<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade <br /></strong></p>
<p>The current lead time is <strong>1-2 weeks </strong>for both xLCD versions. </p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Prusa CORE One shipping table</h3>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 963.875px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 60.875px;">
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>  Order date</h4>
</td>
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Estimated shipping</h4>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 33px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 33px;">
<p>  19.11.2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 33px;">
<p>from 31.1.2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  20.11.2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 7 (starts February 10, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  21.11.2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 7 (starts February 10, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  22.11.2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 8 (starts February 17, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  23.11.2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 8 (starts February 17, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  24.11.2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 8 (starts February 17, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W48 2024 - from November 25, 2024 </p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 9 (starts February 24, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W49 2024 - from December 2, 2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 10 (starts March 3, 2025) </p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W50 2024 - from December 9, 2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 11 (starts March 10, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W51 2024 - from December 16, 2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 11 (starts March 10, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W52 2024 -  from December 23, 2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 12 (starts March 17, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W1 2025 - from December 30, 2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 12 (starts March 17, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W2 2025 - from January 6, 2025</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 13 (starts March 24, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W3 2025 - from January 13, 2025</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 13 (starts March 24, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W4 2025 - from January 20, 2025</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 13 (starts March 24, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W5 2025 - from January 27, 2025</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 14 (starts March 31, 2025)</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: January 28th, 2025 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p></p>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 930.875px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 60.875px;">
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Product</h4>
</td>
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>3-4 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/S+ to MK3.5S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1 week</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S kit</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL<br /></strong>(Prusa XL Assembled 5-toolhead 3D Printer)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks<br /><strong>(2-3 weeks)</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit<br />(for MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)<br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />(for MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3S+ &amp; MK3.5/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 week</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MINI Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK Enclosure </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

Infill patterns

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

Different nozzle types

<p>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink are two remote printing solutions developed in-house by Prusa. Its origin is in the management system used in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/guinness-world-records-1096-original-prusa-3d-printers-running-at-the-same-time_30677/">record-sized print farm located in Prague HQ.</a></p>
<ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Prusa Connect</strong> is a cloud service for remote printing available from anywhere.</li>
<li><strong>PrusaLink</strong>* is the client-side running locally on your printer, accessible from local network</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<p><em>*formerly known as Prusa Connect Local</em></p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>Prusa Connect (<a href="http://connect.prusa3d.com">connect.prusa3d.com</a>) allows you to control your individual printers or even manage a print farm from anywhere in the world.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/9f18d1552ef82ea7ef4960a43a86a17b.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained" alt="" width="900" height="607" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of Prusa Connect interface (cloud service)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>It is available for free to the owners of selected Original Prusa printers (see the list below). You get a free 1 GB of cloud storage for your G-codes and telemetric data. The full list of features and pricing for end customers or businesses will be announced later on.</p>
<p>Furthermore, Prusa Connect is able to monitor the use of each printer individually, providing valuable statistics of your production environment. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is PrusaLink?</h2>
<p>Much like <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/about-octoprint_1790">Octoprint</a>, this remote printer-management system runs locally on your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/12af6bd49830e088.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink and Prusa Connect explained" alt="" width="1451" height="800" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of PrusaLink interface (local network)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Its main goal is to provide communication between your printer and the Prusa Connect cloud. The secondary function is to provide a web interface, which can be used on your local (home) network only. Simply paste the printer's IP address into your web browser to access it. Using PrusaLink alone you can monitor your printer, upload G-codes, start or cancel a print. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>How to install and configure PrusaLink and Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>To use the Prusa Connect, you have to first set up the PrusaLink on your printer. The guides below will take you to step by step through the entire process.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 135.328125px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>FDM printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa<strong> MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK3/S/+</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">via RPi / RPi Zero (GPIO</a>/<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK2.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">via RPi (USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>XL</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>MINI / MINI +</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>SLA printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1S SPEED</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<h3>Next-gen Original Prusa printers</h3>
<p>Such as the<strong> MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+, SL1/SL1S </strong> as well as the other upcoming models have the PrusaLink built-in. You can connect the printer either using Wi-Fi or a wired LAN (Ethernet) network. Note that on MINI/+, you have to first <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">install the Wi-Fi module</a> to use the wireless functionality.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL, MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL, MINI/+)</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">Installing Wi-Fi and PrusaLink (MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">PrusaLink (SL1/S)</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S</h3>
<p>In this case, the PrusaLink name also refers to the required hardware solution of a Raspberry Pi (RPi). These printers don't have enough performance, therefore additional hardware is required. PrusaLink is a replacement for the discontinued <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusaprint-rpi-zero-and-octoprint_2180">PrusaPrint solution</a> (Octoprint and the RPi Zero W).</p>
<h4>Which Raspberry Pi should I get for my i3 (MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S)?</h4>
<p>For your MK3/S/+, you need to get a Raspberry Pi (RPi) to make the PrusaLink and Prusa Connect work. The supported RPi boards are listed below and if you are about to purchase a new one, it is highly recommended to seek the latest generation, as the older ones might be slower.</p>
<p>On MK3/S/+, you can attach the RPi Zero <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">directly onto the printer’s mainboard</a> or use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a>.<br />On MK2.5/S, you have to use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a> to the RPi. Then, the PrusaLink and PrusaConnect setup is fairly similar to the MK3/S/+.</p>
<p>Since the RPi doesn't have internal storage, you need to get a MicroSD card. Recommended SD card: Micro SD, SDHC standard, Class 10, 8GB or more. Preferably, choose a name-brand card known to work with RPi. Do backups regularly as even a name-brand card doesn’t guarantee you won’t lose your data. </p>
<p><strong>Supported boards (GPIO connection on Einsy Rambo)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Supported boards (USB connection)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi 4</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3+</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Unsupported boards</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero (without Wi-Fi) and older</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 2 and older</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>What not to do while RPi Zero W/2 is connected and the printer is powered up:<br /></strong><br />- Don't move any of the printer's axes by hand! Use the Move Axis menu only.<br />- Don't connect or disconnect the RPi.<br />- Don't insert or remove the microSD card inside the RPi.<br />- Don't touch the RPi board.<br />- For connecting or powering the RPi, don't use any other methods than the ones endorsed by Prusa.<br />- Only follow the guidance from the official documentation issued by Prusa Research.<br />- Prusa Research is not responsible for any damage done by or caused to third-party hardware.</div>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect setup (MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">PrusaLink/Prusa Connect with RPi 3/4 (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-update-prusalink-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_650837">How to update PrusaLink (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Other guides related to Prusa Connect and PrusaLink:</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/camera-setup-for-prusalink-prusa-connect_470943">Camera setup for PrusaLink / Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/camera-compatibility-rpi-prusalink_654918">Camera compatibility (RPi + PrusaLink)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/esp-camera-for-prusa-connect_390199">ESP Camera for Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/sending-files-from-prusaslicer-to-prusalink_222961">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to PrusaLink</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sending-g-codes-to-printer-via-network-prusaconnect-prusalink-octoprint_196761">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to printer via network (Prusa Connect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-telegram-notifications-setup_529662">Prusa Connect - Telegram notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-discord-notifications-setup_536115">Prusa Connect - Discord notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-slack-notifications-setup_536172">Prusa Connect - Slack notifications setup</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-set-a-static-ip-address_695648">How to set a static IP Address</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-connect-to-rpi-via-ssh_658030">How to connect to RPi via SSH</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/connecting-original-prusa-sl1-sl1s-to-prusaslicer_133977">Connecting SL1/S to PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">Internet Connection (SL1/S)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_419630">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (XL firmware up to 4.7.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_420001">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (XL firmware up to 4.7.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-local-mini_133279">Prusa Connect Local (Firmware 4.0.5 - 4.3.4, via Ethernet, Obsolete guide) (MINI/+)</a> <br /> <br />  </li>
</ul>
<h3>Octoprint / Other / 3rd-party projects:</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/octoprint-setup-on-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_646395">Octoprint setup ( MK4 / MK3.9 / MK3.5 / XL )</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182">Octoprint Configuration and install (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/about-octoprint_1790">About Octoprint</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-ESP32-Cam">ESP32 Cam for Prusa Connect (GitHub)</a></li>
</ul>


Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool to Five-Head Upgrade

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool to Dual-Head Upgrade

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head to Five-Head Upgrade

Original Prusa XL Enclosure

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Printer troubleshooting

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

Multi-material slicing

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

2. Printer preparing

2. Base & Side frame assembly

2. Printer unboxing

2. Enclosure assembly

3. Printer upgrade

3. CoreXY & Back assembly

3. Printer set up

3. Nextruder disassembly

3. Detaching the Nextruder

4. Heatbed & Side panels assembly

4. PSU & electronics assembly

4. Nextruder upgrade (Multi-Tool)

4. Nextruder upgrade

4. ToolChanger assembly

5. Nextruder upgrade (Single-Tool)

5. Nextruder & accessories assembly

5. Tool-changer assembly

5. Extruder & accessories assembly

5. First run

5. ToolChanger assembly

5. Nextruder upgrade

Manual changelog XL Dual-Head (Semi-Assembled)

6. First run

6. Extruder & accessories assembly

6. Enclosure secure

Manual changelog Five-Head (Assembled)

4. First run

6. Nextruder & accessories assembly

Manual changelog XL Enclosure kit

Manual changelog XL Dual-Head (Assembled)

Manual changelog

7. First run

6. PSU & electronics assembly

Manual changelog XL (Dual-Head to Five-Head upgrade)

7. Nextruder & accessories assembly

Manual changelog (Single-Tool to Dual-Head Upgrade)

8. First run

Manual changelog Five-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Manual changelog XL (Single-head to Five-head upgrade)

