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<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero.&nbsp;</strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338"></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high.&nbsp;</strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w"></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400"></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet!&nbsp;</strong>For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg"></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg"></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the&nbsp;<strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

<p></p>
<p>A 'cold pull' is a technique that allows you to clean your printer’s nozzle and hotend from any material that may be stuck or burnt inside. You can also use it to clean your hotend during your usual maintenance routine.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">If you are using Nozzle X, <strong>do not</strong> use the cold-pull method, but only use cleaning filament.</div>
<p>The cold pull should be made if your nozzle is only partially clogged, and some filament is still being extruded. If the nozzle is completely clogged, please check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">Clogged nozzle guide</a>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Our testing has found that <strong>PLA works best for a cold pull,</strong> as other filaments do not retain the tip as PLA does and they will either tear or melt too much. However, there are filaments specifically made for cleaning hotends.</div>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 270 °C.</li>
<li>While waiting for the nozzle to reach the temperature, toggle the <strong>Filament autoload</strong> off in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. autoload.</em></li>
<li>Still being in the <em>Menu</em>, go to <em>Settings</em> and choose <em>Disable steppers</em>. <em>There is no message of the steppers being disabled, but you may hear an electrical hiss disappear when selected. <strong>If you can move the bed or extruder on its axis by hand, they are disabled.</strong></em></li>
<li>Open the Extruder Idler door. <em>Unscrew the screws circled below using a 2.5 mm Allen key. On the MMU2S, unscrew the Bowden PTFE tube that connects the MMU unit with the extruder.</em></li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-600x600.jpg 600w" alt="" width="400" height="399" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-300x216.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-554x400.jpg 554w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-768x554.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-800x577.jpg 800w" alt="mmu" width="400" height="290" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="5">
<li>Once it has reached 270 °C, insert PLA filament manually into the extruder and push it in until it starts pouring out of the nozzle.</li>
<li>Stop heating by pressing <em>Cooldown</em> in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Preheat</em> (scroll all the way down), or by pressing the reset (X) button. Let the nozzle temperature drop to room temperature. <em>To speed up the cooling you can engage the print fan at full speed, from LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Fan speed -&gt; [255].</em></li>
<li>Continue manually pushing the filament down until the temperature is too low for it to melt and come out (around 170 °C for PLA). <em>The nozzle has to be filled for the cold pull to be successful.</em></li>
<li>Pick away extruded material so there is nothing obstructing the pull later on.</li>
<li>After the nozzle cools down to the room temperature, go again to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 85 °C.</li>
<li><strong>As soon as the extruder reaches this temperature</strong>, grab the filament with pliers and pull it slowly but steadily out of the extruder. <em>The filament can break inside. Make sure to pull straight upwards, not sideways. Hold the extruder with your other hand.</em></li>
<li>Don't stop until the filament is completely pulled out from the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Results</h3>
<p>On the tip of the filament that has been pulled out, you may see remnants of the previous material(s) you have been using or some burnt dirt that has settled in the nozzle (left picture). You might want to repeat this procedure several times until the filament comes out clean.</p>
<p>The right picture shows what a clean cold-pulled filament should look like. It is important to have the imprint of the nozzle on it, this way you are sure the nozzle was filled and nothing was left inside. Also, the color is not mixed with the one you have been using previously or have dark marks on it.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-300x214.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-561x400.jpg 561w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-768x548.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-800x571.jpg 800w" alt="dirty cold pull" width="400" height="286" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-300x203.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-591x400.jpg 591w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-768x520.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-800x542.jpg 800w" alt="clean cold pull" width="693" height="469" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>After the procedure</h3>
<p>Secure the idler door by having <strong>the head of the idler screw</strong>, on the left of the extruder, <strong>about flush with the plastic parts, when the filament is not loaded.</strong> Then we recommend running the Z calibration (<em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Calibrate Z</em>) as pushing on the extruder might have thrown it off balance. Also, turn Autoload of filament back on, if you prefer this feature.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">this article</a> to learn about the most common causes leading to filament extrusion problems and how to prevent them from happening.</div>

Cold pull (MK3S/MK2.5S)

<p>Every FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) printer requires a First Layer Calibration, which <strong>sets the vertical "Z" distance between the nozzle and the print surface</strong>. Sometimes this value needs <strong>a slight adjustment</strong> and for this situation, there is an option called "<strong>Live adjust Z"</strong> <em>(as you are mostly tuning it live during the first layers of your print).</em> The reason for adjusting the distance is to mostly <strong>provide better adhesion</strong> of the extruded filament.</p>
<h3><strong>How does it work?</strong></h3>
<p>It is important to know the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>the default value before the First layer calibration starts at zero (0.000) for all printers</li>
<li>to get <strong>closer to the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>counter-clockwise</strong> and further <strong>increase the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.500 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.700...)</li>
<li>to get <strong>further from the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>clockwise</strong> and continue <strong>lowering the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.700 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.500...)</li>
</ul>
<p>The values of the <em>Live adjust Z</em> are typically in the range of -1.500 to -0.200. Going above zero into the positive values is not possible, this indicates either an issue with the measuring sensor (M.I.N.D.A., P.I.N.D.A., SuperPINDA) or incorrect alignment.</p>
<p>The correctly assembled print head has <strong>the sensor always slightly above the nozzle</strong>, never at an equal level or below the nozzle (see the picture below). <em>The exact position can slightly vary, use the last chapter of the assembly manual of your printer to set the rough distance.</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04.jpeg" alt="" width="718" height="350" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S extruder</em></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (while printing)</h3>
<p>The most common approach is to perform the <em>Live adjust Z</em> during the print. Go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt;</em> <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z.</em></span> This will show the <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z</em></span> value you have set in the First layer calibration. From here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p>The <strong>Original Prusa MK4</strong> and <strong>Original Prusa XL</strong> are equipped with a loadcell, which will calibrate the first layer automatically. In case you would still like to fine-tune it, you can long-press the knob while the first layer is printed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-600x194.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-800x258.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-300x97.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-768x248.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">PRO tip: shortcut from the main screen, while printing the first few layers press and hold the knob for a few seconds to access the <em>Live adjust Z</em> screen.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Adjusting Live adjust Z value while printing is permanent</strong>, not only for the ongoing print! The new value will also remain after you turn OFF the printer.</div>
</div>
<div>In the picture below you can see examples of different <em>Live adjust Z</em> values. If the nozzle is too high from the surface, the filament won't stick properly (left), if the nozzle is too close to the surface, the filament won't be able to "flow out" leading to a potential clog of the nozzle (right).</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" alt="" width="1132" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (before the print)</h3>
<p>You can also change the value while the printer is at rest from <em>LCDMenu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Live adjust Z.</em> You will see the value set previously during the First layer calibration, and from here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-600x194.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-800x258.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-300x97.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-768x248.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<p><strong>The Live adjust Z should be used only to fine-tune the distance</strong>. For example, PETG and other high-temperature materials require to be squished in the surface slightly more as they tend to warp (lift up), compared to the PLA. If you have replaced the sensor or disassembled the print head (extruder) you should run the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> instead.</p>
<div> </div>


