MK2.5S

<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade <br /></strong></p>
<p>The current lead time is <strong>3-4 weeks </strong>for both xLCD versions.</p>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order week</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order date</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Shipping estimate</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">Week 33</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">starts August 12, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 33.25px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Already shipped</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 34</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 19, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 101.203px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="5">
<p>Currently shipping</p>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 35</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 26, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 36</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts September 2, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 37</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 9, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">Week 38</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">starts September 16, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 39</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 23, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 54px;" rowspan="2">From week 46 (starts November 11, 2024)</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 40</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 30, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 41</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 7, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 84px;" rowspan="3">From week 47 (starts November 18, 2024)</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 42</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 14, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 43</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 21, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 44</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 28, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="2">From week 48 (starts November 25, 2024)</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Week 45</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">starts November 4, 2024</td>
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<p></p>
<p> </p>
<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: November 4th, 2024 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p></p>
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<td style="height: 27.922px; width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Product</h4>
</td>
<td style="height: 27.922px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
</td>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL Enclosure<br /></strong><em>(standalone)</em><strong><br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Advanced Filtration System <br /></strong>(for Original Prusa Enclosure)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade<br /></strong>/MK4S upgrade for versions with old xLCD</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.5S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit (for MK4S/MK3.9S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK4S/MK3.9S) </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK4/MK3.9)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK3.5S/MK3.5) </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK3S+) </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />for MK4S/MK3.9S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
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</table>
<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical </strong>resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the <strong>XY plane</strong>, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The layer height should be below 80% of the nozzle diameter (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters.</p>
<p>The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">the spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, except the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top parts of models are usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/41556b3e1891b8d0ae47c43fb032cb68.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Layers and Perimeters REVIEW" alt="" width="600" height="128" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see some sag in the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Note that when printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<p>This option was removed in PrusaSlicer 2.6. The new algorithm is much smarter than the previous implementations and is automatically applied where needed.</p>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer ensures it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space, an infill pattern fills the void between these inside/outside perimeters. </p>
<p>Enabling <strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate a single perimeter that works as both an inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<p>This feature is automatically disabled if the <strong>Arachne perimeter generator</strong> is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historical reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick Bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em> Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan. </p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arrange them into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>Staggered inner seams</h3>
<p>This feature causes the inner seams to be shifted backward based on their depth, forming a zigzag pattern. This creates a stronger part by avoiding that the seams align.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<h3>Perimeter generator</h3>
<p>Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.</p>


Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

Infill patterns

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 to MK2.5S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Slicing

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

Printer troubleshooting

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Left toolbar

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

2. Disassembly

2. Extruder disassembly

3. E-axis assembly

4. Heatbed assembly

4. Electronics assembly

5. Electronics

5. Preflight check

6. Preflight check

Manual changelog MK2.5S

<p>Plastic parts used on our 3D printers are printed by the same machines, holding on to the original idea of the <a href="http://reprap.org/">RepRap project</a>. If you want to print replacement parts or upgrades, have your printer in a different color, or modify parts, they are all available online.</p>
<h3>The naming of printable parts</h3>
<p>To know the origin of our printable parts, the names of the parts always start with <strong>an alphabetical letter</strong> followed by a <strong>number</strong>. The identification can be found in larger parts. In smaller printed parts where the identification does not fit, dots and squares are used. It starts with a single dot,<em><strong> </strong></em>the number of dots corresponds to the serial number of the version. Squares are used for custom plastics. It starts with one square, the number of squares corresponds to the serial number of the version.</p>
<ul style="list-style-type: disc;">
<li><strong>A/B/C/D/dots/triangles</strong>: Parts printed in the Prusa Farm sent with the printers or found at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/">our e-shop</a>.</li>
<li><strong>R/S/T/squares: </strong>Parts that can be found at <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Prusa3D/collections/54487">Prusa Research profile at Printables</a>, <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Prusa3D site</a> or our <a href="http://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">Github</a>. These are the parts you can print yourself.</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">
<p>The numbers might differ on the parts printed on the farm and the parts printed at home, even if they are the same part.</p>
</div>
<h3>Downloading printable parts</h3>
<h4>Printables.com</h4>
<p>We have published STL files for every printable part of our printers, as well as printing instructions, to Printable's print depository. Here you can easily browse and view parts by their area of installation using the Printables folders feature.</p>
<p>Check out the <a href="http://www.printables.com/social/16-prusa-research/collections/54487">Printable parts collection on Printables</a> to find the parts you need.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-547x400.jpg 547w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-800x586.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-300x220.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-768x562.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="293" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-547x400.jpg 547w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-800x586.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-300x220.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-768x562.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="293" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Prusa3d.com</h4>
<p>You can find the latest printable parts for all of our 3D printers or printer upgrades at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Prusa i3 Printable parts</a>. Printable parts are divided into two groups:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Complete kits</strong> - contains a full set of plastic parts for the entire 3D printer.</li>
<li><strong>Upgrades</strong> - contains only the parts for upgrading to the new version of the printer.</li>
</ul>
<p>You can download STL files for all plastic parts and <strong>pre-sliced GCODES for all upgrades.</strong></p>
<h3>Settings</h3>
<p>If you decide to generate your G-codes, it is recommended to use:</p>
<ul>
<li>Material: <strong>PETG</strong></li>
<li><strong>0.2 mm layer height QUALITY preset</strong></li>
<li><strong>Infill: 15% GRID</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>The <strong style="color: #4b4c50;">'Fan-shroud'- part,</strong> which directs air from the print fan to the part, <strong>should be printed in ASA or ABS</strong>, but otherwise with the same settings.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you have printed your own plastic parts, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/postprocessing-of-3d-prints-step-by-step/">check this article</a> for guidance on post-processing.</div>
<h3>Project files (STEP/SCAD)</h3>
<p>We do not provide the actual project files for our printed parts. Too many different programs are being used for that. However, if you are interested in modifying the parts we have made STEP files (in addition to STL files) available on our <a href="http://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">Github</a>, for all parts.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Project files (STEP/SCAD) are only available in the GitHub branch/tree where they were initially released.</div>
<p>Some parts were designed using OpenSCAD, where SCAD files are the project files you can edit. For that reason, <strong>for all parts designed with OpenSCAD, there are only SCAD files and no STEP files available.</strong> This also includes metal parts.</p>
<ul>
<li>MK-series: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3</a></li>
<li>MINI: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-MINI/releases">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-MINI/releases</a></li>
<li>SL1: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-SL1">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-SL1</a></li>
</ul>
<p>For the MK series select the branch for the machine you are after and navigate to the file.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-300x187.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-600x375.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-768x480.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-800x500.png 800w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<h2> </h2>


Printable parts for Original Prusa

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

<p>Loose belts would cause a printer to malfunction and prevent proper printing. It can cause <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/layer-shifting_2020">Layer shifting</a>, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ghosting_1801">Ghosting</a>, or other print abnormalities like getting an irregular shape instead of a perfect circle when printing a cylinder. <strong>The Y-axis belt is located under the heatbed, X-axis belt moves the print head. All adjustments are done with the 2.5mm Allen key. </strong></p>
<h3>Checking belt tension</h3>
<h4>New procedure - Belt tuner app</h4>
<p>For checking the belt tightness using our <a href="https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/">belt tuner</a>, follow the instructions in the video below.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oeq2MVxE_H8" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<h4>Old procedure</h4>
<p>On MK3/S/+, run the Self-test or the Belt test, from Calibration on the LCD. Then check <em>LCD-menu -&gt; Support -&gt; Belt-status.</em> You want the number between <strong>260 and 290 (275~)</strong>. <em>The lower the number, the tighter the belt is. Imagine it is a fictive count of teeth in circulation.</em></p>
<div class="tip-callout">For the MK2.5 and MK2.5S, a great way to check whether your belt is at the correct tension is to print this <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/46639-tension-meter-for-the-gt2-belts-of-i3-mk3s-or-prus">Tension Meter for the GT2 belts</a>.</div>
<p>Another way is to use the technique described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_28536#30816">this step</a> of the assembly manual to test if the pulley is correctly tightened and if the belt is not too loose. Hold the X-axis motor shaft with pliers (take advantage of the flat part of the shaft) to fix it in place (<strong><span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple circle</span></strong>), then try to move the extruder by hand. <strong>You should see no slack on the belt as a result of pushing on the extruder.</strong> The same procedure can be applied to test the Y-axis pulley and belt.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/2019-08-21-16-07-05-f-jmg-pa-bdtv-ruqf-11-full-1600-1200.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="415" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>X-axis belt</h3>
<h4>Slight adjustments MK3S</h4>
<p>Loosen the two front-facing screws and make sure they have space to their right to move (<span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>yellow circles</strong></span>). While assisting with the rotation of the motor with your hand, tighten the M3x18 screw on top of the X-end-motor (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span>).</p>
<p>After each turn or two check the tension in the belt by pressing them together. For optimal performance, the belt must need some force to press together with your fingers (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span>). <strong>Move the extruder all the way to the X-end-idler and try the belt tension in the middle of the X-axis.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Slight adjustments MK3S+, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S</h4>
<ol>
<li>Slightly release all the screws holding the motor, otherwise, the "tensioner" won't work as the motor must be able to move (left picture).</li>
<li>Using the ball end of the Allen key, start tightening the screw on the rear side of the X-end-motor, but after each turn or two check the tension in the belt (right picture).</li>
<li>When you achieve optimal tension, please tighten the screws again (left picture).</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Large adjustments MK3/S/+ or MK3.5/S</h4>
<p>If a slight adjustment is not sufficient you must adjust it at the belt holder. This is found on the back of the extruder and requires a little disassembly.</p>
<p>First, remove the two top screws from the motor-holder to let the belt have some slack in order to easier manipulate the belt.</p>
<ol>
<li>Snip the zip-ties on the back of the extruder (<span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>red arrows</strong></span>), which are securing the hotend wires <strong>and</strong> the ones securing the cable wrap.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjusting-belt-tension-MK3S-03.png" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="2">
<li style="counter-increment: li 1;">Unscrew the 4 screws circled in the picture below.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjusting-belt-tension-MK3S-04.png" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="3">
<li style="counter-increment: li 2;">Carefully pull the back plate loose, making sure the wires are safe, and turn the whole plate to the left or right.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjusting-belt-tension-MK3S-05.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="574" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="4">
<li style="counter-increment: li 3;">You now have access to where you mount the belts. Put a mark on the belt with a pen or marker as close to the plastic part as possible, so you know how it was adjusted. Now, take out the belt from the mount and move it in 1-2 teeth.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">It may be necessary to cut off the last tooth of the belt.</div>
<ol start="5">
<li style="counter-increment: li 4;">Place the back plate back on, secure the screws, starting with the center one for alignment, then put on new zip-ties.</li>
<li>Re-tighten the screws on the x-motor, securing it. Adjust it tighter if needed.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Large adjustments MK4/S, MK3.9/S</h4>
<ol>
<li>Loosen the three indicated screws covering the X-carriage. Carefully take out the X-cover-back.
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/96f49f4aee27a2e4c92ed6d0dd7ff4c9_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Adjusting belt tension (review)" alt="" width="600" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
</li>
<li>You now have access to where you mount the belt. Put a mark on the belt with a pen or marker as close to the plastic part as possible, so you know how it was adjusted. Now, take out the belt from the mount and move it in 1-2 teeth.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5d0b7637d19fdb682ff706171280e0fb.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Adjusting belt tension (review)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Y-axis belt</h3>
<h4>Slight adjustments</h4>
<p>On the front plate of the printer's frame, behind the LCD module, you will find the printed Y-axis belt idler. This is held by two M3X10 screws (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span>), going through the front plate.</p>
<p>If you have a gap between the idler part and the front plate of the frame (<span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>blue arrows</strong></span>) you can tighten the belt by using your 2.5 mm Allen key to turn the screws clockwise (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span>), closing the gap.</p>
<p>The easiest way to access the screws is from below, by moving the printer to the edge of its table, with the LCD module sticking out. You now have access to the bolts from below the LCD module.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-583x400.jpeg 583w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-800x549.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-300x206.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-768x527.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-1536x1053.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="411" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Large adjustments</h4>
<p>If a slight adjustment is not sufficient you must adjust it at the belt holder. There are two main types of the Y-axis belt holder, one adjustable and one fixed. The adjustable belt holder was introduced in the first quarter of 2019, with the S-upgrade for the Original Prusa MK3, and is also featured on the Original Prusa MK4. Adjustments for this are explained in '<strong>Method 1</strong>'. For an earlier Original Prusa MK3, follow '<strong>Method 2</strong>', for the fixed belt holder.</p>
<h4>Method 1 - Adjustable belt holder</h4>
<div class="tip-callout">The Original Prusa MK4/S has a different design than in the pictures, but the procedure is the same. </div>
<ol>
<li>Unplug the printer and lay it over on the side of the PSU.</li>
<li>Below the bed carriage, you will find the belt holder. Loosen the right screw by turning it <strong>counterclockwise</strong> (<span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>orange circle</strong></span> left picture).</li>
<li>Turn the screw going through the two halves of the belt holder (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span> right picture). Turn <strong>clockwise</strong> to tighten the belt, moving the two halves together (<span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>blue arrows</strong></span>).</li>
<li>When at the correct tension, secure the right half of the belt holder again by turning the screw from step 2 clockwise (<span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>orange circle</strong></span> left picture).</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Method 2 - Fixed belt holder</h4>
<ol>
<li>Unplug the printer and lay it over on the side of the PSU.</li>
<li>Detach the belt-idler in order to easier manipulate the belt (<strong><span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrows</span></strong>). <em>Detaching the idler completely may not be necessary, but will make it easier to adjust the belt in the next step.</em></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="3">
<li style="counter-increment: li 2;">Set a mark on the belt so you know how much you are moving it. Now take out the belt of the top slot, and move it in 1-2 teeth (<strong><span style="color: #236fa1;">blue arrow</span></strong>) before pushing it back into the slot (<strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span></strong>).</li>
</ol>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /><em>Your belt mount may look slightly different, being another iteration, but the procedure remains the same.</em></p>
<ol start="4">
<li style="counter-increment: li 3;">Re-attach the belt-idler with its two M3x10 screws through the frame (<strong><span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span></strong>). Leave a gap with the frame, for slight adjustments (<strong>blue arrows</strong>). </li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-583x400.jpeg 583w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-800x549.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-300x206.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-768x527.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-1536x1053.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="411" loading="lazy" /></p>

