Assembled hotend (MK3S+) out of stock

Bad first layer print

Bad first print

sparking on heatbed

Is it possible to set the unload speed?

Shipping information

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical</strong> resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the XY plane, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">To get the best of both worlds, consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Maximum layer height for your nozzle</strong><br />The layer height should be <strong>below 80%</strong> of the <strong>nozzle diameter</strong> (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with very low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or as a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</div>
<p> </p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, with the exception of the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top part of each model is usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change you make, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well in order to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-300x74.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-600x147.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-768x188.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-800x196.png 800w" alt="" width="709" height="174" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see a little bit of sag of the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that when you’re printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</div>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't really do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">This option was removed in PrusaSlicer 2.6. The new algorithm is much smarter than the previous implementations and it is automatically applied where needed.</div>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, and that is having holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer makes sure it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space for it, an infill pattern is used to fill the void between these inside/outside perimeters. </p>
<p>Enabling <strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate just a single perimeter that works as both inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<p>This feature is automatically disables, if the <strong>Arachne perimeter generator</strong> is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historic reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look very good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances, but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em> Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan. </p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arranged into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<h3>Perimeter generator</h3>
<p>Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.</p>


Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

Infill patterns

Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1S) is a recommended accessory for the Original Prusa SL1S

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade

Original Prusa Enclosure assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK3.9 upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK4 upgrade

Original Prusa MK4 kit assembly

Original Prusa MMU3 Assembly

Original Prusa XL Single-head to Five-head upgrade

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Assembled)

Original Prusa SL1 to SL1S SPEED upgrade

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa MINI+ kit assembly

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Assembled)

The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa i3 to MMU2S upgrade

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Assembled)

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S to MK3S+ upgrade

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer is based on the MSLA printing process. Unlike Original Prusa i3 machines, this printer uses a high-resolution LCD panel and a UV LED to cure thin layers of resin to achieve an unprecedented level of detail.

Original Prusa SL1 kit assembly

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK3 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK1 to MK2 upgrade

Original Prusa XL - beta test

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm to 1.75 mm upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2/S to MMU1 upgrade

The Original Prusa MINI/MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S is a successor to Original Prusa i3 MK2 with small hardware tweaks for easier assembly and improved reliability.

Original Prusa i3 MK2S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S to MK3 upgrade

The Original Prusa i3 MK3 is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 MMU1 to MK2.5S MMU2S

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK2.5 to MMU2 v1.01

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 to MK2.5S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Slicing

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

Printer troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Printer simulator

Protective Shields

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Left toolbar

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

Multi-material slicing

SLA slicing

Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

Printables Clubs

Printables

1. Introduction

Introduction

2. Y-axis assembly

2A. MK3 Extruder disassembly

3. X-axis assembly

4. Z-axis assembly

3A. MK3 Extruder upgrade

5. E-axis assembly (spiral wrap)

3B. MK3S Extruder upgrade

5. E-axis assembly (textile sleeve)

4. Electronics assembly

6. LCD assembly

7. Heatbed & PSU assembly (spiral wrap)

7. Heatbed & PSU assembly (textile sleeve)

8. Electronics assembly (B3/R2 design)

8. Electronics assembly (B7/R3 design)

9. Preflight check

Manual changelog

Prusa firmware-specific G-code commands

<p>The Original Prusa magnetic heatbed is designed to hold a removable double-sided flexible spring-steel sheet, designed specifically for easy removal of printed objects from the print surface.</p>
<p><strong>We offer 3 different types of sheets</strong>, with different strengths and attributes. The first sheet released was with a <strong>Smooth PEI sticker on both sides</strong>. Second, after using it for several years in our own print farm, we solved reliable manufacturing of the <strong>powder-coated textured sheet</strong>, aimed at production environments using PETG and other high-adhesion filaments. The latest addition is <strong>the Satin sheet</strong>, which in both texture and properties lies between the smooth and the textured sheet. For more information on each sheet, please see their respective articles linked below. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 36px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="266" height="266" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="266" height="266" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="266" height="266" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/smooth-steel-sheet_196550">Smooth sheet</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/textured-steel-sheet_196534">Textured sheet</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/satin-steel-sheet_196526">Satin sheet</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-398x400.jpg 398w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-598x600.jpg 598w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-768x771.jpg 768w" alt="" width="266" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-398x400.jpg 398w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-598x600.jpg 598w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-768x771.jpg 768w" alt="" width="266" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-398x400.jpg 398w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-598x600.jpg 598w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-768x771.jpg 768w" alt="" width="266" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3><strong>General information</strong></h3>
<p>The removable spring steel sheet is held in place by a number of magnets glued to the heatbed, from the bottom side. On the top of the heatbed, there are two pins (left picture) that align perfectly with a notch in the spring steel sheet (right picture). <em>Before putting the steel sheet on the heatbed, make sure the heatbed is clean and free of any filament debris.</em></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/aligning-pins.jpg" /></p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">Please ignore the two holes in the steel sheet that are on the opposite side of the notch. Those are from the manufacturing process and are not for aligning the sheet on the bed.</div>
</div>
<h3>Steel sheet profiles</h3>
<p>Each sheet needs a different Live-Z value, as they have slightly different thicknesses. If you are using multiple different sheets, the value for each sheet can be stored in the Steel sheet profiles. For more information see the article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</p>
<h3>Removing prints</h3>
<p>To remove the printed object from the print surface, always wait until the steel sheet<strong> cools down to room temperature.</strong> Then you can take it off by <strong>bending the sheet</strong> inwards and outwards, but you may have to assist using a spatula to avoid damage to the sheet. <strong>For materials like PETG, ASA, ABS, and PC Blend, and/or prints with a large first layer surface, a separation layer in the form of gluestick may be required.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-600x137.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-800x183.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-300x69.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-768x176.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-1536x351.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="800" height="183" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div>
<p>In case you are still having trouble removing the model even after letting it cool down or the surface got damaged during the removal (a piece of the surface was ripped off or cracked), you might be using a filament type that is not suitable for being printed on this kind of print sheet or the surface was not prepared correctly. Please see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/materials">Material table</a> for filament and print sheet compatibility and surface preparation.</p>
<p>If you are using a spatula to help with the model removal, make sure to avoid damage to the sheet surface. Bend the sheet slightly and insert the spatula under the model whenever possible, instead of digging under the model on a flat surface.</p>
<p>For a stubborn print that refuses to be released from the print surface, you can try to re-heat the heatbed for a few minutes (to the original print temperature) and then let it cool down again. This can sometimes help with the removal of the prints that are too stuck to the print surface.</p>
</div>
<div class="warning-callout">Consumable parts, such as print sheets (satin, smooth, textured, etc.) are not covered by warranty as the coatings will diminish over time. Unless failure has occurred due to a defect in materials or workmanship, cosmetic damage, including but not limited to scratches, dents, cracks, or another cosmetic damage is also not covered by the warranty. Only defective sheets on arrival are covered by warranty.</div>
<h3>Differences between the sheets</h3>
<p>It is possible to use all sheets for printing almost any type of material if cleaned properly and the first layer (Live Z) is set correctly. However, there are certain benefits to using one sheet or the other for certain materials and models.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">The smooth and textured sheets have different thicknesses, which requires you to redo the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> or make use of different <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>, when switching between them.</div>
<div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.1298%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-1536x1536.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="266" height="266" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 32.1298%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-1536x1536.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="266" height="266" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 32.2418%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-1536x1536.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="266" height="266" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.1298%; text-align: center;">
<p><em>Close-up of a printed object on the</em></p>
<p><em>Smooth sheet</em></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.1298%; text-align: center;">
<p><em>Close-up of a printed object on the</em></p>
<p><em>Textured sheet</em></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.2418%; text-align: center;">
<p><em>Close-up of a printed object on the</em></p>
<p><em>Satin sheet</em></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<h4>Smooth PEI sheet</h4>
<p>Both sides of this sheet are covered by a sticker made from smoothed PEI plastic. This is the same time-tested surface type that was used on the older MK2S printers. Prints with a small area touching the print surface or with sharp corners are less likely to detach when printing on a smooth spring steel sheet. Some users also like the smooth and shiny bottom side of their prints. <strong>For all details and considerations of the Smooth sheet, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/smooth-steel-sheet_196550">Smooth Steel Sheet</a>.</strong></p>
<h4>Powder-coated textured sheet</h4>
<p>The surface of this sheet is covered with a special polymer (Ultem) to ensure perfect adhesion. The powder-coated steel sheets are better for printing objects with materials such as PETG, CPE, or Flexfill (TPU) which tend to adhere too much to a smooth surface, but can be more easily removed from the textured one. <strong>For all details and considerations of the Textured sheet, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/textured-steel-sheet_196534">Textured steel sheet</a>.</strong></p>
<h4>Satin sheet</h4>
<p>The Satin sheet further expands our line-up of print sheets. Its powder-coated surface with a lightly textured matte finish offers an optimal level of adhesion and is fully compatible with a wide range of common and less-common filaments. <strong>For all details and considerations of the Satin sheet, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/satin-steel-sheet_196526">Satin steel sheet</a>.</strong></p>
<h3>Filaments</h3>
<p>We have done a lot of testing and compiled our results for you to use. To easily see how to prepare your sheet for any filament type, please <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>see our Material table</strong></a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Screenshot-material-table2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Screenshot-material-table2-600x294.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Screenshot-material-table2-800x392.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Screenshot-material-table2-300x147.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Screenshot-material-table2-768x376.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Screenshot-material-table2-1536x752.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Screenshot-material-table2.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1780" height="872" loading="lazy" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: right;"><em>*Values in this screenshot may not be up to date.</em></p>
<h3>Prints don’t stick</h3>
<p>If your print surface is perfectly clean and all grease has been removed by wiping it with a paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol 90% and if the first layer height is set up perfectly, yet your print still does not adhere reliably to the print surface, check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</p>


