MK3.5

Shipping information

Infill patterns

<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero. </strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value. </strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" loading="lazy" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high. </strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Having the nozzle too low can cause the nozzle to damage your steel sheet. This is not covered by <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/warranty_2288">Warranty</a>.</div>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w" /></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet! </strong>For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg" /></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the <strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<div class="warning-callout">This is an&nbsp;<strong>advanced calibration</strong>, recommended only to&nbsp;<strong>experienced users</strong>.</div>
<p>The Extrusion Multiplier allows the fine-tuning of the extrusion flow rate - simply described as&nbsp;<strong>how much filament comes out of the nozzle</strong>. In other words, the&nbsp;<strong>Extrusion Multiplier</strong>&nbsp;setting in PrusaSlicer and the&nbsp;<strong>Flow rate</strong>&nbsp;setting in printer firmware are two ways to adjust the same thing, however, adjusting one of those two settings will not influence the value of the other.</p>
<p><strong>This procedure is not necessary with a new printer coming from the factory</strong>, but rather applies for specific applications and filaments. The ideal value is different for every type of material and every color. It can even differ from spool to spool. Bear this in mind if you change type and brand of filament often or use cheap no-name brands.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Total flow rate = <strong>Flow multiplier</strong> in firmware (M221) x <strong>Extrusion multiplier</strong> in PrusaSlicer. For those interested in diving deeper, PrusaSlicer uses the same <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Flow math as Slic3r</a>.</div>
<h3><strong>How to spot an issue</strong></h3>
<p>This calibration is used to fix two common problems:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Overextrusion</strong> - Too much material is extruded (flow is too high). It causes scarring of bottom layers and unnecessary material buildup on top layers.</li>
<li><strong>Minor under extrusion</strong>&nbsp;- Not enough material is extruded (flow is too low). It causes small gaps that appear between layer lines or perimeters.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-600x282.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-800x376.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-300x141.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-768x361.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-1536x721.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="852" height="400"></p>
<p><strong>Overextrusion</strong> is a common problem with many filament brands. It's especially problematic when you're trying to glue two parts of the model. <strong>If the top layer is over extruded, you'll end up with an uneven surface that will prevent a seamless connection between the two pieces.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>How to do the calibration</strong></h3>
<p>In PrusaSlicer, navigate to <span class="key">Filament Settings</span> and look for Extrusion Multiplier. The default setting (for PLA) is 1, this value represents a percentage, 1 = 100%, 0.95 = 95% etc. Usually, the adjusted values can be between 0.9 and 1.1. To adjust it, simply rewrite the value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 200px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/image-2019-1-15-12-55-6.png" data-hd-height="200px"></p>
<p>In the printer menu, during a print, go to the Tune menu and then choose Flow. Again, the usual values can range between 90 and 110, although that does not mean you can't go above or below that.</p>
<h4>Which method should I use?</h4>
<p>There are two methods you can use to calibrate the Extrusion Multiplier, and we'll cover both of them in this article:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Precise Method</strong>&nbsp; -&nbsp; using precision tools such as calipers or micrometers.</li>
<li><strong>Visual Method&nbsp;</strong>&nbsp;- an easy method based on observing the visual properties of your models.</li>
</ul>
<p>The choice of the method depends entirely on your preferences; in the end, both yield similar results. Even the visual method will enable you to have perfectly fitting parts with smooth &amp; flat top layers.</p>
<h4>Precise Method</h4>
<div class="note-callout">Please note that the following guide is based on <strong>default</strong> PrusaSlicer 0.4 nozzle profiles, with a layer height of 0.1mm - 0.2mm. This means that:<br />
- Nozzle size = 0.4<br />
- Extrusion width =&nbsp;0.45<br />
- Basic materials (PLA, ABS, PETG) Extrusion Multiplier = 1<br />
<strong>If you wish to calibrate the printer with a bigger/smaller nozzle or layer heights above 0.2, then you will need to adjust these values as well.</strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/cube-40-40-40.zip">Precision Method Cube STL</a>.</li>
<li>Slice it using the Vase Mode and your most-often used layer height and print it. You can find Vase mode (Print Settings →&nbsp; Layers and perimeters →&nbsp; Spiral vase).</li>
<li>Make three or more measurements in the middle of each wall and calculate the overall average thickness.</li>
<li>Calculate the extrusion multiplier using the following formula: <strong>Extrusion multiplier = (Extrusion width (0.45) / Average measured wall thickness)</strong>.</li>
<li>Adjust the Extrusion Multiplier in Filament Settings → Filament</li>
<li>Re-print the cube with new settings and go back to step 3 if necessary.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 220px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/micrometer-small-jpg.JPG" height="400" data-hd-height="220px"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that cheap digital calipers may not be accurate enough to make reliable measurements of a single perimeter wall.</div>
<h4>Visual Method</h4>
<p>This method does not require any tools, only your sight. The point is to make sure your top layers are <strong>smooth</strong>, <strong>shiny,</strong> and without <strong>scarring or filament buildup</strong> near the perimeters.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-600x374.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-800x499.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-300x187.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-768x479.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-1536x958.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="641" height="400"></p>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/visual-method-cube.zip">Visual Method Cube.stl</a></li>
<li>Slice it using the default Prusa PLA presets at 0.20mm layer height and print it.</li>
<li>Inspect the top layer of your cube visually and with the tip of the finger.</li>
<li>If the top is under extruded or not smooth, then re-adjust the Extrusion Multiplier accordingly by 1-2%.</li>
<li>Repeat the steps above as long as needed.</li>
</ol>
<p>If there is&nbsp;<strong>too much material</strong>&nbsp;near the perimeters,&nbsp;<strong>decrease</strong>&nbsp;the Extrusion Multiplier value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 390px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/buildu.jpg" data-hd-height="390px" data-hd-align="left"></p>
<p>If there are&nbsp;<strong>visible gaps</strong>&nbsp;between layer lines,&nbsp;<strong>increase</strong> the Extrusion Multiplier value. (Microscopic gaps near the perimeters are OK.)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 430px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/gaps.jpg" data-hd-height="430px" data-hd-align="left"></p>


