<p>The Original Prusa SL1 3D printer can produce objects with an incredible amount of detail – tiny wrinkles on cloth of a figure, texture of skin, thin railings on buildings, etc. However, in case the printed object is missing small details (not entire parts of the model), it can be due to incorrect exposure times.</p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">Make sure you are using the correct preset for your color/resin in PrusaSlicer!</div>
</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/screenshot_Change_exposure-1536x921.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="667" height="400"></p>
<h4><strong>Insufficient exposure</strong></h4>
<p>Too short exposure times will result in details being “melted” together. Increase the exposure times to recommended values to fix this issue.</p>
<h4><strong>Overexposed layers</strong></h4>
<p>Long exposure times will result in a “staircase” effect – the layers won’t blend into each other perfectly and some details may be lost due to this effect. Use the recommended exposure time values to fix this issue.</p>


Object missing details

Objekt s chybějícími detaily

Objekte mit fehlenden Details

A la pieza impresa le faltan algunos detalles

Objet manquant de détails

Dettagli piccoli mancanti

Object missing details [進行中の翻訳]

W drukowanym modelu brakuje szczegółów

Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1S) is a recommended accessory for the Original Prusa SL1S

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade

Original Prusa Enclosure assembly

Original Prusa XL - beta test

Original Prusa XL assembly

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

Original Prusa SL1 to SL1S SPEED upgrade

Original Prusa MINI+ kit assembly

The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

Original Prusa i3 to MMU2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S to MK3S+ upgrade

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer is based on the MSLA printing process. Unlike Original Prusa i3 machines, this printer uses a high-resolution LCD panel and a UV LED to cure thin layers of resin to achieve an unprecedented level of detail.

Original Prusa SL1 kit assembly

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK3 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK1 to MK2 upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm to 1.75 mm upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2/S to MMU1 upgrade

The Original Prusa MINI/MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S is a successor to Original Prusa i3 MK2 with small hardware tweaks for easier assembly and improved reliability.

Original Prusa i3 MK2S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S to MK3 upgrade

The Original Prusa i3 MK3 is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 MMU1 to MK2.5S MMU2S

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK2.5 to MMU2 v1.01

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 to MK2.5S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

Slicing

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

Printer troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Printer simulator

Protective Shields

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Left toolbar

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

Multi-material slicing

SLA slicing

Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

P.I.N.D.A. sensor

Thermistor

Filament sensor

M.I.N.D.A. sensor

MINI

Tube fitting

Print fan

USB port

Power Button

Liquid Resin

Curing / Solidifying

Lid (SL1)

Whole mechanical assembly of SL1 print platform

Tilt

Tank

Selector knob

Filament buffer

Wipe tower / Purge tower

Micro USB port

Reset button

Firmware

Long PTFE between an extruder motor and hotend

Bowden tube

Controller board

Blade

Hotend

Ethernet port (LAN)

Power switch

Extruder / Extruder motor

Nozzle

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Extruder PTFE tube (bowden MINI)

LCD screen

Spool holder

SL1 file (*.sl1)

Print display (SL1)

Heatbed

Belt tension

Extruder

Flexible steel sheet

Chimney (IR-sensor-holder-MMU2S)

Control Buttons (MMU2S)

Indicator LEDs (MMU2S)

Selector motor (MMU2S)

Pulley motor (MMU2S)

Idler motor (MMU2S)

F.I.N.D.A. sensor (MMU2S)

Live Adjust Z

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Idler screw

Print speed

Heater cartridge

Filament sensor introduced with the S-upgrade of MK3 and MMU2

IR filament sensor

Selector (MMU2S)

MMU idler (MMU2S)

Diameter of filament compatible with Original Prusa printers.

1.75 mm

FFF/FDM

Filament

Bondtech gears

Hotend thermistor

Heatbed thermistor

Heat block

Modifier meshes

Support enforcers

Support blockers

Hollowing

Original Prusa MK3

Original Prusa MK3S

Original Prusa SL1

Original Prusa MMU2S

Touch screen

Check the cables

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Connected to the printer and used with Octoprint

