Wanting to print 2 colours on the same base layer

3.13.2-RC1 Firmware for MK2.5 and MK2.5S

Prusa i3 Mk2.5s hot end thermal runaway issues

3.13.1 Firmware for MK2.5 and MK2.5S

3.13.1 Firmware for the MK2.5 and MK2.5S

MK2.5S

Shipping information

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical</strong> resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the XY plane, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">To get the best of both worlds, consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Maximum layer height for your nozzle</strong><br />The layer height should be <strong>below 80%</strong> of the <strong>nozzle diameter</strong> (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with very low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or as a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</div>
<p> </p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, with the exception of the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top part of each model is usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change you make, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well in order to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-300x74.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-600x147.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-768x188.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-800x196.png 800w" alt="" width="709" height="174" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see a little bit of sag of the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that when you’re printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</div>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't really do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">This option was removed in PrusaSlicer 2.6. The new algorithm is much smarter than the previous implementations and it is automatically applied where needed.</div>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, and that is having holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer makes sure it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space for it, an infill pattern is used to fill the void between these inside/outside perimeters. </p>
<p>Enabling <strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate just a single perimeter that works as both inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<p>This feature is automatically disables, if the <strong>Arachne perimeter generator</strong> is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historic reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look very good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances, but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em> Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan. </p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arranged into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<h3>Perimeter generator</h3>
<p>Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.</p>


Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

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The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

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<p dir="ltr">The main purpose of infill is to provide internal support for top layers, which would otherwise have to bridge over empty space. Infill also affects the speed of printing, structural strength, filament consumption, and even the look of the printed object.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3>Fill density</h3>
<p>Most models can be printed with 10-15% infill. If the top of the model closes gradually, it can be printed hollow (0% infill), though we generally do not recommend it. If you need the model to be heavier, want more compression resistance or higher stiffness, you can increase the infill. You'll rarely need infill higher than 30%. Finally, you can print the model with 100% infill and the infill pattern will be forced to rectilinear. Keep in mind that 100% infill can have a negative impact on the look of the printed object.</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />
The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of <strong>perimeters (not infill</strong>). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters. That said, infill does help with compression resistance.</div>
<h3>Fill pattern</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicer offers many infill patterns to choose from - check the dedicated <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130"><strong>Infill pattern documentation page</a></strong>.</p>
<h3>Length of the infill anchor</h3>
<p>The infill is usually <strong>connected to the perimeters</strong> with a so-called anchor, which is a <strong>short line</strong> of another (inner) perimeter that turns into an infill line. This makes the infill sturdier and is required by some materials (namely PETG) to stabilize the extrusion flow at the start of an infill line.</p>
<p>The length of the infill anchor value sets how many millimeters of this anchor will connect the infill and the perimeters. If you set this value to 0, the infill will be printed independently on the perimeters. Set a higher value to print the anchor that will continue as the infill itself.</p>
<p>If expressed as a percentage (15%) it will be calculated over the infill extrusion width.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-600x334.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-800x445.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-300x167.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-768x427.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-1536x854.jpeg 1536w" alt=""></p>
<h3>Maximum length of the infill anchor</h3>
<p>This value sets the maximum length of the infill anchor connecting the infill with perimeters.</p>
<p>Set this parameter to 0 to disable anchoring completely.</p>
<h3>Top fill pattern</h3>
<p>You can pick a custom infill pattern that only affects the top visible layer, not adjacent solid layers below.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Bottom fill pattern</h3>
<p>You can pick a custom infill pattern that only affects the bottom visible layer, not adjacent solid layers above.</p>
<h3>Combine infill every X layers</h3>
<p>Different layer heights will be used for infill and for perimeters in order to speed up the print without sacrificing the print quality.<br />
Example: Combine infill every 3 layers, layer height 0.1 mm, infill will be printed at 0.3 mm layer height.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The maximum layer height is limited by your nozzle diameter. If you try to combine infill every 1+ layers with 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.3 mm layer height, no change will actually happen because you cannot print layers bigger than (about) 0.32mm (80% of nozzle diameter).</div>
<div><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-300x169.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-600x337.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-768x432.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-800x450.png 800w" alt="" width="699" height="393"></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><em>Infill (grey) printed at double the layer height of perimeters (orange)</em></div>
<h3>Only infill where needed</h3>
<p>This option will make infill behave like an internal support structure, only areas that need support will generate an infill pattern below them. If enabled it slows down the G-code generation (due to extra overhang test involved). Furthermore, infill will likely become disconnected from the perimeters in some areas, so use this option with caution.</p>
<div class="note-callout">This option does not take the support <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/support-material_1698#overhang-threshold">overhang threshold</a> setting into account.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-300x195.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-600x391.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-768x500.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-800x521.png 800w" alt="" width="654" height="426"><em>Sphere with Infill only where needed is enabled</em></p>
<h3>Solid Infill every X layers</h3>
<p>This feature allows you to force a solid layer after every given number of layers. This can be useful to increase the strength of the printed part, however other options, such as increasing the number of perimeters or infill percentage are preferred. Another application would be to create separate internal cells in order to increase thermal insulation.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable.</strong></p>
<h3>Fill angle</h3>
<p>Default angle for infill orientation. Cross-hatching will be applied to some infill patterns.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Bridges</strong> will be printed using the best direction PrusaSlicer can detect, so this setting does not affect them.</div>
<h3>Solid infill threshold area</h3>
<p>Force solid infill for regions having a smaller area than the specified threshold.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable.</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-300x92.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-600x184.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-768x236.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-800x246.png 800w" alt=""><em>Solid infill threshold 0 (left), 15 (middle), 100 (right)</em></p>


Infill

<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero.&nbsp;</strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338"></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high.&nbsp;</strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w"></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400"></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet!&nbsp;</strong>For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg"></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg"></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the&nbsp;<strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<p>Plastic parts used on our 3D printers are printed by the same very machines, holding on to the original idea of the <a href="http://reprap.org/">RepRap project</a>. If you want to print replacement parts, upgrades, have your printer in a different color, or make your own modifications it is all available online.</p>
<h3>Downloading printable parts</h3>
<h4>Printables.com</h4>
<p>We have published STL files for every printable part of our printers, as well as printing instructions, to Printable's print depository. Here you can easily browse and view parts by their area of installation using the Printables folders feature.</p>
<p>Check out the <a href="http://www.printables.com/social/16-prusa-research/collections/54487">Printable parts collection on Printables</a> to find the parts you need.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-547x400.jpg 547w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-800x586.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-300x220.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-768x562.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="293"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-547x400.jpg 547w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-800x586.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-300x220.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-768x562.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="293"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Prusa3d.com</h4>
<p>You can find the latest printable parts for all of our 3D printers or printer upgrades at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Prusa i3 Printable parts</a>. Printable parts are divided into two groups:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Complete kits</strong> - which contain a full set of plastic parts for the entire 3D printer. &nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Upgrades</strong> - which contain only the parts for upgrading to the new version of the printer.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<p>Here you can download STL-files for absolutely all plastic parts and <strong>pre-sliced GCODES for all upgrades.</strong></p>
<h3>Settings</h3>
<p>If you decide to generate your G-codes, it is recommended to use:</p>
<ul>
<li>Material: <strong>PETG</strong></li>
<li><strong>0.2 mm layer height QUALITY preset</strong></li>
<li><strong>Infill: 20% GRID</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>The <strong style="color: #4b4c50;">'Fan-shroud'- part,</strong> which directs air from the print-fan to the part, <strong>should be printed in ASA or ABS</strong>, but otherwise with the same settings.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you have printed your own plastic parts, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/postprocessing-of-3d-prints-step-by-step/">check this article</a> for guidance on post-processing.</div>
<h3>Project files (STEP/SCAD)</h3>
<p>We do not provide the actual project-files for our printed parts. Too many different programs being used for that. However, if you are interested in modifying the parts we have made STEP files (in addition to STL files) available on our <a href="http://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">Github</a>, for all parts.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Project files (STEP/SCAD) are only available in the Github branch/tree where they were initially released.</div>
<p>Some parts were designed using OpenSCAD, where SCAD files are the project files you can edit. For that reason, <strong>for all parts designed with OpenSCAD, there are only SCAD files and no STEP-files available.</strong> This also includes metal parts.</p>
<ul>
<li>MK-series: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3</a></li>
<li>MINI: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-MINI/releases">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-MINI/releases</a></li>
<li>SL1: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-SL1">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-SL1</a></li>
</ul>
<p>For the MK-series you simply select the branch for the machine you are after and navigate to the file.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-300x187.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-600x375.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-768x480.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-800x500.png 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch.png" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>The naming of printable parts</h3>
<p>To know the origin of our printable parts, we are using naming which always starts with&nbsp;<strong>an alphabetical letter</strong>&nbsp;and is followed by a&nbsp;<strong>number</strong>:&nbsp;</p>
<ul style="list-style-type: disc;">
<li><strong>C# D#</strong> - MK3S/MK3S+ parts produced in our 3D printing farm, which are sent to our customers with Kits or pre-assembled printers.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>F#</strong> - MINI / MINI+ parts, farm printed.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>M#</strong> - MMU2S parts, farm printed.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>S#</strong> - SL1 / CW1 parts, farm printed.</li>
<li><strong>R#</strong> - Parts that can be found at <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/social/16-prusa-research/collections/54487">Prusa Research profile at PrusaPrinters</a>, <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Prusa3D site</a> or our <a href="http://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">Github</a>. These are the parts you can print yourself.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">
<p>Each letter of the alphabet is only used 9 times. For example, once we reached C9, the next revision was named D1.</p>
</div>


