SL1S

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<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical </strong>resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the <strong>XY plane</strong>, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The layer height should be below 80% of the nozzle diameter (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters.</p>
<p>The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">the spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, except the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top parts of models are usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/41556b3e1891b8d0ae47c43fb032cb68.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Layers and Perimeters REVIEW" alt="" width="600" height="128" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see some sag in the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Note that when printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<p>This option was removed in PrusaSlicer 2.6. The new algorithm is much smarter than the previous implementations and is automatically applied where needed.</p>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer ensures it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space, an infill pattern fills the void between these inside/outside perimeters. </p>
<p>Enabling <strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate a single perimeter that works as both an inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<p>This feature is automatically disabled if the <strong>Arachne perimeter generator</strong> is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historical reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick Bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em> Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan. </p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arrange them into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>Staggered inner seams</h3>
<p>This feature causes the inner seams to be shifted backward based on their depth, forming a zigzag pattern. This creates a stronger part by avoiding that the seams align.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<h3>Perimeter generator</h3>
<p>Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.</p>


Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

<p dir="ltr">The main purpose of infill is to provide internal support for top layers, which would otherwise have to bridge over empty space. Infill also affects the speed of printing, structural strength, filament consumption, and even the look of the printed object.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3>Fill density</h3>
<p>Most models can be printed with 10-15% infill. If the top of the model closes gradually, it can be printed hollow (0% infill), though we generally do not recommend it. If you need the model to be heavier, want more compression resistance or higher stiffness, you can increase the infill. You'll rarely need infill higher than 30%. Finally, you can print the model with 100% infill and the infill pattern will be forced to rectilinear. Keep in mind that 100% infill can have a negative impact on the look of the printed object.</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of <strong>perimeters (not infill</strong>). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters. That said, infill does help with compression resistance.</div>
<h3>Fill pattern</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicer offers many infill patterns to choose from - check the dedicated <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130"><strong>Infill pattern documentation page</a></strong>.</p>
<h3>Length of the infill anchor</h3>
<p>The infill is usually <strong>connected to the perimeters</strong> with a so-called anchor, which is a <strong>short line</strong> of another (inner) perimeter that turns into an infill line. This makes the infill sturdier and is required by some materials (namely PETG) to stabilize the extrusion flow at the start of an infill line.</p>
<p>The length of the infill anchor value sets how many millimeters of this anchor will connect the infill and the perimeters. If you set this value to 0, the infill will be printed independently on the perimeters. Set a higher value to print the anchor that will continue as the infill itself.</p>
<p>If expressed as a percentage (15%) it will be calculated over the infill extrusion width.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-600x334.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-800x445.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-300x167.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-768x427.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-1536x854.jpeg 1536w" alt="" /></p>
<h3>Maximum length of the infill anchor</h3>
<p>This value sets the maximum length of the infill anchor connecting the infill with perimeters.</p>
<p>Set this parameter to 0 to disable anchoring completely.</p>
<h3>Top fill pattern</h3>
<p>You can pick a custom infill pattern that only affects the top visible layer, not adjacent solid layers below. </p>
<h3>Bottom fill pattern</h3>
<p>You can pick a custom infill pattern that only affects the bottom visible layer, not adjacent solid layers above.</p>
<h3>Combine infill every X layers</h3>
<p>Different layer heights will be used for infill and for perimeters in order to speed up the print without sacrificing the print quality.<br />Example: Combine infill every 3 layers, layer height 0.1 mm, infill will be printed at 0.3 mm layer height.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The maximum layer height is limited by your nozzle diameter. If you try to combine infill every 1+ layers with 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.3 mm layer height, no change will actually happen because you cannot print layers bigger than (about) 0.32mm (80% of nozzle diameter).</div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-768x432.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-800x450.png 800w" alt="" width="699" height="393" loading="lazy" /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><em>Infill (grey) printed at double the layer height of perimeters (orange)</em></div>
<p style="text-align: center;"> </p>
<h3>Solid Infill every X layers</h3>
<p>This feature allows you to force a solid layer after every given number of layers. This can be useful to increase the strength of the printed part, however other options, such as increasing the number of perimeters or infill percentage are preferred. Another application would be to create separate internal cells in order to increase thermal insulation.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable.</strong></p>
<h3>Fill angle</h3>
<p>Default angle for infill orientation. Cross-hatching will be applied to some infill patterns.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Bridges</strong> will be printed using the best direction PrusaSlicer can detect, so this setting does not affect them.</div>
<h3>Solid infill threshold area</h3>
<p>Force solid infill for regions having a smaller area than the specified threshold.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable.</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-300x92.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-600x184.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-768x236.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-800x246.png 800w" alt="" /><em>Solid infill threshold 0 (left), 15 (middle), 100 (right)</em></p>