Live adjust Z

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<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ASA</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong>, due to its high UV light and temperature resistance. Unlike other materials soluble in more dangerous chemicals, <strong>ASA can be dissolved in acetone.</strong> The main disadvantage of this material is significant warping, which requires printing at higher ambient temperatures.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 260 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 105 °C for the first layer, 110 °C for the other layers.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-asa/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">ASA</strong></a> (Acrylic Styrene Acrylonitrile) is a technical material that is considered a <strong>successor to ABS</strong>. Compared to ABS, <strong>ASA is more UV resistant, warps less, and doesn’t smell as much.</strong> ASA is a tough and resilient material that is, thanks to its UV and temperature resistance (up to 93 °C), <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong> and for making technical parts. See for example our <strong>MK3S printer</strong> <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/"><strong>fan shroud.</strong></a> Another great advantage of ASA is its <strong>solubility in acetone vapors</strong>, which can be used to make a smooth and glossy finish. This gives the model not only great looks but also different mechanical properties (see our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>).</p>
<p>The main disadvantage of ASA is <strong>significant warping</strong> caused by temperature differences between the model and its surroundings. Another disadvantage is that ASA releases potentially dangerous fumes during printing - this means you should keep your printer in a well-ventilated area. ASA can be easily sanded both wet and dry.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ASA printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>You can find more details about how to print with ASA in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/asa-prusament-is-here-learn-everything-about-the-successor-to-abs/">our in-depth article</a>.</p>
<p>And to compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High UV resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ An enclosure is necessary for printing large parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Detailed prints with no stringing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Prints at high temperatures</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Easy postprocessing (e.g. sanding, cutting, etc.)</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Partially hygroscopic (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High impact and wear resistance</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p><strong>ASA</strong> is suitable for outdoor use and for making technical parts.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated to at least <strong>100 °C</strong>, and the printer should be inside an enclosure to keep a higher ambient temperature. If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/"><strong>PrusaSlicer</a></strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will create a wall around the object and keep the model slightly warmer, mitigating the warping. Keep in mind that printing a lot of ASA in an unventilated enclosure can cause the fan shroud and/or extruder plastic parts to deform over time. This may impact performance or cause issues.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p>
</div>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p><strong>ASA sticks very well to our print sheets</strong> (smooth and powder coated) but other print surfaces, like glass, might require a layer of acetone with dissolved ASA (or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a>). If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118"><strong>HIPS</strong></a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ASA and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not put acetone or ABS/ASA juice on the powder-coated sheet!</div>
<h3><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></h3>
<p>ASA is a pretty good material for postprocessing. Not only you can <strong>sand it wet and dry</strong> but you can also <strong>glue/weld it with acetone</strong> and <strong>smooth it with acetone vapors.</strong> Smoothed models have a glossy surface that looks like it’s treated with car lacquer or was injection molded. However, printed objects usually tend to lose detail and sharp edges with smoothing. You can find out more about chemical smoothing in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 572px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-302x400.jpg 302w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-452x600.jpg 452w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-226x300.jpg 226w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-768x1019.jpg 768w" alt="" width="772" height="1024"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Mechanical parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed prints</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Fan shroud (high-temperature resistant parts)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Outdoor (UV resistant) parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>If you have any questions about 3D printing in general, about your order, shipping, calibration or troubleshooting of your printer, don't hesitate to contact us! We are providing full 24/7 customer support via live chat and e-mail (info@prusa3d.com). Our support is available in <strong>Czech, English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, and Polish languages.</strong></p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Live Chat -&nbsp;</strong>we are available 24/7. It can be found in our <a href="http://shop.prusa3d.com">online store</a> in the bottom right corner. Make sure you are logged in!</div>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Email -</strong> Our contact e-mail is <a href="mailto:info@prusa3d.com">info@prusa3d.com</a>.&nbsp;</div>
<p><strong>We can help you out with:&nbsp;</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Ordering any of our products through our online store.</li>
<li>Pre-sale questions and learning more about our products.</li>
<li>Checking on your pending order.</li>
<li>Assembly and calibration of your newly purchased printer.</li>
<li>Solving printing problems and queries.</li>
</ul>
<h2><strong>Knowledge base</strong></h2>
<p>That is where you are right now! In the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com">Prusa Knowledge Base</a>, you can find answers to the same questions you may ask on chat and email, and much more!</p>
<p>You can either search for topics using the <strong>search field</strong>, and read articles relevant to your <strong>printer model</strong> by selecting it on the main page, or you can browse through our seven <strong>main categories:<br /></strong></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/assembly-manuals_272">Assembly manuals</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/about-your-printer_201">About your printer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/calibration_199">Calibration</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/using-the-printer_202">Using the printer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/troubleshooting_194">Troubleshooting</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/general-info_1910">PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/3rd-party-accessories-other-projects_246">3rd party accessories</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/materials">Extensive Material guides</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Handbook and Assembly manuals</h3>
<p>Assembly and printing documentation is available in Czech, English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, and Polish.</p>
<p>To download the handbook, visit <a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">the Downloads page</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printer-handbooks_125045">its dedicated Knowledgebase article</a>. Assembly manuals you will find <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">right here</a> in this Knowledge Base. These sections are updated regularly, so it's always better to use the online version of the documentation.</p>
<h2><strong>Prusa 3D&nbsp;</strong></h2>
<p><a href="https://prusa3d.com">https://prusa3d.com</a> is our company website, where you can find an overview of everything we do. It also contains the following sections:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">Our Eshop</a>, where you can order printers, filament, and spare parts.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Printable parts</a>, where you can find the latest STL models for our 3D printers.&nbsp;</li>
<li><a href="https://www.printables.com/social/16-prusa-research/collections">Sample objects</a>, where you can find some tested and approved models to print.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">Drivers and manuals</a>, where you can find the latest drivers, manuals, and firmware versions.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2><strong>Printables.com</strong></h2>
<p><a href="Printables.com">Printables.com</a> is our community platform for everything 3D printer-related. We have prepared a unique concept of a community website and we have tried to make it simple and unified all aspects of the Prusa Research community under a single login.&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Here you will find:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong><a href="https://www.printables.com/model">Our model depository and marketplace</a></strong>&nbsp;with over 50 000 prints and thousands of users who want to share their models, printing services, and skills. Here you will find not only STL files but also G-Codes for the Original Prusa printers, which you can print instantly and without effort. We check every uploaded file for potentially harmful commands (crashing nozzle to bed, overheating, etc…).</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/">'Blog'</a></strong> - company blog where our editors publish articles about the development of our printers, latest information about Prusa Research, and informative texts about our 3D printers or 3D printing in general.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://forum.prusa3d.com/">'Forum'</a></strong> - Here you will find the main core of our community. Join discussions and share your experiences with other makers and Original Prusa owners around the world.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://world.prusa3d.com/">'World'</a></strong> - This is a map of all Prusa printers out in the wild. You can place your own marker in the map – either as a general (approximate) location or an exact one – e.g. if you are a business. You can choose from three options: if you want to help out other folks, print on demand, or just hang out.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://www.printables.com/group/discover">'Groups'</a></strong> is a way to coordinate with other makers in your specific area. This concept grew exponentially when the 2020 pandemic hit, and makers had a way to coordinate their efforts in printing PPE for their local hospitals and general practitioners. That is of course only the tip of the iceberg so for more information on Groups, please have a look at our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-coordinate-not-only-producing-of-protective-face-shields-via-prusaprinters-groups_32794/">Blog article on the subject</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you haven’t heard about Pritables before, don’t forget to check out <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/prusaprinters-org-is-now-printables-com-ultimate-database-of-3d-models-for-everyone_66880//">our article</a> and <a href="https://youtu.be/v9CjXtnimFE">Youtube video</a>. <strong>If you haven’t registered yet, I hope you’ll consider it now – after all, it’s the users who keep the community alive.</strong></p>
<h2><strong>Our social media</strong></h2>
<p>Our official social media accounts and channels are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PrusaResearch/">Prusa Research 3D printers</a></li>
<li>Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/Prusa3D">Prusa3D by Josef Prusa</a></li>
<li>Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/josefprusa/">josefprusa</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/prusament/">Prusament</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h2><strong>Forum</strong></h2>
<p>We strongly suggest visiting our official forum at <a href="forum.prusa3d.com">forum.prusa3d.com</a>, where you can find plenty of tips and inspiration, as well as up-to-date information about the Original Prusa printers and upgrades.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">To create an account on our forum, you need to go to the online store first and create an account there. A forum account with the same login credentials will be automatically created. However, any changes made in any of the two profiles won't be reflected in the other one. Please keep that in mind while changing your profile details, such as the password.&nbsp;</div>
<h2>Unofficial support channels</h2>
<p>There are plenty of unofficial places where you can find great tips regarding 3D printing. The community is vast and growing every day, and the atmosphere is usually very friendly and enthusiastic.</p>
<p>You can join one of our groups on Facebook:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/Prusai3users/">Original Josef Prusa i3/MK2/S/3 Owners</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunityresin/">Prusa Community Forum - Official Prusa SL1 Group</a></li>
<li>There are other groups covering a wide range of languages.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">Keep in mind that we are not responsible for any information found outside of our official support channels.</div>


