Part with holes and bad printed edges

Infill troubles

Z Level Error and THERMAL ANOMALY

The Thermal Beeping!!!

Shipping information

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical</strong> resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the XY plane, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">To get the best of both worlds, consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Maximum layer height for your nozzle</strong><br />The layer height should be <strong>below 80%</strong> of the <strong>nozzle diameter</strong> (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with very low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or as a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</div>
<p> </p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, with the exception of the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top part of each model is usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change you make, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well in order to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-300x74.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-600x147.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-768x188.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-800x196.png 800w" alt="" width="709" height="174" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see a little bit of sag of the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that when you’re printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</div>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't really do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">This option was removed in PrusaSlicer 2.6. The new algorithm is much smarter than the previous implementations and it is automatically applied where needed.</div>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, and that is having holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer makes sure it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space for it, an infill pattern is used to fill the void between these inside/outside perimeters. </p>
<p>Enabling <strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate just a single perimeter that works as both inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<p>This feature is automatically disables, if the <strong>Arachne perimeter generator</strong> is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historic reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look very good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances, but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em> Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan. </p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arranged into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<h3>Perimeter generator</h3>
<p>Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.</p>


Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

Infill patterns

Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1S) is a recommended accessory for the Original Prusa SL1S

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade

Original Prusa Enclosure assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK3.9 upgrade

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Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

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The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

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<p>If you have any questions about 3D printing in general, about your order, shipping, calibration or troubleshooting of your printer, don't hesitate to contact us! We are providing full 24/7 customer support via live chat and e-mail (info@prusa3d.com). Our support is available in <strong>Czech, English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, and Polish languages.</strong></p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Live Chat -&nbsp;</strong>we are available 24/7. It can be found in our <a href="http://shop.prusa3d.com">online store</a> in the bottom right corner. Make sure you are logged in!</div>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Email -</strong> Our contact e-mail is <a href="mailto:info@prusa3d.com">info@prusa3d.com</a>.&nbsp;</div>
<p><strong>We can help you out with:&nbsp;</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Ordering any of our products through our online store.</li>
<li>Pre-sale questions and learning more about our products.</li>
<li>Checking on your pending order.</li>
<li>Assembly and calibration of your newly purchased printer.</li>
<li>Solving printing problems and queries.</li>
</ul>
<h2><strong>Knowledge base</strong></h2>
<p>That is where you are right now! In the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com">Prusa Knowledge Base</a>, you can find answers to the same questions you may ask on chat and email, and much more!</p>
<p>You can either search for topics using the <strong>search field</strong>, and read articles relevant to your <strong>printer model</strong> by selecting it on the main page, or you can browse through our seven <strong>main categories:<br /></strong></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/assembly-manuals_272">Assembly manuals</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/about-your-printer_201">About your printer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/calibration_199">Calibration</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/using-the-printer_202">Using the printer</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/category/troubleshooting_194">Troubleshooting</a></li>
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<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/materials">Extensive Material guides</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Handbook and Assembly manuals</h3>
<p>Assembly and printing documentation is available in Czech, English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, and Polish.</p>
<p>To download the handbook, visit <a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">the Downloads page</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printer-handbooks_125045">its dedicated Knowledgebase article</a>. Assembly manuals you will find <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">right here</a> in this Knowledge Base. These sections are updated regularly, so it's always better to use the online version of the documentation.</p>
<h2><strong>Prusa 3D&nbsp;</strong></h2>
<p><a href="https://prusa3d.com">https://prusa3d.com</a> is our company website, where you can find an overview of everything we do. It also contains the following sections:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">Our Eshop</a>, where you can order printers, filament, and spare parts.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Printable parts</a>, where you can find the latest STL models for our 3D printers.&nbsp;</li>
<li><a href="https://www.printables.com/social/16-prusa-research/collections">Sample objects</a>, where you can find some tested and approved models to print.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">Drivers and manuals</a>, where you can find the latest drivers, manuals, and firmware versions.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2><strong>Printables.com</strong></h2>
<p><a href="Printables.com">Printables.com</a> is our community platform for everything 3D printer-related. We have prepared a unique concept of a community website and we have tried to make it simple and unified all aspects of the Prusa Research community under a single login.&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Here you will find:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong><a href="https://www.printables.com/model">Our model depository and marketplace</a></strong>&nbsp;with over 50 000 prints and thousands of users who want to share their models, printing services, and skills. Here you will find not only STL files but also G-Codes for the Original Prusa printers, which you can print instantly and without effort. We check every uploaded file for potentially harmful commands (crashing nozzle to bed, overheating, etc…).</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/">'Blog'</a></strong> - company blog where our editors publish articles about the development of our printers, latest information about Prusa Research, and informative texts about our 3D printers or 3D printing in general.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://forum.prusa3d.com/">'Forum'</a></strong> - Here you will find the main core of our community. Join discussions and share your experiences with other makers and Original Prusa owners around the world.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://world.prusa3d.com/">'World'</a></strong> - This is a map of all Prusa printers out in the wild. You can place your own marker in the map – either as a general (approximate) location or an exact one – e.g. if you are a business. You can choose from three options: if you want to help out other folks, print on demand, or just hang out.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://www.printables.com/group/discover">'Groups'</a></strong> is a way to coordinate with other makers in your specific area. This concept grew exponentially when the 2020 pandemic hit, and makers had a way to coordinate their efforts in printing PPE for their local hospitals and general practitioners. That is of course only the tip of the iceberg so for more information on Groups, please have a look at our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-coordinate-not-only-producing-of-protective-face-shields-via-prusaprinters-groups_32794/">Blog article on the subject</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you haven’t heard about Pritables before, don’t forget to check out <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/prusaprinters-org-is-now-printables-com-ultimate-database-of-3d-models-for-everyone_66880//">our article</a> and <a href="https://youtu.be/v9CjXtnimFE">Youtube video</a>. <strong>If you haven’t registered yet, I hope you’ll consider it now – after all, it’s the users who keep the community alive.</strong></p>
<h2><strong>Our social media</strong></h2>
<p>Our official social media accounts and channels are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PrusaResearch/">Prusa Research 3D printers</a></li>
<li>Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/Prusa3D">Prusa3D by Josef Prusa</a></li>
<li>Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/josefprusa/">josefprusa</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/prusament/">Prusament</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h2><strong>Forum</strong></h2>
<p>We strongly suggest visiting our official forum at <a href="forum.prusa3d.com">forum.prusa3d.com</a>, where you can find plenty of tips and inspiration, as well as up-to-date information about the Original Prusa printers and upgrades.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">To create an account on our forum, you need to go to the online store first and create an account there. A forum account with the same login credentials will be automatically created. However, any changes made in any of the two profiles won't be reflected in the other one. Please keep that in mind while changing your profile details, such as the password.&nbsp;</div>
<h2>Unofficial support channels</h2>
<p>There are plenty of unofficial places where you can find great tips regarding 3D printing. The community is vast and growing every day, and the atmosphere is usually very friendly and enthusiastic.</p>
<p>You can join one of our groups on Facebook:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/Prusai3users/">Original Josef Prusa i3/MK2/S/3 Owners</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunityresin/">Prusa Community Forum - Official Prusa SL1 Group</a></li>
<li>There are other groups covering a wide range of languages.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">Keep in mind that we are not responsible for any information found outside of our official support channels.</div>


Customer support

<h3>How do I get the kit or assembled printer owner discount?</h3>
<p>As stated on our website: <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com">Prusa3D</a>, if you purchase an assembled MK3S+ printer, we offer a 10% discount on your upcoming five subsequent purchases of an <strong>assembled printer of the same type</strong> and on 30 spools of selected filaments per year <strong>(not applicable to the</strong> <strong>MK4</strong>). If you choose to purchase your printer as a kit, we offer a 5% discount on 30 spools of selected filaments per year. In both cases, the discount is automatically activated in your account as soon as your first kit or printer is shipped.</p>
<h3>Can I have my printer's frame signed by Jo?</h3>
<p>Josef can sign the frame, but please know it can delay the expedition for over a month. He is very busy these days. If it's OK with you, you can ask for the signature in an email or via Live Chat.</p>
<h3>What are the printer dimensions?</h3>
<p>The dimensions are (W×L×H or X×Y×Z):</p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>Mini</strong> printer has 12.6 × 13 × 15 inch / 320 × 330 × 380 mm and 5 kg</li>
<li>Mini print area: 7×7×7 inch / 180 × 180 × 180 mm</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>SL1</strong> printer has 8.7 × 9.45 × 16.3 inch / 220 × 240 × 415 mm and 11 kg</li>
<li>SL1 print area: 4.7 × 2.6 × 5.9 inch / 120 × 68 × 150 mm</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li>An assembled <strong>i3</strong> (MK2/3) printer itself has 16.5 × 16.5 × 15 inches / 420 × 420 × 380 mm and 7 kg</li>
<li>MK3/S print area: 9.8 × 8.2 × 8.2 inches / 250 × 210 × 210 mm</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that the mini and all i3 printers need some more space when in use. Especially in front of and behind them, as the heatbed is moving outside their footprint. Count with 19.7 × 21.5 × 21.5 inches / 500 × 550 × 450 mm (400 × 450 × 450 mm for the Mini), without the spool or MMU.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">If you are building an enclosure, you can add even more space in every direction, for better access and manipulation. For the MMU, add 150 mm / 6 in, in height, and think about <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/spool-placement_112035">where to put the 5 spools</a> (behind the printer or above).</div>
<h3>What is the printing precision/tolerance of the Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the precision tolerance of a well-assembled Original Prusa printer is 0,1 mm on the Z-axis and 0,3 mm on X and Y. It can be as little as 0,05 mm on all axes, after making additional calibrations such as the Extrusion multiplier calibration and Extruder linearity correction.</p>
<p>However, please note that the material is also relevant: it can shrink while cooling down, and low-quality filaments with uneven diameters will cause uneven extrusion. The optimization of the model for 3D printing (overhangs, etc.) is also important. Our printers are tested even for the 0.25 mm nozzle, which is more precise compared to the standard/stock nozzle with a 0.4 mm diameter. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/troubleshooting/dimension-errors">This article</a> studies the accuracy of FDM printing in more detail.</div>
<h3>What tools do I need when working with my Original Prusa?</h3>
<p>All necessary tools (pliers, screwdriver, hex keys, wrenches…) are included in the package. If you are wondering what else you could need, here is a list of some nice-to-have things:</p>
<ul>
<li>3.5'' side-cutter/flush-cutter pliers</li>
<li>White permanent marker</li>
<li>Compressed air</li>
<li>A big bottle of IPA 91% to clean the sheet</li>
<li>Acetone (only with the smooth sheet)</li>
</ul>
<h3>What is the life expectancy of the printer?</h3>
<p>According to our testing, the average maintenance interval of our printers is around 800 print hours. When it needs to be serviced, most frequently, it’s the nozzle that needs to be changed, and then it can continue printing for many hundreds of hours more.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The ideal air temperature is from 20 - 30 °C (68 - 86 °F) and the ideal air humidity is 25 %.</div>
<h3>What is the power consumption of a PRUSA printer?</h3>
<p>The average power consumption that we have measured, at 26 °C (room temperature), is 80 W when printing generic PLA and 120 W when printing generic ABS.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>


FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

<p>Food-safe 3D printing is not as simple as it might seem. Here we outline some of the challenges. We also recommend you to check out <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-make-food-grade-3d-printed-models_40666/">our blog article</a> where we present our research of the process.</p>
<h3>Materials</h3>
<p>PETG, and sometimes PLA, are hailed in the 3D printing community for being chemically neutral and as practically food-safe materials. Your soda plastic bottles, food containers, and salad boxes are made from PET, a close relative of PETG.</p>
<p>The problem, with all 3d-printed objects, in general, is that they are made from layers. The grooves in between those layers are a seedbed for bacteria as they are almost impossible to clean properly, and will hold residue.</p>
<p>Another issue is color-pigment and unknown additives. These might not be as neutral to your body as pure plastic. It is also hard to say exactly how much there is of these substances. Natural/pure PETG-filament without any color, would be your best bet, but it's hard to say exactly what is in it. Some filaments are FDA-approved, but often with an asterisk like "Approved except red, orange, and pink". In <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-make-food-grade-3d-printed-models_40666/">our blog article</a> we map out which of our Prusament filaments you can and can not use.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">There are, however, food-safe certified epoxy coatings that you can apply to your printed model.</div>
<h3>Application</h3>
<p><strong>Waterbottle, no. Cookiecutter, maybe.</strong> There should not be much problem to 3d-print your own custom cookie-cutters, but as the layer-lines will collect food, bacteria will grow, so this will be something you want to throw away after some use.</p>
<p>The same goes for soap and detergent if you think you can just wash it. The layer lines can absorb these chemicals, which later can be released into something you want to consume.</p>
<h3>(M)SLA resin printers have practically no lines. Can't I use this?</h3>
<p>Again, no. There can be uncured resin and other contaminants on and in the print. There are bio-compatible resins out there, but these are highly specialized and very expensive. They also rely on special considerations when curing and in post-processing.</p>
<h3>Nozzle</h3>
<p>The nozzle you use also makes a difference. The standard brass nozzle is <strong>not considered food-safe</strong>, as it wears out. It is a consumable. Where does the worn material go? Into your print. Therefore, a soft brass nozzle just won't do. You would need a stainless-steel or a titanium nozzle if you are even considering printing with food in mind.</p>
<h3>So what can I do?</h3>
<p>There are epoxy resin coating-materials out there that have been deemed suitable. There is also the option of using 3d-prints simply as a mold with suitable materials and manufacturing methods. We have done some research and you can read more about food-safe 3D printing in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-make-food-grade-3d-printed-models_40666/">this blog article</a>.</p>
<h3>Conclusion</h3>
<p>It is theoretically possible, but special preparations and post-processing is required. If you really want to, it is not as simple as getting some PETG, and printing what you want. Do proper research, so you do not put anyone's health or safety at risk!</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>We do not recommend using 3d-prints as food-containers etc!</strong></div>


Food safe FDM printing

<p>One of the best things about getting your very first 3D printer kit is the assembly. Building your first 3D printer may take some time, however, it's <strong>the perfect way</strong> to get to know the machine in detail. Not only that, but it's also a lot of fun to put the whole machine together.</p>
<p>The length of the assembly depends on the type of the printer and generally takes several hours, complicated setups (e.g. MK3S + MMU2S) can day or two. However it is not a race, so take your time, follow the instructions and <strong>enjoy the construction!&nbsp;</strong></p>
<h2>Our manuals&nbsp;</h2>
<ul>
<li>Each <strong>kit</strong> comes with a printed assembly manual (<strong>MMU2S assembly manual is only available online</strong>). If you would like to see the photos in full resolution, you can always visit <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">our online manuals</a>. Choose the language and product you are assembling. Pay attention to your <strong>printer version</strong> (e.g., MK3 assembly differs from the MK3S).</li>
<li>Our manuals are written in&nbsp;<strong>English, Czech, Spanish, Italian, German, French, and Polish.&nbsp;</strong></li>
<li>We try to make our manuals easy to understand so that truly everyone, from children to elderly persons can enjoy our printers. However, if you struggle with any chapter, do not hesitate to contact our support at <a href="mailto:info@prusa3d.com">info@prusa3d.com</a>.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2>Common assembly errors&nbsp;</h2>
<ol>
<li>Do not rush with the assembly as going fast through usually means that some mistakes are made in the process. And it's more time consuming to fix them than doing everything properly right from the start.</li>
<li>Once you see anything labeled in&nbsp;<span data-hd-color="rgb(192, 80, 77)"><strong>RED,</strong></span>&nbsp;always double-check that you followed these instructions correctly. These are usually essential steps in the whole assembly. Not following them might cause future problems, delays, and in the worst-case scenario even damage to the product.<br />
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-600x389.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-800x519.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-300x195.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/asdd-768x498.jpg 768w" width="674" height="437"></li>
</ol>
<h2>How hard can it be?</h2>
<ol>
<li>The complete assembly is quite straightforward if you follow the manual precisely.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Each chapter is labeled with a&nbsp;<strong>level of difficulty.&nbsp;</strong>That should give you an idea of what you can expect.</li>
<li><strong>Don't be afraid! Tens of thousands of users made it so you can make it too!</strong></li>
</ol>


<p>All of our products are covered under warranty. As we are based in Prague, Czech Republic, a member state of the European Union, <strong>European and Czech law apply</strong>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Rest assured that our Technical support is always available to help you out under any circumstances, even if the issue is not covered under warranty. Feel free to contact us at <a href="mailto:info@prusa3d.com">info@prusa3d.com</a>, or via Online chat (right bottom corner in the online store).</div>
<h2>Warranty periods</h2>
<h3>Products purchased as a kit (printers, upgrades, accessories, parts)</h3>
<p>When purchasing detached pieces or a kit, the warranty applies to every part separately. Still, feel free to contact our support if you encounter any issues during or after the assembly.</p>
<p>Warranty periods for the EU region and the rest of the world: </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>2-year warranty </strong>for consumers from the EU, Lichtenstein, Switzerland, Norway, and Iceland</li>
<li><strong>1-year warranty</strong> for enterprises from the EU </li>
<li><strong>1-year warranty</strong> for the rest of the world (any country not mentioned above) </li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-offset-key="256:0" data-slate-fragment="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">On a kit, although individual components are covered by the warranty, it</span> <span data-offset-key="256:1"><strong data-slate-leaf="true">does not</strong></span> <span data-offset-key="256:3"><strong data-slate-leaf="true">include repair service or shipping-cost</strong></span> <span data-offset-key="256:4">for our in-house technicians.</span></div>
<p>This warranty is<strong> voided by:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Any damages caused by improper assembly of the product.</li>
<li>Any damage caused by improper use, maintenance or operation of the printer.</li>
<li>Any damage caused by long-term lack of maintenance.</li>
<li>Using the printer in improper conditions (temperature, dustiness...).</li>
<li>Upgrades or add-ons that are not officially supported.</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">For proper guidelines, always refer to <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/assembly-manuals_272">our assembly manuals</a> and our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printer-handbooks_125045"><strong>3D Printing handbook</a></strong> or simply contact our official support.</div>
<p></p>
<h3><strong>Pre-assembled products </strong></h3>
<p>With the purchase of a fully assembled printer or any accessory, the warranty applies to the assembly, as well. Our support team is ready to assist you with any issues that may appear.</p>
<p>Warranty periods for the EU region and the rest of the world: </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>2-year warranty </strong>for consumers from the EU, Lichtenstein, Switzerland, Norway, and Iceland</li>
<li><strong>1-year warranty</strong> for enterprises from the EU </li>
<li><strong>1-year warranty</strong> for the rest of the world (any country not mentioned above) </li>
</ul>
<p>This warranty is<strong> voided by:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Any damage caused by improper use, maintenance or operation of the printer.</li>
<li>Any damage caused by long-term lack of maintenance.</li>
<li>Using the printer in improper conditions (temperature, dustiness...)</li>
<li>Using upgrades (be it hardware or software) or add-ons that are not officially supported</li>
</ul>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout">The warranty does not cover normal, expected wear and tear caused by using the printer for its intended purpose. If a user error is found during a warranty repair, the parts and return shipping will be charged!</div>
</div>
<h2><strong>How to handle a warranty case </strong></h2>
<p>Any warranty case must be submitted to our official support channels (chat or email). In case the product was bought from a reseller, contact us first so that we can help you diagnose the problem, then turn to your reseller for spare parts if needed.</p>
<p><strong>Documentation needed</strong> for a warranty case:</p>
<ol>
<li>The number of the original invoice containing the product (and the product's serial number).</li>
<li>A brief description of the problem along with the clear evidence of its presence (e.g., photos or videos)</li>
</ol>
<h4>Limited warranty on consumables</h4>
<p>Some parts of our products inevitably "get used up" over time. For these parts, specific conditions apply, unless failure has occurred due to a defect in materials or workmanship.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 187px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 87px; background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 87px;">
<ul>
<li>Special PA Nylon steel sheet</li>
<li>Satin spring steel sheet</li>
<li>Powder-coated spring steel sheet</li>
<li>Smooth PEI covered spring steel sheet</li>
<li>Smooth PEI covered heatbed (MK2S)</li>
<li>Nozzles</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 87px;">The warranty does not apply to wear and tear.</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 50px;">
<ul>
<li>SL1 exposure display</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 50px;">500 hours of printing</td>
</tr>
<tr style="background-color: #ecf0f1;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%;">
<ul>
<li>SL1S SPEED exposure display</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%;">2000 hours of printing</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 50px;">
<ul>
<li>FEP film</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 32.2013%; height: 50px;">10 print jobs</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout">In case we have provided a <strong>free replacement</strong> part, the warranty <strong>does not reset</strong>. In compliance with European and Czech law, the original warranty period still applies.</div>
<div>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">In case you have sent a product back to us for repair, the warranty duration is "paused" during the time it is on the way back to us, in repair, and on its way back to you. In other words, <strong>the warranty is extended by the number of days</strong> that the product is gone for repair.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout">We do not have any agreement with any third-party Extended Warranty provider. If you are using such services, refer to the Terms and Conditions of your contract to see if and how it applies.</div>
</div>
</div>