Flexible steel sheets (guidepost)

<div class="warning-callout"><strong>IMPORTANT: </strong>The <strong>Pronterface software is a long-abandoned project</strong> with the last stable release 1.6.0 in 2017. <strong>The information provided below is valid to the Pronterface 1.6.0.</strong> In 2023 the author released a stable version of a successor named Printrun, which is being evaluated and will get its separate article.</div>
<p>Pronterface is an application where you can monitor and send commands to your printer. It is also possible to use it to start prints over USB, however, performance may vary. Pronterface is a part of the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">Drivers and Apps</a> installation package, along with PrusaSlicer and system drivers. This means that if you have installed PrusaSlicer, you have Pronterface as well unless you intentionally chose not to install it.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">The latest stable version of this app is 32-bit and, therefore, will not work on 64-bit macOS Catalina. Apple has completely dropped the 32-bit app support. The only workaround, for now, is to use the Pronterface 2.0.0rc8 version (or newer, if available). However, the "RC" is not a final version, and we cannot guarantee it will work flawlessly. This version of Pronterface is available for download on <a href="https://github.com/kliment/Printrun/releases">GitHub</a>.</div>
<h3>Setting up USB connection and Pronterface</h3>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/usb.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/usb-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/usb-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/usb-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/usb-800x317.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li>Connect the printer to your computer with the USB type B cable that you have received with your printer. </li>
<li>Choose the connection port in Pronterface. Mac users use <em>/usbmodem</em> port, PC Windows ports are COM1, COM2, etc.; the correct port is displayed in the device manager, Linux users connect the printer using the virtual serial port. When the printer is connected, click the <span class="key">Connect</span> button. The right column displays the connection information.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>'RPi port' must be set to OFF within Settings, in the printer's LCD menu,</strong> to be able to connect to the printer by USB.</div>
<ol start="3">
<li>The next step is to load the model with the <span class="key">Load model</span> button and to choose the <strong>file name.gcode</strong> (no special symbols are allowed in the file name).</li>
<li>You can control the movement of all printer axes in the control area.</li>
<li>Next, you can preheat the printer and prepare it for printing. Set the temperature for the nozzle (heater) and heatbed (bed) and click the <span class="key">Set</span> button. The printer will start heating immediately. <em><strong>Always make sure that the temperature set in Pronterface is correct for the given material.</strong></em></li>
<li>You can check the actual temperatures of the nozzle and the bed in Pronterface.</li>
<li>When the model is loaded, the right column shows the estimated print duration: <strong>Estimated duration (pessimistic).</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Keep in mind that when printing through Pronterface, the <strong style="color: #000000;">c</strong><strong style="color: #000000;">omputer</strong> <strong style="color: #000000;">must</strong> <strong style="color: #000000;">be</strong> <strong style="color: #000000;">connected</strong> <strong style="color: #000000;">t</strong><strong style="color: #000000;">o</strong> <strong style="color: #000000;">t</strong><strong style="color: #000000;">he printer</strong> <strong style="color: #000000;">during</strong> <strong style="color: #000000;">t</strong><strong style="color: #000000;">he</strong> <strong style="color: #000000;">entire </strong><strong style="color: #000000;">printing</strong> <strong style="color: #000000;">process</strong> - the computer must be prevented from going into sleep mode, hibernation, or shut down. Disconnecting the computer during the print ends the printing process without the option to finish the object.</div>
<h3>How to operate Pronterface</h3>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pronterface.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pronterface-300x201.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pronterface-598x400.jpg 598w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pronterface-768x514.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pronterface-800x535.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li>The <span class="key">Load file</span> button is used to load the desired model. The model must be in <strong>.gcode</strong> file format.</li>
<li>Choose the port to which the printer is connected to the computer. (mostly <em>/usbmodem</em> for Mac, COM1, COM2, etc. for Windows PC).</li>
<li>The <span class="key">Print</span> button starts the printing process.</li>
<li>The <span class="key">Disconnect</span> button disconnects the printer from the computer.</li>
<li>The printer controls give you the ability to manipulate the printer axes.</li>
<li>Setting the <strong>nozzle</strong> and <strong>bed temperatures</strong>.</li>
<li><strong>Thermometer</strong>.</li>
<li>Confirming the set temperatures, heating starts.</li>
<li>2D print process <strong>preview.</strong></li>
<li>Info panel. <strong>Estimated print time</strong>, axis position, and other info show up after loading the model. </li>
</ol>


Pronterface and USB cable

<p>The Magnetic heatbed enables you to use flexible, <strong>removable steel sheets</strong>. There are different properties and strengths of each sheet, but they also have different thickness which affects calibration.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For more details on the different flexible steel sheet and their properties, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheets (guidepost)</a>.</div>
<p>Therefore <strong>we introduced Steel sheet profiles in firmware version 3.8.0 for MK2.5, MK2.5S, MK3, MK3S, MK3S+, and 4.3.0 for MINI and MINI+.</strong> On all machines, you will find Steel sheet profiles under <em>Settings -&gt; HW setup</em>. It allows you to create up to 8 specialized profiles for your printer setup. </p>
<p>By default, each sheet has the same factory settings. You must set the value for each sheet you wish to use. You can then easily switch between the sheets (profiles), and the printer will load the stored values. The printer will not remind you to change the steel sheet profile, as <strong>it cannot sense which steel sheet you have.</strong></p>
<div class="tip-callout">The HW Setup menu also has other features. For more info see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hw-setup-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_1943">HW setup (MK2.5/S &amp; MK3/S/+)</a>.</div>
<h3>How it works (MK2.5/S &amp; MK3/S/+)</h3>
<p>There are currently eight sheet profiles available with predefined, but customizable names.</p>
<p>To set up the individual sheet profiles, please head to the <em>LCDMenu</em> -&gt; <em>Settings -&gt; HW setup -&gt; Steel Sheets</em>:</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets-600x192.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets-800x256.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets-300x96.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets-768x246.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets.jpg 1600w" alt="hw setup profiles" width="600" height="192" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>For each sheet, the following settings are available:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Select</strong> - confirms the selection of the sheet, which will then become the default</li>
<li><strong>First layer calibration</strong> - starts the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> process for the given profile</li>
<li><strong>Rename</strong> - enables you to change the name, up to seven characters</li>
<li><strong>Reset</strong> - sets the values back to the factory defaults</li>
</ul>
<h4>Quick-toggle</h4>
<p>As soon as two or more profiles are configured (by the First Layer Calibration), you will be able to quick-toggle between them directly from the main menu.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets2-600x192.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets2-800x255.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets2-300x96.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets2-768x245.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/HW-setup-steel-sheets2.jpg 1600w" alt="hw profile 2" width="600" height="192" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Don't forget which profile you have attributed to which plate!</strong> Always carefully watch your first layer and in case the nozzle is too high or too low, stop the print and fix it either by setting the correct profile or by modifying the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/live-adjust-z_112427">Live adjust Z</a>.</div>
<h4>Renaming of the sheet</h4>
<p>After selecting the <strong>Rename</strong> option in the sheet profile menu, you can change up to 7 characters of the profile name. The word "Sheet" cannot be changed; it is the "<strong>Smooth1</strong>", "<strong>Textur1</strong>" etc. that you can customize. There is no way to delete or erase a wrongly selected character, but you can always restart the renaming procedure.</p>
<p>You start from the left and move to the right. By turning the knob, you are changing the characters, and by clicking it, you confirm the current character and move to the next one. When a character position is redefined, a small chevron mark will appear underneath it.</p>
<h3>How it works (MINI/+)</h3>
<p>Starting from the firmware version 4.3.0, there are currently eight sheet profiles available.</p>
<p>To set up the individual sheet profiles, please head to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; HW setup -&gt; Steel Sheets</em> (left picture).</p>
<p>For each sheet, the following settings are available (right picture):</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Select</strong> - confirms the selection of the sheet, which will then become the default</li>
<li><strong>First layer calibration</strong> - starts the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-mini-mini_229122">First Layer Calibration</a> process for the given profile</li>
<li><strong>Reset</strong> - sets the values back to the factory defaults</li>
</ul>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="text-align: center;">
<td style="width: 48.7995%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles_upscaled-300x400.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles_upscaled-450x600.jpg 450w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles_upscaled-225x300.jpg 225w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles_upscaled-768x1024.jpg 768w" alt="" width="300" height="400" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9112%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles-Select_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles-Select_upscaled-300x400.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles-Select_upscaled-450x600.jpg 450w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles-Select_upscaled-225x300.jpg 225w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_HW-setu-steel-sheet-profiles-Select_upscaled-768x1024.jpg 768w" alt="" width="300" height="400" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Quick-toggle</h4>
<p>As soon as two or more profiles are configured (by the First Layer Calibration), you will be able to quick-toggle between them directly from the <em>Settings</em> menu.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI-Settings-Select-sheet_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI-Settings-Select-sheet_upscaled-300x400.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI-Settings-Select-sheet_upscaled-450x600.jpg 450w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI-Settings-Select-sheet_upscaled-225x300.jpg 225w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI-Settings-Select-sheet_upscaled-768x1024.jpg 768w" alt="" width="300" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>


