Before you proceed, it is recommended to protect the heatbed.
⬢Take off the flexible steel sheet.
⬢Use any cloth or piece of fabric, which is thick enough and cover the heatbed. This will ensure you won't damage (scratch) the surface during the disassembly.
⬢Carefully move the extruder apart. First, pull the motor, then the lower part with the print fan.
⬢Place the hotend inside the extruder.
⬢Ensure the hotend cables are on the same side as the hotend fan.
⬢IT IS CRUCIAL to ensure the hotend fits to the extruder-body!!! The printed part is shaped according to the hotend. See the second and the third picture!
Carefully and slowly push all the parts together. In case of any significant resistance STOP immediately and check, which part is blocking the movement .
⬢Use two zip ties and push them through the upper slots on the cable-holder.
⬢ATTENTION! Before tightening the zip ties add the cables from the hotend. Use the channel in the printed part to arrange them properly.
⬢Once the hotend cables are included, tighten the zip ties and cut remaining parts.
⬢Open the textile sleeve and insert the cables from the hotend.
⬢Compare the look of the cable management with the last picture.
The zip tie arrangement was tested with the injection molded double spool holder (provided in the kit and assembled later on). If you intend to use any other frame mounted type holder, make sure the zip ties won't crash into it, which might result in a print failure.
⬢Great job! You've just changed the hotend in the extruder.
⬢Heat up the printer and try it out ;)
Changing or manipulating the hotend will change the height of the layer. It is necessary to re-calibrate the first layer. Follow this article: First Layer Calibration (i3).
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