Raspberry Pi

Prusa Connect

Prusa Connect Local

SD card

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Test

test relation1122

Einsy

Original Prusa MK2.5

Original Prusa MK2.5S

Heatsink

Print platform

SuperPINDA

Mesh bed leveling

for securing PTFE in the MINI brass fitting

Olive

Buddy board

FEP foil

Tilt motor

Cantilever

Hotend fan

<p>Broken supports (or missing parts of supports) are usually caused by incorrect settings in the PrusaSlicer. The supports are either too thin or the exposure time is set to a value too low. In some cases, this can be also caused by a dirty FEP film.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Try printing one of the sample objects to see whether the issue remains. If the sample object was printed without trouble, reset your PrusaSlicer settings.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-768x433.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/brokensuppSL1-800x451.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">If the sample object has the same sort of trouble, inspect the FEP film in the resin tank – it may be dirty. In very rare scenarios, a faulty UV LED panel can be the cause.</div>
</div>


Broken supports (SL1/SL1S)

<p>If you encounter de-lamination, separated layers, or missing layers, the cause is usually in a broken SL1/STL file. Another cause can be a faulty UV LED panel or dirt in the resin tank.&nbsp;</p>
<div>Note that this is a different case than a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/missing-parts-sl1-sl1s_1794">lack of supports</a>, where entire parts of the print can be missing.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-600x338.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-768x433.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4-800x451.png 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4.png" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you start a print that consumes more resin than the tank's capacity, you should refill resin right away when being prompted (max 3-5 minutes). This is to avoid artifacts and potential de-lamination. If possible use the hollowing feature in your slicer.</div>
<h3><strong>Solution:&nbsp;</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li>Try printing a pre-sliced sample object from the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">Prusa driver's package</a> and see if the issue persists. If it does, clean the resin tank properly and try again.</li>
<li>Continuous issues with separated/missing layers can be caused by a faulty UV LED panel – check whether it works correctly by removing the tank and initiating the Display test. Navigate the menu to <em>Settings -&gt; Advanced settings -&gt; UV &amp; Display settings -&gt; Display Test<strong>.</strong> Follow the on-screen instructions and inspect the logo through the orange cover through your smartphone or camera.</em></li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>WARNING: DO NOT LOOK DIRECTLY INTO THE UV LED, while it is TURNED ON!</strong> Even though the orange cover provides some protection if you want to check the LED panel look at it through your phone camera app or take a photo so you won't look directly into the light.</div>
<ul>
<li>If the tank and UV LED-panel checks out, the cause is most likely a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/corrupted-3d-models-for-printing_2205">broken object file (3d model)</a>. Either try re-slicing the model or download a new one.</li>
</ul>


De-lamination / separated layers (SL1/SL1S)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is displaying the message: <strong>The update of the firmware failed! Restart the printer and try again.</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Firmware update failed</p>
<p>Error code: #10534</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The flashing of the firmware failed. There can be several reasons for this:</p>
<ul>
<li>The firmware file is corrupted or the USB stick was removed during the flashing process.</li>
<li>The printer lost its network connection during an OTA update.</li>
</ul>
<p>If the previous points check out then look into:</p>
<ul>
<li>The firmware you are flashing is of a version too far ahead of the existing firmware. Try to flash the firmware version after the one you have. For example, do not update directly from 1.2.0 to 1.4.0, without updating to 1.3.0 first.</li>
</ul>
<p>For older versions of the firmware, see the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/firmware-changelog/#sl1">firmware changelog for older firmware</a>.</p>
<h3>Guides</h3>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-sl1-sl1s_124776">Firmware updating (SL1)</a></p>


Firmware update failed #10534 (SL1)

<p>Large holes (defects) in printed objects are almost <strong>exclusively caused by dirt on the FEP foil or loose particles in the resin</strong>. Tiny pieces of debris on the bottom of the tank will block the light from reaching the resin correctly. Dirt particles also have a tendency to grow during the print, which will increase the size of the hole through the course of the print.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-300x168.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-600x336.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-768x430.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holes-1024x573-800x448.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>Make sure the FEP foil on the bottom of the tank is perfectly clean. Empty the tank of resin, filtering it with the sieve to make sure any hard particles are not poured back into its bottle. Carefully remove any dirt / solidified bits.</p>
<p>If the FEP foil is cloudy, use hot water and dishwashing soap to clean and restore the original look. The FEP film is rated for 10 prints, but will most often last you longer than that.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you need to replace the FEP film, the printer comes with spares and it can also be found in our eshop for the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/fep-film-3-pcs-sl1/">SL1</a> and for the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/fep-film-3-pcs-sl1s/">SL1S</a>. Follow <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/fep-film-replacement-sl1_1963">our guide on replacing it</a>.</div>


Holes in print (SL1/SL1S)

Object missing details

Insufficient exposure

Overexposed layers

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