Warranty

<p>All of our printers come with an instructional Handbook. This is not merely a collection of tips and tricks but <strong>is the instruction manual for your machine.</strong> They cover everything in regard to your printer, from setup, calibration, slicing, printing, and troubleshooting. <strong>All handbooks are available in a range of languages.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/08b0ada8ee134c8e05cf28859786f189.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Printer Handbooks (review)" alt="" width="600" height="599" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>The Handbooks are structured so you will not be thrown into the deep end of 3D printing, but will gradually learn how to best utilize your machine. Early on it even covers a glossary, as this technology brings with it a lot of its own terms and definitions, which are important to know, and progress from there.</p>
<p>This <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/">knowledge platform</a> is an extension of these handbooks. For convenience, you will always be able to find the latest revision of the handbooks from this article.</p>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">Downloads</h2>
<p>Click your machine below to be redirected to the section of your printer. Download the handbook, in the desired language, from the left column.</p>
<h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">FFF printers</span></h3>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk4">Original Prusa MK4</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mini">Original Prusa MINI &amp; MINI+</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/xl">Original Prusa XL</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mmu3">Original Prusa MMU3</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk3s">Original Prusa MK3S &amp; MK3S+</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk2-5s">Original Prusa MK2.5S</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk3">Original Prusa MK3</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk2-5">Original Prusa MK2.5</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk2s">Original Prusa MK2S</a></strong></span></h4>
<h3><span style="text-decoration: underline;">MSLA/SLA printers</span></h3>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/sl1s">Original Prusa SL1S SPEED</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/sl1">Original Prusa SL1</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/cw1s">Original Prusa CW1S</a></strong></span></h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/cw1">Original Prusa CW1</a></strong></span></h4>

Printer Handbooks

<p>Every Original Prusa printer has a unique serial number assigned to it. This is found on a silver sticker on every machine and is also hardcoded to the main controller board. Serial numbers issued before November 2021 start with "<em>CZPX</em>", while after November 2021 we introduced a new format starting with "SN". All serials are registered in our internal database and they allow us to confirm your printer as genuine.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For some printer models, placing the serial sticker on the frame is part of the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/8-electronics-assembly_174100#175963">assembly process</a>!</div>
<div class="note-callout">The best way to reference your printer is the <strong>order number</strong> you received when purchasing the printer. This can be found on the invoice or in <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/account/orders/">your order-history in the eshop</a>.</div>
<h3>Original Prusa MK-series </h3>
<div>A label can be found on the back of the frame above the PSU, or on the rear plate of the printer.</div>
<div> </div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 99.99%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/9aac28c3506b361e6375f78ac5abcde4_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Original Prusa Serial Number REVIEW" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/7bbdbf77e40293215c0a8c48aa58fc6f.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Original Prusa Serial Number" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7906%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK-series until 2022</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.7906%; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK-series from 2023</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Original Prusa MINI &amp; MINI+</h3>
<div>A label is found on the Z-axis extrusion (circled in red), on the right side.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/1ac6991c2990d506_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/1ac6991c2990d506_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/1ac6991c2990d506_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/1ac6991c2990d506_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/1ac6991c2990d506_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w" alt="" width="1600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></div>
<div> </div>
<h3>Original Prusa XL</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL may have one or two silver stickers. If the printer has one sticker, the serial number will be on the bottom left. If the printer has both the silver sticker on the bottom and on the top left, the one you should use is the one on the top.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100.026%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 49.9881%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/37ecaf46e9f477c1f5c173619f1004ae.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Original Prusa Serial Number" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 49.9881%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a9ef93e4bd2e8e2a453e29b02e4cf257.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Original Prusa Serial Number" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 49.9881%; text-align: center;"><em>Top printer serial number</em></td>
<td style="width: 49.9881%; text-align: center;"><em>Bottom printer serial number</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Original Prusa SL1 &amp; SL1S</h3>
<div>A label is found on the back (circled in red), in the bottom left. </div>
<div> </div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b6b660768dd4f994_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b6b660768dd4f994_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b6b660768dd4f994_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b6b660768dd4f994_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b6b660768dd4f994_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></div>
<div> </div>
<h3>Original Prusa Enclosure</h3>
<p>The label can be found on the side of the PSU holder.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/9429b9afb9f83ee803a88081940ac71a.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Original Prusa Serial Number" alt="" width="700" height="467" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Hardcoded serial number</h3>
<div>This requires a special application and commands, dependent on the printer, to extract. Nothing proprietary, but the procedure is rather advanced. If you really need to get the serial number this way, please email <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a>. </div>


Original Prusa Serial Number

<p>Congratulations on your new <strong>assembled Original Prusa</strong> printer. For any first-time users, we have prepared this article and video for you who are just starting out with a Prusa 3D printer.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">This is complementary material to the bundled 3D Printing Handbook! <strong>Before switching the printer on, always carefully read the paper version of the 3D printing handbook,</strong> found in the box with your printer. The latest version of the Handbook is also available on our website in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">Drivers section</a>, in the right-hand column.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe loading="lazy" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gebHvGyk--4" width="690" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>
<h3>Unpacking the printer</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Remove the "shipping helpers" (large foam pads)</strong> - The extruder and bed are secured by specially cut foam pads to secure these components during shipping. Remove them in this order:
<ul>
<li style="list-style-type: none;">
<ol>
<li>Remove the top piece.</li>
<li>Lift the printer out of the bottom piece (you can hold it by the frame).</li>
<li>Pull out the middle piece of foam, securing the extruder.</li>
</ol>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Remove the test print from the Flexible steel sheet.</strong></li>
<li><strong>Get out the Handbook and Gummy bears and get ready!</strong></li>
</ul>
<h3>Familiarize yourself with the accessories</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>USB cable</strong> - For <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227">updating the firmware of the printer</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Spare screws bag</strong> - In case of updates or repairs.</li>
<li><strong>SD card</strong> - For loading G-codes to the printer. Comes pre-loaded with test prints.</li>
<li><strong>IPA wipes</strong> - To <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804#how-to-prepare-your-print-surface">clean the flexible steel sheet</a>.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Acupuncture needle</strong> - Can be helpful when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">resolving a clog</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Glue stick</strong> - Mainly as a protective separation layer for some filaments, like <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059">PETG</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812">Polycarbonate (PC)</a>. Should not be necessary when printing PLA.</li>
<li><strong>Tools</strong>&nbsp;
<ul>
<li style="list-style-type: none;">
<ul>
<li><em>Needle-nose Pliers</em></li>
<li><em>Screwdriver</em></li>
<li><em>Allen keys</em></li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h3>Calibrations</h3>
<p>An assembled printer is already calibrated so that you could start printing right out of the box. However, to account for any bumps the printer might have seen in transit to you, the printer will take you through the Z calibration the first time you start it up. This moves the X-axis to the top, pressing against the top of each Z-axis, to make sure it is the same on both sides.</p>
<p>This should be all the calibration necessary to start printing. However, different types of filament can act in different ways. You therefore should be aware of a couple of things.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>The First Layer Calibration</strong> - Having the initial layer of your print too low or too high can cause issues with adhesion to the build plate or artifact/imperfection in your print. The nozzle can even clog if set too close. See our article on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">how exactly your first layer should look</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Idler screw tension</strong> - The idler screw should generally be set so its head is about flush with the plastic part. However, some filaments, like flexible filaments, require this screw to be very loose. Moreover, if this screw is tightened all the way in, it can cause the motor pulling the filament to overexert itself. For more info see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">Idler screw tension</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Handbook</h3>
<p>All of our printers come with an instructional Handbook. This is not merely a collection of tips and tricks but is the <strong>instruction manual for your machine.</strong> They cover everything in regards to your printer, from setup, calibration, slicing, printing, and troubleshooting. Even if you are not new to 3D printing we advise you to read this thoroughly. All handbooks are <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/#driver-mk3s">available in a wide range of languages</a>.</p>