2A. Printer Unboxing

2B. Printer Unboxing

<p>Each Original Prusa printer is shipped with a bundle of sample G-codes. These G-codes are tested and tailored specifically for your printer model and can be used to see the printer's capabilities or troubleshoot.</p>
<p>Find your printer in the table and download the zip archive. The model geometry (.stl/.3mf) and the presliced version (.gcode) are included.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find all our sample prints, including the printable parts of our printers, on our <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Prusa3D/collections/">Printables page</a>.</div>
<h2>Original Prusa FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 639.687px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.3333px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21.3333px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21.3333px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21.3333px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21.3333px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8889px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 20.8889px;">CORE One</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 20.8889px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 20.8889px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/COREOne_Sample_Models.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 20.8889px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/COREOne_Sample_Gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MK4S/MK3.9S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK39S-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK3.9S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MK4/MK3.9</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-gcodes.zip">link</a>*</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 28.7986px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 28.7986px;">MK3.5/S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 28.7986px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 28.7986px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 28.7986px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3.5-S_Sample_Gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MINI+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MINI</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">XL 1T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 2T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 5T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU3 &amp; MK4</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MMU3 &amp; MK4S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK4S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1111px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1111px;">MMU3 &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1111px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1111px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1111px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2S &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MMU2S &amp; MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2 &amp; MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27.1944px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 27.1944px;">MMU2 &amp; MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 27.1944px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 27.1944px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU1 &amp; MK2</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK2MMU-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>*The archive includes G-codes for both MK4 and MK3.9 printers. G-codes are sliced for Input Shaper and older non-Input Shaper firmware. To print the Input Shaper G-codes, please make sure your printer is running <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware 5.0.0 or newer</a>.</em></p>
<h2>Original Prusa SLA Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 73px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Prusa Pro FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 31px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 10px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 10px;">Prusa Pro HT90</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 10px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/HT90-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>


Sample G-codes

<p><strong>Layer shifting</strong> is a printing issue that causes the layers of the printed object to <strong>shift from their intended positions.</strong> It is usually associated with an abnormal movement of the X-axis and/or the Y-axis, leading the extruder head to be misaligned mid-printing. </p>
<p>In order to troubleshoot the issue correctly, it is crucial to recognize in which axis the layers shifted. See the three photos below demonstrating three different kinds of layer shifts. Troubleshooting is the same for both axes. </p>
<p>Layer shifts are most often caused by the wrong tension of the belts or pulleys not being secure. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/x-axis.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="222" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/y-axis-jpg" alt="" width="395" height="264" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 400px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/staircase-jpg" width="600" data-hd-height="400px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK-series</h3>
<h4>Check your printer’s power mode</h4>
<p>Run the printer in <strong>normal mode</strong> rather than in the <strong>stealth mode</strong>. You can change the <strong>power mode</strong> in <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings. </em></p>
<p>The stealth mode is perfect for small and simple objects. For bigger or more complex prints, the normal mode is recommended. Also, note that in stealth mode, the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-detection_2100">Crash detection</a> feature is not available. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/2019-03-27-18-21-09-tiskov-chyby-update-1-google-docs.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="123" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/51651372bb4e202388cfbe608416a5ae.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Layer shifting REVIEW (XL, MK4)" alt="" width="395" height="263" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3/S/+</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Make sure the extruder and the heatbed can move freely</h4>
<p>Make sure there are <strong>no obstructions</strong> in the path of the extruder or heatbed and their bearings. For example, there might be a piece of filament stuck around the belt (usually around the Y-axis pulley) from your previous prints. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction-300x162.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction-600x324.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction-768x415.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pulley-obstruction-800x432.jpg 800w" alt="pulley obstruction" width="654" height="354" loading="lazy" /><em>Picture taken on an MK3/S/+</em></p>
<p>Another instance of obstruction is when the zip ties, or other parts of the extruder cable bundle, are not optimally positioned as indicated in their respective <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/attachment/ltlznibfugnpwtwy-jpg_272">assembly guide</a>. If the cables hit the frame before the extruder assembly (MK3 and higher) or before the X end-stop (on MK2/S or MK2.5) the printer detects an inaccurate end position. See the photo below and make sure the cables are arranged accordingly. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ziptie.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ziptie-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ziptie-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ziptie-768x576.jpg 768w" alt="ziptie" width="656" height="492" loading="lazy" /><em>Picture taken on MK3, the same principles apply on other MK-series printers.</em></p>
<p>Verify if the smooth rods don't bear any deep scratches and if the bearings are properly lubricated. Clean the smooth rods with a clean paper towel before applying lubricant. </p>
<p>The optimal lubricant is our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/">Prusa Lubricant</a>. A lithium-based, general-purpose <strong>grease</strong> also works well. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods-300x87.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods-600x173.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods-768x222.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/smoothrods-800x231.jpg 800w" alt="smooth rods" /></p>
<h4><strong>Check your X/Y axis motors and pulleys</strong></h4>
<p>Make sure the X and Y <strong>motors</strong> are tightened in the motor mount, that the <span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>pulley</strong></span> is secured on the motor shaft and aligned with the pulley on the opposite end, and that the pulley can move freely. <strong>Both grub screws</strong> need to be tight, <strong>one of them has to be tightened against the flat part of the motor shaft.</strong> A loose or misaligned pulley is usually the main cause of staircase layer shifts.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/motor-shaft.png" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p>Both pulleys on both axes also have to be <strong>aligned</strong>, meaning the motor pulley has to be well <strong>centered and the belt has to be moving in a straight line,</strong> not traveling from right to left while the pulley is turning.</p>
<h4><strong>Check the tension of your belts</strong></h4>
<p>Check your <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mk3-s_112380">belt tension</a>.</p>
<p>On MK-series printers, a quick way to check it is using our <a href="https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/">belt tuner</a>, with the instructions in the video below.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oeq2MVxE_H8" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<p>On MK3/S/+, it is possible to check the <strong>Belt Status</strong> numbers via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Support -&gt; Belt Status</em>. </p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;">While there is not a precise ideal value, from our experience, the best approximate value is around 250 on the X-axis, and 275 on the Y-axis, with an optimal range at +-15 from these values on either axis. </span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;">The value does not represent a physical quantity, but an arbitrary number inversely proportional to the motor load. The values are with the consideration that the assembly is good and that the parts are in good condition and properly lubricated. Values may not be accurate if there are other problems. </span></p>
<ul>
<li>If your value is <strong>under</strong> (or close to) 240, you need to <strong>loosen</strong> the belt</li>
<li>If your value is <strong>over</strong> (or close to) 290, you need to <strong>tighten</strong> the belt</li>
<li>The values are updated every time you run the Selftest or run the belt test in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Belt test</em>. </li>
</ul>
<p><span style="color: #000000;">Other MK-series models</span> do not have the belt status option. The clue we can give you is that the belt should sound roughly like a low bass string when plucked. It should be possible to pinch the two sides together with your thumb and index finger, but you should feel a little bit of resistance.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">The plastic parts holding the belts can get loose over time.</div>
<p>Use the following technique to test if the pulley is correctly tightened and if the belt is not too loose. Hold the X-axis motor shaft with pliers (take advantage of the flat part of the shaft) and try to move with the extruder. The same procedure can be applied to test the Y-axis pulley and belt. There should be no slack from the belt or any axis movement during the procedure, if there is, then the belt is too loose. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/2019-08-21-16-07-05-f-jmg-pa-bdtv-ruqf-11-full-1600-1200.jpg" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<h3>Original Prusa MINI/+</h3>
<p><strong>Check your printer’s speed.</strong> </p>
<p>When printing large objects, it’s recommended to decrease the printing speed. During a print, go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Tune -&gt; Speed</em> and decrease the number.</p>
<p><strong>Check the X/Y belts. </strong> </p>
<p>Make sure that belts are properly tightened. A quick to check this aspect is using our <a href="https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/">belt tuner</a>, with the instructions in the video below. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oeq2MVxE_H8" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<p>Belts should be tight enough to sound like a low bass note when plucked. If the belts are loose, tighten them first: first, loosen the two screws as depicted below. Then, tighten the two screws at the very end of the X-axis. They go directly against the metal rods, so the more tightened they are, the further you move the plastic part. Once you are done, tighten the first two screws again to fix the part in place.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435-300x127.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435-600x255.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435-768x326.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tighten_belts-1024x435-800x340.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1024" height="435" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p><strong>Check X/Y axis pulleys. </strong></p>
<p>Both pulleys on both axes also have to be aligned, meaning the motor pulley has to be well centered and the belt should be perfectly straight. Check whether the X-axis belt is not brushing against printed parts.</p>
<p>Make sure <strong>nothing is blocking the movement of your axis</strong> – Check for any obstructions in the path of the bearings or any possible waste from previous printings stuck around the belt (usually around the Y-axis pulley).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirt_in_Y-1024x614-800x480.jpg 800w" alt="" width="750" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Loose X/Y-axis belt pulley</h4>
<p><strong>If the set-screw on the belt pulley has come loose or it was not secured on the flat side of the motor shaft, it can slip and may cause issues with the axis not moving perfectly in tandem with the motor's rotation.</strong></p>
<p>The set-screw for the Y-axis is easily accessed, being under the bed, but the X-axis is a bit more tricky. You can access the set-screw for the X-axis through a hole on the top of the extruder (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">picture below</span>). You will not be able to see if the set screw is aligned with the flat side of the motor-rod and <strong>tightening it will only be a temporary fix</strong>, but it is a great way of knowing if this is the issue and what needs to be disassembled.</p>
<p>If you only see shiny metal in the hole, you must rotate the motor to reveal the set-screw. Even it is loose, it will move a little with the rotation of the motor, revealing the screw. Access <em>Settings -&gt; Move Axis -&gt; Move X</em>, on the LCD-menu, and <strong>rotate the knob to spin the motor</strong>.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/c8dec273f5fe6eb5_painted-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="400" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%; text-align: center;">Use a 2 mm Allen key to tighten the set-screw of the pulleys.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Free movement of the axis</h4>
<p>Make sure the print head (the part moving along the X-axis) can move freely in the entire range. Especially the cable bundle attached to the extruder should not prevent the print head from reaching the end of the axis.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437-300x128.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437-600x256.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437-768x328.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/x-axis_movement-1024x437-800x341.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1024" height="437" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Also,<strong> verify if the smooth rods are not scratched and if the bearings are properly lubricated</strong>. Clean the smooth rods with a clean paper towel before applying lubricant. </p>
<p>The optimal lubricant is our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/">Prusa Lubricant</a>. A lithium-based, general-purpose <strong>grease</strong> also works well. </p>
<h3>Original Prusa XL</h3>
<h4>Belt tension</h4>
<p>Using the guidelines in the dedicated article, check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-xl_401793">belt tension</a>. </p>
<p>Ensure that the belt clamps are in good visible status. To access them, <span style="color: #000000;">remove the front cover</span> and check the clamps for visual damage. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none; height: 320.25px;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 299.361px;">
<td style="width: 48.8562%; height: 299.361px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/a7d5edec2785a836_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; height: 299.361px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/03f1d59501e2bdd2de919953d8477b44_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8889px;">
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center; height: 20.8889px;"><em>Single-tool XL</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center; height: 20.8889px;"><em>Multi-tool XL</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/b44ebe0d9b0cb0857164cae5bcae0532_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Layer shifting REVIEW (XL, MK4)" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>XY motor pulleys</h4>
<p>Though rare, if one of the motor pulleys loosens over time it will misalign and contribute to inconsistent movement. The pulleys are positioned differently on each of the two XY motors.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Left<br /></strong>
<ul>
<li>Note the orientation of the pulley. The teeth for the belt are <strong>below </strong>the <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>set screws</strong></span>.</li>
<li>The pulley is <span style="color: #843fa1;"><strong>2.5mm higher than the start of the flat part of the motor shaft</strong></span>. Use the 2.5mm Allen key for reference.</li>
<li>Alternatively, <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>measure the distance between the beginning of the motor shaft and the pulley</strong></span>, 3.6mm.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Right</strong>
<ul>
<li>Note the orientation of the pulley. The teeth for the belt are <strong>above </strong>the <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>set screws</strong></span>.</li>
<li>The pulley is <span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>flush with the top edge of the motor shaft</strong></span>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/1d38d986578f927a292af40736078b32_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/35de8c3be98fcfb6eb1cf032a8c89ff6_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3><strong>Print geometry and settings</strong></h3>
<p>Objects with <strong>overhangs</strong> are generally harder to print. Some overhangs might even warp upwards during the print, and the nozzle might crash into them. The same can happen in some cases if you choose a <strong>very small infill percentage</strong> when slicing the 3D model.</p>
<p>To prevent printing overhangs, you can cut the object (check out our article on the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779">Cut tool</a>). You can also try to increase the <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>print fan speed</strong></span> or increase the retraction length in PrusaSlicer. Print fan speed is found in <em>Filament settings -&gt; Cooling</em> and retraction length in <em>Printer Settings -&gt; Extruder 1.</em></p>
<p>screenshots</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/8126824a2ef39ad4_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="386" loading="lazy" /></p>