Printable parts for Original Prusa

<div class="warning-callout">This is an&nbsp;<strong>advanced calibration</strong>, recommended only to&nbsp;<strong>experienced users</strong>.</div>
<p>The Extrusion Multiplier allows the fine-tuning of the extrusion flow rate - simply described as&nbsp;<strong>how much filament comes out of the nozzle</strong>. In other words, the&nbsp;<strong>Extrusion Multiplier</strong>&nbsp;setting in PrusaSlicer and the&nbsp;<strong>Flow rate</strong>&nbsp;setting in printer firmware are two ways to adjust the same thing, however, adjusting one of those two settings will not influence the value of the other.</p>
<p><strong>This procedure is not necessary with a new printer coming from the factory</strong>, but rather applies for specific applications and filaments. The ideal value is different for every type of material and every color. It can even differ from spool to spool. Bear this in mind if you change type and brand of filament often or use cheap no-name brands.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Total flow rate = <strong>Flow multiplier</strong> in firmware (M221) x <strong>Extrusion multiplier</strong> in PrusaSlicer. For those interested in diving deeper, PrusaSlicer uses the same <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Flow math as Slic3r</a>.</div>
<h3><strong>How to spot an issue</strong></h3>
<p>This calibration is used to fix two common problems:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Overextrusion</strong> - Too much material is extruded (flow is too high). It causes scarring of bottom layers and unnecessary material buildup on top layers.</li>
<li><strong>Minor under extrusion</strong>&nbsp;- Not enough material is extruded (flow is too low). It causes small gaps that appear between layer lines or perimeters.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-600x282.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-800x376.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-300x141.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-768x361.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-1536x721.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="852" height="400"></p>
<p><strong>Overextrusion</strong> is a common problem with many filament brands. It's especially problematic when you're trying to glue two parts of the model. <strong>If the top layer is over extruded, you'll end up with an uneven surface that will prevent a seamless connection between the two pieces.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>How to do the calibration</strong></h3>
<p>In PrusaSlicer, navigate to <span class="key">Filament Settings</span> and look for Extrusion Multiplier. The default setting (for PLA) is 1, this value represents a percentage, 1 = 100%, 0.95 = 95% etc. Usually, the adjusted values can be between 0.9 and 1.1. To adjust it, simply rewrite the value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 200px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/image-2019-1-15-12-55-6.png" data-hd-height="200px"></p>
<p>In the printer menu, during a print, go to the Tune menu and then choose Flow. Again, the usual values can range between 90 and 110, although that does not mean you can't go above or below that.</p>
<h4>Which method should I use?</h4>
<p>There are two methods you can use to calibrate the Extrusion Multiplier, and we'll cover both of them in this article:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Precise Method</strong>&nbsp; -&nbsp; using precision tools such as calipers or micrometers.</li>
<li><strong>Visual Method&nbsp;</strong>&nbsp;- an easy method based on observing the visual properties of your models.</li>
</ul>
<p>The choice of the method depends entirely on your preferences; in the end, both yield similar results. Even the visual method will enable you to have perfectly fitting parts with smooth &amp; flat top layers.</p>
<h4>Precise Method</h4>
<div class="note-callout">Please note that the following guide is based on <strong>default</strong> PrusaSlicer 0.4 nozzle profiles, with a layer height of 0.1mm - 0.2mm. This means that:<br />
- Nozzle size = 0.4<br />
- Extrusion width =&nbsp;0.45<br />
- Basic materials (PLA, ABS, PETG) Extrusion Multiplier = 1<br />
<strong>If you wish to calibrate the printer with a bigger/smaller nozzle or layer heights above 0.2, then you will need to adjust these values as well.</strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/cube-40-40-40.zip">Precision Method Cube STL</a>.</li>
<li>Slice it using the Vase Mode and your most-often used layer height and print it. You can find Vase mode (Print Settings →&nbsp; Layers and perimeters →&nbsp; Spiral vase).</li>
<li>Make three or more measurements in the middle of each wall and calculate the overall average thickness.</li>
<li>Calculate the extrusion multiplier using the following formula: <strong>Extrusion multiplier = (Extrusion width (0.45) / Average measured wall thickness)</strong>.</li>
<li>Adjust the Extrusion Multiplier in Filament Settings → Filament</li>
<li>Re-print the cube with new settings and go back to step 3 if necessary.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 220px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/micrometer-small-jpg.JPG" height="400" data-hd-height="220px"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that cheap digital calipers may not be accurate enough to make reliable measurements of a single perimeter wall.</div>
<h4>Visual Method</h4>
<p>This method does not require any tools, only your sight. The point is to make sure your top layers are <strong>smooth</strong>, <strong>shiny,</strong> and without <strong>scarring or filament buildup</strong> near the perimeters.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-600x374.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-800x499.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-300x187.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-768x479.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-1536x958.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="641" height="400"></p>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/visual-method-cube.zip">Visual Method Cube.stl</a></li>
<li>Slice it using the default Prusa PLA presets at 0.20mm layer height and print it.</li>
<li>Inspect the top layer of your cube visually and with the tip of the finger.</li>
<li>If the top is under extruded or not smooth, then re-adjust the Extrusion Multiplier accordingly by 1-2%.</li>
<li>Repeat the steps above as long as needed.</li>
</ol>
<p>If there is&nbsp;<strong>too much material</strong>&nbsp;near the perimeters,&nbsp;<strong>decrease</strong>&nbsp;the Extrusion Multiplier value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 390px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/buildu.jpg" data-hd-height="390px" data-hd-align="left"></p>
<p>If there are&nbsp;<strong>visible gaps</strong>&nbsp;between layer lines,&nbsp;<strong>increase</strong> the Extrusion Multiplier value. (Microscopic gaps near the perimeters are OK.)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 430px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/gaps.jpg" data-hd-height="430px" data-hd-align="left"></p>


