MK3.5S

<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade <br /></strong></p>
<p>The current lead time is <strong>1-2 weeks </strong>for both xLCD versions. </p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa CORE One shipping table</h3>
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<h4>  Order date</h4>
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<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Estimated shipping</h4>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 33px;">
<p>  19.11.2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 33px;">
<p>from 31.1.2025</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  20.11.2024</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 7 (starts February 10, 2025)</p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  21.11.2024</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 7 (starts February 10, 2025)</p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  22.11.2024</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 8 (starts February 17, 2025)</p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  23.11.2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 8 (starts February 17, 2025)</p>
</td>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>  24.11.2024</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 8 (starts February 17, 2025)</p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W48 2024 - from November 25, 2024 </p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 9 (starts February 24, 2025)</p>
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<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W49 2024 - from December 2, 2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 10 (starts March 3, 2025) </p>
</td>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W50 2024 - from December 9, 2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 11 (starts March 10, 2025)</p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W51 2024 - from December 16, 2024</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 11 (starts March 10, 2025)</p>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W52 2024 -  from December 23, 2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 12 (starts March 17, 2025)</p>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>W1 2025 - from December 30, 2024</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>from week 12 (starts March 17, 2025)</p>
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<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W2 2025 - from January 6, 2025</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 13 (starts March 24, 2025)</p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W3 2025 - from January 13, 2025</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 13 (starts March 24, 2025)</p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W4 2025 - from January 20, 2025</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 13 (starts March 24, 2025)</p>
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<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>W5 2025 - from January 27, 2025</p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>from week 14 (starts March 31, 2025)</p>
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<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: January 28th, 2025 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p></p>
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<h4>Product</h4>
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<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>3-4 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/S+ to MK3.5S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1 week</p>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S kit</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL<br /></strong>(Prusa XL Assembled 5-toolhead 3D Printer)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks<br /><strong>(2-3 weeks)</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit<br />(for MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)<br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />(for MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3S+ &amp; MK3.5/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p>1-2 week</p>
</td>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MINI Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK Enclosure </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p>1-2 weeks</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

Infill patterns

<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero. </strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value. </strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" loading="lazy" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high. </strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Having the nozzle too low can cause the nozzle to damage your steel sheet. This is not covered by <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/warranty_2288">Warranty</a>.</div>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w" /></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet! </strong>For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg" /></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the <strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<div class="warning-callout">This is an&nbsp;<strong>advanced calibration</strong>, recommended only to&nbsp;<strong>experienced users</strong>.</div>
<p>The Extrusion Multiplier allows the fine-tuning of the extrusion flow rate - simply described as&nbsp;<strong>how much filament comes out of the nozzle</strong>. In other words, the&nbsp;<strong>Extrusion Multiplier</strong>&nbsp;setting in PrusaSlicer and the&nbsp;<strong>Flow rate</strong>&nbsp;setting in printer firmware are two ways to adjust the same thing, however, adjusting one of those two settings will not influence the value of the other.</p>
<p><strong>This procedure is not necessary with a new printer coming from the factory</strong>, but rather applies for specific applications and filaments. The ideal value is different for every type of material and every color. It can even differ from spool to spool. Bear this in mind if you change type and brand of filament often or use cheap no-name brands.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Total flow rate = <strong>Flow multiplier</strong> in firmware (M221) x <strong>Extrusion multiplier</strong> in PrusaSlicer. For those interested in diving deeper, PrusaSlicer uses the same <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Flow math as Slic3r</a>.</div>
<h3><strong>How to spot an issue</strong></h3>
<p>This calibration is used to fix two common problems:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Overextrusion</strong> - Too much material is extruded (flow is too high). It causes scarring of bottom layers and unnecessary material buildup on top layers.</li>
<li><strong>Minor under extrusion</strong>&nbsp;- Not enough material is extruded (flow is too low). It causes small gaps that appear between layer lines or perimeters.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-600x282.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-800x376.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-300x141.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-768x361.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-1536x721.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="852" height="400"></p>
<p><strong>Overextrusion</strong> is a common problem with many filament brands. It's especially problematic when you're trying to glue two parts of the model. <strong>If the top layer is over extruded, you'll end up with an uneven surface that will prevent a seamless connection between the two pieces.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>How to do the calibration</strong></h3>
<p>In PrusaSlicer, navigate to <span class="key">Filament Settings</span> and look for Extrusion Multiplier. The default setting (for PLA) is 1, this value represents a percentage, 1 = 100%, 0.95 = 95% etc. Usually, the adjusted values can be between 0.9 and 1.1. To adjust it, simply rewrite the value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 200px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/image-2019-1-15-12-55-6.png" data-hd-height="200px"></p>
<p>In the printer menu, during a print, go to the Tune menu and then choose Flow. Again, the usual values can range between 90 and 110, although that does not mean you can't go above or below that.</p>
<h4>Which method should I use?</h4>
<p>There are two methods you can use to calibrate the Extrusion Multiplier, and we'll cover both of them in this article:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Precise Method</strong>&nbsp; -&nbsp; using precision tools such as calipers or micrometers.</li>
<li><strong>Visual Method&nbsp;</strong>&nbsp;- an easy method based on observing the visual properties of your models.</li>
</ul>
<p>The choice of the method depends entirely on your preferences; in the end, both yield similar results. Even the visual method will enable you to have perfectly fitting parts with smooth &amp; flat top layers.</p>
<h4>Precise Method</h4>
<div class="note-callout">Please note that the following guide is based on <strong>default</strong> PrusaSlicer 0.4 nozzle profiles, with a layer height of 0.1mm - 0.2mm. This means that:<br />
- Nozzle size = 0.4<br />
- Extrusion width =&nbsp;0.45<br />
- Basic materials (PLA, ABS, PETG) Extrusion Multiplier = 1<br />
<strong>If you wish to calibrate the printer with a bigger/smaller nozzle or layer heights above 0.2, then you will need to adjust these values as well.</strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/cube-40-40-40.zip">Precision Method Cube STL</a>.</li>
<li>Slice it using the Vase Mode and your most-often used layer height and print it. You can find Vase mode (Print Settings →&nbsp; Layers and perimeters →&nbsp; Spiral vase).</li>
<li>Make three or more measurements in the middle of each wall and calculate the overall average thickness.</li>
<li>Calculate the extrusion multiplier using the following formula: <strong>Extrusion multiplier = (Extrusion width (0.45) / Average measured wall thickness)</strong>.</li>
<li>Adjust the Extrusion Multiplier in Filament Settings → Filament</li>
<li>Re-print the cube with new settings and go back to step 3 if necessary.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 220px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/micrometer-small-jpg.JPG" height="400" data-hd-height="220px"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that cheap digital calipers may not be accurate enough to make reliable measurements of a single perimeter wall.</div>
<h4>Visual Method</h4>
<p>This method does not require any tools, only your sight. The point is to make sure your top layers are <strong>smooth</strong>, <strong>shiny,</strong> and without <strong>scarring or filament buildup</strong> near the perimeters.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-600x374.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-800x499.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-300x187.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-768x479.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-1536x958.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="641" height="400"></p>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/visual-method-cube.zip">Visual Method Cube.stl</a></li>
<li>Slice it using the default Prusa PLA presets at 0.20mm layer height and print it.</li>
<li>Inspect the top layer of your cube visually and with the tip of the finger.</li>
<li>If the top is under extruded or not smooth, then re-adjust the Extrusion Multiplier accordingly by 1-2%.</li>
<li>Repeat the steps above as long as needed.</li>
</ol>
<p>If there is&nbsp;<strong>too much material</strong>&nbsp;near the perimeters,&nbsp;<strong>decrease</strong>&nbsp;the Extrusion Multiplier value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 390px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/buildu.jpg" data-hd-height="390px" data-hd-align="left"></p>
<p>If there are&nbsp;<strong>visible gaps</strong>&nbsp;between layer lines,&nbsp;<strong>increase</strong> the Extrusion Multiplier value. (Microscopic gaps near the perimeters are OK.)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 430px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/gaps.jpg" data-hd-height="430px" data-hd-align="left"></p>


Extrusion multiplier calibration

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

Original Prusa i3 MK3S/MK3S+ to MK3.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

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Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Printer troubleshooting