Customer support

<p>The Original Prusa FDM printers have a sensor to detect distance from the print surface. During a calibration, and before each print, the sensor will go through a number of points, in a grid pattern, spread across the build-plate (whether it is a powder-coated or smooth PEI sheet does not matter), and measures the distance to the sheet. These points are interpolated and used to create a virtual mesh of the bed. During printing, if the bed is slightly warped, the sensor will still precisely follow the surface according to its measured mesh</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-300x170.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-600x341.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-768x436.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-800x455.jpg 800w" width="614" height="348" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK2/2.5/S, MK3/S/+</h3>
<p>These printers are equipped with a PINDA sensor, apart from the MK3S+, which is equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor.</p>
<p>The StallGuard for the Z-axis is active during the mesh bed leveling. In case the nozzle crashes into the bed before the PINDA sensor triggers, the calibration process is interrupted and the user is asked to check the nozzle for any kind of debris.</p>
<h4>Mesh bed leveling settings</h4>
<div class="note-callout">This feature is available starting from firmware 3.7.0.</div>
<p>The Mesh bed leveling settings can be found within <em>Settings - Mesh bed Leveling</em>, on the LCD menu. There you have the following options:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mesh (3x3 - 7x7)</li>
<li>Z-probe nr. (1 - 3 - 5)</li>
<li>Magnet comp. (ON / OFF)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Mesh:</strong> The default grid density is 3x3 (9 points). However, if you still experience uneven first layer adhesion, you can increase the density in Settings - Mesh bed leveling - Mesh to 7x7 (49 points).</p>
<p><strong>Z-probe nr.:</strong> Changing the Z-sensor nr. you change how many times will each point be measured. We suggest either 3 or 5 measurements per point since the final value is calculated as an average value. Changing these settings affects how long will the Mesh bed leveling procedure takes to complete.</p>
<p><strong>Magnet comp.:</strong> With 7x7 Mesh bed leveling, you can choose whether or not to use Magnets compensation. 3 of the 49 points are so close to magnets, that the reading can be off by as much as 80μm (microns). Magnet compensation ignores readings from these 3 points and calculates them from the surrounding points. <strong>We suggest leaving this function on.</strong></p>
<h4>Enforcing the Z-calibration</h4>
<p>If the mesh bed leveling is interrupted during the procedure, before a print, a message will appear on the screen stating "Enforcing the Z-calibration" and the printer will re-home and run through the procedure again. This can occur if there is debris on the nozzle pushing the bed down when probing, or if you touch and press the bed while it is probing. This will bring the deviance above a certain threshold and it will simply make another attempt to run the Mesh Bed Leveling. This is to avoid starting it from the menu again if the problem was simply an accident. If the problem remains, it will repeat this procedure three times before canceling the print.</p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091">P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MINI/+</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI is equipped with a M.I.N.D.A. sensor, while the Original Prusa MINI+ is equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor. The grid density is 4x4. </p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/m-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing-mini-mini_134021">M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor testing (MINI/MINI+)</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa XL and Original Prusa MK4</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL and the Original Prusa MK4 are equipped with a <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/preview/article/loadcell-xl"><strong>loadcell</strong></a>, to detect that the nozzle is close enough to the steel sheet for printing, and to avoid damage that would be caused by the nozzle digging into the steel sheet. </p>
<p>Before a print, the nozzle will check the distance to the print sheet in several places to create a virtual height map of the surface. The points are measured within the area of the chosen print. </p>


Mesh bed leveling

<h3>How do I get the kit or assembled printer owner discount?</h3>
<p>As stated on our website: <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com">Prusa3D</a>, if you purchase an assembled MK3S+ printer, we offer a 10% discount on your upcoming five subsequent purchases of an <strong>assembled printer of the same type</strong> and on 30 spools of selected filaments per year <strong>(not applicable to the</strong> <strong>MK4</strong>). If you choose to purchase your printer as a kit, we offer a 5% discount on 30 spools of selected filaments per year. In both cases, the discount is automatically activated in your account as soon as your first kit or printer is shipped.</p>
<h3>Can I have my printer's frame signed by Jo?</h3>
<p>Josef can sign the frame, but please know it can delay the expedition for over a month. He is very busy these days. If it's OK with you, you can ask for the signature in an email or via Live Chat.</p>
<h3>What are the printer dimensions?</h3>
<p>The dimensions are (W×L×H or X×Y×Z):</p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>Mini</strong> printer has 12.6 × 13 × 15 inch / 320 × 330 × 380 mm and 5 kg</li>
<li>Mini print area: 7×7×7 inch / 180 × 180 × 180 mm</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>SL1</strong> printer has 8.7 × 9.45 × 16.3 inch / 220 × 240 × 415 mm and 11 kg</li>
<li>SL1 print area: 4.7 × 2.6 × 5.9 inch / 120 × 68 × 150 mm</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>i3</strong> (MK2/3) printer itself has 16.5 × 16.5 × 15 inches / 420 × 420 × 380 mm and 7 kg</li>
<li>MK3/S print area: 9.8 × 8.2 × 8.2 inches / 250 × 210 × 210 mm</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that the mini and all i3 printers need some more space when in use. Especially in front of and behind them, as the heatbed is moving outside their footprint. Count with 19.7 × 21.5 × 21.5 inches / 500 × 550 × 450 mm (400 × 450 × 450 mm for the Mini), without the spool or MMU.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">If you are building an enclosure, you can add even more space in every direction, for better access and manipulation. For the MMU, add 150 mm / 6 in, in height, and think about <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/spool-placement_112035">where to put the 5 spools</a> (behind the printer or above).</div>
<h3>What is the printing precision/tolerance of the Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the precision tolerance of a well-assembled Original Prusa printer is 0,1 mm on the Z-axis and 0,3 mm on X and Y. It can be as little as 0,05 mm on all axes, after making additional calibrations such as the Extrusion multiplier calibration and Extruder linearity correction.</p>
<p>However, please note that the material is also relevant: it can shrink while cooling down, and low-quality filaments with uneven diameters will cause uneven extrusion. The optimization of the model for 3D printing (overhangs, etc.) is also important. Our printers are tested even for the 0.25 mm nozzle, which is more precise compared to the standard/stock nozzle with a 0.4 mm diameter. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/troubleshooting/dimension-errors">This article</a> studies the accuracy of FDM printing in more detail.</div>
<h3>What tools do I need when working with my Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>All necessary tools (pliers, screwdriver, hex keys, wrenches…) are included in the package. If you are wondering what else you could need, here is a list of some nice-to-have things:</p>
<ul>
<li>3.5'' side-cutter/flush-cutter pliers</li>
<li>White permanent marker</li>
<li>Compressed air</li>
<li>A big bottle of IPA 91% to clean the sheet</li>
<li>Acetone (only with the smooth sheet)</li>
</ul>
<h3>What is the life expectancy of the printer?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the average maintenance interval of our printers is around 800 print hours. When it needs to be serviced, most frequently, it’s the nozzle that needs to be changed, and then it can continue printing for many hundreds of hours more.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The ideal air temperature is from 20 - 30 °C (68 - 86 °F) and the ideal air humidity is 25 %.</div>
<h3>What is the power consumption of a PRUSA printer?</h3>
<p>The average power consumption that we have measured, at 26 °C (room temperature), is 80 W when printing generic PLA and 120 W when printing generic ABS.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>


FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

<p>In case there is a clog in your hotend, the filament might grind against the Bondtech-gears and be damaged enough so it can't be unloaded. It might snap right above the PTFE-tube when you try to pull it out by hand. In this case, the filament will need to be removed manually.</p>
<h3>Idler door open</h3>
<p>Open the idler door by removing the spring-loaded tension-screw(s), on the left side of the extruder.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 348px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 331px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-800x600.jpg 800w" width="400" height="300" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-534x400.jpg 534w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3S/MK3S+/MMU2S extruder (single idler screw)</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3 extruder (two idler screws)</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<h4>MMU2S idler door</h4>
<div>On the MMU2S, due to the "chimney" (IR-sensor-holder-mmu2s), you must remove the whole idler door by unscrewing the hinge- screw (red arrow) on the back.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="401" height="301"></div>
<h3>Where did it break?</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 311px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 294px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-800x600.jpg 800w" alt=""></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-800x600.jpg 800w" alt=""></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>Use Method 1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center; height: 17px;"><strong>Use Method 2</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>If the filament snapped right at the edge of the PTFE you should start with Method number 1, where you try to push the filament through the hotend. If there is 0.5-1cm sticking out of the filament, reaching the Bondtech filament-pulley starts with Method number 2, pulling it out with pliers.</p>
<h3>Setup</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 280º C. Wait for 3-5 minutes with the hotend at this temperature.</li>
<li>In the LCD menu in <em>Settings,</em> select <em>Disable steppers</em>.</li>
<li>Go to the &nbsp;<em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. Autoload,</em> so A<em>utoload</em> will not interfere.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">From now on the hotend will be hot! Avoid touching the lower part of the extruder (heaterblock + nozzle)!</div>
<h3>Method 1: Pushing the filament through the hotend</h3>
<p>Using another piece of filament, a thin (1-1,5 mm) Allen-wrench or same diameter wire, at least 4.5 cm long for the MK3(s) and 6 cm long for the MMU2s, you are often able to simply push it through.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="574" height="431"></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<ol>
<li>Feed in from the top of the extruder your tool of choice, down past the Bondtech-gear, and on top of the stuck filament.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you are able to push the stuck filament down the PTFE-tube with an Allen-wrench, switch to using filament after about 1-2 cm. Some Allen-wrenches may only be long enough to get it started.</div>
<ol start="2">
<li>In case the filament starts being extruded from the bottom, Keep pushing the filament to clear the nozzle and see the color change.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Method 2: Pull out filament with pliers</h3>
<p>While hotend is heated to 280° C, firmly grab the filament with the needle-nose pliers that came with the printer. Slowly drag/feed the filament upwards, bit by bit, through the top of the extruder body, until it is completely removed from the PTFE-tube.</p>
<p>The filament can get stuck on geometry on the path up through where it is fed. It is also possible to pull it out of the idler door.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="627" height="470"></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">After removing the filament, do a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075">Cold pull (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a> to ensure you have fully cleared the clog.</div>
<h3>Nope, it is still stuck</h3>
<p>If none of these methods work, it means that the tip is not touching the part of the hotend that is heated and is stuck in the PTFE-tube. In this case, you must extract the PTFE-tube. Follow the guide linked below to resolve it.</p>
<div class="note-callout">You will probably need to heat the hotend to extract the PTFE-tube with the stuck filament.</div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3-mk2-5_17360">How to replace a PTFE tube (MK3/MK2.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)</a></li>
</ul>


Removing filament from extruder manually

<p>This error can appear during the Self-test or the XYZ-calibration when the firmware detects a shorter distance of axis travel than expected. The exact length of each axis is stored in the printer's memory. Depending on where it is triggered, it will name the running process (Selftest, XYZ calibration, etc.) and will state the message "<strong><em>Please</em> c<em>heck: Axis length</em></strong>" on the display and the letter for the problematic axis, <strong>in the bottom right ("<em>X/Y/Z</em>")</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-300x102.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-600x204.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-768x261.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-800x272.jpeg 800w" alt="" width="600" height="204"></p>
<div class="note-callout">The length of the respective axis is determined on the Original Prusa MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ and MMU2S printers using the Trinamic stepper-drivers, which are detecting the end of each axis by the rise of the current going to the motor. In rare scenarios, the printer movement may not indicate an issue, while the test fails.</div>
<h3>Possible causes for X/Y-axis</h3>
<p>Most often it indicates an issue on the hardware level, and as it is the same method used for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-detection_2100">Crash detection</a> on the Original Prusa MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ printers, the issue should initially be troubleshot the same way. Check that belts and pulleys are installed as is shown in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">Assembly manual</a>, and make sure the axis can move smoothly along the full length of the axis, in both directions. Nothing should be loose. Make sure the pulley set-screw is secured on the <strong>flat side of the motor shaft.</strong> See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-detection_2100">Crash detection</a> for more information.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 50%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
<td style="width: 50%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center;">Correct <strong>X-axis</strong> pulley orientation and position.</td>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center;">Correct <strong>Y-axis</strong> pulley orientation and position.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Take a look at the extruder from behind, make sure that the cable bundle with the textile sleeve (or spiral wrap) isn't too wide, and touching the frame of the printer before the extruder can move to the initial position.</p>
<h4>Position of zip ties on the cable-holder</h4>
<p>Make sure the zip ties are situated exactly like instructed in the assembly manual. You want the top zip ties on the very top (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span>) or cleanly against the printed <em>cable-holder</em>. <strong>Zip ties must not interfere with either end of the axis <em>Einsy-door</em> or the PSU.</strong> Move the extruder to each end and check if the zip ties are touching either end.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">In general, always make sure your cable management and assembly of the extruder <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_169235#170224">is exactly as instructed in all steps of the assembly manual</a>.</div>
<p>The bottom zip ties holding the heater and thermistor cable must also be positioned so they do not interfere with the ends of the axis (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrows</span>), but also <strong>do not touch the Heatbed-cable-cover</strong>. Make sure they are cut flush with the head of the zip tie.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="400"></p>
<h3>Possible causes for Z-axis</h3>
<p>The main end-stop of the Z-axis is the <span class="tooltip" data-tooltip="p-i-n-d-a-sensor_125447">P.I.N.D.A. sensor,</span> so you should first make sure this is not set too high or not working correctly. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091">P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing</a> for more information.</p>
<p>However, more often there is an issue with your assembly, which interferes with the distance traveled. You need to look over your assembly and pay extra attention to <strong>the orientation of the Trapezoid nuts</strong> (Z lead screw). A section of its threads should be inside the printed part, not protruding up from the printed part. The highest point should be the M3 bolts securing the Trapezoid nuts. Also, if the error occurs during calibration, make sure nothing is touching the bed, i.e. a zip-tie on the bundle of cables.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%; text-align: center;">Correct orientation of the Trapezoid nut (Z lead screw).</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Another possible cause is that you have loaded an incorrect version of the firmware. For instance, the extruder for the Original Prusa MK3 and MK3S/MK3S+ are of different size, and therefore have a different length of expected travel. <strong>Always make sure you are using the correct firmware.</strong></p>
<p>For more info on issues with the Z-axis, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/failing-z-calibration-mk3s-mk2-5s_160858">Failing Z calibration (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a>.</p>
<h3>Lubrication</h3>
<p>Try to lubricate the smooth rods, as instructed in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">Maintenance tips</a>. The Original Prusa MK3S/MK3S+ is supplied with a tube of lubricant.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="400"></p>

Check Axis Length X/Y/Z (MK3S)