Extrusion multiplier calibration

Octoprint - Configuration and install

<p>Stringing or oozing, also known as "hairy prints", is the name given for when small strings of filament are left on a printed model. This usually happens when the filament keeps flowing from the nozzle while the extruder is moving to another object. You can see this as a marginal line of filament left between the objects.</p>
<p>This issue is caused by <strong>very high printing temperatures and/or using incorrect retraction settings</strong>. This can be solved by changing a couple of settings in PrusaSlicer and checking your hardware.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-600x383.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-800x511.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-300x192.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-768x490.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-1536x981.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-2048x1308.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="255"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00-800x534.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Stringing from material left on the nozzle</h3>
<p>If you print for a long time from a single type of filament, such as PET-G, the filament can create a thin layer in the nozzle. This can cause stringing as the strands of the filament stick to the surface of the print. Therefore, thoroughly clean the nozzle before printing and make sure that any dirt or remnants of previous filaments are removed from the nozzle.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">We highly recommend using our official (factory default) preset settings in PrusaSlicer. However, if you are printing with your own settings, make sure that you have the retraction settings configured correctly.</div>
<h3>PrusaSlicer settings</h3>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-600x359.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-800x479.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-300x179.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-768x459.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-1536x919.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="700" height="419"></p>
<p>You should start by checking a parameter known as Retraction. What does retraction do? When the extruder has finished printing one section/object of your g-code, the filament is pulled back into the nozzle. Once the extruder moves to the next location the printing process continues – the filament is pushed back out and it starts extruding from the nozzle again. Retraction settings can be found in PrusaSlicer in <em>Printer Settings -&gt; Extruder 1</em>.</p>
<p>Flexible filaments usually need longer retractions, because the material stretches while being pulled back to the nozzle. Flexible materials are a special case and can need a lot of tweaking and tuning.</p>
<p><strong>The retraction settings are:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Retraction length:</strong> Amount that the filament is pulled back when a retraction is triggered. <strong>On the MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+, the retraction length should be a maximum of 2 mm.</strong></li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">Due to the Bowden extruder, the retraction length of the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+ presets are much longer (default 3.2 mm).</div>
<ul>
<li><strong>Lift z:</strong> lifts the extruder during movement. Having this setting lower will improve stringing. Note that disabling this feature may cause the nozzle to hit the printed part.<strong><br /></strong></li>
<li><strong>Retraction Speed:</strong> Extruder motor speed on retraction. A higher value improves stringing, but if it is too high it may skip steps in the motor.</li>
<li><strong>Minimum travel after retraction:</strong> Amount of move that will trigger a retraction (mm). The preset number in PrusaSlicer is 1 mm, which is a low amount. Having this number higher will get lower printing times, but increase oozing and stringing.</li>
<li><strong>Retract on layer change:</strong> Activates retraction when the layer changes to the next one. It is recommended to leave this option on.</li>
<li><strong>Wipe while retracting:</strong> Moves the nozzle (wipe) while the retraction is happening. It is recommended to leave this option on.</li>
<li><strong>Retract amount before wiping:</strong> This option does a quick retract before doing the wiping movement. More suitable for the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Other settings that affect retraction:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Only retract when crossing perimeters:</strong> <em>(Print settings -&gt; Infill -&gt; Advanced):</em> Disables retraction when the travel path does not exceed the upper layer's perimeter. Any oozing that happens will be within the walls and should be invisible.</li>
<li><strong>Avoid crossing perimeters:</strong> <em>(Print settings -&gt; Layers and perimeters -&gt; Quality):</em> Optimize travel moves in order to minimize the crossing of perimeters. This will lower the stringing amount, especially in the MINI/MINI+.</li>
<li><strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sequential-printing_124589">Sequential printing</a>:</strong> <em>(Print settings -&gt; Output options -&gt; Sequential printing):</em> Printing each object individually has a smaller chance of causing stringing between the parts. When using this feature, PrusaSlicer will warn you of any possibility of the extruder colliding with an already printed part, but follow the print closely.</li>
<li><strong>Nozzle temperature:</strong> <em>(Filament settings -&gt; Filament -&gt; Nozzle):</em> Lowering the temperature decreases the occurrence of strings. Try decreasing the nozzle temperature by 5 – 10°C and check whether there’s less stringing.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Filament</h3>
<p>Try using a different spool than the one that is causing the stringing. The filament might have gathered moisture, which will cause a lot of stringing.</p>
<h3>Hotend</h3>
<p>Stringing in the nozzle might be caused by a heat dissipation issue in the nozzle. Try <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heatsink-heaterblock-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_16104">re-applying thermal paste</a> on the threads between the heatbreak and the heatsink.</p>
<p>If you have recently changed any component in the hotend, it is also possible that some individual parts are not in place. Go over the assembly of the hotend and check for any parts that may be different from the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heatsink-heaterblock-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_16104">instructions</a>.</p>
<h3>Enough settings, pass me my <strong>heat-gun!</strong></h3>
<p>If you don’t feel like tweaking any of the settings, well, then there is an alternative. You can get rid of the strings with a heat gun (or often with a lighter – but be very careful). Set your heat-gun to around 200 °C and aim at the strings for one or two seconds. This will melt the strings, and the printed object should remain undamaged. Do not leave the heat source on the printed model for longer than one or two seconds, as this may deform the part.</p>


Stringing and oozing

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3>Skirt</h3>
<p>The skirt is a printed outline of all of the models on the print bed. It's printed before any of the models and its purpose is mainly to <strong>stabilize the flow</strong> of the filament through the nozzle.</p>
<p>The skirt is also useful to <strong>verify the adhesion of the first layer</strong> to the print bed. Since it's printed before the models, you can quickly change the <strong>Live Z adjust</strong> if you see the first layer not sticking properly or being too squished by the nozzle.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-600x316.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-800x421.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-300x158.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-768x404.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-1536x809.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-2048x1078.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="531" height="280"></p>
<h4>Loops (minimum)</h4>
<p>The number of loops of the skirt. If the <strong>Minimal filament extrusion length</strong> parameter is set, the number of loops may be higher than the one configured here.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable</strong> the skirt completely.</p>
<h4>Distance from object</h4>
<p>Distance between the skirt and object(s).</p>
<h4>Skirt height</h4>
<p>The number of skirt layers to be printed.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">One-layer tall skirts can be difficult to remove from the print bed. Prusa profiles typically use a three-layers tall skirt for this reason.</div>
<h4>Draft shield</h4>
<p>If enabled it creates a skirt as tall as the tallest object in the scene. This can be used to protect ABS, ASA, and other materials from warping by creating a micro-climate around the printed part and protecting the print from draft/wind.</p>
<h4>Minimal filament extrusion length</h4>
<p>Forces more skirt loops when necessary to ensure the minimum amount of filament set here is extruded before the skirt is finished. For multi extruder machines, this minimum applies to each extruder.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt-300x261.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt-460x400.jpg 460w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt-768x668.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt-689x600.jpg 689w" alt="" width="795" height="692"></p>
<h3>Brim</h3>
<p>Before you consider applying extra adhesion materials onto the bed, consider using the&nbsp;<strong>B</strong><strong>rim</strong>&nbsp;<strong>option</strong>&nbsp;in PrusaSlicer which increases the surface area of the first layer. You can set the brim size manually in&nbsp;<strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>&nbsp;by going into<strong>&nbsp;Print settings - Skirt and brim - Brim</strong>.&nbsp;</p>
<p>You should consider using the brim option when&nbsp;<strong>printing:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Tall objects with a small base</li>
<li>Multiple small objects at once</li>
</ul>
<h4>Brim type</h4>
<p>You can select to print Outer brim only, Inner brim only or both Outer and inner brim.</p>
<h4>Brim width</h4>
<p>The horizontal width of the brim that will be printed around each object on the first layer. Generally, it is advised to use at least a 3 mm brim to increase the adhesion.</p>
<h4>Brim separation gap</h4>
<p>The offset of brim from the printed object for easier brim removal. The offset is applied after the Elephant foot compensation.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-522x400.jpg 522w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-783x600.jpg 783w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-300x230.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-768x588.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-1536x1176.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="478" height="366"></p>
<h3>Brim for individual objects</h3>
<p>You can turn on brim just for some of the objects and customize brim settings for each object separately. This feature is only available in the <span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong><span class="tooltip" data-tooltip="simple-advanced-and-expert-mode_124819">Advanced</span></strong></span> and <span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong><span class="tooltip" data-tooltip="simple-advanced-and-expert-mode_124819">Expert</span></strong></span> modes.</p>
<p>Right-click on a model and select <strong>Add settings - Skirt and brim</strong>. You can then pick which brim settings you wish to adjust for the selected model. These settings will appear in the right panel and override the global brim settings.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-558x400.jpg 558w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-800x574.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-300x215.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-768x551.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-1536x1101.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-2048x1468.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1679" height="1204"></p>


