MK3S+

<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade <br /></strong></p>
<p>The current lead time is <strong>3-4 weeks </strong>for both xLCD versions.</p>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 330.828px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 28.375px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order week</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order date</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Shipping estimate</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 33.25px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">Week 33</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">starts August 12, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 33.25px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Already shipped</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 24.7344px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 34</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 19, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 101.203px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="5">
<p>Currently shipping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 24.7344px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 35</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 26, 2024</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 24.7344px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 36</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts September 2, 2024</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 37</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 9, 2024</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 30px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">Week 38</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">starts September 16, 2024</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 39</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 23, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 54px;" rowspan="2">From week 46 (starts November 11, 2024)</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 40</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 30, 2024</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 41</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 7, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 84px;" rowspan="3">From week 47 (starts November 18, 2024)</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 42</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 14, 2024</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 43</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 21, 2024</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 44</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 28, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="2">From week 48 (starts November 25, 2024)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Week 45</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">starts November 4, 2024</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p></p>
<p> </p>
<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: November 4th, 2024 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p></p>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 765.922px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 27.922px;">
<td style="height: 27.922px; width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Product</h4>
</td>
<td style="height: 27.922px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL Enclosure<br /></strong><em>(standalone)</em><strong><br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Advanced Filtration System <br /></strong>(for Original Prusa Enclosure)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade<br /></strong>/MK4S upgrade for versions with old xLCD</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.5S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit (for MK4S/MK3.9S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK4S/MK3.9S) </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK4/MK3.9)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK3.5S/MK3.5) </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK3S+) </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />for MK4S/MK3.9S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

Infill patterns

<p>Updating the firmware is <strong>recommended for all users</strong> as every new version brings new features and fixes.</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>To utilize the new SuperPINDA, your MK3S must at least have firmware version 3.9.2!</strong></div>
<p>To flash the firmware onto your printer, you need:</p>
<ul>
<li>Computer running Windows, macOS, or Linux</li>
<li>USB cable, preferably the original included with your printer</li>
<li>PrusaSlicer and the printer's driver installed (download <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">here</a>)</li>
</ul>
<p>To check which firmware version you already have on your printer, power it up and go to <em>LCD menu -&gt; Support</em>. Scroll down and you will see the firmware version<strong>. The procedure for installing an older version of the firmware (downgrading) is exactly the same.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">If you want to flash the firmware, the printer must be <strong>on</strong>.</div>
<h3><strong>Preparations</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>PrusaSlicer and the printer's driver must be installed.</strong> If you do not have this installed, it is found in the Drivers and Apps package available where you download the latest firmware.</li>
<li>Enter our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">our downloads section</a> and download the firmware (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green square</span>). To find the correct firmware, see the name and picture of the printers/upgrades and compare it to your machine. <strong>Be aware that Original Prusa MK3 and MK3S do not use the same firmware file. <em>However, MK3S and MK3S+ use the same firmware.</em></strong><br /><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b54017457c98b323_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b54017457c98b323_painted-600x348.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b54017457c98b323_painted-800x464.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b54017457c98b323_painted-300x174.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b54017457c98b323_painted-768x445.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b54017457c98b323_painted-1536x890.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="347" loading="lazy" /></li>
</ul>
<h3>Flashing procedure</h3>
<ol start="1">
<li>To flash the firmware into your printer, connect the RAMBo board to your computer using the square-shaped <strong>USB-B 2.0 cable</strong>. The printer must be ON!</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 400px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/image.png" width="600" height="238" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="400px" data-hd-align="left" /></p>
<ol start="2">
<li>Unzip the .zip-file to a folder on your computer.</li>
<li>Open PrusaSlicer, navigate to <em>Menu -&gt; Configuration -&gt; Flash printer firmware</em>.</li>
<li>Click on the <strong>Browse</strong> button (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow <span style="color: #000000;">right picture</span></span>) and choose the .hex file from the location you <strong>unzipped</strong> it. <em>The file name with the firmware for the MK3S is <strong>prusa3d_fw_MK3S_x_x_x_xxx</strong> where the <strong>x</strong> is the firmware version number.</em></li>
<li>Make sure the Serial Port field (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">red square <span style="color: #2dc26b;"><span style="color: #000000;">right picture</span></span></span>) displays your printer's name (Original Prusa i3 MK3) and has a COM port assigned (ex. COM4). Click <span class="key">Flash!</span> and let the procedure complete. <em>Progress is indicated on both the Firmware flasher and the printer's display. </em></li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none; height: 20.8889px;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 20.8889px;">
<td style="width: 48.8562%; height: 20.8889px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/66a97389197dc3be280ff30399006134.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="How to update firmware (MK3S+/MK3S/MK3)" alt="" width="395" height="196" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; height: 20.8889px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/67b0e83baf3aaf6f2844af3e532b9356.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="How to update firmware (MK3S+/MK3S/MK3)" alt="" width="395" height="196" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout">If the Serial port field display anything but the name of the printer (ex. usbmodemfa141 or /dev/tty.<em>usbmodem</em>) you should try another USB port on your computer, reinstall the driver or restart your computer.</div>
<div>
<h3>Problems when flashing</h3>
<div>If you encounter any firmware updating or flashing problems, check our article about the most common errors: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-issues-mk2-5s-mk3s-mmu2s-mmu3_2225">Firmware updating issues (MK2.5S/MK3S+/MMU2S/MMU3)</a>.</div>
</div>

How to update firmware (MK3S+/MK3S/MK3)

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S to MK3S+ upgrade

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What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

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All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

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Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

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In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

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Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

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Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

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The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

2A. MK3 Extruder disassembly

2B. MK3S Extruder disassembly

2A. Y-axis assembly

3A. MK3 Extruder upgrade

2B. Y-axis assembly

3B. MK3S Extruder upgrade

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4. Electronics assembly

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Manual changelog MK3S+ kit

<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero. </strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value. </strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" loading="lazy" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high. </strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Having the nozzle too low can cause the nozzle to damage your steel sheet. This is not covered by <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/warranty_2288">Warranty</a>.</div>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w" /></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet! </strong>For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg" /></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the <strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<div class="warning-callout">This is an&nbsp;<strong>advanced calibration</strong>, recommended only to&nbsp;<strong>experienced users</strong>.</div>
<p>The Extrusion Multiplier allows the fine-tuning of the extrusion flow rate - simply described as&nbsp;<strong>how much filament comes out of the nozzle</strong>. In other words, the&nbsp;<strong>Extrusion Multiplier</strong>&nbsp;setting in PrusaSlicer and the&nbsp;<strong>Flow rate</strong>&nbsp;setting in printer firmware are two ways to adjust the same thing, however, adjusting one of those two settings will not influence the value of the other.</p>
<p><strong>This procedure is not necessary with a new printer coming from the factory</strong>, but rather applies for specific applications and filaments. The ideal value is different for every type of material and every color. It can even differ from spool to spool. Bear this in mind if you change type and brand of filament often or use cheap no-name brands.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Total flow rate = <strong>Flow multiplier</strong> in firmware (M221) x <strong>Extrusion multiplier</strong> in PrusaSlicer. For those interested in diving deeper, PrusaSlicer uses the same <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Flow math as Slic3r</a>.</div>
<h3><strong>How to spot an issue</strong></h3>
<p>This calibration is used to fix two common problems:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Overextrusion</strong> - Too much material is extruded (flow is too high). It causes scarring of bottom layers and unnecessary material buildup on top layers.</li>
<li><strong>Minor under extrusion</strong>&nbsp;- Not enough material is extruded (flow is too low). It causes small gaps that appear between layer lines or perimeters.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-600x282.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-800x376.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-300x141.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-768x361.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-1536x721.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="852" height="400"></p>
<p><strong>Overextrusion</strong> is a common problem with many filament brands. It's especially problematic when you're trying to glue two parts of the model. <strong>If the top layer is over extruded, you'll end up with an uneven surface that will prevent a seamless connection between the two pieces.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>How to do the calibration</strong></h3>
<p>In PrusaSlicer, navigate to <span class="key">Filament Settings</span> and look for Extrusion Multiplier. The default setting (for PLA) is 1, this value represents a percentage, 1 = 100%, 0.95 = 95% etc. Usually, the adjusted values can be between 0.9 and 1.1. To adjust it, simply rewrite the value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 200px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/image-2019-1-15-12-55-6.png" data-hd-height="200px"></p>
<p>In the printer menu, during a print, go to the Tune menu and then choose Flow. Again, the usual values can range between 90 and 110, although that does not mean you can't go above or below that.</p>
<h4>Which method should I use?</h4>
<p>There are two methods you can use to calibrate the Extrusion Multiplier, and we'll cover both of them in this article:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Precise Method</strong>&nbsp; -&nbsp; using precision tools such as calipers or micrometers.</li>
<li><strong>Visual Method&nbsp;</strong>&nbsp;- an easy method based on observing the visual properties of your models.</li>
</ul>
<p>The choice of the method depends entirely on your preferences; in the end, both yield similar results. Even the visual method will enable you to have perfectly fitting parts with smooth &amp; flat top layers.</p>
<h4>Precise Method</h4>
<div class="note-callout">Please note that the following guide is based on <strong>default</strong> PrusaSlicer 0.4 nozzle profiles, with a layer height of 0.1mm - 0.2mm. This means that:<br />
- Nozzle size = 0.4<br />
- Extrusion width =&nbsp;0.45<br />
- Basic materials (PLA, ABS, PETG) Extrusion Multiplier = 1<br />
<strong>If you wish to calibrate the printer with a bigger/smaller nozzle or layer heights above 0.2, then you will need to adjust these values as well.</strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/cube-40-40-40.zip">Precision Method Cube STL</a>.</li>
<li>Slice it using the Vase Mode and your most-often used layer height and print it. You can find Vase mode (Print Settings →&nbsp; Layers and perimeters →&nbsp; Spiral vase).</li>
<li>Make three or more measurements in the middle of each wall and calculate the overall average thickness.</li>
<li>Calculate the extrusion multiplier using the following formula: <strong>Extrusion multiplier = (Extrusion width (0.45) / Average measured wall thickness)</strong>.</li>
<li>Adjust the Extrusion Multiplier in Filament Settings → Filament</li>
<li>Re-print the cube with new settings and go back to step 3 if necessary.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 220px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/micrometer-small-jpg.JPG" height="400" data-hd-height="220px"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that cheap digital calipers may not be accurate enough to make reliable measurements of a single perimeter wall.</div>
<h4>Visual Method</h4>
<p>This method does not require any tools, only your sight. The point is to make sure your top layers are <strong>smooth</strong>, <strong>shiny,</strong> and without <strong>scarring or filament buildup</strong> near the perimeters.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-600x374.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-800x499.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-300x187.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-768x479.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-1536x958.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="641" height="400"></p>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/visual-method-cube.zip">Visual Method Cube.stl</a></li>
<li>Slice it using the default Prusa PLA presets at 0.20mm layer height and print it.</li>
<li>Inspect the top layer of your cube visually and with the tip of the finger.</li>
<li>If the top is under extruded or not smooth, then re-adjust the Extrusion Multiplier accordingly by 1-2%.</li>
<li>Repeat the steps above as long as needed.</li>
</ol>
<p>If there is&nbsp;<strong>too much material</strong>&nbsp;near the perimeters,&nbsp;<strong>decrease</strong>&nbsp;the Extrusion Multiplier value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 390px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/buildu.jpg" data-hd-height="390px" data-hd-align="left"></p>
<p>If there are&nbsp;<strong>visible gaps</strong>&nbsp;between layer lines,&nbsp;<strong>increase</strong> the Extrusion Multiplier value. (Microscopic gaps near the perimeters are OK.)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 430px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/gaps.jpg" data-hd-height="430px" data-hd-align="left"></p>