Layer shifting

<p>The blob (mass of plastic accumulated around the hotend) is one of the most scary-looking printing problems you might face with your 3D printer. Removing it after it happens is quite tricky, though not impossible.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that damage caused by the blob is <strong>not covered by the warranty</strong> as it is neither hardware nor software related. It can be prevented by properly calibrating the printer as well as by stopping the print as soon as the filament starts to stick to the nozzle.<br />See the <strong>Safety Instructions</strong> on the 3D Printing Handbook bundled with each of our printers. <strong>Do not leave the printer unattended while it's switched on.</strong></div>
<p>We prepared a short video on how to remove an extruder blob. The video features our Original Prusa MK3, but the same principles of heating the filament blob in order to soften it and carefully removing it with pliers <strong>apply to all our FDM printer models.</strong> </p>
<h3>How to clear the extruder blob</h3>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mSmJKjibMT0" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before doing anything, please note that the cables of the hotend thermistor and the heater cartridge are most likely entangled in the blob. The heater cartridge cable in particular is very vulnerable as <strong>its insulation ends before the wire enters the cartridge body. </strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Preheat the nozzle in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. The temperature needs to be approximately 30°C higher than the temperature at which the blob has formed. For example, if the blob is made of:
<ul style="list-style-type: square;">
<li><strong>PLA: </strong>preheat to 250<strong>°</strong>C</li>
<li><strong>ABS/PETG:</strong> preheat to 280<strong>°</strong>C</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">On MK3/S/+, it is also possible to preheat the printer through the <em>Preheat</em> menu, but note that a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/thermal-model-calibration_382488">Thermal anomaly error</a> might happen.</div>
<ol>
<li>If <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/mintemp-error-and-mintemp-bed_2169">MINTEMP</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/preheat-error_2163">Preheat error</a> message appears on the LCD, it means the thermistor or the heater cable (respectively) is already broken. In this case, your only option is to use a heat gun to heat the plastic. Work very carefully, you don't want to melt the printed parts surrounding the hotend. Clear the blob little by little.</li>
<li>After the hotend reaches the right temperature, leave it this way for at least 5 minutes. <strong><em>Turn the printer off before the next step, or you might cause an electrical short.<br /></em></strong></li>
<li>Smaller blobs will start to fall off by themselves. As for the bigger ones, use a pair of pliers to remove the now soft plastic mass from the hotend carefully. Again, be very cautious around the leads coming from the hot end, in particular, the thermistor leads.<em><strong><br /></strong></em></li>
<li>Once the big chunks of the amassed plastic are removed, use a small brass brush to get rid of what's left (as shown in the video above).</li>
<li>In case you do not succeed, as well as in case the blob has damaged some of the extruder parts, you can find your spare parts <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/18-spare-parts">here</a>. To see the spare parts section, you have to be logged into the account you used to purchase the printer.</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong>How to prevent this problem from happening</strong></h3>
<p>Unlike the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/spaghetti-monster_1999">Spaghetti monster</a> issue, the blob issue often occurs early during the print. In general, the blob forms if the first layer detaches from the print surface and sticks to the moving hot nozzle while it keeps extruding, causing the blob to grow.</p>
<p>In order to prevent this situation from happening, bear in mind these simple rules:</p>
<ul>
<li>Always make sure to <strong>clean the print surface</strong> before starting the print. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804"><u>this guide</u></a> for more details.</li>
<li>Take the time to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364"><u>adjust the first layer height</u></a> at the beginning of the print. Make sure that the first layer is sticking properly to the entire print surface.
<div class="tip-callout">This step does not apply to Original Prusa MK4, MK3.9, XL, as they are equipped with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">loadcell</a>, although minor first layer adjustment is still possible on these printers. </div>
</li>
<li><strong>Check the print every now and then.</strong> If you observe any potential problem, pause the print and give yourself the time to solve it. As a last resort, you can always stop the print, adjust the settings, and start again.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Silicone sock</h3>
<p>Consider installing a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/nextruder-silicone-sock-xl-mk4-mk3-9_641415">silicone sock</a>. This is <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-nextruder-silicone-sock-set/">available in our shop</a> for <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL</strong>. Although the component does not prevent extruder blobs, in case this occurs, it makes it easier to remove it. </p>


Extruder blob

<p>Bridging is a term for printing layers over thin air without the use of supports. It may sound like an impossible feat, but with our printers, it’s not that difficult. Keep in mind that the best results are achieved only over short distances because the printer’s fans need to cool the extruded plastic mid-air in order to create a solid connection. There are three key settings for printing good looking bridged layers: PrusaSlicer settings, speed, and cooling.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-800x533.jpg 800w" alt="" width="675" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>The typical problem of bridging layers is sagging or drooping as seen in the photo above.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>How to fix it</strong></h3>
<p>To access some settings/parameters in PrusaSlicer, you must be in 'Advanced' or 'Expert' mode. You can switch to a different mode using the buttons in the right panel or by going to <em>Configuration -&gt; Mode -&gt; Simple/Advanced/Expert</em>. For more information please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Simple, Advanced, Expert modes</a>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/simple_advanced_expert_mode-600x316.png" alt="" width="400" height="211" loading="lazy" /><strong>Bridging flow</strong></p>
<p>The best way to prevent the layers from breaking in bridging mode is to change the “Bridging flow” setting in the PrusaSlicer. The first bridging layer should be done with a lower flow of the material. Open the settings in PrusaSlicer by right-clicking the model, then go to Object settings – Advanced – Bridge flow ratio. We recommend using lower speed for printing bridges and also lower bridging flow. The idea is to “pull” the string of extruded filament behind the nozzle, so it drops less. The ideal approach is to download bridging test models, for example, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476845">this</a> one, put it in the slicer several times, and set up a different flow for every model. This should be a relatively quick way how to find correct settings for your printer/material without the need to perform many test prints.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344-300x101.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344-600x202.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344-768x258.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridge_flow_ratio-1024x344-800x269.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1024" height="344" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4><strong>Tweak the speeds in PrusaSlicer</strong></h4>
<p>Right-click the object in the 3D view or click on the <strong>Editing</strong> icon in the Object list to open the context menu. Then select Add settings - Speed - Bridges and tweak the speed for printing bridges.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344-300x101.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344-600x202.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344-768x258.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridges_speed-1024x344-800x269.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1024" height="344" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Enforce supports half-way through the bridge</h4>
<p>If the bridge is very long, you can use support enforcers to create a support island half-way through. Right-click on the model in the 3D view and select Add support enforcer - Box. Then transform the box using the move, rotate and scale tools.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-600x222.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-800x296.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-300x111.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-768x284.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bridging-4-1536x568.jpg 1536w" alt="" /></p>
<h4><strong>Change the orientation of the object</strong></h4>
<p>The best solution is to <strong>change the orientation of the object</strong> (rotate it) until you get rid of the bridges completely and you don’t have to worry about bridges or supports. It won’t be possible in many cases, but the rule of thumb here is to try to avoid bridges and supports completely.</p>