Unpacking an assembled i3 printer

<p>Do you need to send your printer back for a refund or repair? Unlike when returning a single part or component, when returning an assembled Original Prusa i3 printer (MK2/S, MK2.5/s, MK3/S/+) you must follow some guidelines to prevent any damage during the transport.</p>
<div class="note-callout">In order to send any product back to us, always do so after an agreement with our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a>. Contact us on email <strong>info@prusa3d.com,</strong> or live chat where we are available 24/7.</div>
<h3>Returning for refund</h3>
<p>No matter the reason for returning the printer, <strong>if you are not sending it back for repair, you must include all of the tools and accessories</strong> that came with it. That includes:</p>
<ul>
<li>Flexible magnetic steel sheet</li>
<li>Spool of grey filament and spool holder (even if it has been opened and less than half is used)</li>
<li>SD card, power cable, USB cable</li>
<li>Pliers, spatula, screwdriver, Allen keys, spanner</li>
</ul>
<p>If we have sent you some replacement parts earlier, don't forget to <strong>send us back the original (broken) parts</strong> too.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The price of the damaged or missing items can be subtracted from your refund</div>
<h3>Returning for repair</h3>
<p>When returning the printer just for repair, you do not have to include everything.</p>
<p><strong>You can keep:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Tools (pliers, spatula, screwdriver, Allen key, spanner)</li>
<li>Cables</li>
<li>Spool holder</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>You must include:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Flexible magnetic steel sheet.</strong> <em>If you have more sheets, always <strong>include</strong> <strong>the one that you are using when the problem happens</strong>.</em></li>
<li><strong>1 meter (40 inches) sample of the filament giving you trouble.</strong> <em>This is sufficient to check moisture content and diameter to eliminate these variables.</em></li>
<li><strong>SD card with the G-code and original STL file</strong> that you had trouble printing.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Documentation</h3>
<p>We require some documentation of the refund in the form of the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Pictures of the packing process to have approved by our shipping department.</li>
<li>Prusa Service List: Download the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/others/PrusaServiceList_EN.pdf">Prusa Service List PDF</a> and fill out the form. It can be edited from the browser and should be sent with the photo documentation.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Serial number</h4>
<p>All printers have a serial number to identify them. This must be filled in when completing the Prusa Service List. This silver sticker is either <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/original-prusa-serial-number_134171#original-prusa-mk-series">on the back of the printer's frame</a> or in the box that the Einsy board was sent. If you are missing this sticker and/or the serial, please contact support.</p>
<h3>List of packaging material</h3>
<h4>Cardboard box</h4>
<p>If you bought the printer assembled, please re-use the box in which you have received it. <strong>If it was a kit, please find another suitable box.</strong> The printer's dimensions are 420 × 420 × 380 mm (height). To accommodate for padding material and accessories the box must be a bit larger.</p>
<h4>The box should have a minimum volume of:</h4>
<p><strong>540 x 510 x 475 mm (height) / 21.5 × 20 × 18.5 inches.</strong></p>
<p>Make sure you use a box with thick enough cardboard. For reference, the walls of our boxes are 4 mm (~1/8 inch) thick.</p>
<h4>Zip ties</h4>
<p>You will also need some zip ties (also known as hose ties/cable ties) or similar fasteners. The smaller the length, the more you will need. We are always sending a full pack of zip ties with printer kits and upgrades.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If the zip ties are too short, remember you can always tie one zip tie to another.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0019.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0019-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0019-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0019-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0019-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="391" height="294"></p>
<h4>Packaging material</h4>
<p>Protective padding material is important. Besides the official padding, the best is bubble wrap and crumpled-up paper, like old newspapers or ads. Layer this on top and around each component being packed.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Foam peanuts or finely shredded paper are not suitable padding material!</div>
<p>To secure the nozzle, you will need a small piece of packaging foam of <strong>50 × 100 × 100 mm / 2 × 4 × 4 inches.</strong> For example, you can cut a piece of the white foam that was used in the original box. <em>Even if you purchased the printer as a kit, packaging foam can be found in the box where the motors were stored.</em></p>
<h3>How to pack the printer</h3>
<p><strong>Do not disassemble the kit! Do not try to cram the assembled kit into its original box! If you send us your kit for repair, partially (or fully) disassembled, you will be asked to pay the price difference between the kit and the assembled printer. Moreover, it can double the time needed to settle your claim.</strong></p>
<h4>MMU2S</h4>
<p>If you have a Multi-Material Upgrade, follow the guide linked below to correctly pack it before starting on the printer. Add it to the printer box when instructed to.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/packing-multi-material-upgrade-for-return_177555">Packing Multi Material upgrade for return</a>&nbsp;</strong></p>
<h3>I have the original box and padding material</h3>
<p>If you have the original box and padding then please follow the guide for official packing linked below.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/packing-i3-printer-for-return-original-packing-material_230459">Packing i3 printer for return - Original Packing Material</a></strong></p>
<h3>I will provide my own box and packing material</h3>
<p>If you no longer have the original box and padding material and will provide your own, please follow the guide for the alternative packing method below.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/packing-i3-printer-for-return-custom-packing-material_229855">Packing i3 printer for return - Custom Packing Material</a></strong></p>