Skirt and Brim

<div class="warning-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>This calibration is for advanced users only!</strong></div>
<p>Together with the Mesh Bed Leveling, the <strong>Bed Level Correction</strong> is an important feature designed to allow users to compensate for even the slightest imperfections in the first layer. It allows to virtually <strong>raise or lower the heatbed on the Left, Right, Front and Back sides</strong>, essentially enabling you to have a different <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">Live Adjust Z value</a> on each of the four sides of the heatbed. This feature is most beneficial if you frequently need to use the entire area of the heatbed.</p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">Before you start the calibration, make sure there is nothing between the steel sheet and the heatbed.</div>
</div>
<h4>How to use Bed Level Correction</h4>
<p>Starting from <strong>firmware 3.5.2</strong>, the adjustment limit is +/- 100 microns (μm) instead of +/- 50 microns (μm) in the previous versions. Even 20 microns can make a huge difference, so when using this function, <strong>make small</strong> incremental changes. Just like in the Live-Z adjust, negative values lower the nozzle closer to the heatbed.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Before we begin, <strong>make sure you have recently run the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_112351">XYZ calibration</a> and have cleaned the entire surface of your heatbed</strong> with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol.</div>
<ol>
<li>Run a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> to get a good baseline calibration.</li>
<li>Download and slice <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/36706-bed-level-test">this test model</a> for your printer version using the Prusa Slicer's default PLA settings, 0.20 mm layer height.</li>
<li>Print the g-code prepared in the previous step with a PLA filament (ideally light and opaque color). The print is just one layer high and takes up most of the printable surface. You do not have to print the entire file, stop the print as soon as the differences in layer height across the plate are obvious.</li>
<li>Evaluate where the layer is too squished and full of scars and where there are gaps in between the lines. In the photo below, the lines are way too squished in the top-right corner, and the nozzle is too far away in the bottom-left.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2-300x194.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2-600x388.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2-768x496.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/badlevelcorrect4v2-800x517.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>In the example above you want to adjust a minus-value on the left, bringing the nozzle closer and a plus-value on the right, moving the nozzle away. You may also need to adjust the distance front and back, but do a test print after adjusting the left and right side.</strong></p>
<ol start="5">
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Bed level correction</em>. There, you can adjust Left/Right/Front/Rear values (understood from your point of view, as you are looking at the printer's LCD).</li>
<li>Edit the values, we suggest going in steps of +/- 10. These values will be <strong>added to the baseline Live Z</strong> value set in step 1. <strong>Remember, a negative value will decrease the distance between the nozzle making the layer more squished. A positive value will increase the nozzle-bed distance, curing the scars on your first layer.</strong></li>
<li>Repeat steps 3 to 6 until you are satisfied with the result (photo below for inspiration).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2-300x181.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2-600x362.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2-768x464.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/goodlevelcorrection2-800x483.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>For example, let's say your Live adjust Z value is -1.000 and that the layer is too squished in the rear and that you see gaps between the lines on the right side.</p>
<ul>
<li>Rear: you need to enter a positive value (at the end it will be 25 for example) to make the layer less squished</li>
<li>Right: you need to enter a negative value (at the end it will be -10 for example) to make the layer more squished</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">The Bed Level Correction values are reset to 0 every time you start the Calibration Wizard or the XYZ calibration. Once you find your ideal values, <strong>write them down</strong> as a backup.</div>