Steel sheet profiles

<p>If you have any questions about 3D printing in general, about your order, shipping, calibration or troubleshooting of your printer, don't hesitate to contact us! We are providing full 24/7 customer support via live chat and e-mail (info@prusa3d.com). Our support is available in <strong>Czech, English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, and Polish languages.</strong></p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Live Chat -&nbsp;</strong>we are available 24/7. It can be found in our <a href="http://shop.prusa3d.com">online store</a> in the bottom right corner. Make sure you are logged in!</div>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Email -</strong> Our contact e-mail is <a href="mailto:info@prusa3d.com">info@prusa3d.com</a>.&nbsp;</div>
<p><strong>We can help you out with:&nbsp;</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Ordering any of our products through our online store.</li>
<li>Pre-sale questions and learning more about our products.</li>
<li>Checking on your pending order.</li>
<li>Assembly and calibration of your newly purchased printer.</li>
<li>Solving printing problems and queries.</li>
</ul>
<h2><strong>Knowledge base</strong></h2>
<p>That is where you are right now! In the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com">Prusa Knowledge Base</a>, you can find answers to the same questions you may ask on chat and email, and much more!</p>
<p>You can either search for topics using the <strong>search field</strong>, and read articles relevant to your <strong>printer model</strong> by selecting it on the main page, or you can browse through our seven <strong>main categories:<br /></strong></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/assembly-manuals_272">Assembly manuals</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/about-your-printer_201">About your printer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/calibration_199">Calibration</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/using-the-printer_202">Using the printer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/troubleshooting_194">Troubleshooting</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/general-info_1910">PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/3rd-party-accessories-other-projects_246">3rd party accessories</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/materials">Extensive Material guides</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Handbook and Assembly manuals</h3>
<p>Assembly and printing documentation is available in Czech, English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, and Polish.</p>
<p>To download the handbook, visit <a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">the Downloads page</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printer-handbooks_125045">its dedicated Knowledgebase article</a>. Assembly manuals you will find <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">right here</a> in this Knowledge Base. These sections are updated regularly, so it's always better to use the online version of the documentation.</p>
<h2><strong>Prusa 3D&nbsp;</strong></h2>
<p><a href="https://prusa3d.com">https://prusa3d.com</a> is our company website, where you can find an overview of everything we do. It also contains the following sections:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">Our Eshop</a>, where you can order printers, filament, and spare parts.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Printable parts</a>, where you can find the latest STL models for our 3D printers.&nbsp;</li>
<li><a href="https://www.printables.com/social/16-prusa-research/collections">Sample objects</a>, where you can find some tested and approved models to print.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">Drivers and manuals</a>, where you can find the latest drivers, manuals, and firmware versions.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2><strong>Printables.com</strong></h2>
<p><a href="Printables.com">Printables.com</a> is our community platform for everything 3D printer-related. We have prepared a unique concept of a community website and we have tried to make it simple and unified all aspects of the Prusa Research community under a single login.&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Here you will find:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong><a href="https://www.printables.com/model">Our model depository and marketplace</a></strong>&nbsp;with over 50 000 prints and thousands of users who want to share their models, printing services, and skills. Here you will find not only STL files but also G-Codes for the Original Prusa printers, which you can print instantly and without effort. We check every uploaded file for potentially harmful commands (crashing nozzle to bed, overheating, etc…).</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/">'Blog'</a></strong> - company blog where our editors publish articles about the development of our printers, latest information about Prusa Research, and informative texts about our 3D printers or 3D printing in general.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://forum.prusa3d.com/">'Forum'</a></strong> - Here you will find the main core of our community. Join discussions and share your experiences with other makers and Original Prusa owners around the world.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://world.prusa3d.com/">'World'</a></strong> - This is a map of all Prusa printers out in the wild. You can place your own marker in the map – either as a general (approximate) location or an exact one – e.g. if you are a business. You can choose from three options: if you want to help out other folks, print on demand, or just hang out.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://www.printables.com/group/discover">'Groups'</a></strong> is a way to coordinate with other makers in your specific area. This concept grew exponentially when the 2020 pandemic hit, and makers had a way to coordinate their efforts in printing PPE for their local hospitals and general practitioners. That is of course only the tip of the iceberg so for more information on Groups, please have a look at our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-coordinate-not-only-producing-of-protective-face-shields-via-prusaprinters-groups_32794/">Blog article on the subject</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you haven’t heard about Pritables before, don’t forget to check out <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/prusaprinters-org-is-now-printables-com-ultimate-database-of-3d-models-for-everyone_66880//">our article</a> and <a href="https://youtu.be/v9CjXtnimFE">Youtube video</a>. <strong>If you haven’t registered yet, I hope you’ll consider it now – after all, it’s the users who keep the community alive.</strong></p>
<h2><strong>Our social media</strong></h2>
<p>Our official social media accounts and channels are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PrusaResearch/">Prusa Research 3D printers</a></li>
<li>Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/Prusa3D">Prusa3D by Josef Prusa</a></li>
<li>Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/josefprusa/">josefprusa</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/prusament/">Prusament</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h2><strong>Forum</strong></h2>
<p>We strongly suggest visiting our official forum at <a href="forum.prusa3d.com">forum.prusa3d.com</a>, where you can find plenty of tips and inspiration, as well as up-to-date information about the Original Prusa printers and upgrades.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">To create an account on our forum, you need to go to the online store first and create an account there. A forum account with the same login credentials will be automatically created. However, any changes made in any of the two profiles won't be reflected in the other one. Please keep that in mind while changing your profile details, such as the password.&nbsp;</div>
<h2>Unofficial support channels</h2>
<p>There are plenty of unofficial places where you can find great tips regarding 3D printing. The community is vast and growing every day, and the atmosphere is usually very friendly and enthusiastic.</p>
<p>You can join one of our groups on Facebook:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/Prusai3users/">Original Josef Prusa i3/MK2/S/3 Owners</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunityresin/">Prusa Community Forum - Official Prusa SL1 Group</a></li>
<li>There are other groups covering a wide range of languages.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">Keep in mind that we are not responsible for any information found outside of our official support channels.</div>


Customer support

<p>Starting from firmware 3.12.0, the Original Prusa MK3/S/+ will have Thermal model protection. This will result in better operation when dealing with thermal errors.</p>
<h3>How it works</h3>
<p>During the print, the printer is constantly comparing the temperature measured by the thermistors to a thermal model of what is expected from the printer. In case the measured temperature does not follow the model, the printer will beep and show the warning THERMAL ANOMALY, but the print will continue. If the anomaly disappears the warning goes away after 20 seconds. In case the anomaly continues, the printer will turn off the heating and activate an error. If you choose to continue the print after it stops, it is recommended to stay near the printer.</p>
<p>This will help in cases where the temperature issue is temporary, like when a window is opened near the printer. Also, in case the printer has a blob that wraps around the hotend, the thermal model should be able to stop the print before any damage is done to the hotend cables.</p>
<p>If you're interested in further details of how the thermal model works, check the <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/mk3s-3-12-beta-firmware-new-thermal-model-protection-and-blob-detection_71230/">Dev diary blog</a>.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The printer knows only that something is wrong, i.e., when the system is not performing as expected. It is up to the user to inspect the printer and check for issues.</div>
<h3>Calibration</h3>
<p>When installing the new firmware, the printer will start the calibration. In case it does not go in the printer menu to <em>Calibration -&gt; Thermal Model cal</em>. It takes around 12 minutes, after which your printer profile is automatically saved.</p>
<p>The Thermal model also works for third-party components. Note that if you switch components in your printer often, the Thermal Anomaly error might start to appear more often. If this happens, run the calibration again.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you are using an enclosure, the Einsy-board needs to be <strong>inside</strong> the enclosure for the Thermal model to work, or it will cause false triggers.</div>
<h3>Troubleshooting</h3>
<p>In case the Thermal anomaly message keeps showing, try first doing a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/pid-tuning_2265">PID tuning</a> using the temperature you normally print at, and then go <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Thermal Model cal.</em>, and make the Thermal calibration again</p>
<div class="note-callout">If you still have issues with the calibration after this procedure, make some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/photo-and-video-documentation_112155">Photo and video documentation</a> and contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a>.</div>
<h3>Limitations</h3>
<p>Since the thermal model was developed on a model of a factory-assembled extruder, it may not work correctly on some modified or after-market extruders. If you have a Revo installed on your printer, make sure you have the specific firmware found in our <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/releases/tag/v3.13.1">GitHub page</a>.</p>
<p>If you experience issues during the calibration process, start the process described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-dump_364959">Crash dump</a>, and after the logging starts, reset the printer and enter the sequence:</p>
<pre class="language-markup"><code>M310 ;report current temp model settings
M155 S1 C3 ;enable advanced temp and fan logging
D70 I1 ;enable temp model debug logging
M310 A F1;run temp model calibration</code></pre>
<p>In case you run into issues during the printing process, use the process described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-dump_364959">Crash dump</a>, and after the logging starts run the sequence:</p>
<pre class="language-markup"><code>M310 ;report current temp model settings
M155 S1 C3 ;enable advanced temp and fan logging
D70 I1 ;enable temp model debug logging</code></pre>
<h3>Disabling the Thermal model protection</h3>
<p>The thermal model protection can be disabled by connecting the printer to your computer (Octoprint, PuTTY...), and sending <em>M310 S0</em>. An additional <em>M500</em> will save the setting and the Thermal model protection will remain disabled after the next restart.</p>


