therefore, we often rely on your cloud services like Dropbox, Imgur, and Youtube to receive the material.</p>
<h4>Google Drive and Youtube</h4>
<p>Many of us use Gmail. With that, you have both access to Google Drive and Youtube. There are many guides out there on using Youtube. We found this clear and to-the-point guide from Wix.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.wix.com/blog/2019/02/how-to-upload-video-youtube-guide/">https://www.wix.com/blog/2019/02/how-to-upload-video-youtube-guide/</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Regarding Google Drive, right-click the file, after uploading, and select "Get shareable link". In the dialog box that will open, make sure the option "Anyone with the link" is selected.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 18.4px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 18.4px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive-300x220.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive-547x400.png 547w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive-768x562.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive-800x586.png 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive.png 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="293"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 18.4px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anyone-with-the-link.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anyone-with-the-link-600x199.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anyone-with-the-link-300x100.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anyone-with-the-link.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="133"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Imgur</h4>
<p>Imgur is a site where you can upload photos without having an account. Per email and chat pictures are not really a problem, due to their small size, but it can be handy if you have a whole series of pictures. It also has good support for uploading directly from handhelds. wikiHow made a good guide on how to use this.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.wikihow.com/Upload-Images-to-Imgur">https://www.wikihow.com/Upload-Images-to-Imgur</a></li>
</ul>


Photo and video documentation

<p>After making an order, it is possible to check the details of the order in your e-shop account.</p>
<h3>How to find the order details</h3>
<p>If you have an account, you can open the order details by clicking on your name on the top-right of the e-shop. There you will find info and invoices for your orders, as well as the state of the order. In the State row, you will see the Payment status (top blue square) and Order status (bottom purple square).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/9c5666a004b1de06_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/9c5666a004b1de06_painted-600x54.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/9c5666a004b1de06_painted-800x73.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/9c5666a004b1de06_painted-300x27.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/9c5666a004b1de06_painted-768x70.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/9c5666a004b1de06_painted-1536x139.jpeg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/9c5666a004b1de06_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="72"></p>
<p>By clicking on Edit order, you will be taken to a new page with more information about your order. There, it is possible to see the order status, as well as the shipping estimate, delivery address, billing address, and the carrier.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Eshop-order-status.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Eshop-order-status-600x264.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Eshop-order-status-800x352.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Eshop-order-status-300x132.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Eshop-order-status-768x338.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Eshop-order-status.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="352"></p>
<h3>Checking the status without an account</h3>
<p>In case you did not create an account, you can create an account later with the same email you have used to make the order. The order will automatically appear in your account.</p>
<p>If you do not wish to make an account, you can check the status of your order <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/guest-tracking">here</a>.</p>
<h3>Status</h3>
<h4>New</h4>
<p>A default status. It’s assigned to a new order. This order may be paid or not, check the payment status.</p>
<h4>In progress</h4>
<p>The order is being packed. At this point, it is not possible to edit it either from a customer’s side or from our side.</p>
<h4>Canceled</h4>
<p>The order is canceled.</p>
<h4>Ready to pickup</h4>
<p>The order is ready to be picked up by the carrier. This status can be applied solely to orders with cash on delivery payments.</p>
<h4>Shipped</h4>
<p>The order has been shipped.</p>