Bed Level Correction

<p>This is by far the most common 3D printing problem, and probably the first one you may encounter. The first layer is the essential one because it is the base of the printed object. Therefore, if it isn’t perfect, the chance of print failure increases. Many common 3D printing problems stem from a poor first layer. There are a couple of things that can go wrong when printing your first layer, so let’s take a look at what can be done to avoid these problems.</p>
<p>The print surface should be regularly maintained to achieve optimal printing quality and minimize the chance of failed prints. It's an easy procedure, so let's take a look at our tips and recommendations.</p>
<h3>How to prepare your print-surface</h3>
<p>If you don't touch the print surface <strong>with your hands or dirty tools,</strong> then you don't have to clean it before every print. <strong>Clean your tools the same way</strong> you would the bed, and you will be able to start your next print right away.</p>
<h4>Isopropyl alcohol</h4>
<p>To achieve the best adhesion of the print surface, it is vital to keep it clean. <strong>The best option</strong> when printing with ABS, PLA, and many other materials is <strong>90% Isopropyl alcohol,</strong> which can usually be sourced locally at drugstores or hardware stores. <strong>Denatured alcohol is also an option.</strong> We recommend always using 90% IPA. Solutions with lower percentages may contain unsuitable chemicals and oils.</p>
<p><strong>PETG, ABS, ASA, XT, and CPH filaments are an exception</strong> - the adhesion may be too strong, and you can damage your Smooth PEI sheet. We recommend using a separating agent (e.g. a glue stick). For more information on how to print with these materials, check out our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/material-guide_220">Material guides</a>.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Any cleaning agent (e.g. IPA) which is dermal/cosmetic, i.e. for skin or nails, may contain additives like moisturizers and oils which are not suitable.</div>
<h4>Dish soap and water</h4>
<p>If the adhesion seems to decrease over time even when using IPA, you can clean the steel sheet with a few drops of <strong>dish soap and warm water (not hot!)</strong>. This should not be done often, and <strong>do not submerge the sheet completely in hot water</strong>, but it will dissolve some oils and sugars that gather over time and that IPA does not remove. Make sure to use only dish soap and dry the sheet well before using it.</p>
<h4>Acetone</h4>
<p>PEI can lose its adhesive powers after a couple of hundred hours. When you see models coming loose regularly, wipe the surface thoroughly with <strong>acetone</strong> to restore the adhesion. <strong>This should only be used in the smooth PEI sheet and only around once per month.</strong> Do not overuse <strong>acetone.</strong> Extended use makes PEI surface brittle. Also, do not use <strong>acetone</strong> before printing with PETG.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">For the <strong>textured</strong> and the <strong>satin</strong> steel sheets, <strong>do not use acetone at all!</strong> Other chemical solvents, like Nail polish remover or brake-cleaner, can also contain acetone (acetates).</div>
<h4>Glue</h4>
<p>Glue is a great, easy-to-use tool to increase adhesion. It also creates a protective separation layer. No need for glue specially made for 3D printing. You can use a basic (PVA-based) glue stick. <strong>This is supplied with the printer.</strong> From our experience, it is not needed when printing PLA, but may it be advisable when printing:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polyamide-nylon_167188">Polyamide (Nylon)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059">PETG</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812">Polycarbonate (PC)</a></li>
<li>PET-based materials</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809">ASA</a></li>
<li>Other more exotic materials</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-materials_2057">Flexible materials</a></li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">You can easily wipe off PVA glue with <strong>dish soap and water</strong>.</div>
<div>Other types of glue should not be used as a substitute. <strong>Don't put Superglue on your sheet!</strong> When removing prints with a large surface area, you may have to assist the process using a spatula. Be gentle when flexing the sheet and removing the print as the smooth PEI foil can tear.</div>
<h4>ABS juice</h4>
<p><strong>'ABS juice' should only be used on the Smooth PEI sheet,</strong> when printing ABS prints. It is a mixture of Acetone and ABS pellets. ABS scraps, brims, or failed prints can be used too. Be very gentle when applying the juice and <strong>do so only when the bed is cold.</strong> Prints will adhere very strongly.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Ready-made juice can be <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/i3-accessories-mk3s-mk25s-etc/50-abs-juice-granule-only.html">purchased in our e-shop</a>. Unfortunately, most carriers do not allow shipping of any acetone-based products via air transport due to shipping constraints.</div>
<div class="warning-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>For the textured and satin steel sheets, do not use ABS juice at all!</strong></div>
<h4>Resurface it</h4>
<p>It can happen that you will leave some small marks on the print surface with your nozzle or tools. Typically, they will be shinier than the rest of the pad. It does not affect functionality or adhesion. However, if you want to have the same surface look on the whole print bed, you can resurface it.</p>
<p>The easiest way is to take the hard side of a dry kitchen sponge and gently wipe the affected area in a circular motion a few times. Another option is to use fine-grit sandpaper (400-600) and lightly give the sheet a rub. Wipe over with IPA after doing so.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet-300x206.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet-583x400.jpg 583w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet-768x527.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet-800x549.jpg 800w" alt="steelsheet comparison" /></p>
<div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.3742%;"><strong>Smooth PEI sheet</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.3742%;">
<ul>
<li>Isopropyl alcohol 90%+ (IPA) -best degreaser</li>
<li>Warm water + few drops with<br />dish soap (in case IPA doesn’t<br />remove sugar residue on the<br />sheet)</li>
<li>Acetone - once in a while to<br />rejuvenate the sheet</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 33.3742%;">Use glue stick when printing FLEX, PETG, and other PET-based materials, as well as ABS and ASA.<br />IPA + PETG will cause the print to adhere very strongly to the sheet. Removing it could be extremely difficult.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.3742%;"><strong>Textured powder-coated</strong><br /><strong>sheet</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.3742%;">
<ul>
<li>Isopropyl alcohol 90%+ (IPA) -<br />best degreaser</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 33.3742%;"><strong><span style="color: #ba372a;">Never use acetone!</span></strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.3742%;"><strong>Satin powder-coated sheet</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.3742%;">
<ul>
<li>Isopropyl alcohol 90%+ (IPA) -<br />best degreaser</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 33.3742%;"><strong><span style="color: #ba372a;">Never use acetone!</span></strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div>
<p> </p>
</div>
<div class="tip-callout">For more information on the different properties and guidelines of each flexible steel sheet, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheets (guidepost)</a>.</div>
<h3>The nozzle is too close/far from the sheet (MK2/MK2.5/MK3)</h3>
<p>If the nozzle is too close to the printing bed, there won’t be enough room for the plastic to come out of the extruder. By having the nozzle too close to the print surface, you will essentially block its opening, so that no plastic can be extruded. You can easily recognize this issue when the printer does not extrude plastic for the first layer or two. Use the Live Adjust Z function and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> options to tweak the height of the nozzle. You perform the calibration from <em>LCD Menu –&gt; Calibration –&gt; First layer calibration</em>. <strong>For more information on this procedure, please see the dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a>.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="318" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Avoid compensating for a lack of adhesion by setting a lower Live Adjust Z (squishing the first layer)</strong>. <strong>If lowered too much, the nozzle can damage the steel sheet and cause excessive vibrations.</strong> Any damage caused by incorrect Live Adjust Z value is not covered by the warranty.</div>
<h3>Speed and temperature</h3>
<h4>Decrease the printing speed</h4>
<p>If the steps described above didn’t help, then try decreasing the printing speed. The easiest way how to do it is by rotating the knob during the printing process, lowering the percentage. <strong>Counterclockwise = decrease speed</strong>, <strong>Clockwise = increase speed</strong>. We suggest decreasing the speed to about 75% for the first three layers, then returning it to normal.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed-600x195.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed-300x97.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed-768x250.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="195" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Use recommended printing temperatures</h4>
<p>Make sure to use the recommended nozzle and heatbed temperatures. PrusaSlicer will configure them correctly based on the selected material, so you don’t need to adjust the temperatures manually on the printer itself. If you are experimenting with new materials that don’t adhere well, you can try to increase the heatbed temperature by 5-10 °C. This way the plastic will stick a bit better.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat-600x190.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat-800x253.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat-300x95.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat-768x243.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="190" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>A full or partial clog</h3>
<p><strong>The extruder could be clogged</strong>. This can happen either when excessive debris gets stuck inside the nozzle, when hot plastic is kept inside the extruder for too long, or when the thermal cooling for the extruder is not sufficient and the filament begins to soften outside of the desired melt zone. <strong>Please see our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">Clogged nozzle/hotend (MK3S, MK2.5S)</a>.</strong></p>
<h3>Uneven surface</h3>
<p>If your print surface is not flat and the alignment of the mesh does not help, to achieve a flat print surface, a temporary solution is to add a piece of paper under the uneven area of the steel sheet. <strong>A more permanent solution would be to perform the firmware <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet-800x450.jpg 800w" alt="uneven sheet" width="600" /></p>
<h4>MagiBoxes (MK4)</h4>
<p>On the Original Prusa MK4, having the Magiboxes in the wrong orientation can cause an uneven first layer. Make sure that all of them have the full side facing the center of the carriage.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/1740e2ca4c946c7f_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="First layer issues REVIEW" alt="" width="600" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Correctly placed sheet</h4>
<p>Before printing, make sure that you have the print plate properly installed, and that there are no leftovers from the previous print or a piece of loose filament that could affect the sheet position. Also, make sure that the sheet is straight and not bent or damaged.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet-800x450.jpg 800w" alt="correctly placed sheet" width="600" /></p>
<h3>Brim</h3>
<p>Before you consider applying extra adhesion materials onto the bed, consider using the <strong>Brim option</strong> in PrusaSlicer which increases the surface area of the first layer. <strong>See our dedicated article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969#brim">Skirt and Brim</a>.</strong></p>


First layer issues

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

<p></p>
<p>A 'cold pull' is a technique that allows you to clean your printer’s nozzle and hotend from any material that may be stuck or burnt inside. You can also use it to clean your hotend during your usual maintenance routine.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">If you are using Nozzle X, <strong>do not</strong> use the cold-pull method, but only use cleaning filament.</div>
<p>The cold pull should be made if your nozzle is only partially clogged, and some filament is still being extruded. If the nozzle is completely clogged, please check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">Clogged nozzle guide</a>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Our testing has found that <strong>PLA works best for a cold pull,</strong> as other filaments do not retain the tip as PLA does and they will either tear or melt too much. However, there are filaments specifically made for cleaning hotends.</div>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 270 °C.</li>
<li>While waiting for the nozzle to reach the temperature, toggle the <strong>Filament autoload</strong> off in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. autoload.</em></li>
<li>Still being in the <em>Menu</em>, go to <em>Settings</em> and choose <em>Disable steppers</em>. <em>There is no message of the steppers being disabled, but you may hear an electrical hiss disappear when selected. <strong>If you can move the bed or extruder on its axis by hand, they are disabled.</strong></em></li>
<li>Open the Extruder Idler door. <em>Unscrew the screws circled below using a 2.5 mm Allen key. On the MMU2S, unscrew the Bowden PTFE tube that connects the MMU unit with the extruder.</em></li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-600x600.jpg 600w" alt="" width="400" height="399" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-300x216.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-554x400.jpg 554w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-768x554.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-800x577.jpg 800w" alt="mmu" width="400" height="290" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="5">
<li>Once it has reached 270 °C, insert PLA filament manually into the extruder and push it in until it starts pouring out of the nozzle.</li>
<li>Stop heating by pressing <em>Cooldown</em> in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Preheat</em> (scroll all the way down), or by pressing the reset (X) button. Let the nozzle temperature drop to room temperature. <em>To speed up the cooling you can engage the print fan at full speed, from LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Fan speed -&gt; [255].</em></li>
<li>Continue manually pushing the filament down until the temperature is too low for it to melt and come out (around 170 °C for PLA). <em>The nozzle has to be filled for the cold pull to be successful.</em></li>
<li>Pick away extruded material so there is nothing obstructing the pull later on.</li>
<li>After the nozzle cools down to the room temperature, go again to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 85 °C.</li>
<li><strong>As soon as the extruder reaches this temperature</strong>, grab the filament with pliers and pull it slowly but steadily out of the extruder. <em>The filament can break inside. Make sure to pull straight upwards, not sideways. Hold the extruder with your other hand.</em></li>
<li>Don't stop until the filament is completely pulled out from the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Results</h3>
<p>On the tip of the filament that has been pulled out, you may see remnants of the previous material(s) you have been using or some burnt dirt that has settled in the nozzle (left picture). You might want to repeat this procedure several times until the filament comes out clean.</p>
<p>The right picture shows what a clean cold-pulled filament should look like. It is important to have the imprint of the nozzle on it, this way you are sure the nozzle was filled and nothing was left inside. Also, the color is not mixed with the one you have been using previously or have dark marks on it.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-300x214.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-561x400.jpg 561w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-768x548.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-800x571.jpg 800w" alt="dirty cold pull" width="400" height="286" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-300x203.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-591x400.jpg 591w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-768x520.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-800x542.jpg 800w" alt="clean cold pull" width="693" height="469" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>After the procedure</h3>
<p>Secure the idler door by having <strong>the head of the idler screw</strong>, on the left of the extruder, <strong>about flush with the plastic parts, when the filament is not loaded.</strong> Then we recommend running the Z calibration (<em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Calibrate Z</em>) as pushing on the extruder might have thrown it off balance. Also, turn Autoload of filament back on, if you prefer this feature.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">this article</a> to learn about the most common causes leading to filament extrusion problems and how to prevent them from happening.</div>