Infill

<p>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink are two remote printing solutions developed in-house by Prusa. Its origin is in the management system used in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/guinness-world-records-1096-original-prusa-3d-printers-running-at-the-same-time_30677/">record-sized print farm located in Prague HQ.</a></p>
<ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Prusa Connect</strong> is a cloud service for remote printing available from anywhere.</li>
<li><strong>PrusaLink</strong>* is the client-side running locally on your printer, accessible from local network</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<p><em>*formerly known as Prusa Connect Local</em></p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>Prusa Connect (<a href="http://connect.prusa3d.com">connect.prusa3d.com</a>) allows you to control your individual printers or even manage a print farm from anywhere in the world.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/9f18d1552ef82ea7ef4960a43a86a17b.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained" alt="" width="900" height="607" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of Prusa Connect interface (cloud service)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>It is available for free to the owners of selected Original Prusa printers (see the list below). You get a free 1 GB of cloud storage for your G-codes and telemetric data. The full list of features and pricing for end customers or businesses will be announced later on.</p>
<p>Furthermore, Prusa Connect is able to monitor the use of each printer individually, providing valuable statistics of your production environment. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is PrusaLink?</h2>
<p>Much like <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/about-octoprint_1790">Octoprint</a>, this remote printer-management system runs locally on your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/12af6bd49830e088.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink and Prusa Connect explained" alt="" width="1451" height="800" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of PrusaLink interface (local network)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Its main goal is to provide communication between your printer and the Prusa Connect cloud. The secondary function is to provide a web interface, which can be used on your local (home) network only. Simply paste the printer's IP address into your web browser to access it. Using PrusaLink alone you can monitor your printer, upload G-codes, start or cancel a print. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>How to install and configure PrusaLink and Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>To use the Prusa Connect, you have to first set up the PrusaLink on your printer. The guides below will take you to step by step through the entire process.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 135.328125px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>FDM printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa<strong> MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK3/S/+</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">via RPi / RPi Zero (GPIO</a>/<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK2.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">via RPi (USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>XL</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>MINI / MINI +</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>SLA printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1S SPEED</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<h3>Next-gen Original Prusa printers</h3>
<p>Such as the<strong> MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+, SL1/SL1S </strong> as well as the other upcoming models have the PrusaLink built-in. You can connect the printer either using Wi-Fi or a wired LAN (Ethernet) network. Note that on MINI/+, you have to first <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">install the Wi-Fi module</a> to use the wireless functionality.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL, MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL, MINI/+)</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">Installing Wi-Fi and PrusaLink (MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">PrusaLink (SL1/S)</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S</h3>
<p>In this case, the PrusaLink name also refers to the required hardware solution of a Raspberry Pi (RPi). These printers don't have enough performance, therefore additional hardware is required. PrusaLink is a replacement for the discontinued <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusaprint-rpi-zero-and-octoprint_2180">PrusaPrint solution</a> (Octoprint and the RPi Zero W).</p>
<h4>Which Raspberry Pi should I get for my i3 (MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S)?</h4>
<p>For your MK3/S/+, you need to get a Raspberry Pi (RPi) to make the PrusaLink and Prusa Connect work. The supported RPi boards are listed below and if you are about to purchase a new one, it is highly recommended to seek the latest generation, as the older ones might be slower.</p>
<p>On MK3/S/+, you can attach the RPi Zero <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">directly onto the printer’s mainboard</a> or use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a>.<br />On MK2.5/S, you have to use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a> to the RPi. Then, the PrusaLink and PrusaConnect setup is fairly similar to the MK3/S/+.</p>
<p>Since the RPi doesn't have internal storage, you need to get a MicroSD card. Recommended SD card: Micro SD, SDHC standard, Class 10, 8GB or more. Preferably, choose a name-brand card known to work with RPi. Do backups regularly as even a name-brand card doesn’t guarantee you won’t lose your data. </p>
<p><strong>Supported boards (GPIO connection on Einsy Rambo)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Supported boards (USB connection)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi 4</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3+</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Unsupported boards</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero (without Wi-Fi) and older</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 2 and older</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>What not to do while RPi Zero W/2 is connected and the printer is powered up:<br /></strong><br />- Don't move any of the printer's axes by hand! Use the Move Axis menu only.<br />- Don't connect or disconnect the RPi.<br />- Don't insert or remove the microSD card inside the RPi.<br />- Don't touch the RPi board.<br />- For connecting or powering the RPi, don't use any other methods than the ones endorsed by Prusa.<br />- Only follow the guidance from the official documentation issued by Prusa Research.<br />- Prusa Research is not responsible for any damage done by or caused to third-party hardware.</div>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect setup (MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">PrusaLink/Prusa Connect with RPi 3/4 (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-update-prusalink-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_650837">How to update PrusaLink (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Other guides related to Prusa Connect and PrusaLink:</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/camera-setup-for-prusalink-prusa-connect_470943">Camera setup for PrusaLink / Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/camera-compatibility-rpi-prusalink_654918">Camera compatibility (RPi + PrusaLink)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/esp-camera-for-prusa-connect_390199">ESP Camera for Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/sending-files-from-prusaslicer-to-prusalink_222961">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to PrusaLink</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sending-g-codes-to-printer-via-network-prusaconnect-prusalink-octoprint_196761">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to printer via network (Prusa Connect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-telegram-notifications-setup_529662">Prusa Connect - Telegram notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-discord-notifications-setup_536115">Prusa Connect - Discord notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-slack-notifications-setup_536172">Prusa Connect - Slack notifications setup</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-set-a-static-ip-address_695648">How to set a static IP Address</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-connect-to-rpi-via-ssh_658030">How to connect to RPi via SSH</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/connecting-original-prusa-sl1-sl1s-to-prusaslicer_133977">Connecting SL1/S to PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">Internet Connection (SL1/S)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_419630">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (XL firmware up to 4.7.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_420001">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (XL firmware up to 4.7.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-local-mini_133279">Prusa Connect Local (Firmware 4.0.5 - 4.3.4, via Ethernet, Obsolete guide) (MINI/+)</a> <br /> <br />  </li>
</ul>
<h3>Octoprint / Other / 3rd-party projects:</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/octoprint-setup-on-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_646395">Octoprint setup ( MK4 / MK3.9 / MK3.5 / XL )</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182">Octoprint Configuration and install (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/about-octoprint_1790">About Octoprint</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-ESP32-Cam">ESP32 Cam for Prusa Connect (GitHub)</a></li>
</ul>


Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained

Original Prusa SL1 to SL1S SPEED upgrade

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer is based on the MSLA printing process. Unlike Original Prusa i3 machines, this printer uses a high-resolution LCD panel and a UV LED to cure thin layers of resin to achieve an unprecedented level of detail.

