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                  1. Support
                  2. Original Prusa i3 MK3S+
                  3. Printer maintenance
                  4. Print surface preparation
                   

                  Contents

                  • Choosing the right print sheet
                  • Cleaning the print surface
                  • Using the most common separation layers
                  • Removing the print

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                  Print surface preparation

                  Relevant for

                  MK4 family
                  MK3 family
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                  OLD PRODUCTS
                  6 comments
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                  Before you start printing, you should know that various materials have different adhesions on various surfaces. It is crucial to pick the right steel sheet for your printer and prepare its surface properly. This article is about the most common types of print surfaces and how to prepare them for printing.

                  To kick it off with a quick (and most common) example: PETG filament has great adhesion to a clean, degreased, smooth PEI sheet, making it extremely hard to remove. Removing the print often leads to peeling off the PEI surface and irreversible damage to the sheet. This is why we recommend using another type of steel sheet or adding PVA glue as a separation layer on the print surface.

                  Steel sheet damaged by a PETG print

                  Choosing the right print sheet

                  We offer 4 types of spring steel sheets, each has a different surface finish that leaves not only a specific texture on your print but also supports a variety of materials that can be printed on it.

                  Here’s a guidepost that provides the most information about the maintenance and properties of our three most common print sheets. Plus, here’s an article about our special PA Nylon steel sheet.
                  Smooth sheetTextured sheetSatin sheet

                  The best way to identify whether your sheet is suitable for the chosen material is by checking our Material table. If there’s a green check mark matching the selected sheet and material, you can simply degrease the print surface and you’re good to go. If there’s an exclamation mark, a separation layer of some sort is needed (see below). Failing to use the separation layer may lead to damaging your sheet!

                  Cleaning the print surface

                  This is an easy, yet crucial step you should perform before (almost) every print. We already described this in the 3D printing handbook and several other places but here’s a quick reminder:

                  Grease stains (fingerprints, etc.) often cause poor surface adhesion and, eventually, a print failure. To degrease the print sheet, spray some isopropyl alcohol (90% or stronger) or denatured ethyl alcohol on the cold print surface and wipe it with an unscented paper towel. Do not use any products for skin care: they usually contain oils that ruin adhesion!

                  There are some more specific rules for long-term sheet maintenance and you should definitely learn these but it reaches beyond this article’s purpose. Don’t forget to go through the steel sheet guidepost. Keep in mind that the special PA Nylon sheet has very different and highly specific rules for maintenance.

                  Alright, the print surface is clean, now the final checklist (see the material table):

                  1. Green check mark: Good to go!
                  2. Yellow exclamation mark: Use a separation layer (see below).
                  3. Red X: Do not print! The chosen material may damage your print sheet!

                  Using the most common separation layers

                  You may find various separation (or adhesive) layer materials on the market, some of those even in our e-shop. Every material has its benefits, but describing every single one of them is beyond the scope of this article. If you check our material table, you’ll find out that it all comes down to two most common separation layers: PVA glue stick and PP tape.

                  PVA (paper) glue is usually sold in the form of sticks that make the application easier. Usually, only a thin layer of glue is enough. Spreading a thick layer may leave various unsightly traces, bumps, and artifacts that will be imprinted onto your 3D print’s surface. However, if you want to print a mechanical part, where good looks are not as important as functionality and reliability, making the layer slightly thicker won’t hurt. Also, the PVA glue melts at relatively low temperatures, so we suggest applying it on a cold surface to avoid making an extra thick layer.

                  Tip: If you use the smooth print sheet, use the grid to guess the print size and position, then spread the glue only under the 3D print. You don’t need to spread the glue all over the whole sheet.

                  PVA glue separation layer, 3D printed PETG parts, and marks left after removing the print. Note that these marks are normal as they are only on a PVA glue layer and not on the print sheet surface. These marks disappear with the glue after washing.

                  Finally, the PP tape. You will most likely not use it, since it’s recommended only for printing PP (Polypropylene), which is quite rare material to print. However, you may decide to use some other tape - kapton tape, for example. For the best adhesion, it is recommended to use in combination with a smooth sheet, no matter which tape you are going to choose. The tape may leave some glue residuals after removing it from the print sheet surface. Usually, these can be washed with IPA or with water and dishwasher soap, but again, double-check the steel sheet maintenance articles before washing them.

                  If you decide to use other separation materials or adhesives, don’t forget to check compatibility with our print sheets. For example, ABS juice should not be used in combination with textured or satin sheets.

                  Removing the print

                  One last thing: always remove the prints by removing and bending the sheet only after they are cooled down. The print will go off easily without the necessity of using various spatulas, knives, or anything else.

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                  Topics

                  • Using the printer
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                      • How to replace a Heatbed Thermistor (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)
                      • Print surface preparation
                      • How to replace a hotend heatsink (MK4 / MK3.9)
                      • How to replace xLCD (MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5)
                      • Regular printer maintenance (MK3.5/S)
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                      • Changing or replacing the Nextruder Hotend
                      • How to install the Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter (MK4S/MK3.9S)
                      • Maintenance warning #31117 (CORE One) #26117 (MK4S) #13117 (MK4) #27117 (MK3.9S) #21117 (MK3.9) #28117 (MK3.5S) #23117 (MK3.5)
                      • How to replace a heatbreak/heatsink/heaterblock (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)
                      • How to trim PTFE tube - Multi Material
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                      • How to replace PSU on MK3 printers
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                      • How to trim PTFE tube - Original Prusa printers
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                      • MK3 Series Hotend Guide
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                  4 comments

                  Log in  to post a comment
                  cpotter485
                  •
                  One additional danger with glue sticks is that you can leave gaps in the glue. For that reason, I apply glue only moderately thick, then use a wet sponge to spread it around. (wetter than damp but not so wet as to leave visible drops) You can get the glue thin and very uniform that way. Just wait a bit for it to dry thoroughly before printing.
                  Reply
                  Harris
                  •
                  I read a lot about using glue (sticks) but no real guidance on how that's done. It seems to me that just wiping a glue stick on the sheet is going to leave lines that will badly affect print quality. Is there a way of smoothing the glue? Or can liquid PVA glue (supplied for DIY woodwork) be used? Maybe diluted with a bit of water so it goes on smooth?
                  Reply
                  RockRider215
                  •
                  I've just wiped a glue stick onto the sheet and can see no negative effect on the print quality. When I remove the print, I wash off any glue residue from the first layer, which looks perfect with hardly any signs of glue having been used.
                  Reply
                  Andy Smithers
                  •
                  Thank you. As a newcomer to 3D printing, (Prusa Mk4s kit, worked first time, best Meccano kit yet!) I’m already addicted. This material guide is really useful. Saving up for the enclosure now as my first two ABS prints both delaminated.
                  Reply
                  Avinash
                  •
                  Is there any reason to avoid using glue, perhaps for any specific material?
                  Reply
                  UjinDesign
                  •
                  I avoid using glue just because it leaves a unsightly bottom surface on the prints that you have to wash off. It just requires some quick washing with water, but I'd rather avoid it entirely.
                  Reply