Order status

<div>Primarily, we accept payments in US Dollar (USD), Euro (EUR), Pound (GBP), Czech koruna (CZK), and Złoty (PLN).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Some payment options may not be available if you have selected a currency not related to the region of the shipping address!</strong> I.e. For an EU shipping address, choose Euro. For a US shipping address select USD.</div>
</div>
<div>
<p><strong>Our online store supports several different payment options:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Credit card</li>
<li>Invoice payment</li>
<li>PayPal (only in some regions)</li>
<li>Cash payment (Personal pickup only at our Prague HQ)</li>
<li>Trustly (only in some regions)</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">We do not accept checks as a payment method.</div>
</div>
<h3>Credit card</h3>
<p>Paying with your credit card is easy and fast. After selecting <strong>Credit/Debit card</strong> in the payment options and confirming the order, <strong>you will be redirected</strong> to a secure payment portal. Enter your credit card details and finalize the payment there. A credit card can <em>only</em> be used as the payment method when placing an order through our e-shop and its secure payment portal.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">
<p><strong>Before paying by card</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Check with your bank that you are allowed to send overseas payments.</li>
<li>Make sure that you did not exceed your daily (or weekly) spending limit.</li>
<li>Make sure your card can make internet payments.</li>
<li>If your card is new, make sure that you have activated it.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<p>Keep in mind that, in this case, you are charged directly <strong>at the time of making the order</strong>. Once the payment is processed successfully, you will receive an e-mail confirmation within a few minutes.</p>
<h3>Invoice payment</h3>
<div>Invoice payment (or wire transfer) is mainly used for business orders, but it <strong>can be used by anyone</strong> who would like to pay the order later, during the lead time. Once the order is placed, you will receive an e-mail with an invoice and instructions on how to finalize the payment.</div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Keep in mind that we can not ship your order before we have received payment.</strong> It can take up to 5 business days before the wire transfer payment is received and confirmed.</div>
<h3>PayPal</h3>
<p>Paying with PayPal is easy and fast, but you need to have an active PayPal account. After placing your order, you will be redirected to the PayPal payment gateway. Then, log in to your PayPal account and finalize the payment.</p>
<p>Keep in mind that, in this case, you are charged directly <strong>at the time of making the order</strong>. Once the payment is processed successfully, you will receive an e-mail confirmation within a few minutes.</p>
<div class="note-callout">This option is not available by default for customers from Europe.</div>
<h3>Trustly</h3>
<p>Trustly is a bank-to-bank payment method available in some countries. It is an alternative to Wire transfer where the transaction is immediate. There is no need for registration or cards. Using your banking credentials, you pay directly through our secure payment portal.</p>
<p>The countries currently supported are <strong>Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Lithuania, United Kingdom, Estonia, Spain, Ireland, and Latvia</strong>.</p>
<p>Even though the payment method is available in the United Kingdom, it is only available in <strong>Euros</strong>, and not <strong>British Pounds</strong>. Please check with your bank for any potential conversion fees and rates.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Cash payment</h3>
<p style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">Cash payment is possible in case you choose the Cash on delivery option.</p>
<p style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">To make this option available, choose the "Czech Republic" in the <strong>Country</strong> list when inserting your shipping address, and select <strong>DPD</strong> as the carrier.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Please note that even if you have the order shipped within the Czech Republic, your order will not be ready any sooner. Our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/shipping-information_2297">lead times</a> still apply.</strong></div>
<div class="tip-callout">Cash payments are accepted <strong>only in CZK</strong> currency.</div>
<h3>Vouchers</h3>
<p>You can redeem your discount voucher <strong>during the checkout</strong> phase, under the shipping options or the payment options. The voucher is usually valid exclusively for your account, so make sure you are <strong>logged in</strong> before using it. Click on the <strong>Enter discount code</strong>, and the field to paste the voucher into will appear.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 18.4px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 18.4px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/7ae3286ac3d2dacf_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/7ae3286ac3d2dacf_painted-600x385.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/7ae3286ac3d2dacf_painted-800x513.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/7ae3286ac3d2dacf_painted-300x192.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/7ae3286ac3d2dacf_painted-768x492.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/7ae3286ac3d2dacf_painted-1536x985.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/7ae3286ac3d2dacf_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="300" height="192"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 18.4px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/voucher-field.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/voucher-field-300x89.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/voucher-field.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="308" height="91"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Then double-check the order details and hit the "<strong>I confirm my order</strong>" button.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Vouchers cannot be applied to orders that are already placed in the system.</div>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">If you have any issues with the payment, check our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/error-when-placing-an-order_142645">Error when placing an order</a> guide.</div>
</div>