Original Prusa SL1 kit assembly

Assembly manuals

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

Material guide

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Printer troubleshooting

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Left toolbar

Top toolbar

Print settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

SLA slicing

Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

2. Disassembling the SL1

3. Upgrading to SL1S SPEED

4. Firmware upgrading

5. Calibrating the printer

6. First print

7. Manual changelog

<p>Each Original Prusa printer is shipped with a bundle of sample G-codes. These G-codes are tested and tailored specifically for your printer model and can be used either to see the printer capabilities or for troubleshooting.</p>
<p>Find your printer in the table and download the zip archive. Both the model geometry (.stl/.3mf) and the presliced version (.gcode) are included.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find all the printable parts on our <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Prusa3D/collections/54487">Printables page</a>.</div>
<h2>Original Prusa FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 594px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 18px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MK4S/MK3.9S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK39S-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK3.9S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">MK4/MK3.9</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-gcodes.zip">link</a>*</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MK3.5/S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MINI+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">MINI</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">XL 1T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 2T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 5T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2S &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MMU2S &amp; MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2 &amp; MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MMU2 &amp; MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU1 &amp; MK2</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK2MMU-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>*The archive includes G-codes for both MK4 and MK3.9 printers. G-codes are sliced for Input Shaper and older non-Input Shaper firmware. To print the Input Shaper G-codes, please make sure your printer is running <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware 5.0.0 or newer</a>.</em></p>
<h2>Original Prusa SLA Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 73px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Prusa Pro FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 31px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 10px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 10px;">Prusa Pro HT90</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 10px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/HT90-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>


Sample G-codes

<p>If the print does not appear on the printing platform, nor at the bottom of the resin tank, there are a couple of possible causes:</p>
<ul>
<li>Highly insufficient exposure times</li>
<li>Old or separated resin</li>
<li>A large amount of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in the resin/on platform</li>
<li>Faulty UV LED panel,</li>
<li>Faulty print display</li>
</ul>
<h3>Insufficient/Incorrect exposure times</h3>
<p>Make sure you are using the correct preset with the recommended exposure times for your resin, in PrusaSlicer. If your resin does not have a dedicated preset, use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/resin-calibration-sl1-sl1s_112182">Resin Calibration (SL1/SL1S)</a> to determine the correct values.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Changeexposure-2021-04_13-06_4-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<h3>Old or separated resin</h3>
<p>If the resin is not stored correctly, or you use the same batch, again and again, it can lose its original properties and won’t solidify anymore. Try a new batch of resin if you kept re-using one batch several times.</p>
<p>If the resin remains in the vat for too long it can start separating its reactive components and its oil solution (notice the lines of color difference in the picture below). Even though the printer will stir the resin using its tilt platform it may not be sufficient. With a gloved finger or a spatula, carefully stir the resin until its color is uniform.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resintankSL1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resintankSL1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resintankSL1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resintankSL1-768x432.jpg 768w" alt="" height="400"></p>
<h3>A large amount of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in the resin/on the platform</h3>
<p>If the platform is still wet of IPA after cleaning when the print begins, the IPA will repel the resin and the print will not stick to the platform upon exposure. Make sure you wipe the platform dry before starting your print.</p>
<p>If a lot of IPA has dripped into the resin tank it can dilute the resin to the point where it will lose some of its properties. Empty the tank and try a new batch of resin.</p>
<h3>Faulty print display or UV LED panel</h3>
<p>Check whether the UV panel and LCD screen work as intended – Run the Display test, found at <em>Settings -&gt; Calibration-&gt; Display test</em><em>.</em> Follow the onscreen instructions.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Calibration-2021-04_13-05_0-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<p>If the logo does not appear on the display, but it is lit from the back, check the display’s wiring. To do so, remove the black cover secured by eight screws, then inspect the cable leading from the exposition (print) display. You can carefully disconnect and reconnect the cable header from the mainboard to ensure that it is seated correctly.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">See our guide for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-the-print-display-sl1_133295">replacing the print display</a>.</div>
<p>If it remains completely dark may be due to a faulty UV LED panel. Check its wiring by unplugging it and plugging it back in, making sure the connector is seated properly. Test the display again and if it still does not work it will have to be replaced.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Make sure the cooling fan for the UV LED panel is working. Without it, both the UV LED panel and print display can overheat and be damaged.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/testLCDSl1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/testLCDSl1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/testLCDSl1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/testLCDSl1-768x432.jpg 768w" alt=""></p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you need to change your print display, you need to calibrate the display to your machine. Both are <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/sl1-cw1/1276-sl1-print-display-assembly-with-uv-calibrator.html">available in the e-shop as a bundle</a>, if you do not <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/sl1-cw1/953-assembled-print-display.html">have a calibrator already</a>.</div>


Print doesn't appear / Resin does not solidify

<p>Broken supports (or missing parts of supports) are usually caused by incorrect settings in the PrusaSlicer. The supports are either too thin or the exposure time is set to a value too low. In some cases, this can be also caused by a dirty FEP film.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Try printing one of the sample objects to see whether the issue remains. If the sample object was printed without trouble, reset your PrusaSlicer settings.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-768x433.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-800x451.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">If the sample object has the same sort of trouble, inspect the FEP film in the resin tank – it may be dirty. In very rare scenarios, a faulty UV LED panel can be the cause.</div>
</div>


Broken supports (SL1/SL1S)