Packing i3 printer for return

<p>3D printing is an automated additive manufacturing-process, where a 3D printer creates a physical model based on digital data (a 3D object). All types of 3D printing are based on the same principle: creating objects by adding layers on top of (or below) existing layers. As of this moment, there is no 3D printing technology that would be completely universal and suitable for every purpose. This is why it's important to decide how and for what purpose you are going to use the printer.&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/types-of-printers-and-their-differences_112464#fdm-fff-printers">FFF printers</a>
<ul>
<li>Cartesian printers</li>
<li>CoreXY printers</li>
<li>Delta printers</li>
<li>Polar printers</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/types-of-printers-and-their-differences_112464#sla">SLA (Stereolithography)</a>
<ul>
<li>Masked Stereolithography (MSLA)</li>
<li>Stereolithography (SLA)</li>
<li>Direct/digital Light Processing (DLP)</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/types-of-printers-and-their-differences_112464#sls">SLS (Selective Laser Sintering)</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>FDM/FFF printers</h3>
<p><strong>FDM</strong> is an acronym for <strong>Fused Deposition Modeling</strong> (trademark by Stratasys) and <strong>FFF</strong> stands for <strong>Fused Filament Fabrication</strong> (open source). It encompasses all 3D printers, which heat/melt polymers and push it through a nozzle/extruder/print head onto a platform, where the model is built. The material for printing is provided as filament spools of 1.75 mm or occasionally 2.85 mm in diameter. The differences in the types of printers out there lay in how the extruder and print platform move to create the models.&nbsp;</p>
<h4>Cartesian printers</h4>
<div class="note-callout">The <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/51-original-prusa-i3-mk3s">Original Prusa i3 printers</a> and the <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/994-original-prusa-mini.html">Original Prusa MINI</a> are Cartesian printers.</div>
<p>Cartesian printers are characterized by at least three motors moving the parts of the printer along the axes of the Cartesian coordinate system: Y (back and forth), X (left and right), and Z (up and down). Most personal desktop printers are Cartesian printers due to them being very widespread and low cost</p>
<p>The model to be printed needs to be sliced into layers for the print. The Y- and X-axis will define the coordinates to be printed in one layer, and once the layer is ready the Z-axis will make the nozzle move one layer up, either by moving the print-bed or by moving the extruder. If overhangs are present, supports can be added below them.</p>
<p>The biggest advantage of the Cartesian printers is how common they are. There are a lot of tips, tricks, and solutions for issues online. The parts for the printer can also be found easily.</p>
<p>On the downside, Cartesian printers, if used for faster prints, will have a lower quality of printing due to the weight of the axes. Also, usually, the printer volume is a lot larger than the build volume due to the movement of all of the axes.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-300x165.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-600x330.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-768x423.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Carthesian-printers-800x440.png 800w" alt="" width="667" height="367"></p>
<h4>CoreXY printers</h4>
<p>Like the Cartesian printers, the CoreXY design also has the latitudinal and longitudinal coordinates determined by two motors and timing belts on the Y- and X-axis, and the print height determined by the Z-axis. The difference of the Core XY is that the X and Y movement is dependent on each other, done by a very specific belt design. The print surface, in this case, will be lifted to meet the extruder. Note that not only the movable print surface makes a CoreXY printer. The defining trait for the printer type is the design of the XY-belts and their movement.</p>
<p>Since the X and Y axes are a lot lighter, faster prints will not have the artifacts that may appear on fast prints on Cartesian printers. The design also allows for a lot larger part of its overall volume to be the build-volume, since there is no need for the print surface to move sideways.</p>
<p>The belts used in CoreXY printers are a lot longer, which makes all belt issues bigger than with the Cartesian printers. Their complicated path also makes these issues harder to repair. The frame needs to be very stable and perfectly square, or else the dimensional accuracy will be smaller.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Corexy.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Corexy-300x241.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Corexy-498x400.png 498w" alt="" width="322" height="258"></p>
<h4>Delta printers</h4>
<p>In Delta printers, the print surface stands still, and three motors work together to meet in the hotend and move it with the latitudinal and longitudinal coordinates, as well as the height of it. These motors control three posts, and these posts are connected to the extruder by arms that will move the hotend. The name of the printer style (delta = Δ) comes from the triangular shape which the arms holding the hotend form. This type of printer was designed to make faster prints.</p>
<p>The Delta printer extruder is very light. That combined with the 3 motors controlling it, makes this printer ideal for fast prints. This printer was an early adopter of the 32-bit system due to the complex calculation it takes to make the movements. Some of the attraction of the printer is also how cool it looks while it is working.&nbsp;</p>
<p>The Delta printers all have a relatively small and circular print surface. This limits the build-space significantly. The high speed of the printer makes the prints less precise. Also, it is uncommon to be used as a desktop printer, as any issues that the printer has can be extremely difficult to troubleshoot and fix, not only due to complex working and lack of information but the overall lack and cost of parts. The printer also needs to work with a Bowden extruder to make the extruder light, which can limit the number of filaments that can be used.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-300x194.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-600x388.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-768x496.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Delta-printers-800x517.png 800w" alt="" width="690" height="445"></p>
<h4>Polar printers</h4>
<p>This printer uses the Polar coordinate system, which has the points on a circular grid instead of the square as the Cartesian system. The printing platform not only moves sideways but it also rotates. This allows the extruder to only move up and down, and also for a large build area. This printer has a very light frame.</p>
<p>This technology is still being developed. That makes the printer very expensive, and it makes parts and technical support hard to find when you have problems.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/polar-printer.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/polar-printer-294x300.png 294w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/polar-printer-392x400.png 392w" alt="" width="401" height="409"></p>
<h3>SLA</h3>
<h4>(Stereolithography)</h4>
<p>The basic principle of <em>vat polymerization printing</em> is that a vat containing photosensitive liquid (resin) is cured layer by layer, by a heat source to make the object.</p>
<p>Printed objects are almost perfectly smooth, incredibly detailed and layers are nearly invisible to the human eye, with the minimal layer height going from 25 – 100 microns. The biggest disadvantage of this technology can be a smaller print surface area and also the toxicity of liquid resins. You should try to prevent resins from touching your skin and avoid inhaling resin vapors.</p>
<p>Printed objects are not fit for immediate use after the print job finishes since they tend to be a bit soft and sticky - which is caused by the leftover unsolidified resin on the surface of the object. It is recommended to wash the object in isopropyl alcohol and to cure it further using UV light.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">The <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/accessories/720-original-prusa-curing-and-washing-machine-cw1.html">Curing and Washing Machine (CW1)</a> is an optional accessory for our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/52-original-prusa-sl1">Original Prusa SL1</a>, which can wash, dry, and cure the print quickly and easily.</div>
<h4>Masked Stereolithography (MSLA)</h4>
<p>Each layer's shape is displayed as a semi-transparent mask on an LCD screen, and the exposure is performed employing a high-performance UV LED. UV light can pass only through white pixels on the display. Due to the fixed resolution of the LCD display, the printed objects have a fixed XY resolution. This method also cures a whole layer at a time, meaning it doesn’t matter how many objects there are on the printing platform.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/52-original-prusa-sl1">Original Prusa SL1 3D printer</a> uses this method.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-300x90.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-600x180.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-768x231.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-msla-800x240.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h4>Stereolithography (SLA)</h4>
<p>Exposure is performed by a UV laser ray. The ray is controlled by two mirrors and it “draws” each layer gradually. The time required to solidify a single layer depends on the size of the area which needs to be solidified. Simply put, the more objects there are on the print platform, the longer the print takes.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-300x87.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-600x174.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-768x223.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-sla-800x232.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h4>Direct/digital Light Processing (DLP)</h4>
<p>The whole layer is solidified at once thanks to a digital projector. The areas that receive exposure from the projector are solidified. The advantage of this method is obvious - each layer is solidified in the same amount of time, no matter how many objects there are on the print platform.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-300x91.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-600x183.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-768x234.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/print-dlp-800x244.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3>SLS</h3>
<p><strong>Selective Laser Sintering</strong></p>
<p>Another type of 3D printing technology is SLS and DMLS, which use a process called <em>sintering</em>. Essentially, every time a new layer is printed, a cylinder spreads a thin layer of fine powder across the platform, which is then sintered with a laser into the required shape. When the print is finished, the whole object is covered with the printing powder. Due to how this method works, the printed objects must have holes, through which the excessive powder is poured out. Unsintered material can be reused for the next prints, which means that very little material is wasted. Another advantage is the fact that the layers are nearly invisible. These printers are not massively widespread among the common public. Due to their main use in various industries, the prices are noticeably higher - the cheapest machines start at around 6000 USD.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SLS-printers-650x432-min.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SLS-printers-650x432-min-300x199.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SLS-printers-650x432-min-600x400.jpg 600w" alt="" width="459" height="306"></p>
<p>There are other types of technology and designs out there, like "Jetting" or concrete and metal printers, using various methods. Since those are mostly reserved for industrial applications due to price and patents, they are not included here.&nbsp;</p>


Types of printers and their differences

<p>Pictures and videos are an important part of troubleshooting. When one of our agents is trying to help you with an issue, they often rely on pictures and videos to get a better understanding of the issue at hand. <strong>Photo and video documentation is also a part of our warranty terms.</strong></p>
<p>Therefore, we want to go through some advice and guidelines regarding shooting and sharing photo and video content.</p>
<div class="note-callout">There are security concerns regarding the sharing of files online. We will not download videos compressed into a Zip format, nor download files to our hard drive.</div>
<h3>Guidelines when shooting photos and video</h3>
<h4>The specific machine under troubleshooting</h4>
<p>Example pictures and screenshots from, for instance, our assembly manual, is of no assistance. We are helping you with your machine, so we need to see <strong>your specific machine.</strong> It is not helpful to see other printers, as there are always nuances to your specific case. Example: "Pictures in the third post of this forum thread is exactly like my issue" is unfortunately not sufficient.</p>
<h4>Well lit and in focus</h4>
<p>Make sure the object is well-lit and in focus before sending pictures or videos. On a small handheld screen it is not always obvious when important detail is missing, so zoom in to make sure, Also, use your camera's flash unless it burns out the picture.</p>
<h4>Super Close-up</h4>
<p>We often require general shots of “extruder” or ”frame” and with the resolution now available in modern handhelds there is rarely a need to go in very close, especially if it is well lit. Mostly it will end with you having to take and send more pictures.</p>
<h4>Camera orientation</h4>
<p>It is a common oversight to shoot video holding the phone in portrait orientation. The image chip in your phone’s camera always has its resolution in the same orientation as its screen, so when shooting video in this manner <strong>we lose about two-thirds of the resolution</strong> (illustration below) when it is displayed on a normal 'landscape' monitor. This removes detail important for the support agent. <strong>Please shoot video in Landscape orientation.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/videoresolution-800x450.jpg 800w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>How to share</h3>
<h4>Cloud of your choice</h4>
<p>Both through email and Live Chat there is a 10 Mb data cap. Therefore, we often rely on your cloud services like Dropbox, Imgur, and Youtube to receive the material.</p>
<h4>Google Drive and Youtube</h4>
<p>Many of us use Gmail. With that, you have both access to Google Drive and Youtube. There are many guides out there on using Youtube. We found this clear and to-the-point guide from Wix.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.wix.com/blog/2019/02/how-to-upload-video-youtube-guide/">https://www.wix.com/blog/2019/02/how-to-upload-video-youtube-guide/</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Regarding Google Drive, right-click the file, after uploading, and select "Get shareable link". In the dialog box that will open, make sure the option "Anyone with the link" is selected.</p>
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<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 18.4px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive-300x220.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive-547x400.png 547w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive-768x562.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive-800x586.png 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/gdrive.png 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="293"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 18.4px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anyone-with-the-link.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anyone-with-the-link-600x199.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anyone-with-the-link-300x100.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Anyone-with-the-link.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="133"></td>
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<h4>Imgur</h4>
<p>Imgur is a site where you can upload photos without having an account. Per email and chat pictures are not really a problem, due to their small size, but it can be handy if you have a whole series of pictures. It also has good support for uploading directly from handhelds. wikiHow made a good guide on how to use this.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.wikihow.com/Upload-Images-to-Imgur">https://www.wikihow.com/Upload-Images-to-Imgur</a></li>
</ul>