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

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Octoprint

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

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Printer settings

Advanced features

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

2. Parts check

3. Printer dissasembly

4. xBuddy assembly

5. xLCD & PSU assembly

6. Heatbed upgrade

7. Extruder & connectivity upgrade

8. Preflight check

Manual changelog MK3.5S upgrade

<p>Loose belts would cause a printer to malfunction and prevent proper printing. It can cause <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/layer-shifting_2020">Layer shifting</a>, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ghosting_1801">Ghosting</a>, or other print abnormalities like getting an irregular shape instead of a perfect circle when printing a cylinder. <strong>The Y-axis belt is located under the heatbed, X-axis belt moves the print head. All adjustments are done with the 2.5mm Allen key. </strong></p>
<h3>Checking belt tension</h3>
<h4>New procedure - Belt tuner app</h4>
<p>Follow the instructions in the video below, to adjust the belt tightness using our <a href="https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/">belt tuner</a>. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/342c4a2c9bf82513.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oeq2MVxE_H8" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<h4>Old procedure</h4>
<p>On MK3/S/+, it is possible to check the <strong>Belt Status</strong> numbers via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Support -&gt; Belt Status</em>. </p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;">While there is not a precise ideal value, from our experience, the best approximate value is around 250 on the X-axis, and 275 on the Y-axis, with an optimal range at +-15 from these values on either axis. </span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;">The value does not represent a physical quantity, but an arbitrary number inversely proportional to the motor load. The values are with the consideration that the assembly is good and that the parts are in good condition and properly lubricated. Values may not be accurate if there are other problems. </span></p>
<ul>
<li>If your value is <strong>under</strong> (or close to) 240, you need to <strong>loosen</strong> the belt</li>
<li>If your value is <strong>over</strong> (or close to) 290, you need to <strong>tighten</strong> the belt</li>
<li>The values are updated every time you run the Selftest or run the belt test in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Belt test</em>. </li>
</ul>
<p><span style="color: #000000;">Other MK-series models</span> do not have the belt status option. The clue we can give you is that the belt should sound roughly like a low bass string when plucked. It should be possible to pinch the two sides together with your thumb and index finger, but you should feel a little bit of resistance.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">The plastic parts holding the belts can get loose over time.</div>
<p>Another way is to use the technique described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_28536#30816">this step</a> of the assembly manual to test if the pulley is correctly tightened and if the belt is not too loose. Hold the X-axis motor shaft with pliers (take advantage of the flat part of the shaft) to fix it in place (<strong><span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple circle</span></strong>), then try to move the extruder by hand. <strong>You should see no slack on the belt as a result of pushing on the extruder.</strong> The same procedure can be applied to test the Y-axis pulley and belt.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/2019-08-21-16-07-05-f-jmg-pa-bdtv-ruqf-11-full-1600-1200.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="415" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>X-axis belt</h3>
<h4>Slight adjustments MK3S</h4>
<p>Loosen the two front-facing screws and make sure they have space to their right to move (<span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>yellow circles</strong></span>). While assisting with the rotation of the motor with your hand, tighten the M3x18 screw on top of the X-end-motor (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span>).</p>
<p>After each turn or two check the tension in the belt by pressing them together. For optimal performance, the belt must need some force to press together with your fingers (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span>). <strong>Move the extruder all the way to the X-end-idler and try the belt tension in the middle of the X-axis.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/d1a9b24b68e0121e_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Slight adjustments MK3S+, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S</h4>
<ol>
<li>Slightly release all the screws holding the motor, otherwise, the "tensioner" won't work as the motor must be able to move (left picture).</li>
<li>Using the ball end of the Allen key, start tightening the screw on the rear side of the X-end-motor, but after each turn or two check the tension in the belt (right picture).</li>
<li>When you achieve optimal tension, please tighten the screws again (left picture).</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/da45b9e5fe1a6ec4_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4d946176a9a518fc_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Large adjustments MK3/S/+ or MK3.5/S</h4>
<p>If a slight adjustment is not sufficient you must adjust it at the belt holder. This is found on the back of the extruder and requires a little disassembly.</p>
<p>First, remove the two top screws from the motor-holder to let the belt have some slack in order to easier manipulate the belt.</p>
<ol>
<li>Snip the zip-ties on the back of the extruder (<span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>red arrows</strong></span>), which are securing the hotend wires <strong>and</strong> the ones securing the cable wrap.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjusting-belt-tension-MK3S-03.png" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="2">
<li style="counter-increment: li 1;">Unscrew the 4 screws circled in the picture below.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjusting-belt-tension-MK3S-04.png" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="3">
<li style="counter-increment: li 2;">Carefully pull the back plate loose, making sure the wires are safe, and turn the whole plate to the left or right.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjusting-belt-tension-MK3S-05.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="574" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="4">
<li style="counter-increment: li 3;">You now have access to where you mount the belts. Put a mark on the belt with a pen or marker as close to the plastic part as possible, so you know how it was adjusted. Now, take out the belt from the mount and move it in 1-2 teeth.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">It may be necessary to cut off the last tooth of the belt.</div>
<ol start="5">
<li style="counter-increment: li 4;">Place the back plate back on, secure the screws, starting with the center one for alignment, then put on new zip-ties.</li>
<li>Re-tighten the screws on the x-motor, securing it. Adjust it tighter if needed.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Large adjustments MK4/S, MK3.9/S</h4>
<ol>
<li>Loosen the three indicated screws covering the X-carriage. Carefully take out the X-cover-back.
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/96f49f4aee27a2e4c92ed6d0dd7ff4c9_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Adjusting belt tension (review)" alt="" width="600" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
</li>
<li>You now have access to where you mount the belt. Put a mark on the belt with a pen or marker as close to the plastic part as possible, so you know how it was adjusted. Now, take out the belt from the mount and move it in 1-2 teeth.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5d0b7637d19fdb682ff706171280e0fb.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Adjusting belt tension (review)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Y-axis belt</h3>
<h4>Slight adjustments</h4>
<p>On the front plate of the printer's frame, behind the LCD module, you will find the printed Y-axis belt idler. This is held by two M3X10 screws (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span>), going through the front plate.</p>
<p>If you have a gap between the idler part and the front plate of the frame (<span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>blue arrows</strong></span>) you can tighten the belt by using your 2.5 mm Allen key to turn the screws clockwise (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span>), closing the gap.</p>
<p>The easiest way to access the screws is from below, by moving the printer to the edge of its table, with the LCD module sticking out. You now have access to the bolts from below the LCD module.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-583x400.jpeg 583w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-800x549.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-300x206.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-768x527.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-1536x1053.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="411" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Large adjustments</h4>
<p>If a slight adjustment is not sufficient you must adjust it at the belt holder. There are two main types of the Y-axis belt holder, one adjustable and one fixed. The adjustable belt holder was introduced in the first quarter of 2019, with the S-upgrade for the Original Prusa MK3, and is also featured on the Original Prusa MK4. Adjustments for this are explained in '<strong>Method 1</strong>'. For an earlier Original Prusa MK3, follow '<strong>Method 2</strong>', for the fixed belt holder.</p>
<h4>Method 1 - Adjustable belt holder</h4>
<div class="tip-callout">The Original Prusa MK4/S has a different design than in the pictures, but the procedure is the same. </div>
<ol>
<li>Unplug the printer and lay it over on the side of the PSU.</li>
<li>Below the bed carriage, you will find the belt holder. Loosen the right screw by turning it <strong>counterclockwise</strong> (<span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>orange circle</strong></span> left picture).</li>
<li>Turn the screw going through the two halves of the belt holder (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span> right picture). Turn <strong>clockwise</strong> to tighten the belt, moving the two halves together (<span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>blue arrows</strong></span>).</li>
<li>When at the correct tension, secure the right half of the belt holder again by turning the screw from step 2 clockwise (<span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>orange circle</strong></span> left picture).</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b0f4fab2c260d687_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fdec3d592f278afe_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Method 2 - Fixed belt holder</h4>
<ol>
<li>Unplug the printer and lay it over on the side of the PSU.</li>
<li>Detach the belt-idler in order to easier manipulate the belt (<strong><span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrows</span></strong>). <em>Detaching the idler completely may not be necessary, but will make it easier to adjust the belt in the next step.</em></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/e5390e0a76daf6dc_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="3">
<li style="counter-increment: li 2;">Set a mark on the belt so you know how much you are moving it. Now take out the belt of the top slot, and move it in 1-2 teeth (<strong><span style="color: #236fa1;">blue arrow</span></strong>) before pushing it back into the slot (<strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span></strong>).</li>
</ol>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/10714ac443ad0a9c_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /><em>Your belt mount may look slightly different, being another iteration, but the procedure remains the same.</em></p>
<ol start="4">
<li style="counter-increment: li 3;">Re-attach the belt-idler with its two M3x10 screws through the frame (<strong><span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span></strong>). Leave a gap with the frame, for slight adjustments (<strong>blue arrows</strong>). </li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-583x400.jpeg 583w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-800x549.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-300x206.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-768x527.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/73fa58fb081ffbfa_painted-1536x1053.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="411" loading="lazy" /></p>

Adjusting belt tension (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MK3/S/+)

<p>The Original Prusa MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+, and MK3.5/S use the E3D V6 Hotend. Any nozzle that is compatible with the E3D V6 Hotend can be installed on it. The stock nozzle that accompanies the printer is an E3D V6 0.4 mm brass nozzle, but other types and <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">diameters</a> can be used as well. <strong>The following procedure applies to all nozzles, except the Olsson Ruby.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>To replace the Olsson Ruby nozzle,</strong> follow the instructions on the <a href="https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/66-the-olsson-ruby-instructions-for-use">official 3DVERKSTAN website</a>. Otherwise, you could damage it!</div>
<h3>Why change the nozzle?</h3>
<p>There might be two main reasons for replacing the nozzle:</p>
<ul>
<li>The nozzle is worn out and needs a replacement.</li>
<li>You want to print using a different nozzle type, and/or diameter.</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">Unless you print abrasive materials with a brass nozzle, the stock brass nozzle will last you many hundreds of printing hours. Changing a relatively new nozzle to resolve a clog is not the solution!</div>
<div>The stock 0.4mm Nozzle installed on the Original Prusa i3 printers <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nozzle-e3d-v6-0-4-mm/">can be found in the eshop</a>. We also offer <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nozzle-0-4/">an alternative 0.4mm nozzle</a> compatible with i3 and MINI/+ printers.</div>
<h3>Tools necessary</h3>
<ul>
<li>2.5 mm Allen key (Included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>7 mm spanner/socket or pliers (7 mm spanner/socket not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>17 mm spanner (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>Small plate or aluminium foil (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
</ul>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<p>The following procedure assumes that a firmware version from 3.12.0 or above is installed. In case your printer has a previous firmware version, we recommend <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227">upgrading to the latest version</a>. If you did not flash a newer firmware version, follow the procedure, except for "Step 3 alternative" instead of step 3.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Follow this procedure exactly!</strong> Omitting steps can cause leaking and extrusion issues outlined at the end of this article.</div>
<ol start="1">
<li>Unload the filament, if it is loaded, from <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Unload Filament</em>. Optionally, perform a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)</a>.</li>
<li>On <strong>MK2.5/S</strong> and <strong>MK3/S/+</strong>, navigate to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; HW Setup -&gt; Nozzle Change</em>.
<ol type="a">
<li>The printer will display a message with a link to this guide.</li>
<li><strong>Click the LCD encoder</strong>: the printer will auto-home, and subsequently move the Z axis to the topmost position, and the X axis to the center. In the meantime, the printer will automatically heat the nozzle to <strong>280 °C</strong>. Heating the nozzle is essential for this process.</li>
<li>Once the nozzle is at <strong>280 °C</strong>, the printer screen will display the following message: "<strong>Hotend at 280C! Nozzle changed and tightened to specs?</strong>". Do not click on the LCD encoder for now. 
<p>On <strong>MK3.5/S</strong>, gain better access to the nozzle by moving the extruder as high as possible, go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Move Axis -&gt; Move Z</em>. Spin the <strong>Knob</strong> to adjust the height. Once this is done, preheat the nozzle to 280 °C from <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle Temperature</em>. </li>
</ol>
</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">CAUTION: Heated parts can cause severe burns!</div>
<ol start="3">
<li>Unscrew the two screws on the print fan and the single screw securing the fan shroud. Remove both parts (picture below).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/85adeda53781f1c8b8e5ad32a6c8d6c6.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+) review" alt="" width="600" height="403" loading="lazy" /></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>Hold the heater block with a 17 mm spanner (M10) or adjustable wrench.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Be extra careful around the <strong>fragile</strong> hotend heater and thermistor wires. You can break them off or <strong>short-circuit the heater with your spanner!</strong></div>
<ol start="5">
<li>Unscrew the nozzle using the supplied pliers. If you are using the E3D nozzles from our online store, use a 7mm spanner (M4) or 7 mm socket. <strong>Be careful, the nozzle is still hot! Place it out of the way on your non-flammable surface.</strong></li>
<li>Make sure that the printer is still on the screen described in step 3c, and that the set temperature (280 °C) didn't change. Holding the heater block with your spanner, carefully screw the new nozzle in and tighten it gently, but firmly. <strong>Do not use excessive force!</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Our service and assembly teams use a torque wrench rated for 1 - 5 N m and <strong>tighten the nozzle with a force of 2.5 N m</strong> (Newton Meter).</div>
<h3>Final inspection</h3>
<p><strong>There must always be a gap (~0.5 mm)</strong> between the nozzle and the heater block (left picture). The nozzle must be tightened/secured in the heater block, and <strong>locked against the heat break</strong> while heated (right picture). Failing to do so will cause leaks (center picture).</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>It is necessary to redo the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> after replacing the nozzle.</strong> If you installed a nozzle with a diameter other than 0.4 mm (0.25, 0.6, 0.8 mm), please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">Different nozzle types</a>.</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 39.2947%;"><img decoding="async" style="float: left;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 60.7053%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-300x136.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-600x272.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-768x348.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-800x363.png 800w" alt="" width="772" height="350" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find this procedure as <a href="https://youtu.be/txt6sxV6X88">a video on our YouTube channel</a>. Be aware that some steps may differ slightly from the procedure outlined here, and printed parts of the extruder may look a little different than yours.</div>


Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+, MK3.5/S)

<p></p>
<p>A 'cold pull' is a technique that allows you to clean your printer’s nozzle and hotend from any material that may be stuck or burnt inside. You can also use it to clean your hotend during your usual maintenance routine.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">If you are using Nozzle X, <strong>do not</strong> use the cold-pull method, but only use cleaning filament.</div>
<p>The cold pull should be made if your nozzle is only partially clogged, and some filament is still being extruded. If the nozzle is completely clogged, please check the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">Clogged nozzle guide</a>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Our testing has found that <strong>PLA works best for a cold pull,</strong> as other filaments do not retain the tip as PLA does and they will either tear or melt too much. However, there are filaments specifically made for cleaning hotends.</div>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> (MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+) / <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle </em>(MK3.5/S), and set the temperature to 270 °C.</li>
<li>While waiting for the nozzle to reach the temperature, toggle the <strong>Filament autoload</strong> off in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Fil. sensor -&gt; F. autoload </em>(MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+) / <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Filament sensor </em>(MK3.5/S).</li>
<li>Still being in the <em>Menu</em>, go to <em>Settings</em> and choose <em>Disable steppers </em>(MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+). On MK3.5/S, navigate to <em>Control -&gt; Disable motors</em>. <br /><em>There is no message of the steppers being disabled, but you may hear an electrical hiss disappear when selected. <strong>If you can move the bed or extruder on its axis by hand, they are disabled.</strong></em></li>
<li>Open the Extruder Idler door. <em>Unscrew the screws circled below using a 2.5 mm Allen key. On the MMU2S and MMU3, unscrew the Bowden PTFE tube that connects the MMU unit with the extruder.</em></li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idler2-600x600.jpg 600w" alt="" width="400" height="399" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-300x216.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-554x400.jpg 554w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-768x554.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mmus2-800x577.jpg 800w" alt="mmu" width="400" height="290" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="5">
<li>Once it has reached 270 °C, insert PLA filament manually into the extruder and push it in until it starts pouring out of the nozzle.</li>
<li>Stop heating by pressing <em>Cooldown</em> in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Preheat</em> (scroll all the way down), or by pressing the reset (X) button. Let the nozzle temperature drop to room temperature. To speed up the cooling you can engage the print fan at full speed, from<em> LCD menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Fan speed -&gt; [255].</em></li>
<li>Continue manually pushing the filament down until the temperature is too low for it to melt and come out (around 170 °C for PLA). <em>The nozzle has to be filled for the cold pull to be successful.</em></li>
<li>Pick away extruded material so there is nothing obstructing the pull later on.</li>
<li>After the nozzle cools down to the room temperature, go again to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 85 °C.</li>
<li><strong>As soon as the extruder reaches this temperature</strong>, grab the filament with pliers and pull it slowly but steadily out of the extruder. <em>The filament can break inside. Make sure to pull straight upwards, not sideways. Hold the extruder with your other hand.</em></li>
<li>Don't stop until the filament is completely pulled out from the extruder.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Results</h3>
<p>On the tip of the filament that has been pulled out, you may see remnants of the previous material(s) you have been using or some burnt dirt that has settled in the nozzle (left picture). You might want to repeat this procedure several times until the filament comes out clean.</p>
<p>The right picture shows what a clean cold-pulled filament should look like. It is important to have the imprint of the nozzle on it, this way you are sure the nozzle was filled and nothing was left inside. Also, the color is not mixed with the one you have been using previously or have dark marks on it.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-300x214.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-561x400.jpg 561w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-768x548.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/dirty-cold-pull-800x571.jpg 800w" alt="dirty cold pull" width="400" height="286" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-300x203.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-591x400.jpg 591w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-768x520.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/clean-cold-pull-800x542.jpg 800w" alt="clean cold pull" width="693" height="469" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>After the procedure</h3>
<p>Secure the idler door by having <strong>the head of the idler screw</strong>, on the left of the extruder, <strong>about flush with the plastic parts, when the filament is not loaded.</strong> Then we recommend running the Z calibration as pushing on the extruder might have thrown it off balance. Also, turn the filament sensor/filament autoload back on.<br />On MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+, the Z-axis calibration is found in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Calibration -&gt; Calibrate Z</em>).<br />On MK3.5/S, the Z-axis calibration is found in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Calibrations &amp; tests -&gt; 3. Z alignment calibration</em>.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">this article</a> to learn about the most common causes leading to filament extrusion problems and how to prevent them from happening.</div>

Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)

Prusa Connect &amp; PrusaLink

<p>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink are two remote printing solutions developed in-house by Prusa. Its origin is in the management system used in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/guinness-world-records-1096-original-prusa-3d-printers-running-at-the-same-time_30677/">record-sized print farm located in Prague HQ.</a></p>
<ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Prusa Connect</strong> is a cloud service for remote printing available from anywhere.</li>
<li><strong>PrusaLink</strong>* is the client-side running locally on your printer, accessible from local network</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<p><em>*formerly known as Prusa Connect Local</em></p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>Prusa Connect (<a href="http://connect.prusa3d.com">connect.prusa3d.com</a>) allows you to control your individual printers or even manage a print farm from anywhere in the world.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/9f18d1552ef82ea7ef4960a43a86a17b.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained" alt="" width="900" height="607" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of Prusa Connect interface (cloud service)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>It is available for free to the owners of selected Original Prusa printers (see the list below). You get a free 1 GB of cloud storage for your G-codes and telemetric data. The full list of features and pricing for end customers or businesses will be announced later on.</p>
<p>Furthermore, Prusa Connect is able to monitor the use of each printer individually, providing valuable statistics of your production environment. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>What is PrusaLink?</h2>
<p>Much like <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/about-octoprint_1790">Octoprint</a>, this remote printer-management system runs locally on your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/12af6bd49830e088.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink and Prusa Connect explained" alt="" width="1451" height="800" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of PrusaLink interface (local network)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Its main goal is to provide communication between your printer and the Prusa Connect cloud. The secondary function is to provide a web interface, which can be used on your local (home) network only. Simply paste the printer's IP address into your web browser to access it. Using PrusaLink alone you can monitor your printer, upload G-codes, start or cancel a print. </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>How to install and configure PrusaLink and Prusa Connect?</h2>
<p>To use the Prusa Connect, you have to first set up the PrusaLink on your printer. The guides below will take you to step by step through the entire process.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 135.328125px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>FDM printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa<strong> MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 36px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK3/S/+</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">via RPi / RPi Zero (GPIO</a>/<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 36px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK2.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">via RPi (USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>XL</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 34.722272%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>MINI / MINI +</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.026194%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>SLA printers</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1S SPEED</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>
<h3>Next-gen Original Prusa printers</h3>
<p>Such as the<strong> MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+, SL1/SL1S </strong> as well as the other upcoming models have the PrusaLink built-in. You can connect the printer either using Wi-Fi or a wired LAN (Ethernet) network. Note that on MINI/+, you have to first <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">install the Wi-Fi module</a> to use the wireless functionality.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL, MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL, MINI/+)</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">Installing Wi-Fi and PrusaLink (MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">PrusaLink (SL1/S)</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S</h3>
<p>In this case, the PrusaLink name also refers to the required hardware solution of a Raspberry Pi (RPi). These printers don't have enough performance, therefore additional hardware is required. PrusaLink is a replacement for the discontinued <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusaprint-rpi-zero-and-octoprint_2180">PrusaPrint solution</a> (Octoprint and the RPi Zero W).</p>
<h4>Which Raspberry Pi should I get for my i3 (MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S)?</h4>
<p>For your MK3/S/+, you need to get a Raspberry Pi (RPi) to make the PrusaLink and Prusa Connect work. The supported RPi boards are listed below and if you are about to purchase a new one, it is highly recommended to seek the latest generation, as the older ones might be slower.</p>
<p>On MK3/S/+, you can attach the RPi Zero <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">directly onto the printer’s mainboard</a> or use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a>.<br />On MK2.5/S, you have to use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB connection</a> to the RPi. Then, the PrusaLink and PrusaConnect setup is fairly similar to the MK3/S/+.</p>
<p>Since the RPi doesn't have internal storage, you need to get a MicroSD card. Recommended SD card: Micro SD, SDHC standard, Class 10, 8GB or more. Preferably, choose a name-brand card known to work with RPi. Do backups regularly as even a name-brand card doesn’t guarantee you won’t lose your data. </p>
<p><strong>Supported boards (GPIO connection on Einsy Rambo)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Supported boards (USB connection)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi 4</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3+</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Unsupported boards</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero (without Wi-Fi) and older</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 2 and older</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>What not to do while RPi Zero W/2 is connected and the printer is powered up:<br /></strong><br />- Don't move any of the printer's axes by hand! Use the Move Axis menu only.<br />- Don't connect or disconnect the RPi.<br />- Don't insert or remove the microSD card inside the RPi.<br />- Don't touch the RPi board.<br />- For connecting or powering the RPi, don't use any other methods than the ones endorsed by Prusa.<br />- Only follow the guidance from the official documentation issued by Prusa Research.<br />- Prusa Research is not responsible for any damage done by or caused to third-party hardware.</div>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect setup (MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">PrusaLink/Prusa Connect with RPi 3/4 (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-update-prusalink-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_650837">How to update PrusaLink (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Other guides related to Prusa Connect and PrusaLink:</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/camera-setup-for-prusalink-prusa-connect_470943">Camera setup for PrusaLink / Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/camera-compatibility-rpi-prusalink_654918">Camera compatibility (RPi + PrusaLink)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/esp-camera-for-prusa-connect_390199">ESP Camera for Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/sending-files-from-prusaslicer-to-prusalink_222961">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to PrusaLink</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sending-g-codes-to-printer-via-network-prusaconnect-prusalink-octoprint_196761">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to printer via network (Prusa Connect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-telegram-notifications-setup_529662">Prusa Connect - Telegram notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-discord-notifications-setup_536115">Prusa Connect - Discord notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusa-connect-slack-notifications-setup_536172">Prusa Connect - Slack notifications setup</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-set-a-static-ip-address_695648">How to set a static IP Address</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-connect-to-rpi-via-ssh_658030">How to connect to RPi via SSH</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/connecting-original-prusa-sl1-sl1s-to-prusaslicer_133977">Connecting SL1/S to PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">Internet Connection (SL1/S)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_419630">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (XL firmware up to 4.7.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_420001">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (XL firmware up to 4.7.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-local-mini_133279">Prusa Connect Local (Firmware 4.0.5 - 4.3.4, via Ethernet, Obsolete guide) (MINI/+)</a> <br /> <br />  </li>
</ul>
<h3>Octoprint / Other / 3rd-party projects:</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/octoprint-setup-on-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_646395">Octoprint setup ( MK4 / MK3.9 / MK3.5 / XL )</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182">Octoprint Configuration and install (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/about-octoprint_1790">About Octoprint</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-ESP32-Cam">ESP32 Cam for Prusa Connect (GitHub)</a></li>
</ul>


Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained

<p>The materials used for FFF 3D printing are mostly hygroscopic. This means that they readily attract water molecules from the environment they are in. When used for printing, a material that has gathered humidity might not behave as expected.</p>
<h3>Prevention</h3>
<p>Some filaments are more hygroscopic than others. When using a new material, make sure to research its properties and the best way to store it. It is best to avoid having to dry the filament if possible.</p>
<p>It is best to store your filaments in a closed space or box, with some desiccant material in it. If you have limited availability for this type of storage, prioritize storing filaments that are more hygroscopic. PLA, for example, doesn't change properties too much by uptaking humidity, whereas Polyamide is affected quite significantly.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">To prevent any issues with the highly hygroscopic materials (polyamid, polypropylen, PVA, BVOH, ...) it is recommended to either ensure they were stored in a dry environment or dry them before every print.</div>
<p>You can purchase a box with the specific purpose of keeping the filament dry, or <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/dryboxes-and-alternative-spool-holders-not-only-for-multimaterial-upgrade_30525/">make your own</a>.</p>
<p>Another popular solution to keep your filament dry is using vacuum bags for storage. There are bags specific for filaments, but you can use any that will fit a filament inside. Keep a desiccant in the bag when storing the filament.</p>
<h3>Multi-Tool Printing</h3>
<p>In printers like the Original Prusa XL, where filament is loaded directly into toolheads any humidity in the filament is critical. When printing with multiple toolheads, the unused tools remain heated (the idle temperature is set to 70°C by default). If the filament is wet, moisture is released into the tool, causing stringing in the toolhead. In such cases, even PLA can absorb enough moisture to create printing issues. This makes the XL more susceptible to filament moisture compared to single-tool printers, therefore we recommend drying the filament for printing on the Original Prusa XL.</p>
<h3>How to recognize if the filament has gathered humidity</h3>
<p>In case a material is affected by humidity, the general first signal will be a poor quality of the model surface.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some filaments are naturally more stringy than others. Make sure to compare different results from your prints, and check our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/stringing-and-oozing_1805">Stringing and oozing</a> guide.</div>
<p>In some cases, the high content of water in filament can cause low layer adhesion, blobs on the prints, and bubbling and smoke during extrusion.</p>
<p>Polyamide, PVA, and TPU (Flex) are filaments more commonly in need of drying than more popular filaments like PLA.</p>
<h3>Prusament black spool</h3>
<p>The black plastic sides of Prusament spools are firmly pressed into the cardboard cylinder. The plastic sides expand with rising temperature and cause the expansion of the cardboard center as well. When the temperature decreases plastic shrinks back to its original shape but the cardboard stays expanded which causes loosen spool. <strong>The spools can be heated up safely up to 45 ºC without this happening.</strong></p>
<p>Alternatively, it is possible to add a screw holding the two sides of the plastic together. The screw needs to have a thread of at least 65 mm. In the pictures, we use an M4x65 screw, tightened by a 3.5mm Allen key.</p>
<p>After heating up the spool to above 45 ºC, the screw will need to be in the spool until the end of its use, or else the spool will fall apart.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Prusament Grey spool</h3>
<p>The Prusament spools with grey plastic sides are also pressed to the cardboard center, but they are also glued. <strong>The glue added can withstand up to 90 ºC</strong>. So there is no need to add the screw to dry this spool if this temperature is not exceeded.</p>
<p>The PA11CF filament uses the grey Prusament spools. It is recommended to keep this filament in a dry box between each use, even if the filament will be used soon. In case that is not possible, dry the filament before each use.</p>
<h3>Drying methods</h3>
<h4>Temperatures</h4>
<p>Once we are sure that the spool will not fall apart, the following temperatures and times are recommended for the Prusament materials. It is important not to exceed these temperatures while drying the filament, or the filament will soften and stick together.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 128.8px;">
<thead>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Material</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Temperature</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Time</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PLA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PVB</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">8 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PETG</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">55 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">ASA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">80 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">85 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">5 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PCCF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">95 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">PA11CF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">90 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Filament dryer</h4>
<p>There are specialized boxes that will not only keep filaments dry but also actively remove the moisture from filaments. Usually, you are also able to keep the filament in the box while printing.</p>
<p>Make sure to check the specifications of the box you intend to use to make sure that it matches the drying temperature of your filament.</p>
<h4>Oven</h4>
<p>Since most people have an oven at home, this seems the easiest way to dry filament. However, some things need to be noted for filament drying in a conventional oven.</p>
<p>Home ovens don't have a very precise temperature measurement. The fluctuations that do not affect your food might damage your filament, especially low-temperature ones like PLA. If using an oven, make sure to have an external thermometer to correct the temperature if necessary.</p>
<p>Another issue is that a lot of home ovens cannot be set at a temperature low enough to dry the filaments without damaging them. Even if left for less time than recommended, high temperatures will damage the filament.</p>
<h4>Food dehydrator</h4>
<p>A different method of drying is adapting a food dehydrator to fit a filament spool inside. The adaptation is usually achieved by taking off the trays between the layers and placing the filaments inside. These dehydrators usually have only low temperatures, so check the drying temperature of your filament before purchasing one.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">After drying, make sure to store the filament properly.</div>


Drying filament

<div><strong><img decoding="async" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225" loading="lazy" /></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ASA</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong>, due to its high UV light and temperature resistance. Unlike other materials soluble in more dangerous chemicals, <strong>ASA can be dissolved in acetone.</strong> The main disadvantage of this material is significant warping, which requires printing at higher ambient temperatures.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 260 °C</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 105 °C for the first layer, 110 °C for the other layers.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-asa/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">ASA</strong></a> (Acrylic Styrene Acrylonitrile) is a technical material that is considered a <strong>successor to ABS</strong>. Compared to ABS, <strong>ASA is more UV resistant, warps less, and doesn’t smell as much.</strong> ASA is a tough and resilient material that is, thanks to its UV and temperature resistance (up to 93 °C), <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong> and for making technical parts. Another great advantage of ASA is its <strong>solubility in acetone</strong>, which can be used to make a smooth and glossy finish. This gives the model not only great looks but also different mechanical properties (see our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>).</p>
<p>The main disadvantage of ASA is <strong>significant warping</strong> caused by temperature differences between the model and its surroundings. Another disadvantage is that ASA releases potentially dangerous fumes during printing - this means you should keep your printer in a well-ventilated area. ASA can be easily sanded both wet and dry.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ASA printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>You can find more details about how to print with ASA in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/asa-prusament-is-here-learn-everything-about-the-successor-to-abs/">our in-depth article</a>.</p>
<p>And to compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High UV resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ An enclosure is necessary for printing large parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Detailed prints with no stringing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Prints at high temperatures</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Easy postprocessing (e.g. sanding, cutting, etc.)</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Partially hygroscopic (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High impact and wear resistance</td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p><strong>ASA</strong> is suitable for outdoor use and for making technical parts.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated to at least <strong>100 °C</strong>, and the printer should be inside an enclosure to keep a higher ambient temperature. If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/"><strong>PrusaSlicer</a></strong>, use the draft shield option (Print Settings/Skirt &amp; Brim). This will create a wall around the object and keep the model slightly warmer, mitigating the warping. Keep in mind that printing a lot of ASA in an unventilated enclosure can cause the fan shroud and/or extruder plastic parts to deform over time. This may impact performance or cause issues.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p>
</div>
<p><strong>ASA sticks very well to our print sheets</strong> (smooth and powder coated) but other print surfaces, like glass, might require a layer of acetone with dissolved ASA (or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a>).</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not put acetone or ABS/ASA juice on the powder-coated sheet!</div>
<h3><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></h3>
<p>ASA is a pretty good material for postprocessing. Not only you can <strong>sand it wet and dry</strong> but you can also <strong>glue/weld it with acetone</strong> and <strong>smooth it with acetone vapors.</strong> Smoothed models have a glossy surface that looks like it’s treated with car lacquer or was injection molded. However, printed objects usually tend to lose detail and sharp edges with smoothing. You can find out more about chemical smoothing in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 572px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-302x400.jpg 302w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-452x600.jpg 452w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-226x300.jpg 226w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-768x1019.jpg 768w" alt="" width="772" height="1024" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Mechanical parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed prints</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Fan shroud (high-temperature resistant parts)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Outdoor (UV resistant) parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>On the <strong>Prusa CORE One</strong>, <strong>Original Prusa MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.5/S</strong>, and <strong>XL</strong>, the firmware is flashed using a USB flash drive. This is valid for all ways of firmware updating. </p>
<h3>Offline USB Drive procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Download the latest firmware for your printer and extract it (zip file) on your computer
<ul>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/core-one">Prusa CORE One</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk4s">Original Prusa MK4S</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk4">Original Prusa MK4</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk3-9s">Original Prusa MK3.9S</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk3-9">Original Prusa MK3.9</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk3-5s">Original Prusa MK3.5S</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk3-5">Original Prusa MK3.5</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/xl">Original Prusa XL</a></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Make sure the USB flash drive doesn't contain any previous firmware (.bbf file)</li>
<li>Copy the new .bbf file to the root directory of a USB flash drive (Not within a folder).</li>
<li>Insert the USB flash drive and push the reset button<strong>.</strong> The bootloader will automatically compare the installed version with the one on the drive and, if it is newer, will automatically offer you to flash it. </li>
<li>Confirm the update by selecting the "FLASH" button and pressing the knob. </li>
</ol>
<p>If you need to downgrade the firmware or re-flash the same firmware, follow this guide: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-downgrade-firmware-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_725930">How to downgrade firmware</a>.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/bea8afeb237e8fbf20569f4fb0b05180_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;">
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/fd92b9aa013388cb_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="How to update firmware (CORE One, MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>OTA (Over-The-Air) firmware update</h3>
<p>If your printer is connected to <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-and-prusalink-explained_302608"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></a>, an over-the-air firmware update is also possible. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is still necessary to have a USB drive connected to the printer! </div>
<p>Prusa Connect checks the printer’s firmware version and offers you an option to remotely update it if a newer version is available. Click on the orange arrow icon to open a new window, with the option to transfer the new firmware file to the USB drive inserted in the printer. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/89fe9b29dc6ebf11e2f94715e062bcdd.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="How to update firmware (CORE One)" alt="" width="500" height="500" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Factory Reset</h3>
<p>If you do a <strong>hard</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/factory-reset-core-one-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mini-xl_421206"><strong>Factory Reset</strong></a>, it is necessary to insert a USB drive with a firmware file. This firmware file is installed in the printer, so this can be used as a way to update the firmware. </p>