<p>If there is no object to be seen on the metal platform as it raises from the resin tank, it usually means that the first layer didn’t adhere properly to the platform. Let’s find the reason why it happened.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Stop the print</strong> immediately after noticing this issue to avoid any damage to the FEP film.</div>
<h3>What does it look like</h3>
<p>All or some of the objects you wanted to print are not on the printing platform. After you stop the print, unscrew and remove the resin tank and pour the resin out, you will see a blot or a flat blob of solidified resin stuck to the FEP foil.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Refer to the SL1 printed handbook, chapter 15.1, or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/removing-and-object-stuck-to-the-bottom-of-the-tank_1800">this guide</a> to see how to remove it safely without damaging the fragile film.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-1-300x203.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-1-593x400.png 593w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-1-768x518.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-1-800x540.png 800w" alt="" width="672" height="454"></p>
<h3>How to fix it</h3>
<p>There is a number of reasons why the first layer does not stick to the printing platform. Generally, they can be classified either as assembly/hardware related or as calibration/settings related reasons.</p>
<h4><strong>Calibration and settings</strong></h4>
<h4>The printer is not calibrated correctly</h4>
<p>Even if nothing changed since the last calibration of the printer - you didn’t replace any parts, and you didn’t move the printer to a new location, a re-calibration may be required. Please refer to the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-preflight-check_13824">Calibration</a> chapter for step-by-step instructions. <strong>Make sure not to skip any step!</strong></p>
<h4>Incorrect slicing settings</h4>
<div class="tip-callout">To rule out slicing-related issues, try printing a sample (pre-sliced) object from the USB flash drive.</div>
<p>Re-slice your model using default settings and try printing the object again. Always use PrusaSlicer, where we have already prepared profiles for the most used resins. We have tested over a hundred of various resins, and we’re continually testing new ones.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Make sure that you are using the recommended exposure times for the resin of your choice. The exposure times for initial layers should be much longer (e.g., 45 seconds) that the regular layers to ensure a strong connection to the printing platform.</p>
<h4>Object orientation / insufficient supports</h4>
<p>Incorrect object orientation can be another source of adhesion problems. After a layer is solidified, the printer has to detach it from the bottom of the tank - if there is just single support holding a large part of the object, it may not withstand the peel force, causing it to detach.</p>
<p>Always position the model so that the largest flat part is in touch with the platform. When using supports, make sure there are enough of them. You can also use the pad to give the supports an extra surface. Keep in mind you can always adjust the Support points density and that you can manually add support points to the problematic areas of the design.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/2019-09-02-19-33-02-window.jpg" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h4>Resin has been mixed with IPA</h4>
<p>The resin has been mixed with IPA (e.g., while cleaning the printing platform) and its properties have changed, so it cannot solidify. <strong>Clean and dry</strong> the resin tank properly, use a new batch of resin and try again.</p>
<h3><strong>Hardware and assembly</strong></h3>
<h4>The printing platform is not secured properly</h4>
<p>After inserting the platform back to the printer, make sure that you didn’t forget to <strong>tighten the black printed knob</strong> at the top of the tower. A freely moving printing platform cannot reach an optimal position and the first layer won’t stick.</p>
<h4>The bottom of the tank is dirty</h4>
<p>Every time before pouring the resin into the tank, make sure that the bottom of the tank (the FEP film) is completely clear. A cloudy, dirty or damaged FEP film will have a negative impact on the printing quality. It may even <strong>block UV light</strong> and stop the resin from solidifying properly.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Clean the FEP film using <strong>warm water</strong> and a bit of <strong>dishwashing</strong> soap, and wipe it with <strong>soft</strong> paper towels. Low quality / rough paper towels could scratch the surface. <strong>Do not use IPA nor acetone!</strong></div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/en/wp-content/uploads/resin-tank.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resin-tank-300x104.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resin-tank-600x207.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resin-tank-768x265.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resin-tank-800x276.jpg 800w" alt="resin tank"></p>
<h4>Loose Torx screw(s)</h4>
<p>The FEP film is tightened to the resin tank frame by twenty-two M4x8rt Torx screws. At the end of the assembly, all of these screws must be tightened into the frame. None of them should be protruding. The screws facing down, the frame must <strong>sit on a flat surface without any rocking</strong>.</p>
<h4>A faulty print display or UV LED panel</h4>
<p>If the first layer didn’t adhere to the printing platform and it’s <strong>not attached to the bottom</strong> of the tank either, it usually means that the first layer wasn’t created at all. A possible cause is a faulty print display or a faulty or disconnected UV LED panel. Unscrew the bottom cover off the SL1 and check whether the cable is connected on both sides.&nbsp;</p>


First layer does not stick (SL1/SL1S)

<h3>Why is this happening?&nbsp;</h3>
<p>If the printed object detaches from its supports mid-print, it will fall into the resin tank, usually with the supports still attached to the printing platform. This is normally caused by a combination of the printed object’s weight and insufficient supports. Too heavy (solid) objects may be too much for default supports and as a result, they often detach once they reach a certain weight threshold/height.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The first option is to increase the number of supports or the thickness of supports. Check the exposure times and change them to the recommended values.</p>
<p>The second option is to use the PrusaSlicer and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hollowing_117285">hollow out an object</a>, to reduce the weight and use less resin. <strong>When hollowing out a model it is crucial that you create drainage holes</strong>. Uncured resin can be trapped inside the part it can also create suction/vacuum on the bottom of the tank and the object cannot detach properly, upon layer change.</p>
<p>It is also possible to hollow out models using Meshmixer or Windows 3D Builder, but it will require you to export a model that you then open in PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2-474x400.jpg 474w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2-710x600.jpg 710w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2-300x253.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/detachsupp-sharp-crop2-768x649.jpg 768w" alt="" width="592" height="500"></p>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>


Print detached from supports (SL1/SL1S)