Photo and video documentation

<p>From both individuals and companies in the market for a 3D printer, our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a> receives a lot of questions regarding our printers and what it takes to get started with 3D printing. We, therefore, made this addition to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/faq-frequently-asked-questions_1932">our FAQ</a>. We hope this guide can both provide some answers and assist in asking the right questions when purchasing a 3D printer. A side-by-side comparison of specs and numbers can not really inform such a decision. A 3D printer is a machine that can make almost anything you need, but the type of printer, material, and settings all depends on that need. </p>
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<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 314px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-wo-spool.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-wo-spool-283x300.jpg 283w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-wo-spool-378x400.jpg 378w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-wo-spool-768x813.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-wo-spool-567x600.jpg 567w" alt="" height="350" /></td>
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 314px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sl1cw1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sl1cw1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sl1cw1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sl1cw1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sl1cw1-600x600.jpg 600w" alt="" height="350" /></td>
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 314px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1-246x300.jpg 246w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1-328x400.jpg 328w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1-768x937.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3sshop-1-492x600.jpg 492w" alt="" height="350" /></td>
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<h4>Resin (MSLA) or plastic (FFF) printer? I hear resin printers have more detail.</h4>
<p>Yes, printers like the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-sl1s-speed-3d-printer-cw1s-bundle/">Original Prusa SL1S</a> do have more detail, but also have a smaller build-area. Resins are hard and tough, but most are brittle when it comes to impact resistance. FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) printers like the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-3d-printer-9/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Original Prusa MK3S+</a> or <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-mini-semi-assembled-3d-printer-4/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Original Prusa MINI+</a> have a wider range of materials available and also a larger build-space. You can also do multi-material printing, using our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5s-mk3s-org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Original Prusa MMU2S</a> (picture below).</p>
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<td style="width: 100%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MMU2print.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MMU2print-300x192.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MMU2print-600x384.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MMU2print-768x491.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MMU2print-800x512.jpg 800w" alt="" width="424" height="271" loading="lazy" /></td>
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<td style="width: 100%; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/85">Original Prusa MMU2S Sample Object</a></td>
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<p>While you will be able to achieve incredible detail with an FFF-machine, (M)SLA printers, as the Original Prusa SL1, are commonly used in dentistry, jewelry, and printing awesome board game miniatures. You will know your needs best, but FFF-printing can be easier to get started with for a beginner.</p>
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<td style="width: 34.215%; text-align: center; height: 247px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1print.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1print-300x254.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SL1print-472x400.png 472w" alt="" /></td>
<td style="width: 32.4516%; text-align: center; height: 247px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jospug.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jospug-300x269.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jospug-446x400.jpg 446w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jospug-668x600.jpg 668w" alt="" /></td>
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<td style="width: 34.215%; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/5375" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Original Prusa SL1 Test Object</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.4516%; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/62" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Original Prusa MK3S Sample object</a></td>
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<h4>Why an Original Prusa printer?</h4>
<p>Our goal is to make 3D printing more accessible and embrace open standards. That means that all of our printers and software <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">are open-source</a>. We are continually working together with the community, listening to their feedback and ideas. Our aim is to deliver an outstanding 3D printer for an affordable price and make this amazing tool available not only to professionals but also to students and hobbyists. Therefore, we provide <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">24/7 Support</a> for any questions regarding our machines and how to get started. In addition, we are developing this extensive <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/">Knowledge Base</a>, to share our technical insights into 3D printing.</p>
<h4>What kind of setup do I need?</h4>
<p>This depends on your application and the number of printers. 1-2 printers can comfortably be in the same room as the operator, in for instance an office/studio setting. When printing PLA and PETG (two of the more common materials) there is minimal odor and noise. With a larger number of printers and/or manufacturing of ABS/ASA parts, it can be recommended to have a separate ventilated room or enclosure to avoid the noise and fumes this can produce. There are also solutions for remote control and monitoring of our 3D printers.</p>
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<td style="width: 40.6802%; height: 376px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enclosure.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enclosure-300x285.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enclosure-420x400.jpg 420w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enclosure-768x731.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enclosure-631x600.jpg 631w" alt="" width="368" height="350" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 59.3198%; height: 376px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/farma2-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/farma2-2-300x215.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/farma2-2-558x400.jpg 558w" alt="" width="370" height="350" loading="lazy" /></td>
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<td style="width: 40.6802%; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">IKEA Lack enclosure mod</a></td>
<td style="width: 59.3198%; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/a-quick-look-to-our-printing-farm_7474/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Our print farm at Prusa HQ.</a></td>
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<p>Our machines come both as pre-assembled or as a kit for self-assembly. The Kit comes with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/assembly-manuals_2273">detailed illustrated assembly-manual</a> and is a great learning experience. The Original Prusa MK3S+ can take about 8-10 hours to fully assemble. The assembled printer just needs to be taken out of its box and after a quick setup, is ready to print.</p>
<h4>What materials can I work with and what should I use?</h4>
<p>Currently, our FFF 3D printers will work with almost any printing-polymer that has a printing temperature below 300 ºC, which includes 98% of the materials out there. The most accessible are <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/pla_2062">PLA</a>, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059">PETG</a>, and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809">ABS/ASA</a>, but there are <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/composite-materials-with-metal-or-wood-particles_166863">filaments infused with wood, copper-dust, steel, and much more.</a> Your choice of material depends on the application of the parts you will be printing. PLA and PETG cover most needs. Our support can help you with this if desired. For a beginner, a good rule of thumb is; PLA for pretty things and PETG for functional things. We have developed an extensive <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">Material guide</a> to assist in finding the correct material and how to print it.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Screenshotn-material-guidescaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Screenshotn-material-guidescaled-600x247.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Screenshotn-material-guidescaled-800x329.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Screenshotn-material-guidescaled-300x123.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Screenshotn-material-guidescaled-768x316.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Screenshotn-material-guidescaled-1536x631.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="800" height="329" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Our machines do not print metal, but the parts printed on our FFF printers can be made into metal through various methods. Moreover, there are robust polymers out there, like <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusament-pc-blend_134211">Prusament PC Blend</a>, that could be a substitute, but if it is mainly metal components you need for your application, perhaps a FFF 3D printer is not what you need.</p>
<p>We also manufacture our own filament, <a href="https://prusament.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Prusament.</a> With its premium-grade materials and thorough testing, we a reaching a manufacturing precision of +-0.02mm, on 1.75mm filament. This makes it probably one of the best filaments in the world these days.</p>
<h4>What is the process from design to a finished print?</h4>
<p>This depends very much on the part, but simple objects like fittings, jigs, and cases for electronics can be quick for an experienced designer to make. Printing time will also depend on the size and material of the part. In most cases, a print will be ready for use within 2-24 hours of printing. There are also <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/where-can-you-get-3d-models_2179">multiple depositories of free 3d models you can search,</a> download, and alter to your specific need.</p>
<h4>How can you guarantee a good print quality?</h4>
<p>Rigorous testing and a large community dedicated to high print quality; We have one of the largest FFF print farms in the world with <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/a-quick-look-to-our-printing-farm/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">around 500 printers running 24/7</a>. We actually also hold the <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/guinness-world-records-1096-original-prusa-3d-printers-running-at-the-same-time/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Guinness world record</a>, for the Most 3D printers operating simultaneously, with <strong>1096 3D printers operating at the same time in one room.</strong> </p>
<p>This experience and our beloved community spread across <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">forums</a> and social media, in multiple languages, keeps us on our toes, and assure we know how our designs work on a large scale. Our printers are also by large manufactured using our own printers, so we too rely on their reliable operation. With all of the plastic parts on the printer being 3D printed, we are able to iterate quickly and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printable-parts-for-original-prusa_1824">provide upgrade-options our users can print themselves.</a></p>
<p>We also develop and update presets and printing profiles for our open-source software, PrusaSlicer. More on that later on.</p>
<h4>Can you send me samples?</h4>
<p>We do have available a <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/sl1s-resin-sample-prints/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Resin sample set available in our shop</a>, printed on the Original Prusa SL1. With it comes a discount voucher of its price, which can be applied to an order for Original Prusa SL1. <strong>For our FFF-printers</strong>, our HQ Maker space <a href="https://prusalab.cz/en/">PrusaLab</a> will be able to help, but you will have to pay for shipping. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/samplecrop.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/samplecrop-300x242.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/samplecrop-496x400.jpg 496w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/samplecrop-768x619.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/samplecrop-744x600.jpg 744w" alt="" width="587" height="473" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>What kind of training/expertise is required?</h4>
<p>There is a lot to learn, but the learning curve is gentle, and anyone can be printing with little effort. We strive to make it as smooth as possible. Our printers come with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/printer-handbooks_125045">detailed instructional handbook</a> and we provide extensive documentation through the platform you are now reading, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/">our blog</a> and our <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLHAxAdvAKJY0niRJZRYMvg">YouTube channel</a>, informing on every aspect of our machines and 3D printing in general. Our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a> team can also help you with any technical questions or issues.</p>
<h4>Does the printer come with any software and can I test it?</h4>
<p>Our slicer software PrusaSlicer is <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer">free and open-source</a> and can be <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/">downloaded here</a>. It is a powerful tool to convert your 3D models into a format the 3D printer can read (G-code). Getting started is as easy as importing your model and exporting the G-code, using our presets. If you need something more specific for your application, PrusaSlicer has <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/faq-prusaslicer_1789">a lot of advanced features</a> like custom supports, hollowing of models, modifier-meshes, and more. You can even do some basic 3D modeling. It is also <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/general-info_1910">fully documented</a>.</p>
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<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Slicer.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Slicer-300x198.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Slicer-600x395.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Slicer-768x506.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Slicer-800x527.jpg 800w" alt="" width="702" height="462" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 100%; text-align: center;">Plater-view of PrusaSlicer</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>However, we do not develop dedicated modeling/CAD software, but we <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/creating-your-own-3d-models_2209">do have some information on it.</a> We are avid users ourselves, after all, but the choice of software is so much down to personal preference and experience level. There is a great amount of 3D programs out there, from free to very expensive. Your choice depends on your needs, but if you are just starting out you should look to something with a large user base or community. Then you will probably find a tutorial for most operations and tasks, or be able to ask the community for help and advice.</p>