Cold pull (MK3S/MK2.5S)

<p>The Original Prusa i3 printers use the E3D V6 Hotend. Any nozzle that is compatible with the E3D V6 Hotend can be installed on it. The stock nozzle that accompanies the printer is an E3D V6 0.4 mm brass nozzle, but other types and <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">diameters</a> can be used as well. <strong>The following procedure applies to all nozzles, except the Olsson Ruby.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>To replace the Olsson Ruby nozzle,</strong> follow the instructions on the <a href="https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/66-the-olsson-ruby-instructions-for-use">official 3DVERKSTAN website</a>. Otherwise, you could damage it!</div>
<h3>Why change the nozzle?</h3>
<p>There might be two main reasons for replacing the nozzle:</p>
<ul>
<li>The nozzle is worn out and needs a replacement.</li>
<li>You want to print using a different nozzle type, and/or diameter.</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">Unless you print abrasive materials with a brass nozzle, the stock brass nozzle will last you many hundreds of printing hours. Changing a relatively new nozzle to resolve a clog is not the solution!</div>
<div>The stock 0.4mm Nozzle installed on the Original Prusa i3 printers <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nozzle-e3d-v6-0-4-mm/">can be found in the eshop</a>. We also offer <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nozzle-0-4/">an alternative 0.4mm nozzle</a> compatible with i3 and MINI/+ printers.</div>
<h3>Tools necessary</h3>
<ul>
<li>2.5 mm Allen key (Included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>7 mm spanner/socket or pliers (7 mm spanner/socket not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>17 mm spanner (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>Small plate or aluminium foil (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
</ul>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<p>The following procedure assumes that a firmware version from 3.12.0 or above is installed. In case your printer has a previous firmware version, we recommend <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227">upgrading to the latest version</a>. If you did not flash a newer firmware version, follow the procedure, except for "Step 3 alternative" instead of step 3.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Follow this procedure exactly!</strong> Omitting steps can cause leaking and extrusion issues outlined at the end of this article.</div>
<ol start="1">
<li>Unload the filament, if it is loaded, from <em>LCD Menu - Unload Filament</em>. Optionally, perform a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075">Cold pull (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a>.</li>
<li>Navigate to <em>LCD Menu - Settings - HW Setup - Nozzle Change</em>.
<ol type="a">
<li>The printer will display a message with a link to this guide.</li>
<li><strong>Click the LCD encoder</strong>: the printer will auto-home, and subsequently move the Z axis to the topmost position, and the X axis to the center. In the meantime, the printer will automatically heat the nozzle to <strong>280 °C</strong>. Heating the nozzle is essential for this process.</li>
<li>Once the nozzle is at <strong>280 °C</strong>, the printer screen will display the following message: "<strong>Hotend at 280C! Nozzle changed and tightened to specs?</strong>". Do not click on the LCD encoder for now. </li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>Unscrew the two screws on the print fan and the single screw securing the fan shroud. Remove both parts (picture below).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/85adeda53781f1c8b8e5ad32a6c8d6c6.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+) review" alt="" width="600" height="403" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Step 2 alternative: if you could not follow step 3 due to firmware version up to 3.11.0 being installed, gain better access to the nozzle by moving the extruder (Z-axis) as high as possible: go to <em>LCD Menu - Settings - Move Axis - Move Z</em>. Spin the <strong>Knob</strong> to adjust the height. Once this is done, preheat the nozzle to <strong>280 °C</strong> from <em>LCD Menu - Settings - Temperature - Nozzle</em>. Heating the nozzle is essential for this process.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">CAUTION: Heated parts can cause severe burns!</div>
<ol start="4">
<li>Hold the heater block with a 17 mm spanner (M10) or adjustable wrench.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Be extra careful around the <strong>fragile</strong> hotend heater and thermistor wires. You can break them off or <strong>short-circuit the heater with your spanner!</strong></div>
<ol start="5">
<li>Unscrew the nozzle using the supplied pliers. If you are using the E3D nozzles from our online store, use a 7mm spanner (M4) or 7 mm socket. <strong>Be careful, the nozzle is still hot! Place it out of the way on your non-flammable surface.</strong></li>
<li>Make sure that the printer is still on the screen described in step 3c, and that the set temperature (280 °C) didn't change. Holding the heater block with your spanner, carefully screw the new nozzle in and tighten it gently, but firmly. <strong>Do not use excessive force!</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Our service and assembly teams use a torque wrench rated for 1 - 5 N m and <strong>tighten the nozzle with a force of 2.5 N m</strong> (Newton Meter).</div>
<h3>Final inspection</h3>
<p><strong>There must always be a gap (~0.5 mm)</strong> between the nozzle and the heater block (left picture). The nozzle must be tightened/secured in the heater block, and <strong>locked against the heat break</strong> while heated (right picture). Failing to do so will cause leaks (center picture).</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>It is necessary to redo the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> after replacing the nozzle.</strong> If you installed a nozzle with a diameter other than 0.4 mm (0.25, 0.6, 0.8 mm), please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">Different nozzle types</a>.</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 39.2947%;"><img decoding="async" style="float: left;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 60.7053%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-300x136.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-600x272.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-768x348.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-800x363.png 800w" alt="" width="772" height="350" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find this procedure as <a href="https://youtu.be/txt6sxV6X88">a video on our YouTube channel</a>. Be aware that some steps may differ slightly from the procedure outlined here, and printed parts of the extruder may look a little different than yours.</div>


Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+)