<p>This is an advanced system for displaying error screens, providing more useful information to the user. In case of an issue, the printer will display the name of the error followed by a brief description and a QR code. Take your phone, scan the code, and you will be immediately redirected to an article that will explain in detail what happened to your printer and how to fix the problem.</p>
<p>You can see the printers that show the QR code in our <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Error-Codes">GitHub page</a>. Note that older firmware versions may have different looks.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100.026%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.1716%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/a8eb010a2d9a57fbc9c69b36b0477893.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="QR Error codes REVIEW" alt="" width="225" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 67.8023%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/b7e7fce178235ca5a553c4ff07e83c65.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="QR Error codes REVIEW" alt="" width="500" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>How to use the error code</h3>
<div>
<p>In case your printer displays the error screen, there are multiple ways to access the article:</p>
<ul>
<li>Scan the QR code from the printer screen using a phone or tablet</li>
<li>Use the link displayed on the screen (e.g. help.prusa3d.com/en/12201)</li>
<li>Open help.prusa3d.com and search for the error (e.g. 12201)</li>
</ul>
<p>Follow the article explaining what went wrong and how to fix the issue. Note that some errors might require you to replace broken part(s) of the printer. If a replacement is necessary, there will be a link to the service guide at the bottom of the article.</p>
<h3>Error code explained</h3>
<p>How is each code created? Let's use error #12201 again as an example. The code consists of five numbers with the following pattern: XXYZZ</p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 48.8442%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;"><strong># XXYZZ</strong></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;"><strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/preheat-error-bed-12201-mini_112444">Heating failed bed #12201 (MINI)</a></strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 119.2px;">
<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 119.2px;">
<p>XX - ID number of the printer, according to USB PID</p>
<p>Y - Error category (common for all printers)</p>
<p>ZZ - ID number for the specific error</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 119.2px;">
<p>12 - Printer number 12: Original Prusa MINI</p>
<p>2 - Error category: Temperature error</p>
<p>01 - Specific error code: Heatbed heating failed</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div>
<h3>Device hash</h3>
<p>The URL link embedded in the QR code may contain an optional “device hash”. This can be disabled in the MINI+ in <em>Settings</em>, and in the SL1 in <em>Settings -&gt; Settings</em> <em>and Sensors</em>, on the MK4 and XL printers in <em>Settings -&gt; System</em>. Including this information enables us to check whether you are running the latest version of firmware, and if not, we will inform you at the top of the article. The information provided in the URL is stored in our database to help us better understand which errors are the most common and how many errors each printer experienced.</p>
</div>
<p>The device hash cannot be used to recover anything sensitive like a serial number and isn’t used for anything else than the QR codes feature therefore there are absolutely no security concerns. This feature is turned ON by default. In case you don't want to use this enhanced feature, you can switch it off in the printer's menu by setting the “Device hash in QR” to OFF.</p>
<p>Once you turn it off, the QR code URL will contain only the following: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/12201/</p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 30.8567%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled-300x400.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled-450x600.jpg 450w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled-225x300.jpg 225w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled-768x1024.jpg 768w" alt="" width="250" height="333" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 66.8317%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Device hash toggle for MINI on the left and SL1 on the right.</em></p>


<p>In case the first layer did not stick to the printing platform, it would remain stuck at the bottom of the tank.</p>
<p>No matter how big or how small the stuck layer is, here is a quick safe way that will help you remove it from the FEP film, without damaging it:</p>
<ol>
<li>Unscrew the resin tank screws and remove the tank</li>
<li>Take an empty bottle and insert the bundled funnel/filter in it</li>
<li>One of the tank corners has a different shape, use it to pour the resin from the tank into the bottle. Always pour used resin into a new bottle; don’t mix it with unused liquid – especially if the print failed.</li>
<li>Wipe the tank with a soft paper cloth. The layer that got stuck should be now fully visible</li>
<li>Keep the tank in a horizontal position and use your fingertips (as shown in the picture below) to detach the solidified layer from the bottom. Use a reasonable amount of force and don’t use your fingernails. If the layer is larger, start from the edges and use a circular motion to detach it evenly. You will usually hear the sound of the layer detaching from the FEP film – this indicates that it’s working.</li>
</ol>
<p>Once the stuck object is removed, clean the printer and the tank and try printing a sample object. If the print fails again, re-run the calibration process. The most common cause of this issue is an incorrect Z-offset of the printing platform.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank-300x201.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank-597x400.png 597w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank-768x514.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank-800x536.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Using the plastic spatula that comes with the printer can assist in removing the hardened piece of resin.</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-300x203.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-593x400.png 593w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-768x518.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1tank2-800x540.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Make sure there are no small pieces of the residue of hardened resin before you start another print!</div>


Removing and object stuck to the bottom of the tank

<p>A skewed/deformed print is usually caused by <strong>loose screws</strong> – either the <strong>large black knob</strong> at the top of the cantilever, the screw(s) on the cantilever itself or the <strong>resin tank screws</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-473x400.jpeg 473w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-710x600.jpeg 710w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-300x254.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-768x649.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daeb7d439d9e1519_painted-1536x1299.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="473" height="400"></p>
<h3>Solution</h3>
<h4>Cantilever screw(s)</h4>
<p>Make sure the cantilever screw(s) is tightened up firmly. If not, the whole platform might shift and you must <strong>redo the printer calibration</strong>. After getting to the corresponding step of the calibration, follow the on-screen instructions. To ensure that the geometry of the printer is not shifted when tightening, <strong>tighten the screw slowly but firmly.</strong> To apply enough torque, <strong>use the short end of the Allen wrench.</strong>&nbsp;(as depicted below).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_cantilever.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="480"></p>
<h4>Knob and tank</h4>
<p>Make sure the printer is properly calibrated. By moving the platform, ensure it is inserted all the way in. Tighten the black knob at the top of the tower. (left picture)</p>
<p>Also, tighten both resin tank screws evenly using the same amount of force (right picture).</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calibration_tighten_knob.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="480"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/tighten-resin_tank.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="480"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Skewed / deformed prints (SL1/SL1S)

<p>The printing platform must be perfectly flat and degreased to ensure that the first prints are properly attached. If the pad or print itselfs separates from the printing platform, it can be caused by bumps on the platform, poor calibration, or dirt/grease on the platform.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/breakfromplat-800x450.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Make sure the <strong>platform is perfectly clean and degreased.</strong> Wash the entire platform in IPA carefully to ensure it is completely degreased. <strong>Consider re-calibrating the printer</strong> to make sure the platform is in good contact with the bottom of the tank.</div>
<div class="note-callout">It is possible to sand down the platform&rsquo;s surface with a 1000-grit sandpaper, however, this procedure is <strong>recommended only to experienced users</strong>, since incorrect approach could damage the platform. Be gentle and make it even.</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


Prints breaking away from the platform

<p>Even though SLA printers can achieve much better resolution than standard FFF/FDM 3D printers, layers on objects can be still visible if you look very closely. If you feel like the layers on your prints are too visible, there’s a couple of things you can try.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">
<p>Print a sample object with a good/tested resin (like the sample bottle of Prusa Orange) and see if the issue is still present. If it’s not, then the cause is usually related to slicing settings.</p>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Possible solutions</h3>
<ul>
<li>Try rotating the object to eliminate gradually rising/declining surfaces.</li>
<li>Extreme exposure times can also produce visible layers.</li>
<li>Mixed / low-quality resins can also affect the print quality – use a fresh, high-quality resin and shake the bottle for at least 20 seconds before you pour the resin in the tank.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers-300x187.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers-600x374.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers-768x479.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/visible-layers-800x499.png 800w" alt=""></p>