Thermal model calibration

<h3>How do I get the kit or assembled printer owner discount?</h3>
<p>As stated on our website: <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com">Prusa3D</a>, if you purchase an assembled MK3S+ printer, we offer a 10% discount on your upcoming five subsequent purchases of an <strong>assembled printer of the same type</strong> and on 30 spools of selected filaments per year <strong>(not applicable to the</strong> <strong>MK4</strong>). If you choose to purchase your printer as a kit, we offer a 5% discount on 30 spools of selected filaments per year. In both cases, the discount is automatically activated in your account as soon as your first kit or printer is shipped.</p>
<h3>Can I have my printer's frame signed by Jo?</h3>
<p>Josef can sign the frame, but please know it can delay the expedition for over a month. He is very busy these days. If it's OK with you, you can ask for the signature in an email or via Live Chat.</p>
<h3>What are the printer dimensions?</h3>
<p>The dimensions are (W×L×H or X×Y×Z):</p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>Mini</strong> printer has 12.6 × 13 × 15 inch / 320 × 330 × 380 mm and 5 kg</li>
<li>Mini print area: 7×7×7 inch / 180 × 180 × 180 mm</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>SL1</strong> printer has 8.7 × 9.45 × 16.3 inch / 220 × 240 × 415 mm and 11 kg</li>
<li>SL1 print area: 4.7 × 2.6 × 5.9 inch / 120 × 68 × 150 mm</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>i3</strong> (MK2/3) printer itself has 16.5 × 16.5 × 15 inches / 420 × 420 × 380 mm and 7 kg</li>
<li>MK3/S print area: 9.8 × 8.2 × 8.2 inches / 250 × 210 × 210 mm</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that the mini and all i3 printers need some more space when in use. Especially in front of and behind them, as the heatbed is moving outside their footprint. Count with 19.7 × 21.5 × 21.5 inches / 500 × 550 × 450 mm (400 × 450 × 450 mm for the Mini), without the spool or MMU.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">If you are building an enclosure, you can add even more space in every direction, for better access and manipulation. For the MMU, add 150 mm / 6 in, in height, and think about <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/spool-placement_112035">where to put the 5 spools</a> (behind the printer or above).</div>
<h3>What is the printing precision/tolerance of the Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the precision tolerance of a well-assembled Original Prusa printer is 0,1 mm on the Z-axis and 0,3 mm on X and Y. It can be as little as 0,05 mm on all axes, after making additional calibrations such as the Extrusion multiplier calibration and Extruder linearity correction.</p>
<p>However, please note that the material is also relevant: it can shrink while cooling down, and low-quality filaments with uneven diameters will cause uneven extrusion. The optimization of the model for 3D printing (overhangs, etc.) is also important. Our printers are tested even for the 0.25 mm nozzle, which is more precise compared to the standard/stock nozzle with a 0.4 mm diameter. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/troubleshooting/dimension-errors">This article</a> studies the accuracy of FDM printing in more detail.</div>
<h3>What tools do I need when working with my Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>All necessary tools (pliers, screwdriver, hex keys, wrenches…) are included in the package. If you are wondering what else you could need, here is a list of some nice-to-have things:</p>
<ul>
<li>3.5'' side-cutter/flush-cutter pliers</li>
<li>White permanent marker</li>
<li>Compressed air</li>
<li>A big bottle of IPA 91% to clean the sheet</li>
<li>Acetone (only with the smooth sheet)</li>
</ul>
<h3>What is the life expectancy of the printer?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the average maintenance interval of our printers is around 800 print hours. When it needs to be serviced, most frequently, it’s the nozzle that needs to be changed, and then it can continue printing for many hundreds of hours more.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The ideal air temperature is from 20 - 30 °C (68 - 86 °F) and the ideal air humidity is 25 %.</div>
<h3>What is the power consumption of a PRUSA printer?</h3>
<p>The average power consumption that we have measured, at 26 °C (room temperature), is 80 W when printing generic PLA and 120 W when printing generic ABS.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>


FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

<p>With our Original Prusa i3 MK3, we have introduced a logic board called <strong>Einsy RAMBo</strong>. It works on 24V and uses Trinamic drivers for motors, allowing for super silent printing and much more.</p>
<h3>Electronics wiring</h3>
<p>Organizing all the cables can be a bit challenging, so we recommend you take your time. If there are any issues with your printer's wiring, they will be most likely discovered by the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/selftest-failed-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2045">Selftest failed (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a> or when running the initial <strong>Wizard.</strong> For more information <strong>about the cable management</strong>, we recommend checking <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/8-electronics-assembly_174100">Electronics assembly</a> of the assembly manual.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Note, that the filament sensor is called the <strong>IR sensor</strong> on the MK3S. The position of its cable is still the same.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/readings.jpeg" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="tip-callout">For more information about the fuses, check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/blown-fuse-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_1925">this article</a>.</div>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Did you know, that...?<br /></strong>The RAMBo board is designed and built to sustain considerable heat. It does not need any cooling even if the printer is in an enclosure.</div>
<div class="hd--html"> </div>


Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)

<p>Trinamic drivers on the EINSY board can detect skipped steps and prevent layer shifting caused by a nozzle crash. <strong>It works only in the Normal mode (not in the Stealth mode).</strong> The thresholds for crash detection are set for higher speeds because layer shifting usually happens when the extruder moves quickly between objects and hits a piece of a curled-up print. </p>
<div class="warning-callout">Crash detection doesn’t work if you push the extruder in the direction of its movement. That’s not a real-world scenario and it usually never happens during printing.</div>
<h3>How to fix it</h3>
<p>When you find out that the crash detection does not work, it is most likely going to be a hardware problem within the printer, which is quite easy to fix. Simply follow these instructions:</p>
<h3>Power mode</h3>
<p>Make sure that the printer is running in <strong>Normal mode, not Stealth mode</strong> where crash detection is not available<strong>.</strong> The current mode can be checked in the LCD Menu - Settings - Mode [Stealth/Normal]. For more information on Power modes, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/power-modes_2213">Power-modes</a>.</p>
<h3>Rods and bearings</h3>
<p>Clean the smooth rods with a dry paper towel. Then apply a little bit of lubricant on the smooth rods.</p>
<p>If you feel the heatbed or the extruder is not moving smoothly when pushing it by hand, you can dismount the Y or X-axis, remove the bearings from their smooth rods, and lubricate them on the inside. Be careful not to damage the bearings when inserting the smooth rod back.</p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">Please refer to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">this guide</a> for more information about how to apply the lubricant.</div>
</div>
<h3>Check the tension of your belts</h3>
<p>Make sure that your printer's belts and pulleys are properly tightened and that the belts cannot jump over the pulleys. If you have an MK3 or MK3S, check the <strong>Belt Status</strong> numbers via <em>LCD menu -&gt; Support -&gt; Belt Status</em>. The values should not be under 240 and above 300, but there is no single ideal value. The number does not represent any quantity.</p>
<ul>
<li>If your value is <strong>under</strong> (or close to) 240, you need to <strong>loosen</strong> the belt</li>
<li>If your value <strong>over</strong> (or close to) 300 -&gt; you need to <strong>tighten</strong> the belt</li>
<li>The values are updated every time you run the Selftest.</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">For more information on adjusting the belt tension, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk3-mk3s-mk3s-mk4_112380">Adjusting belt tension (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+/MK4)</a>.</div>
<p>The MK2.5, MK2/S, and lower models do not have the belt status option. The clue we can give you is that the belt should sound roughly like a low bass string when plucked. It should be possible to pinch the two sides together with your thumb and index finger, but you should feel a little bit of resistance.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The belts can stretch and get more lose over time or during shipping (in the case of an assembled printer).</div>
<h3>Check your X/Y axis motors and pulleys</h3>
<p>Make sure the pulleys are not spinning around the motor shaft. The X and Y motor have to be tightened in the motor mount, the <strong>pulley</strong> has to be secured on the motor shaft and aligned with the pulley on the opposite end, and the pulley has to move freely. <strong>Both grub screws</strong> need to be tight, one of them has to be tightened against the flat part of the motor shaft. A loose pulley is usually the main cause of staircase layer shifts.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/motor-shaft.png" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p>Both pulleys on both axes also have to be <strong>aligned</strong>, meaning the motor pulley has to be well <strong>centered</strong>. The belt should not travel from right to left while the pulley is turning.</p>
<h4>Connectors</h4>
<p>After inspecting the motors, open the einsyRAMBO case and re-seat the connectors for the motors, so you are sure they are plugged in properly.</p>
<h3>Print geometry and settings</h3>
<p>Objects with <strong>overhangs</strong> are generally harder to print. Some overhangs might even warp upwards during the print, and the nozzle might crash into them. The same can happen in some cases if you choose <strong>too small infill percentage</strong> when slicing the 3D model.</p>
<p>To prevent printing overhangs, you can cut the object (check out our article on the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779">Cut tool</a>). You can also try to increase the print fan speed or increase the Z-hop distance in PrusaSlicer. Print fan speed in <em>Filament settings -&gt; Cooling</em> and Z-hop distance in <em>Printer Settings -&gt; Extruder 1.</em></p>
<h3>None of this solved the problem?</h3>
<p>No worries, at least you have checked some of the most important parts of the printer, and you can now be sure they are OK. Please try to print one of the G-codes that were on the SD card when you first used it. If you have deleted them, download them again at <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Prusa3D/collections/3195">Printables.com</a>.</p>
<p>You may also try to <strong>toggle the Crash Detection off</strong> (LCD Menu - Settings - Crash. det. [on/off] or, during the print LCD menu - Tune - Crash Detection). It also usually helps if you <strong>slow down the print speed </strong>(in the PrusaSlicer or during the print by turning the knob counterclockwise).</p>