Extrusion multiplier calibration

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

Original Prusa i3 MK3S/MK3S+ to MK3.5 upgrade

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Printer troubleshooting

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

2. Parts check

3. Printer dissasembly

4. xBuddy assembly

5. xLCD & PSU assembly

6. Heatbed upgrade

7. Extruder upgrade

8. Preflight check

Manual changelog MK3.5 upgrade

<p>A 3D printer's hotend can get clogged. This article explains the most common causes of this issue, which are usually the same regardless of the printer type or model. We then have a separate article with tips on how to prevent the clog from forming in the first place.</p>
<h3>What does it look like</h3>
<p>The most obvious symptom is that the filament is <strong>not coming out of the nozzle</strong>. However, please note that the hotend can also be clogged only partially. <strong>Partial clogs</strong> usually reveal themselves <strong>mid-print</strong>, even after you were able to load or unload the filament.</p>
<p>Early signs of the nozzle starting to clog are:</p>
<ul>
<li>The filament is not extruded out of the nozzle consistently</li>
<li>Printed lines look much thinner and sometimes not sticking to the build plate.</li>
<li>The extruded filament is curling up and sticks to the nozzle when purged.</li>
</ul>
<p>Another common sign is that you can hear some <strong>clicking</strong> or ticking <strong>sounds from the extruder</strong>. The extruder clicking noise means that the stepper motor has to exert more force than a specific preset threshold and it's jumping back by one or more steps (skipping) to relieve the pressure.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">It is important to know that having a <strong>clogged hotend is not the same thing as having a clogged nozzle</strong>. The clog might be located in the PTFE tube (inserted in the heatsink) or elsewhere, so <strong>changing the nozzle is not a universal solution to this problem</strong>.</div>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 400px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/p-1000825-e.png" data-hd-height="400px" data-hd-align="center"></td>
<td><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 330px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/clo.png" data-hd-height="330px" data-hd-align="center"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>How to fix it</h3>
<p>There are three main methods of dealing with this problem. To choose the right method, see whether or not it is possible to load/ unload the filament. Partial clogs can usually be melted or cold pulled, more complex clogs that prevent even loading of the filament call for the third method described below.</p>
<p>Before you begin with any of these methods, <strong>unload the filament</strong> and remove it from the extruder. To make the work easier, <strong>move the extruder head up 10-15 cm</strong> from the <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Move axis -&gt; Move Z-axis</em>.</p>
<h4>Cold pull</h4>
<p>A cold pull is a good place to start if you experience a clog. If the filament can be loaded and unloaded without any problem, yet it still causes trouble during the print, clean the inside of your hotend using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk3-5-s_2075">Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)</a> technique.</p>
<h4>Force the clog out</h4>
<p>In case it is not possible to load the filament, try to soften the clog by increasing the nozzle temperature and then force it out. This is similar to the cold pull procedure.</p>
<p><strong>To avoid any complication, toggle the Filament autoload OFF in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. autoload,</em></strong> before proceeding<em>.</em></p>
<ol>
<li>Go to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. Set the nozzle temperature to 260 °C if you have been using PLA or to 280 °C if you have been using PETG or ABS.</li>
<li>After the nozzle reaches the required temperature, wait for 2 minutes - the filament should start pouring/dripping out.</li>
<li>Push the <strong>bundled acupuncture needle</strong> (0,3 mm to 0,35 mm diameter) into the nozzle <strong>from below.</strong> Insert it 1-2 cm deep, to help clear the clog. <strong>Never feed it in from the top and do not load filament while the needle is inserted.</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)">Be careful not to touch the hot nozzle with your hand!</span></span></div>
<ol start="4">
<li>If that did not help, try using a 1.5 mm thick 100 mm long, straight, rigid metal wire: insert it into the hotend to see how far it can go and push on it, trying to force the filament down into the nozzle and then out. You can also use the smallest of the bundled Allen keys. It is not very long though, so remove the filament sensor cover to reach further.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Be very careful when manipulating this wire, we don't want to damage the hobbed gears or the PTFE tube.</div>
<ol start="5">
<li>Load some PLA filament. The new string should push the rest of the stuck material from the nozzle.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Clean the hotend parts</h4>