<p>A 3D printer's hotend can get clogged. This article explains the most common causes of this issue, which are usually the same regardless of the printer type or model. We then have a separate article with tips on how to prevent the clog from forming in the first place.</p>
<h3>What does it look like</h3>
<p>The most obvious symptom is that the filament is <strong>not coming out of the nozzle</strong>. However, please note that the hotend can also be clogged only partially. <strong>Partial clogs</strong> usually reveal themselves <strong>mid-print</strong>, even after you were able to load or unload the filament.</p>
<p>Early signs of the nozzle starting to clog are:</p>
<ul>
<li>The filament is not extruded out of the nozzle consistently</li>
<li>Printed lines look much thinner and sometimes not sticking to the build plate.</li>
<li>The extruded filament is curling up and sticks to the nozzle when purged.</li>
</ul>
<p>Another common sign is that you can hear some <strong>clicking</strong> or ticking <strong>sounds from the extruder</strong>. The extruder clicking noise means that the stepper motor has to exert more force than a specific preset threshold and it's jumping back by one or more steps (skipping) to relieve the pressure.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">It is important to know that having a <strong>clogged hotend is not the same thing as having a clogged nozzle</strong>. The clog might be located in the PTFE tube (inserted in the heatsink) or elsewhere, so <strong>changing the nozzle is not a universal solution to this problem</strong>.</div>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 400px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/p-1000825-e.png" data-hd-height="400px" data-hd-align="center"></td>
<td><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 330px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/clo.png" data-hd-height="330px" data-hd-align="center"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>How to fix it</h3>
<p>There are three main methods of dealing with this problem. To choose the right method, see whether or not it is possible to load/ unload the filament. Partial clogs can usually be melted or cold pulled, more complex clogs that prevent even loading of the filament call for the third method described below.</p>
<p>Before you begin with any of these methods, <strong>unload the filament</strong> and remove it from the extruder. To make the work easier, <strong>move the extruder head up 10-15 cm</strong> from the <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Move axis -&gt; Move Z-axis</em>.</p>
<h4>Cold pull</h4>
<p>A cold pull is a good place to start if you experience a clog. If the filament can be loaded and unloaded without any problem, yet it still causes trouble during the print, clean the inside of your hotend using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075">Cold pull (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a> technique.</p>
<h4>Force the clog out</h4>
<p>In case it is not possible to load the filament, try to soften the clog by increasing the nozzle temperature and then force it out. This is similar to the cold pull procedure.</p>
<p><strong>To avoid any complication, toggle the Filament autoload OFF in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. autoload,</em></strong> before proceeding<em>.</em></p>
<ol>
<li>Go to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. Set the nozzle temperature to 260 °C if you have been using PLA or to 280 °C if you have been using PETG or ABS.</li>
<li>After the nozzle reaches the required temperature, wait for 2 minutes - the filament should start pouring/dripping out.</li>
<li>Push the <strong>bundled acupuncture needle</strong> (0,3 mm to 0,35 mm diameter) into the nozzle <strong>from below.</strong> Insert it 1-2 cm deep, to help clear the clog. <strong>Never feed it in from the top and do not load filament while the needle is inserted.</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)">Be careful not to touch the hot nozzle with your hand!</span></span></div>
<ol start="4">
<li>If that did not help, try using a 1.5 mm thick 100 mm long, straight, rigid metal wire: insert it into the hotend to see how far it can go and push on it, trying to force the filament down into the nozzle and then out. You can also use the smallest of the bundled Allen keys. It is not very long though, so remove the filament sensor cover to reach further.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Be very careful when manipulating this wire, we don't want to damage the hobbed gears or the PTFE tube.</div>
<ol start="5">
<li>Load some PLA filament. The new string should push the rest of the stuck material from the nozzle.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Clean the hotend parts</h4>
<p>If you didn't succeed, it is important to determine where exactly is the clog located. As said earlier, a clogged hotend is not the same as a clogged nozzle: the material can be jammed even above it.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you did not succeed to force the clog out, at least you can now estimate where does the clog starts based on how deep did the wire goes.</div>
<p>Open the Extruder Idler door and check if you won't see a piece of the filament sticking out of the PTFE tube.</p>
<ul>
<li>If you have an MK2/S, unscrew <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/Pi51Q431dI24DKDR.jpg">both M3x40 screws</a> with springs, the door should then open by itself.</li>
<li>If you have an MK3 or an MK2.5, unscrew <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/pJ12NOO1UYDu2vej.jpg">both M3x40 screws</a> under the hexagonal window (they also have springs on them).</li>
<li>If you have an MK3S or an MK2.5S, unscrew the single <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/3mQKqKUUYTLfaxL3.jpg">M3x40 screw</a> (also with a spring).</li>
</ul>
<h4><strong>Filament stuck in the PTFE tube</strong></h4>
<p>If the filament is stuck in the white Teflon tube, you need to take the hotend out from the extruder. Use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">this guide</a> to do so (steps 2 - 5). You will be left with the hotend exposed, hanging in front of you. Preheat it via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Nozzle (260 °C if you have been using PLA or to 280 °C if you have been using PETG or ABS)</em> and see if you can remove the filament by pulling it up from the PTFE tube using pliers.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)">Be careful not to touch the hot metal parts!</span></span></div>
<p>Sometimes, it is necessary to remove the PTFE tube, in which case you need to push the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/YQ3xHHYCK3H3JXXa.jpg">black nylon collet</a> down towards the heatsink, in order to release it. While still pushing down on the collet, pull the PTFE tube out.</p>
<p>If the PTFE tube has been permanently damaged by the clog or in the process of removing it, <strong>you can purchase a new one</strong> in our online store (<a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/929-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk25s-mk3s-mmu2s.html">MK3S, MK2.5S</a> or <a>MK2/S, MK3, MK2.5</a>). When you insert the new PTFE tube, make sure again it is properly secured by the collet: you need to pull the collet up about 1 mm while, at the same time, pushing the PTFE tube down. Doing this will ensure there is no play as <strong>the PTFE tube cannot move</strong> inside the hotend. <strong>Failure to secure the PTFE tube can cause clogging.</strong></p>
<h4><strong>Filament stuck inside the nozzle</strong></h4>
<p>If the PTFE tube is empty, some debris might be stuck in the nozzle. Unscrew it from the heater block (check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5s-mk3s-mk3s_2069">this guide</a> to see how to do that). There are two ways to clean it: mechanically or using chemical solvents.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your nozzle has seen a lot of use, and/or is old it might be better to just replace it.</div>
<ul>
<li>To clean the nozzle mechanically, once it is removed from the hotend, heat it up using a heat gun or possibly a hairdryer, and extract the stuck matter with needle-nose pliers or a pair of tweezers.</li>
<li>If you were using PLA or ABS, it is possible to clean the nozzle chemically. ABS dissolves in acetone and PLA in tetrahydrofuran or ethyl acetate. Immerse your nozzle into one of these substances for a couple of hours to overnight and then use the needle-nose pliers or a pair of tweezers to remove the gooey mass.</li>
</ul>
<h3>After resolving the clog</h3>
<h4>Clean the Bondtech gears</h4>
<p>If you have had a clog, they can also have collected residue grinding the filament which will, in turn, reduce their grabbing force on the filament. Make sure you clean this out. Open the idler door and clean out each groove of the gear using a toothpick or the acupuncture needle that came with the printer.</p>
<p>Cover the PTFE tube to avoid any debris falling in. You can use a cotton swab - it will reliably cover the tube without damaging it). After you're done cleaning, give it a good puff of air to clear any remains, while the PTFE tube is still covered.</p>
<h4>Calibration</h4>
<p>If you have changed the nozzle you should redo, at least, the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration</a>, as this may have changed with the new nozzle.</p>
<p>If you have disassembled and reassembled the extruder and/or hotend, we recommend going through the full XYZ calibration, followed by the First Layer Calibration.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_112351">XYZ Calibration (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk2-5-mk2-5s_199651">XYZ Calibration (MK2.5/MK2.5S)</a></li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">To <strong>prevent this problem from happening again,</strong> check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">this article</a> to make sure you're doing everything correctly.</div>


Clogged nozzle/hotend (MK3S, MK2.5S)

Different nozzle types

<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer lets you schedule a filament change at a certain layer. This can be used to print basic multicolored models. The printer automatically pauses the print as soon as it reads the color change in the G-code (M600 command) and prompts the user to proceed with the filament change.</p>
<ol>
<li>A color change can be inserted from the <strong>Preview</strong>&nbsp;window</li>
<li>Drag the&nbsp;<strong>layer slider</strong>&nbsp;on the right to select the target layer</li>
<li>You can either
<ol>
<li><strong>Left-click</strong> on the orange plus icon to add a color change (random preview color)</li>
<li><strong>Right-click</strong> on the orange plus icon and select&nbsp;<strong>Add color change</strong>. A color picker window will appear allowing you to pick the desired color in order to get a more accurate preview</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>Repeat, you add as many color changes as you like</li>
</ol>
<p>You can&nbsp;<strong>remove</strong> a color change by moving the slider to the target layer and left-clicking on the grey cross icon.</p>
<p>You can&nbsp;<strong>edit</strong> the color change preview color by right-clicking anywhere on the colored bar. Except for the first color, which can be edited by clicking on the colored rectangle next to the filament profile name in the top right corner. The preview colors are there really just to visual the final print, they have no effect on the generated G-code.</p>
<div class="note-callout">A preview is displayed instantly so you’ll see exactly how your model will look with color-change.&nbsp;</div>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that you should use <strong>filaments of the same type</strong>, always mix PLA with PLA, PETG with PETG and so on. Mixing materials of different kinds will most likely lead to a failed print as they don't adhere well to each other.</div>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">The color change doesn't work in combination with sequential printing.</div>
</div>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1-300x190.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1-600x381.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1-768x488.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1-800x508.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Color change time estimates</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">When you add one or more color changes, the Platter legend will switch to "Color Print" mode and show time estimates till each change. Alternatively, you can switch to it manually using the select box "View" in the bottom left.</p>
<p dir="ltr">This lets you plan when to check on the printer to proceed with the color change.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-600x339.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-800x452.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-300x170.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-768x434.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-1536x868.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-2048x1157.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="475" height="268"></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Automatic color change</h3>
<p>When PrusaSlicer detects the model looks like a logo or a sign, a notification will offer you to automatically add color changes to the correct heights. This feature was proposed by Richard Horne, thank you for the suggestion! It saves you time and removes the guesswork from inserting the color changes at the right height.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-600x208.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-800x278.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-300x104.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-768x267.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-1536x534.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="613" height="213"></p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Mute beeper when prompting color change</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">If the estimated color change time happens to be during the night or another inconvenient moment, you can switch your printer’s beeper sound to <em>[Silent]</em>, <em>[Mute]</em> or <em>[once]</em> mode. It is found under <em>Settings</em>, on the LCD-menu.</p>
<h3>Use color change to print pictures</h3>
<div class="embed-container" style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%; height: 0; overflow: hidden; max-width: 100%;"><iframe style="position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%;" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/F0IF5PAH7gs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></div>