Crash detection

<p>The Original Prusa magnetic heatbed is designed to hold a removable double-sided flexible spring-steel sheet, designed specifically for easy removal of printed objects from the print surface.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="400"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-398x400.jpg 398w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-598x600.jpg 598w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-768x771.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="402"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center;"><em>Satin Sheet (color may differ from yours)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center;"><em>The underside of a printed object</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The Satin sheet further expands our line-up of print sheets. In terms of printing properties, the Satin sheet sits between the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/smooth-steel-sheet_196550">smooth</a> and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/textured-steel-sheet_196534">textured</a> variants. Its fine powder-coated surface with a lightly textured matte finish offers an optimal level of adhesion, especially when printing PLA and PETG materials. It is fully compatible with a wide range of common and less-common filaments, such as ABS, ASA, FlexFill 98A, Polycarbonate (PC), and more.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Main attributes</h3>
<ul>
<li>Suitable for both PLA and PETG</li>
<li>Lightly textured surface finish</li>
<li>Double-sided! Both sides can be used interchangeably.</li>
<li>Prints automatically detach after the sheet cools down</li>
<li>Wide range of supported filaments, including advanced materials (PC Blend, Polypropylene…)</li>
<li>Easy maintenance and good adhesion qualities</li>
</ul>
<h3>Considerations</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Never clean the sheet with acetone! It will deteriorate the surface.</strong></li>
<li>Keep the sheet clean! Any grease will greatly reduce adhesion.</li>
<li>Live Z value needs to be readjusted if you switch sheets. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</li>
<li>Not scratch-resistant!!! Do not use metal spatulas etc. to remove the prints. We recommend printing a plastic spatula, like <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/28337-scraper-for-build-plate-version-2">this one.</a></li>
<li>Small PLA prints may require a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969#brim">Brim</a>.</li>
<li>Apply a glue stick when printing with TPU or TPEE.</li>
<li>Prints from ASA and PC Blend have a lower adhesion on satin compared to on the smooth sheet. Prints often require brim and/or shield (skirt <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969#skirt">"Draft shield" around the object</a> is a feature in PS 2.3)</li>
<li>PC blend works perfectly with the clean satin sheet, however, it might cause wear after some time. <strong>If you print PC often, a glue stick separation layer is recommended to prevent potential damage to the sheet.</strong></li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">Consumable parts, such as print sheets (satin, smooth, textured, etc.) are not covered by warranty as the coatings will diminish over time. Unless failure has occurred due to a defect in materials or workmanship, cosmetic damage, including but not limited to scratches, dents, cracks, or other cosmetic damage is also not covered by the warranty. Only defective sheets on arrival are covered by warranty.</div>
<h3>Maintenance</h3>
<ul>
<li>Attracts fingerprints - A good indication of where your sheet is dirty/greasy and that you need to clean it. Clean with ~90% IPA when the sheet is cold. If ~90% IPA is not sufficient, clean with dishwasher soap. <strong>Do not leave the sheet wet!</strong> It has an anti-corrosion layer but is still not recommended.</li>
<li>Never clean with acetone! Same issue as with the textured sheet (surface deteriorates)</li>
<li>Some types of paper towels may leave traces on the sheet (fiber pieces).&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h3>Filaments</h3>
<p>We have done a lot of testing and compiled our results for you to use. To easily see how to prepare your sheet for any filament type, please <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">see our Material table</a>.</p>
<h3>Prints don’t stick</h3>
<p>If your print surface is perfectly clean and all grease has been removed by wiping it with a paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol ~90% and if the first layer height is set up perfectly, yet your print still does not adhere reliably to the print surface, check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</p>


Satin steel sheet

<p>The Original Prusa magnetic heatbed is designed to hold a <strong>removable double-sided flexible spring-steel sheet</strong>, designed specifically for easy removal of printed objects from the print surface.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 409px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 392px;">
<td style="width: 48.8106%; height: 392px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="400" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; height: 392px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-398x400.jpg 398w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-598x600.jpg 598w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-768x771.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="402" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center; height: 17px;"><em>Textured Sheet (color may differ from yours)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><em>The underside of a printed object</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The powder-coated sheet, also referred to as the <em>textured sheet</em>, has its surface covered with a special polymer (Ultem PEI) to ensure perfect adhesion. These have been used in our print farm for many years and are perfect when printing a lot of <em>high-adhesion</em> filaments like PETG, and are also ideal for printing flexible filaments (TPU). It has a rougher texture than the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/satin-steel-sheet_196526">Satin sheet</a> and is more durable with some filaments than the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/smooth-steel-sheet_196550">smooth sheet</a> .</p>
<div class="note-callout">The exact color depicted in the e-shop and our knowledge base may differ from yours. All sheets are checked and verified being within tight specifications. These specifications are both considering the manufacturing method and the sheet's function (adhesion and durability used with certain material types), but not the cosmetic aspect of the sheet or pattern left on printed parts. <strong>We can not guarantee the pattern left on your printed objects will match perfectly from sheet to sheet.</strong></div>
<h3>Main attributes</h3>
<ul>
<li>Textured finish</li>
<li>Double-sided! Both sides can be used interchangeably.</li>
<li>Thinner than its smooth counterpart.</li>
<li>Ideal for extensive printing of PETG, CPE, TPEE/TPU.</li>
<li>No need for glue stick with flexible filaments (TPU/TPEE)</li>
<li>Prints automatically detach after the sheet cools down</li>
<li>To be cleaned with ~90% IPA or denaturd alcohol when cold. <em>Do not use anything made for skin!</em> It can contain oils/sugars that ruin adhesion!</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">See our blog article on <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-print-on-a-powder-coated-sheet_30178/">how to print on a powder-coated sheet</a>.</div>
<h3>Considerations</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Never clean the sheet with acetone! It will deteriorate the surface!</strong></li>
<li>Never apply ABS juice to it!</li>
<li>Prints from ASA, ABS, Nylon and PC Blend require the application of a glue stick (separation layer).</li>
<li>Live Z value needs to be readjusted if you switch sheets. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</li>
<li>Not scratch-resistant!!! Do not use metal spatulas etc. to remove the prints. We recommend printing a plastic spatula, like <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/28337-scraper-for-build-plate-version-2">this one.</a></li>
<li>Small PLA prints may require a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969#brim">Brim</a>.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">Consumable parts, such as print sheets (satin, smooth, textured, etc.) are not covered by warranty as the coatings will diminish over time. Unless failure has occurred due to a defect in materials or workmanship, cosmetic damage, including but not limited to scratches, dents, cracks, or other cosmetic damage is also not covered by the warranty. Only defective sheets on arrival are covered by warranty.</div>
<h3>Filaments</h3>
<p>We have done a lot of testing and compiled our results for you to use. To easily see how to prepare your sheet for any filament type, please <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">see our Material table</a>.</p>
<h3>Prints don’t stick</h3>
<p>If your print surface is perfectly clean and all grease has been removed by wiping it with a paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol ~90%. Also, make sure <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">the first layer height is set up perfectly.</a></p>
<p>If your prints still do not adhere reliably to the print surface, try to wash the sheet in warm water (not hot!) with a few drops of liquid dish soap (not hand soap). This should not be done often, and <strong>do not submerge the sheet completely in hot water</strong>, bu this can clean away oils/sugars that are not affected by rubbing alcohol. However, the textured sheet is not water-proof so consider this a last resort which <strong>should not be done often</strong>.</p>
<p>For more info on how to deal with adhesion issues, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</p>


Textured steel sheet

<p>Prusa printers are well known for being very silent, even in the standard mode. But actually, our printers also offer an option for even quieter operation. In the instructions below you will learn how to set your printer to stealth mode.</p>
<h3>MINI and MINI+</h3>
<p>The MINI/MINI+ is equipped with the TMC2209 motor drivers, where after multiple tests <strong>we have enabled StealthChop (Stealth mode) by default for X, Y, and Z-axis.</strong> The name Stealth mode comes from the MK3/S/+ and basically enables the same settings on its TMC drivers (StealthChop).</p>
<p>On the MINI+, <strong>the only exception is the extruder motor</strong>. Mainly due to the Bowden tube between the extruder and print head, it performs better and more reliably with the SpreadCycle enabled (that's the other mode of the TMC motor drivers).</p>
<p></p>
<h3>MK3 and MK3S</h3>
<h4>Normal vs. Stealth mode</h4>
<p>MK3 series printers offer two print modes. <strong>Normal mode</strong> is required for the detection of lost steps (shifted layers), while still being quieter than the silent mode on MK2/S. There is also the <strong>Stealth mode,</strong> which utilizes Trinamic StealthChop technology. This makes the printer almost inaudible where the print cooling fan is the noisiest part of the printer.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Stealth mode</strong> does not provide Crash detection (lost steps cannot be detected).</div>
<p><strong>These modes can be switched depending on the situation:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>When idle:
<p><em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; [Normal / Stealth mode]</em></p>
</li>
<li>During a print:
<p><em>LCD Menu -&gt; Tune -&gt; [Normal / Stealth mode]</em></p>
</li>
</ol>
<h3>MK2/S, MK2.5 and MK2.5S</h3>
<h4>Power vs. Silent mode</h4>
<p><strong>The silent mode</strong> uses less current and makes the printer quieter but less powerful. <strong>Hi-power mode</strong> is great for very large (over 200 gram) prints. It is also recommended for newly assembled kits before you fine-tune everything. If you experience lost steps (shifted layers) or if you’re manually adjusting the speed of printing to more than 100%, use <strong>Hi-power mode</strong>.</p>
<h4>Auto power mode</h4>
<p>There is also an <strong>Auto Power Mode</strong>. This is basically a compromise between silent and hi-power modes. The stepper currents depend on the Z height. The current starts low when the Z height is minimal. And it increases slowly as the object is printed.&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>These modes can be changed in two ways:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>When idle:
<p><em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; [Hi-power mode / Silent mode /&nbsp;Auto power mode]</em></p>
</li>
<li>During a print:
<p><em>LCD Menu -&gt; Tune -&gt; [Hi-power mode / Silent mode / Auto power mode]</em></p>
</li>
</ol>