Payment options

<p>If your printer has an issue you cannot solve by troubleshooting remotely with our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a>, it is possible to send the printer to be repaired by one of our technicians.</p>
<h3>Repair within warranty</h3>
<p>If you have a <strong>pre-assembled</strong> printer, the cost of sending the printer for repair is covered by your warranty.</p>
<p>If you have a <strong>kit</strong> version of the printer, only the individual parts are covered by the warranty, not the repair. If you wish to send the printer for repair, the shipping and service will be charged even within the warranty.</p>
<p><strong>You can read more about the warranty claims here: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/warranty_2288">Warranty</a>.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Note that if a user error is found during the warranty repair, the parts and return shipping will be charged!</div>
<h3>Repair out of warranty</h3>
<p>If your printer was purchased as a kit or you have an assembled printer out of warranty, you may wish for a repair at our facility. Start by contacting our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a> with details of the issue.</p>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<p>When a repair service is requested, an email will be sent within a few days with instructions for the return process. A <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/others/PrusaServiceList_EN.pdf">Service list</a> must be filled by the user of the printer with the report of the issue.</p>
<p>When the printer is received it will be evaluated, and an initial diagnostic will be made on the hardware, function of the printer, and the Service list. The cost of repair will be estimated based on what was found in the initial evaluation.</p>
<h3>Price</h3>
<div class="note-callout">Not applicable to pre-assembled printers within warranty.</div>
<p><strong>You will not be charged anything else on top of the estimated cost of the repair.</strong> This estimate may only change with an additional request from your side (modification/upgrade of the printer) and must be approved by both the customer and the service technician.</p>
<p>The total cost of the repair will be:<br />
Shipping both ways + Technician's time + Parts to be changed.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>The shipping cost is based on your address.</strong> If you want to know the price, go to our e-shop and add the pre-assembled version of your printer to the cart along with your address. This will show the shipping one way, and the total shipping to be paid will be twice that amount. If you want us to use a specific carrier or use your own carrier, this must be specified when requesting the repair. When using your own carrier, any damage during shipping will be your responsibility.</li>
<li><strong>The technician's time is charged by the hour.</strong> Once the scope of the repair is known, the technician will provide you with a time estimate including the expected price. This value can be charged in any of the currencies available the <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">e-shop</a> (CZK, USD, EUR, PLN, and GBP).</li>
<li><strong>The parts have our retail prices</strong> and will be listed in the price estimate.</li>
</ul>
<p>A "reserve amount" will be added to the price estimate. This amount is calculated based on the total repair cost. It will cover the technician's time and parts in case of undisclosed issues or in case the printer has any third-party modifications. If nothing is found, this value is not added to the final amount.</p>
<p><strong>The repair will only commence after the costs are accepted.</strong> In case you do not accept the repair costs, the printer will be shipped back as-is. In this case, the shipping fees of the return will be charged. After payment, the printer is shipped back without being repaired.</p>
<h3>Repair</h3>
<p>The printer will be repaired by our service team, and a sequence of prints will be made to test all the printer features. This includes any specific G-codes that you have issues with (if these are added to the SD card and <strong>mentioned in the service list</strong>), plus test prints of the printer's main features.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If you want defect/replaced parts shipped back to you with the repaired printer, be sure to specify this on the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/others/PrusaServiceList_EN.pdf">Service list</a>. However, this can impact the shipping cost.</div>
<p>After the printer is received, <strong>the repair can take up to 30 days (according to EU law)</strong>. However, this is only the worst-case scenario and we're usually able to process the standard repair requests in a shorter time. You can request a time estimate after the initial evaluation.</p>
<p>After the repair, the payment is made. The printer will be shipped back to you, along with the test prints and a final repair protocol detailing what was repaired or changed<em>.</em></p>
<h3>Repair warranty</h3>
<p><strong>The specific part of the printer that is repaired has three months warranty</strong> (repair contract). If the reported issue(s) of the repaired printer is still present upon return, or there are flaws due to poor workmanship or negligence by our service technicians, the printer can be returned for service again free of charge <strong>within these three months.</strong></p>
<p>However, the<strong>&nbsp;Repair Contract warranty is unrelated to the printer's general warranty.</strong> Furthermore, if another/new issue appears, unrelated to the repaired part, it is not covered under this three-month repair warranty. A new estimated cost of the repair will have to be prepared and confirmed.</p>