Visible layers (SL1/SL1S)

<p>Bubbles or small scratches (also appearing like cracks) on the object are caused by small pieces of dirt or debris in the tank (vat) you are using. These small objects travel in the tank during printing, creating paths that resemble scratches as they move.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/scratcg-800x450.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<div class="tip-callout">
<p>Make sure that the resin is 100% pure and free of small dirt particles. Filter the contaminated resin, for example, through a coffee filter. Also make sure your print tray is 100% clean and there are no dirt particles on the FEP film. Rinse the tank in warm water and then dry it with a paper towel.</p>
</div>


Scratches/bubbles on prints (SL1/SL1S)

<p>Large holes (defects) in printed objects are almost <strong>exclusively caused by dirt on the FEP foil or loose particles in the resin</strong>. Tiny pieces of debris on the bottom of the tank will block the light from reaching the resin correctly. Dirt particles also have a tendency to grow during the print, which will increase the size of the hole through the course of the print.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-300x168.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-600x336.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-768x430.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-800x448.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>Make sure the FEP foil on the bottom of the tank is perfectly clean. Empty the tank of resin, filtering it with the sieve to make sure any hard particles are not poured back into its bottle. Carefully remove any dirt / solidified bits.</p>
<p>If the FEP foil is cloudy, use hot water and dishwashing soap to clean and restore the original look. The FEP film is rated for 10 prints, but will most often last you longer than that.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you need to replace the FEP film, the printer comes with spares and it can also be found in our eshop for the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/fep-film-3-pcs-sl1/">SL1</a> and for the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/fep-film-3-pcs-sl1s/">SL1S</a>. Follow <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/fep-film-replacement-sl1_1963">our guide on replacing it</a>.</div>


Holes in print (SL1/SL1S)

<p>When your printer emits loud noises, sounding like hammering onto sheet-metal. This can be caused by a firmware issue, or if resin has leaked into your printer through the tilt platform.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">A clogged (flooded) sensor of the tilt-mechanism can cause it to not move as intended.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/loud-bnoisescaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/loud-bnoisescaled-600x290.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/loud-bnoisescaled-800x387.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/loud-bnoisescaled-300x145.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/loud-bnoisescaled-768x372.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/loud-bnoisescaled-1536x744.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/loud-bnoisescaled-2048x992.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="600" height="291"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">First, check that your firmware is up to date. If you have the latest available version installed and the problem persists, remove the black cover and check whether the sensor under the tilt motor is clean. If there is resin on the sensor then remove it with a piece of paper towel and make sure the sensor is perfectly clean – otherwise, the reading will be affected.</div>


Loud noises from printer (SL1/SL1S)

<p>If you encounter de-lamination, separated layers, or missing layers, the cause is usually in a broken SL1/STL file. Another cause can be a faulty UV LED panel or dirt in the resin tank.&nbsp;</p>
<div>Note that this is a different case than a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/missing-parts-sl1-sl1s_1794">lack of supports</a>, where entire parts of the print can be missing.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-600x338.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-768x433.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-800x451.png 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4.png" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you start a print that consumes more resin than the tank's capacity, you should refill resin right away when being prompted (max 3-5 minutes). This is to avoid artifacts and potential de-lamination. If possible use the hollowing feature in your slicer.</div>
<h3><strong>Solution:&nbsp;</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li>Try printing a pre-sliced sample object from the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">Prusa driver's package</a> and see if the issue persists. If it does, clean the resin tank properly and try again.</li>
<li>Continuous issues with separated/missing layers can be caused by a faulty UV LED panel – check whether it works correctly by removing the tank and initiating the Display test. Navigate the menu to <em>Settings -&gt; Advanced settings -&gt; UV &amp; Display settings -&gt; Display Test<strong>.</strong> Follow the on-screen instructions and inspect the logo through the orange cover through your smartphone or camera.</em></li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>WARNING: DO NOT LOOK DIRECTLY INTO THE UV LED, while it is TURNED ON!</strong> Even though the orange cover provides some protection if you want to check the LED panel look at it through your phone camera app or take a photo so you won't look directly into the light.</div>
<ul>
<li>If the tank and UV LED-panel checks out, the cause is most likely a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/corrupted-3d-models-for-printing_2205">broken object file (3d model)</a>. Either try re-slicing the model or download a new one.</li>
</ul>


De-lamination / separated layers (SL1/SL1S)

<p>Most resins have a tendency to shrink by several micrometers after they are cured. These expansions and resulting forces can lead to layer warping and layer separation. However, these errors are usually limited to large solid layers.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">&nbsp;This printing error is caused by the physical properties of resins. Consider hollowing problematic objects, if you encounter layer warping.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1-300x193.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1-600x386.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1-768x494.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/warpedlayerssl1-800x514.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">Warping can also occur during drying and curing of thin and flat objects. Consider the orientation and position of supports to mitigate this. Sometimes it can be resolved by removing the print from the platform after it has been dried and cured.</div>


Warped layers (SL1/SL1S)

<p>A print can finish even if some parts of the object weren’t printed fully, though a missing part of an object will more often cause the whole print-job to fail. Try printing a sample object to see whether it is also affected by this issue.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/missingpartSL1-1024x577.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/missingpartSL1-1024x577-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/missingpartSL1-1024x577-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/missingpartSL1-1024x577-768x433.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/missingpartSL1-1024x577-800x451.jpg 800w" alt="">The warrior’s right arm is missing completely and a part of the shield is damaged</p>
<div class="note-callout">There are two main reasons (and a third, less common one) why printed objects may have missing parts. They both usually come down to incorrect slicer-settings.</div>
<h4><strong>Lack of supports</strong></h4>
<p>Please check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printer-handbooks_125045">SL1 Handbook</a>, chapter 6.5: Slicing objects for the SL1, to learn how to correctly position an object and generate supports for it. Keep in mind that parts of the object cannot start mid-air and that the printer has a threshold for overhangs.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Improve the supports in PrusaSlicer, re-slice the object, and try printing it again. If the problem persists, try printing a sample object and see if the problem is still present. If it is, there might be a problem with the printing display or UV LED panel.&nbsp;</div>
<h4><strong>Incorrect exposure times</strong></h4>
<p>If you set incorrect exposure times (especially too low times), the resin will not have enough time to solidify, which may result in missing details. Always make sure you’re using recommended exposure times for your prints.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Make sure you are using exposure times recommended for the resin of your choice.</div>
<h4><strong>Faulty hardware</strong></h4>
<p>Another possibility (a less common one) is that your print display or UV LED panel is faulty, so either the mask is incorrectly displayed or only a part of the object is cured by UV light. Please contact customer support if the previous steps did not solve the issue.</p>