Adjusting belt tension (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MK3/S/+)

<p>The Original Prusa MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+, and MK3.5/S use the E3D V6 Hotend. Any nozzle that is compatible with the E3D V6 Hotend can be installed on it. The stock nozzle that accompanies the printer is an E3D V6 0.4 mm brass nozzle, but other types and <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">diameters</a> can be used as well. <strong>The following procedure applies to all nozzles, except the Olsson Ruby.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>To replace the Olsson Ruby nozzle,</strong> follow the instructions on the <a href="https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/66-the-olsson-ruby-instructions-for-use">official 3DVERKSTAN website</a>. Otherwise, you could damage it!</div>
<h3>Why change the nozzle?</h3>
<p>There might be two main reasons for replacing the nozzle:</p>
<ul>
<li>The nozzle is worn out and needs a replacement.</li>
<li>You want to print using a different nozzle type, and/or diameter.</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">Unless you print abrasive materials with a brass nozzle, the stock brass nozzle will last you many hundreds of printing hours. Changing a relatively new nozzle to resolve a clog is not the solution!</div>
<div>The stock 0.4mm Nozzle installed on the Original Prusa i3 printers <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nozzle-e3d-v6-0-4-mm/">can be found in the eshop</a>. We also offer <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nozzle-0-4/">an alternative 0.4mm nozzle</a> compatible with i3 and MINI/+ printers.</div>
<h3>Tools necessary</h3>
<ul>
<li>2.5 mm Allen key (Included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>7 mm spanner/socket or pliers (7 mm spanner/socket not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>17 mm spanner (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>Small plate or aluminium foil (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
</ul>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<p>The following procedure assumes that a firmware version from 3.12.0 or above is installed. In case your printer has a previous firmware version, we recommend <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227">upgrading to the latest version</a>. If you did not flash a newer firmware version, follow the procedure, except for "Step 3 alternative" instead of step 3.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Follow this procedure exactly!</strong> Omitting steps can cause leaking and extrusion issues outlined at the end of this article.</div>
<ol start="1">
<li>Unload the filament, if it is loaded, from <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Unload Filament</em>. Optionally, perform a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)</a>.</li>
<li>On <strong>MK2.5/S</strong> and <strong>MK3/S/+</strong>, navigate to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; HW Setup -&gt; Nozzle Change</em>.
<ol type="a">
<li>The printer will display a message with a link to this guide.</li>
<li><strong>Click the LCD encoder</strong>: the printer will auto-home, and subsequently move the Z axis to the topmost position, and the X axis to the center. In the meantime, the printer will automatically heat the nozzle to <strong>280 °C</strong>. Heating the nozzle is essential for this process.</li>
<li>Once the nozzle is at <strong>280 °C</strong>, the printer screen will display the following message: "<strong>Hotend at 280C! Nozzle changed and tightened to specs?</strong>". Do not click on the LCD encoder for now. 
<p>On <strong>MK3.5/S</strong>, gain better access to the nozzle by moving the extruder as high as possible, go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Move Axis -&gt; Move Z</em>. Spin the <strong>Knob</strong> to adjust the height. Once this is done, preheat the nozzle to 280 °C from <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle Temperature</em>. </li>
</ol>
</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">CAUTION: Heated parts can cause severe burns!</div>
<ol start="3">
<li>Unscrew the two screws on the print fan and the single screw securing the fan shroud. Remove both parts (picture below).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/85adeda53781f1c8b8e5ad32a6c8d6c6.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+) review" alt="" width="600" height="403" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>Hold the heater block with a 17 mm spanner (M10) or adjustable wrench.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Be extra careful around the <strong>fragile</strong> hotend heater and thermistor wires. You can break them off or <strong>short-circuit the heater with your spanner!</strong></div>
<ol start="5">
<li>Unscrew the nozzle using the supplied pliers. If you are using the E3D nozzles from our online store, use a 7mm spanner (M4) or 7 mm socket. <strong>Be careful, the nozzle is still hot! Place it out of the way on your non-flammable surface.</strong></li>
<li>Make sure that the printer is still on the screen described in step 3c, and that the set temperature (280 °C) didn't change. Holding the heater block with your spanner, carefully screw the new nozzle in and tighten it gently, but firmly. <strong>Do not use excessive force!</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Our service and assembly teams use a torque wrench rated for 1 - 5 N m and <strong>tighten the nozzle with a force of 2.5 N m</strong> (Newton Meter).</div>
<h3>Final inspection</h3>
<p><strong>There must always be a gap (~0.5 mm)</strong> between the nozzle and the heater block (left picture). The nozzle must be tightened/secured in the heater block, and <strong>locked against the heat break</strong> while heated (right picture). Failing to do so will cause leaks (center picture).</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>It is necessary to redo the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> after replacing the nozzle.</strong> If you installed a nozzle with a diameter other than 0.4 mm (0.25, 0.6, 0.8 mm), please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">Different nozzle types</a>.</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 39.2947%;"><img decoding="async" style="float: left;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 60.7053%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-300x136.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-600x272.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-768x348.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-800x363.png 800w" alt="" width="772" height="350" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find this procedure as <a href="https://youtu.be/txt6sxV6X88">a video on our YouTube channel</a>. Be aware that some steps may differ slightly from the procedure outlined here, and printed parts of the extruder may look a little different than yours.</div>


Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+, MK3.5/S)

<p></p>
<p>A 'cold pull' is a technique that allows you to clean your printer’s nozzle and hotend from any material that may be stuck or burnt inside. You can also use it to clean your hotend during your usual maintenance routine.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">If you are using Nozzle X, <strong>do not</strong> use the cold-pull method, but only use cleaning filament.</div>
<p>The cold pull should be made if your nozzle is only partially clogged, and some filament is still being extruded. If the nozzle is completely clogged, please check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">Clogged nozzle guide</a>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Our testing has found that <strong>PLA works best for a cold pull,</strong> as other filaments do not retain the tip as PLA does and they will either tear or melt too much. However, there are filaments specifically made for cleaning hotends.</div>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> (MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+) / <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle </em>(MK3.5/S), and set the temperature to 270 °C.</li>
<li>While waiting for the nozzle to reach the temperature, toggle the <strong>Filament autoload</strong> off in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Fil. sensor -&gt; F. autoload </em>(MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+) / <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Filament sensor </em>(MK3.5/S).</li>
<li>Still being in the <em>Menu</em>, go to <em>Settings</em> and choose <em>Disable steppers </em>(MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+). On MK3.5/S, navigate to <em>Control -&gt; Disable motors</em>. <br /><em>There is no message of the steppers being disabled, but you may hear an electrical hiss disappear when selected. <strong>If you can move the bed or extruder on its axis by hand, they are disabled.</strong></em></li>
<li>Open the Extruder Idler door. <em>Unscrew the screws circled below using a 2.5 mm Allen key. On the MMU2S and MMU3, unscrew the Bowden PTFE tube that connects the MMU unit with the extruder.</em></li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-600x600.jpg 600w" alt="" width="400" height="399" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-300x216.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-554x400.jpg 554w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-768x554.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-800x577.jpg 800w" alt="mmu" width="400" height="290" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="5">
<li>Once it has reached 270 °C, insert PLA filament manually into the extruder and push it in until it starts pouring out of the nozzle.</li>
<li>Stop heating by pressing <em>Cooldown</em> in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Preheat</em> (scroll all the way down), or by pressing the reset (X) button. Let the nozzle temperature drop to room temperature. To speed up the cooling you can engage the print fan at full speed, from<em> LCD menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Fan speed -&gt; [255].</em></li>
<li>Continue manually pushing the filament down until the temperature is too low for it to melt and come out (around 170 °C for PLA). <em>The nozzle has to be filled for the cold pull to be successful.</em></li>
<li>Pick away extruded material so there is nothing obstructing the pull later on.</li>
<li>After the nozzle cools down to the room temperature, go again to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 85 °C.</li>
<li><strong>As soon as the extruder reaches this temperature</strong>, grab the filament with pliers and pull it slowly but steadily out of the extruder. <em>The filament can break inside. Make sure to pull straight upwards, not sideways. Hold the extruder with your other hand.</em></li>
<li>Don't stop until the filament is completely pulled out from the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Results</h3>
<p>On the tip of the filament that has been pulled out, you may see remnants of the previous material(s) you have been using or some burnt dirt that has settled in the nozzle (left picture). You might want to repeat this procedure several times until the filament comes out clean.</p>
<p>The right picture shows what a clean cold-pulled filament should look like. It is important to have the imprint of the nozzle on it, this way you are sure the nozzle was filled and nothing was left inside. Also, the color is not mixed with the one you have been using previously or have dark marks on it.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-300x214.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-561x400.jpg 561w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-768x548.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-800x571.jpg 800w" alt="dirty cold pull" width="400" height="286" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-300x203.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-591x400.jpg 591w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-768x520.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-800x542.jpg 800w" alt="clean cold pull" width="693" height="469" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>After the procedure</h3>
<p>Secure the idler door by having <strong>the head of the idler screw</strong>, on the left of the extruder, <strong>about flush with the plastic parts, when the filament is not loaded.</strong> Then we recommend running the Z calibration as pushing on the extruder might have thrown it off balance. Also, turn the filament sensor/filament autoload back on.<br />On MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+, the Z-axis calibration is found in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Calibrate Z</em>).<br />On MK3.5/S, the Z-axis calibration is found in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Calibrations &amp; tests -&gt; 3. Z alignment calibration</em>.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">this article</a> to learn about the most common causes leading to filament extrusion problems and how to prevent them from happening.</div>

Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)

Prusa Connect &amp; PrusaLink

<p>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink are two remote printing solutions developed in-house by Prusa. Its origin is in the management system used in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/guinness-world-records-1096-original-prusa-3d-printers-running-at-the-same-time_30677/">record-sized print farm located in Prague HQ.</a></p>
<ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Prusa Connect</strong> is a cloud service for remote printing available from anywhere.</li>
<li><strong>PrusaLink</strong>* is the client-side running locally on your printer, accessible from local network</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<p><em>*formerly known as Prusa Connect Local</em></p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>Prusa Connect (<a href="http://connect.prusa3d.com">connect.prusa3d.com</a>) allows you to control your individual printers or even manage a print farm from anywhere in the world.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/9f18d1552ef82ea7ef4960a43a86a17b.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained" alt="" width="900" height="607" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of Prusa Connect interface (cloud service)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>It is available for free to the owners of selected Original Prusa printers (see the list below). You get a free 1 GB of cloud storage for your G-codes and telemetric data. The full list of features and pricing for end customers or businesses will be announced later on.</p>
<p>Furthermore, Prusa Connect is able to monitor the use of each printer individually, providing valuable statistics of your production environment. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is PrusaLink?</h2>
<p>Much like <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/about-octoprint_1790">Octoprint</a>, this remote printer-management system runs locally on your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/12af6bd49830e088.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink and Prusa Connect explained" alt="" width="1451" height="800" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of PrusaLink interface (local network)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Its main goal is to provide communication between your printer and the Prusa Connect cloud. The secondary function is to provide a web interface, which can be used on your local (home) network only. Simply paste the printer's IP address into your web browser to access it. Using PrusaLink alone you can monitor your printer, upload G-codes, start or cancel a print. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>How to install and configure PrusaLink and Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>To use the Prusa Connect, you have to first set up the PrusaLink on your printer. The guides below will take you to step by step through the entire process.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 135.328125px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>FDM printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa<strong> MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK3/S/+</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">via RPi / RPi Zero (GPIO</a>/<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK2.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">via RPi (USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>XL</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>MINI / MINI +</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>SLA printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1S SPEED</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<h3>Next-gen Original Prusa printers</h3>
<p>Such as the<strong> MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+, SL1/SL1S </strong> as well as the other upcoming models have the PrusaLink built-in. You can connect the printer either using Wi-Fi or a wired LAN (Ethernet) network. Note that on MINI/+, you have to first <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">install the Wi-Fi module</a> to use the wireless functionality.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL, MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL, MINI/+)</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">Installing Wi-Fi and PrusaLink (MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">PrusaLink (SL1/S)</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S</h3>
<p>In this case, the PrusaLink name also refers to the required hardware solution of a Raspberry Pi (RPi). These printers don't have enough performance, therefore additional hardware is required. PrusaLink is a replacement for the discontinued <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusaprint-rpi-zero-and-octoprint_2180">PrusaPrint solution</a> (Octoprint and the RPi Zero W).</p>
<h4>Which Raspberry Pi should I get for my i3 (MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S)?</h4>
<p>For your MK3/S/+, you need to get a Raspberry Pi (RPi) to make the PrusaLink and Prusa Connect work. The supported RPi boards are listed below and if you are about to purchase a new one, it is highly recommended to seek the latest generation, as the older ones might be slower.</p>
<p>On MK3/S/+, you can attach the RPi Zero <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">directly onto the printer’s mainboard</a> or use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a>.<br />On MK2.5/S, you have to use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a> to the RPi. Then, the PrusaLink and PrusaConnect setup is fairly similar to the MK3/S/+.</p>
<p>Since the RPi doesn't have internal storage, you need to get a MicroSD card. Recommended SD card: Micro SD, SDHC standard, Class 10, 8GB or more. Preferably, choose a name-brand card known to work with RPi. Do backups regularly as even a name-brand card doesn’t guarantee you won’t lose your data. </p>
<p><strong>Supported boards (GPIO connection on Einsy Rambo)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Supported boards (USB connection)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi 4</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3+</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Unsupported boards</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero (without Wi-Fi) and older</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 2 and older</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>What not to do while RPi Zero W/2 is connected and the printer is powered up:<br /></strong><br />- Don't move any of the printer's axes by hand! Use the Move Axis menu only.<br />- Don't connect or disconnect the RPi.<br />- Don't insert or remove the microSD card inside the RPi.<br />- Don't touch the RPi board.<br />- For connecting or powering the RPi, don't use any other methods than the ones endorsed by Prusa.<br />- Only follow the guidance from the official documentation issued by Prusa Research.<br />- Prusa Research is not responsible for any damage done by or caused to third-party hardware.</div>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect setup (MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">PrusaLink/Prusa Connect with RPi 3/4 (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-update-prusalink-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_650837">How to update PrusaLink (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Other guides related to Prusa Connect and PrusaLink:</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/camera-setup-for-prusalink-prusa-connect_470943">Camera setup for PrusaLink / Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/camera-compatibility-rpi-prusalink_654918">Camera compatibility (RPi + PrusaLink)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/esp-camera-for-prusa-connect_390199">ESP Camera for Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/sending-files-from-prusaslicer-to-prusalink_222961">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to PrusaLink</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sending-g-codes-to-printer-via-network-prusaconnect-prusalink-octoprint_196761">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to printer via network (Prusa Connect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-telegram-notifications-setup_529662">Prusa Connect - Telegram notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-discord-notifications-setup_536115">Prusa Connect - Discord notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-slack-notifications-setup_536172">Prusa Connect - Slack notifications setup</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-set-a-static-ip-address_695648">How to set a static IP Address</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-connect-to-rpi-via-ssh_658030">How to connect to RPi via SSH</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/connecting-original-prusa-sl1-sl1s-to-prusaslicer_133977">Connecting SL1/S to PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">Internet Connection (SL1/S)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_419630">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (XL firmware up to 4.7.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_420001">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (XL firmware up to 4.7.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-local-mini_133279">Prusa Connect Local (Firmware 4.0.5 - 4.3.4, via Ethernet, Obsolete guide) (MINI/+)</a> <br /> <br />  </li>
</ul>
<h3>Octoprint / Other / 3rd-party projects:</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/octoprint-setup-on-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_646395">Octoprint setup ( MK4 / MK3.9 / MK3.5 / XL )</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182">Octoprint Configuration and install (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/about-octoprint_1790">About Octoprint</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-ESP32-Cam">ESP32 Cam for Prusa Connect (GitHub)</a></li>
</ul>


Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained

<p>The materials used for FFF 3D printing are mostly hygroscopic. This means that they readily attract water molecules from the environment they are in. When used for printing, a material that has gathered humidity might not behave as expected.</p>
<h3>Prevention</h3>
<p>Some filaments are more hygroscopic than others. When using a new material, make sure to research its properties and the best way to store it. It is best to avoid having to dry the filament if possible.</p>
<p>It is best to store your filaments in a closed space or box, with some desiccant material in it. If you have limited availability for this type of storage, prioritize storing filaments that are more hygroscopic. PLA, for example, doesn't change properties too much by uptaking humidity, whereas Polyamide is affected quite significantly.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">To prevent any issues with the highly hygroscopic materials (polyamid, polypropylen, PVA, BVOH, ...) it is recommended to either ensure they were stored in a dry environment or dry them before every print.</div>
<p>You can purchase a box with the specific purpose of keeping the filament dry, or <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/dryboxes-and-alternative-spool-holders-not-only-for-multimaterial-upgrade_30525/">make your own</a>.</p>
<p>Another popular solution to keep your filament dry is using vacuum bags for storage. There are bags specific for filaments, but you can use any that will fit a filament inside. Keep a desiccant in the bag when storing the filament.</p>
<h3>Multi-Tool Printing</h3>
<p>In printers like the Original Prusa XL, where filament is loaded directly into toolheads any humidity in the filament is critical. When printing with multiple toolheads, the unused tools remain heated (the idle temperature is set to 70°C by default). If the filament is wet, moisture is released into the tool, causing stringing in the toolhead. In such cases, even PLA can absorb enough moisture to create printing issues. This makes the XL more susceptible to filament moisture compared to single-tool printers, therefore we recommend drying the filament for printing on the Original Prusa XL.</p>
<h3>How to recognize if the filament has gathered humidity</h3>
<p>In case a material is affected by humidity, the general first signal will be a poor quality of the model surface.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some filaments are naturally more stringy than others. Make sure to compare different results from your prints, and check our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/stringing-and-oozing_1805">Stringing and oozing</a> guide.</div>
<p>In some cases, the high content of water in filament can cause low layer adhesion, blobs on the prints, and bubbling and smoke during extrusion.</p>
<p>Polyamide, PVA, and TPU (Flex) are filaments more commonly in need of drying than more popular filaments like PLA.</p>
<h3>Prusament black spool</h3>
<p>The black plastic sides of Prusament spools are firmly pressed into the cardboard cylinder. The plastic sides expand with rising temperature and cause the expansion of the cardboard center as well. When the temperature decreases plastic shrinks back to its original shape but the cardboard stays expanded which causes loosen spool. <strong>The spools can be heated up safely up to 45 ºC without this happening.</strong></p>
<p>Alternatively, it is possible to add a screw holding the two sides of the plastic together. The screw needs to have a thread of at least 65 mm. In the pictures, we use an M4x65 screw, tightened by a 3.5mm Allen key.</p>
<p>After heating up the spool to above 45 ºC, the screw will need to be in the spool until the end of its use, or else the spool will fall apart.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Prusament Grey spool</h3>
<p>The Prusament spools with grey plastic sides are also pressed to the cardboard center, but they are also glued. <strong>The glue added can withstand up to 90 ºC</strong>. So there is no need to add the screw to dry this spool if this temperature is not exceeded.</p>
<p>The PA11CF filament uses the grey Prusament spools. It is recommended to keep this filament in a dry box between each use, even if the filament will be used soon. In case that is not possible, dry the filament before each use.</p>
<h3>Drying methods</h3>
<h4>Temperatures</h4>
<p>Once we are sure that the spool will not fall apart, the following temperatures and times are recommended for the Prusament materials. It is important not to exceed these temperatures while drying the filament, or the filament will soften and stick together.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 128.8px;">
<thead>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Material</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Temperature</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Time</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PLA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PVB</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">8 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PETG</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">55 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">ASA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">80 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">85 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">5 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PCCF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">95 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">PA11CF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">90 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Filament dryer</h4>
<p>There are specialized boxes that will not only keep filaments dry but also actively remove the moisture from filaments. Usually, you are also able to keep the filament in the box while printing.</p>
<p>Make sure to check the specifications of the box you intend to use to make sure that it matches the drying temperature of your filament.</p>
<h4>Oven</h4>
<p>Since most people have an oven at home, this seems the easiest way to dry filament. However, some things need to be noted for filament drying in a conventional oven.</p>
<p>Home ovens don't have a very precise temperature measurement. The fluctuations that do not affect your food might damage your filament, especially low-temperature ones like PLA. If using an oven, make sure to have an external thermometer to correct the temperature if necessary.</p>
<p>Another issue is that a lot of home ovens cannot be set at a temperature low enough to dry the filaments without damaging them. Even if left for less time than recommended, high temperatures will damage the filament.</p>
<h4>Food dehydrator</h4>
<p>A different method of drying is adapting a food dehydrator to fit a filament spool inside. The adaptation is usually achieved by taking off the trays between the layers and placing the filaments inside. These dehydrators usually have only low temperatures, so check the drying temperature of your filament before purchasing one.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">After drying, make sure to store the filament properly.</div>