Poor bridging

<p>This refers to the de-lamination of the printed layers. It is mostly caused by an incorrect preset/(custom)profile with wrong temperatures and/or too much cooling from either the print fan or the sorrounding environment.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Layer-separation is more an issue from the "old days" of unheated print-beds and less accessible materials, past ABS. This is rarely an issue on the MK-series hardware with PrusaSlicer presets, especially with materials like PLA and PETG.</div>
<p>It’s not difficult to tell the difference between cracking and missing layers. Best way to identify cracked layers are the clean cuts that show a bit of an upward bend or warp.</p>
<p>Layer separation occurs when the object cracks due to forces exerted on the print when layers cool down at different rates. Warping forces exceed the layer adhesion strength and the layers separate.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp-600x400.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp-800x534.png 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Layersepp.png" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3><strong>How to prevent Layer separation and Splitting</strong></h3>
<p>ABS is highly susceptible to layer separation when there’s any sort of cold air blowing on the print before it has cooled down fully. We suggest turning fans OFF for ABS prints completely.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>ABS is best printed in an enclosed chamber</strong> (even heated). <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/">Here we made one from an Ikea Lack table</a>.</div>
<p>Please remember that you may probably not be able to print objects covering the whole print area using ABS, so it is better to replace ABS with PETG filament. PETG has similar advantages ABS, but it’s much better for printing large objects and it does not have the same tendency to crack/de-laminate. ASA is also a great alternative but is still more dependent on a stable environment when printing than PETG. You can check the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/material-guide_220">material guides</a> for choosing the best material for your print.</p>
<p>PLA may suffer from cracking and layer separation problems if you’re printing with insufficient temperature. Depending on the brand, PLA is printed at a range between 195-220. If you are having issues, <strong>try increasing the printing temperature in 5°C increments, until you get a good layer adhesion.</strong></p>
<h3>Flow-rate / extrusion multiplier</h3>
<p>Increase your printer’s flow rate (in PrusaSlicer called extrusion multiplier). More material extruded will create a stronger bond between layers. increase on 5% increments. For more info please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration_2257">Extrusion multiplier calibration</a>.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Extrusion-multiplier is located where you set temperatures, but only accessible when PrusaSlicer is set to Advanced- or Expert-mode</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


Layer separation and splitting FDM

<p>Generally speaking, it’s always the best option to rotate the object in such a way that the supports are not needed at all. However, if you need to print complex objects, you will end up using supports anyway. After you remove the support structure, you may notice that the surface above the supports looks worse than the rest of the print.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface-300x154.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface-600x307.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface-768x393.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-surface-800x410.jpg 800w" alt="" width="878" height="450"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>The picture above shows the artifacts that can appear if print settings are not optimal</em></p>
<h3>How to fix bad looking surface above supports</h3>
<p>Again, try to <strong>rotate the object in PrusaSlicer</strong> and find a better orientation that would require fewer supports.</p>
<p>You may also consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779">Cut tool</a>, to print two parts more easily, which you then glue together.</p>
<h3><strong>Support settings</strong></h3>
<p>In order to make the supports easier to break off from the printed object, a small gap is left between the support and the object’s surface. If you decrease the gap, you may get better results, but the supports may be more difficult to remove.</p>
<p>You can tweak the values for supports in PrusaSlicer, section <em>Print Settings – Support material</em>. Try fine-tuning Contact Z and Decrease pattern spacing to improve the quality of the surface.</p>
<p>Another good thing to try is to increase the number of interface layers to 3-4. You will have a more solid top-surface of your support, which can also make the contact-point of the support easier to remove.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set-300x290.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set-414x400.jpg 414w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set-768x742.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Support_set-621x600.jpg 621w" alt="" width="518" height="500"></p>


Bad looking surface above supports

<p>A print coming from molten plastic one might assume that it is water-tight, but that is not always the case. How to make an object look good and what makes it watertight does not always overlap. That said, the tips presented here might help you make your printed parts more robust, even if they should not be a container for liquid.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Watertight does not mean <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food safe!</a></strong> Foodsafe 3d prints is (potentially) another can of worms!</div>
<h3>Geometry</h3>
<p>The shape of the model obviously matters. Thick walls which require infill is often waste in this case. It can cause irregularities and may leak into the void between the inner and outer walls, creating a place where all kinds of nasty stuff can grow.</p>
<p><strong>A wall should be even.</strong> Artifacts like protrusions for showing the water-level etc. can cause issues. In the picture below is a PLA print where everything is water-tight, except by a little nubbin for this purpose.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Watertight-prints-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Watertight-prints-01-253x300.jpg 253w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Watertight-prints-01-338x400.jpg 338w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Watertight-prints-01-768x910.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Watertight-prints-01-506x600.jpg 506w" width="378" height="447" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Perimeters</h3>
<p>More of them! You want to go with <strong>at least 3-4 perimeters for a single wall.</strong> Depending on the geometry you can also increase this to 5-6, but is rarely necessary.</p>
<h3>Temperature</h3>
<p>More of if it! To ensure a proper bond between the layers we would recommend raising<strong> the Nozzle-temperature with 5-10C</strong> over the presets available or use the highest recommended temperature on the box of the filament (You can also go about 5c above this). Some experimentation needed.</p>
<h3>Extrusion-multiplier</h3>
<p>This refers to the flow rate of the filament and is set in PrusaSlicer under Filament Settings. <strong>Increase this by 5-10 percent from the default value.</strong> Another way of manipulating this is to set the line width 5-10% wider (i.e. from 0.4mm to 0.44mm), but this can affect other aspects of your print. If in doubt experiment, or do the simple option.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/db0b678340a4d704ff652cbf9ed6530d_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Watertight prints" width="550" height="372" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Layer-height</h3>
<p>Very high layer-heights just won't do, but having very tight layers will also increase the number of places where something can go wrong. <a href="https://youtu.be/fbSQvJJjw2Q">CNC-kitchen</a> found that the most durable prints were a<strong>t 0.15mm height, but 0.2 will do fine.</strong> If you want to print fast and have very high layers (like 0.4mm+) get a larger nozzle. Generally, for best results, you should not use a height of more than 60-65% of your nozzle width.</p>
<h3>XY-Overlap and other settings</h3>
<p>This applies more to if your print leaks from the bottom, and you have tested with the previous suggestions. XY-Overlap is a variable in PrusaSlicer that says how much a line of solid infill crosses the perimeter. This is by default set to 10% (of nozzle diameter, so 0.04mm). Increasing the temperature and extrusion multiplier will affect this, but if you still see leakage you can try to increase this to 25-35%.</p>
<div class="note-callout">This XY overlap is meant to be used with the standard Monotonic line top fill pattern, which requires less overlap.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/cadcc7b5512be69b14e450926dc34c85_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Watertight prints" width="550" height="346" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Materials</h3>
<p>These tricks should work with most materials. These tricks might not be necessary on materials like ASA or ABS if you smooth them with acetone.</p>


Watertight prints

<p>Ghosting can be typically recognized by several waves that follow after a sharp edge of a model. An example can be seen in the photograph of 3DBenchy at the marked spot.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-benchy.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-benchy-300x199.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-benchy-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-benchy-768x510.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-benchy-800x532.jpg 800w" alt="" width="719" height="478"></p>
<h3>How to fix ghosting (MK2/2.5/S and MK3/S):</h3>
<p><strong>Adjust belt tension on X and/or Y axes</strong>. It may take a bit of time to find the perfect belt tension. We can offer the following tip: try plucking the belt like a guitar string. You should hear a deep bass tone. A belt that has been tightened more will emit a higher tone. A less tightened belt will result in a lower tone.</p>
<p>You can also check the <strong>Belt Status values</strong> which can be found in the printer’s LCD menu. Go to Support -&gt; Belt Status and check the measured values. Values between 240 and 300 are fine. These values are updated each time you run the Selftest (<em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Selftest</em>), or that you run a belt test (<em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt;</em> Belt test). A lower value means more belt tension, a higher value means a more loose belt. For more information about how to change the belt tension, check the guide <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mk3-s_112380">Adjusting belt tension (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MK3/S/+)</a>.</p>
<h3>How to fix ghosting (MINI):</h3>
<p><strong>Check the X/Y belts.</strong> Make sure that belts are properly tightened. Belts should be tight enough to sound like a low bass note when plucked. If the belts are loose, tighten them first: first, loosen the two screws as depicted below. Then, tighten the two screws at the very end of the X-axis. They go directly against the metal rods, so the more tightened they are, the further you move the plastic part. Once you are done, tighten the first two screws again to fix the part in place. For more information about how to change the belt tension, check the guide <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mini-mini_157324">Adjusting belt tension (MINI/MINI+)</a>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-tighten_belts.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-tighten_belts-300x127.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-tighten_belts-600x255.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-tighten_belts-768x326.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ghosting-tighten_belts-800x340.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3>General advice:</h3>
<p>The problem of ghosting can be visible also <strong>when belts are properly tightened</strong>. Ghosting is caused by vibrations that increase with print speed. To reduce ghosting, try to <strong>reduce the printing speed</strong> and see if the problem goes away. It’s always better to place the printer on a firm surface.</p>