Missing parts (SL1/SL1S)

<p>The Original Prusa SL1 3D printer can produce objects with an incredible amount of detail – tiny wrinkles on cloth of a figure, texture of skin, thin railings on buildings, etc. However, in case the printed object is missing small details (not entire parts of the model), it can be due to incorrect exposure times.</p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">Make sure you are using the correct preset for your color/resin in PrusaSlicer!</div>
</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-1536x921.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="667" height="400"></p>
<h4><strong>Insufficient exposure</strong></h4>
<p>Too short exposure times will result in details being “melted” together. Increase the exposure times to recommended values to fix this issue.</p>
<h4><strong>Overexposed layers</strong></h4>
<p>Long exposure times will result in a “staircase” effect – the layers won’t blend into each other perfectly and some details may be lost due to this effect. Use the recommended exposure time values to fix this issue.</p>


Object missing details

<p>If you encounter an issue, we may request the log file from your Original Prusa SL1. This contains a wide range of info specific to your unit. By going to the printer menu to <em>Settings -&gt; System logs</em> (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green square</span>), <strong>you have two options:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>Save the log to a USB flash drive</li>
<li>Upload the log to the Prusa server</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/e74601433fc07c43_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/e74601433fc07c43_painted-600x360.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/e74601433fc07c43_painted-800x480.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/e74601433fc07c43_painted-300x180.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/e74601433fc07c43_painted-768x461.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/e74601433fc07c43_painted-1536x922.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_System_Logs_2021-03_09-31_1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_System_Logs_2021-03_09-31_1-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_System_Logs_2021-03_09-31_1-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_System_Logs_2021-03_09-31_1-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_System_Logs_2021-03_09-31_1-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Saving the log to a USB flash drive</h3>
<ol>
<li>Insert a FAT32 formatted USB flash drive into the printer.</li>
<li>In the menu Settings -&gt; System logs, select <em>Save to USB drive</em>.</li>
<li>Wait while the logs are saved to the USB drive. Once the procedure is finished, the printer will return to the Settings menu.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="500" height="300"></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>You can now remove the USB drive, plug it in your computer, and look for the saved log file (logs.<em>YOURPRINTERSERIALNUMBERDANDDATE</em>.txt.gz). Send this file, along with your description of the issue to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a>.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Uploading log to the Prusa server</h3>
<div class="tip-callout">This option is only possible if the printer has <strong>firmware 1.5.0 or above</strong>&nbsp;and is <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">connected to the internet</a>.</div>
<ol>
<li>In the menu <em>Settings -&gt; System logs</em>, select <em>Upload to Server</em>.</li>
<li>Wait while the logs are uploaded.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/screenshot_Logs_export_2021-03_09-31_2-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="500" height="300"></p>
<ol start="3">
<li><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Once the log upload is finished, a code consisting of letters and numbers will appear (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple square</span>). Note this code down, and provide it when contacting <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a>.<br /></span></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c4180db7f8aa6965_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c4180db7f8aa6965_painted-600x360.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c4180db7f8aa6965_painted-800x480.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c4180db7f8aa6965_painted-300x180.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c4180db7f8aa6965_painted-768x461.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/c4180db7f8aa6965_painted-1536x922.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="500" height="300"></p>

Saving log file (SL1/SL1S)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer displays the message: <strong>The resin sensor was not triggered. Check whether the tank and the platform are properly secured.</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Resin sensor error</p>
<p>Error code: #10307</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Check the following items</p>
<ul>
<li>If the platform is installed and properly secured.</li>
<li>That the tank is firmly tightened by the side screws.</li>
</ul>
<p>If no issues are found in the tank or platform, check the resin sensor cable by opening the bottom cover.</p>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<p> </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-01.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-01-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-01-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-01-768x576.png 768w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
</td>
<td>
<p> </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02-768x576.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02-800x600.png 800w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
</td>
<td>
<p> </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-03-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-03-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-03-768x576.png 768w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-03.png" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>On the side with the electronics boards from the printer, check if the serrated washer is in contact with the surface of the tilt, the cable is not damaged, and the connector is firmly connected to the board.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/3c45010ae65feae0_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/3c45010ae65feae0_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/3c45010ae65feae0_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/3c45010ae65feae0_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/3c45010ae65feae0_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/3c45010ae65feae0_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>