Power-modes

<p>Food-safe 3D printing is not as simple as it might seem. Here we outline some of the challenges. We also recommend you to check out <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-make-food-grade-3d-printed-models_40666/">our blog article</a> where we present our research of the process.</p>
<h3>Materials</h3>
<p>PETG, and sometimes PLA, are hailed in the 3D printing community for being chemically neutral and as practically food-safe materials. Your soda plastic bottles, food containers, and salad boxes are made from PET, a close relative of PETG.</p>
<p>The problem, with all 3d-printed objects, in general, is that they are made from layers. The grooves in between those layers are a seedbed for bacteria as they are almost impossible to clean properly, and will hold residue.</p>
<p>Another issue is color-pigment and unknown additives. These might not be as neutral to your body as pure plastic. It is also hard to say exactly how much there is of these substances. Natural/pure PETG-filament without any color, would be your best bet, but it's hard to say exactly what is in it. Some filaments are FDA-approved, but often with an asterisk like "Approved except red, orange, and pink". In <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-make-food-grade-3d-printed-models_40666/">our blog article</a> we map out which of our Prusament filaments you can and can not use.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">There are, however, food-safe certified epoxy coatings that you can apply to your printed model.</div>
<h3>Application</h3>
<p><strong>Waterbottle, no. Cookiecutter, maybe.</strong> There should not be much problem to 3d-print your own custom cookie-cutters, but as the layer-lines will collect food, bacteria will grow, so this will be something you want to throw away after some use.</p>
<p>The same goes for soap and detergent if you think you can just wash it. The layer lines can absorb these chemicals, which later can be released into something you want to consume.</p>
<h3>(M)SLA resin printers have practically no lines. Can't I use this?</h3>
<p>Again, no. There can be uncured resin and other contaminants on and in the print. There are bio-compatible resins out there, but these are highly specialized and very expensive. They also rely on special considerations when curing and in post-processing.</p>
<h3>Nozzle</h3>
<p>The nozzle you use also makes a difference. The standard brass nozzle is <strong>not considered food-safe</strong>, as it wears out. It is a consumable. Where does the worn material go? Into your print. Therefore, a soft brass nozzle just won't do. You would need a stainless-steel or a titanium nozzle if you are even considering printing with food in mind.</p>
<h3>So what can I do?</h3>
<p>There are epoxy resin coating-materials out there that have been deemed suitable. There is also the option of using 3d-prints simply as a mold with suitable materials and manufacturing methods. We have done some research and you can read more about food-safe 3D printing in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-make-food-grade-3d-printed-models_40666/">this blog article</a>.</p>
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
<p>It is theoretically possible, but special preparations and post-processing is required. If you really want to, it is not as simple as getting some PETG, and printing what you want. Do proper research, so you do not put anyone's health or safety at risk!</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>We do not recommend using 3d-prints as food-containers etc!</strong></div>


Food safe FDM printing

<p>The Original Prusa magnetic heatbed is designed to hold a <strong>removable double-sided flexible spring-steel sheet</strong>, designed specifically for easy removal of printed objects from the print surface.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><em><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="400"></em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><em><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-398x400.jpg 398w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-598x600.jpg 598w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-768x771.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="402"></em></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center;"><em>Smooth sheet (color may differ from yours)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center;"><em>The underside of a printed object</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Both sides of the smooth sheet are covered by a sticker made from PEI plastic. This is the same time-tested surface type that was used on the older MK2S printers. This sheet provides excellent adhesion with most filaments and geometry. So much in fact, that some filaments, like TPU and PETG, will adhere too much and can damage the sheet when removed. That is why we also have available the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/textured-steel-sheet_196534">Textured sheet</a> and the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/satin-steel-sheet_196526">Satin sheet</a>.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Main attributes</h3>
<ul>
<li>Ideal for printing PLA, HIPS, ABS/ASA, composite materials (metal/wood).</li>
<li>Prints with sharp corners or a small first-layer area are less likely to detach.</li>
<li>Scratch-resistant. Can be used with a metal spatula, however, cosmetic scratches may appear.</li>
<li>Double-sided! Both sides can be used interchangeably.</li>
<li>Compatible with most types of filament.</li>
<li>Thicker than the Textured and Satin sheet.</li>
<li>Little to no surface preparation, (other than cleaning).</li>
<li>Clean with ~90% Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or denatured alcohol.</li>
<li>Can be cleaned with acetone, but do not overuse it (1-2 times per month).</li>
<li>ABS juice can be applied to the sheet.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Considerations</h3>
<ul>
<li>Live Z value needs to be readjusted if you switch sheet-type. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</li>
<li>Some filaments, like PETG, ASA, ABS and PC Blend, may need a protective separation layer, like gluestick applied thinly before printing! See our extensive <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">Material table.</a>.</li>
<li>Keep the sheet clean! Any grease will greatly reduce adhesion.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Maintenance</h3>
<ul>
<li>Clean with ~90% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) or denatured alcohol when cold. Apply on unscented paper towel and rub the sheet down. <em>Do not use anything made for skin!</em> It can contain oils that ruin adhesion!</li>
<li>1-2 times a month it can be cleaned the same way with acetone if IPA cleaning is not sufficient.</li>
<li>After extended use (1-2 years) the surface can smooth out further, which affects adhesion. Using high-grit sandpaper (600-1000), the PEI can be revived by light sanding, bring fresh PEI to the surface. The sheet will have a very light texture after this treatment.</li>
<li>The smooth PEI film on the steel sheet <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/replacing-the-pei-sheet-on-the-mk3s-mk3-mk2-5s-mk2-5_23920">can be replaced in case of extensive damage</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Bubbles underneath the PEI</h4>
<p>Over time, you might see some small bubbles underneath the PEI. This is nothing serious. These bubbles usually do not affect print quality and will disappear after a few days or weeks. Here are 2 tips that will make these bubbles disappear faster:</p>
<ol>
<li>Swap the side of the steel sheet you were printing on. This will speed up the "recovery" of the PEI surface.&nbsp;<br />
Bubbles appear around the spot where you print the most (center of the sheet), most often underneath the corners of your printed parts.</li>
<li>When slicing the models, vary your placement on the print surface. Don't use just one spot i.e. the center.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Dent in the PEI</h4>
<p>Sometimes, there might be a small dimple or dent in the smooth PEI layer when you first unpack the steel sheet. Don't worry, just flip the sheet over and use the other side. Thanks to the heat of the heatbed, the dent will disappear by itself after some time (about 1-2 days of print time).</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; height: 245px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 227px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 227px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/bubbles.png" alt="" width="400" height="223"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 227px; text-align: right;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dentonpei.png" alt="" width="305" height="223"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: left;"><em>Bubbles under PEI sheet</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 18px; text-align: right;"><em>Dents in PEI</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout">Consumable parts, such as print sheets (satin, smooth, textured, etc.) are not covered by warranty as the coatings will diminish over time. Unless failure has occurred due to a defect in materials or workmanship, cosmetic damage, including but not limited to scratches, dents, cracks, or other cosmetic damage is also not covered by the warranty. Only defective sheets on arrival are covered by warranty.</div>
<h3>Filaments</h3>
<p>We have done a lot of testing and compiled our results for you to use. To easily see how to prepare your sheet for any filament type, please <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">see our Material table</a>.</p>
<h3>Prints don’t stick</h3>
<p>If your print surface is perfectly clean and all grease has been removed by wiping it with a paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol 90% and if the first layer height is set up perfectly, yet your print still does not adhere reliably to the print surface, check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</p>