Ghosting

<p>The <strong>filament sensor</strong> equipped on the <strong>Original Prusa MK4/S, </strong><strong>Original Prusa MK3.9/S, and each tool of Original Prusa XL</strong> detects the presence of a filament and filament run-out. The sensor is a Hall sensor, triggered by a mechanism composed of a spring, a magnet, and a ball. </p>
<p>If an MK4/S or MK3.9/S is upgraded to the MMU3, some of the Nextruder components are modified, including the mechanism that triggers the filament sensor. In these printer versions, the mechanism does not rely on a system of spring, magnet, and ball, but is based on the idler tension bolt. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/961d724774263fdc78c6b50694c1bede_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Check assembly (MK4/S, MK3.9/S)</h3>
<p>If your printer is an <strong>MK4</strong> or <strong>MK3.9</strong>, you have received a package with magnets for the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-nextruder-assembly_434014">assembly</a>. On MK4S and MK3.9S, this subcomponent comes pre-assembled in the heatsink.</p>
<p>Note that two magnets are sent, but one is meant to be used in the assembly, and the other is a spare. If your filament sensor does not work, check if two magnets have not been added by accident.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100.0%; height: 20.8px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<td style="width: 48.7906%; height: 20.8px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/ce79d19c2b7f073247216deb1a06d29b.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament sensor (MK4, MK3.9, XL)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7906%; height: 20.8px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/e5fa0bc557e7822ea3d544fda40735da.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament sensor (MK4, MK3.9, XL)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>How to clean the filament sensor</h3>
<p>During usage, filament residue might build up around the sensor or its mechanism, possibly causing false readings and thus malfunctioning.</p>
<h4>1) Compressed air</h4>
<p>At the top of the extruder is a small hole, insert the tip of a compressed air can in the hole. With your free hand, prepare a bit of filament with a non-stringy tip. Repeatedly insert and remove the filament from the extruder, while blowing the compressed air. This will dislodge the build-up debris.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/5ac2eee63621ff1e9030242fe03fa27c.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament sensor (MK4)" alt="" width="500" height="376" loading="lazy" /><em>Top view of the MK4 print head. The XL print head has a similarly positioned small hole.</em> </p>
<h4>2) Filament tip insertion</h4>
<p>In case you don't have compressed air at hand, a similar procedure to the one above can be attempted.</p>
<p>Prepare a bit of filament with a non-stringy tip. Repeatedly insert and remove the filament from the extruder. It will be necessary to insert and remove the bit of filament several times to achieve good cleaning, and the technique might not always be effective. </p>
<h4>3) Removing the sensor (MK4/S, MK3.9/S)</h4>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The following procedure is NOT recommended on Original Prusa XL</strong>. If you are experiencing issues with the tool filament sensor readings, and the previous methods did not work, please contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">technical support</a>, and we will guide you through the procedure in more detail. </div>
<div>If the previous techniques do not work, the filament sensor can be removed to be manually cleaned. This procedure requires partial disassembly of the E-axis. </p>
<p>Ensure to have the <strong>PG-assembly-adapter</strong> before continuing with the following procedure. If you do not have it, you can print it using the below files, depending on the printer you will use: <br /><a href="https://files.printables.com/media/prints/451501/stls/4104840_55cb7d05-d1f6-4cca-8159-db9ac9f62942/pg-assembly-adapter-mk4-r1.stl?_gl=1*1d00bdg*_ga*MTA4NDA4MDUzNi4xNjg0NTIwNjY3*_ga_3HK7B7RT5V*MTY5MjM1ODUwNC4yNTYuMS4xNjkyMzY0ODI0LjQ5LjAuMA..">PG-assembly-adapter printed with MK4</a><br /><a href="https://files.printables.com/media/prints/451501/stls/4240522_6fa05937-693e-4282-8dce-a98d3e93fd5f/pg-assembly-adapter-mk3-r2.stl?_gl=1*1d00bdg*_ga*MTA4NDA4MDUzNi4xNjg0NTIwNjY3*_ga_3HK7B7RT5V*MTY5MjM1ODUwNC4yNTYuMS4xNjkyMzY0ODI0LjQ5LjAuMA..">PG-assembly-adapter printed with MK3/S/+</a></p>
</div>
<ol>
<li>Unload the filament, then wait for the printer to fully cool down. After that, turn the printer off.</li>
<li>Remove the PG-case, together with the PG-ring, gearbox, and main plate. Remove all of these parts in one piece.</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100.0%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/1c7df54642bb103d2a7d3ed01b41cbff_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament sensor (MK4)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/67c593556671a61a79c52036477d3454.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament sensor (MK4)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="3">
<li>Remove the <span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>Prusa-ball-holder</strong></span> using pliers.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/996ae1c0879279ce1b6ef35f1a255938_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament sensor (MK4)" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>Carefully remove the ball-magnet-spring combo from the Prusa-ball-holder and clean any debris out of it. Clean also the slot on the heatsink.</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100.0%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/f45b4fba6e937fd81675038dcecea760.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament sensor (MK4)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/889dc9c32adf0b651409f0322dbaf4bb.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament sensor (MK4)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="5">
<li>Reassemble the Prusa-ball-holder in the following order: steel ball, magnet, and spring.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/3503abc8b32f3010a3353ee5d62941ac_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament sensor (MK4)" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="6">
<li>Reassemble the block with PG-case, PG-ring, gearbox, and main plate.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">In case the disassembled parts in step 6 are not in one block, refer to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-nextruder-assembly_434014#434652">steps 7-15 of the Nextruder assembly guide, part of the MK4 kit assembly guide</a>. </div>


Filament sensor (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, XL)

Prusa Connect &amp; PrusaLink

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>During the configuration of <strong>Prusa Connect</strong> on the <strong>Original Prusa MINI/+</strong>, <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</strong> or <strong>XL</strong> an error on this configuration can occur and the printer shows the message "<strong>Registration to Prusa Connect failed due to: ~</strong>". In place of <strong>~</strong>, a text with more details is shown, from the list below. Depending on the specific shown text, there are different causes and fixes. </p>
<p>Error name: Connect Registration Failed</p>
<p>Error code: #12401 (MINI), #13401 (MK4), #26401 (MK4S), #21401 (MK3.9), #23401 (MK3.5), #17401 (XL)</p>
<h4>DNS error</h4>
<p>The printer wasn't able to resolve the <strong>hostname</strong> of the Prusa Connect server into an IP address. The hostname is a unique label assigned to a device connected to a network. </p>
<ul>
<li>The printer is not connected to the network at all.</li>
<li>In case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>DNS server</strong> is not configured or configured incorrectly.</li>
<li>The local DNS server is currently not working.</li>
<li>The Connect hostname is reconfigured to some that doesn't exist. For example, this can occur if loading a .ini file with an invalid configuration.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Refused</h4>
<p>It's not possible to reach the server on the network level, hence it is not possible to establish a TCP connection. The system is either not answering at all or actively refuses the connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>The internet connection is not working, or a firewall blocks the communication.</li>
<li>In the case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>gateway </strong>(typically, this is the IP address of the router) is not configured or configured incorrectly. </li>
<li>The Connect server is under maintenance. </li>
<li>Too many TCP connections are open with the printer, for example in PrusaLink. </li>
</ul>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>This message points to an error doing a <strong>SSL/TLS handshake</strong>. This handshake is the process to create a safe and encrypted connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>Time is not synchronized on the printer (MINI/+). The time synchronization occurs for each internet connection, through the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ntp-server-mini_151132">NTP server</a>. It is possible this might take more time than initially expected, or rarely, that there might be issues with the server. </li>
<li>A restrictive firewall (for example but not limited to a corporate proxy firewall) may restrict an automatic access to the NTP server. In that case, it will be necessary to manually allow the printer to access the NTP server.</li>
<li>Something in the path is trying to tamper with the communication, for example but not limited to an attack. </li>
</ul>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>The server claims that the printer is not authorized. The printer is not recognized as an Original Prusa. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>The server is returning a <strong>500 Internal Server Error</strong> or similar. The issue is on the Connect side, and is expected to be fixed on its own. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by an issue related to the printer firmware. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Similar to the Refused error, but the connection dropped after it was initialized. </p>
<ul>
<li>Glitchy internet connection.</li>
<li>The <strong>latency</strong> to the Connect servers is too high. A geographic location is very far from our Connect servers can contribute to this cause.</li>
<li>The Connect server is temporarily down.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>The response from the server is not recognized.</p>
<ul>
<li>Bug on the server side. This cause is on our side and expected to be fixed on its own. </li>
<li>Too old firmware on the printer and it's no longer supported.</li>
<li>A misconfiguration from the <strong>.ini file</strong> loaded on the printer, connecting to something different than our Connect server.</li>
</ul>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>DNS error, Refused</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is connected to the internet. In case of a static (non-DHCP) connection, ensure the correct settings are there, or test a DHCP connection. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file. </p>
<p>If the previous steps didn't fix the issue, attempt a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/factory-reset-mini_177516">factory reset</a>. </p>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>Reattempt the Connect registration, after the printer is connected to the internet for a few more minutes. </p>
<p>If the previous step didn't fix the issue, double-check your network <strong>firewall</strong>. Some firewalls will need for the NTP server to be allowed manually. The specific steps will depend on your specific firewall, we recommend checking your firewall documentation. </p>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>If your printer is not an Original Prusa printer, it cannot use our Prusa Connect service.</p>
<p>In case your printer is an Original Prusa, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784"> re-flash or update its firmware</a>. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>A server error indicates an issue from our side. The issue will be fixed on its own, try registering again to Prusa Connect later. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">Re-flash or update the printer firmware</a>. If this does not solve the issue, take note if the printer might have other issues, even if not directly related. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Ensure that your internet connection is stable and not glitchy. To confirm whether an inconsistent internet connection caused the issue, test another connection, if available, such as a hotspot from your mobile phone. </p>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is running our latest firmware version. If it is running an old version, update the firmware. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file.</p>