Drying filament

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ASA</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong>, due to its high UV light and temperature resistance. Unlike other materials soluble in more dangerous chemicals, <strong>ASA can be dissolved in acetone.</strong> The main disadvantage of this material is significant warping, which requires printing at higher ambient temperatures.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 260 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 105 °C for the first layer, 110 °C for the other layers.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-asa/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">ASA</strong></a> (Acrylic Styrene Acrylonitrile) is a technical material that is considered a <strong>successor to ABS</strong>. Compared to ABS, <strong>ASA is more UV resistant, warps less, and doesn’t smell as much.</strong> ASA is a tough and resilient material that is, thanks to its UV and temperature resistance (up to 93 °C), <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong> and for making technical parts. See for example our <strong>MK3S printer</strong> <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/"><strong>fan shroud.</strong></a> Another great advantage of ASA is its <strong>solubility in acetone vapors</strong>, which can be used to make a smooth and glossy finish. This gives the model not only great looks but also different mechanical properties (see our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>).</p>
<p>The main disadvantage of ASA is <strong>significant warping</strong> caused by temperature differences between the model and its surroundings. Another disadvantage is that ASA releases potentially dangerous fumes during printing - this means you should keep your printer in a well-ventilated area. ASA can be easily sanded both wet and dry.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ASA printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>You can find more details about how to print with ASA in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/asa-prusament-is-here-learn-everything-about-the-successor-to-abs/">our in-depth article</a>.</p>
<p>And to compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High UV resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ An enclosure is necessary for printing large parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Detailed prints with no stringing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Prints at high temperatures</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Easy postprocessing (e.g. sanding, cutting, etc.)</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Partially hygroscopic (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High impact and wear resistance</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p><strong>ASA</strong> is suitable for outdoor use and for making technical parts.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated to at least <strong>100 °C</strong>, and the printer should be inside an enclosure to keep a higher ambient temperature. If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/"><strong>PrusaSlicer</a></strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will create a wall around the object and keep the model slightly warmer, mitigating the warping. Keep in mind that printing a lot of ASA in an unventilated enclosure can cause the fan shroud and/or extruder plastic parts to deform over time. This may impact performance or cause issues.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p>
</div>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p><strong>ASA sticks very well to our print sheets</strong> (smooth and powder coated) but other print surfaces, like glass, might require a layer of acetone with dissolved ASA (or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a>). If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118"><strong>HIPS</strong></a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ASA and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not put acetone or ABS/ASA juice on the powder-coated sheet!</div>
<h3><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></h3>
<p>ASA is a pretty good material for postprocessing. Not only you can <strong>sand it wet and dry</strong> but you can also <strong>glue/weld it with acetone</strong> and <strong>smooth it with acetone vapors.</strong> Smoothed models have a glossy surface that looks like it’s treated with car lacquer or was injection molded. However, printed objects usually tend to lose detail and sharp edges with smoothing. You can find out more about chemical smoothing in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 572px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-302x400.jpg 302w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-452x600.jpg 452w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-226x300.jpg 226w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-768x1019.jpg 768w" alt="" width="772" height="1024"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Mechanical parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed prints</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Fan shroud (high-temperature resistant parts)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Outdoor (UV resistant) parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>It is recommended to regularly take some time to maintain your printer. This should be done even if the printer is working perfectly. <strong>The inspection and maintenance of its various components should be done every couple of hundred hours of print-time.</strong> This guide is valid for all the Original Prusa i3 printers, i.e. MK3S+, MK3s, MK3, MK2.5S, MK2.5, MK2S, and Plus 1.75 mm.<strong><br /></strong></p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can check the number of printing hours from your printer in the <em>LCD menu - Statistics</em>.</div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc-562x400.jpg 562w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc-800x570.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc-300x214.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc-768x547.jpg 768w" alt="" width="703" height="500" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Useful tools:</h3>
<p><strong>Besides the usual tools, such as Allen keys, needle-nose pliers, and IPA + paper towels, you might need:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Lubricant:</strong> the best option is the Prusa lubricant. One is sent with the printer, but it can also be found in our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/">e-shop</a>. Other recommended lubricants are Super Lube 210XX, GLEIT-µ HF 400, and Mogul LV 2-EP. We do not recommend lubricants with a very high viscosity.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not apply lubricant on the trapezoid nuts or the threaded lead screws of the Z-axis!</strong></div>
<ul>
<li><strong>Compressed air:</strong> also known as canned air. Be sure to not hold it upside down while spraying - otherwise, you could damage any electronic components while trying to clean them.</li>
<li><strong>Brush:</strong> a small brass brush is an ideal tool for cleaning the Bondtech filament pulleys. If you don't have a brass brush any brush with hard bristles will do the job. Alternative: You can use the acupuncture needle that comes with the printer or a toothpick.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Axes check</h3>
<p><strong>What to check on your printer:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Smooth rods:</strong> scratches/grooves - take each rod between two/three fingers and move them slowly from one end of the rod to another, while rotating the fingers around the rod. If you notice any scratch, verify it with your fingernail. </span></li>
<li><strong>Bearings:</strong> Clean and lubricate the bearings and rods as shown <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">this guide</a>. Despite cleaning and lubricating the smooth rods, it can happen that the axes' movement is still not smooth. In this case, please remove the bearings from the printer and lubricate them from the inside with a pea-sized amount of lubricant.</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">Screws on the back of the extruder (X-carriage-back) or the U-bolts, should NOT be overtightened, as this might deform the bearings and cause scratches on the smooth rods.</div>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Belt pulleys:</strong> any debris around the belt pulleys and belts should be immediately removed to ensure smooth operations. Also, check if the set screw of the belt pulley is firmly secured on the flat side of the motor shaft.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Idler screw</strong> (M3x40 with the spring on it) is not overtightened or too loose. Generally, the head of the screw, on the left side, should be about flush with the printed parts of the extruder. Details on the ideal tension of the idler screw can be found in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">Idler screw tension</a>.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Y- and X-axis belts:</strong> Both of the belts should be tight enough to sound like a low bass note when plucked. On the MK3/S/+, the belt status can be checked in the <em>LCD menu - Support - Belt status</em>. Recommended values are between 260 and 290. For details on adjusting the belt tension <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mk3-s_112380">please see this article</a>.</span></li>
</ul>
<h3>Flexible steel sheet</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">Acetone should be used sparingly for cleaning, and only be used on the Smooth steel sheet! <strong>Never use acetone on the Textured or Satin steel sheet</strong> as the surface will be permanently damaged.</div>
<div>All flexible steel sheets should be cleaned regularly to ensure adhesion, but the exact methods and washing solutions can differ depending on your type of sheet.</div>
<p>You can find more information on how to take care of your flexible steel sheet <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">in this article</a>.</p>
<h3>Fans</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ can spot if any of the fans stop spinning. However, that does not mean you should not check them during maintenance. Dust or plastic build-up can decrease their efficiency or even damage them.</p>
<p>A cotton swab can also be used to clean off dust and debris from the propeller or canned air will clear the dust. Tweezers can be used to take out any plastic strands. <strong>Hold the propeller</strong> <strong>of the fan to prevent it from spinning while cleaning it with canned air</strong>. Otherwise, it can get damaged. Clear away any debris that may be stuck and check that it can rotate freely. </p>
<h3>Extruder driver gear</h3>
<p>The MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+ printers are equipped with two Bondtech gears, made of hardened carbon steel. One is the <strong>pulley gear,</strong> secured on the extruder's motor shaft by a set screw. The other is the <strong>idler gear</strong>, which spins freely mounted on the idler door. <strong>If you have had a clog, they can also have collected residue grinding the filament</strong> which will, in turn, reduce their grabbing force on the filament. </p>
<p><strong>Regular cleaning and lubrication will:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Reduce wear and noise.</li>
<li>Increase the grabbing force on the filament.</li>
<li>Lower friction between the two pulley gears.</li>
<li>Protect against rust. </li>
</ul>
<p>If you're cleaning the gear inside the extruder without removing the extruder motor first, be sure to cover the PTFE tube to avoid any debris falling in. You can use a cotton swab - it will reliably cover the tube without damaging it). After you're done cleaning, give it a good puff of air to clear any remains, while the PTFE tube is still covered.</p>
<p>Open the Extruder idler door by releasing the screw(s) on the left side of your extruder.</p>
<ul>
<li>The <strong>MK3, and MK2.5</strong> extruders have <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">two idler screws</a>.</li>
<li>The <strong>MK3S/+ and MK2.5S</strong> extruders have <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">one idler screw</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>Both hobbed gears can have a build-up of filament shavings stuck in the grooves. Using a brass brush, clean what you can, then rotate the gear a few degrees and repeat until you do a full turn. They can also be cleaned one at a time using the acupuncture needle that comes with the printer.</p>
<p>The gears can be covered by rust. There is no need to worry. The gears themselves should not be damaged. Remove any problematic bits of filament and clean them with a brush. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bontechgear.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="Bondtech gears on an MK3" alt="bontech gears" width="498" height="350" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Make sure the Bondtech pulley gear is aligned with the path of the filament and secured on the flat side of the motor shaft. Also, check that the shaft of the idler gear goes through both "ears" of the Extruder-Idler-door plastic part and spins freely. You can find a more detailed guide in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176">Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)</a>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-300x290.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-413x400.jpg 413w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-768x743.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-620x600.jpg 620w" alt="" width="413" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Apply a tiny amount of the grease only to the teeth protruding outwards from the gear. <strong>Make sure that the lubricant never gets in contact with the filament teeth.</strong> Do not use oil-based lubricant as it may spread to unwanted sections, like where the filament is fed into the hotend.</p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/iddlegear.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/iddlegear-300x134.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/iddlegear-600x267.jpg 600w" alt="idlegear" width="618" height="275" loading="lazy" /></span></p>
<h3>Electronics</h3>
<p><strong>On the MK2/S and MK2.5/S</strong> - Check and reconnect the electrical connectors on the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/mini-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk2s-mk2-5-mk2-5s_2109">miniRAMBo board</a> <strong>after the first 50 hours of printing and then every 150-200 hours.</strong></p>
<p><strong>On the MK3/S/+</strong> - Check and reconnect the electrical connectors on the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/einsy-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2107">EinsyRAMBo board</a> <strong>every 600 - 800 hours of printing.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before touching the electrical connections, please make sure that the printer is off, and unplugged from the main power source.</div>
<ul>
<li>Check if there are any pinched or worn cables on the printer.</li>
<li>Open the electronics casing and blow compressed air in between the cables to get rid of dust.</li>
<li>Check the connection of all of the wires on the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/mini-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk2s-mk2-5-mk2-5s_2109">mini RAMBo board</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/einsy-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2107">EINSY RAMBo board</a>. Especially pay attention to the cables from the PSU (power source) and heaters. Make sure they are inserted all the way in and well-tightened.</li>
<li><span style="color: #000000;">Users of the <strong>Original Prusa i3 MK2/S </strong>and <strong>MK2.5/S</strong> need to pay special attention to the printer's power-input and heatbed's power connectors. Make sure both the connector and socket are not damaged in any way.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000;">Users of the <strong>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+</strong> should lightly tug the power and heatbed connectors. If any movement is felt, then re-tighten the screws.</span></li>
</ul>
<h3>Nozzle change</h3>
<p>Putting an exact number on how long a nozzle will last is very difficult, as it depends on how much you print, what types of filament you use, and how often you change between filament types. <strong>It is not the first thing you should look to if you are experiencing extrusion issues</strong>, but if the printer has been in use for more than 3-6 months and you are getting poor print quality, even after doing the mentioned maintenance, you may want to consider <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-mk3-5-s_2069">replacing the nozzle</a>.</p>
<h3>Firmware and software</h3>
<p>You should always be using the latest <strong>stable</strong> firmware version that we have published for your specific printer model. You can check the firmware version you have in the <em>LCD menu - Support</em>.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227"> See this article</a> to flash the fimware on your <strong>MK3/S/+</strong>.</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mk2-5s-mk2s_155126">See this article</a> to flash the firmware of your <strong>MK2/S or MK2.5/S</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>We also recommend using the latest version of our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">PrusaSlicer</a>, as it enables you to <strong>enjoy all the features of your printer</strong>. It even saves information about the printer model, nozzle diameter, and firmware version directly into the g-code file so that the printer can warn you if anything is out of date or incompatible.</p>