Smooth Steel Sheet

<p>The optical filament sensor detects the presence of a filament and also its movement. Make sure you are running <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">the latest firmware</a> since new versions offer a higher-frequency sensing algorithm and improved reliability.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you want to test your filament sensor, visit <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/testing-safety-features-mk3-mk3s_2079">MK3 safety features - how to test them</a>.</div>
<h3>Running out of filament</h3>
<p>Running out of filament <strong>will no longer cause a print failure</strong>. If you run out of filament, the printer will automatically pause the print, unload the remaining few centimeters of the material from the heatbreak, and move the X-carriage away from the print. You will be prompted to replace the spool and insert a new filament.</p>
<p><strong>The printer will guide you on how to resume printing safely:&nbsp;</strong></p>
<ol>
<li><em>"Please press the knob to unload the filament"</em> = Press the knob to unload the remaining few centimeters of the filament.</li>
<li><em>"Repeat unloading filament?</em>&nbsp; <strong>[]</strong> = If everything went well, press <strong>[Yes]</strong>. If not, then press&nbsp;<strong>[No].</strong>&nbsp;The printer will lock the x-axis motor and will allow you to open the extruder idler to clear the remains of the filament manually.
<ol>
<li>To open the extruder idler, simply undo <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly-textile-sleeve_71288#78248=">STEP 16</a> in the E-axis assembly.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Then, you can use the bundled pliers to remove the filament remains. If some of it got stuck in the PTFE tube, simply push it out with a new filament.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Close the extruder idler as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly-textile-sleeve_71288#78248=">STEP 16</a>, and you will be able to continue.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li><em>"Insert filament and press the knob"</em> = Make sure to insert the same type of filament, cut the tip of the filament properly (check out the photo below for the reference), insert the filament and press the knob.&nbsp;<br />
<img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/filamenttip.png"></li>
<li><em>"Changed correctly?"</em> <strong>[Yes/Filament not loaded/Color not clear]</strong> = If everything went fine and the new filament is coming out nicely (and has the right color), simply press <strong>[Yes]</strong>. If you think that the filament was not loaded properly, press <strong>[Filament not loaded],</strong>&nbsp;which will push through the same amount of filament as before. If the color is not clear, then press <strong>[Color not clear]</strong>, this way it will push through only a bit of filament.</li>
</ol>
<h3>False sensor readings and debugging&nbsp;</h3>
<p>There is a couple of common causes for false sensor readings. You can avoid most of them by following these two rules:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>Keep the surroundings of the filament sensor clean</li>
<li>Avoid "extreme" light conditions near the printer</li>
</ul>
<h4>Proper setup &amp; Clean surroundings&nbsp;</h4>
<ol>
<li>Make sure that the filament sensor is inserted correctly and the connectors are firmly attached.<br />
<img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/filament-sensor.png"></li>
<li>Make sure that there is no <strong>dust on and around the sensor.&nbsp;</strong>If you believe that there might be some, you can clean it using compressed air. There is a hole in the idler door precisely for this purpose.&nbsp;<br />
<img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/filament-sensor-hole.png"></li>
<li>When you print the printable parts yourself, make sure that the extruder parts are printed in&nbsp;<strong>BLACK.</strong> The filament sensor is calibrated to operate in a black-colored environment only. Otherwise, it might be giving false readings.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Extreme light conditions&nbsp;</h4>
<p>If you’re printing in <strong>extreme light conditions</strong> (e.g., direct sunlight, extreme LED lighting) you might also encounter some false alarms. If that happens, please consider turning the filament sensor off for that specific print in <strong>LCD Menu - Settings - Fil. sensor</strong> [on/ <strong>off].</strong></p>
<p>We would also strongly suggest finding a different placement of the printer or changing the surrounding lighting conditions</p>
<h4>Exotic filaments</h4>
<p>Some translucent filaments cast more light on the sensor than others, which can result in weird behavior. Certain colors like ivory, matte white, or lime green can also cause false alarms. If you’re printing with any of these filaments and you’re getting a lot of false alarms, <strong>consider turning the sensor off</strong> in <strong>LCD Menu - Settings - Fil. sensor</strong> [on/<strong>off</strong>].</p>


Filament sensor MK3 (non-S)

<p>One of the best things about getting your very first 3D printer kit is the assembly. Building your first 3D printer may take some time, however, it's <strong>the perfect way</strong> to get to know the machine in detail. Not only that, but it's also a lot of fun to put the whole machine together.</p>
<p>The length of the assembly depends on the type of the printer and generally takes several hours, complicated setups (e.g. MK3S + MMU2S) can day or two. However it is not a race, so take your time, follow the instructions and <strong>enjoy the construction!&nbsp;</strong></p>
<h2>Our manuals&nbsp;</h2>
<ul>
<li>Each <strong>kit</strong> comes with a printed assembly manual (<strong>MMU2S assembly manual is only available online</strong>). If you would like to see the photos in full resolution, you can always visit <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">our online manuals</a>. Choose the language and product you are assembling. Pay attention to your <strong>printer version</strong> (e.g., MK3 assembly differs from the MK3S).</li>
<li>Our manuals are written in&nbsp;<strong>English, Czech, Spanish, Italian, German, French, and Polish.&nbsp;</strong></li>
<li>We try to make our manuals easy to understand so that truly everyone, from children to elderly persons can enjoy our printers. However, if you struggle with any chapter, do not hesitate to contact our support at <a href="mailto:info@prusa3d.com">info@prusa3d.com</a>.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2>Common assembly errors&nbsp;</h2>
<ol>
<li>Do not rush with the assembly as going fast through usually means that some mistakes are made in the process. And it's more time consuming to fix them than doing everything properly right from the start.</li>
<li>Once you see anything labeled in&nbsp;<span data-hd-color="rgb(192, 80, 77)"><strong>RED,</strong></span>&nbsp;always double-check that you followed these instructions correctly. These are usually essential steps in the whole assembly. Not following them might cause future problems, delays, and in the worst-case scenario even damage to the product.<br />
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-600x389.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-800x519.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-300x195.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-768x498.jpg 768w" width="674" height="437"></li>
</ol>
<h2>How hard can it be?</h2>
<ol>
<li>The complete assembly is quite straightforward if you follow the manual precisely.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Each chapter is labeled with a&nbsp;<strong>level of difficulty.&nbsp;</strong>That should give you an idea of what you can expect.</li>
<li><strong>Don't be afraid! Tens of thousands of users made it so you can make it too!</strong></li>
</ol>


<p>All of our products are covered under warranty. As we are based in Prague, Czech Republic, a member state of the European Union, <strong>European and Czech law apply</strong>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Rest assured that our Technical support is always available to help you out under any circumstances, even if the issue is not covered under warranty. Feel free to contact us at <a href="mailto:info@prusa3d.com">info@prusa3d.com</a>, or via Online chat (right bottom corner in the online store).</div>
<h2>Warranty periods</h2>
<h3>Products purchased as a kit (printers, upgrades, accessories, parts)</h3>
<p>When purchasing detached pieces or a kit, the warranty applies to every part separately. Still, feel free to contact our support if you encounter any issues during or after the assembly.</p>
<p>Warranty periods for the EU region and the rest of the world: </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>2-year warranty </strong>for consumers from the EU, Lichtenstein, Switzerland, Norway, and Iceland</li>
<li><strong>1-year warranty</strong> for enterprises from the EU </li>
<li><strong>1-year warranty</strong> for the rest of the world (any country not mentioned above) </li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-offset-key="256:0" data-slate-fragment="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">On a kit, although individual components are covered by the warranty, it</span> <span data-offset-key="256:1"><strong data-slate-leaf="true">does not</strong></span> <span data-offset-key="256:3"><strong data-slate-leaf="true">include repair service or shipping-cost</strong></span> <span data-offset-key="256:4">for our in-house technicians.</span></div>
<p>This warranty is<strong> voided by:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Any damages caused by improper assembly of the product.</li>
<li>Any damage caused by improper use, maintenance or operation of the printer.</li>
<li>Any damage caused by long-term lack of maintenance.</li>
<li>Using the printer in improper conditions (temperature, dustiness...).</li>
<li>Upgrades or add-ons that are not officially supported.</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">For proper guidelines, always refer to <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">our assembly manuals</a> and our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printer-handbooks_125045"><strong>3D Printing handbook</a></strong> or simply contact our official support.</div>
<p></p>
<h3><strong>Pre-assembled products </strong></h3>
<p>With the purchase of a fully assembled printer or any accessory, the warranty applies to the assembly, as well. Our support team is ready to assist you with any issues that may appear.</p>
<p>Warranty periods for the EU region and the rest of the world: </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>2-year warranty </strong>for consumers from the EU, Lichtenstein, Switzerland, Norway, and Iceland</li>
<li><strong>1-year warranty</strong> for enterprises from the EU </li>
<li><strong>1-year warranty</strong> for the rest of the world (any country not mentioned above) </li>
</ul>
<p>This warranty is<strong> voided by:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Any damage caused by improper use, maintenance or operation of the printer.</li>
<li>Any damage caused by long-term lack of maintenance.</li>
<li>Using the printer in improper conditions (temperature, dustiness...)</li>
<li>Using upgrades (be it hardware or software) or add-ons that are not officially supported</li>
</ul>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout">The warranty does not cover normal, expected wear and tear caused by using the printer for its intended purpose. If a user error is found during a warranty repair, the parts and return shipping will be charged!</div>
</div>
<h2><strong>How to handle a warranty case </strong></h2>
<p>Any warranty case must be submitted to our official support channels (chat or email). In case the product was bought from a reseller, contact us first so that we can help you diagnose the problem, then turn to your reseller for spare parts if needed.</p>
<p><strong>Documentation needed</strong> for a warranty case:</p>
<ol>
<li>The number of the original invoice containing the product (and the product's serial number).</li>
<li>A brief description of the problem along with the clear evidence of its presence (e.g., photos or videos)</li>
</ol>
<h4>Limited warranty on consumables</h4>
<p>Some parts of our products inevitably "get used up" over time. For these parts, specific conditions apply, unless failure has occurred due to a defect in materials or workmanship.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 187px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 87px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 87px;">
<ul>
<li>Special PA Nylon steel sheet</li>
<li>Satin spring steel sheet</li>
<li>Powder-coated spring steel sheet</li>
<li>Smooth PEI covered spring steel sheet</li>
<li>Smooth PEI covered heatbed (MK2S)</li>
<li>Nozzles</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 87px;">The warranty does not apply to wear and tear.</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 50px;">
<ul>
<li>SL1 exposure display</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 50px;">500 hours of printing</td>
</tr>
<tr style="background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%;">
<ul>
<li>SL1S SPEED exposure display</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%;">2000 hours of printing</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 50px;">
<ul>
<li>FEP film</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 50px;">10 print jobs</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout">In case we have provided a <strong>free replacement</strong> part, the warranty <strong>does not reset</strong>. In compliance with European and Czech law, the original warranty period still applies.</div>
<div>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">In case you have sent a product back to us for repair, the warranty duration is "paused" during the time it is on the way back to us, in repair, and on its way back to you. In other words, <strong>the warranty is extended by the number of days</strong> that the product is gone for repair.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout">We do not have any agreement with any third-party Extended Warranty provider. If you are using such services, refer to the Terms and Conditions of your contract to see if and how it applies.</div>
</div>
</div>