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div><strong>PLA</strong> is one of the <strong>easiest materials to print.</strong> It is inexpensive and suitable (not only) for beginners. It’s usually used for printing detailed models, figures, and quick prototypes that don’t require high mechanical, chemical, or temperature resistance.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215 °C for the first layer, 210 °C for other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PLA</strong></a> (Polylactic acid) is a plant-based polyester. <strong>PLA does not require a heated bed</strong>, can be printed fast and with low temperatures (melting point is somewhere around 175 °C). With PLA you can print both small, detailed models and large objects filling almost the entire print volume. Unlike some other filaments, <strong>PLA is not prone to significant warping</strong>. It is good for quick prototyping and creation of nice, low-cost models: concepts, prototypes, simple toys, jewelry, statues, etc. It is not suitable for technical and outdoor use. It doesn’t resist high temperatures (it gets soft and deform at temperatures over 60 °C), degrades under UV light and its mechanical resistance is also inferior - it breaks by the layers or into shards upon impact. Layer adhesion is weaker compared to other materials. Sanding PLA is possible with sandpaper but needs water cooling (wet sanding).</p>
<p>Various sources claim that <strong>PLA is biologically degradable</strong>. The material is made from corn, sugar cane, or sugar beet and indeed can be decomposed, but only in specialized composting facilities where temperatures exceed 80 °C. It is definitely <strong>not a good idea</strong> to throw the <strong>PLA</strong> waste into your garden compost - the material will not disintegrate, plus you will contaminate the soil with plastic microparticles.</p>
<p>Although the <strong>PLA</strong> material itself is <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament material) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layers/grooves that can support bacterial growth. If you still want 3D printed dishes or food containers, we suggest applying a <strong>special layer that seals the surface</strong> (food-safe coating) and printing with a stainless steel nozzle.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low price</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Brittle and inflexible</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print, suitable for beginners</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Low UV and temperature resistance</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good detail and low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Difficult post-processing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Suitable for large models</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PLA is for printing concept models, prototypes, or low-wear toys.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Consider using a smooth PEI sheet</strong></p>
<p>If you print with PLA on our Original Prusa i3 printers, <strong>you can print on either a smooth, powder-coated TXT or powder-coated satin sheet.</strong> However, the smooth sheet works better for printing parts that have a small contact area with the print surface. With a powder-coated sheet, you should move your live-Z lower: Filament must fill in the sheet texture. However, you need to be careful and not move the nozzle too low or you will damage your sheet! <strong>Info for different printer users:</strong> PLA is printable not only on PEI surface, but also on glass, Kapton tape, or using a glue stick.</p>
<p><strong>Try to adjust retractions for better results</strong></p>
<p>PLA is sometimes prone to stringing and oozing - this can be reduced with proper retraction settings.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
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<div class="p-rich_text_section"><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">Chemical smoothing</a> of PLA is possible only in <strong>laboratory conditions</strong> - PLA can be dissolved in <strong>chloroform, hot benzene, or tetrahydrofuran.</strong> These are dangerous organic solvents that should be handled only by skilled lab technicians. Some of the PLA filaments can be also partially dissolved and <strong>glued with acetone</strong> (or you can simply glue it with superglue).</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Static models</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases, cups, and other tabletop models</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Audio volume knob and other electronic parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="399" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ABS</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for printing mechanically stressed parts</strong>, thanks to its high tenacity and temperature resistance. Its surface can be smoothed with <strong>acetone</strong>. The main disadvantage is significant warping and toxic fumes.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 255 °C&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 100 °C, you can set the bed temperature between 80 to 110 °C depending on the size of an object (larger object means higher temperature).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/asa-abs/"><strong>ABS</strong></a> (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is basically a <strong>predecessor of</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809"><strong>ASA</strong></a>. ABS is generally used for making inexpensive, sturdy mechanical parts (LEGO bricks, car parts, cellphone parts, etc.). The material is <strong>tenacious and temperature resistant</strong> - this makes it suitable for engineering parts, etc. Compared to ASA, there is slightly worse UV resistance and more significant warping and odor during printing. Note that ABS parts used outdoor turn yellowish and more brittle over time.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ABS printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High tenacity &amp; mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Requires printer enclosure</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy postprocessing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of ABS is for printing cheap technical parts requiring good heat and mechanical resistance or parts that need to be acetone smoothed.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated at least up to 100 °C, <strong>the printer should be inside an enclosure</strong> with a higher ambient temperature.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p></div>
<p>If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will keep the model slightly warmer and mitigate the warping. Printing inside an enclosure can lead to deformation of the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/">fan shroud</a> and other plastic parts. This can affect the printer's functionality. In case your plastic parts tend to deform, we recommend printing them from a more temperature resistant material, for example <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>.</p>
<p><strong>Shrinkage</strong></p>
<p>You should keep in mind that <strong>ABS-printed parts tend to shrink slightly</strong> after cooldown. We recommend printing a testing object and comparing it with a source model. The shrinkage factor of this material is somewhere around 1-2%.</p>
<p><strong>Removing prints</strong></p>
<p>When removing prints with a large surface area, it is very important to let the part and sheet cool properly. <strong>You may have to assist the process using a spatula.</strong> Be gentle when flexing the sheet and removing the print as the smooth PEI foil can tear.</p>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p>If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118">HIPS</a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ABS and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<p>ABS can be sanded wet and dry and smoothed with acetone fumes, just like ASA (see more in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>)</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 319px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lego bricks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed model</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>Food-safe 3D printing is not as simple as it might seem. Here we outline some of the challenges. We also recommend you to check out <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-make-food-grade-3d-printed-models_40666/">our blog article</a> where we present our research of the process.</p>
<h3>Materials</h3>
<p>PETG, and sometimes PLA, are hailed in the 3D printing community for being chemically neutral and as practically food-safe materials. Your soda plastic bottles, food containers, and salad boxes are made from PET, a close relative of PETG.</p>
<p>The problem, with all 3d-printed objects, in general, is that they are made from layers. The grooves in between those layers are a seedbed for bacteria as they are almost impossible to clean properly, and will hold residue.</p>
<p>Another issue is color-pigment and unknown additives. These might not be as neutral to your body as pure plastic. It is also hard to say exactly how much there is of these substances. Natural/pure PETG-filament without any color, would be your best bet, but it's hard to say exactly what is in it. Some filaments are FDA-approved, but often with an asterisk like "Approved except red, orange, and pink". In <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-make-food-grade-3d-printed-models_40666/">our blog article</a> we map out which of our Prusament filaments you can and can not use.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">There are, however, food-safe certified epoxy coatings that you can apply to your printed model.</div>
<h3>Application</h3>
<p><strong>Waterbottle, no. Cookiecutter, maybe.</strong> There should not be much problem to 3d-print your own custom cookie-cutters, but as the layer-lines will collect food, bacteria will grow, so this will be something you want to throw away after some use.</p>
<p>The same goes for soap and detergent if you think you can just wash it. The layer lines can absorb these chemicals, which later can be released into something you want to consume.</p>
<h3>(M)SLA resin printers have practically no lines. Can't I use this?</h3>
<p>Again, no. There can be uncured resin and other contaminants on and in the print. There are bio-compatible resins out there, but these are highly specialized and very expensive. They also rely on special considerations when curing and in post-processing.</p>
<h3>Nozzle</h3>
<p>The nozzle you use also makes a difference. The standard brass nozzle is <strong>not considered food-safe</strong>, as it wears out. It is a consumable. Where does the worn material go? Into your print. Therefore, a soft brass nozzle just won't do. You would need a stainless-steel or a titanium nozzle if you are even considering printing with food in mind.</p>
<h3>So what can I do?</h3>
<p>There are epoxy resin coating-materials out there that have been deemed suitable. There is also the option of using 3d-prints simply as a mold with suitable materials and manufacturing methods. We have done some research and you can read more about food-safe 3D printing in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-make-food-grade-3d-printed-models_40666/">this blog article</a>.</p>
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
<p>It is theoretically possible, but special preparations and post-processing is required. If you really want to, it is not as simple as getting some PETG, and printing what you want. Do proper research, so you do not put anyone's health or safety at risk!</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>We do not recommend using 3d-prints as food-containers etc!</strong></div>