i3 Printer Regular Maintenance

<div><strong><img decoding="async" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-768x433.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-2048x1154.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="400" height="225" loading="lazy" /></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>Flexible materials</strong> are characterized by their <strong>excellent flexibility, tenacity, and chemical resistance</strong>. These materials are relatively uncommon, expensive, and suitable mostly for advanced users due to high print difficulty.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 <strong>°</strong>C - 245 <strong>°</strong>C (Depending on hardness and brand).</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C - 75 °C (Depending on the size of the object, bigger objects tend to need higher bed temperature).</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/flex/">Flexible filaments</a> are <strong>chemically and mechanically resistant</strong> materials. Individual layers hold strongly together and there is a great print surface adhesion (applies only for TPU and TPEE). Due to these qualities, it is necessary to print on a powder-coated sheet or use a special separator on the print surface (glue stick or Kapton tape). Flexible filaments are <strong>TPE</strong> (thermoplastic elastomer) material, however, they are distributed under various names, such as <strong>TPU, TPEE,</strong> etc. For example, TPU is basically a subtype of TPE material and the main difference between TPU and TPE is its <strong>shore hardness</strong>. TPU is usually around 60A-90A on the shore hardness scale. Generally speaking, <strong>the softer the filament is, the harder it is to print.</strong></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 296.533px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 278.133px;">
<td style="width: 98.794%; height: 278.133px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-600x209.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-800x279.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-300x105.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-768x268.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="279" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 98.794%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;"><em>Shore hardness scale, source: smooth-on.com</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Flexible filaments are usually very <strong>resistant to wear</strong> (scratching), <strong>stay flexible</strong> even in cold environments, and show <strong>great resistance against various solvents</strong>. Dimensions are stable, there is <strong>little to no shrinking or warping</strong>. Their <strong>tenacity and tensile strength are excellent:</strong> 3D-printed parts can withstand great stress before breaking. These properties make it suitable for printing spacing washers and other high-stress parts. With proper print settings, you could print stamps, RC tires, shoe soles, belts, etc.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Some very soft flex materials can bond to the bed too much and require the use of glue stick on the bed as a separator to prevent PEI damage. A good alternative is the <strong>Textured Spring-steel sheet</strong>.</div>
<p>Printing with flexible filaments is recommended <strong>only for experienced makers</strong>, considering various challenges during printing. We’re talking about frequent nozzle clogging, poor bridging and overhang characteristics, filament tangling into extruder gears, stringing, and oozing.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Flexibility &amp; tenacity</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ High print difficulty</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Dimensional stability (low shrinkage)</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Low printing speed</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Very bad bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High mechanical and chemical resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Difficult support removal</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;"> </td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;"> </td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Hygroscopic material (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of flexible filament is for printing <strong>spacing washers</strong> and other high-stress parts. With proper print settings, you could print <strong>stamps, RC tires, shoe soles, belts, etc.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>Important rules for successful printing with flexible filaments</strong></h3>
<ol>
<li><strong>Make sure the nozzle is unobstructed.</strong> If you’re not sure, do a cold pull to clean it completely.  </li>
<li><strong>Loosen the idler</strong> so the gears push the filament through only very gently. If they press too hard, the filament might get entangled in the gears.</li>
<li><strong>If you print on a smooth or satin sheet, apply a separation layer on it</strong> (glue stick or Kapton tape should work). The powder-coated TXT sheet does not need any separation layer - the print will stick just fine and can be easily removed without damaging the surface.</li>
<li><strong>Print slowly.</strong> The slower, the better. A typical speed for flexible filaments is usually 20 mm/s, the maximal recommended speed is somewhere between 30 and 40 mm/s. With higher speeds, you risk clogging the nozzle or tangling filament into the gears. For Original Prusa printers, we recommend using the “Semiflex or Flexfill 98A” or “Filatech FilaFlex40” profiles that have proper speed settings.</li>
<li><strong>Increase the nozzle temperature by 5 °C</strong>, this will lower filament resistance. Keep print cooling turned off.</li>
<li><strong>Keep the filament dry.</strong> Flexible filaments tend to absorb moisture and can be hard to print when wet.</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Flexibility and slicer settings</strong></p>
<p>Do you need <strong>better mechanical resistance?</strong> Set more infill and perimeters in PrusaSlicer. But if you need to <strong>retain the material flexibility</strong>, try to lower the number of perimeters and top/bottom layers. However, keep in mind that flexible filaments are not good at bridging and overhangs. A combination of thin layers and poor bridging can lead to ugly holes and protrusions.</p>
<p><strong>Retractions</strong></p>
<p>If you use a different program than <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/"><strong>PrusaSlicer</strong></a><strong>,</strong> try to adjust retractions a little bit. With lower retractions, there is a lower risk of clogging the nozzle or filament tangling. It’s alright to <strong>turn the retractions off</strong> completely and then try to raise them and watch the results. </p>
<p><strong>Printing supports</strong></p>
<p>Supports may need more space in Z-axis. Try to <strong>increase it to 0,3 mm</strong>. Supports that are closer to your model might stick to it too strongly and might be difficult to remove. Increase 'XY separation between an object and its support to at least 100%.</p>
<p><strong>Filament sensor</strong></p>
<p>Remember that automatic filament change might not work properly with flexible filaments.</p>
<p>Do you want to know more about printing with flexible filaments? Check <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-print-with-flexible-filament_29672/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">our blog article</strong></a>.</p>
<h3>Flexible filament</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL has a long path from the loading to the extruder nozzle. Due to its softness, Flexible filaments need special attention when being loaded in this printer. For that, follow the instructions in the video below:</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tCOMrs83SYs?si=0rFNQidUOubL_FJt" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 636px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-768x433.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-2048x1154.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1419" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Flex.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Flex-300x300.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Flex-400x400.png 400w" alt="" width="420" height="420" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Stamps, hoses, and tires</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Example of filament flexibility</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>RC tires</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>GoPro and phone protection sleeve</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Flexible materials

<p>In case there is a clog in your hotend, the filament might grind against the Bondtech-gears and be damaged enough so it can't be unloaded. It might snap right above the PTFE-tube when you try to pull it out by hand. In this case, the filament will need to be removed manually.</p>
<h3>Idler door open</h3>
<p>Open the idler door by removing the spring-loaded tension-screw(s), on the left side of the extruder.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 348px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 331px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-800x600.jpg 800w" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-534x400.jpg 534w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3S, MK3S+, MK3.5/S extruder (single idler screw)</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3 extruder (two idler screws)</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div> </div>
<h4>MMU2S/MMU3 idler door</h4>
<div>On the MMU, due to the "chimney" (IR-sensor-holder-mmu2s), you must remove the whole idler door by unscrewing the hinge- screw (red arrow) on the back. </div>
<div> </div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="401" height="301" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Where did it break?</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 311px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 294px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="399" height="299" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>Use Method 1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center; height: 17px;"><strong>Use Method 2</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>If the filament snapped right at the edge of the PTFE you should start with Method number 1, where you try to push the filament through the hotend. If there is 0.5-1cm sticking out of the filament, reaching the Bondtech filament-pulley starts with Method number 2, pulling it out with pliers.</p>
<h3>Setup</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 280º C. Wait for 3-5 minutes with the hotend at this temperature.</li>
<li>In the LCD menu in <em>Settings,</em> select <em>Disable steppers</em>.</li>
<li>Go to the  <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. Autoload,</em> so A<em>utoload</em> will not interfere.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">From now on the hotend will be hot! Avoid touching the lower part of the extruder (heaterblock + nozzle)!</div>
<h3>Method 1: Pushing the filament through the hotend</h3>
<p>Using another piece of filament, a thin (1-1,5 mm) Allen-wrench or same diameter wire, at least 4.5 cm long for the MK3(s) and 6 cm long for the MMU2s, you are often able to simply push it through.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="574" height="431" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<ol>
<li>Feed in from the top of the extruder your tool of choice, down past the Bondtech-gear, and on top of the stuck filament.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you are able to push the stuck filament down the PTFE-tube with an Allen-wrench, switch to using filament after about 1-2 cm. Some Allen-wrenches may only be long enough to get it started.</div>
<ol start="2">
<li>In case the filament starts being extruded from the bottom, Keep pushing the filament to clear the nozzle and see the color change.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Method 2: Pull out filament with pliers</h3>
<p>While hotend is heated to 280° C, firmly grab the filament with the needle-nose pliers that came with the printer. Slowly drag/feed the filament upwards, bit by bit, through the top of the extruder body, until it is completely removed from the PTFE-tube.</p>
<p>The filament can get stuck on geometry on the path up through where it is fed. It is also possible to pull it out of the idler door.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="627" height="470" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="tip-callout">After removing the filament, do a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)</a> to ensure you have fully cleared the clog.</div>
<h3>Nope, it is still stuck</h3>
<p>If none of these methods work, it means that the tip is not touching the part of the hotend that is heated and is stuck in the PTFE-tube. In this case, you must extract the PTFE-tube. Follow the guide linked below to resolve it.</p>
<div class="note-callout">You will probably need to heat the hotend to extract the PTFE-tube with the stuck filament.</div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3-mk2-5_17360">How to replace a PTFE tube (MK3/MK2.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)</a></li>
</ul>