Extrusion multiplier calibration

<p>Together with the <strong>Mesh Bed Leveling</strong>, the <strong>Bed Level Correction</strong> is an important feature designed to allow users to compensate for even the slightest imperfections in the first layer. It allows to virtually raise or lower the heatbed on the Left, Right, Front and Back sides, essentially enabling you to have a different Live Adjust Z value on each of the four sides of the heatbed. This feature is most beneficial if you frequently need to use the entire area of the heatbed. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Before you start the calibration, make sure there is nothing between the steel sheet and the heatbed.</div>
<h3>How to use Bed Level Correction</h3>
<p>The adjustment limit is +/- 100 microns (μm). However, even 20 microns can make a huge difference, so when using this function, <strong>make small</strong> incremental changes. The same way as Live-Z adjust, negative values lower the nozzle closer to the heatbed. </p>
<h4>Preliminary steps</h4>
<ol>
<li> Ensure you recently run the XYZ calibration for MK3/S/+, and the XY axis test, part of the self test, for MK3.5/S, MINI/+. </li>
<li> Clean the entire surface of your steel sheet with 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol. </li>
<li> Have a good baseline first layer calibration. Follow the dedicated instructions for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+, MK3.5/S</a>, and for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-mini-mini_229122">MINI/+</a>.</li>
<li>Ensure to have checked the possible causes described in the dedicated article on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">first-layer issues</a>. </li>
</ol>
<h4>Test models</h4>
<p>Download and slice <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/36706-bed-level-test">this test model</a> for your printer version using the Prusa Slicer's default PLA settings, 0.20 mm layer height.</p>
<h4>Procedure</h4>
<ol>
<li>Print the g-code prepared in the previous step with a PLA filament (ideally light and opaque color). The print is just one layer high and takes up most of the printable surface. You do not have to print the entire file, stop the print as soon as the differences in layer height across the plate are obvious.</li>
<li>Evaluate where the layer is too squished and full of scars and where there are gaps in between the lines. In the photo below, the lines are way too squished in the top-right corner, and the nozzle is too far away in the bottom-left.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2-300x194.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2-600x388.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2-768x496.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2-800x517.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>In the example above you want to adjust a minus-value on the left, bringing the nozzle closer and a plus-value on the right, moving the nozzle away. You may also need to adjust the distance front and back, but do a test print after adjusting the left and right side.</strong></p>
<ol start="3">
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Bed level correction</em>. There, you can adjust Left/Right/Front/Rear values (understood from your point of view, as you are looking at the printer's LCD).</li>
<li>Edit the values, we suggest going in steps of +/- 10. These values will be <strong>added to the baseline Live Z</strong> value set in step 1. <strong>Remember, a negative value will decrease the distance between the nozzle making the layer more squished. A positive value will increase the nozzle-bed distance, curing the scars on your first layer.</strong></li>
<li>Repeat the procedure until you are satisfied with the result (photo below for inspiration).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2-300x181.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2-600x362.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2-768x464.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2-800x483.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p>For example, let's say your Live adjust Z value is -1.000, and that the layer is too squished in the rear, and that you see gaps between the lines on the right side.</p>
<ul>
<li>Rear: you need to enter a positive value (at the end it will be 25 for example) to make the layer less squished</li>
<li>Right: you need to enter a negative value (at the end it will be -10 for example) to make the layer more squished</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">The Bed Level Correction values are reset to 0 every time you start the Calibration Wizard, or XYZ calibration/XY axes test. Once you find your ideal values, <strong>write them down</strong> as a backup.</div>