<p>If you didn't succeed, it is important to determine where exactly is the clog located. As said earlier, a clogged hotend is not the same as a clogged nozzle: the material can be jammed even above it.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you did not succeed to force the clog out, at least you can now estimate where does the clog starts based on how deep did the wire goes.</div>
<p>Open the Extruder Idler door and check if you won't see a piece of the filament sticking out of the PTFE tube.</p>
<ul>
<li>If you have an MK2/S, unscrew <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/Pi51Q431dI24DKDR.jpg">both M3x40 screws</a> with springs, the door should then open by itself.</li>
<li>If you have an MK3 or an MK2.5, unscrew <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/pJ12NOO1UYDu2vej.jpg">both M3x40 screws</a> under the hexagonal window (they also have springs on them).</li>
<li>If you have an MK3S or an MK2.5S, unscrew the single <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/3mQKqKUUYTLfaxL3.jpg">M3x40 screw</a> (also with a spring).</li>
</ul>
<h4><strong>Filament stuck in the PTFE tube</strong></h4>
<p>If the filament is stuck in the white Teflon tube, you need to take the hotend out from the extruder. Use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">this guide</a> to do so (steps 2 - 5). You will be left with the hotend exposed, hanging in front of you. Preheat it via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Nozzle (260 °C if you have been using PLA or to 280 °C if you have been using PETG or ABS)</em> and see if you can remove the filament by pulling it up from the PTFE tube using pliers.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)"><span data-hd-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)">Be careful not to touch the hot metal parts!</span></span></div>
<p>Sometimes, it is necessary to remove the PTFE tube, in which case you need to push the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/YQ3xHHYCK3H3JXXa.jpg">black nylon collet</a> down towards the heatsink, in order to release it. While still pushing down on the collet, pull the PTFE tube out.</p>
<p>If the PTFE tube has been permanently damaged by the clog or in the process of removing it, <strong>you can purchase a new one</strong> in our online store (<a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/929-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk25s-mk3s-mmu2s.html">MK3S, MK2.5S</a> or <a>MK2/S, MK3, MK2.5</a>). When you insert the new PTFE tube, make sure again it is properly secured by the collet: you need to pull the collet up about 1 mm while, at the same time, pushing the PTFE tube down. Doing this will ensure there is no play as <strong>the PTFE tube cannot move</strong> inside the hotend. <strong>Failure to secure the PTFE tube can cause clogging.</strong></p>
<h4><strong>Filament stuck inside the nozzle</strong></h4>
<p>If the PTFE tube is empty, some debris might be stuck in the nozzle. Unscrew it from the heater block (check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-mk3-5-s_2069">this guide</a> to see how to do that). There are two ways to clean it: mechanically or using chemical solvents.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your nozzle has seen a lot of use, and/or is old it might be better to just replace it.</div>
<ul>
<li>To clean the nozzle mechanically, once it is removed from the hotend, heat it up using a heat gun or possibly a hairdryer, and extract the stuck matter with needle-nose pliers or a pair of tweezers.</li>
<li>If you were using PLA or ABS, it is possible to clean the nozzle chemically. ABS dissolves in acetone and PLA in tetrahydrofuran or ethyl acetate. Immerse your nozzle into one of these substances for a couple of hours to overnight and then use the needle-nose pliers or a pair of tweezers to remove the gooey mass.</li>
</ul>
<h3>After resolving the clog</h3>
<h4>Clean the Bondtech gears</h4>
<p>If you have had a clog, they can also have collected residue grinding the filament which will, in turn, reduce their grabbing force on the filament. Make sure you clean this out. Open the idler door and clean out each groove of the gear using a toothpick or the acupuncture needle that came with the printer.</p>
<p>Cover the PTFE tube to avoid any debris falling in. You can use a cotton swab - it will reliably cover the tube without damaging it). After you're done cleaning, give it a good puff of air to clear any remains, while the PTFE tube is still covered.</p>
<h4>Calibration</h4>
<p>If you have changed the nozzle you should redo, at least, the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration</a>, as this may have changed with the new nozzle.</p>
<p>If you have disassembled and reassembled the extruder and/or hotend, we recommend going through the full XYZ calibration, followed by the First Layer Calibration.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_112351">XYZ Calibration (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk2-5-mk2-5s_199651">XYZ Calibration (MK2.5/MK2.5S)</a></li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">To <strong>prevent this problem from happening again,</strong> check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">this article</a> to make sure you're doing everything correctly.</div>