Resin sensor error #10307 (SL1/SL1S)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is displaying the message: <strong>Tilt homing failed, check its surroundings, and repeat the action</strong>.</p>
<p>Error name: Tilt homing failed</p>
<p>Error code: #10101</p>
<p>Issued when the printer has a mechanical failure when trying to move the tilt mechanism.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The inability to home the tilt might indicate that there is a physical block of the tilt mechanism or an assembly error in the motor and the connecting rod. Please follow these steps to check the tilt assembly.</p>
<ol>
<li>Open the eight M3x5b screws securing the cover. <strong>Be careful to unplug the USB &amp; Power-cable before removing the cover completely.</strong></li>
</ol>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-01-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-01-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-01-768x576.png 768w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-01.png" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02-768x576.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02-800x600.png 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-02.png" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
</td>
<td>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-03-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-03-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-03-768x576.png 768w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-03.png" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="2">
<li style="counter-increment: li 2;">Remove the M4x10 screw holding the right side of the touch screen. It is not necessary to remove the left screw. Just loosen it about a half-turn and you can slide the screen out, like a door. This will give you access to the motor and connecting rod.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 250px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-11-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-11-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-11-768x576.png 768w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-11.png" data-hd-height="250px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Be very careful with the touch screen flat cable. It is fragile and can be easily damaged or cut.</div>
<ol start="3">
<li>Move the connecting rod with your hands and see if it has a full range of motion and if the blade sensor-trigger is between the two sides of the sensor. If so, jump to step 12. If any resistance is found, continue with the next step.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/6469b043fdec9c7d_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/6469b043fdec9c7d_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/6469b043fdec9c7d_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/6469b043fdec9c7d_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/6469b043fdec9c7d_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w" alt="" width="338" height="254"></p>
<ol start="4">
<li style="counter-increment: li 2;">Remove the M3nN-nut from the screw that connects the tilt-mechanism and the connecting rod. You can do that by using a spanner or pliers to hold the nut and an Allen key to unscrew from the other side.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 250px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-08.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-08-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-08-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-08-768x576.png 768w" data-hd-height="250px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ol start="5">
<li style="counter-increment: li 3;">Remove the two M4x8 screws securing the tilt-motor holder to the bottom plate.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 250px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-09.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-09-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-09-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-09-768x576.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-09-800x600.png 800w" data-hd-height="250px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ol start="6">
<li style="counter-increment: li 4;">Remove the motor-holder and the connecting-rod from the tilt mechanism.</li>
<li>Go to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/2-base-tower_8544#9384">Step 18</a> of <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/2-base-tower_8544">2. Base & Tower</a> of the assembly guide, and remake the connection of the connecting rod and the motor shaft.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-07-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-07-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-07-768x576.png 768w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-07.png" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Pay extra attention to this step, as not aligning the connecting rod with the protrusion on the holder as instructed will cause the issue again.</div>
<ol start="8">
<li style="counter-increment: li 6;">Reassemble first the tilt to the connecting rod, make sure that after tightening the nut the two parts are in contact.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 250px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-05-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-05-533x400.png 533w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-05.png" data-hd-height="250px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not over-tighten the nut!</div>
<ol start="9">
<li style="counter-increment: li 7;">Connect the motor holder to the bottom plate using the M4x8 screws.</li>
</ol>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 250px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-06-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-06-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-06-768x576.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-06-800x600.png 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-06.png" data-hd-height="250px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ol start="10">
<li style="counter-increment: li 8;">Make sure that the optical sensor cable has its correct end connected to the sensor. The middle wire should be blue. In case the middle wire on the sensor connector is black, the connection will need to be swapped.</li>
<li>Move the connecting-rod manually and see if it moves smoothly until the blade sensor-trigger is between the two sides of the sensor.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Make sure the sensor is secured!</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 250px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-10-261x300.png 261w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-10-348x400.png 348w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-10-522x600.png 522w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-10.png" data-hd-height="250px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ol start="12">
<li style="counter-increment: li 10;">Slide the LCD back to its place, and tighten both M4x10 screws holding it.</li>
</ol>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 200px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-11-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-11-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-11-768x576.png 768w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-11.png" data-hd-height="200px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ol start="13">
<li style="counter-increment: li 11;">Connect the USB and Power cable and close the eight M3x5b screws that hold the cover. Tighten them diagonally at first, and add all the screws before tightening them. Pay attention to the cables from the electronics so that they are not pinched.</li>
</ol>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 250px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-12-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-12-533x400.png 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-12-768x576.png 768w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1-Tilt-mechanism-error-12.png" data-hd-height="250px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ol start="14">
<li style="counter-increment: li 12;">Run the wizard again.</li>
</ol>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


Tilt homing failed #10101 (SL1/SL1S)

<p>The firmware can be installed on both SL1 and SL1S SPEED, it will recognize the printer based on the print display and set the parameters accordingly.</p>
<ul>
<li>Updated Wizards and Selftest wizard</li>
<li>SL1S SPEED print profiles</li>
<li>Speed of first layers</li>
<li>Automatic print adjustments (large objects)</li>
<li>New power button behavior</li>
<li>Transition to DBus for IPC</li>
<li>Improved translations and localisations</li>
<li>Improved screensaver</li>
<li>Improved logging procedure</li>
<li>PrusaLink updates</li>
<li>Print display time counter</li>
<li>Improved cooling</li>
<li>Screen compositor Weston</li>
</ul>


1.6.0

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<p>The firmware can be installed on both SL1 and SL1S SPEED, it will recognize the printer based on the print display and set the parameters accordingly. This firmware is required for the upgrade from SL1 to SL1S.</p>
<ul>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">New print display driver</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Support for diacritics in filenames</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Improved display counter</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">PrusaLink improvement</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Preprint checks</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Increased space for user prints</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Other improvements and bug fixes</li>
</ul>


1.6.1

<ul>
<li>Initial release reflecting the new features and changes in the Original Prusa SL1S SPEED</li>
</ul>


1.06

<p>This release is a small hotfix for the SL1 and SL1S:</p>
<ul>
<li>Factory reset fixed</li>
</ul>
<p>See full release log for more details.</p>


1.6.2

<p>This release includes two changes in the user interface and several bug fixes for the SL1 and SL1S:</p>
<ul>
<li>Preprint workflow changed</li>
<li>Print profile selection added to PrusaLink</li>
</ul>
<p>See full release log for more details.</p>


1.6.3

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>Added support for M1</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


1.6.4

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul>
<li>Support for new rear fan</li>
<li>Support for new DAC converter</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

1.6.6

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

1.7.0

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0

<ul>
<li>Fixed bugs</li>
<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

1.7.1


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>Project thumbnail page while printing</li>



<li>Elephant foot and exposure times compensation fix</li>



<li>Help pages split between M1 and SL1/S</li>



<li>Red screen (error page) with a scrollable layout</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


1.7.2


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Updating information on package contents</li>
</ul>


1.08


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa SL1S SPEED

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