Bed Level Correction

<div class="warning-callout" style="text-align: center;">This is an <strong>advanced calibration</strong>, recommended only to <strong>experienced users</strong>.</div>
<p>Linear Advance (LA) is a technology that predicts the pressure build-up in the extruder when printing at higher speeds. The firmware of the printer uses that prediction to decrease the amount of filament extruded just before stopping and decelerating, which prevents blobs or artifacts at the sharp corners. What is referred to as '<strong>K-values</strong>' are the parameter determining how much Linear Advance affects the print.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6efca0f2a16b135a_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6efca0f2a16b135a_painted-600x226.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6efca0f2a16b135a_painted-800x302.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6efca0f2a16b135a_painted-300x113.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6efca0f2a16b135a_painted-768x289.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6efca0f2a16b135a_painted-1536x579.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="800" height="302" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>With firmware 3.9.0, we introduced <strong>Linear Advance 1.5</strong> for the Original Prusa MK3S, MK3, MK2.5S, and MK2.5, which was further improved upon with FW 3.9.1, addressing print artifacts found in specific scenarios and geometries. <strong>Linear Advance 1.5 is also backward compatible with version 1.0.</strong> In case you have a G-code with Linear Advance 1.0, the printer will analyze the code and convert the values automatically. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Print profiles for the Original Prusa MINI are well-tuned. Additionally, there has never been LA1.0 on the MINI, so no conversion (to LA1.5) is required.</div>
<h3>Configuration</h3>
<p><strong>These values are part of our PrusaSlicer configurations and filament presets. No need to adjust if you are using these.</strong> However, if you are using filaments not present or wish to play around with the presets, we have developed a <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/39968-la15-k-factor-calibration">K-factor calibration print</a> together with the community, to find the perfect K-values for your material and printing temperatures. These are based on the various quality and layer height presets found in PrusaSlicer.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>This article mainly refers to the printer use with a 0.4 mm brass nozzle.</strong> Other nozzle sizes or materials could result in different K-values.</div>
<p>It will print a series of lines with different K-values affecting the speed and flow across the accelerated distance. The examples below show how the lines are affected by their K-value. The first and last 25 mm are printed slowly, and between the marked locations (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">red squares</span>) 100mm is printed fast. Look closely at the transition from slow to fast and fast to slow. You see the line can be irregular to broken entirely when the value is not optimal, most visible on the top lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">red squares</span>), but present on all except those with the optimal K-factor. You also see big differences between different materials and how much difference it can make to have this dialed in.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a3fd54e25430a134_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a3fd54e25430a134_painted-600x333.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a3fd54e25430a134_painted-800x445.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a3fd54e25430a134_painted-300x167.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a3fd54e25430a134_painted-768x427.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a3fd54e25430a134_painted-1536x853.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="800" height="445" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Calibration G-code printed with PLA at 215 °C. Most consistent line achieved with K-value 0.05 (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green square</span>).</em></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/833220a75f06eb66_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/833220a75f06eb66_painted-600x337.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/833220a75f06eb66_painted-800x449.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/833220a75f06eb66_painted-300x168.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/833220a75f06eb66_painted-768x431.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/833220a75f06eb66_painted-1536x862.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="800" height="449" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Calibration G-code printed with ABS at 255 °C. Most consistent line achieved with K-value 0.04 (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green square</span>).</em></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0cdfd86fe8420add_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0cdfd86fe8420add_painted-600x334.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0cdfd86fe8420add_painted-800x446.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0cdfd86fe8420add_painted-300x167.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0cdfd86fe8420add_painted-768x428.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0cdfd86fe8420add_painted-1536x855.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="800" height="446" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Calibration G-code printed with PETG at 240 °C. Most consistent line achieved with K-value 0.08 (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green square</span>).</em></p>
<h3>Download calibration G-code</h3>
<p>You can download the <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/39968-la15-k-factor-calibration">K-factor calibration G-code</a> from our print depository or directly from the table below. <strong>These are for a 0.4 mm brass nozzle.</strong> Load the correct filament type for the G-code and start the print as any other.</p>
<table class="stripped" style="width: 100.026%; height: 208px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<th style="width: 21.0327%; height: 62.4px; text-align: center;" rowspan="2"><strong>Material</strong></th>
<th style="width: 78.8413%; height: 20.8px; background-color: #ecf0f1; text-align: center;" colspan="3"><strong>Layer height | Fastest speed | PrusaSlicer profile</strong></th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 41.6px;">
<td style="width: 26.1965%; height: 41.6px;">0.2mm | 45mm/s<br />QUALITY</td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 41.6px;">0.2mm | 60mm/s<br />SPEED</td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 41.6px;">0.3mm | 50mm/s<br />DRAFT</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<th style="width: 21.0327%; height: 20.8px;">PLA</th>
<td style="width: 26.1965%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397148_7b8fdb4d-e93a-4b32-bffa-13a1d532c39d/la1_5-pla-215c-0_2mm-45mms-0_95e_mult-quality-m.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397149_8956b37d-9f0d-46e7-8aa9-38197c204568/la1_5-pla-215c-0_2mm-60mms-0_95e_mult-speed-mk3.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397150_01c3c540-3d88-4c4f-ac25-2ec2bc729475/la1_5-pla-215c-0_3mm-50mms-0_95e_mult-draft-mk3.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<th style="width: 21.0327%; height: 20.8px;">PETG</th>
<td style="width: 26.1965%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397151_fafc8f11-4508-43a5-bf07-e88eb7bbb250/la1_5-petg-250c-0_2mm-45mms-0_95e_mult-quality-.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397152_896b7d67-b56c-42b1-843a-a5f1418ff976/la1_5-petg-250c-0_2mm-60mms-0_95e_mult-speed-mk.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397153_c0c94f9e-b01d-41dc-83ae-94d1ba4aa1c2/la1_5-petg-250c-0_3mm-50mms-0_95e_mult-draft-mk.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<th style="width: 21.0327%; height: 20.8px;">ASA</th>
<td style="width: 26.1965%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397154_c2bc4fe6-9348-4df9-b5c4-e4cad77a44ad/la1_5-asa-260c-0_2mm-45mms-0_95e_mult-quality-m.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397155_2fcb6450-09b2-4aa8-870a-8244c67d89a3/la1_5-asa-260c-0_2mm-60mms-0_95e_mult-speed-mk3.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397156_7bc48820-d097-4c53-a28e-e2c40beb9567/la1_5-asa-260c-0_3mm-50mms-0_95e_mult-draft-mk3.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<th style="width: 21.0327%; height: 20.8px;">PC</th>
<td style="width: 26.1965%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397157_f226895f-63d3-4dc9-a1a0-30d761cfd9d1/la1_5-pc-275c-0_2mm-45mms-0_95e_mult-quality-mk.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397158_91675062-93c9-4e65-a833-4cefd000e435/la1_5-pc-275c-0_2mm-60mms-0_95e_mult-speed-mk3s.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397159_9b848939-d76a-4297-9cc2-e246e85bf118/la1_5-pc-275c-0_3mm-50mms-0_95e_mult-draft-mk3s.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<th style="width: 21.0327%; height: 20.8px;">NYLON</th>
<td style="width: 26.1965%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397163_5971d17b-ec15-4b7a-91dd-a14b0b40c06d/la1_5-nylon-250c-0_2mm-45mms-0_95e_mult-quality.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397164_0ee8c9a6-d27b-43e3-a19f-c4fe27f90b30/la1_5-nylon-250c-0_2mm-60mms-0_95e_mult-speed-m.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397165_50a11dd1-9a53-4c5c-80d8-233b8be63321/la1_5-nylon-250c-0_3mm-50mms-0_95e_mult-draft-m.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<th style="width: 21.0327%; height: 20.8px;">ABS</th>
<td style="width: 26.1965%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397160_48843876-5846-4049-8bdc-630908e2236f/la1_5-abs-255c-0_2mm-45mms-0_95e_mult-quality-m.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397161_f53c1e14-426e-4cfb-bf49-d4410bbfaa63/la1_5-abs-255c-0_2mm-60mms-0_95e_mult-speed-mk3.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397162_c30fe62f-9383-4b25-bd69-4950e1a1950e/la1_5-abs-255c-0_3mm-50mms-0_95e_mult-draft-mk3.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<th style="width: 21.0327%; height: 20.8px;">HIPS</th>
<td style="width: 26.1965%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397166_22c1d753-3614-4d77-b70e-eda88d0e309f/la1_5-hips-220c-0_2mm-45mms-0_95e_mult-quality-.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397167_2251b3ca-3b44-444d-8dcc-7e36dc67f34c/la1_5-hips-220c-0_2mm-60mms-0_95e_mult-speed-mk.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
<td style="width: 26.3224%; height: 20.8px;"><a href="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/39968/gcodes/397168_25e48da7-e873-479e-afed-83077a5380cd/la1_5-hips-220c-0_3mm-50mms-0_95e_mult-draft-mk.gcode" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Download</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>If your usual printing temperatures are different than what is provided, feel free to modify the G-Code lines to your needs.</p>
<p>Change the "S" values, which is the temperature in Celcius:</p>
<table class="stripped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 8.95597%;"> </td>
<td style="width: 55.3036%;">M104 S215 ; Set nozzle temperature (no wait)<br />M140 S60 ; set bed temp<br />M190 S60 ; wait for bed temp<br />M109 S215 ; Wait for nozzle temp</td>
<td style="width: 32.2418%;"> </td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Optimal K-values and how to adjust</h3>
<p>The optimal values we found in our testing are listed in the tables below. These can be implemented into any slicer. Please note that different brands and colors of the same material may require a slightly different K value when printing at <strong>extreme speeds</strong>, however, our presets should be fine with all of them. </p>
<h4>0.4 mm nozzle</h4>
<table class="stripped" style="width: 100.026%; height: 166.4px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 20.8px; text-align: left;">PLA</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 20.8px;">0.05</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 20.8px; text-align: left;">PETG</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 20.8px;">0.08 </td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 20.8px; text-align: left;">CPE </td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 20.8px;">0.07</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 20.8px; text-align: left;">PC Blend</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 20.8px;">0.07</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 20.8px; text-align: left;">ASA/ABS</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 20.8px;">0.04</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 20.8px; text-align: left;">HIPS</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 20.8px;">0.04 (some brands may need a higher K-value)</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 20.8px; text-align: left;">Nylon Taulman</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 20.8px;">0.08</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 20.8px; text-align: left;">Nylon FX256 </td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 20.8px;">0.1</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>0.6 mm nozzle</h4>
<div>
<table class="stripped">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 17px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 17px; text-align: left;">PLA</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 17px;">0.04</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 17px; text-align: left;">PETG</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 17px;">0.04 - 0.05</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 17px; text-align: left;">PC Blend</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 17px;">0.04</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 17px; text-align: left;">ASA/ABS</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 17px;">0.02 - 0.03</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 15.3093%; height: 17px; text-align: left;">HIPS</td>
<td style="width: 45.422%; height: 17px;">0.03 (some brands may need a higher K-value)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div class="warning-callout">Be careful when setting new K-values. Changing them is <strong>recommended only for experienced users</strong>. Back up your settings before you adjust them.</div>
<h4>PrusaSlicer</h4>
<p>As mentioned, the K-values for all filaments are already implemented into PrusaSlicer's presets. If you need to adjust these settings due to some exotic filament or a specific application, the K-value is set in the custom G-code section in the <em>Filament Settings tab</em>, NOT under the printer-specific custom G-code.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong><span style="color: #236fa1;">The blue arrow and box show the number to change for</span> a 0.6 mm nozzle.</strong></li>
<li><strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">The green arrow and box show the number to change for</span> a 0.4mm nozzle.</strong></li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/a89eeac3035ec675_painted.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/a89eeac3035ec675_painted-600x161.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/a89eeac3035ec675_painted-800x215.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/a89eeac3035ec675_painted-300x80.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/a89eeac3035ec675_painted-768x206.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/a89eeac3035ec675_painted-1536x412.png 1536w" alt="" width="1600" height="429" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Other slicers</h4>
<p>If you are using a different slicer than our PrusaSlicer, you must manually change the settings in the G-code script of your slicer. </p>
<p><strong>Simplify3D, Cura, etc.</strong> users just need to add “M900 Kxx” into the starting G-code script. Keep in mind you need to manually change that for different filament materials. <strong>Only PrusaSlicer has a custom G-code for each filament preset</strong> and therefore the K value is changed automatically. Set the desired speed and print something (large enough for speed to show up). If sharp corners have blobs, <strong>increase the K value</strong>. If you see missing filament, <strong>decrease the K value</strong>.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Users of Simplify3D, Cura, etc. should change their LA adjustments in their slicer when they install firmware 3.9.0 or newer!</div>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">If you are interested in a more in-depth explanation of how Linear Advance works, check out the <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/releases/tag/v3.9.0">Prusa firmware changelog on GitHub</a> or <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html">vanilla Marlin's pages</a>.</div>
</div>

Linear Advance

<p>Every FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) printer requires a First Layer Calibration, which <strong>sets the vertical "Z" distance between the nozzle and the print surface</strong>. Sometimes this value needs <strong>a slight adjustment</strong> and for this situation, there is an option called "<strong>Live adjust Z"</strong> <em>(as you are mostly tuning it live during the first layers of your print).</em> The reason for adjusting the distance is to <strong>provide better adhesion</strong> of the extruded filament.</p>
<h3><strong>How does it work?</strong></h3>
<p>It is important to know the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>the default value before the First layer calibration starts at zero (0.000) for all printers</li>
<li>to get <strong>closer to the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>counter-clockwise</strong> and further <strong>increase the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.500 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.700...)</li>
<li>to get <strong>further from the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>clockwise</strong> and continue <strong>lowering the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.700 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.500...)</li>
</ul>
<p>The values of the <em>Live adjust Z</em> are typically in the range of -1.500 to -0.200. Going above zero into the positive values is not possible, this indicates either an issue with the measuring sensor (M.I.N.D.A., P.I.N.D.A., SuperPINDA) or incorrect alignment.</p>
<p>The correctly assembled print head has <strong>the sensor always slightly above the nozzle</strong>, never at an equal level or below the nozzle (see the picture below). <em>The exact position can slightly vary, use the last chapter of the assembly manual of your printer to set the rough distance.</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04.jpeg" alt="" width="718" height="350" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S extruder</em></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (while printing)</h3>
<p>The most common approach is to perform the <em>Live Adjust Z</em> during the print. Go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt;</em> <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z.</em></span> This will show the <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z</em></span> value you have set in the First layer calibration. From here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-600x194.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-800x258.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-300x97.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-768x248.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">PRO tip: shortcut from the main screen, while printing the first few layers press and hold the knob for a few seconds to access the <em>Live adjust Z</em> screen.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Adjusting Live adjust Z value while printing is permanent</strong>, not only for the ongoing print! The new value will also remain after you turn OFF the printer.</div>
</div>
<div>In the picture below you can see examples of different <em>Live adjust Z</em> values. If the nozzle is too high from the surface, the filament won't stick properly (left), if the nozzle is too close to the surface, the filament won't be able to "flow out" leading to a potential clog of the nozzle (right).</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" alt="" width="1132" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (before the print)</h3>
<p>You can also change the value while the printer is at rest from <em>LCDMenu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Live adjust Z.</em> You will see the value set previously during the First layer calibration, and from here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-600x194.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-800x258.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-300x97.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-768x248.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<p><strong>The Live adjust Z should be used only to fine-tune the distance</strong>. For example, PETG and other high-temperature materials require to be squished in the surface slightly more as they tend to warp (lift up), compared to the PLA. If you have replaced the sensor or disassembled the print head (extruder) you should run the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> instead.</p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (LoadCell)</h3>
<p>The <strong>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL</strong> are equipped with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">LoadCell</a>, that will calibrate the first layer automatically. In case you would still like to fine-tune it, you can long-press the knob while the first layer is printed. The Live Adjust Z will not be saved for the next print in this case.</p>
<p>If you have constant issues with the first layer on a Prusa printer with the Loadcell, check the dedicated paragraphs from the general <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804#expansion-joints-mk4-mk39-mk35">first layer issues article</a>. </p>