Factory repair

<p>The Original Prusa XL and the Original Prusa MK4 are equipped with a <strong>loadcell</strong>. This component incorporated in the hotend heatsink detects if the nozzle is close enough to the steel sheet for printing.</p>
<p>The only adjustment needed for the <strong>loadcell </strong>is during the Selftest. After that, the first layer calibration is always done automatically during the <strong>mesh bed leveling</strong>. This avoids any damage that would be caused by the nozzle digging into the steel sheet.</p>
<p>The manual first layer calibration (Live Z adjust) and the steel sheet profiles are not necessary with the <strong>loadcell</strong>, as the values are checked automatically before each print.</p>
<h3>Testing the loadcell</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not manipulate or touch the printer unless the instructions on the printer screen prompt you to do so.</div>
<p>During the Selftest, the loadcell will be tested: the printer will show the instructions for testing it.</p>
<p>Alternatively, the loadcell testing can be initiated in <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Calibration &amp; Tests -&gt; Loadcell Test </em>on the <strong>XL</strong>, or in <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Diagnostics -&gt;Test Loadcell </em>on the <strong>MK4</strong>.</p>
<p>During the test, you will be asked to tap the nozzle at a specific time, and a progress bar on top of the screen will be filled. If the bar is not filled or the printer shows any errors, please contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a>.</p>


Loadcell (XL, MK4)

<p>Selected Original Prusa printers are equipped with status LEDs located on the lower edge of the LCD screen. Together there are three physical RGB LEDs. The system will change their color and intensity based on the current scenario. The purpose of this system is to provide helpful visual information to the user.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">To ensure the LEDs are visible even from a longer distance. Make sure there is a solid, reflective surface under the front edge of the LCD screen.</div>
<p> </p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/a0ba9c14ecc0e9e72b88673c7bd5c4b7.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Status LED explained" alt="" width="800" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Compatible printers:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4</li>
<li>Original Prusa XL</li>
</ul>
<h3>There are several pre-defined scenarios for the LEDs:</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Successful boot</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> The boot of the system was assessed as successful.</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs will pulse shortly with a <strong>green color.</strong></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Warning</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> The printer requires user interaction and then can continue to print (e.g. planned filament change, filament runout, pause in G-code, MMU requires attention, etc.)</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs will pulse in <strong>yellow color</strong>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Critical error</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> There is a serious error, and the print job cannot continue. The printer must be fixed in order to work correctly (e.g. Thermal runaway, Preheat error, Max/Min temp, ...)</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs will pulse in <strong>red color</strong>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>The print job is in progress</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> The printer is currently in the progress of printing the selected G-code.</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs are switched to <strong>blue color</strong>. </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>The print job is done</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> The current print job has finished successfully, the print head is parked and the printer is awaiting the user, to collect the printed object. Please note that the <strong>sheet might be still hot! </strong>Avoid harming yourself<strong> </strong>and also give the surface a few moments to cool down to allow easier detachment of the print.</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs are switched to <strong>green color</strong>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h3>Use-defined LED statuses</h3>
<p>LEDs can be controlled using a G-code M150, you can learn more about it at <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M150.html">Marlin FW site</a>.</p>


Status LED explained (MK4/XL)