Removing filament from extruder manually

<p>As there are ways of remotely transferring files and starting prints, an SD card or USB flash drive is the most common and reliable way to get your files to your machine. Though common and convenient, flash memory is not the most reliable in itself and your storage can be corrupted or fill up without any obvious signs. Therefore, we have put together a small guide on how to maintain, format, and purchase memory for your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<h3>Make sure your SD card is not locked!</h3>
<p>The SD card has a latch on the side. Before using your SD card, make sure that the latch is not set to the Locked position. In case it is locked, you will not be able to save files on the card, and the printer will not be able to open the SD card.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-300x293.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-410x400.jpg 410w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>Storage over 32 GB</h3>
<p>There is no upper size limit on compatible storage media, but <strong>the built-in Windows formatting tool does not support formatting storage media from a size of 32 GB or more to FAT32.</strong> It will only provide the option for exFAT, which is currently not supported by our printers. There are similar limitations under various versions of Apple's OSx, where a third-party application must be used to format it correctly.</p>
<p>To format such a drive you need a third-party application, like Rufus, FAT32 format, or EaseUS Partition Master. <strong>Be careful when using such programs</strong> so you do not <strong>accidentally format the wrong storage media</strong>, like your hard drive. However, 8-16 GB is more than enough for most use cases, as a G-code file rarely exceeds 100 MB.</p>
<h3>How do I format the USB drive/SD card?</h3>
<p>If your SD card or USB drive is full or if you can't read the content of the drive, but the drive is recognized by windows, most often all you need to do is to format the drive.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your USB drive or SD card does not even show up in your computer file explorer it is probably corrupted beyond repair, or at least beyond the scale of this article. If you get an error like the one in the picture below and it does not show up anywhere, off to google you go, but you might have to consider this card/USB drive lost and get a new one.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-800x317.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-768x304.jpg 768w" alt="" width="631" height="250"></p>
<h3>How to format on Windows</h3>
<p>On Windows, this is very simple. Locate your USB drive or SD card in my computer, right-click, and choose format.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-300x288.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-417x400.png 417w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-768x737.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-625x600.png 625w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>A new small window will pop up. Most of the time you can simply leave everything to default, but the most important thing is that the <strong>File System is set to FAT32.</strong> This and the Volume Label (Name of the drive) is the only thing you want to touch here. Click Start and your drive will be formatted in a matter of seconds.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Formatting any drive will delete all the content of the drive! Back up your stuff!</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-166x300.png 166w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-222x400.png 222w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04.png" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="note-callout">If the USB stick will not work even after this procedure, it is either broken or its "partitioning scheme" is set as GPT, which is incorrect. <strong>It must be set as MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong> For how to change this, please see <a href="https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/storage/disk-management/change-a-gpt-disk-into-an-mbr-disk">Microsoft's official documentation</a>.</div>
<h3>How to format on Mac</h3>
<p>On Mac, it is a few more steps, but still very accessible. Again, you want to choose <strong>FAT32 as your file system</strong>, but you also have the option of changing the "partitioning scheme", which <strong>should always be MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">This process deletes all content from the drive.</div>
<ol>
<li>Plug the USB drive or SD card into your Mac.</li>
<li>Go to <em>Applications -&gt; Utilities</em> and launch <em>Disk Utility.</em></li>
<li>Click on the icon in the top-left (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow</span>) and select "Show All Devices" from the drop-down menu.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>Right-click on the USB drive/SD card in the sidebar under "External". <em>Select the top entry for your drive, not a partition located below.</em></li>
<li>Select Erase in the Disk Utility-toolbar (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="6">
<li>Enter a name for the formatted disk.</li>
<li>Click on the Format menu and choose MS-DOS (FAT).</li>
<li>Make sure the Scheme is set to "Master Boot Record".</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-600x301.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-800x401.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-300x150.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-768x385.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-1536x771.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-2048x1027.png 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="251"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="9">
<li>Click Erase.</li>
<li>Your USB drive will now be erased and re-formatted correctly.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">If your SD card is not detected by the printer at all, be sure to check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-card-not-working_2095">SD card not working</a> for further information.</div>

SD cards and USB drives

<div><strong><img decoding="async" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-400x400.png 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-600x600.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-300x300.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-768x768.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-1536x1536.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-2048x2048.png 2048w" alt="" width="225" height="225" loading="lazy" /></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div>Polycarbonate (PC) is a technical material with <strong>great tenacity, tensile strength, and heat resistance</strong>. However, it’s very hard to print, therefore suitable mainly for advanced users. However, this doesn't apply to our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-pc-blend-urban-grey-970g/"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>, which is significantly easier to print compared to other polycarbonates.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;"> </div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 275 °C</div>
<div> </div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 110 °C for the first layer, 115 °C for other layers</div>
<div> </div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Powder-coated TXT or satin sheet with a glue stick will provide the best adhesion. Note that while the powder-coated satin sheet works perfectly without a glue stick, it is recommended to use a separation layer to prevent surface wear.</div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><strong>Description</strong></h3>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Polycarbonates (PC)</strong> are a group of polymers excelling in their <strong>tenacity, tensile strength, and temperature resistance.</strong> Outside of the 3D printing world, they are used for example for making CDs, protective glasses and shields, or car headlight covers.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Pure polycarbonate</strong> is not suitable for 3D printing because of its bad surface adhesion and significant thermal expansion. Prints tend to deform and crack. For this reason, various additives are usually added to improve printability. The result of our own development is the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-pc-blend-urban-grey-970g/"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a><strong>.</strong> It has relatively <strong>great printability</strong> and is suitable for making <strong>technical parts</strong> with high mechanical and temperature resistance.</p>
<div class="warning-callout" style="text-align: left;"><strong>We do not suggest using PC on a smooth PEI sheet.</strong> Its great adhesion might damage the surface! If you have to, use the Gluestick as a separation layer.</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">The main disadvantage of most polycarbonates is that they’re extremely hygroscopic (they absorb moisture). They should be stored in airtight containers with desiccant (silica gel) and should be dried in the oven prior to printing.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Some manufacturers counter this with various additives, for example, <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-pc-blend-urban-grey-970g/"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a> tends to absorb moisture <strong>much less than other polycarbonates</strong>. Because of its high-temperature resistance, PC is a suitable material for printer fan shrouds.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Polycarbonate requires <strong>some experience</strong> to print properly. If you are a beginner, consider experimenting with easier materials like <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/pla_2062"><strong>PLA</strong></a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059"><strong>PETG</strong></a> first.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High-temperature resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Pure polycarbonate is highly hygroscopic</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High impact tenacity and tensile strength</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ High nozzle and bed temperature</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Pure polycarbonate is transparent</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ High warping, especially with large models</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Good electric insulation properties</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Moderate odor during printing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;"> </td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Application of a separation layer is recommended</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;"> </td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ High price</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PC is for printing technical parts requiring great heat and mechanical resistance.</p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Consider using an enclosure</strong></p>
<p>Printing polycarbonate is often tricky, as it tends to warp a lot, even with the additives. Printing inside an enclosure helps. Polycarbonate needs to be printed on a special surface, for example, a powder-coated sheet with a glue stick, PEI, or Build-tak. For small to medium objects, you can increase infill to &gt;25% and add more top layers (4 or more) for a stronger print. However, this is not recommended for large prints, where we recommend reducing this.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p>
</div>
<p><strong>Use a Skirt in PrusaSlicer</strong></p>
<p>If you don’t have a printer enclosure, we suggest placing the object in the middle of the printing platform and setting the skirt value as high as possible. This will make a microclimate with a slightly higher temperature around the model and increase your chances for a successful print.</p>
<p><strong>Add Brim around small objects</strong></p>
<p>You should use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969"><strong>Brim function</strong></a> for printing parts with a small contact area with the print surface.</p>
<p><strong>Try to avoid warping</strong></p>
<p><strong>Polycarbonate is not suitable for printing large objects covering the whole sheet.</strong> Prints with round edges warp less than those with sharp edges (this is true for any type of filament). Warping is also affected by infill density and the number of <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/layers-and-perimeters_1748"><strong>perimeters</strong></a>. Denser infill (and more material inside the object in general) increases warping - and a risk of separation from the print surface. A lesser number of perimeters increases the chances of a successful print of large polycarbonate models.</p>
<p><strong>Do not print in cold areas</strong></p>
<p>In some cases, the printer might show a “Bed thermal runaway” error. This typically occurs with ambient temperatures below 18 °C when the printer cannot hold the high heatbed temperature.</p>
<p><strong>Careful print preparation is a key</strong></p>
<p>Prusament PC Blend is easy to print compared to other polycarbonates. Print preparation is also quite easy. Recommended nozzle and bed temperatures are 275±10 °C and 110 ±10 °C. PC Blend is printable on the powder-coated TXT sheet if you apply glue stick on it. If you print without a glue separation layer, you risk damaging the print sheet. This issue was moderated with the <strong>powder-coated satin sheet.</strong> This surface doesn't need any separation layer if you print with PC Blend occasionally. If you print with polycarbonate regularly, we still suggest using glue stick to keep your satin sheet in the best shape possible.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can see how to prepare each steel sheet for your filament in our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">Material table</a>.</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Pulley linear bearings</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Fan shroud</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Water angle valve lever</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Air filter cover</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Battery pack</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Hinges</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Polycarbonate (PC)