Clogged nozzle/hotend (MK3.5/S, MK3S+, MK2.5S)

<p>Each Original Prusa printer is shipped with a bundle of sample G-codes. These G-codes are tested and tailored specifically for your printer model and can be used either to see the printer capabilities or for troubleshooting.</p>
<p>Find your printer in the table and download the zip archive. Both the model geometry (.stl/.3mf) and the presliced version (.gcode) are included.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find all the printable parts on our <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Prusa3D/collections/54487">Printables page</a>.</div>
<h2>Original Prusa FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 594px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 18px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MK4S/MK3.9S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK39S-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4S-MK3.9S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">MK4/MK3.9</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK4-MK39-gcodes.zip">link</a>*</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MK3.5/S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK3S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3family-3dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MK3-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;">TBA</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MINI+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">MINI</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MINI%2B_MINI-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 18px;">XL 1T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 18px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 18px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-1T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 2T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-2T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">XL 5T</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/XL-5T-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU3-MK3S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2S &amp; MK3S/+</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3S%2B_MK3S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MMU2S &amp; MK2.5S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25S_MMU2S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU2 &amp; MK3</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK3_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 33.1288%;">MMU2 &amp; MK2.5</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU2S_MMU2-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK25_MMU2-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 36px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 36px;">MMU1 &amp; MK2</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 36px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 36px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MMU1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/MK2MMU-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>*The archive includes G-codes for both MK4 and MK3.9 printers. G-codes are sliced for Input Shaper and older non-Input Shaper firmware. To print the Input Shaper G-codes, please make sure your printer is running <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware 5.0.0 or newer</a>.</em></p>
<h2>Original Prusa SLA Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 73px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1S</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1S-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px;">Original Prusa SL1</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 21px;">MSLA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-3Dmodels.zip">link</a></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/SL1-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Prusa Pro FFF Series</h2>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 31px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>Printer model</strong></td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>Printer type</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 21px; text-align: left;"><strong>3D models</strong></td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; text-align: left; height: 21px;"><strong>G-codes</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 10px;">
<td style="width: 33.1288%; height: 10px;">Prusa Pro HT90</td>
<td style="width: 16.9325%; height: 10px;">FFF</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;">TBA</td>
<td style="width: 25.0307%; height: 10px;"><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/SampleModelsGcodes/HT90-gcodes.zip">link</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p> </p>