<p>A 'cold pull' is a technique that allows you to clean your printer’s nozzle and hotend from any material that may be stuck or burnt inside. You can also use it to clean your hotend during your usual maintenance routine.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">If you are using Nozzle X <strong>do not</strong> use the cold-pull method, but only use cleaning filament.</div>
<p>The cold pull should be done if your nozzle is only partially clogged, and some filament is still being extruded. If the nozzle is completely clogged, please check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-hotend-mk4_411823">clogged hotend article for MK4</a>, or the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-hotend-xl_401294">clogged hotend article for XL</a>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Our testing has found that PLA works best for a cold pull, as other filaments do not retain the tip as PLA does and they will either tear or melt too much. However, there are filaments specifically made for cleaning hotends.</div>
<h3>Preliminary steps for XL</h3>
<p>On the Original Prusa XL, proceed with these two steps before the cold pull procedure.</p>
<ol>
<li>Insert a piece of filament into the side PTFE tube, just enough to trigger the side filament sensor. </li>
<li>Unscrew the Bowden PTFE tube above the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Cold pull procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Load a piece of PLA filament in the extruder, inserting it from above the extruder. </li>
<li>Open the Idler Swivel.<br />
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 314px; border-style: hidden;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 296px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_Extruder_Open2.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_Extruder_Open.jpg" alt="" width="399" height="299" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa XL</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</li>
<li>Go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle Temperature</em> and set the temperature to 270 °C.</li>
<li>Once it has reached 270 °C push the PLA filament in until it starts pouring out of the nozzle.</li>
<li>Stop heating by pressing Cooldown in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Cooldown</em>, or by pressing the reset button. </li>
<li>Continue manually pushing the filament down until the temperature is too low for it to melt and come out (around 170 °C for PLA). The nozzle has to be filled for the cold pull to be successful.</li>
<li>Pick away any extruded material from the nozzle so there is nothing obstructing the pull later on.</li>
<li>Wait for the temperature to reach 100 °C. As soon as it reaches 100 °C, grab the filament with pliers and pull it slowly but steadily out of the extruder. Make sure to pull straight upwards, not sideways, or the filament can break inside. Hold the extruder with your other hand.</li>
<li>Don't stop until the filament is completely pulled out from the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Results</h3>
<p>On the tip of the filament that has been pulled out, you may see remnants of the previous material(s) you have been using or some burnt dirt that has settled in the nozzle (left picture). You might want to repeat this procedure several times until the filament comes out clean.</p>
<p>The right picture shows what a clean cold-pulled filament should look like. It is important to have the imprint of the nozzle on it, this way you are sure the nozzle was filled and nothing was left inside. Also, the color is not mixed with the one you have been using previously or has dark marks on it.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-300x214.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-561x400.jpg 561w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-768x548.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-800x571.jpg 800w" alt="dirty cold pull" width="400" height="286" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-300x203.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-591x400.jpg 591w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-768x520.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-800x542.jpg 800w" alt="clean cold pull" width="693" height="469" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>After the procedure, close the Idler and the Idler Swivel. </p>


Cold pull (MK4, XL)