FAQ - Extended buyers-guide

<p>If your printer has an issue you cannot solve by troubleshooting remotely with our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a>, it is possible to send the printer to be repaired by one of our technicians.</p>
<h3>Repair within warranty</h3>
<p>If you have a <strong>pre-assembled</strong> printer, the cost of sending the printer for repair is covered by your warranty.</p>
<p>If you have a <strong>kit</strong> version of the printer, only the individual parts are covered by the warranty, not the repair. If you wish to send the printer for repair, the shipping and service will be charged even within the warranty.</p>
<p><strong>You can read more about the warranty claims here: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/warranty_2288">Warranty</a>.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Note that if a user error is found during the warranty repair, the parts and return shipping will be charged!</div>
<h3>Repair out of warranty</h3>
<p>If your printer was purchased as a kit or you have an assembled printer out of warranty, you may wish for a repair at our facility. Start by contacting our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a> with details of the issue.</p>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<p>When a repair service is requested, an email will be sent within a few days with instructions for the return process. A <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/others/PrusaServiceList_EN.pdf">Service list</a> must be filled by the user of the printer with the report of the issue.</p>
<p>When the printer is received it will be evaluated, and an initial diagnostic will be made on the hardware, function of the printer, and the Service list. The cost of repair will be estimated based on what was found in the initial evaluation.</p>
<h3>Price</h3>
<div class="note-callout">Not applicable to pre-assembled printers within warranty.</div>
<p><strong>You will not be charged anything else on top of the estimated cost of the repair.</strong> This estimate may only change with an additional request from your side (modification/upgrade of the printer) and must be approved by both the customer and the service technician.</p>
<p>The total cost of the repair will be:<br />
Shipping both ways + Technician's time + Parts to be changed.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>The shipping cost is based on your address.</strong> If you want to know the price, go to our e-shop and add the pre-assembled version of your printer to the cart along with your address. This will show the shipping one way, and the total shipping to be paid will be twice that amount. If you want us to use a specific carrier or use your own carrier, this must be specified when requesting the repair. When using your own carrier, any damage during shipping will be your responsibility.</li>
<li><strong>The technician's time is charged by the hour.</strong> Once the scope of the repair is known, the technician will provide you with a time estimate including the expected price. This value can be charged in any of the currencies available the <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">e-shop</a> (CZK, USD, EUR, PLN, and GBP).</li>
<li><strong>The parts have our retail prices</strong> and will be listed in the price estimate.</li>
</ul>
<p>A "reserve amount" will be added to the price estimate. This amount is calculated based on the total repair cost. It will cover the technician's time and parts in case of undisclosed issues or in case the printer has any third-party modifications. If nothing is found, this value is not added to the final amount.</p>
<p><strong>The repair will only commence after the costs are accepted.</strong> In case you do not accept the repair costs, the printer will be shipped back as-is. In this case, the shipping fees of the return will be charged. After payment, the printer is shipped back without being repaired.</p>
<h3>Repair</h3>
<p>The printer will be repaired by our service team, and a sequence of prints will be made to test all the printer features. This includes any specific G-codes that you have issues with (if these are added to the SD card and <strong>mentioned in the service list</strong>), plus test prints of the printer's main features.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If you want defect/replaced parts shipped back to you with the repaired printer, be sure to specify this on the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/others/PrusaServiceList_EN.pdf">Service list</a>. However, this can impact the shipping cost.</div>
<p>After the printer is received, <strong>the repair can take up to 30 days (according to EU law)</strong>. However, this is only the worst-case scenario and we're usually able to process the standard repair requests in a shorter time. You can request a time estimate after the initial evaluation.</p>
<p>After the repair, the payment is made. The printer will be shipped back to you, along with the test prints and a final repair protocol detailing what was repaired or changed<em>.</em></p>
<h3>Repair warranty</h3>
<p><strong>The specific part of the printer that is repaired has three months warranty</strong> (repair contract). If the reported issue(s) of the repaired printer is still present upon return, or there are flaws due to poor workmanship or negligence by our service technicians, the printer can be returned for service again free of charge <strong>within these three months.</strong></p>
<p>However, the<strong>&nbsp;Repair Contract warranty is unrelated to the printer's general warranty.</strong> Furthermore, if another/new issue appears, unrelated to the repaired part, it is not covered under this three-month repair warranty. A new estimated cost of the repair will have to be prepared and confirmed.</p>


Factory repair

<p>3D printers have their own vocabulary and words for describing their various parts and functions. If you are doing maintenance or about to seek help online, it is necessary to have the right words to describe your issue or problem. We have put together a list of words with explanations, covering most parts on the printer.</p>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">This glossary covers Original Prusa MK3, MK3S, MK2, MK2S, MK2.5S and MK2.5</h4>
<div class="tip-callout">You can identify all parts of the MK3 and MK3S using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/360-viewer_1877">360 viewer</a>.</div>
<p><strong>Bed, Heatbed, Printbed</strong>&nbsp;- The commonly used term for the printing pad - a heated area of<br />
the 3D printer where 3D objects are printed.</p>
<p><strong>Flexible steel sheet</strong> - Magnetic printing-surface placed on the heatbed. Present on MK2.5/S and MK3/S</p>
<p><strong>Extruder</strong> - The printing head also known as an extruder, is the part of a printer consisting of a<br />
hotend/nozzle, hobbed pulley, idler, a nozzle fan (print-fan), hotend-fan, P.I.N.D.A.-sensor.</p>
<p><strong>Hotend</strong> - This refers to the complex of metal parts found in the extruder.</p>
<p><strong>Heater cartridge</strong> - The heater of the nozzle and heat block.</p>
<p><strong>Thermistor</strong> - Temperature-sensor. Installed on both hotend and heatbed.</p>
<p><strong>Heat block</strong> - The block that contains the Nozzle, thermistor and heater, on the hotend.</p>
<p><strong><span class="tooltip" data-tooltip="p-i-n-d-a-sensor_125447">P.I.N.D.A. sensor</span></strong> . - Induction-sensor for auto-levelling.</p>
<p><strong>Bondtech gear</strong> - This is the filament-pulleys or hobbed-pulleys on all Original Prusa MK3/S, MK2.5/S.</p>
<p><strong>Filament</strong> - The term for plastic provided on a spool. It’s used throughout this handbook as<br />
well as in the LCD menu on the printer.</p>
<p><strong>FFF/FDM</strong> - Stand for Fused Filament Fabrication and Fused Deposition Manufacturing and is the general term for this method of 3D printing.</p>
<p><strong>1.75 (mm)</strong> - 3D printers use two different diameters (thickness) of filament: 2.85 mm (commonly<br />
called as 3 mm) and 1.75 mm. Worldwide, the 1.75mm version is used more, although there<br />
is no difference in printing quality. All of our FFF-printers are equipped for 1.75mm filament.</p>


Glossary i3-Series

<p>If the printer is being used in an area where the power grid has issues constantly, you might wish to install a <em>UPS</em> (Uninterruptible Power Supply) with the printer. UPS can compensate for power surges, voltage fluctuations, and temporary power loss.</p>
<p>Some considerations need to be made when purchasing the UPS.</p>
<h3>Power panic <em>(selected models only)</em></h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MK3S+ printers are equipped with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/power-panic_2092">Power Panic</a> feature, which recovers the print when the energy is back after a power outage. If power outages are constant, make sure to test the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/testing-safety-features-mk3-mk3s_2079#power-panic">Power panic</a>.</p>
<p>The power panic will work over multiple power outages, even if the printer is not re-started.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The power panic feature is only available in the Original Prusa MK3/S/+ printers.</div>
<h3>Choosing a UPS for your printer</h3>
<p>If using a UPS is necessary, it is recommended to use a UPS that uses Line interactive technology. A Standby UPS will cause the printer to restart due to the higher triggering time.</p>
<p>A UPS is chosen based on the apparent power (VA) needed for the system. It is not recommended to use UPS smaller than 1000 VA for the printer.</p>
<p>Note that a UPS will not run your printer for a long amount of time. If a power outage lasts a long time, it is recommended to safely turn off the printer and start the print again after the power is back. For the printers with no Power Panic, the print will have to be started from the beginning.</p>
<h3>How long will the UPS power my printer?</h3>
<p>We have tested each printer using a Line interactive 1500 VA UPS. See below the information from each printer.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 206.4px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;"> </th>
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;">MK3S+</th>
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;">MINI+</th>
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;">SL1</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;">Material printed</th>
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;">PLA</th>
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;">PLA</th>
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;">Tough resin</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 84.8px;">
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 84.8px;">Power consumption</th>
<td style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 84.8px;">First layer: 50~85 W</p>
<p>Rest of print: 66~150 W</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 84.8px;">
<p>First layer: 40~50 W</p>
<p>Rest of print: 55~77 W</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 84.8px;">
<p>25 W while stirring</p>
<p>60 W while exposing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 84.8px;">
<th style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 84.8px;">Running time</th>
<td style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 84.8px;">
<p>Estimated: 75 min</p>
<p>Real: 35 min</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 84.8px;">
<p>Estimated: 122 min</p>
<p>Real: 72 min</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 23.8693%; text-align: center; height: 84.8px;">
<p>Estimated: 94 min</p>
<p>Real: 75 min</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