Food safe FDM printing

<p>One of the best things about getting your very first 3D printer kit is the assembly. Building your first 3D printer may take some time, however, it's <strong>the perfect way</strong> to get to know the machine in detail. Not only that, but it's also a lot of fun to put the whole machine together.</p>
<p>The length of the assembly depends on the type of the printer and generally takes several hours, complicated setups (e.g. MK3S + MMU2S) can day or two. However it is not a race, so take your time, follow the instructions and <strong>enjoy the construction!&nbsp;</strong></p>
<h2>Our manuals&nbsp;</h2>
<ul>
<li>Each <strong>kit</strong> comes with a printed assembly manual (<strong>MMU2S assembly manual is only available online</strong>). If you would like to see the photos in full resolution, you can always visit <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">our online manuals</a>. Choose the language and product you are assembling. Pay attention to your <strong>printer version</strong> (e.g., MK3 assembly differs from the MK3S).</li>
<li>Our manuals are written in&nbsp;<strong>English, Czech, Spanish, Italian, German, French, and Polish.&nbsp;</strong></li>
<li>We try to make our manuals easy to understand so that truly everyone, from children to elderly persons can enjoy our printers. However, if you struggle with any chapter, do not hesitate to contact our support at <a href="mailto:info@prusa3d.com">info@prusa3d.com</a>.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2>Common assembly errors&nbsp;</h2>
<ol>
<li>Do not rush with the assembly as going fast through usually means that some mistakes are made in the process. And it's more time consuming to fix them than doing everything properly right from the start.</li>
<li>Once you see anything labeled in&nbsp;<span data-hd-color="rgb(192, 80, 77)"><strong>RED,</strong></span>&nbsp;always double-check that you followed these instructions correctly. These are usually essential steps in the whole assembly. Not following them might cause future problems, delays, and in the worst-case scenario even damage to the product.<br />
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-600x389.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-800x519.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-300x195.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-768x498.jpg 768w" width="674" height="437"></li>
</ol>
<h2>How hard can it be?</h2>
<ol>
<li>The complete assembly is quite straightforward if you follow the manual precisely.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Each chapter is labeled with a&nbsp;<strong>level of difficulty.&nbsp;</strong>That should give you an idea of what you can expect.</li>
<li><strong>Don't be afraid! Tens of thousands of users made it so you can make it too!</strong></li>
</ol>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div>Polyvinyl butyral (PVB) is a material designed for easy smoothing with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Thanks to its transparency, it’s suitable for printing vases, lamp shades and other design objects. Print settings are similar to PLA, while its mechanical properties are slightly better.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215±10 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 75 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI or satin TXT sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pvb/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PVB</strong></a> (Polyvinyl butyral) has similar print settings to PLA, mechanical properties are comparable with CPE or low-tier PETG. Thanks to its translucency and IPA smoothing, it is an ideal choice when you want to make design objects, such as unconventional vases, jewellery, lamp shades and similar objects. The most ideal are models that require partially transparent surface. It’s recommended to tweak print settings, especially layer height, number of perimeters and infill density. We recommend printing with large nozzle diameter and spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>PVB is not suitable for printing mechanical parts. Its dimensional stability is great, tenacity and tensile strength is comparable to CPE (and low-tier PETG) but temperature resistance is similar to PLA.</p>
<p>Since it's an easy-to-print material (similar to PLA), PVB is a great choice for both experienced and new 3D printer users that would like to try something new.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 515px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Print settings similar to PLA</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Low layer to layer adhesion</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Filament transparency</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Hygroscopic filament (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Ideal for design parts, vases, lamp shades etc.</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Higher price</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ IPA chemical smoothing</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Great surface adhesion</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good tenacity (similar to CPE)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good tensile strength (similar to PETG)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Low warping (lower than PLA)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good for using 0.8mm nozzle</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PVB is for printing transparent models, such as jewellery, vases, lamp shades etc.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Do not use standard powder-coated TXT sheet</strong></p>
<p>PVB adheres well to a clean <strong>smooth PEI sheet</strong> or <strong>satin TXT sheet</strong>. Powder-coated TXT sheet might not provide a good adhesion.</p>
<p><strong>Use the spiral vase mode</strong></p>
<p>When printing transparent parts that require IPA smoothing, it’s good to print with a larger nozzle diameter (0.8mm) and with the spiral vase mode on. Printing with more perimeters will make layers visible even after IPA smoothing.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
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<div class="p-rich_text_block" dir="auto">
<div>The main advantage of PVB is the possibility of IPA smoothing. PVB models can be smoothed out with IPA fumes (smoothing box or professional smoothing station), washing in an IPA bath or direct application (brush or spray). Detailed smoothing description can be found in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/prusament-pvb-our-new-transparent-filament-made-for-easy-chemical-smoothing_43066/">dedicated article</a>, general smoothing instructions can be found in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">older article</a>.</div>
<div>
<p><strong>Keep the filament dry</strong></p>
<p><strong>PVB is very prone to absorbing moisture.</strong> Always put the spool back inside the bag with silica gel or <strong>let it dry</strong> for 8 hours at 45 °C before printing!</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="533"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lamp shades</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks and other design parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Miniatures</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>Supports can be hard to remove and leave imperfect surfaces above them. Depending on the shape of the object, there is also the risk of ruining the print in the process. Some geometry is not even possible to print as a single piece using FFF printing.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Solublefromhb.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Solublefromhb-600x339.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Solublefromhb-800x452.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Solublefromhb-300x170.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Solublefromhb-768x434.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Solublefromhb-1536x869.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="339"></p>
<p>With the MMU2S it’s possible to use water-soluble materials, like PVA+ and BVOH, to print the supports or just the 'interface' between the print and the support structure. However, printing solubles can be demanding and requires some considerations along the way. <strong>It is a process more suitable for advanced users.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<h3>Which material to use</h3>
<p>The first consideration is that <strong>the main material and the soluble support material must have similar melting/printing temperatures.</strong> <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/special/169-primaselect-pva-soluble-support-500g.html">PVA+</a> and <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/special/161-verbatim-bvoh-soluble-support-05kg.html">BVOH</a> are similar in many ways, but BVOH is absolutely the better (but more expensive) option. It is stiffer and will behave much better than PVA+ when printed. This is why it is better to be printed with PETG.</p>
<p><strong>For PETG you can practically only use BVOH. PLA can be printed with both PVA+ and BVOH.</strong></p>
<div class="note-callout">If you wish to print ABS with soluble supports, your best alternative is HIPS, which can be dissolved using <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limonene">'Limonene'</a>. Make sure you read up on the different types of 'Limonene' and the health and safety considerations when using it. One alternative to PVA+ and BVOH could be PVB, which dissolves in IPA.</div>
<h3>Slicer configuration</h3>
<p>There is a specific configuration for the soluble support materials in PrusaSlicer. Once you have selected the Original Prusa MMU2S printer profile, you will find some new options in the '<em>Print Settings</em>' drop-down menu. For 0.15 mm and 0.2 mm layer height, you now have the additional <strong>SOLUBLE FULL</strong> and <strong>SOLUBLE INTERFACE</strong> (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple squares</span>).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a988265d9ecd25ba_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a988265d9ecd25ba_painted-600x379.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a988265d9ecd25ba_painted-800x506.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a988265d9ecd25ba_painted-300x190.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a988265d9ecd25ba_painted-768x485.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a988265d9ecd25ba_painted-1536x971.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="500" height="316"></p>
<h4>SOLUBLE FULL</h4>
<p>This option will use the soluble material for the entire support structure (left picture). <strong>This is recommended where you have complex geometry that requires a lot of internal supports only.</strong> PVA+ and BVOH adhere poorly to the Smooth PEI or Textured steel sheet but will adhere well when printed directly onto PLA and PETG. If you are printing something with supports on the build plate, we recommend the SOLUBLE INTERFACE preset.</p>
<h4>SOLUBLE INTERFACE</h4>
<p>This preset applies the soluble material only in the more densely printed layers between the actual support structure and the model (right picture). This allows you to prints the support structure with whatever color is loaded and only uses the soluble material where it is needed. This will save soluble material, which is more expensive than PLA and PETG. <strong>If you have a print that requires a lot of support directly on the steel sheet, this is the option preset for you.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 320px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 302px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 302px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolFULL.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolFULL-525x400.jpg 525w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolFULL-788x600.jpg 788w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolFULL-300x229.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolFULL-768x585.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="305"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 302px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolINTERFACE.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolINTERFACE-521x400.jpg 521w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolINTERFACE-781x600.jpg 781w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolINTERFACE-300x231.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SolINTERFACE-768x590.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="307"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; text-align: center; height: 18px;"><em>SOLUBLE FULL - Green filament is BVOH</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; text-align: center; height: 18px;">SOLUBLE INTERFACE - <em>Green filament is BVOH</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Default tool</h4>
<p>PrusaSlicer or the MMU2S will not detect where you loaded the soluble filament. <strong>PrusaSlicer will default to assign the support material or interface material to Filament number 5.</strong> You can change this to any other filament by entering the number of which the filament is loaded (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple squares</span>).</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 203px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 203px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 203px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/82a994aacd74389f_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/82a994aacd74389f_painted-600x308.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/82a994aacd74389f_painted-800x410.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/82a994aacd74389f_painted-300x154.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/82a994aacd74389f_painted-768x394.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/82a994aacd74389f_painted-1536x787.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="205"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 203px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/27ca8dcaaac81d06_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/27ca8dcaaac81d06_painted-600x307.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/27ca8dcaaac81d06_painted-800x409.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/27ca8dcaaac81d06_painted-300x153.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/27ca8dcaaac81d06_painted-768x393.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/27ca8dcaaac81d06_painted-1536x785.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="205"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>'Support material/raft/skirt extruder: 0' will use whatever tool is currently loaded to the extruder.</em></p>
<h4>Purging volumes</h4>
<p>By default, 70 mm³ is used for both loading and unloading. <strong>When using water-soluble supports we suggest using at least 100-120 mm³.</strong> If you find any residue in your print, increase the amount. PVA+/BVOH may require at least 120 mm³ when unloaded.</p>
<p>To access the settings for purging volumes, press the <span class="key">Purging volumes...</span>&nbsp;button (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow</span>).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/678ae0463b277e7c_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/678ae0463b277e7c_painted-600x302.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/678ae0463b277e7c_painted-800x402.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/678ae0463b277e7c_painted-300x151.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/678ae0463b277e7c_painted-768x386.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/678ae0463b277e7c_painted-1536x772.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="302"></p>
<h3>Printer and MMU2S configuration</h3>
<p>It is essential that you have performed a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ir-filament-sensor-calibration-mmu2s_2245">very precise IR sensor calibration</a>. With the properties of PVA+ and BVOH, their diameter can easily deform with excessive pressure from the idler.</p>
<p>Again, due to their soft properties, the filament tips will inevitably string, so it’s important to keep an eye on them and be ready to intervene and cut them while the main filament is being printed.</p>
<p class="tip-callout">The difference in Max Volumetric speed: PLA has a max volumetric speed of 15 mm³/s, while PVA+, and BVOH have 4 mm³/s. This increases the total print time.</p>
<h3>Dissolving and removing supports</h3>
<p>When the print is complete and <strong>before removing the supports</strong>, <strong>immerse it in warm water (maximum 45 °C) and leave it there for a few hours to overnight</strong>. After this, the supports should come off pretty easily but may require some use of tools, depending on your print's geometry. It may help to remove as much of the supports as possible while still dry<strong>.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p>Once the printed object is free from the supports, immerse it in hot water again for 10-20 minutes and then brush it to remove the residual debris of PVA+/BVOH. <strong>Using a small tough toothbrush can be an ideal tool for this task.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p>Unless you are dissolving several kilos of PVA/BVOH per day, you can pour the resulting BVOH/PVA-solution down the sewer.</p>
<h3>Handling and storing soluble filaments</h3>
<p>As you might have expected, both BVOH and PVA are very hygroscopic (easily absorbs water) and should be kept as dry as possible. <strong>PVA+ or BVOH should not be exposed to humidity.</strong> It must be placed right back in its zip-lock bag right after its usage, and always with one or more bags of silica. Otherwise, <strong>it will deteriorate in a matter of a few months and go soft at a much lower temperature,</strong> starting trouble already at the loading process.</p>
<p>When deteriorated like this it will quickly cause loading/unloading issues and your hotend to clog. The best approach is to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cs/prints/4583-spool-holder-and-drybox-for-enclosure-v2-with-humi">print and store these materials in a Drybox</a>.</p>