Connect Registration Failed

<p>Supports are an important part of a 3D-printed object, especially when printing a model with a complex shape. If support material breaks, it is likely to cause a failure on the whole print. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fallingsupports-1-768x768.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="600" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>PrusaSlicer shows a warning message if <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>stability problems are detected on a model</strong></span>. In most cases, the solution is adding support material. Typically, support material is added on big or highly sloped overhangs.</p>
<p>More info on support and related settings is on the dedicated <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/support-material_1698">support material article</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779">splitting the model into multiple parts</a> in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently, the amount of support generated.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/86f4e24bcef26abd30f50ae82cece52c_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="600" height="389" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3><strong>How to prevent failing supports</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Avoid isolated or scarce support towers </strong>
<ul>
<li>For Grid and Snug supports, by reducing the <strong>pattern spacing</strong>.</li>
<li>For Organic supports, by increasing the <strong>branch density</strong>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Reduce printing speed for supports in PrusaSlicer, section <em>Print settings –&gt; Speed</em>.</li>
<li>Use a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969">Brim</a> around our support, found within <em>Print settings –&gt; Skirt and Brim</em>.</li>
<li>Use a different support <strong>pattern</strong>. In PrusaSlicer, section <em>Print setting –&gt; Support material –&gt; Pattern</em><strong>. </strong>
<ul>
<li>The rectilinear pattern is set by default and is the easiest to remove.</li>
<li>The rectilinear grid pattern is sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to the rectilinear pattern and is harder to remove.</li>
<li>The honeycomb pattern is sturdy and somewhat difficult to remove.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Change the value of the Overhang Threshold. The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90° = vertical).</li>
<li>Use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">custom supports</a>, tailored to your model.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Speed, skirt and brim settings location</h4>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/68972787ac72aba266a55ab618f36747.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="395" height="242" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/fe80ba5bc697915d96d169c67a3c3f79.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="395" height="242" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Support settings location</h4>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/e966d29ae3c608a9b32ca048f6fe645a.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="395" height="494" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/54a3b275f13b5890d00d34ba23856ea9.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Failing supports REVIEW" alt="" width="395" height="494" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Failing supports

<p>The Prusa CORE One, and the Original Prusa XL, MK4/S, MK3.9/S are equipped with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">loadcell</a>. Thanks to this component, starting from firmware 6.0.0, the printer can detect whether the filament is stuck and not moving, for example when the nozzle is clogged. </p>
<p>If this is detected, the print pauses and the printer shows the message: "<strong>Stuck filament detected. The filament seems to be stuck. Please unload it from the extruder and load it again</strong>." </p>
<p>Once the <strong>unload </strong>button is pressed, the printer unloads the filament. After this, it prompts filament loading and resumes the print. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is important to note that detecting stuck filament is possible only inside the Nextruder, as pressure builds up from the nozzle to the upper part of the Nextruder. However, if your filament is tangled on the spool, there will be no internal pressure, just outside tension, which the loadcell won't recognize.</div>
<div>Stuck filament detection won't be possible on MK3.5 and MINI/MINI+ as they aren't equipped with the loadcell sensor.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/e884e31f8ae9e52017bacbeb8fcd544e.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Stuck filament detection #13101 (MK4) #21101 (MK3.9)" alt="" width="500" height="333" loading="lazy" /><em>Screenshot from the Original Prusa MK4</em></p>


Stuck filament detection #31101 (CORE One) #26101 (MK4S) #13101 (MK4) #27101 (MK3.9S) #21101 (MK3.9) #17108 (XL)

<p>This guide will help you solve the most common issues with the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-and-prusalink-explained_302608">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect</a> on your Original Prusa Printer.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+</h3>
<p><strong>Wi-Fi connection status</strong></p>
<p>For the Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI+, and MINI models, the Wi-Fi connection status is displayed at the top part of the LCD screen, indicated by an icon:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>White Icon</strong> (<span style="color: #0000ff;"><strong>blue arrow</strong></span> in the image below): Indicates a successful Wi-Fi connection.</li>
<li><strong>Grey Icon</strong>: Wi-Fi is active but not connected to the access point.</li>
</ul>
<p>For detailed connection status, navigate to <strong>Settings &gt; Network &gt; Wi-Fi &gt; Status</strong> in the menu. (<span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>orange arrow</strong></span> in the image below) These statuses provide insights into the Wi-Fi connectivity and troubleshooting steps for common issues:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Connected</strong>: The printer has successfully connected to the network.</li>
<li><strong>Link down</strong>: The printer is connected to the Wi-Fi access point but hasn't obtained an IP address. This could be due to a weak signal, interference, absence of DHCP server on the network, or similar issues. A short "Down" period might occur as part of the normal connection process, so waiting a bit often resolves this.</li>
<li><strong>No AP</strong>: The printer is not connected to any Wi-Fi access point, possibly due to a weak signal, incorrect credentials, or compatibility issues (e.g., the printer’s ESP Wi-Fi module can only connect to 2.4GHz Wi-Fi, not 5GHz-only access points).</li>
<li><strong>ESP error</strong>: Indicates a communication breakdown between the ESP Wi-Fi module and the printer’s main board, potentially due to an ESP firmware crash or a connection issue. The printer will reboot the ESP module automatically to resolve this. If the error recurs, user intervention may be required, such as replugging or reflashing the ESP.</li>
<li><strong>Gone</strong>: The ESP module is either unplugged or does not have an appropriate firmware installed.</li>
<li><strong>Flash ESP</strong>: The connected ESP module has outdated or incorrect firmware and needs updating / reflashing.<br />Select "Setup Wi-Fi Module" item in the same menu. The printer will automatically re-flash the ESP module firmware as a part of the setup wizard.</li>
</ul>
<h4> </h4>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/555e58e4f3b6522b94ec5fdfcc969165_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink Troubleshooting - Review" alt="MK4 / XL Wi-Fi connection status" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>The browser login does not work</h4>
<p>Attempt the login using another browser, some browsers might have issues with the PrusaLink login. </p>
<h4>The printer does not establish a connection (8+ minutes)</h4>
<p>Double-check the credentials in the prusa_printer_settings.ini file, and load them again in the USB drive. In each field, ensure that there is no space before and after the = character. Having the following special characters as part of the SSID would also cause the connection to not be established, make sure they are not part of the SSID: </p>
<ul>
<li>- (Dash)</li>
<li>_ (Underscore)</li>
<li>' (Apostrophe)</li>
<li>. (Dot)</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/782027dd534617cf_painted.png" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>On the <strong>MINI/+</strong> with firmware version up to 4.4x, the prusa_printer_settings.ini file might show an extra row, ensure that this is not changed (key_mgmt=WPA)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/646e334be3da2dd0_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S</h3>
<h4>Bad X-Api-Key</h4>
<p>If <strong>PrusaLink </strong>is selected in PrusaSlicer, it is necessary to enter an <strong>API key</strong>. For PrusaLink 0.7.0 or higher, the API key can be found in Prusa Connect, in the Settings tab, on older versions it is shown during the PrusaLink Wizard. Alternatively, select <strong>HTTP digest</strong> for authentication and add your PrusaLink username and password.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/be235d272b70fcd5d86012f40daf4598.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink Troubleshooting" alt="" width="600" height="490" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>500 internal server error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by the printer serial number not being written properly on the printer Einsy board EEPROM. The solution is copying the serial number to the Einsy EEPROM, with the following procedure: </p>
<ol>
<li>Connect a power bank, a USB charger, or another source of power (excluding a computer) to the printer USB type B port.</li>
<li>With the printer switched on, press the reset button. </li>
</ol>
<h4>Some options in printer detail are not available</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the printer is online and ready</li>
<li>If you do not see any options at all, make sure you have the correct version 0.6.1 of the PrusaLink SD card image flashed to your RPi. In case of doubt, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#222170">download the PrusaLink SD card image again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>“ERR: NO IP” on LCD</h4>
<ul>
<li>Wait for up to 5 minutes, sometimes it shows the IP later.</li>
<li>Make sure you have Wi-Fi within reach and in 2.4 GHz.
<div class="note-callout">5GHz Wi-Fi is not supported.</div>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>, making sure you have the name and password entered correctly in Pi Imager settings.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The IP address is not shown</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the RPi port option in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; RPi port</em> is ON. </li>
<li>Check that the green LED is on or flashing at the bottom right corner of the RPi.
<div class="warning-callout">If the green LED is not on or flashing, the RPi is not working. Review the soldering of the pins, and make sure the pins are long enough. You can test the Pi by connecting it to USB power, but make sure it is not connected via pins to the Einsy board in that case!</div>
</li>
<li>Check that the SD card can be accessed on your computer. Try a different computer if possible, or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Credentials cannot be saved on RPi Imager</h4>
<p>Ensure that the network has a password. A network without a password cannot be saved on the RPi Imager.</p>
<h4>White/blank screen after finishing the Wizard</h4>
<p>Make sure you are logged in on <a href="https://connect.prusa3d.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">connect.prusa3d.com</a>.</p>
<h4>Forgotten login/password to the Link’s website or printer accidentally removed from Connect</h4>
<p>It will be necessary to go through the wizard again. Remove the prusa_printer_settings.ini file from the folder /home/pi, and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</p>
<h4>Flashing takes a long amount of time (20+ minutes)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using a Class10 micro SD card or better. Slow microSD cards affect the speed of the flashing.</li>
<li>Some computers, especially old ones, may have a slow SD card reader. Try the USB reader, if available.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The wizard is slow (2+ minutes to load the next page)</h4>
<ul>
<li>PrusaLink might be still loading. Wait for a few minutes and try again.</li>
<li>Make sure your computer and your printer are connected to the very same network. For example, if your computer is connected by cable and your printer is connected via WiFi, it can cause this issue.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The LCD shows “Starting PrusaLink” after 5+ minutes (MK3/S/+)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads" target="_blank" rel="noopener">firmware version</a>.</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Slow uploading of the G-code to PrusaLink</h4>
<p>The upload speed is limited while printing to prevent slowing down the print.</p>
<h4>The Wizard can’t get the serial number from the printer (Err obtaining SN)</h4>
<p>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware version</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer Support</a> if the previous step is not solving the issue. </div>
<h4>Error bad token</h4>
<div>This may occur if you use PrusaLink on a different printer than the one it was set up with. In this case, make a fresh PrusaLink installation.</div>
<h4>Err unsupported FW</h4>
<p>Upgrade the printer to the latest firmware.</p>