Color change

<p>Printer firmware update (3.7.2)</p>
<ul>
<li>Protection against multiple power panics (for MK3)</li>
<li>Autonomous fan self-test</li>
<li>Incorrect firmware flashing protection</li>
<li>Min. temp safety trigger</li>
<li>Enforced fan check</li>
<li>Filament runout delay fix</li>
<li>Extruder position after fan error fix</li>
<li>Text format correction on Live adjust Z screen</li>
<li>Display target temperature at PID calibration screen</li>
</ul>
<p>MMU2S Unit firmware update (v1.0.5)</p>
<ul>
<li>This fw version improves mmu2 unit function when used with MK3S and MK2.5S printers with IR sensor. Especially T-code filament loading phase reliability was improved. It is now possible to resume print after MMU load fail detected by printer also by MMU button.</li>
</ul>


3.7.2 (1.0.5)

<ul>
<li>Steel sheet profiles (<a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/firmware-3-8-0-final-for-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">more info about settings</a>)</li>
<li>Nozzle diameter setup</li>
<li>Preliminary checks</li>
<li>Firmware onscreen notification</li>
<li>Revised sound warnings</li>
<li>Heatbed noise at 110 V (60 Hz)</li>
<li>Crash detection fixes</li>
<li>Addition of the ASA material</li>
</ul>


3.8.0

<ul>
<li>Changes regarding firmware version 3.8.0</li>
</ul>


2.61

<ul>
<li>First layer calibration using multiple filament types (PLA, PET, ASA, ABS, HIPS, PP, FLEX)</li>
<li>Repeated First layer calibration settings added</li>
<li>Fan error on Octoprint bug fixed</li>
<li>Fixed bug with the incorrect mode displayed on MK2.5/S after reset</li>
<li>New Live Adjust Z shortcut (Long press of the rotation knob - available only between 0-2 mm of print height)</li>
<li>Move Z shortcut adjustment - not possible during the print)</li>
<li>Translations corrections</li>
<li>Other bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.8.1

<p><strong>This is a major release, please, update!</strong>Stats: 409 commits, 108 pull requests, 66 closed issues, cooperation with 14 developers</p>
<ul>
<li>Linear Advance 1.5</li>
<li>Automatic E-jerk conversion</li>
<li>New G-code files sorting</li>
<li>Show current Z offset in reset dialog before first layer calibration</li>
<li>Unknown Z coordinate displayed</li>
<li>Safer moves in Z-axis, if the position is unknown</li>
<li>Heating disabled during MBL</li>
<li>MINTEMP error differentiated</li>
<li>Flickering “Statistics” screen fixed</li>
<li>Tone timer re-enabled</li>
<li>Belt test improvements</li>
<li>Decoupling XYZ relative and E relative</li>
</ul>


3.9.0

<div class="p-rich_text_section">Reflects changes introduced in FW 3.9.0:</div>
<ul>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">First layer calibration chapter updated</li>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">Linear Advance chapter updated</li>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">Display brightness chapter added</li>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">LCD menu structure updated</li>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">MINTEMP information updated</li>
</ul>


2.62

<ul>
<li>Major improvements to LA15</li>
<li>Support for parts from selected vendors</li>
<li>PC Blend preheat added</li>
<li>Stack corruption fixed</li>
<li>Octoprint causing M112 fixed</li>
</ul>


3.9.1

<ul>
<li>Redesigned XYZ calibration, which is now more precise</li>
<li>Support for MK2.5/MK2.5S with SuperPINDA</li>
</ul>


3.9.3

<ul>
<li>New "Print from SD" menu</li>
<li>"Time Remaining" function improved</li>
<li>Community translations</li>
<li>Faster and quieter XYZ calibration</li>
<li>PVB preheat preset</li>
<li>Satin sheet profiles</li>
<li>G-code "M204 T" implemented</li>
<li>Improved filament troubleshooting</li>
<li>Support for 0.8mm nozzles</li>
<li>Optimizations for print hosts (e.g. Octoprint)</li>
<li>Optimized code size and RAM usage</li>
<li>File listing adjusted for remote printing software</li>
<li>Z offset during M600 reverted</li>
<li>Factory reset menu extended</li>
</ul>


3.10.0

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<ul>
<li>New debugging functions &amp; crash analysis tools</li>
<li>A rare memory bug debugged and fixed</li>
<li>Long-Press action fixed</li>
<li>Move auto reporting out of the temperature ISR</li>
<li>Uint8_t used consistently for the block buffer's index</li>
<li>Arduino boards definition updated</li>
<li>Build script updated</li>
<li>Algorithm for reading SN in EEPROM improved</li>
<li>Spanish translation fixed</li>
<li>Firmware version parsing removed</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.10.1

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul>
<li>New community translations</li>
<li>Added LCD support for `äöüß` and `μ`</li>
<li>SN check fixed</li>
<li>Changes to on-screen messages</li>
<li>Known issue (LCD glitches)</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

3.11.0

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0


<ul>
<li>New thermal model protection</li>



<li>Nozzle change menu</li>



<li>NylonPA sheet profile added</li>



<li>Arc interpolation features G2/G3</li>



<li>UI improvements and fixes</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.12.0


<ul>
<li>Max Z-coordinate during Nozzle Change</li>



<li>Beeping after Factory reset fixed</li>



<li>Message selection fix</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.12.1


<ul>
<li>Self Test message fixed</li>



<li>FLC procedure updated</li>



<li>List of pull requests</li>
</ul>


3.12.2


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>Features by the Prusa community
<ul>
<li>Meatpack support</li>



<li>Do not preheat the heatbed on load/unload</li>



<li>Features and translations</li>
</ul>
</li>



<li>Support for G-Code M850</li>



<li>First Layer Calibration - nozzle diameter</li>



<li>PrusaLink improvements</li>



<li>Build environment with cmake</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.13.0


<ul>
<li>XYZ calibration fixed</li>
</ul>


3.13.1


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa i3 MK2.5S

Downloads

Firmware 3.13.1

Drivers & Apps 2.6.1

Handbook 2.62

How to

Assembly Instructions

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 to MK2.5S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2.5S upgrade

Service Manuals

Packing i3 printer for return - Custom Packing Material

PrusaLink / Prusa Connect with RPi 3/4 USB (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)

Camera setup for PrusaLink / Prusa Connect

Prusa Connect - Telegram notifications setup

Prusa Connect - Discord notifications setup

Prusa Connect - Slack notifications setup

How to replace a heatbreak/heatsink/heaterblock (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)

Sending files from PrusaSlicer to PrusaLink

How to trim PTFE tube - Multi Material

Printing on MK3/S/+ via PrusaLink

How to import profiles to Simplify3D 4.x (Windows & macOS)

How to post-process the printed parts

How to replace a heatbed thermistor (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MK2S)

How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)

How to replace a hotend thermistor (MK2S)

How to trim PTFE tube - Original Prusa printers

Replacing the PEI sheet on the (MK3S/MK3/MK2.5S/MK2.5)

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