Live adjust Z

<p>The Original Prusa FFF printers and upgrades use a screw(s) with a spring(s) to provide tension between the filament and the filament pulley. It is important to have this tension correct. If too loose the pulley will not be able to "grab" the filament, while if it is too tight the extruder motor can overexert itself and even start grinding the filament. With the exception of the MK2/S and MMU1, the correct tension remains the same across all of our printers. </p>
<div class="note-callout">When printing flexible filaments (TPU/TPE) you want the screw even looser than what is depicted here. Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-materials_2057">Flexible materials</a> for more information.</div>
<h3>MK4/S, MK3.9, XL</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL</strong> have two idler screws, that are inserted into the Idler Nut. The Idler Nut keeps the Idler, the part that includes the two driven gears, in place. <strong>The tips of the screws must be aligned with the front surface of the Idler Nut</strong>. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 314px; border-style: none;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 296px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/82bb1f4ac9764ed357d23ad504dc4973.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Idler screw tension (review)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/614e3711fa97945e08f5434dd90a0504.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Idler screw tension (review)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4S, MK3.9S</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4, MK3.9</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/9f1a99bac9ee4251f461e2af97955e65_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/d71509c5da95a3bf5f081132ad6e2869.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="263" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK4 with MMU3-modified extruder</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa XL</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>On the Original Prusa XL, the dwarf-cover-door prevents access to adjusting the idler tension screws. </p>
<p>On single-head XL, it is possible to gain access by <span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>rotating the dwarf-cover-door</strong></span>. On dual-head and five-head XL, with the tool in the <strong>parked</strong> position, <span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>loosen the M3x12 bolt</strong></span> to remove the dwarf-cover-door. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/f8d3940f26dd204ea309f6bad12a697a_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Hotend Heater Overcurrent #17322" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/c9f81ea9acb8359339663218c7536d58_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Hotend Heater Overcurrent #17322" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+/MK3.5/MK3.5S</h3>
<p><strong>The idler screw should be about flush to protruding 0.5 -1 mm with the plastic part</strong> when the filament is not loaded.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 314px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 296px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 296px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/ee967edc46e92f22_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3S</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3S+</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MMU3 unit</h3>
<p>Both Idler tension screws should be adjusted so that the top of the screw head is flush or slightly above the top surface of the idler-body, as a default setting.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/5558cf0ae35a537a_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Idler screw tension" width="1600" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/13d08877b40afea6_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Idler screw tension" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MMU2S unit</h3>
<p>The MMU2S requires a slightly different extruder but also has 1 idler-screw on the left side of the extruder, like the picture above. Roughly the same tension should be applied but it should only be adjusted as a part of the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ir-filament-sensor-calibration-mmu3-mmu2s_2245">IR filament sensor calibration</a>.</p>
<p>In addition to the screw on the extruder, the MMU2S unit itself has two tension screws on top (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span> left picture), applying pressure to the filament upon load/unload. <strong>These should be slightly below the surface of the plastic part (about 1 millimeter) when the filament is not loaded to the nozzle</strong> (right picture<strong>).</strong></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b5a4d8f48bb56027.jpg" width="500" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7895%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/381b6af53da89771_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MINI/MINI+</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI/+ has its idler screw on the bottom of the extruder, located on the Z-axis extrusion. This too should be about flush with the plastic, when the filament is not loaded.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><em><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-600x400.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0000da5fe874fa5a_painted-1536x1023.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="266" loading="lazy" /></em></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><em><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlerscrw-1536x1024.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>MK3/MK2.5</h3>
<p>This extruder design has two idler screws. <strong>The head of the screw should be about flush to sticking out 1 - 1.5 mm when a filament is loaded.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>MK2S</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MK2S had a different extruder design. It has two screws, where the length of the springs <strong>should be circa 13 mm when tightened</strong>. After some use, it is ok to tighten them a little bit more, but the two screws must be equal.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e45b5f6259af9be1_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>

Idler screw tension

<p>The XYZ calibration is a process, which checks, whether the printer was assembled correctly and the axes are perpendicular to each other. It measures the skew of your X/Y axis and applies compensations for any imperfections. It may indicate two sets of error messages <strong>compromised/failed.</strong> See below for a detailed description.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>XYZ calibration is needed for the kit version</strong>, the factory assembled printer is already calibrated.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1-246x300.jpg 246w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1-328x400.jpg 328w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1-768x937.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1-492x600.jpg 492w" alt="" width="328" height="400"></p>
<p>XYZ calibration is a part of the <strong>Wizard</strong>, which will appear on the first boot or after a factory reset. In case you have skipped the Wizard, you can start it manually from the <em>LCD Menu - Calibration - Wizard.</em></p>
<p>If you wish to redo the XYZ calibration and you have finished the <strong>Selftest</strong> successfully, you can start the XYZ calibration separately through the <em>LCD Menu - Calibration - XYZ cal.&nbsp;</em></p>
<div class="warning-callout">For <strong>MK3S+ printers, which have the SuperPINDA</strong> installed, you <strong>MUST use firmware version 3.9.2, or above!</strong></div>
<h2>Calibration walkthrough</h2>
<ol>
<li>The printer will start the calibration by aligning the Z-axis. <strong>Make sure that both ends of the X-axis reached the top</strong>.</li>
<li>In the next step, the printer asks whether you have the steel sheet on the heated bed. <span style="color: #953734;" data-hd-color="rgb(149, 55, 52)"><span style="color: #c0504d;" data-hd-color="rgb(192, 80, 77)"><strong>R</strong></span></span><span style="color: #953734;" data-hd-color="rgb(149, 55, 52)"><span style="color: #c0504d;" data-hd-color="rgb(192, 80, 77)"><strong>em</strong></span></span><span style="color: #c0504d;" data-hd-color="rgb(192, 80, 77)"><strong>ove the steel sheet for the upcoming initial 4 point calibration now and select No.</strong></span></li>
<li>Check that the&nbsp;<strong>nozzle is clean</strong> and confirm the on-screen prompt.</li>
<li>Place a sheet of paper (e.g. the included cheat sheet) between the nozzle and the heatbed. If the nozzle catches the paper, <strong>immediately&nbsp;</strong>press the <strong>Reset button.</strong> Your P.I.N.D.A. sensor is probably set too high. Lower it down by 2 - 3 threads and run the XYZ calibration again. More info below.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not leave the printer unattended during this calibration, otherwise, you may end up with a scratched heatbed. The paper is just an indicator, not protection!!!</strong></div>
<ol start="5">
<li style="counter-increment: li 4;">Once the first routine finishes, <strong>place the steel sheet on the heated bed and confirm the on-screen prompt</strong>. The printer will perform a full 9 point mesh bed leveling. All of the measured compensations will be stored in non-volatile memory.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Troubleshooting the XYZ calibration</h3>
<p>Click here for explanations of <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-error-messages-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_112340">XYZ-calibration error-messages (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a>.</p>
<p>If you encounter any error messages, there is most likely something wrong with the assembly of your printer.</p>
<p>Please perform the following tasks:</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure you followed the instructions on the LCD precisely. Especially make sure that the X-axis moved to the very top. Otherwise, the Z-axis might be misaligned.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Make sure that the cable harness leading from the extruder, or zip ties securing it, does <strong>not hit the cover of the EINSY RAMBo board</strong> before it reaches the end of the X-axis.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_28536">E-axis assembly</a>. Make sure that the hotend is perfectly inserted in the extruder.&nbsp;<br />
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 448px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%;">
<p>Make sure the heatsink is slotted into both slots (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span>), the short side of the heaterblock is facing forward (<span style="color: #e67e23;">orange ruler</span>), with its wires running back alongside the left side of the heaterblock (<span style="color: #3598db;">blue arrow</span>).</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 431px; text-align: left;">
<td style="width: 100%; height: 431px;">
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/610768775d4aa1a1_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/610768775d4aa1a1_painted-497x400.jpeg 497w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/610768775d4aa1a1_painted-745x600.jpeg 745w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/610768775d4aa1a1_painted-300x242.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/610768775d4aa1a1_painted-768x618.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/610768775d4aa1a1_painted-1536x1236.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="510" height="410"></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</li>
<li>Make sure nothing blocks the movement of any of the axis. You can easily test that by moving the extruder or heatbed through&nbsp;<strong>LCD Menu - Settings - Move axis (X/Y).</strong> Simply move it from one end to the other and inspect the movement.</li>
<li>Make sure that your P.I.N.D.A. or SuperPINDA sensor is roughly 1 mm higher than the tip of the nozzle. Distancing the P.I.N.D.A. sensor is covered in the assembly manual Part <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_36224">9. Preflight check</a>.<br />
<img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04-300x146.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04-600x293.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04-768x374.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04-800x390.jpeg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04.jpeg"></li>
<li>There is also a small possibility that your P.I.N.D.A. sensor could be defective. The easiest way how to check that is to navigate to <em>LCD Menu - Support - Sensor info.</em>While placing anything metal (e.g. a spatula) under the P.I.N.D.A. sensor. The P.I.N.D.A. value should change from <strong>0 to 1</strong>. More information can be found in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091">P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing</a>.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you have just recently updated your Firmware version and XYZ calibration is <strong>repeatedly</strong> failing without any apparent reason, we recommend doing a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/full-system-refresh-original-prusa-i3_133258">full system refresh</a>.</div>

XYZ Calibration (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)