<p>On the Original Prusa XL, adjusting the belt to the optimal tension is crucial to achieving good quality on the prints. A loose belt can cause <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/layer-shifting_2020">Layer shifting</a>, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ghosting_1801">Ghosting</a>, or other print abnormalities, like getting an irregular shape instead of a perfect circle. An over-tightened belt can cause an irregular movement in the X and Y axes.</p>
<p>The Original Prusa XL geometry is <strong>CoreXY</strong>: it has two belts for the X-axis. </p>
<h3>Belt tuner</h3>
<p>We have our own <a href="https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/">belt tuner</a>. The application determines the belt tension by measuring the frequency of the vibration generated by strumming it. Follow the instructions in the video below to adjust the belt. </p>
<div class="note-callout">Once you tighten the belt on both sides, ensure that the two sides are perfectly aligned. If needed, follow the steps in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-xl_401793#Alignment">alignment</a> paragraph to fully align the two sides.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lqC6rVrFLuY" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<h3>Homing tower</h3>
<p>We prepared a specific homing tower <a href="https://files.printables.com/media/prints/542670/gcodes/4368495_abe96a25-d4d5-4b73-81b1-f82528b5010f/homing-tower_xl_06n_015mm_pla_xl_4h39m.gcode">GCode, intended for a 0.6mm nozzle and PLA</a>, to visualize possible issues with the belt tension and have the possibility to correct them on the spot. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/03ee25ae808b03bc2a92e9ba69b4d1d9_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Adjusting belt tension - REVIEW (XL) [No belt tensioner, add GCode homing tower]" alt="" width="500" height="373" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>In case the <span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>belt is loose</strong></span>, the tower will have an inconsistent finish, with scattered material on the walls instead of a smooth finish. Without interrupting the print, tighten the screws on both Y-axis rails by half turn. </p>
<p>If the print finish does not fully improve, repeat the procedure once again, until the homing tower has a <strong><span style="color: #3598db;">smooth, consistent finish</span></strong>. </p>
<p>An over-tightened belt can result in <span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>layer shifting</strong></span>.</p>
<p>Once the tower has a smooth finish, loosen the same screws very slightly, observe if this further improves the tower. Repeat the procedure until the tower has an ideal finish. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_belt02.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Alignment</h3>
<p>It is crucial to have perfect alignment between the right and left sides.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Tightening the right Y-axis rail reduces the space between the CoreXY Front Left and the X-axis on the right side but creates space on the left side, and vice versa. </div>
<p>Move the X-axis all the way to the front of the printer, and move the X-carriage with the extruder all the way to the left.</p>
<p>Test the alignment by squeezing the CoreXY Front Left and the X-axis on either side: there should be no play between the parts. If there is play, tighten the screw on the same side slightly, move the X-axis assembly back and all the way to the front, and test the alignment again on both sides.</p>
<p>Repeat the same procedure until both sides are perfectly aligned and without any play. Once at this stage, check the belt tension, both on the upper and on the lower belt, by attaching the belt meter to either belt: the pointer has to be in the same position for both.</p>
<p>In case there is a difference on the test, slightly tighten the screw on the side:</p>
<ul>
<li>tighten the right side to tension the upper belt</li>
<li>tighten the left side to tension the lower belt</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_belt01.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Adjusting belt tension (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>


Adjusting belt tension (XL)


<ul>
<li>Initial release for Original Prusa XL</li>
</ul>


1.00

4.5.3


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>New Home screen </li>



<li>Homing improvements</li>



<li>Changes to Live Adjust Z</li>



<li>Footer Items settings improved&nbsp;</li>



<li>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink improvements</li>



<li>Improvements to the Factory Reset feature&nbsp;</li>



<li>Calibrations and Tests on improvements</li>



<li>Tool changer usage statistics</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


4.6.1


<p>Updated with information for semi-assembled XL</p>


1.02


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>Multi-tool support</li>



<li>Other improvements</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


4.7.0


<ul>
<li>Single tool G-code on a multi tool printer</li>



<li>Known Bugs</li>
</ul>


4.7.1


<ul>
<li>Custom nozzle diameter</li>



<li>Temperature menu reordered</li>
</ul>


4.7.2


<ul>
<li>Updated with instructions for the Original Prusa PDU</li>
</ul>


1.03


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa XL

Downloads

Firmware 4.7.2

Drivers & Apps 2.6.1

Handbook 1.03

How to

Assembly Instructions

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Service Manuals

How to install the Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter (XL)

How to replace the Prusa Nozzle (XL)

Packing printer for transport - Original Packing Material (XL)

Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (XL)

Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (XL)

How to replace the Hotend assembly (XL)

Camera setup for PrusaLink / Prusa Connect

How to replace the Prusa Nozzle (XL multi-tool)

How to replace a print fan (XL single tool)

How to fix Modular bed error (HW solution)

Prusa Connect - Telegram notifications setup

Prusa Connect - Discord notifications setup

Prusa Connect - Slack notifications setup

How to change trapezoid nuts (XL)

How to clean the side filament sensor (XL)

How to replace a Nextruder (XL)

Categories

Calibration (6)

About your printer (34)

Using the printer (50)

Troubleshooting (260)

PrusaSlicer (2)

Articles