How to update firmware (CORE One, MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)

<div><strong><img decoding="async" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-768x433.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-2048x1154.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="400" height="225" loading="lazy" /></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>Flexible materials</strong> are characterized by their <strong>excellent flexibility, tenacity, and chemical resistance</strong>. These materials are relatively uncommon, expensive, and suitable mostly for advanced users due to high print difficulty.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 <strong>°</strong>C - 245 <strong>°</strong>C (Depending on hardness and brand).</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C - 75 °C (Depending on the size of the object, bigger objects tend to need higher bed temperature).</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/flex/">Flexible filaments</a> are <strong>chemically and mechanically resistant</strong> materials. Individual layers hold strongly together and there is a great print surface adhesion (applies only for TPU and TPEE). Due to these qualities, it is necessary to print on a powder-coated sheet or use a special separator on the print surface (glue stick or Kapton tape). Flexible filaments are <strong>TPE</strong> (thermoplastic elastomer) material, however, they are distributed under various names, such as <strong>TPU, TPEE,</strong> etc. For example, TPU is basically a subtype of TPE material and the main difference between TPU and TPE is its <strong>shore hardness</strong>. TPU is usually around 60A-90A on the shore hardness scale. Generally speaking, <strong>the softer the filament is, the harder it is to print.</strong></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 296.533px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 278.133px;">
<td style="width: 98.794%; height: 278.133px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-600x209.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-800x279.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-300x105.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-768x268.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="279" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 98.794%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;"><em>Shore hardness scale, source: smooth-on.com</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Flexible filaments are usually very <strong>resistant to wear</strong> (scratching), <strong>stay flexible</strong> even in cold environments, and show <strong>great resistance against various solvents</strong>. Dimensions are stable, there is <strong>little to no shrinking or warping</strong>. Their <strong>tenacity and tensile strength are excellent:</strong> 3D-printed parts can withstand great stress before breaking. These properties make it suitable for printing spacing washers and other high-stress parts. With proper print settings, you could print stamps, RC tires, shoe soles, belts, etc.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Some very soft flex materials can bond to the bed too much and require the use of glue stick on the bed as a separator to prevent PEI damage. A good alternative is the <strong>Textured Spring-steel sheet</strong>.</div>
<p>Printing with flexible filaments is recommended <strong>only for experienced makers</strong>, considering various challenges during printing. We’re talking about frequent nozzle clogging, poor bridging and overhang characteristics, filament tangling into extruder gears, stringing, and oozing.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Flexibility &amp; tenacity</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ High print difficulty</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Dimensional stability (low shrinkage)</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Low printing speed</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Very bad bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High mechanical and chemical resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Difficult support removal</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;"> </td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;"> </td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Hygroscopic material (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of flexible filament is for printing <strong>spacing washers</strong> and other high-stress parts. With proper print settings, you could print <strong>stamps, RC tires, shoe soles, belts, etc.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>Important rules for successful printing with flexible filaments</strong></h3>
<ol>
<li><strong>Make sure the nozzle is unobstructed.</strong> If you’re not sure, do a cold pull to clean it completely.  </li>
<li><strong>Loosen the idler</strong> so the gears push the filament through only very gently. If they press too hard, the filament might get entangled in the gears.</li>
<li><strong>If you print on a smooth or satin sheet, apply a separation layer on it</strong> (glue stick or Kapton tape should work). The powder-coated TXT sheet does not need any separation layer - the print will stick just fine and can be easily removed without damaging the surface.</li>
<li><strong>Print slowly.</strong> The slower, the better. A typical speed for flexible filaments is usually 20 mm/s, the maximal recommended speed is somewhere between 30 and 40 mm/s. With higher speeds, you risk clogging the nozzle or tangling filament into the gears. For Original Prusa printers, we recommend using the “Semiflex or Flexfill 98A” or “Filatech FilaFlex40” profiles that have proper speed settings.</li>
<li><strong>Increase the nozzle temperature by 5 °C</strong>, this will lower filament resistance. Keep print cooling turned off.</li>
<li><strong>Keep the filament dry.</strong> Flexible filaments tend to absorb moisture and can be hard to print when wet.</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Flexibility and slicer settings</strong></p>
<p>Do you need <strong>better mechanical resistance?</strong> Set more infill and perimeters in PrusaSlicer. But if you need to <strong>retain the material flexibility</strong>, try to lower the number of perimeters and top/bottom layers. However, keep in mind that flexible filaments are not good at bridging and overhangs. A combination of thin layers and poor bridging can lead to ugly holes and protrusions.</p>
<p><strong>Retractions</strong></p>
<p>If you use a different program than <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/"><strong>PrusaSlicer</strong></a><strong>,</strong> try to adjust retractions a little bit. With lower retractions, there is a lower risk of clogging the nozzle or filament tangling. It’s alright to <strong>turn the retractions off</strong> completely and then try to raise them and watch the results. </p>
<p><strong>Printing supports</strong></p>
<p>Supports may need more space in Z-axis. Try to <strong>increase it to 0,3 mm</strong>. Supports that are closer to your model might stick to it too strongly and might be difficult to remove. Increase 'XY separation between an object and its support to at least 100%.</p>
<p><strong>Filament sensor</strong></p>
<p>Remember that automatic filament change might not work properly with flexible filaments.</p>
<p>Do you want to know more about printing with flexible filaments? Check <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-print-with-flexible-filament_29672/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">our blog article</strong></a>.</p>
<h3>Flexible filament</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL has a long path from the loading to the extruder nozzle. Due to its softness, Flexible filaments need special attention when being loaded in this printer. For that, follow the instructions in the video below:</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tCOMrs83SYs?si=0rFNQidUOubL_FJt" width="560" height="314" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 636px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-800x451.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-768x433.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-2048x1154.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1419" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Flex.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Flex-300x300.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Flex-400x400.png 400w" alt="" width="420" height="420" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Stamps, hoses, and tires</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Example of filament flexibility</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>RC tires</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>GoPro and phone protection sleeve</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Flexible materials

<p>As there are ways of remotely transferring files and starting prints, an SD card or USB flash drive is the most common and reliable way to get your files to your machine. Though common and convenient, flash memory is not the most reliable in itself and your storage can be corrupted or fill up without any obvious signs. Therefore, we have put together a small guide on how to maintain, format, and purchase memory for your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<h3>Make sure your SD card is not locked!</h3>
<p>The SD card has a latch on the side. Before using your SD card, make sure that the latch is not set to the Locked position. In case it is locked, you will not be able to save files on the card, and the printer will not be able to open the SD card.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-300x293.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-410x400.jpg 410w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>Storage over 32 GB</h3>
<p>There is no upper size limit on compatible storage media, but <strong>the built-in Windows formatting tool does not support formatting storage media from a size of 32 GB or more to FAT32.</strong> It will only provide the option for exFAT, which is currently not supported by our printers. There are similar limitations under various versions of Apple's OSx, where a third-party application must be used to format it correctly.</p>
<p>To format such a drive you need a third-party application, like Rufus, FAT32 format, or EaseUS Partition Master. <strong>Be careful when using such programs</strong> so you do not <strong>accidentally format the wrong storage media</strong>, like your hard drive. However, 8-16 GB is more than enough for most use cases, as a G-code file rarely exceeds 100 MB.</p>
<h3>How do I format the USB drive/SD card?</h3>
<p>If your SD card or USB drive is full or if you can't read the content of the drive, but the drive is recognized by windows, most often all you need to do is to format the drive.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your USB drive or SD card does not even show up in your computer file explorer it is probably corrupted beyond repair, or at least beyond the scale of this article. If you get an error like the one in the picture below and it does not show up anywhere, off to google you go, but you might have to consider this card/USB drive lost and get a new one.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-800x317.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-768x304.jpg 768w" alt="" width="631" height="250"></p>
<h3>How to format on Windows</h3>
<p>On Windows, this is very simple. Locate your USB drive or SD card in my computer, right-click, and choose format.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-300x288.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-417x400.png 417w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-768x737.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-625x600.png 625w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>A new small window will pop up. Most of the time you can simply leave everything to default, but the most important thing is that the <strong>File System is set to FAT32.</strong> This and the Volume Label (Name of the drive) is the only thing you want to touch here. Click Start and your drive will be formatted in a matter of seconds.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Formatting any drive will delete all the content of the drive! Back up your stuff!</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-166x300.png 166w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-222x400.png 222w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04.png" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="note-callout">If the USB stick will not work even after this procedure, it is either broken or its "partitioning scheme" is set as GPT, which is incorrect. <strong>It must be set as MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong> For how to change this, please see <a href="https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/storage/disk-management/change-a-gpt-disk-into-an-mbr-disk">Microsoft's official documentation</a>.</div>
<h3>How to format on Mac</h3>
<p>On Mac, it is a few more steps, but still very accessible. Again, you want to choose <strong>FAT32 as your file system</strong>, but you also have the option of changing the "partitioning scheme", which <strong>should always be MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">This process deletes all content from the drive.</div>
<ol>
<li>Plug the USB drive or SD card into your Mac.</li>
<li>Go to <em>Applications -&gt; Utilities</em> and launch <em>Disk Utility.</em></li>
<li>Click on the icon in the top-left (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow</span>) and select "Show All Devices" from the drop-down menu.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>Right-click on the USB drive/SD card in the sidebar under "External". <em>Select the top entry for your drive, not a partition located below.</em></li>
<li>Select Erase in the Disk Utility-toolbar (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="6">
<li>Enter a name for the formatted disk.</li>
<li>Click on the Format menu and choose MS-DOS (FAT).</li>
<li>Make sure the Scheme is set to "Master Boot Record".</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-600x301.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-800x401.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-300x150.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-768x385.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-1536x771.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-2048x1027.png 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="251"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="9">
<li>Click Erase.</li>
<li>Your USB drive will now be erased and re-formatted correctly.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">If your SD card is not detected by the printer at all, be sure to check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-card-not-working_2095">SD card not working</a> for further information.</div>