<p>The Original Prusa FDM printers have a sensor to detect distance from the print surface. During a calibration, and before each print, the sensor will go through a number of points, in a grid pattern, spread across the build-plate (whether it is a powder-coated or smooth PEI sheet does not matter), and measures the distance to the sheet. These points are interpolated and used to create a virtual mesh of the bed. During printing, if the bed is slightly warped, the sensor will still precisely follow the surface according to its measured mesh</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-300x170.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-600x341.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-768x436.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/meshbed-800x455.jpg 800w" width="614" height="348" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK2/S, MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+</h3>
<p>These printer models up to MK3S are equipped with a PINDA sensor, while the MK3S+ and MK3.5/S are equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor.</p>
<p>The StallGuard for the Z-axis is active during the mesh bed leveling. In case the nozzle crashes into the bed before the PINDA/SuperPINDA sensor triggers, the calibration process is interrupted and the user is asked to check the nozzle for any kind of debris.</p>
<h4>Mesh bed leveling settings</h4>
<div class="note-callout">This feature is available starting from firmware 3.7.0.</div>
<p>The Mesh bed leveling settings can be found within <em>Settings - Mesh bed Leveling</em>, on the LCD menu. There you have the following options:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mesh (3x3 - 7x7)</li>
<li>Z-probe nr. (1 - 3 - 5)</li>
<li>Magnet comp. (ON / OFF)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Mesh:</strong> The default grid density is 3x3 (9 points). However, if you still experience uneven first layer adhesion, you can increase the density in Settings - Mesh bed leveling - Mesh to 7x7 (49 points).</p>
<p><strong>Z-probe nr.:</strong> Changing the Z-sensor nr. you change how many times will each point be measured. We suggest either 3 or 5 measurements per point since the final value is calculated as an average value. Changing these settings affects how long will the Mesh bed leveling procedure takes to complete.</p>
<p><strong>Magnet comp.:</strong> With 7x7 Mesh bed leveling, you can choose whether or not to use Magnets compensation. 3 of the 49 points are so close to magnets, that the reading can be off by as much as 80μm (microns). Magnet compensation ignores readings from these 3 points and calculates them from the surrounding points. <strong>We suggest leaving this function on.</strong></p>
<h4>Enforcing the Z-calibration</h4>
<p>If the mesh bed leveling is interrupted during the procedure, before a print, a message will appear on the screen stating "Enforcing the Z-calibration" and the printer will re-home and run through the procedure again. This can occur if there is debris on the nozzle pushing the bed down when probing, or if you touch and press the bed while it is probing. This will bring the deviance above a certain threshold and it will simply make another attempt to run the Mesh Bed Leveling. This is to avoid starting it from the menu again if the problem was simply an accident. If the problem remains, it will repeat this procedure three times before canceling the print.</p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091">P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MINI/+</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI is equipped with a M.I.N.D.A. sensor, while the Original Prusa MINI+ is equipped with a SuperPINDA sensor. The grid density is 4x4. </p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/m-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing-mini-mini_134021">M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor testing (MINI/MINI+)</a> to resolve any issue.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, XL</h3>
<p>The <strong>Original Prusa MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL </strong>are equipped with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">LoadCell</a>, to detect that the nozzle is close enough to the steel sheet for printing, and to avoid damage that would be caused by the nozzle digging into the steel sheet. </p>
<p>Before a print, the nozzle will check the distance to the print sheet in several places to create a virtual height map of the surface. The points are measured within the area of the chosen print. </p>


Mesh bed leveling

<p>This error can appear during the Self-test or the XYZ-calibration when the firmware detects a shorter distance of axis travel than expected. The exact length of each axis is stored in the printer's memory. Depending on where it is triggered, it will name the running process (Selftest, XYZ calibration, etc.) and will state the message "<strong><em>Please</em> c<em>heck: Axis length</em></strong>" on the display and the letter for the problematic axis, <strong>in the bottom right ("<em>X/Y/Z</em>")</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-300x102.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-600x204.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-768x261.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fa4fcd5d6dae0834_painted-800x272.jpeg 800w" alt="" width="600" height="204"></p>
<div class="note-callout">The length of the respective axis is determined on the Original Prusa MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ and MMU2S printers using the Trinamic stepper-drivers, which are detecting the end of each axis by the rise of the current going to the motor. In rare scenarios, the printer movement may not indicate an issue, while the test fails.</div>
<h3>Possible causes for X/Y-axis</h3>
<p>Most often it indicates an issue on the hardware level, and as it is the same method used for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-detection_2100">Crash detection</a> on the Original Prusa MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ printers, the issue should initially be troubleshot the same way. Check that belts and pulleys are installed as is shown in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">Assembly manual</a>, and make sure the axis can move smoothly along the full length of the axis, in both directions. Nothing should be loose. Make sure the pulley set-screw is secured on the <strong>flat side of the motor shaft.</strong> See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/crash-detection_2100">Crash detection</a> for more information.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 50%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1810190fc149f19_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
<td style="width: 50%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7010d530fa7ada17_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center;">Correct <strong>X-axis</strong> pulley orientation and position.</td>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center;">Correct <strong>Y-axis</strong> pulley orientation and position.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Take a look at the extruder from behind, make sure that the cable bundle with the textile sleeve (or spiral wrap) isn't too wide, and touching the frame of the printer before the extruder can move to the initial position.</p>
<h4>Position of zip ties on the cable-holder</h4>
<p>Make sure the zip ties are situated exactly like instructed in the assembly manual. You want the top zip ties on the very top (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span>) or cleanly against the printed <em>cable-holder</em>. <strong>Zip ties must not interfere with either end of the axis <em>Einsy-door</em> or the PSU.</strong> Move the extruder to each end and check if the zip ties are touching either end.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">In general, always make sure your cable management and assembly of the extruder <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_169235#170224">is exactly as instructed in all steps of the assembly manual</a>.</div>
<p>The bottom zip ties holding the heater and thermistor cable must also be positioned so they do not interfere with the ends of the axis (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrows</span>), but also <strong>do not touch the Heatbed-cable-cover</strong>. Make sure they are cut flush with the head of the zip tie.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b3b6bbaa512c9db5_painted-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="400"></p>
<h3>Possible causes for Z-axis</h3>
<p>The main end-stop of the Z-axis is the <span class="tooltip" data-tooltip="p-i-n-d-a-sensor_125447">P.I.N.D.A. sensor,</span> so you should first make sure this is not set too high or not working correctly. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing_2091">P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing</a> for more information.</p>
<p>However, more often there is an issue with your assembly, which interferes with the distance traveled. You need to look over your assembly and pay extra attention to <strong>the orientation of the Trapezoid nuts</strong> (Z lead screw). A section of its threads should be inside the printed part, not protruding up from the printed part. The highest point should be the M3 bolts securing the Trapezoid nuts. Also, if the error occurs during calibration, make sure nothing is touching the bed, i.e. a zip-tie on the bundle of cables.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/636b2adebdda2247_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w" alt="" width="450" height="450"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%; text-align: center;">Correct orientation of the Trapezoid nut (Z lead screw).</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Another possible cause is that you have loaded an incorrect version of the firmware. For instance, the extruder for the Original Prusa MK3 and MK3S/MK3S+ are of different size, and therefore have a different length of expected travel. <strong>Always make sure you are using the correct firmware.</strong></p>
<p>For more info on issues with the Z-axis, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/failing-z-calibration-mk3s-mk2-5s_160858">Failing Z calibration (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a>.</p>
<h3>Lubrication</h3>
<p>Try to lubricate the smooth rods, as instructed in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">Maintenance tips</a>. The Original Prusa MK3S/MK3S+ is supplied with a tube of lubricant.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusa-lubricant-005g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="400"></p>

Check Axis Length X/Y/Z (MK3S)

<p>PID tuning is a calibration procedure that ensures the printer holds a stable target temperature at all times. PID (Proportional Integral Derivate) is used on the Original Prusa printers to maintain a stable temperature <strong>on the hotend</strong>. You can use the PID tuning to calibrate its values in case you are experiencing small fluctuations in temperature readings of your printer's nozzle (e.g +/- 5 °C).&nbsp;</p>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout">If you are experiencing major temperature fluctuations, <strong>higher than +/-5 °C</strong>, there could be a problem with your fan or thermistor wire/connector.</div>
</div>
<h3>How to perform PID tuning</h3>
<p>Starting with firmware version 2.0.12., PID tuning is an optional calibration procedure, which is super easy to perform. It can be found in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; PID calibration.</em></p>
<p>Follow these steps:&nbsp;</p>
<ol>
<li>Once you open the&nbsp;<strong>PID calibration&nbsp;</strong>menu, set the temperature at which the calibration should run.</li>
<li>To achieve optimal results, select a temperature you use most often during your prints (e.g. the temperature for PLA, PETG, or other favorite material).</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">The PID tuning will increase the stability for all temperatures, it is not necessary to make it multiple times for different temperatures.</div>
<ol start="3">
<li>The nozzle will heat up to the selected temperature in 5 cycles. During these cycles, the printer will determine the amount of power needed to reach the user-defined temperature and maintain it.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/pid-2.jpg"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Be aware that PID tuning is not a solution for every temperature fluctuation issue. Always make sure that your printer is located in a dry environment with a stable temperature over 20 °C and no breeze.</div>


PID tuning

<div class="warning-callout">This is an <strong>advanced calibration</strong>, recommended only to <strong>experienced users</strong>.</div>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">This calibration only works on the firmware version 3.2.0 or newer and only works on the Original Prusa MK3 and MK3S, due to the Trinamic stepper drivers of the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/einsy-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2107">Einsy RAMBo</a>.</div>
</div>
<p>Linearity correction is based on the Trinamic stepper driver feature that allows defining a custom current-waveform. The default Trinamic waveform is a sine function, but the real waveform can be a little bit different and depends on the stepper motor type. Also, motors of the same type can have different waveforms. The biggest distortion appears when the wave is crossing the zero point (or around it), so the original sine wave is modified using power function to eliminate this distortion.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">This article addresses linear correction for the Extruder only.</div>
<h2>Linearity correction calibration procedure</h2>
<ol>
<li>Go to your printer's LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Lin.Correction-&gt;E correct, and then turn it off</li>
<li>Download and print the <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/36709-extruder-linearity-correction-calibration-tower">Calibration g-code</a></li>
<li>You will observe that some diagonal moire lines will appear on the tower. Find a place with the best surface on the calibration object.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/extruder-linearity-small.jpg" /></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Focus especially on 45-degree lines visible as a darker reflection</div>
<ol start="4">
<li>Most printers will have minimal distortion around the vertical center of the object (value 1.10), but yours might be different. <strong>Note your ideal value.</strong></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ECOR_TOWER.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ECOR_TOWER-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ECOR_TOWER-400x400.jpg 400w" alt="Ecor Tower" width="436" height="435" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="5">
<li>Enable the E-correction again in LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Lin.Correction-&gt;E correct. Adjust the value to the one that you were happy with.
<div class="note-callout">
<p>In <strong>firmware 3.13.0 </strong>and newer, there has been a change in the menu numbering system for the correction factor, ranging from 0 to 200.</p>
<p>Here's how it corresponds:</p>
<p>Correction factor 1.03 is represented as 030 in the menu.<br />Correction factor 1.11 is represented as 110 in the menu.</p>
</div>
</li>
<li>Print something and see if the diagonal lines are still there. If so, please go back to <strong>step 3</strong>.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Calibration object GitHub page- <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa3D-Test-Objects/tree/master/MK3/ECOR_TOWER">ECOR_TOWER</a>.</div>


