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                  1. Support
                  2. Printer maintenance
                  3. Removing filament from extruder manually
                   

                  Contents

                  • Idler door open
                  • Where did it break?
                  • Setup
                  • Method 1: Pushing the filament through the hotend
                  • Method 2: Pull out filament with pliers
                  • Nope, it is still stuck

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                  Removing filament from extruder manually

                  Relevant for

                  MMU family
                  MK3 family
                  MK3.5 family
                  OLD PRODUCTS
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                  In case there is a clog in your hotend, the filament might grind against the Bondtech-gears and be damaged enough so it can't be unloaded. It might snap right above the PTFE-tube when you try to pull it out by hand. In this case, the filament will need to be removed manually.

                  Idler door open

                  Open the idler door by removing the spring-loaded tension-screw(s), on the left side of the extruder.

                  MK3S, MK3S+, MK3.5/S extruder (single idler screw)MK3 extruder (two idler screws)
                   

                  MMU2S/MMU3 idler door

                  On the MMU, due to the "chimney" (IR-sensor-holder-mmu2s), you must remove the whole idler door by unscrewing the hinge- screw (red arrow) on the back. 
                   

                  Where did it break?

                  Use Method 1Use Method 2

                  If the filament snapped right at the edge of the PTFE you should start with Method number 1, where you try to push the filament through the hotend. If there is 0.5-1cm sticking out of the filament, reaching the Bondtech filament-pulley starts with Method number 2, pulling it out with pliers.

                  Setup

                  1. Go to the LCD Menu -> Settings -> Temperature -> Nozzle and set the temperature to 280º C. Wait for 3-5 minutes with the hotend at this temperature.
                  2. In the LCD menu in Settings, select Disable steppers.
                  3. Go to the  LCD Menu -> Settings -> F. Autoload, so A<em>utoload will not interfere.
                  From now on the hotend will be hot! Avoid touching the lower part of the extruder (heaterblock + nozzle)!

                  Method 1: Pushing the filament through the hotend

                  Using another piece of filament, a thin (1-1,5 mm) Allen-wrench or same diameter wire, at least 4.5 cm long for the MK3(s) and 6 cm long for the MMU2s, you are often able to simply push it through.

                   

                  1. Feed in from the top of the extruder your tool of choice, down past the Bondtech-gear, and on top of the stuck filament.
                  If you are able to push the stuck filament down the PTFE-tube with an Allen-wrench, switch to using filament after about 1-2 cm. Some Allen-wrenches may only be long enough to get it started.
                  1. In case the filament starts being extruded from the bottom, Keep pushing the filament to clear the nozzle and see the color change.

                  Method 2: Pull out filament with pliers

                  While hotend is heated to 280° C, firmly grab the filament with the needle-nose pliers that came with the printer. Slowly drag/feed the filament upwards, bit by bit, through the top of the extruder body, until it is completely removed from the PTFE-tube.

                  The filament can get stuck on geometry on the path up through where it is fed. It is also possible to pull it out of the idler door.

                   

                  After removing the filament, do a Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S) to ensure you have fully cleared the clog.

                  Nope, it is still stuck

                  If none of these methods work, it means that the tip is not touching the part of the hotend that is heated and is stuck in the PTFE-tube. In this case, you must extract the PTFE-tube. Follow the guide linked below to resolve it.

                  You will probably need to heat the hotend to extract the PTFE-tube with the stuck filament.
                  • How to replace a PTFE tube (MK3/MK2.5)
                  • How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)
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                  Topics

                  • Using the printer
                    • Printer maintenance
                      • Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+, MK3.5/S)
                      • MMU2S regular maintenance
                      • i3 Printer Regular Maintenance
                      • Testing safety features (MK3/MK3S)
                      • How to update firmware (MK3S+/MK3S/MK3)
                      • How to replace a heatbreak/heaterblock/heatsink (MK3/MK2.5)
                      • How to remove a stripped screw
                      • SD cards and USB drives
                      • Adjusting belt tension (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MK3/S/+)
                      • Hotend disassembly & heatbreak stuck in the heatsink
                      • Removing filament from extruder manually
                      • How to replace a hotend thermistor (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)
                      • Firmware updating (MMU2S)
                      • Firmware updating (MK2.5S/MK2S)
                      • How to replace a print fan (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • How to replace a hotend (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • How to replace an IR-sensor (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • How to replace a P.I.N.D.A. sensor (MK3S)
                      • How to replace SuperPINDA (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • How to replace bearings on the Y-axis (MK3S+)
                      • How to replace bearings on the X-axis (MK3S+)
                      • How to replace a hotend heater (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • Community translations
                      • How to replace the xBuddy board (MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5)
                      • How to replace a Heatbed Thermistor (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)
                      • MMU3 regular maintenance
                      • Print surface preparation
                      • How to replace xLCD (MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5)
                      • How to update firmware (MMU3)
                      • Regular printer maintenance (MK3.5/S)
                      • How to use accelerometer (MK3.5/S)
                      • Maintenance warning #31117 (CORE One) #26117 (MK4S) #13117 (MK4) #27117 (MK3.9S) #21117 (MK3.9) #28117 (MK3.5S) #23117 (MK3.5)
                      • Maintenance failure warning #28116 (MK3.5S) #23116 (MK3.5)
                      • Maintenance failure warning #31116 (CORE One) #26116 (MK4S) #13116 (MK4) #27116 (MK3.9S) #21116 (MK3.9)
                      • Packing the MK4/S + MMU3 bundle for return - original packaging
                      • How to replace a heatbreak/heatsink/heaterblock (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)
                      • How to replace a PTFE tube (MK3/MK2.5)
                      • How to trim PTFE tube - Multi Material
                      • Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)
                      • How to post-process the printed parts
                      • How to replace a heatbed thermistor (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MK2S)
                      • How to replace PSU on MK3 printers
                      • How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)
                      • How to replace a hotend thermistor (MK2S)
                      • How to trim PTFE tube - Original Prusa printers
                      • Maintenance tips
                      • Replacing the PEI sheet on the (MK3S/MK3/MK2.5S/MK2.5)
                      • MK3 Series Hotend Guide
                    • 3D models
                    • Material guide
                    • Slicing
                    • Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

                  8 comments

                  Log in  to post a comment
                  JohnnyR
                  •
                  My machine is an MK3S. Method 2, using a pliers to pull the filament, worked well. I actually used a small diagonal cutter to get better purchase on the filament by biting into it but not severing completely.

                  Good procedure!
                  Reply
                  ePortID
                  •
                  You say:
                  In the LCD menu in Settings, select Disable steppers.
                  Go to the LCD Menu -> Settings -> F. Autoload, so Autoload will not interfere.

                  I have the CORE One and no such settings exist.
                  Reply
                  d_sward01
                  •
                  How do I remove filament on an xl?
                  Reply
                  Sudz
                  •
                  I'm getting filament stuck almost every other unload. Is this symptom of another problem? Last time with some Unnervingly strong force I was able to push it down with my Allen key but it didn't go far enough this time. I have some 1.5mm stainless rod coming today to try and deal with this scenario, But I suspect I have a root cause and rather not treat the symptom but the source. 
                  Reply
                  bel3atar
                  •
                  I moved the print head during manual removal. Resumed the print and noticed it was offset.
                  Please add a feature to re-home the print head after manual filament removal.
                  Reply
                  Theguy
                  •
                  I agree. This just happened to me. The print head moved while I was extracting the stuck filament and the printer lost its place. It needs to have the ability to home after changing the filament. I just wasted a lot of a large print job
                  Reply