SD cards and USB drives

<p>In case there is a clog in your hotend, the filament might grind against the Bondtech-gears and be damaged enough so it can't be unloaded. It might snap right above the PTFE-tube when you try to pull it out by hand. In this case, the filament will need to be removed manually.</p>
<h3>Idler door open</h3>
<p>Open the idler door by removing the spring-loaded tension-screw(s), on the left side of the extruder.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 348px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 331px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-800x600.jpg 800w" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-534x400.jpg 534w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3S, MK3S+, MK3.5/S extruder (single idler screw)</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3 extruder (two idler screws)</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div> </div>
<h4>MMU2S/MMU3 idler door</h4>
<div>On the MMU, due to the "chimney" (IR-sensor-holder-mmu2s), you must remove the whole idler door by unscrewing the hinge- screw (red arrow) on the back. </div>
<div> </div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="401" height="301" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Where did it break?</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 311px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 294px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="399" height="299" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>Use Method 1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center; height: 17px;"><strong>Use Method 2</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>If the filament snapped right at the edge of the PTFE you should start with Method number 1, where you try to push the filament through the hotend. If there is 0.5-1cm sticking out of the filament, reaching the Bondtech filament-pulley starts with Method number 2, pulling it out with pliers.</p>
<h3>Setup</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 280º C. Wait for 3-5 minutes with the hotend at this temperature.</li>
<li>In the LCD menu in <em>Settings,</em> select <em>Disable steppers</em>.</li>
<li>Go to the  <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. Autoload,</em> so A<em>utoload</em> will not interfere.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">From now on the hotend will be hot! Avoid touching the lower part of the extruder (heaterblock + nozzle)!</div>
<h3>Method 1: Pushing the filament through the hotend</h3>
<p>Using another piece of filament, a thin (1-1,5 mm) Allen-wrench or same diameter wire, at least 4.5 cm long for the MK3(s) and 6 cm long for the MMU2s, you are often able to simply push it through.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="574" height="431" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<ol>
<li>Feed in from the top of the extruder your tool of choice, down past the Bondtech-gear, and on top of the stuck filament.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you are able to push the stuck filament down the PTFE-tube with an Allen-wrench, switch to using filament after about 1-2 cm. Some Allen-wrenches may only be long enough to get it started.</div>
<ol start="2">
<li>In case the filament starts being extruded from the bottom, Keep pushing the filament to clear the nozzle and see the color change.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Method 2: Pull out filament with pliers</h3>
<p>While hotend is heated to 280° C, firmly grab the filament with the needle-nose pliers that came with the printer. Slowly drag/feed the filament upwards, bit by bit, through the top of the extruder body, until it is completely removed from the PTFE-tube.</p>
<p>The filament can get stuck on geometry on the path up through where it is fed. It is also possible to pull it out of the idler door.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="627" height="470" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="tip-callout">After removing the filament, do a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)</a> to ensure you have fully cleared the clog.</div>
<h3>Nope, it is still stuck</h3>
<p>If none of these methods work, it means that the tip is not touching the part of the hotend that is heated and is stuck in the PTFE-tube. In this case, you must extract the PTFE-tube. Follow the guide linked below to resolve it.</p>
<div class="note-callout">You will probably need to heat the hotend to extract the PTFE-tube with the stuck filament.</div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3-mk2-5_17360">How to replace a PTFE tube (MK3/MK2.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)</a></li>
</ul>


Removing filament from extruder manually

<div><strong><img decoding="async" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-400x400.png 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-600x600.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-300x300.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-768x768.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-1536x1536.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pc_urban_grey-2048x2048.png 2048w" alt="" width="225" height="225" loading="lazy" /></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div>Polycarbonate (PC) is a technical material with <strong>great tenacity, tensile strength, and heat resistance</strong>. However, it’s very hard to print, therefore suitable mainly for advanced users. However, this doesn't apply to our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-pc-blend-urban-grey-970g/"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>, which is significantly easier to print compared to other polycarbonates.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;"> </div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 275 °C</div>
<div> </div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 110 °C for the first layer, 115 °C for other layers</div>
<div> </div>
<div style="text-align: left;"><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Powder-coated TXT or satin sheet with a glue stick will provide the best adhesion. Note that while the powder-coated satin sheet works perfectly without a glue stick, it is recommended to use a separation layer to prevent surface wear.</div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><strong>Description</strong></h3>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Polycarbonates (PC)</strong> are a group of polymers excelling in their <strong>tenacity, tensile strength, and temperature resistance.</strong> Outside of the 3D printing world, they are used for example for making CDs, protective glasses and shields, or car headlight covers.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Pure polycarbonate</strong> is not suitable for 3D printing because of its bad surface adhesion and significant thermal expansion. Prints tend to deform and crack. For this reason, various additives are usually added to improve printability. The result of our own development is the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-pc-blend-urban-grey-970g/"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a><strong>.</strong> It has relatively <strong>great printability</strong> and is suitable for making <strong>technical parts</strong> with high mechanical and temperature resistance.</p>
<div class="warning-callout" style="text-align: left;"><strong>We do not suggest using PC on a smooth PEI sheet.</strong> Its great adhesion might damage the surface! If you have to, use the Gluestick as a separation layer.</div>
<p style="text-align: left;">The main disadvantage of most polycarbonates is that they’re extremely hygroscopic (they absorb moisture). They should be stored in airtight containers with desiccant (silica gel) and should be dried in the oven prior to printing.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Some manufacturers counter this with various additives, for example, <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-pc-blend-urban-grey-970g/"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a> tends to absorb moisture <strong>much less than other polycarbonates</strong>. Because of its high-temperature resistance, PC is a suitable material for printer fan shrouds.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Polycarbonate requires <strong>some experience</strong> to print properly. If you are a beginner, consider experimenting with easier materials like <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/pla_2062"><strong>PLA</strong></a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059"><strong>PETG</strong></a> first.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High-temperature resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Pure polycarbonate is highly hygroscopic</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High impact tenacity and tensile strength</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ High nozzle and bed temperature</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Pure polycarbonate is transparent</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ High warping, especially with large models</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Good electric insulation properties</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Moderate odor during printing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;"> </td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Application of a separation layer is recommended</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;"> </td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ High price</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PC is for printing technical parts requiring great heat and mechanical resistance.</p>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Consider using an enclosure</strong></p>
<p>Printing polycarbonate is often tricky, as it tends to warp a lot, even with the additives. Printing inside an enclosure helps. Polycarbonate needs to be printed on a special surface, for example, a powder-coated sheet with a glue stick, PEI, or Build-tak. For small to medium objects, you can increase infill to &gt;25% and add more top layers (4 or more) for a stronger print. However, this is not recommended for large prints, where we recommend reducing this.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p>
</div>
<p><strong>Use a Skirt in PrusaSlicer</strong></p>
<p>If you don’t have a printer enclosure, we suggest placing the object in the middle of the printing platform and setting the skirt value as high as possible. This will make a microclimate with a slightly higher temperature around the model and increase your chances for a successful print.</p>
<p><strong>Add Brim around small objects</strong></p>
<p>You should use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969"><strong>Brim function</strong></a> for printing parts with a small contact area with the print surface.</p>
<p><strong>Try to avoid warping</strong></p>
<p><strong>Polycarbonate is not suitable for printing large objects covering the whole sheet.</strong> Prints with round edges warp less than those with sharp edges (this is true for any type of filament). Warping is also affected by infill density and the number of <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/layers-and-perimeters_1748"><strong>perimeters</strong></a>. Denser infill (and more material inside the object in general) increases warping - and a risk of separation from the print surface. A lesser number of perimeters increases the chances of a successful print of large polycarbonate models.</p>
<p><strong>Do not print in cold areas</strong></p>
<p>In some cases, the printer might show a “Bed thermal runaway” error. This typically occurs with ambient temperatures below 18 °C when the printer cannot hold the high heatbed temperature.</p>
<p><strong>Careful print preparation is a key</strong></p>
<p>Prusament PC Blend is easy to print compared to other polycarbonates. Print preparation is also quite easy. Recommended nozzle and bed temperatures are 275±10 °C and 110 ±10 °C. PC Blend is printable on the powder-coated TXT sheet if you apply glue stick on it. If you print without a glue separation layer, you risk damaging the print sheet. This issue was moderated with the <strong>powder-coated satin sheet.</strong> This surface doesn't need any separation layer if you print with PC Blend occasionally. If you print with polycarbonate regularly, we still suggest using glue stick to keep your satin sheet in the best shape possible.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can see how to prepare each steel sheet for your filament in our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">Material table</a>.</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kolecka-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fan_shroud-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Pulley linear bearings</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Fan shroud</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/kohoutek_2-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/klapka_vzduch-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Water angle valve lever</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Air filter cover</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/battery_pack-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/pant-scaled-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Battery pack</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Hinges</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Polycarbonate (PC)