UPS backup for your printer

<p>Prusameters is our unique reward system on <a href="https://www.printables.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Printables.com</a>.</p>
<p>You can collect Prusameters for various actions and achievements. Prusameters then can be exchanged for a real spool of Prusament filament and various other physical rewards.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>The process is as follows</strong>: Collect enough Prusameters =&gt; Choose a reward =&gt; Wait for the approval and sending of the voucher =&gt; Redeem the voucher in the e-shop</div>
<h4>Prusameters and physical rewards</h4>
<p>Every user gets an empty virtual spool of Prusament, which is displayed in the top right corner next to your avatar on Printables.com. By performing various activities, you can fill up the spool with special points called Prusameters.</p>
<p>When you upload a new model, the system starts tracking its performance (downloads and likes) over a 30-day period. There are up to four milestones you can hit during this period. For each consecutive milestone, you’ll get a higher amount of Prusameters. Once the 30-day period ends, the internal counters are reset but the earned Prusameters remain in your account. </p>
<p>There are four milestones you can hit with your models <strong>repeatedly</strong> every 30 days:</p>
<p>10 Prusameters for 30 downloads and 3 likes of your model<br />50 Prusameters for 100 downloads and 10 likes of your model<br />100 Prusameters for 200 downloads and 15 likes of your model<br />200 Prusameters for 400 downloads and 20 likes of your model</p>
<p>You can also get <strong>non-recurring</strong> rewards for these actions:</p>
<p>20 Prusameters for completed profile - avatar, bio, location, languages<br />10 Prusameters to publish a model. Up to 10 new models in total.<br />5 Prusameters to create a collection. Up to 3 non-empty collections.<br />From 1 to 10 Prusameters to upload a make. Up to 100 Prusameters per calendar month.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">We appreciate it if you add a quality rating and upload makes regularly. A make of a model that already has many makes is rewarded with fewer Prusameters. You are not rewarded for the make of your own model, and for the second and subsequent makes of the same model.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Prusameters.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="How do Prusameters on Printables work?" alt="" width="600" height="401" /></p>
<p>Your virtual spool will become visually full at <strong>350 Prusameters</strong>, however, there’s no limit on how many Prusameters you can earn in total. The number we’ve picked is not accidental – 350 meters of filament is exactly what you can find on a real spool of Prusament. So, it only makes sense that 350 Prusameters is what you need to get a voucher for a 100% discount on a real spool of Prusament PLA, PETG, or ASA.</p>
<p>The vouchers are being approved manually to prevent abuse of the reward system. It can therefore take up to 2 weeks before they are approved and sent to you. Only one voucher per order can be applied.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that once you exchange Prusameters for a voucher, that voucher is bound to the selected rewards and cannot be changed to a different type of reward. It also cannot be changed back to Prusameters.</div>
<p>You can find the current list of available rewards on the <a href="https://www.printables.com/prusameter/rewards">Printables Rewards page</a>. When you choose the reward you want, you’ll receive a voucher for our e-shop that will get you a 100% discount on the selected item.</p>
<h4>Example of Prusameter reward calculation</h4>
<p>Let’s say you upload a new model and it reaches 300 downloads and 30 likes during one of the 30-day periods. This grants you a total of 160 Prusameters:</p>
<p>10 points for the first milestone (30 downloads and 3 likes)<br />50 points for the second milestone (100 downloads and 10 likes)<br />100 points for the third milestone (200 downloads and 15 likes)</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Tips to avoid voucher request rejection:</strong></p>
<p>1) Upload only models that you designed or remixed<br />2) Upload quality photos of your own makes<br />3) The model in the make photo must match the 3D model<br />4) Don't upload an excessive amount of makes of miniature few-gram models<br />5) Do not upload the photo to multiple different models</p>
</div>
<p>The Prusameters reward system is governed by <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/terms-of-service-of-printables-com_231249/">PRINTABLES Terms and Conditions</a>.</p>


How do Prusameters on Printables work?

Packing i3 printer for return - Custom Packing Material

<ul>
<li>Loading filament (updated chapter)</li>
<li>LCD screen (updated chapter)</li>
<li>Beeper settings (new chapter)</li>
<li>Language settings (new chapter)</li>
<li>MMU 2.0 (new chapter)</li>
<li>Slic3r PE (updated chapter)</li>
<li>Filament sensor (updated chapter)</li>
<li>Updating firmware (updated chapter)</li>
<li>Linearity correction (new chapter)</li>
</ul>


3.04

<p>Printer firmware update (3.7.2)</p>
<ul>
<li>Protection against multiple power panics (for MK3)</li>
<li>Autonomous fan self-test</li>
<li>Incorrect firmware flashing protection</li>
<li>Min. temp safety trigger</li>
<li>Enforced fan check</li>
<li>Filament runout delay fix</li>
<li>Extruder position after fan error fix</li>
<li>Text format correction on Live adjust Z screen</li>
<li>Display target temperature at PID calibration screen</li>
</ul>
<p>MMU2S Unit firmware update (v1.0.5)</p>
<ul>
<li>This fw version improves mmu2 unit function when used with MK3S and MK2.5S printers with IR sensor. Especially T-code filament loading phase reliability was improved. It is now possible to resume print after MMU load fail detected by printer also by MMU button.</li>
</ul>


3.7.2 (1.0.5)

<ul>
<li>Steel sheet profiles (<a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/firmware-3-8-0-final-for-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">more info about settings</a>)</li>
<li>Nozzle diameter setup</li>
<li>Preliminary checks</li>
<li>Firmware onscreen notification</li>
<li>Revised sound warnings</li>
<li>Heatbed noise at 110 V (60 Hz)</li>
<li>Crash detection fixes</li>
<li>Addition of the ASA material</li>
</ul>


3.8.0

<ul>
<li>First layer calibration using multiple filament types (PLA, PET, ASA, ABS, HIPS, PP, FLEX)</li>
<li>Repeated First layer calibration settings added</li>
<li>Fan error on Octoprint bug fixed</li>
<li>New Live Adjust Z shortcut (Long press of the rotation knob - available only between 0-2 mm of print height)</li>
<li>Move Z shortcut adjustment - not possible during the print)</li>
<li>Translations corrections</li>
<li>Other bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.8.1

<p><strong>This is a major release, please, update!</strong>Stats: 409 commits, 108 pull requests, 66 closed issues, cooperation with 14 developers</p>
<ul>
<li>Linear Advance 1.5</li>
<li>Automatic E-jerk conversion</li>
<li>Laser filament sensor sensitivity fix</li>
<li>Screen brightness adjustment</li>
<li>New G-code files sorting</li>
<li>Toggle and Translations</li>
<li>Show current Z offset in reset dialog before first layer calibration</li>
<li>Unknown Z coordinate displayed</li>
<li>Safer moves in Z-axis, if the position is unknown</li>
<li>Heating disabled during MBL</li>
<li>MINTEMP value lowered</li>
<li>MINTEMP error differentiated</li>
<li>Flickering “Statistics” screen fixed</li>
<li>Tone timer re-enabled</li>
<li>Nozzle crash protection improved</li>
<li>Belt test improvements</li>
<li>Decoupling XYZ relative and E relative</li>
</ul>


3.9.0

<ul>
<li>Major improvements to LA15</li>
<li>Support for parts from selected vendors</li>
<li>Ambient temperature check</li>
<li>PC Blend preheat added</li>
<li>Stack corruption fixed</li>
<li>More precise Belt test</li>
<li>Octoprint causing M112 fixed</li>
</ul>


3.9.1

<ul>
<li>XYZ calibration optimization - SuperPINDA compatibility (<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/november2020_update_original_prusa_i3_mk3splus_miniplus_mini_kit_satin_steel_sheet_40870/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">more info</a>)</li>
</ul>


3.9.2

<ul>
<li>Redesigned XYZ calibration, which is now more precise</li>
</ul>


3.9.3

<ul>
<li>New "Print from SD" menu</li>
<li>"Time Remaining" function improved</li>
<li>Community translations</li>
<li>Faster and quieter XYZ calibration</li>
<li>Optimizations for the MK3 filament sensor</li>
<li>PVB preheat preset</li>
<li>Satin sheet profiles</li>
<li>G-code "M204 T" implemented</li>
<li>Improved filament troubleshooting</li>
<li>Support for 0.8mm nozzles</li>
<li>Optimizations for print hosts (e.g. Octoprint)</li>
<li>Optimized code size and RAM usage</li>
<li>File listing adjusted for remote printing software</li>
<li>Z offset during M600 reverted</li>
<li>Factory reset menu extended</li>
</ul>


3.10.0

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<ul>
<li>New debugging functions &amp; crash analysis tools</li>
<li>A rare memory bug debugged and fixed</li>
<li>Long-Press action fixed</li>
<li>Move auto reporting out of the temperature ISR</li>
<li>Uint8_t used consistently for the block buffer's index</li>
<li>Arduino boards definition updated</li>
<li>Build script updated</li>
<li>Algorithm for reading SN in EEPROM improved</li>
<li>Spanish translation fixed</li>
<li>Firmware version parsing removed</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.10.1

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul>
<li>New community translations</li>
<li>Added LCD support for `äöüß` and `μ`</li>
<li>SN check fixed</li>
<li>Changes to on-screen messages</li>
<li>Known issue (LCD glitches)</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

3.11.0

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0


<ul>
<li>New thermal model protection</li>



<li>Nozzle change menu</li>



<li>NylonPA sheet profile added</li>



<li>Arc interpolation features G2/G3</li>



<li>UI improvements and fixes</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.12.0


<ul>
<li>Thermal model - important info</li>



<li>Restore correct RPM for fans</li>



<li>Set the calibration state when running M310 A</li>



<li>Max Z-coordinate during Nozzle Change</li>



<li>Message selection fix</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.12.1


<ul>
<li>Thermal model updates</li>



<li>Update on E3D Revo</li>



<li>Self Test message fixed</li>



<li>FLC procedure updated</li>



<li>List of pull requests</li>
</ul>


3.12.2


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa i3 MK3

General Information

Articles

Shipping information

Customer support

FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

Food safe FDM printing

Assembly manuals

Warranty

Printer Handbooks

Original Prusa Serial Number

Unpacking an assembled i3 printer

Packing i3 printer for return

Types of printers and their differences

Photo and video documentation

FAQ - Extended buyers-guide

Factory repair

Glossary i3-Series

UPS backup for your printer

How do Prusameters on Printables work?

Packing i3 printer for return - Custom Packing Material

Top Prusa Forum Posts

Part with holes and bad printed edges

Infill troubles

Z Level Error and THERMAL ANOMALY

The Thermal Beeping!!!

The Thermal Beeping!!!

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