Warranty

<p>All of our printers come with an instructional Handbook. This is not merely a collection of tips and tricks but <strong>is the instruction manual for your machine.</strong> They cover everything in regard to your printer, from setup, calibration, slicing, printing, and troubleshooting. <strong>All handbooks are available in a range of languages.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/08b0ada8ee134c8e05cf28859786f189.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Printer Handbooks (review)" alt="" width="600" height="599" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>The Handbooks are structured so you will not be thrown into the deep end of 3D printing, but will gradually learn how to best utilize your machine. Early on it even covers a glossary, as this technology brings with it a lot of its own terms and definitions, which are important to know, and progress from there.</p>
<p>This <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/">knowledge platform</a> is an extension of these handbooks. For convenience, you will always be able to find the latest revision of the handbooks from this article.</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Downloads</h2>
<p>Click your machine below to be redirected to the section of your printer. Download the handbook, in the desired language, from the left column.</p>
<h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">FFF printers</span></h3>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk4">Original Prusa MK4</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mini">Original Prusa MINI &amp; MINI+</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/xl">Original Prusa XL</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mmu3">Original Prusa MMU3</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk3s">Original Prusa MK3S &amp; MK3S+</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk2-5s">Original Prusa MK2.5S</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk3">Original Prusa MK3</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk2-5">Original Prusa MK2.5</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk2s">Original Prusa MK2S</a></strong></span></h4>
<h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">MSLA/SLA printers</span></h3>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/sl1s">Original Prusa SL1S SPEED</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/sl1">Original Prusa SL1</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/cw1s">Original Prusa CW1S</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/cw1">Original Prusa CW1</a></strong></span></h4>

Printer Handbooks

<p>The printer can fully recover from a complete loss of power without the need for batteries or a UPS. A special sensor detects mains voltage, and in case of an interruption, it immediately shuts down the heatbed and extruder heating, leaving enough power in the capacitors to store the position and lift the print head away from the print. In case of a very short power failure, the printer will attempt to continue printing immediately without waiting for user interaction.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you want to test the power panic on MK3/S/+, check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/testing-safety-features-mk3-mk3s_2079">Testing safety features (MK3/MK3S)</a>.</div>
<div class="warning-callout">Keep in mind that power panic doesn't work if you use the on/off switch on the PSU</div>
<h3>Resuming the print</h3>
<p>When the power comes back, the printer will give you an option to continue the print. Keep in mind that during extended periods without power, the bed will cool down and the printed object can detach itself from the sheet plate. So, before resuming the process, check the following: </p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure that all objects are still attached to the steel sheet plate.</li>
<li>Follow the instructions on the LCD screen and resume the print.</li>
<li>Stay with the printer for about 10 minutes and make sure that the printing process continues without any problems.</li>
</ol>


Power Panic

<ul>
<li>Loading filament (updated chapter)</li>
<li>LCD screen (updated chapter)</li>
<li>Beeper settings (new chapter)</li>
<li>Language settings (new chapter)</li>
<li>MMU 2.0 (new chapter)</li>
<li>Slic3r PE (updated chapter)</li>
<li>Filament sensor (updated chapter)</li>
<li>Updating firmware (updated chapter)</li>
<li>Linearity correction (new chapter)</li>
</ul>


3.04

<p>Printer firmware update (3.7.2)</p>
<ul>
<li>Protection against multiple power panics (for MK3)</li>
<li>Autonomous fan self-test</li>
<li>Incorrect firmware flashing protection</li>
<li>Min. temp safety trigger</li>
<li>Enforced fan check</li>
<li>Filament runout delay fix</li>
<li>Extruder position after fan error fix</li>
<li>Text format correction on Live adjust Z screen</li>
<li>Display target temperature at PID calibration screen</li>
</ul>
<p>MMU2S Unit firmware update (v1.0.5)</p>
<ul>
<li>This fw version improves mmu2 unit function when used with MK3S and MK2.5S printers with IR sensor. Especially T-code filament loading phase reliability was improved. It is now possible to resume print after MMU load fail detected by printer also by MMU button.</li>
</ul>


3.7.2 (1.0.5)

<ul>
<li>Steel sheet profiles (<a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/firmware-3-8-0-final-for-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">more info about settings</a>)</li>
<li>Nozzle diameter setup</li>
<li>Preliminary checks</li>
<li>Firmware onscreen notification</li>
<li>Revised sound warnings</li>
<li>Heatbed noise at 110 V (60 Hz)</li>
<li>Crash detection fixes</li>
<li>Addition of the ASA material</li>
</ul>


3.8.0

<ul>
<li>First layer calibration using multiple filament types (PLA, PET, ASA, ABS, HIPS, PP, FLEX)</li>
<li>Repeated First layer calibration settings added</li>
<li>Fan error on Octoprint bug fixed</li>
<li>New Live Adjust Z shortcut (Long press of the rotation knob - available only between 0-2 mm of print height)</li>
<li>Move Z shortcut adjustment - not possible during the print)</li>
<li>Translations corrections</li>
<li>Other bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.8.1

<p><strong>This is a major release, please, update!</strong>Stats: 409 commits, 108 pull requests, 66 closed issues, cooperation with 14 developers</p>
<ul>
<li>Linear Advance 1.5</li>
<li>Automatic E-jerk conversion</li>
<li>Laser filament sensor sensitivity fix</li>
<li>Screen brightness adjustment</li>
<li>New G-code files sorting</li>
<li>Toggle and Translations</li>
<li>Show current Z offset in reset dialog before first layer calibration</li>
<li>Unknown Z coordinate displayed</li>
<li>Safer moves in Z-axis, if the position is unknown</li>
<li>Heating disabled during MBL</li>
<li>MINTEMP value lowered</li>
<li>MINTEMP error differentiated</li>
<li>Flickering “Statistics” screen fixed</li>
<li>Tone timer re-enabled</li>
<li>Nozzle crash protection improved</li>
<li>Belt test improvements</li>
<li>Decoupling XYZ relative and E relative</li>
</ul>


3.9.0

<ul>
<li>Major improvements to LA15</li>
<li>Support for parts from selected vendors</li>
<li>Ambient temperature check</li>
<li>PC Blend preheat added</li>
<li>Stack corruption fixed</li>
<li>More precise Belt test</li>
<li>Octoprint causing M112 fixed</li>
</ul>


3.9.1

<ul>
<li>XYZ calibration optimization - SuperPINDA compatibility (<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/november2020_update_original_prusa_i3_mk3splus_miniplus_mini_kit_satin_steel_sheet_40870/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">more info</a>)</li>
</ul>


3.9.2

<ul>
<li>Redesigned XYZ calibration, which is now more precise</li>
</ul>


3.9.3

<ul>
<li>New "Print from SD" menu</li>
<li>"Time Remaining" function improved</li>
<li>Community translations</li>
<li>Faster and quieter XYZ calibration</li>
<li>Optimizations for the MK3 filament sensor</li>
<li>PVB preheat preset</li>
<li>Satin sheet profiles</li>
<li>G-code "M204 T" implemented</li>
<li>Improved filament troubleshooting</li>
<li>Support for 0.8mm nozzles</li>
<li>Optimizations for print hosts (e.g. Octoprint)</li>
<li>Optimized code size and RAM usage</li>
<li>File listing adjusted for remote printing software</li>
<li>Z offset during M600 reverted</li>
<li>Factory reset menu extended</li>
</ul>


3.10.0

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<ul>
<li>New debugging functions &amp; crash analysis tools</li>
<li>A rare memory bug debugged and fixed</li>
<li>Long-Press action fixed</li>
<li>Move auto reporting out of the temperature ISR</li>
<li>Uint8_t used consistently for the block buffer's index</li>
<li>Arduino boards definition updated</li>
<li>Build script updated</li>
<li>Algorithm for reading SN in EEPROM improved</li>
<li>Spanish translation fixed</li>
<li>Firmware version parsing removed</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.10.1

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul>
<li>New community translations</li>
<li>Added LCD support for `äöüß` and `μ`</li>
<li>SN check fixed</li>
<li>Changes to on-screen messages</li>
<li>Known issue (LCD glitches)</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

3.11.0

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0


<ul>
<li>New thermal model protection</li>



<li>Nozzle change menu</li>



<li>NylonPA sheet profile added</li>



<li>Arc interpolation features G2/G3</li>



<li>UI improvements and fixes</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.12.0


<ul>
<li>Thermal model - important info</li>



<li>Restore correct RPM for fans</li>



<li>Set the calibration state when running M310 A</li>



<li>Max Z-coordinate during Nozzle Change</li>



<li>Message selection fix</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.12.1


<ul>
<li>Thermal model updates</li>



<li>Update on E3D Revo</li>



<li>Self Test message fixed</li>



<li>FLC procedure updated</li>



<li>List of pull requests</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa i3 MK3