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div><strong>PLA</strong> is one of the <strong>easiest materials to print.</strong> It is inexpensive and suitable (not only) for beginners. It’s usually used for printing detailed models, figures, and quick prototypes that don’t require high mechanical, chemical, or temperature resistance.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215 °C for the first layer, 210 °C for other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PLA</strong></a> (Polylactic acid) is a plant-based polyester. <strong>PLA does not require a heated bed</strong>, can be printed fast and with low temperatures (melting point is somewhere around 175 °C). With PLA you can print both small, detailed models and large objects filling almost the entire print volume. Unlike some other filaments, <strong>PLA is not prone to significant warping</strong>. It is good for quick prototyping and creation of nice, low-cost models: concepts, prototypes, simple toys, jewelry, statues, etc. It is not suitable for technical and outdoor use. It doesn’t resist high temperatures (it gets soft and deform at temperatures over 60 °C), degrades under UV light and its mechanical resistance is also inferior - it breaks by the layers or into shards upon impact. Layer adhesion is weaker compared to other materials. Sanding PLA is possible with sandpaper but needs water cooling (wet sanding).</p>
<p>Various sources claim that <strong>PLA is biologically degradable</strong>. The material is made from corn, sugar cane, or sugar beet and indeed can be decomposed, but only in specialized composting facilities where temperatures exceed 80 °C. It is definitely <strong>not a good idea</strong> to throw the <strong>PLA</strong> waste into your garden compost - the material will not disintegrate, plus you will contaminate the soil with plastic microparticles.</p>
<p>Although the <strong>PLA</strong> material itself is <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament material) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layers/grooves that can support bacterial growth. If you still want 3D printed dishes or food containers, we suggest applying a <strong>special layer that seals the surface</strong> (food-safe coating) and printing with a stainless steel nozzle.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low price</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Brittle and inflexible</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print, suitable for beginners</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Low UV and temperature resistance</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good detail and low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Difficult post-processing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Suitable for large models</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PLA is for printing concept models, prototypes, or low-wear toys.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Consider using a smooth PEI sheet</strong></p>
<p>If you print with PLA on our Original Prusa i3 printers, <strong>you can print on either a smooth, powder-coated TXT or powder-coated satin sheet.</strong> However, the smooth sheet works better for printing parts that have a small contact area with the print surface. With a powder-coated sheet, you should move your live-Z lower: Filament must fill in the sheet texture. However, you need to be careful and not move the nozzle too low or you will damage your sheet! <strong>Info for different printer users:</strong> PLA is printable not only on PEI surface, but also on glass, Kapton tape, or using a glue stick.</p>
<p><strong>Try to adjust retractions for better results</strong></p>
<p>PLA is sometimes prone to stringing and oozing - this can be reduced with proper retraction settings.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
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<div class="p-rich_text_section"><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">Chemical smoothing</a> of PLA is possible only in <strong>laboratory conditions</strong> - PLA can be dissolved in <strong>chloroform, hot benzene, or tetrahydrofuran.</strong> These are dangerous organic solvents that should be handled only by skilled lab technicians. Some of the PLA filaments can be also partially dissolved and <strong>glued with acetone</strong> (or you can simply glue it with superglue).</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Static models</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases, cups, and other tabletop models</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Audio volume knob and other electronic parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="399" height="225" loading="lazy" /></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ABS</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for printing mechanically stressed parts</strong>, thanks to its high tenacity and temperature resistance. Its surface can be smoothed with <strong>acetone</strong>. The main disadvantage is significant warping and toxic fumes.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 255 °C </div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 100 °C, you can set the bed temperature between 80 to 110 °C depending on the size of an object (larger object means higher temperature).</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p>In the world of 3D printing, the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/asa-abs/"><strong>ABS</strong></a> (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is basically a <strong>predecessor of</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809"><strong>ASA</strong></a>. Some experienced users may remember it as nearly the only material available for hobby 3D printing. ABS is generally used for making inexpensive, sturdy mechanical parts (LEGO bricks, car parts, cellphone parts, etc.). The material is <strong>tenacious and high-temperature resistant.</strong> This makes it suitable for engineering parts, etc. Compared to ASA, there is slightly worse UV resistance and more significant warping and odor during printing. Note that ABS parts used outdoor turn yellowish and more brittle over time.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ABS printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High tenacity &amp; mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good high-temperature resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Requires printer enclosure</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy postprocessing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td> </td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of ABS is for printing cheap technical parts requiring good heat and mechanical resistance or parts that need to be acetone smoothed.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated at least up to 100 °C, <strong>the printer should be inside an enclosure</strong> with a higher ambient temperature.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p>
</div>
<p>If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>, go to skirt &amp; brim and turn on the draft shield. This will keep the model slightly warmer and mitigate the warping. Printing inside an enclosure can lead to deformation of the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/">fan shroud</a> and other plastic parts. This can affect the printer's functionality. In case your plastic parts tend to deform, we recommend printing them from a more high-temperature resistant material, for example <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>.</p>
<p><strong>Shrinkage</strong></p>
<p>You should keep in mind that <strong>ABS-printed parts tend to shrink slightly</strong> after cooldown. We recommend printing a testing object and comparing it with a source model. The shrinkage factor of this material is usually somewhere around 1-2%.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<p>ABS can be sanded wet and dry and smoothed with acetone fumes, just like ASA (see more in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>)</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 319px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lego bricks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed model</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-600x337.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-800x449.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-300x168.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-768x431.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="300" height="168"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>Polyamide</strong> (Nylon) is a versatile material with <strong>excellent thermal and mechanical resistance.</strong> It is suitable for printing functional technical parts with high temperature and mechanical resistance requirements. However, it’s very hard to print and therefore recommended for experienced users only.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 285 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 110 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Special PA Nylon sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><strong>Polyamide is an extremely resilient material</strong>, resistant to abrasion, suitable especially for technical parts. It has excellent layer adhesion. In large volumes, it has great mechanical resistance, while in thin layers it remains flexible. Its coefficient of friction is low, <strong>melting temperature is high. However, polyamide is hygroscopic</strong>, so it is necessary to keep it dry (airtight with desiccant). Improper storage can lead it to absorb water weighing up to 10% of filament weight. Polyamides emit a strong odor with potentially dangerous ultrafine particles (UFPs) so printing in a well-ventilated room or in an enclosure is a must.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a>&nbsp;</p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Great mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Prone to warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Tough in large volumes, flexible in thin layers</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Highly hygroscopic material</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High-temperature resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of polyamide is for printing technical parts requiring <strong>great heat, chemical, and mechanical resistance.</strong> Pure polyamide is also good for making a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">cold pull cleaning</a>.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Keep the filament dry</strong></p>
<p>Dry the filament before printing, at least 4 hours with a temperature below 90 °C. Moist polyamide filament makes bubbles, which leads to uneven layers and an ugly surface.</p>
<p><strong>Print it in high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>Print settings are usually quite similar to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812">PC</a> - with nozzle temperature around 285 °C. Apart from moisture issues, <strong>the main disadvantage of pure polyamide is warping</strong>. <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/mmu2s-printer-enclosure_30215/">High ambient temperature (enclosure)</a> helps a lot. However, you can get polyamides filled with carbon fibers, like our Prusament PA11 Carbon Fiber. These filaments don't warp by far as much as the unaltered versions and can be printed without an enclosure.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 50px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 32px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 32px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Gears</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Bendable objects</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Polyamide (Nylon)

<p>PrusaSlicer separates the printer connection settings from the Printer profile into a <strong>Physical printer</strong> profile.</p>
<p>You can create a new Physical profile by clicking <em><strong>Add printer</strong></em> in the printer profile select box or by clicking the cog icon and picking <strong><em>Add physical printer</em></strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-600x181.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-800x241.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-300x90.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-768x231.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-1536x463.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-2048x617.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="503" height="152" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>In the Physical printer dialog, you can name the printer and assign it one <strong>or more</strong> printer profiles. If you're using, for example, the MMU2S upgrade, you only have to set one physical printer, but you can have both Single mode and MMU profiles linked to it.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-800x449.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-300x168.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-768x431.png 768w" alt="" width="561" height="315" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>If you have a Physical printer with network info filled out selected as your current printer, you can send generated G-codes directly to your device.</p>
<h3>PrusaConnect</h3>
<p>If you'd like to send files to your printer via PrusaConnect, add a Physical printer or Edit an existing one.</p>
<p>Select <em><strong>PrusaConnect</strong></em> from the select box as the <em><strong>Host</strong></em><strong> type</strong><em>.</em> The hostname/IP will be automatically filled, you don't have to change it.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/a6e53887e520db647ad830515ac5fb8a.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)" alt="" width="1121" height="711" /></p>
<p>To find your API key, go to PrusaConnect, select the printer you want to send the files to, go to the <em><strong>Settings </strong></em>tab and scroll down to he <em><strong>API keys </strong></em>section. Copy <em><strong>PrusaConnect API key</strong></em> to the Physical printer window and confirm with OK.</p>
<p><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/6b5c2148f1bc36255fed667a753a2c50_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)" alt="" width="1600" height="1054" /></strong></p>


Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)

<p>The Bondtech gears have a lot of pulling force. They might seem secure, but unless properly tightened, <strong>on the flat side of the motor's shaft,</strong> they can come loose and remain stationary around the spinning shaft. This might only be intermittent at first, acting like under extrusion, but the gear will continue to loosen and/or slide out of alignment with the filament path.</p>
<h3>Typical issue (false clog)</h3>
<p>This might appear as a clog at first, but you can see the motor axle rotating fully, and there is no clicking sound, which is common during a hotend clog. The filament is not moving at all and when pulled out, it does not look like it has been ground by the gear, hence the name "false or ghost clog".</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi-300x265.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi-453x400.jpg 453w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi-768x678.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Extrdueer-motor72dpi-680x600.jpg 680w" alt="" width="451" height="398" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="tip-callout" style="text-align: center;">It can be helpful to draw a line on the radius of the axle, to see if it spins or not.</div>
<h3>Accessing the Bondtech gear</h3>
<p>Start by getting out your 1,5 mm and 2.5 mm Allen keys. Using the 2.5 mm Allen key, release the spring-tensioned idler-screw(s) completely and open the idler door. It is 1 on the Original Prusa MK3S &amp; MK3S+ (left picture) and two on the Original Prusa MK3 (right picture). The MMU2S extruder has one screw, but some additional parts.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 99.7482%; height: 376px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 454px;">
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 358px; vertical-align: bottom;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="533" height="400" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 358px; vertical-align: bottom;"><em><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-534x400.jpg 534w" alt="" width="533" height="400" loading="lazy" /></em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3S &amp; MK3S+ / MK3.5</em></td>
<td style="width: 33.3333%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Original Prusa MK3 (Non S/+-upgrade)</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 436px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 400px;">
<td style="width: 100%; text-align: center; height: 400px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="533" height="400" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 100%; height: 36px;">
<p> <strong>On the Original Prusa MMU2S / MMU3, you must remove the whole idler door (<span style="color: #3598db;">blue arrows</span>), by removing</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>the screw acting as its hinge (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">red arrow</span>).</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">On the Original Prusa MK3S, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_28536#30456">remove the single screw on the top of the extruder</a> to remove the fil. sensor cover to open the idler door all the way.</div>
<h3>Rotating the motor's shaft</h3>
<p>You will now have access to the Bondtech gears. With the idler door open, we will check if the Bondtech gear is secured on the <strong>flat side of the motor shaft and if the gear is out of alignment with the filament path.</strong> We do not recommend moving the motor shaft by hand. The best is to start rotation from the LCD menu:</p>
<ul>
<li>Preheat the nozzle from the <em>LCD-menu -&gt; Setting -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Nozzle -&gt; 180 °C.</em> The firmware will not let you manually move the extruder motor unless heated to at least 175 °C.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The nozzle is now hot!</strong> Be careful so you do not burn yourself.</div>
<ul>
<li>Navigate the LCD menu to <em>Settings -&gt; Move axis -&gt; Extruder</em>, and you can now spin the extruder motor, with the knob on the LCD panel. </li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-300x290.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-413x400.jpg 413w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-768x743.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-620x600.jpg 620w" alt="" width="465" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Make sure the flat side of the motor shaft is visible (<span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>red lines</strong></span>), aligned with the black set-screw on the pulley (<span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>purple arrow</strong></span>), and that pulley grooves are aligned with the filament (<span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>green line</strong></span>).</p>
<div class="warning-callout">The set-screw may be stuck due to rust or Loctite. If you have to use a lot of force you may risk stripping the head of the screw. Consult with our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">technical support</a> before you use excessive force.</div>
<p>You can use a piece of filament, inserted from the top (<span style="color: #3598db;"><strong>blue arrow</strong>)</span>, to check alignment. Then use the 1.5 mm Allen wrench or your nail to move the Bondtech gear into position, before securing the set screw.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-600x600.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-768x768.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/aa928d37bf9ddb9e_painted-1536x1536.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="450" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Clean Bondtech gear</h3>
<p>Open the Extruder idler. You can see how to do it in our assembly manuals, section <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-e-axis-assembly_28536#29848">Extruder idler parts preparation</a>, in the E-axis assembly chapter. Clear any left-over filament, rust, or dust with a brush and inspect both gears.</p>
<p>It is recommended to use a <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/">Prusa Lubricant</a> or a PTFE-based grease. However, be careful not to overuse it, as it tends to accumulate dust particles over time. This procedure should be done roughly every 3-6 months, depending on how often you are using the printer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/cleaning-Bondtech-gear.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="267" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Put the lubricant on the Bondtech extruder gear teeth. <strong>Apply it only to the toothed part</strong> as seen in the right photo above. If you apply it to the whole gear, it will be unable to grab filament properly!</p>
<p>You can also inspect the needle bearings that are inside and clean them with a brush. However, these do not need any special care, just make sure that both of them are properly inserted.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Bondtech-need-bearings.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="174" loading="lazy" /></p>

Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)

<div><strong><img decoding="async" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-600x337.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-1536x863.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-2048x1151.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="400" height="225" loading="lazy" /></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>Composite materials</strong> (PC, PETG, Polyamide, PP, or other materials filled with carbon, glass, etc.) usually have different mechanical properties than unaltered filaments. Composite filaments have <strong>better dimensional stability,</strong> can be <strong>more lightweight,</strong> but printing with them requires a hardened nozzle.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 240-285 °C (depending on filament type)</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 70-110 °C (depending on filament type)</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Print surface preparation depends on the filament type. See our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table</a> to find out more.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p>Carbon, glass or kevlar fibers are mixed with various polymers in order to <strong>improve their mechanical properties.</strong> Some of our Prusaments are altered this way: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polyamide-nylon_167188">PA</a> (Nylon), <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812">PC</a> Blend and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polypropylene-pp_167126">PP</a>. Prusament <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059">PETG</a> Carbon Fiber black is filled with carbon fibers too, but just for aesthetic purposes. Fibers (in general) inside the filament improve its dimensional stability, making it lightweight and less susceptible to warping. It also increases high-temperature resistance and tensile yield strength but it usually decreases Charpy impact resistance and layer-to-layer adhesion. Printing temperatures are slightly higher than for unaltered filaments. Some cheap filaments may have worse print characteristics, for example <strong>often nozzle clogging, oozing, and filament breaking.</strong> </p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>✔ Good abrasion resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>✖ A hardened steel nozzle is needed</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>✔ Dimensional stability</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>✖ Filament more brittle</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>✔ Similar printing temperature to single material filaments</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>✖ Worse layer-to-layer adhesion</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>✔ Nice look</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>✖ High risk of nozzle clogging</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>Composite filaments are mostly used for making <strong>RC models</strong> (drone frames, airframes, car parts, etc.), in <strong>the aircraft industry</strong> (functional prototypes) and <strong>automobile industry</strong> (functional prototypes). However, it usually carries properties of unaltered polymers: PP and PA have great chemical resistance, for example.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Use a hardened nozzle</strong></p>
<p>Carbon, glass and kevlar fibers are <strong>highly abrasive</strong> so it is necessary to use <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/hardened-steel-nozzle-e3d-v6/">a hardened nozzle.</a></p>
<p><strong>Clean the nozzle before printing</strong></p>
<p>It’s good to make <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075"><strong>cold pull</strong></a> before printing to make sure that the nozzle is really clean.</p>
<p><strong>First layer settings</strong></p>
<p>The first layer should be <strong>perfectly fine</strong>, otherwise, you risk the nozzle clogging. The higher the layer height is and the wider the nozzle diameter is, the lower the chance of clogging the nozzle is. The lowest optimal values are 0.4mm nozzle diameter and 0.2mm layer height.</p>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Print surface preparation depends on the filament type. See our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table</a> to find out more.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-600x337.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-1536x863.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-2048x1151.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>RC drone frame</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Turbine</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-2048x1366.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1680" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"> </td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Turboprop</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"> </td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Composite materials (filled with carbon, kevlar or glass)

<p>The best way to get started with 3D printing is to find pre-made models on the internet - they should be in the <strong>.stl, .obj or .3mf</strong> format to be used with PrusaSlicer. Fortunately, 3D printing has fans all over the world, and there are some great websites, where you can download a large variety of awesome 3D models.</p>
<p>3D models are generally free to download under the <strong>Creative Commons -&nbsp;Attribution -&nbsp;Non Commercial licenses,</strong> which means models are not to be used commercially. Otherwise, you must always credit the author. In some cases, you can download the models for a small fee and support the authors.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Printables.com</h3>
<p>We have released our own platform, <a href="https://www.printables.com/">Printables.com</a>. There you can download both object files and pre-made GCODE files, for thousands of projects.</p>
<p>The <a href="https://www.printables.com/">Printables.com</a> platform is also built around the community, and using <a href="https://www.printables.com/group/discover">the 'Groups' feature</a> you will be able to find likeminded people in your area, create cooperations and connections with other makers.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED-600x373.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED-800x497.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED-300x186.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED-768x477.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="373"></p>
<h3>Other platforms</h3>
<p>There are plenty of platforms out there to pick from, but here is a list we have found helpful, in no particular order. Some of these platforms have both free and paid models, depending on your budget or need.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com">www.thingiverse.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.pinshape.com">www.pinshape.com</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youmagine.com">www.youmagine.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.yeggi.com">www.yeggi.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.myminifactory.com">www.myminifactory.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.cults3d.com">www.cults3d.com</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Preparing downloaded models for printing</h3>
<p>Before you can start printing them, you need to convert them into .gcode files first, <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/prusaslicer_204">using a slicer</a>. We recommend PrusaSlicer, as it is powerful, open-source, and contains built-in presets and configurations for all Original Prusa 3D printers and a few others.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Once downloading other people's models becomes a little dull, you can start creating your very own models. A great start to 3D modeling is our article&nbsp;<strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/creating-your-own-3d-models_2209">Creating your own 3D models</a>.</strong></div>


Where can you get 3D models?

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>HIPS</strong> is a tough material suitable for printing large objects or supports for large models printed from ABS, ASA, or PETG. It has good print surface adhesion and can be dissolved in limonene (or acetone, although that would melt the ABS/ASA model as well).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 220 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 110 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> All of our (smooth PEI, powder-coated TXT and powder-coated satin) sheets will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><strong>HIPS</strong> (High Impact Polystyrene) is polystyrene with rubber additives. It has good mechanical properties and dimensional stability. Print and mechanical parameters <strong>resemble</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058"><strong>ABS</strong></a><strong>,</strong> but <strong>HIPS</strong> is lighter and <strong>shrinks much less.</strong> It can be dissolved with <strong>limonene (d-Limonene to be specific)</strong> - therefore is usable for printing soluble supports for more complicated <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a>, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809">ASA</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059">PETG</a> prints. <strong>HIPS can be sanded,</strong> just as ABS and ASA, plus it can be attached to a print surface with ABS dissolved in acetone - this is not needed when using our print sheets though, as HIPS sticks well enough to PEI surface.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 209px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 45.964%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 53.3249%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 45.964%;">
<p>✔ Good mechanical properties</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 53.3249%;">
<p>✖ Printing HIPS supports might be challenging</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 45.964%;">
<p>✔ Limonene or acetone soluble</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 53.3249%;">
<p>✖ ABS or ASA might also partially dissolve in limonene</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 45.964%;">
<p>✔ Soluble support material</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 53.3249%;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of HIPS is as a soluble support material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Printing supports might be challenging</strong></p>
<p>Keep in mind that printing ASA, ABS, or PETG with HIPS supports might be challenging if you use <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/set-original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>. Are you beginning to print with MMU2S? Try to print with PLA or PETG first to gain some experience, then try to print with soluble supports. MMU2S unit must be well calibrated for printing with HIPS and even then it might need user attention from time to time.</p>
<p><strong>Brim function</strong></p>
<p>In some cases, HIPS might not stick to the print surface as good as, for example, ASA. In that case, we suggest using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969"><strong>brim function</strong></a>, especially for parts with a small contact area.</p>
<h3><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Dissolving with limonene</strong></p>
<p>HIPS can be smoothed and <strong>dissolved with limonene and acetone.</strong> However, with limonene, you cannot utilize its fumes (as we do it with ABS or ASA), as it is an oily substance. For successful smoothing, sink the model for several seconds (10-20 s should be enough) into a limonene bath. Then let it dry for at least 24 hours (a slight temperature increase might speed up the drying process). Keep in mind that residual limonene might remain on the surface long after drying and that the model itself will have a citrus smell for a long time.</p>
<p><strong>Limonene over-exposure</strong></p>
<p>Although HIPS is being used for printing ABS/ASA/PETG supports and will dissolve completely after long exposure to limonene, it is <strong>not wise to expose it to the solvent for too long.</strong> Some of the ABS and ASA filaments (Prusament ASA Orange for example) are also affected by limonene - it will disrupt the layer adhesion and the model will fall apart into tiny flakes. Instead of dissolving the supports completely, try to just loosen them up by a brief submersion into limonene, then remove the supports manually.</p>
<p><strong>Acetone smoothing</strong></p>
<p>HIPS acetone smoothing is much easier than smoothing ABS or ASA. HIPS layers will melt <strong>almost immediately</strong> (the whole process takes just a few minutes), plus models tend to dry much faster than ASA and ABS - where you can safely touch them sooner.</p>
<p>Find out more about chemical smoothing in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/%7C">blog article.</a></p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 204px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 186px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 186px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Dissolving HIPS supports with limonene</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Acetone/limonene smoothed models</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


HIPS


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0


<ul>
<li>Issues with numeric keyboard repaired (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)</li>



<li>Returned nozzle diameter setup (XL)</li>



<li>Printhead position during calibrations changed (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Cold pull (XL)</li>
</ul>


6.1.3

1.00


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.1


<p>Correction of product information</p>



<p>Minor content updates</p>


1.01


<ul>
<li>Multiple beds and bulk export</li>



<li>Scarf seams</li>



<li>Printables integration</li>



<li>Paint-on fuzzy skin</li>



<li>Improvements in painting tools and multi-material slicing</li>



<li>Basic support for printing with different nozzle diameters</li>
</ul>


2.9.0


<ul>
<li>Added an option to save printer logs to a text file</li>



<li>Expanded GPIO functionality (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Toolhead and hardware menu overhaul</li>



<li>Improved filament management</li>



<li>“Set Ready” button</li>



<li>Connect header status icon</li>



<li>Nozzle information for Prusa Connect</li>



<li>Mapping screen from Prusa Connect</li>



<li>Japanese language support on MINI</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MK3.5S

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