PrusaLink Troubleshooting

<p>During normal function, your printer saves statistics, calibration data, and personalized settings, even after it is turned off. If you feel like you changed settings that have negatively affected your 3D printer, you can always revert to factory default values and try again. </p>
<div class="note-callout">Doing a factory reset will clear statistics data, like total printing time and filament use.</div>
<h3>How to factory reset</h3>
<p>Factory Reset can be done via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; System -&gt; Factory Reset</em>. </p>
<p>Starting firmware 4.6.1 there are two options:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Reset Settings &amp; Calibrations</strong> - this option deletes all changes done by the user and reverts the system to its original state. For most of the cases, this is a sufficient method. Technically speaking only the EEPROM with user stored data is deleted. Once, the reset is done, the printer will boot to language selection, followed by the calibration wizard.</li>
<li><strong>Hard reset (USB with FW needed)</strong> - due to the complex partition layout, the firmware stores its settings not only in the EEPROM but also on the XFLASH. In some edge cases, it might be necessary to delete both of these. Once this reset is done, the user must insert a USB drive with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-core-one-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_453086">firmware</a> as some parts of the XFLASH will be created again from scratch.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Flashing firmware</h3>
<p>If you see any inconsistent behavior we recommend also flashing the firmware.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-core-one-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_453086">CORE One, MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">MINI/+</a></li>
</ul>
<p>A factory reset followed by flashing the firmware and recalibrating will resolve most firmware issues you may encounter. </p>


Factory reset (CORE One, MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MINI/+, XL)

<p>A clogged nozzle or hotend is a common issue for FFF/FDM printers. If there are no issues, the filament is pushed in the hotend, melted, and then extruded through the nozzle. However, if the nozzle is damaged or there are impurities in the filament it might get stuck in the hotend, clogging the printer.</p>
<h3>How to spot clogged nozzle/hotend?</h3>
<h4>Visual check</h4>
<ul>
<li>Is the filament reaching the nozzle? Check if the filament goes past the Nextruder gear.</li>
<li>Is the filament coming out of the nozzle? Pay attention when loading the filament.</li>
<li>Partial clog - gaps and missing layers</li>
<li>Partial clog - filament curling up and sticking to the nozzle</li>
</ul>
<h4>Soundcheck</h4>
<p>Check if there are clicking noises from the extruder</p>
<ul>
<li>If there is a loud clicking noise, this most likely suggests the nozzle is clogged or deformed </li>
<li>If there is a light clicking noise, this can most likely point to the gearing</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/81f35c769288a087.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Clogged hotend (XL)" alt="" width="400" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Partial clog</h4>
<p>Sometimes the clog is partial, meaning that the printer is able to push some filament through, but it is not enough to print the object properly, leading to visible gaps and missing layers. An early sign of a clogged nozzle is that the filament is not extruded consistently, curls up, and sticks to the nozzle.</p>
<h4>Extruder clicking</h4>
<p>The hotend or the nozzle is partially or fully clogged and the internal resistance against the flow of the filament is greater than what the gears are able to push. As a result, the gears are skipping leading to the “clicking” noise and in most scenarios also to the grinding of the filament.</p>
<h3>How to fix the clogged printer? </h3>
<p>Choosing the right method depends on whether <strong>you are able to at least partially load/unload the filament or whether the printer is fully jammed</strong> and refusing the move the filament even a little.</p>
<p>Before you start fixing the printer, try unloading the filament and removing it completely. If you are unable to do it, it might indicate a more serious problem, but we will deal with this one as well.</p>
<p>Also, move the heatbed downwards from <em>LCD Menu - Control - Move Axis - Z-axis</em> or by long-pressing the control knob, this way you will get better access to the parts that are clogged.</p>
<h4>Extruder idler screws</h4>
<p>The extruder includes two idler tension screws, to set the correct distance between the drive gear and the two driven gears. These are set to the optimal position at the factory. In case of an intervention on that part, you can adjust the idler tension screws to their optimal position: the tips of the screws must be aligned with the front surface of the Idler Nut. After that, close the Idler Block.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/DSC_3455-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Clogged hotend (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Gears</h4>
<p>Over time, a deposit of filament debris can form in the grooves of the feeding gear, which then causes insufficient filament extrusion. Access the extruder by lifting the Idler Nut, and then moving the Idle Shaft. You can blow away the dirt with compressed air, or use a brass brush or an ordinary toothpick. Use the access hole on the side of the extruder. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/XL_Extruder_PrimaryGear_TipTensionBolts.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Regular printer maintenance (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Nozzle </h4>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not touch the hotend while the printer is at a hot temperature.</strong> <strong>Heated parts can cause severe burns!</strong> </div>
<div>Follow these steps to clean the nozzle: </div>
<ol>
<li> Heat the nozzle to the appropriate temperature according to the filament material you will be printing from. First, introduce the filament, then insert an <strong>acupuncture needle</strong> (included in the package) or a thin wire (0.3-0.35 mm) into the nozzle from below to a depth of approximately 1-2 cm. <strong>Use protective gloves if material suddenly starts to flow from the nozzle</strong>.</li>
<li> Select the Load Filament option from the LCD menu and check that the nozzle is actually pushing the filament.</li>
<li> Insert the wire or acupuncture needle into the nozzle again and repeat the whole procedure several times. If the filament is extruded correctly, the nozzle is clean.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>


Clogged hotend (XL)

<p>Selected Original Prusa printers are equipped with status LEDs located on the lower edge of the LCD screen. Together there are three physical RGB LEDs. The system will change their color and intensity based on the current scenario. The purpose of this system is to provide helpful visual information to the user.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">To ensure the LEDs are visible even from a longer distance. Make sure there is a solid, reflective surface under the front edge of the LCD screen.</div>
<p> </p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/a0ba9c14ecc0e9e72b88673c7bd5c4b7.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Status LED explained" alt="" width="800" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Compatible printers:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4</li>
<li>Original Prusa XL</li>
</ul>
<h3>There are several pre-defined scenarios for the LEDs:</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Successful boot</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> The boot of the system was assessed as successful.</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs will pulse shortly with a <strong>green color.</strong></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Warning</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> The printer requires user interaction and then can continue to print (e.g. planned filament change, filament runout, pause in G-code, MMU requires attention, etc.)</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs will pulse in <strong>yellow color</strong>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Critical error</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> There is a serious error, and the print job cannot continue. The printer must be fixed in order to work correctly (e.g. Thermal runaway, Preheat error, Max/Min temp, ...)</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs will pulse in <strong>red color</strong>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>The print job is in progress</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> The printer is currently in the progress of printing the selected G-code.</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs are switched to <strong>blue color</strong>. </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>The print job is done</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scenario:</strong> The current print job has finished successfully, the print head is parked and the printer is awaiting the user, to collect the printed object. Please note that the <strong>sheet might be still hot! </strong>Avoid harming yourself<strong> </strong>and also give the surface a few moments to cool down to allow easier detachment of the print.</li>
<li><strong>LED response:</strong> The LEDs are switched to <strong>green color</strong>.</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h3>Use-defined LED statuses</h3>
<p>LEDs can be controlled using a G-code M150, you can learn more about it at <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M150.html">Marlin FW site</a>.</p>


Status LED explained (MK4/XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The message <strong>"Extruder preheat error: Check the heater and thermistor wiring for potential damage"</strong> is shown when the printer is unable to heat up the nozzle more than 2 ºC for 20 seconds. The printer starts a safety feature, which instantly kills the heating process and displays the message on the screen. The printer then waits for the user to inspect all parts and if needed fix the issue.</p>
<p>Error name: Hotend preheat error</p>
<p>Error code: #17202</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Most often, this error happens due to wiring damage or connection issue on the hotend heater cable. Less often, it might be caused by the hotend thermistor wiring and connection. </p>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Before breaking out the multimeter you should check the Dwarf board, where the thermistor and heater reside, to ensure that no wires have broken off, or are disconnected. </p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before you start, make sure:</p>
<ul>
<li>the filament is unloaded from the extruder</li>
<li>the printer is turned OFF and unplugged from electricity</li>
<li>the hotend and the heatbed are cooled down to ambient temperature</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="note-callout">Because we will handle tools and work with the extruder high above the heatbed, it is necessary to protect it.</div>
<p>Place an empty Prusament cardboard box approximately to the front center part of the heated. Move the X-axis all the way to the front side of the printer, and move the extruder approximately to the center of the X-axis.</p>
<p>Open the dwarf-cover-door to access the Dwarf board.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/dc053446459b18b4711ea5b21c3b0c74.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Extruder preheat error #17202 (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Check that all the connectors are secure in their sockets, according to the picture below. Focus on the thermistor and heater cables. Though unlikely, rough shipping or handling could have shaken the heater or thermistor cables loose. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/020196d1dade2d87f7b71350ce347761_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Extruder preheat error #17202 (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Checking the resistance</h4>
<p>The table below describes the correct resistance for each part, as well as what scale you should set your meter to. The hotend thermistor is rated to be <strong>100 kΩ at 25 °C.</strong> To be realistic, with a varying temperature between 20 °C and 30 <strong>°</strong>C, <strong>you can expect a wider range of readings (~80-125 kΩ).</strong></p>
<p>There can be micro-fractures in the cable, breaking the connections only at certain positions. Therefore, try to move the cable a bit while doing the measurement and see if the value changes drastically.</p>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<h5>Part</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<h5>Resistance</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<h5>Multimeter scale</h5>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Hotend thermistor </p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[80 kΩ - 125 kΩ]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200kΩ</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Hotend heater</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[12.3 Ω - 15.1 Ω]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200Ω</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The part should be cold (room temperature) and unplugged when measuring the resistance!</strong></div>