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div><strong>PLA</strong> is one of the <strong>easiest materials to print.</strong> It is inexpensive and suitable (not only) for beginners. It’s usually used for printing detailed models, figures, and quick prototypes that don’t require high mechanical, chemical, or temperature resistance.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215 °C for the first layer, 210 °C for other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PLA</strong></a> (Polylactic acid) is a plant-based polyester. <strong>PLA does not require a heated bed</strong>, can be printed fast and with low temperatures (melting point is somewhere around 175 °C). With PLA you can print both small, detailed models and large objects filling almost the entire print volume. Unlike some other filaments, <strong>PLA is not prone to significant warping</strong>. It is good for quick prototyping and creation of nice, low-cost models: concepts, prototypes, simple toys, jewelry, statues, etc. It is not suitable for technical and outdoor use. It doesn’t resist high temperatures (it gets soft and deform at temperatures over 60 °C), degrades under UV light and its mechanical resistance is also inferior - it breaks by the layers or into shards upon impact. Layer adhesion is weaker compared to other materials. Sanding PLA is possible with sandpaper but needs water cooling (wet sanding).</p>
<p>Various sources claim that <strong>PLA is biologically degradable</strong>. The material is made from corn, sugar cane, or sugar beet and indeed can be decomposed, but only in specialized composting facilities where temperatures exceed 80 °C. It is definitely <strong>not a good idea</strong> to throw the <strong>PLA</strong> waste into your garden compost - the material will not disintegrate, plus you will contaminate the soil with plastic microparticles.</p>
<p>Although the <strong>PLA</strong> material itself is <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament material) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layers/grooves that can support bacterial growth. If you still want 3D printed dishes or food containers, we suggest applying a <strong>special layer that seals the surface</strong> (food-safe coating) and printing with a stainless steel nozzle.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low price</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Brittle and inflexible</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print, suitable for beginners</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Low UV and temperature resistance</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good detail and low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Difficult post-processing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Suitable for large models</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PLA is for printing concept models, prototypes, or low-wear toys.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Consider using a smooth PEI sheet</strong></p>
<p>If you print with PLA on our Original Prusa i3 printers, <strong>you can print on either a smooth, powder-coated TXT or powder-coated satin sheet.</strong> However, the smooth sheet works better for printing parts that have a small contact area with the print surface. With a powder-coated sheet, you should move your live-Z lower: Filament must fill in the sheet texture. However, you need to be careful and not move the nozzle too low or you will damage your sheet! <strong>Info for different printer users:</strong> PLA is printable not only on PEI surface, but also on glass, Kapton tape, or using a glue stick.</p>
<p><strong>Try to adjust retractions for better results</strong></p>
<p>PLA is sometimes prone to stringing and oozing - this can be reduced with proper retraction settings.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
<div class="c-message__message_blocks c-message__message_blocks--rich_text">
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<div class="p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper--first">
<div class="p-rich_text_block" dir="auto">
<div class="p-rich_text_section"><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">Chemical smoothing</a> of PLA is possible only in <strong>laboratory conditions</strong> - PLA can be dissolved in <strong>chloroform, hot benzene, or tetrahydrofuran.</strong> These are dangerous organic solvents that should be handled only by skilled lab technicians. Some of the PLA filaments can be also partially dissolved and <strong>glued with acetone</strong> (or you can simply glue it with superglue).</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Static models</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases, cups, and other tabletop models</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Audio volume knob and other electronic parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="399" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ABS</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for printing mechanically stressed parts</strong>, thanks to its high tenacity and temperature resistance. Its surface can be smoothed with <strong>acetone</strong>. The main disadvantage is significant warping and toxic fumes.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 255 °C&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 100 °C, you can set the bed temperature between 80 to 110 °C depending on the size of an object (larger object means higher temperature).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/asa-abs/"><strong>ABS</strong></a> (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is basically a <strong>predecessor of</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809"><strong>ASA</strong></a>. ABS is generally used for making inexpensive, sturdy mechanical parts (LEGO bricks, car parts, cellphone parts, etc.). The material is <strong>tenacious and temperature resistant</strong> - this makes it suitable for engineering parts, etc. Compared to ASA, there is slightly worse UV resistance and more significant warping and odor during printing. Note that ABS parts used outdoor turn yellowish and more brittle over time.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ABS printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High tenacity &amp; mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Requires printer enclosure</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy postprocessing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of ABS is for printing cheap technical parts requiring good heat and mechanical resistance or parts that need to be acetone smoothed.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated at least up to 100 °C, <strong>the printer should be inside an enclosure</strong> with a higher ambient temperature.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p></div>
<p>If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will keep the model slightly warmer and mitigate the warping. Printing inside an enclosure can lead to deformation of the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/">fan shroud</a> and other plastic parts. This can affect the printer's functionality. In case your plastic parts tend to deform, we recommend printing them from a more temperature resistant material, for example <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>.</p>
<p><strong>Shrinkage</strong></p>
<p>You should keep in mind that <strong>ABS-printed parts tend to shrink slightly</strong> after cooldown. We recommend printing a testing object and comparing it with a source model. The shrinkage factor of this material is somewhere around 1-2%.</p>
<p><strong>Removing prints</strong></p>
<p>When removing prints with a large surface area, it is very important to let the part and sheet cool properly. <strong>You may have to assist the process using a spatula.</strong> Be gentle when flexing the sheet and removing the print as the smooth PEI foil can tear.</p>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p>If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118">HIPS</a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ABS and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<p>ABS can be sanded wet and dry and smoothed with acetone fumes, just like ASA (see more in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>)</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 319px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lego bricks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed model</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>Creating a brand new 3D model from scratch can be a little daunting if you have no prior experience. However, at some point, you will probably run out of <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/where-can-you-get-3d-models_2179">pre-made 3D models to download and print</a> or not find exactly what you need. Time to give 3D modeling a go.</p>
<p>There are various ways of getting into 3D modeling. You will, obviously, need a 3D modeling software and learn the basics. Rest assured that there are less complicated and free options for modeling 3D instead, instead of jumping right into the deep end of CAD design other top-tier commercial solutions.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For inspiration, check out <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/">Prusaprinters.org</a>, our very own universe of 3D models made by our awesome community!</div>
<h3>Modeling programs for beginners</h3>
<p><strong>TinkerCad</strong> (<a href="https://www.tinkercad.com">https://www.tinkercad.com</a>): The easiest way to quickly create your own models. TinkerCad is an online editor (no installation required) allowing you to create 3D models directly in a browser window. It is free, easy to operate, and you will even find basic video tutorials. So after a few minutes of tinkering, you will be ready to create your first 3D object.&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Fusion 360</strong> (<a href="https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview">https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview</a>): Another popular tool for creating models. Fusion 360 is available for PC, Mac, and iOS (iPad). It is arguably more complex than Tinkercad; however, the official website provides a quick guide along with detailed video tutorials, making it also an excellent choice for novice enthusiasts.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">We have a tutorial on <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/parametric-modeling-in-fusion360_37411/">parametric modeling using Fusion360 on our blog</a>!</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/screen-shot-2018-01-03-at-14-18-59.png"></p>
<h3>Other modeling programs&nbsp;</h3>
<p>There is a great deal of 3D modeling programs out there, both free and paid. Your choice depends mostly on your personal taste and preferences. If you feel like TinkerCad and Fusion 360 lack some features or functions, you should research the following software:</p>
<ul>
<li>OpenSCAD (free)</li>
<li>DesignSpark Mechanical</li>
<li>SketchUp</li>
<li>Blender (free)</li>
<li>Maya</li>
<li>3DS Max</li>
<li>FreeCAD (free)</li>
</ul>


Creating your own 3D models

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-600x337.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-800x449.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-300x168.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-768x431.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="300" height="168"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>Polyamide</strong> (Nylon) is a versatile material with <strong>excellent thermal and mechanical resistance.</strong> It is suitable for printing functional technical parts with high temperature and mechanical resistance requirements. However, it’s very hard to print and therefore recommended for experienced users only.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 285 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 110 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Special PA Nylon sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><strong>Polyamide is an extremely resilient material</strong>, resistant to abrasion, suitable especially for technical parts. It has excellent layer adhesion. In large volumes, it has great mechanical resistance, while in thin layers it remains flexible. Its coefficient of friction is low, <strong>melting temperature is high. However, polyamide is hygroscopic</strong>, so it is necessary to keep it dry (airtight with desiccant). Improper storage can lead it to absorb water weighing up to 10% of filament weight. Polyamides emit a strong odor with potentially dangerous ultrafine particles (UFPs) so printing in a well-ventilated room or in an enclosure is a must.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a>&nbsp;</p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Great mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Prone to warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Tough in large volumes, flexible in thin layers</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Highly hygroscopic material</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High-temperature resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of polyamide is for printing technical parts requiring <strong>great heat, chemical, and mechanical resistance.</strong> Pure polyamide is also good for making a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">cold pull cleaning</a>.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Keep the filament dry</strong></p>
<p>Dry the filament before printing, at least 4 hours with a temperature below 90 °C. Moist polyamide filament makes bubbles, which leads to uneven layers and an ugly surface.</p>
<p><strong>Print it in high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>Print settings are usually quite similar to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812">PC</a> - with nozzle temperature around 285 °C. Apart from moisture issues, <strong>the main disadvantage of pure polyamide is warping</strong>. <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/mmu2s-printer-enclosure_30215/">High ambient temperature (enclosure)</a> helps a lot. However, you can get polyamides filled with carbon fibers, like our Prusament PA11 Carbon Fiber. These filaments don't warp by far as much as the unaltered versions and can be printed without an enclosure.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 50px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 32px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 32px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Gears</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Bendable objects</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Polyamide (Nylon)

<p>PrusaSlicer separates the printer connection settings from the Printer profile into a <strong>Physical printer</strong> profile.</p>
<p>You can create a new Physical profile by clicking <em><strong>Add printer</strong></em> in the printer profile select box or by clicking the cog icon and picking <strong><em>Add physical printer</em></strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-600x181.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-800x241.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-300x90.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-768x231.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-1536x463.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-2048x617.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="503" height="152" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>In the Physical printer dialog, you can name the printer and assign it one <strong>or more</strong> printer profiles. If you're using, for example, the MMU2S upgrade, you only have to set one physical printer, but you can have both Single mode and MMU profiles linked to it.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-800x449.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-300x168.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-768x431.png 768w" alt="" width="561" height="315" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>If you have a Physical printer with network info filled out selected as your current printer, you can send generated G-codes directly to your device.</p>
<h3>PrusaConnect</h3>
<p>If you'd like to send files to your printer via PrusaConnect, add a Physical printer or Edit an existing one.</p>
<p>Select <em><strong>PrusaConnect</strong></em> from the select box as the <em><strong>Host</strong></em><strong> type</strong><em>.</em> The hostname/IP will be automatically filled, you don't have to change it.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/a6e53887e520db647ad830515ac5fb8a.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)" alt="" width="1121" height="711" /></p>
<p>To find your API key, go to PrusaConnect, select the printer you want to send the files to, go to the <em><strong>Settings </strong></em>tab and scroll down to he <em><strong>API keys </strong></em>section. Copy <em><strong>PrusaConnect API key</strong></em> to the Physical printer window and confirm with OK.</p>
<p><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/6b5c2148f1bc36255fed667a753a2c50_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)" alt="" width="1600" height="1054" /></strong></p>


Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)

<div class="warning-callout">This guide is for the E3D V6 Hotend on the MK-series. <strong>NOT FOR THE PRUSA MINI!</strong></div>
<p>You can find the complete <a href="https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017013257-V6-Assembly-Guide-Edition-2">E3Ds assembly manual of the V6 hotend</a>, which can be followed backward for disassembly. <strong>This is the stock hotend on an Original Prusa MK3S/MK2.5S/MK2S.</strong> However, as the manual works with brand new parts, it does not consider the changes that happen when being heated repeatedly to hundreds of degrees, again and again. Metal contracts and expands and thermal paste will turn crusty over time. Therefore there are some changes to the procedure when disassembling after a long time of use. </p>
<div class="note-callout">To extract the hotend follow this simple guide for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">MK3S/MK2,5S/MMU2S</a>, and for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3-mk2-5_17360">MK3/MK2.5</a>.</div>
<h3>Disassembly</h3>
<p>The <a href="https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017013257-V6-Assembly-Guide-Edition-2">assembly manual for the V6</a> is still optimal for most of this procedure, with a few exceptions. Moving backward, you are first removing the nozzle (at 280 °C) to release the heatbreak. However, this makes it harder to remove the heatbreak from the heat sink in later steps.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For replacing certain parts of the V6 hotend, like heatsink, heater block, thermistor, etc. you can follow our guide <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heaterblock-heatsink-mk3-mk2-5_14944">How to replace a heatbreak/heaterblock/heatsink (MK3/MK2.5)</a>.</div>
<p>As the heatbreak can be quite fragile, and its threads me be damaged if you try to grip it with pliers, <strong>we recommend that you unscrew the heatsink from the heatbreak, before removing the nozzle,</strong> which locks the heatbreak in place. A Heatbreak can still bend and break so do not unscrew it at an angle. A bend will create a whole range of printing issues.</p>
<p>After you have unscrewed the heat sink from the heatbreak, proceed with the E3Ds assembly manual, by heating the block and unscrewing the nozzle.</p>
<h3>Too late, it is already stuck!</h3>
<p>Follow this procedure to resolve the issue.</p>
<ol>
<li>Without any heat, manually screw your nozzle into its threaded hole in the heater block. </li>
<li>Screw it all the way in, then loosen it back a full turn (as described in step 3 of the E3D V6 Hotend assembly) creating a gap of about 1mm between nozzle and block.</li>
<li>Then screw the heatbreak, with the attached heatsink, into the heatblock from the other side as far as it will go.</li>
<li>Tighten the nozzle with a pair of pliers and you now have a better handle. You can also grab this with pliers for some leverage when unscrewing the stuck heatsink.</li>
</ol>