Extruder linearity correction calibration

<p>While troubleshooting your printer, you should always try to fix the isolated issue by either replacing the damaged component or flashing a new firmware, which fixes the bug. However, sometimes it is not enough and you might need to <strong>perform a full system refresh</strong>, which will delete all stored values, settings and effectively revert the system back to the factory defaults. This article is an abridged explanation of a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/factory-reset-mk2s-mk2-5s-mk3s_2216">full factory reset</a>, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227">flashing the firmware</a> then <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/1-introduction_24976">recalibrate from scratch</a>, followed by two additional calibrations. </p>
<p>Doing <strong>the whole procedure</strong> not only assure your system is clean and up to date, but also gives us the best outset for efficient troubleshooting. </p>
<h3>Step 1 - Factory reset</h3>
<p>First, the full factory reset. This clears old calibration and voltage data not wiped by a Firmware update. Between firmware versions, there can be leftover calibration data no longer supported, or values that have changed index. </p>
<div class="warning-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>This procedure will remove all calibration data, settings, and statistics from your machine!</strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Hit the reset button, the X on your LCD module, immediately followed by pressing and holding the selector knob.</li>
<li>After a few seconds, you will hear a beep and get a new screen that says "Factory RESET". Now, release the knob and a menu will appear.</li>
<li>Scroll down the menu and select "All data". Let it do its thing and the system is now cleared. </li>
</ol>
<p>Once back in the system it will prompt you to run the wizard. <strong>Ignore this for now.</strong></p>
<h3>Step 2 - Flashing FW</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">If you skipped the previous step, stop now, go back and do the factory reset. You must do <strong>this whole procedure!</strong></div>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">Tip: If you are flashing firmware for the first time, use our comprehensive step-by-step guide with pictures <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227">How to update firmware (MK3S+/MK3S/MK3)</a></div>
</div>
<ol>
<li>Download the latest firmware for your printer, from the left column, at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">prusa3d.com/drivers/</a></li>
<li>Unzip the file, connect your printer to your computer with the supplied USB cable, and open PrusaSlicer.</li>
<li>Navigate to <em>Configuration -&gt; Flash printer firmware</em>, on the top-bar in PrusaSlicer.</li>
<li>Browse to the HEX file, extracted from the file you downloaded, and click "Open".</li>
<li>Select the COM port of your printer or hit Autodetect/Rescan. </li>
<li>Hit "Flash!" and let it complete its magic. You will have an indicator in the flasher and on the LCD screen.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Step 3 - Calibration Wizard</h3>
<div>Now you can proceed with the Calibration wizard, which will guide you until you have finally completed the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a>.</div>
<div> </div>
<h3>Step 4 - PID- and Temp. calibration (Original Prusa MK3S/MK2.5S)</h3>
<div>Almost there, two more optional, but highly recommended steps to be sure absolutely everything is in order. To make sure everything is tip-top, we will run <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/pid-tuning_2265">PID tuning</a> of the hotend, and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/temperature-calibration_133266">Temperature Calibration</a> of the P.I.N.D.A. sensor.</div>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">Since the superPINDA does not have a thermistor, <strong>temperature calibration is not available or necessary for the MK3S+.</strong></div>
</div>
<ol>
<li>Navigate the LCD menu to <em>Calibration -&gt; PID calibration</em>, and select. It will ask you what temperature to use. If you print mostly with PLA, leave it as is. If you print mostly PETG or ABS, adjust it to 240, but this will not really matter much. Let it run and finish before moving to the next step.</li>
<li>On the same Calibration-menu, you will find <em>Temperature Calibration</em>. Initiate and let this run through its steps according to the on-screen instructions. This can take 15-20 min. <strong>This is especially important if you are having any leveling issues.</strong></li>
</ol>
<p>After this, run the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> again, making sure it is set correctly, with the P.I.N.D.A. sensor calibrated.</p>
<p>Success! Your printers system is now sparkling clean. This will rule out any firmware-issue, should there be something you are troubleshooting.</p>


Full system refresh Original Prusa i3

<p>All induction proximity probes alter the sensing distance with increased temperature. This might affect the quality of the first printed layer. P.I.N.D.A. v2 probe, included in the MK3S/MK3/MK2.5S/MK2.5, has an embedded thermistor inside its body to measure the temperature and fully compensate for the drift. A pre-calibrated data table is stored in the printer and the temperature calibration is active by default.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Since there is no thermistor in the SuperPINDA, temperature calibration is not available or necessary on the MK3S+ or MK2.5/MK2.5S equipped with the SuperPINDA.</div>
<p>However, it can drift out of calibration over time, and you may also find this calibration helpful when weather and temperatures change in the spring and autumn.</p>
<p>The calibration is fully automatic, but we will lead you through it so you know it went OK.</p>
<ol>
<li>Start by taking off the Flexible steel sheet.</li>
<li>Navigate the LCD-menu to <em>Calibration -&gt; Temperature calibration</em>. Once selected, the printer will home all axes in order to ensure the correct initial position, and warn you it needs an ambient temperature from 21-26 °C (70 - 80 °F) and a stable surface, then ask if the Steel sheet is on the bed. Make sure it is not on and Select "NO".</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you have just heated the printer, the P.I.N.D.A. sensor will need to cool below 35 °C (95 °F). It will move up and show the state of the cooling on the display.</div>
<ol start="3">
<li>The extruder will move in over the bed-surface, stop, and with the pinda positioned over the bed, heat up the bed from 75 - 110 °C (167 - 230 °F), across six parts, while checking the readings given by the stationary PI.N.D.A. sensor.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TempCalib-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TempCalib-1-300x101.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TempCalib-1-600x203.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TempCalib-1-768x259.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TempCalib-1-800x270.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1331" height="450"></p>
<div class="note-callout">When completed it will move the extruder back to the home-position and give you the message "Temperature calibration is finished and active", and where to turn it off.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tempcalibfini-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tempcalibfini-1-300x110.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tempcalibfini-1-600x219.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tempcalibfini-1-768x280.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/tempcalibfini-1-800x292.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1233" height="450"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Pro tip: You can check temperature-readings from all thermistors on the Original Prusa MK3S/MK3/MK2.5S/MK2.5 from <em>Support -&gt; Temperatures</em>, on the LCD-menu.</div>
<p>This calibration can take 15-20 minutes to go through. The temperature-calibration has to run after a completed XYZ-calibration, and it can be recommended to run PID-calibration beforehand, should you receive any errors, like "<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/thermal-runaway-i3-series_2131">Thermal Runaway</a>", when running the calibration.</p>


Temperature Calibration

<p>The Calibration failed error occurs once there is a problem with the calibration. The printer was unable to properly detect the calibration point/s and can not successfully finish the calibration. In order to operate the printer, you must find the source of the problem and fix it.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">For <strong>MK2.5/MK2.5S printers that have the SuperPINDA</strong> installed, you <strong>MUST use firmware version 3.9.3, or above!</strong></div>
<div class="note-callout">
<p>There can be&nbsp;<strong>five different error messages</strong> related to the Calibration failure:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>XYZ calibration failed. Bed calibration point was not found.</li>
<li>XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual.</li>
<li>XYZ calibration failed. Left front calibration point not reachable.</li>
<li>XYZ calibration failed. Right front calibration point not reachable.</li>
<li>XYZ calibration failed. Front calibration points not reachable.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/XYZ-calibration-failed.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/XYZ-calibration-failed-600x193.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/XYZ-calibration-failed-800x258.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/XYZ-calibration-failed-300x97.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/XYZ-calibration-failed-768x247.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/XYZ-calibration-failed.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="193" data-image="1523882324336"></p>
<h3>Troubleshooting</h3>
<h4>Bed calibration point was not found &amp; Please consult the manual</h4>
<p>Both of these error messages point to the same source. The printer was unable to find any of the calibration points. Therefore, there is almost for sure something wrong with the assembly. Don't re-assemble your printer just yet, but see the troubleshooting points of the following articles.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_112351#troubleshooting-the-xyz-calibration">XYZ calibration troubleshooting</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/check-axis-length-x-y-z-mk3s_134223">Check Axis Length X/Y/Z (MK3S)</a></li>
</ul>
<h4>Left, Right, or Front calibration points not reachable</h4>
<p>Unlike the other error messages related to the calibration, in this one, the printer was actually able to find some calibration points, but not all of them. However, troubleshooting remains the same. As that is the only way how to easily find out where the problem lies.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before you start, remove the steel sheet if you own the Original Prusa i3 MK3 or MK2.5.</div>
<ol>
<li>Go to LCD Menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Auto home.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Inspect where the PINDA sensor ends up. It must be within the First calibration point.</li>
<li>After checking the 1st calibration point, move the extruder with your hand, to the other end of the heatbed and inspect the 2nd calibration point.&nbsp;</li>
<li>If the PINDA sensor wasn't inside of any of the circles. Follow the instructions in the PINDA sensor misaligned.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>