MMU2S and soluble materials (PVA/BVOH)

<p>3D printing is an automated additive manufacturing-process, where a 3D printer creates a physical model based on digital data (a 3D object). All types of 3D printing are based on the same principle: creating objects by adding layers on top of (or below) existing layers. As of this moment, there is no 3D printing technology that would be completely universal and suitable for every purpose. This is why it's important to decide how and for what purpose you are going to use the printer.&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/types-of-printers-and-their-differences_112464#fdm-fff-printers">FFF printers</a>
<ul>
<li>Cartesian printers</li>
<li>CoreXY printers</li>
<li>Delta printers</li>
<li>Polar printers</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/types-of-printers-and-their-differences_112464#sla">SLA (Stereolithography)</a>
<ul>
<li>Masked Stereolithography (MSLA)</li>
<li>Stereolithography (SLA)</li>
<li>Direct/digital Light Processing (DLP)</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/types-of-printers-and-their-differences_112464#sls">SLS (Selective Laser Sintering)</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>FDM/FFF printers</h3>
<p><strong>FDM</strong> is an acronym for <strong>Fused Deposition Modeling</strong> (trademark by Stratasys) and <strong>FFF</strong> stands for <strong>Fused Filament Fabrication</strong> (open source). It encompasses all 3D printers, which heat/melt polymers and push it through a nozzle/extruder/print head onto a platform, where the model is built. The material for printing is provided as filament spools of 1.75 mm or occasionally 2.85 mm in diameter. The differences in the types of printers out there lay in how the extruder and print platform move to create the models.&nbsp;</p>
<h4>Cartesian printers</h4>
<div class="note-callout">The <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/51-original-prusa-i3-mk3s">Original Prusa i3 printers</a> and the <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/994-original-prusa-mini.html">Original Prusa MINI</a> are Cartesian printers.</div>
<p>Cartesian printers are characterized by at least three motors moving the parts of the printer along the axes of the Cartesian coordinate system: Y (back and forth), X (left and right), and Z (up and down). Most personal desktop printers are Cartesian printers due to them being very widespread and low cost</p>
<p>The model to be printed needs to be sliced into layers for the print. The Y- and X-axis will define the coordinates to be printed in one layer, and once the layer is ready the Z-axis will make the nozzle move one layer up, either by moving the print-bed or by moving the extruder. If overhangs are present, supports can be added below them.</p>
<p>The biggest advantage of the Cartesian printers is how common they are. There are a lot of tips, tricks, and solutions for issues online. The parts for the printer can also be found easily.</p>
<p>On the downside, Cartesian printers, if used for faster prints, will have a lower quality of printing due to the weight of the axes. Also, usually, the printer volume is a lot larger than the build volume due to the movement of all of the axes.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-300x165.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-600x330.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-768x423.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-800x440.png 800w" alt="" width="667" height="367"></p>
<h4>CoreXY printers</h4>
<p>Like the Cartesian printers, the CoreXY design also has the latitudinal and longitudinal coordinates determined by two motors and timing belts on the Y- and X-axis, and the print height determined by the Z-axis. The difference of the Core XY is that the X and Y movement is dependent on each other, done by a very specific belt design. The print surface, in this case, will be lifted to meet the extruder. Note that not only the movable print surface makes a CoreXY printer. The defining trait for the printer type is the design of the XY-belts and their movement.</p>
<p>Since the X and Y axes are a lot lighter, faster prints will not have the artifacts that may appear on fast prints on Cartesian printers. The design also allows for a lot larger part of its overall volume to be the build-volume, since there is no need for the print surface to move sideways.</p>
<p>The belts used in CoreXY printers are a lot longer, which makes all belt issues bigger than with the Cartesian printers. Their complicated path also makes these issues harder to repair. The frame needs to be very stable and perfectly square, or else the dimensional accuracy will be smaller.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Corexy.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Corexy-300x241.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Corexy-498x400.png 498w" alt="" width="322" height="258"></p>
<h4>Delta printers</h4>
<p>In Delta printers, the print surface stands still, and three motors work together to meet in the hotend and move it with the latitudinal and longitudinal coordinates, as well as the height of it. These motors control three posts, and these posts are connected to the extruder by arms that will move the hotend. The name of the printer style (delta = Δ) comes from the triangular shape which the arms holding the hotend form. This type of printer was designed to make faster prints.</p>
<p>The Delta printer extruder is very light. That combined with the 3 motors controlling it, makes this printer ideal for fast prints. This printer was an early adopter of the 32-bit system due to the complex calculation it takes to make the movements. Some of the attraction of the printer is also how cool it looks while it is working.&nbsp;</p>
<p>The Delta printers all have a relatively small and circular print surface. This limits the build-space significantly. The high speed of the printer makes the prints less precise. Also, it is uncommon to be used as a desktop printer, as any issues that the printer has can be extremely difficult to troubleshoot and fix, not only due to complex working and lack of information but the overall lack and cost of parts. The printer also needs to work with a Bowden extruder to make the extruder light, which can limit the number of filaments that can be used.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-300x194.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-600x388.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-768x496.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-800x517.png 800w" alt="" width="690" height="445"></p>
<h4>Polar printers</h4>
<p>This printer uses the Polar coordinate system, which has the points on a circular grid instead of the square as the Cartesian system. The printing platform not only moves sideways but it also rotates. This allows the extruder to only move up and down, and also for a large build area. This printer has a very light frame.</p>
<p>This technology is still being developed. That makes the printer very expensive, and it makes parts and technical support hard to find when you have problems.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/polar-printer.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/polar-printer-294x300.png 294w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/polar-printer-392x400.png 392w" alt="" width="401" height="409"></p>
<h3>SLA</h3>
<h4>(Stereolithography)</h4>
<p>The basic principle of <em>vat polymerization printing</em> is that a vat containing photosensitive liquid (resin) is cured layer by layer, by a heat source to make the object.</p>
<p>Printed objects are almost perfectly smooth, incredibly detailed and layers are nearly invisible to the human eye, with the minimal layer height going from 25 – 100 microns. The biggest disadvantage of this technology can be a smaller print surface area and also the toxicity of liquid resins. You should try to prevent resins from touching your skin and avoid inhaling resin vapors.</p>
<p>Printed objects are not fit for immediate use after the print job finishes since they tend to be a bit soft and sticky - which is caused by the leftover unsolidified resin on the surface of the object. It is recommended to wash the object in isopropyl alcohol and to cure it further using UV light.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">The <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/accessories/720-original-prusa-curing-and-washing-machine-cw1.html">Curing and Washing Machine (CW1)</a> is an optional accessory for our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/52-original-prusa-sl1">Original Prusa SL1</a>, which can wash, dry, and cure the print quickly and easily.</div>
<h4>Masked Stereolithography (MSLA)</h4>
<p>Each layer's shape is displayed as a semi-transparent mask on an LCD screen, and the exposure is performed employing a high-performance UV LED. UV light can pass only through white pixels on the display. Due to the fixed resolution of the LCD display, the printed objects have a fixed XY resolution. This method also cures a whole layer at a time, meaning it doesn’t matter how many objects there are on the printing platform.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/52-original-prusa-sl1">Original Prusa SL1 3D printer</a> uses this method.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-300x90.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-600x180.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-768x231.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-800x240.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h4>Stereolithography (SLA)</h4>
<p>Exposure is performed by a UV laser ray. The ray is controlled by two mirrors and it “draws” each layer gradually. The time required to solidify a single layer depends on the size of the area which needs to be solidified. Simply put, the more objects there are on the print platform, the longer the print takes.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-300x87.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-600x174.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-768x223.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-800x232.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h4>Direct/digital Light Processing (DLP)</h4>
<p>The whole layer is solidified at once thanks to a digital projector. The areas that receive exposure from the projector are solidified. The advantage of this method is obvious - each layer is solidified in the same amount of time, no matter how many objects there are on the print platform.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-300x91.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-600x183.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-768x234.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-800x244.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3>SLS</h3>
<p><strong>Selective Laser Sintering</strong></p>
<p>Another type of 3D printing technology is SLS and DMLS, which use a process called <em>sintering</em>. Essentially, every time a new layer is printed, a cylinder spreads a thin layer of fine powder across the platform, which is then sintered with a laser into the required shape. When the print is finished, the whole object is covered with the printing powder. Due to how this method works, the printed objects must have holes, through which the excessive powder is poured out. Unsintered material can be reused for the next prints, which means that very little material is wasted. Another advantage is the fact that the layers are nearly invisible. These printers are not massively widespread among the common public. Due to their main use in various industries, the prices are noticeably higher - the cheapest machines start at around 6000 USD.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SLS-printers-650x432-min.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SLS-printers-650x432-min-300x199.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SLS-printers-650x432-min-600x400.jpg 600w" alt="" width="459" height="306"></p>
<p>There are other types of technology and designs out there, like "Jetting" or concrete and metal printers, using various methods. Since those are mostly reserved for industrial applications due to price and patents, they are not included here.&nbsp;</p>