Hotend disassembly & heatbreak stuck in the heatsink

<p>The Bondtech gears have a lot of pulling force. They might seem secure, but unless properly tightened, <strong>on the flat side of the motor's shaft,</strong> they can come loose and remain stationary around the spinning shaft. This might only be intermittent at first, acting like under extrusion, but the gear will continue to loosen and/or slide out of alignment with the filament path.</p>
<h3>Typical issue (false clog)</h3>
<p>This might appear as a clog at first, but you can see the motor axle rotating fully, and there is no clicking sound, which is common during a hotend clog. The filament is not moving at all and when pulled out, it does not look like it has been ground by the gear, hence the name "false or ghost clog".</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi-300x265.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi-453x400.jpg 453w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi-768x678.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi-680x600.jpg 680w" alt="" width="451" height="398" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="tip-callout" style="text-align: center;">It can be helpful to draw a line on the radius of the axle, to see if it spins or not.</div>
<h3>Accessing the Bondtech gear</h3>
<p>Start by getting out your 1,5 mm and 2.5 mm Allen keys. Using the 2.5 mm Allen key, release the spring-tensioned idler-screw(s) completely and open the idler door. It is 1 on the Original Prusa MK3S &amp; MK3S+ (left picture) and two on the Original Prusa MK3 (right picture). The MMU2S extruder has one screw, but some additional parts.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 99.7482%; height: 376px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 454px;">
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 358px; vertical-align: bottom;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="533" height="400" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 358px; vertical-align: bottom;"><em><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-534x400.jpg 534w" alt="" width="533" height="400" loading="lazy" /></em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3S &amp; MK3S+ / MK3.5</em></td>
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3 (Non S/+-upgrade)</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 436px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 400px;">
<td style="width: 100%; text-align: center; height: 400px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="533" height="400" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 100%; height: 36px;">
<p> <strong>On the Original Prusa MMU2S / MMU3, you must remove the whole idler door (<span style="color: #3598db;">blue arrows</span>), by removing</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>the screw acting as its hinge (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">red arrow</span>).</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">On the Original Prusa MK3S, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_28536#30456">remove the single screw on the top of the extruder</a> to remove the fil. sensor cover to open the idler door all the way.</div>
<h3>Rotating the motor's shaft</h3>
<p>You will now have access to the Bondtech gears. With the idler door open, we will check if the Bondtech gear is secured on the <strong>flat side of the motor shaft and if the gear is out of alignment with the filament path.</strong> We do not recommend moving the motor shaft by hand. The best is to start rotation from the LCD menu:</p>
<ul>
<li>Preheat the nozzle from the <em>LCD-menu -&gt; Setting -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Nozzle -&gt; 180 °C.</em> The firmware will not let you manually move the extruder motor unless heated to at least 175 °C.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The nozzle is now hot!</strong> Be careful so you do not burn yourself.</div>
<ul>
<li>Navigate the LCD menu to <em>Settings -&gt; Move axis -&gt; Extruder</em>, and you can now spin the extruder motor, with the knob on the LCD panel. </li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-300x290.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-413x400.jpg 413w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-768x743.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-620x600.jpg 620w" alt="" width="465" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Make sure the flat side of the motor shaft is visible (<span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>red lines</strong></span>), aligned with the black set-screw on the pulley (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span>), and that pulley grooves are aligned with the filament (<span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>green line</strong></span>).</p>
<div class="warning-callout">The set-screw may be stuck due to rust or Loctite. If you have to use a lot of force you may risk stripping the head of the screw. Consult with our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">technical support</a> before you use excessive force.</div>
<p>You can use a piece of filament, inserted from the top (<span style="color: #3598db;"><strong>blue arrow</strong>)</span>, to check alignment. Then use the 1.5 mm Allen wrench or your nail to move the Bondtech gear into position, before securing the set screw.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="450" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Clean Bondtech gear</h3>
<p>Open the Extruder idler. You can see how to do it in our assembly manuals, section <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_28536#29848">Extruder idler parts preparation</a>, in the E-axis assembly chapter. Clear any left-over filament, rust, or dust with a brush and inspect both gears.</p>
<p>It is recommended to use a <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/">Prusa Lubricant</a> or a PTFE-based grease. However, be careful not to overuse it, as it tends to accumulate dust particles over time. This procedure should be done roughly every 3-6 months, depending on how often you are using the printer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/cleaning-Bondtech-gear.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="267" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Put the lubricant on the Bondtech extruder gear teeth. <strong>Apply it only to the toothed part</strong> as seen in the right photo above. If you apply it to the whole gear, it will be unable to grab filament properly!</p>
<p>You can also inspect the needle bearings that are inside and clean them with a brush. However, these do not need any special care, just make sure that both of them are properly inserted.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Bondtech-need-bearings.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="174" loading="lazy" /></p>

Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)

<p>Printer firmware update (3.7.2)</p>
<ul>
<li>Protection against multiple power panics (for MK3)</li>
<li>Autonomous fan self-test</li>
<li>Incorrect firmware flashing protection</li>
<li>Min. temp safety trigger</li>
<li>Enforced fan check</li>
<li>Filament runout delay fix</li>
<li>Extruder position after fan error fix</li>
<li>Text format correction on Live adjust Z screen</li>
<li>Display target temperature at PID calibration screen</li>
</ul>
<p>MMU2S Unit firmware update (v1.0.5)</p>
<ul>
<li>This fw version improves mmu2 unit function when used with MK3S and MK2.5S printers with IR sensor. Especially T-code filament loading phase reliability was improved. It is now possible to resume print after MMU load fail detected by printer also by MMU button.</li>
</ul>


3.7.2 (1.0.5)

<ul>
<li>Steel sheet profiles (<a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/firmware-3-8-0-final-for-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">more info about settings</a>)</li>
<li>Nozzle diameter setup</li>
<li>Preliminary checks</li>
<li>Firmware onscreen notification</li>
<li>Revised sound warnings</li>
<li>Heatbed noise at 110 V (60 Hz)</li>
<li>Crash detection fixes</li>
<li>Addition of the ASA material</li>
</ul>


3.8.0

<ul>
<li>Changes regarding firmware version 3.8.0</li>
</ul>


2.61

<ul>
<li>First layer calibration using multiple filament types (PLA, PET, ASA, ABS, HIPS, PP, FLEX)</li>
<li>Repeated First layer calibration settings added</li>
<li>Fan error on Octoprint bug fixed</li>
<li>Fixed bug with the incorrect mode displayed on MK2.5/S after reset</li>
<li>New Live Adjust Z shortcut (Long press of the rotation knob - available only between 0-2 mm of print height)</li>
<li>Move Z shortcut adjustment - not possible during the print)</li>
<li>Translations corrections</li>
<li>Other bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.8.1

<p><strong>This is a major release, please, update!</strong>Stats: 409 commits, 108 pull requests, 66 closed issues, cooperation with 14 developers</p>
<ul>
<li>Linear Advance 1.5</li>
<li>Automatic E-jerk conversion</li>
<li>New G-code files sorting</li>
<li>Show current Z offset in reset dialog before first layer calibration</li>
<li>Unknown Z coordinate displayed</li>
<li>Safer moves in Z-axis, if the position is unknown</li>
<li>Heating disabled during MBL</li>
<li>MINTEMP error differentiated</li>
<li>Flickering “Statistics” screen fixed</li>
<li>Tone timer re-enabled</li>
<li>Belt test improvements</li>
<li>Decoupling XYZ relative and E relative</li>
</ul>


3.9.0

<div class="p-rich_text_section">Reflects changes introduced in FW 3.9.0:</div>
<ul>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">First layer calibration chapter updated</li>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">Linear Advance chapter updated</li>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">Display brightness chapter added</li>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">LCD menu structure updated</li>
<li class="p-rich_text_section">MINTEMP information updated</li>
</ul>


2.62

<ul>
<li>Major improvements to LA15</li>
<li>Support for parts from selected vendors</li>
<li>PC Blend preheat added</li>
<li>Stack corruption fixed</li>
<li>Octoprint causing M112 fixed</li>
</ul>


3.9.1

<ul>
<li>Redesigned XYZ calibration, which is now more precise</li>
<li>Support for MK2.5/MK2.5S with SuperPINDA</li>
</ul>


3.9.3

<ul>
<li>New "Print from SD" menu</li>
<li>"Time Remaining" function improved</li>
<li>Community translations</li>
<li>Faster and quieter XYZ calibration</li>
<li>PVB preheat preset</li>
<li>Satin sheet profiles</li>
<li>G-code "M204 T" implemented</li>
<li>Improved filament troubleshooting</li>
<li>Support for 0.8mm nozzles</li>
<li>Optimizations for print hosts (e.g. Octoprint)</li>
<li>Optimized code size and RAM usage</li>
<li>File listing adjusted for remote printing software</li>
<li>Z offset during M600 reverted</li>
<li>Factory reset menu extended</li>
</ul>


3.10.0

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<ul>
<li>New debugging functions &amp; crash analysis tools</li>
<li>A rare memory bug debugged and fixed</li>
<li>Long-Press action fixed</li>
<li>Move auto reporting out of the temperature ISR</li>
<li>Uint8_t used consistently for the block buffer's index</li>
<li>Arduino boards definition updated</li>
<li>Build script updated</li>
<li>Algorithm for reading SN in EEPROM improved</li>
<li>Spanish translation fixed</li>
<li>Firmware version parsing removed</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.10.1

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul>
<li>New community translations</li>
<li>Added LCD support for `äöüß` and `μ`</li>
<li>SN check fixed</li>
<li>Changes to on-screen messages</li>
<li>Known issue (LCD glitches)</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

3.11.0

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0


<ul>
<li>New thermal model protection</li>



<li>Nozzle change menu</li>



<li>NylonPA sheet profile added</li>



<li>Arc interpolation features G2/G3</li>



<li>UI improvements and fixes</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


3.12.0


<ul>
<li>Max Z-coordinate during Nozzle Change</li>



<li>Beeping after Factory reset fixed</li>



<li>Message selection fix</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.12.1


<ul>
<li>Self Test message fixed</li>



<li>FLC procedure updated</li>



<li>List of pull requests</li>
</ul>


3.12.2


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>Features by the Prusa community
<ul>
<li>Meatpack support</li>



<li>Do not preheat the heatbed on load/unload</li>



<li>Features and translations</li>
</ul>
</li>



<li>Support for G-Code M850</li>



<li>First Layer Calibration - nozzle diameter</li>



<li>PrusaLink improvements</li>



<li>Build environment with cmake</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


3.13.0


<ul>
<li>XYZ calibration fixed</li>
</ul>


3.13.1


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>Fixed Ghost layer shifts</li>



<li>Improved XYZ calibration</li>
</ul>


3.13.3


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>


2.7.4


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0


<ul>
<li>PrusaLink and Prusa Connect updates</li>



<li>PowerPanic improvements</li>



<li>Mesh Bed Leveling (MBL) improvements</li>



<li>New / Improved G-codes</li>



<li>User Interface updates</li>



<li>Community features</li>



<li>Firmware development changes</li>
</ul>


3.14.0


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa i3 MK2.5S

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