Calibration failed

<p>The Selftest checks for issues in the assembly of the printer, its wiring and the electronic components. It is the first part of the Calibration Wizard, which is prompted <strong>automatically</strong> when you turn on the printer for the first time or after a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/factory-reset-mk2s-mk2-5s-mk3s_2216">Factory reset (MK2S/MK2.5S/MK3S)</a>. After the initial calibration, the Selftest can be found at <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Selftest.</em></p>
<h3>Selftest procedure checks</h3>
<ol>
<li><strong>Extruder and print fan</strong> functionality</li>
<li><strong>Heatbed</strong> and <strong>hotend</strong> wiring</li>
<li><strong>XYZ motors</strong> wiring and functionality</li>
<li><strong>XY axis</strong> length</li>
<li><strong>XY belts</strong> tension</li>
<li><strong>Loose belt pulley</strong>&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Filament sensor / IR sensor</strong></li>
</ol>
<p>Progress and results of each step are displayed on the LCD screen. In case the process runs into an issue, the LCD screen will display an error message. All errors are described below.</p>
<h3>Selftest error messages</h3>
<h4>Extruder &amp; Print fan test</h4>
<p><em>Front print fan/Left hotend fan - Not spinning:</em></p>
<p>The MK3 Selftest procedure is capable of telling you which of the fans doesn't work. Simply check the one that is diagnosed as <strong>not OK</strong>.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure that both of your fans are connected according to the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/einsy-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2107">Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a>.</li>
<li>Check for any blockage that could prevent either of the fans from spinning.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Go over the wiring and make sure that none of the zip-ties is overtightened, which prevents the fans from spinning.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/noctua-fan.png"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Your fan may be black</em></p>
<h4>Heatbed &amp; Hotend test</h4>
<p><em>Please check/ Not connected - Heater/ Thermistor:<br />
Bed/ Heater - Wiring error:</em></p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure that both thermistors and heater are connected properly according to the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/einsy-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2107">Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a>.</li>
<li>Check your heated bed cables and confirm they are not damaged by an overtightened zip-tie.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Make sure that your heated bed thermistor is firmly attached underneath the&nbsp;<strong>Golden Kapton&nbsp;</strong>tape.</li>
</ol>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/kaptontapedetail.png"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can also see our guide <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/heatbed-not-heating-up-properly_2086">Heatbed not heating up properly</a>.</div>
<h4>XY axis length test</h4>
<p><em>Please check: Axis length - Axis {XYZ}:&nbsp;</em></p>
<ol>
<li>Start the Selftest routine again in&nbsp;<strong>LCD Menu - Calibration - Selftest.</strong>&nbsp;Carefully observe, whether no obstacles are blocking the path on any of the axis.</li>
<li>Pay attention to extruder cable management and the assembly of the printer's axes. <strong>The most common cause of an improper X-axis movement is the cable harness hitting the EINSY/Mini RAMBo cover.</strong></li>
<li>Check that you can move the axis by hand, smoothly, in both directions. If movement is not smooth, try to lubricate the rods as shown in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">Maintenance tips</a>.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Find more information on this error in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/check-axis-length-x-y-z-mk3s_134223">Check Axis Length X/Y/Z (MK3S)</a></div>
<h4>Loose belt pulley test</h4>
<p><em>Loose pulley - {XY}:</em></p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure that both pulleys are properly tightened, on the flat side of the motor-rod. Give the pulley a light tug. If any of them are loose, then the motor's shaft won't be able to move the axis.</li>
<li>Make sure that the belts aren't extremely loose, as they might be going around the pulleys without actually moving either of the axes.</li>
<li>Check that you can move the axis by hand, smoothly, in both directions. If movement is not smooth, try to lubricate the rods as shown in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">Maintenance tips</a>.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/motor-shaft.png"></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h4>Filament sensor test</h4>
<p><em>Filament sensor wiring error</em></p>
<p>Make sure the Filament sensor functioning and is connected, according to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ir-filament-sensor-troubleshooting-mk2-5s-mk3s_112226">our illustrated article</a>.</p>


Selftest failed (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)

<p>The size of the extruder and the length of travel of the Z-axis is coded into the firmware. Therefore, if the assembly of the extruder, or the firmware for your extruder, is not correct, the calibration will most likely fail.</p>
<h3>Extruder assembly</h3>
<p>On top, the E3D heatsink has protrusions from its profile and running around the whole heatsink. These fit into the extruder body printed part, which has two corresponding notches for these (<span style="color: #e67e23;">orange arrows</span>).</p>
<p>The heatsink will fit if placed into both notches, but also when only covering the bottom notch. This will not inhibit the rest of the assembly procedure, but the nozzle will be about 1 cm lower and Z-axis will have a shorter travel-distance than what is expected by the firmware.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 454px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 437px;">
<td style="width: 48.8106%; vertical-align: bottom; height: 437px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3Sextruderbody.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3Sextruderbody-333x400.jpg 333w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3Sextruderbody-500x600.jpg 500w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3Sextruderbody-250x300.jpg 250w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3Sextruderbody-768x922.jpg 768w" alt="" width="350" height="420"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; vertical-align: bottom; height: 437px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6fbd57d8e7c90b8d_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6fbd57d8e7c90b8d_painted-333x400.jpeg 333w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6fbd57d8e7c90b8d_painted-500x600.jpeg 500w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6fbd57d8e7c90b8d_painted-250x300.jpeg 250w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6fbd57d8e7c90b8d_painted-768x922.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/6fbd57d8e7c90b8d_painted-1280x1536.jpeg 1280w" alt="" width="350" height="420"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center; height: 17px;"><em>MK3S/MK2.5S extruder body</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center; height: 17px;"><em>MK3/MK2.5 extruder body</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>How to check</h4>
<p>If you have installed the heatsink too low you will see the heater block protruding down from below the fan shroud. With the correct assembly, only the tip of the nozzle should be visible.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 313px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="text-align: center;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 295px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a6ac88fec088a03c_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a6ac88fec088a03c_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a6ac88fec088a03c_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a6ac88fec088a03c_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a6ac88fec088a03c_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a6ac88fec088a03c_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; height: 295px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0d49599699b3d204_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0d49599699b3d204_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0d49599699b3d204_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0d49599699b3d204_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0d49599699b3d204_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0d49599699b3d204_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; text-align: center; height: 18px;"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><em>Hotend installed <strong>correctly</strong> - Only nozzle visible</em></span></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%; text-align: center; height: 18px;"><span style="color: #e03e2d;"><em>Hotend installed <strong>incorrectly</strong> - Hotend protruding</em></span></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Correct assembly</h4>
<p>The top lip of the heatsink is seated in the top notch of the plastic part (green arrows) and both notches of the plastic part are filled<strong>. If this needs to be corrected,</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">follow this guide for the MK3S</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3-mk2-5_17360">this guide for the MK3</a>, to access the hotend after assembly. <em>Note, that the removal of the PTFE tube shown in the linked guide is not necessary to reseat the hotend.</em></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 101.095%; height: 436px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 419px;">
<td style="width: 48.8232%; height: 419px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3SextruderWhs-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3SextruderWhs-1-333x400.jpg 333w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3SextruderWhs-1-500x600.jpg 500w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3SextruderWhs-1-250x300.jpg 250w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3SextruderWhs-1-768x922.jpg 768w" alt="" width="350" height="420"></td>
<td style="width: 50.0618%; height: 419px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/efc050f68ac7d3d8_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/efc050f68ac7d3d8_painted-333x400.jpeg 333w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/efc050f68ac7d3d8_painted-500x600.jpeg 500w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/efc050f68ac7d3d8_painted-250x300.jpeg 250w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/efc050f68ac7d3d8_painted-768x922.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/efc050f68ac7d3d8_painted-1280x1536.jpeg 1280w" alt="" width="350" height="420"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 48.8232%; height: 17px; text-align: center;">Hotend installed correctly MK3S<em>/MK2.5S</em></td>
<td style="width: 50.0618%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><em>Hotend installed correctly MK3/MK2.5</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Assembly is correct, calibration keeps failing</h3>
<p>As mentioned, the travel distance of each axis is programmed to the firmware. If you load the MK3S<em><strong>/</strong>MK2.5S</em>&nbsp;firmware in the MK3<em>/MK2.5</em> (non S) machine, the calibration will keep on failing, because the length of the Z-axis coded in both firmware differs. Therefore, <strong>it is crucial</strong> to use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227">correct firmware</a> when updating. <em>MK3S and MK3S<strong>+</strong> uses the same firmware.</em></p>
<p>The easiest way to see which version you have is to check the extruder. <strong>The MK3S/<em>MK2.5S &amp; MK3S+</em>&nbsp;has one idler tension screw and the MK3/<em>MK2.5</em>&nbsp;has two (pictures below).&nbsp;</strong></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 311px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 294px;">
<td style="width: 48.8106%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 48.8106%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3S/MK2.5S &amp; MK3S+&nbsp;</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center; height: 17px;"><em>Original Prusa MK3/MK2.5</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>

Failing Z calibration (MK3S/MK2.5S)

<p><strong>From article</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_112351">XYZ Calibration (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a></p>
<p><strong>Initial XYZ Calibration error messages</strong></p>
<p><em>"XYZ calibration failed. Bed calibration point was not found."</em><br />
<strong>= Printer was unable to perfectly pinpoint the initial calibration point.</strong></p>
<p><em>"XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual."</em><br />
<strong>= Calibration point was not found at all.</strong></p>
<p><em>"XYZ calibration failed.</em> <strong><em>Left front</em></strong> <em>calibration point not reachable."<br />
"XYZ calibration failed.</em> <strong><em>Right front</em></strong> <em>calibration point not reachable."<br />
"XYZ calibration failed.</em> <strong><em>Front</em></strong> <em>calibration points not reachable."</em><br />
<strong>= Printer was unable to find Left, Right, or Front calibration point.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p><em>"XYZ calibration</em> <strong><em>compromised.</em></strong> <em>Left front calibration point not reachable."</em></p>
<p><em>"XYZ calibration</em> <strong><em>compromised.</em></strong> <em>Right front calibration point not reachable."</em></p>
<p><em>"XYZ calibration</em> <strong><em>compromised.</em></strong> <em>Front calibration points not reachable."</em></p>
<p><strong>= Your printer was able to finish the initial calibration. However, your Left, Right, or Front calibration points were just in the middle of passing the calibration or failing it. That means you should be able to use your printer. Yet we advise you to check out the following tips on how to improve your XYZ calibration.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Mesh bed leveling error messages</strong></p>
<p><em>"Bed leveling&nbsp;</em><span style="color: #c0504d;" data-hd-color="rgb(192, 80, 77)"><em><strong>failed</strong></em></span><em>. Sensor didn't trigger. Debris on nozzle? Waiting for reset."</em><br />
<em>"Bed leveling&nbsp;</em><span style="color: #c0504d;" data-hd-color="rgb(192, 80, 77)"><em><strong>failed</strong></em></span><em>. Sensor triggered too high. Waiting for reset. Bed leveling failed."</em><br />
<em>"Sensor disconnected or cable broken. Waiting for reset."</em></p>
<p><strong>= Your printer was able to finish the initial calibration. However, there is something wrong with the P.I.N.D.A. position.</strong></p>