Extruder preheat error #17202 (XL)

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>During the configuration of <strong>Prusa Connect</strong> on the <strong>Original Prusa XL</strong>, an error on this configuration can occur and the printer shows the message "<strong>Registration to Prusa Connect failed due to: ~</strong>". In place of ~, a text with more details is shown. </p>
<p>Error name: Connect Registration Failed</p>
<p>Error code: #17401</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<p>Follow the instructions in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/connect-registration-failed_654926">Connect Registration Failed guidepost</a>, common to our printers with Buddy firmware, with more details on possible causes for this error and their solutions. </p>


Connect Registration Failed #17401 (XL)

<p>To achieve good quality prints, it is fundamental that the nozzle can make the right amount of contact with the print surface. In case this is not achieved, the printer will show the message "<strong>nozzle cleaning failed</strong>". </p>
<h3>How to fix it</h3>
<h4>Nozzle cleaning</h4>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>CAUTION</strong>: Heated parts can cause severe burns!</div>
<p>Check if the nozzle has residue. Debris on the nozzle or heater block can affect its thermal properties. To clean it, heat the nozzle for three to five minutes at 250 °C, as the remains of the filament must be warmed up slightly so that they can be removed more easily.</p>
<p>Use a small brass brush to clear away any old plastic stuck on the nozzle and heaterblock.</p>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout">
<div>Avoid contact of the brush with the hotend cables, as this could cause a short circuit.</div>
</div>
</div>
<p><strong>Caution: the printer is still at a hot temperature! Wait until the hot parts are cooled down to ambient temperature. It takes approximately 10 minutes.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/6bcecf61055d009b_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Nozzle Cleaning Failed (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Steel sheet cleaning</h4>
<p>Make sure that the steel sheet is clean of any residue. For the smooth, textured, or satin sheet, clean with 90% or higher percentage isopropyl alcohol (IPA).</p>
<h4>Check if the nozzle is not loose</h4>
<div class="warning-callout">Before proceeding further, make sure that the printer is <strong>FULLY COOLED DOWN AT ROOM TEMPERATURE</strong>, and <strong>OFF</strong>! </div>
<p>On single-tool XL, after <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>removing the x-carriage cover</strong></span>, hold the heater block <strong>(make sure that the nozzle is not heated!)</strong>, and <strong><span style="color: #ba372a;">use the Torx TX8 key</span></strong> as shown in the picture to tighten the set screw. Do not use extra force while tightening, it may damage the hotend tube. The nozzle must be approximately at a <span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>35°-40° angle</strong></span> to avoid damaging the hotend cables.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/eddd406fd9a07bf6_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/2f1281fee89b9362_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>On multi-tool XL, identify the tool that has the nozzle to be checked, and park it. Hold the heater block (<strong>make sure that the nozzle is not heated!</strong>), and use the Torx TX8 key <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>in the part shown in the picture</strong></span> to tighten the set screw. Do not use extra force while tightening, it may damage the hotend tube. The nozzle must be approximately at a 35°-40° angle to avoid damaging the hotend cables.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/3ce1d1b154d7efa2ddbba4894efc1ad4_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Nozzle Cleaning Failed (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Check the Z-axis bearing housing</h4>
<p>The Z-axis bearing housings are the end-stop for the Z-axis. It is important to have a tiny clearance between the <strong>Z-axis bearing housings</strong> and the <strong>heatbed frame</strong> when the printer is at the top position.</p>
<p>This way, during the mesh bed leveling and the autohome procedures, there can be an ideal amount of tiny contact between the nozzle and the print surface. </p>
<p>Too small of a clearance can cause the <strong>Nozzle Cleaning Failed</strong> warning message to appear. In this case, in order to achieve the ideal clearance, <strong><span style="color: #236fa1;">slightly loosen the bolts</span></strong> holding the <span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>bearing housings</strong></span> in place. </p>
<p>If the warning message still appears, sightly loosen the mentioned bolts once again, keeping in mind to <strong>still have the Z-axis bearing housings</strong> <strong>reasonably tight and held in place</strong>. </p>
<p>Once you find an ideal tightness for the bolts that works and holds the Z-axis bearing housings in place, keep the change permanently. </p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not remove the bearing housings from their place! This will cause damage to the printer. </strong></div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/9040935754f075320fe59bff1368bf17_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></div>
<div> </div>


Nozzle Cleaning Failed (XL)

<p>If the filament is not loaded into the extruder, yet the printer is trying to pull the filament inside, there might be a hardware problem in some of the extruder components: we will examine the causes and fixes in this article. </p>
<h3>Retry procedure</h3>
<p>After an attempt at loading filament, the printer will prompt a screen, where it is asked if the filament color is correct. If the filament is not oozing from the nozzle at this stage, push the filament towards the extruder, and after that, select "retry". </p>
<h3>Idler tension screws</h3>
<p>The extruder includes two idler tension screws, to set the correct distance between the drive gear and the two driven gears. These are set to the optimal position at the factory. In case of an intervention on that component, it will be necessary to adjust the idler tension screws to their optimal position: the tips of the screws must be aligned with the front surface of the Idler Nut. After that, close the Idler Block.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_Extruder_Open.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament not loading (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<h3>Clogged hotend</h3>
<p>Follow the instructions on the dedicated article on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-hotend-xl_401294">how to spot and fix a clogged hotend</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>


Filament not loading (XL)


<ul>
<li>Initial release for Original Prusa XL</li>
</ul>


1.00

4.5.3


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>New Home screen </li>



<li>Homing improvements</li>



<li>Changes to Live Adjust Z</li>



<li>Footer Items settings improved&nbsp;</li>



<li>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink improvements</li>



<li>Improvements to the Factory Reset feature&nbsp;</li>



<li>Calibrations and Tests on improvements</li>



<li>Tool changer usage statistics</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


4.6.1


<p>Updated with information for semi-assembled XL</p>


1.02


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>Multi-tool support</li>



<li>Other improvements</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


4.7.0


<ul>
<li>Single tool G-code on a multi tool printer</li>



<li>Known Bugs</li>
</ul>


4.7.1


<ul>
<li>Custom nozzle diameter</li>



<li>Temperature menu reordered</li>
</ul>


4.7.2


<ul>
<li>Updated with instructions for the Original Prusa PDU</li>
</ul>


1.03


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1

4.7.5


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Printing speed boost with Input Shaper and Pressure Advance (XL and MINI)</li>



<li>Major updates to network code; Instant Printing feature</li>



<li>Major updates to Prusa Connect and network communication</li>



<li>Introducing a new efficient open-source Binary G-code format</li>



<li>New useful pre-print screen for XL Multi-Tool printers</li>



<li>Cancel object directly from the printer’s menu</li>
</ul>


5.1.0


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>Nozzle diameter in Selftest (XL)</li>



<li>Wipe tower info added (XL)</li>



<li>Sending crash dumps to Tech support</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.4</li>



<li>Firmware flashing updated</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


5.1.2


<ul>
<li>Update on the change from 0.6 mm nozzle diameter to 0.4 mm as default.</li>
</ul>


1.04


<ul>
<li>Smarter color painting</li>



<li>Improved Color change</li>



<li>Ramping travel moves</li>



<li>SLA material overrides</li>
</ul>


2.7.2


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>


2.7.4


<ul>
<li>Phase Stepping &amp; Calibration</li>



<li>Touch support</li>



<li>Stuck filament detection</li>



<li>Stealth mode&nbsp;</li>



<li>Time Zone settings updated</li>



<li>Filament Sensor Options</li>



<li>RGB Side Strip Dimming</li>



<li>Improvements by Prusa community</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.0.0


<ul>
<li>Japanese language support (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>



<li>Phase stepping fixes (XL)</li>



<li>Nozzle cleaning repaired (MK4, MK3.9, XL)</li>



<li>Stealth mode corrected (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>
</ul>


6.0.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa XL Enclosure functions (XL)</li>



<li>Improvements by Prusa community</li>
</ul>


6.0.2


<ul>
<li>Interim solution of USB disconnect issues (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>
</ul>


6.0.3


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0


<ul>
<li>Modified MCU overheat&nbsp; (XL)</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.0.4


<ul>
<li>Support for MK3.9S and MK3.5S printers</li>



<li>Numeric keyboard</li>



<li>Custom names for steel sheet</li>



<li>User-configurable hostname</li>



<li>Binary G-code check</li>



<li>ESP firmware flash during boot (MINI, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.5</li>



<li>Network Status screen</li>



<li>Steel sheet name in footer (MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Powered Z-motors during calibration procedure (MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>Default nozzle diameter set to 0.4 (XL)</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.1.2


<ul>
<li>Issues with numeric keyboard repaired (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)</li>



<li>Returned nozzle diameter setup (XL)</li>



<li>Printhead position during calibrations changed (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Cold pull (XL)</li>
</ul>


6.1.3


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.1


<ul>
<li>Multiple beds and bulk export</li>



<li>Scarf seams</li>



<li>Printables integration</li>



<li>Paint-on fuzzy skin</li>



<li>Improvements in painting tools and multi-material slicing</li>



<li>Basic support for printing with different nozzle diameters</li>
</ul>


2.9.0


<ul>
<li>Added an option to save printer logs to a text file</li>



<li>Expanded GPIO functionality (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Toolhead and hardware menu overhaul</li>



<li>Improved filament management</li>



<li>“Set Ready” button</li>



<li>Connect header status icon</li>



<li>Nozzle information for Prusa Connect</li>



<li>Mapping screen from Prusa Connect</li>



<li>Japanese language support on MINI</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa XL