Types of printers and their differences

<p>Due to some inconsistencies in readings from the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/filament-sensor-mk3-non-s_2125">optical filament sensor</a> we created the S-upgrade to address this. The new IR filament sensor still uses an optical sensor but is triggered by a mechanical action designed into the new plastic parts of the MK3S, MMU2S, and MK2.5S extruder.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 450px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/IR-sensor.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/IR-sensor-300x225.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/IR-sensor-533x400.png 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/IR-sensor-768x576.png 768w" data-hd-height="450px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="note-callout">The new filament sensor does not detect clogging but is much more robust and reliable for Autoload and run-out detection.</div>
<h3>Autoload</h3>
<p>Autoload is a function that, if the hotend is heated, will start the loading procedure once filament is detected. This can be turned ON and OFF from <em>Settings -&gt; Autoload</em>, on the LCD-panel. The filament sensor must be turned on, from the same menu, to be able to utilize the Autoload feature.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you are doing a cold pull or troubleshooting the extruder and hotend it may be wise to disable Autoload.</div>
<h3>Running out of filament</h3>
<p>If you run out of filament, the printer will automatically pause the print, move the X-carriage away from the print and prompt you to unload the remaining few centimeters of the material from the heatbreak and replace the spool and insert a new filament.</p>
<h4>The printer will guide you on how to resume printing safely:&nbsp;</h4>
<ol>
<li><em>"Please press the knob to unload the filament"</em> = Press the knob to unload the remaining few centimeters of the filament.</li>
<li><em>"Repeat unloading filament?</em>&nbsp; <strong>[Yes/No]</strong> = If everything went well, press <strong>[Yes]</strong>. If not, then press <strong>[No]</strong>. The printer will lock the x-axis motor and will allow you to open the extruder idler to clear the remains of the filament manually.
<ol>
<li>To open the extruder idler, simply release the spring screw running through the extruder, holding the idler-door.</li>
<li>Then, you can use the bundled pliers to remove the filament remains. If some of it got stuck in the top PTFE tube, simply push it out with new filament.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Close the extruder idler by re-tightening spring tensioned screw. The Head of the screw should be about flush with the plastic parts when the filament is loaded.</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li><em>"Insert filament and press the knob"</em> = Make sure to insert the same type of filament, cut the tip of the filament and insert the filament and press the knob.&nbsp;</li>
<li><em>"Changed correctly?"</em> <strong>[Yes/Filament not loaded/Color not clear]</strong> = If everything went fine and the new filament is coming out nicely (and has the right color), simply select <strong>[Yes]</strong>. If you think that the filament was not loaded properly, select <strong>[Filament not loaded]</strong>, which will push through the same amount of filament as before. If the color is not clear, then select <strong>[Color not clear]</strong>, this way it will push through only a bit of filament.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you are uncertain of the readings from the sensor you can check its readings from Support -&gt; Sensor Info, on the LCD-panel.</div>
<h3>Troubleshooting</h3>
<p>If you encounter any problems with loading or detection by the filament sensor, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ir-filament-sensor-troubleshooting-mk2-5s-mk3s_112226">please see our troubleshooting article</a>.&nbsp;</p>


IR Filament Sensor (MK2.5S, MK3S)


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>Initial release for Original Prusa MMU3</li>
</ul>



<ul>
<li>MMU3 firmware support</li>



<li>Features by the Prusa community
<ul>
<li>E3D Revo support</li>



<li>Meatpack support</li>



<li>Do not preheat the heatbed on load/unload</li>



<li>Features and translations</li>
</ul>
</li>



<li>Support for G-Code M850</li>



<li>First Layer Calibration - nozzle diameter</li>



<li>PrusaLink improvements</li>



<li>Build environment with cmake</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.13.0 (3.0.0)


<ul>
<li>XYZ calibration fixed</li>
</ul>


3.13.1 (3.0.0)


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MMU3

Downloads

Firmware 3.13.1 (3.0.0)

Drivers & Apps 2.6.1

Handbook 1.0

How to

Assembly Instructions