XYZ-calibration error-messages (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)

<p>Starting with the firmware version 3.0.12, more detailed information about XYZ calibration results becomes available. This feature can be found in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Support -&gt; XYZ cal. details.</em></p>
<p>The first screen tells you the distance of the “perfect” position of your front 1st, 2nd, and 3rd calibration points. Ideally, all of these are positive and at least 0.5 mm or more. If the margin is between 0 and 0.4 mm, then there is a chance that your calibration will not be successful ("<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/calibration-failed_2033">XYZ calibration failed</a>" error).&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For the Original Prusa MK2/S, in order to improve your results, you should <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/misaligned-pinda-sensor-mk2-s_2016">adjust the threaded rods</a> of the frame so that all of the points can be reached during the calibration process.</div>
<p>To achieve the best results, aim for the smallest possible difference between Left and Right numbers. A difference of up to 0.1mm is considered good.</p>
<p>Pressing the knob will take you to the second screen. This screen identifies how far you are from the perfect perpendicularity. It is measuring the skew of your X/Y axis.</p>
<ul>
<li>Over 0.25° = <strong>Severe skew compensating</strong> for the offset of 1.1 mm on 250 mm length&nbsp;</li>
<li>Between 0.25° and 0.12° =&nbsp;<strong>Slight skew compensating</strong> for the offset of 0.5 mm on 250 mm length&nbsp;</li>
<li>Under 0.12° = <strong>No need to compensate</strong>, X and Y axis are perpendicular. Congratulations!&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<p>It may seem that the compensations are not that significant. However, if we take into consideration the 250 mm X-axis length, 1.1 mm is a large margin. In order to improve your axis perpendicularity, make sure the difference in the front calibration points distance is minimal.</p>
<p>When you get your axes perpendicular or just slightly skewed, nothing needs to be tweaked as the printer will perform with the best accuracy.</p>


XYZ Calibration details

<p>The "Distance between the tip of the nozzle and the bed surface has not been set yet" error message occurs after you successfully finish all of the calibration parts, <strong>except</strong> the First layer calibration.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/distance-between-tip-small.jpg"></p>
<h3>What to do:</h3>
<ol>
<li>If the previous calibration was successfully finished, then just perform the First layer calibration. That can be done through the LCD Menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; First layer cal.</li>
<li>Choose the filament you want to use for this calibration, we strongly suggest using PLA.</li>
<li><strong>Fully finish</strong> the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> at least once and you are good to go.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Small adjustments can be later applied through the Live Z adjust option, even <strong>while printing</strong>. This menu can be entered only when printing the first 3 layers, just press the <strong>Knob -&gt; Live adjust Z</strong> and then you can tune it.</div>


Distance between tip of the nozzle and the bed surface has not been set yet

<p>The error message <strong>Printer has not been calibrated yet</strong> occurs after the assembly of your printer or after the Factory reset of all data. It will remain on the main LCD screen until you successfully calibrate the printer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Screenshot-printer-has-not-been-calibrated.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Screenshot-printer-has-not-been-calibrated-600x192.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Screenshot-printer-has-not-been-calibrated-300x96.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Screenshot-printer-has-not-been-calibrated.jpg 1600w" width="400" height="128"></p>
<h4>Troubleshooting</h4>
<ol>
<li>Make sure you successfully finish the calibration. <strong>If the calibration is interrupted</strong>, with an error message or by the user, <strong>no calibration data is saved</strong>.</li>
<li>You can perform the whole calibration process through our <strong>Wizard</strong>. Simply go to the <strong>LCD Menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Wizard</strong>, or you can go step by step doing the Selftest, XYZ calibration, and First layer calibration, individually.</li>
<li>Once the calibration is finished, this error message will disappear and you will be able to safely use your printer.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you are struggling with the calibration, see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_112351">XYZ Calibration (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk2-s_112396">XYZ Calibration (MK2/S)</a>.</div>


Printer has not been calibrated yet

<p><strong>This is a major release, please, update!</strong>Stats: 409 commits, 108 pull requests, 66 closed issues, cooperation with 14 developers</p>
<ul>
<li>Linear Advance 1.5</li>
<li>Automatic E-jerk conversion</li>
<li>Screen brightness adjustment</li>
<li>Filament sensor recognition</li>
<li>New G-code files sorting</li>
<li>Toggle and Translations</li>
<li>Show current Z offset in reset dialog before first layer calibration</li>
<li>Unknown Z coordinate displayed</li>
<li>Safer moves in Z-axis, if the position is unknown</li>
<li>Heating disabled during MBL</li>
<li>MINTEMP value lowered</li>
<li>MINTEMP error differentiated</li>
<li>Flickering “Statistics” screen fixed</li>
<li>Tone timer re-enabled</li>
<li>Nozzle crash protection improved</li>
<li>Belt test improvements</li>
<li>Decoupling XYZ relative and E relative</li>
</ul>


3.9.0

<ul>
<li>Major improvements to LA15</li>
<li>Support for parts from selected vendors</li>
<li>Ambient temperature check</li>
<li>PC Blend preheat added</li>
<li>Stack corruption fixed</li>
<li>More precise Belt test</li>
<li>Octoprint causing M112 fixed</li>
</ul>


3.9.1

<ul>
<li>XYZ calibration optimization - SuperPINDA compatibility (<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/november2020_update_original_prusa_i3_mk3splus_miniplus_mini_kit_satin_steel_sheet_40870/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">more info</a>)</li>
</ul>


3.9.2

<ul>
<li>Changes related to MK3S+ release</li>
<li>Linear advance 1.5 chapter updated</li>
<li>Dozens of small changes</li>
</ul>


3.15

<ul>
<li>Redesigned XYZ calibration, which is now more precise</li>
</ul>


3.9.3

<ul>
<li>New "Print from SD" menu</li>
<li>"Time Remaining" function improved</li>
<li>Community translations</li>
<li>Faster and quieter XYZ calibration</li>
<li>PVB preheat preset</li>
<li>Satin sheet profiles</li>
<li>G-code "M204 T" implemented</li>
<li>Improved filament troubleshooting</li>
<li>Support for 0.8mm nozzles</li>
<li>Optimizations for print hosts (e.g. Octoprint)</li>
<li>Optimized code size and RAM usage</li>
<li>File listing adjusted for remote printing software</li>
<li>Z offset during M600 reverted</li>
<li>Factory reset menu extended</li>
</ul>


3.10.0

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<ul>
<li>Steel sheets chapters updated with the info about Satin sheets</li>
<li>The separate chapter about Satin sheets added</li>
<li>Chapter Printer unpacking and proper handling updated</li>
<li>Chapter LCD Menu updated according to the latest firmware</li>
<li>Language Settings chapter updated</li>
<li>Dump memory chapter added</li>
<li>Info about 0.8mm nozzle added</li>
<li>Small updated in Materials chapters</li>
</ul>


3.16

<ul>
<li>New debugging functions &amp; crash analysis tools</li>
<li>A rare memory bug debugged and fixed</li>
<li>Long-Press action fixed</li>
<li>Move auto reporting out of the temperature ISR</li>
<li>Uint8_t used consistently for the block buffer's index</li>
<li>Arduino boards definition updated</li>
<li>Build script updated</li>
<li>Algorithm for reading SN in EEPROM improved</li>
<li>Spanish translation fixed</li>
<li>Firmware version parsing removed</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.10.1

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul>
<li>New community translations</li>
<li>Added LCD support for <code>äöüß</code> and <code>μ</code></li>
<li>SN check fixed</li>
<li>Changes to on-screen messages</li>
<li>Known issue (LCD glitches)</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

3.11.0

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

<ul>
<li>Several small changes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

3.18

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0

<ul>
<li><span style="font-weight: 400;">New thermal model protection</span></li>
<li>Nozzle change menu</li>
<li>NylonPA sheet profile added</li>
<li>Arc interpolation features G2/G3</li>
<li>UI improvements and fixes</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

3.12.0


<ul>
<li>Thermal model - important info</li>



<li>Restore correct RPM for fans</li>



<li>Set the calibration state when running M310 A</li>



<li>Max Z-coordinate during Nozzle Change</li>



<li>Message selection fix</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.12.1


<ul>
<li>Thermal model updates</li>



<li>Update on E3D Revo</li>



<li>Self Test message fixed</li>



<li>FLC procedure updated</li>



<li>List of pull requests</li>
</ul>


3.12.2


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>Features by the Prusa community
<ul>
<li>E3D Revo support</li>



<li>Meatpack support</li>



<li>Do not preheat the heatbed on load/unload</li>



<li>Features and translations</li>
</ul>
</li>



<li>Support for G-Code M850</li>



<li>First Layer Calibration - nozzle diameter</li>



<li>PrusaLink improvements</li>



<li>Build environment with cmake</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.13.0


<ul>
<li>XYZ calibration fixed</li>
</ul>


3.13.1


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>Smarter color painting</li>



<li>Improved Color change</li>



<li>Ramping travel moves</li>



<li>SLA material overrides</li>
</ul>


2.7.2


<ul>
<li>Fixed Ghost layer shifts</li>



<li>Improved XYZ calibration</li>
</ul>


3.13.3


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>


2.7.4


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0


<ul>
<li>PrusaLink and Prusa Connect updates</li>



<li>PowerPanic improvements</li>



<li>Mesh Bed Leveling (MBL) improvements</li>



<li>New / Improved G-codes</li>



<li>User Interface updates</li>



<li>Community features</li>



<li>Firmware development changes</li>
</ul>


3.14.0


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa i3 MK3S+