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How to post-process the printed parts

How to post-process the printed parts

How to post-process the printed parts
Last updated 3 years ago
How to post-process the printed parts
 Difficulty
Moderate
 Steps
14
 Available languages
CSDEESFRITJAPL

Step 1 Why to post-process the printed parts?

Why to post-process the printed parts?
Why to post-process the printed parts?
This guide will explain in detail, how to post-process printed parts used on Original Prusa i3 printers to ensure easy assembly afterwards.
Some printed parts designed for Original Prusa printers require post-processing. Skipping this part might cause issues and damage to the parts during the assembly.
3D printing is a very accurate manufacturing process, but there are some factors, which can affect the final printed part:
Temporary supports - must be removed after the print
Different material properties - not all PETG or ABS are equal
Defects in prints - strings, imperfections due to the geometry

Step 2 Tools used for the post-processing

Tools used for the post-processing
Tools used for the post-processing
Tools used for the post-processing
Tools used for the post-processing
WARNING: following tools can easily harm you. Make sure you read the manual from the tool manufacturer!
ALWAYS use protective equipment like safety glasses and gloves.
Recommended tools for this manual:
Sharp and thin cutting blade, the best option is a scalpel, but utility knife is also possible to use.
Twist drill bits, ideally with a flat head, but those aren't easy to find. The lower the angle on the bit's head the better. For printed parts you need two sizes:
8.1 mm / 0.3-inch drill bit (or slightly bigger, but not smaller)
3 mm / 0.12-inch drill bit (or slightly bigger, but not smaller)
Pliers with thin/slim jaw are the best, you can also use the bundled ones, but you might not be able to reach certain places.

Step 3 Optional tools for post-processing

Optional tools for post-processing
Optional tools for post-processing
Optional tools for post-processing
Following tools are not needed, though if you want to achieve the perfect shape and look we advise to use them:
Curved/rounded scalpel - some parts of the printed part are easier to clean with a curved blade.
Heat gun - certain materials tend to create strings during the print. Easiest way to remove them is by using a flow of hot air.
Optimal temperature for the heat gun is 250 °C (482 °F) and blow on the parts from a distance of 10 - 15cm (4 - 6 inches).
WARNING: Blowing hot air from a shorter distance can damage even melt the part!
Do not touch the HOT PARTS of the heat gun!!!

Step 5 General post processing (tips and tricks)

General post processing (tips and tricks)
General post processing (tips and tricks)
General post processing (tips and tricks)
General post processing (tips and tricks)
Use pliers to carefully remove the temporary supports.
Clean the screw and rod holes using drill bits. Avoid increasing the diameter of the hole.
Use a scalpel or utility knife and carefully remove the "elephant foot" (squished first layer) from the edges of the printed parts.

Step 6 General post processing (tips and tricks)

General post processing (tips and tricks)
General post processing (tips and tricks)
General post processing (tips and tricks)
General post processing (tips and tricks)
Use the heat gun to remove the strings on each printed parts.
Set the heat gun temperature to 250 °C (482 °F)
Blow the printed part from a distance of 10 - 15 cm (4 inch - 6 inch) until the strings melt.
Some strings may be thicker and may not simply melt. Remove them with the scalpel.
WARNING: Blowing hot air from a shorter distance can damage the part.

Step 7 Y-axis parts post-processing

Y-axis parts post-processing
Y-axis parts post-processing
Y-axis parts post-processing
Y-axis parts post-processing
NOTE: This step is for the MK3S only
Use a scalpel to remove debris in the screw groove on the Y-belt tensioner.
Use a 3 mm (0.12 inch) drill bit to clean all screw holes on the Y-axis plastic parts.

Step 8 X-axis parts post-processing

X-axis parts post-processing
X-axis parts post-processing
X-axis parts post-processing
X-axis parts post-processing
Clean the holes by drill bit 8.1 mm (0.3 inch) in the X-end-motor and the X-end-idler marked in the picture for easier insertion of the rods.
The drill bit must be parallel to the hole axis.
Check the drill tip position through the square hole. Do not drill the bottom of the hole!
Insert the rod into each cleaned hole. Try to slightly pull in and pull out the rod. The rod must not move freely in the printed part.
Use a 3 mm (0.12 inch) drill bit to clean all screw holes on the X-axis plastic parts.

Step 9 X-axis parts post-processing

X-axis parts post-processing
X-axis parts post-processing
X-axis parts post-processing
Cut the groove on the top surface of the X-end-motor and the X-end-idler for easier insertion of bearings into the holes.

Step 11 E-axis parts post-processing

E-axis parts post-processing
E-axis parts post-processing
E-axis parts post-processing
E-axis parts post-processing
Cut the groove on the P.I.N.D.A. sensor holder with a scalpel on the extruder-body.
Use a 3 mm (0.12 inch) drill bit to clean all screw holes on the E-axis plastic parts.

Step 12 E-axis parts post-processing

E-axis parts post-processing
E-axis parts post-processing
E-axis parts post-processing
E-axis parts post-processing
Drill both holes on the extruder-idler with a 3 mm (0.12 inch) drill bit.
It is CRUCIAL to drill both holes at the same time!
In the most cases, the printed fs-lever part requires removal of the edge of the first layer. This edge may subsequently cause malfunction of the filament sensor.
Carefully remove the edge with a scalpel, focus on the corner shown in the picture.

Step 13 E-axis parts post-processing

E-axis parts post-processing
E-axis parts post-processing
E-axis parts post-processing
E-axis parts post-processing
NOTE: This step is for MK3S/MK2.5S and you will need the steel ball.
Insert a piece of filament through the adapter-printer part to clean both filament guiding holes.
Insert the steel ball and roll with the ball to all sides to ensure smooth movement.
Push a piece of filament through the hole multiple times to clean it on the fs-cover part. Do not use 3mm (0.12inch) drill bit for cleaning this hole!
Use the 3mm (0.12inch) drill bit for cleaning the screw hole.
NOTE: The filament guiding holes must be properly cleaned!

Step 14 LCD parts post-processing

LCD parts post-processing
LCD parts post-processing
LCD parts post-processing
LCD parts post-processing
Use pliers and carefully remove the temporary supports in the SD card slot on LCD-cover.
Remove both temporary supports on the longer side, but keep the inclined part above, which will "lock" the PCB of the LCD in place (see the picture).
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