Sample G-codes

<p>As there are ways of remotely transferring files and starting prints, an SD card or USB flash drive is the most common and reliable way to get your files to your machine. Though common and convenient, flash memory is not the most reliable in itself and your storage can be corrupted or fill up without any obvious signs. Therefore, we have put together a small guide on how to maintain, format, and purchase memory for your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<h3>Make sure your SD card is not locked!</h3>
<p>The SD card has a latch on the side. Before using your SD card, make sure that the latch is not set to the Locked position. In case it is locked, you will not be able to save files on the card, and the printer will not be able to open the SD card.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-300x293.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-410x400.jpg 410w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>Storage over 32 GB</h3>
<p>There is no upper size limit on compatible storage media, but <strong>the built-in Windows formatting tool does not support formatting storage media from a size of 32 GB or more to FAT32.</strong> It will only provide the option for exFAT, which is currently not supported by our printers. There are similar limitations under various versions of Apple's OSx, where a third-party application must be used to format it correctly.</p>
<p>To format such a drive you need a third-party application, like Rufus, FAT32 format, or EaseUS Partition Master. <strong>Be careful when using such programs</strong> so you do not <strong>accidentally format the wrong storage media</strong>, like your hard drive. However, 8-16 GB is more than enough for most use cases, as a G-code file rarely exceeds 100 MB.</p>
<h3>How do I format the USB drive/SD card?</h3>
<p>If your SD card or USB drive is full or if you can't read the content of the drive, but the drive is recognized by windows, most often all you need to do is to format the drive.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your USB drive or SD card does not even show up in your computer file explorer it is probably corrupted beyond repair, or at least beyond the scale of this article. If you get an error like the one in the picture below and it does not show up anywhere, off to google you go, but you might have to consider this card/USB drive lost and get a new one.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-800x317.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-768x304.jpg 768w" alt="" width="631" height="250"></p>
<h3>How to format on Windows</h3>
<p>On Windows, this is very simple. Locate your USB drive or SD card in my computer, right-click, and choose format.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-300x288.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-417x400.png 417w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-768x737.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-625x600.png 625w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>A new small window will pop up. Most of the time you can simply leave everything to default, but the most important thing is that the <strong>File System is set to FAT32.</strong> This and the Volume Label (Name of the drive) is the only thing you want to touch here. Click Start and your drive will be formatted in a matter of seconds.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Formatting any drive will delete all the content of the drive! Back up your stuff!</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-166x300.png 166w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-222x400.png 222w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04.png" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="note-callout">If the USB stick will not work even after this procedure, it is either broken or its "partitioning scheme" is set as GPT, which is incorrect. <strong>It must be set as MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong> For how to change this, please see <a href="https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/storage/disk-management/change-a-gpt-disk-into-an-mbr-disk">Microsoft's official documentation</a>.</div>
<h3>How to format on Mac</h3>
<p>On Mac, it is a few more steps, but still very accessible. Again, you want to choose <strong>FAT32 as your file system</strong>, but you also have the option of changing the "partitioning scheme", which <strong>should always be MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">This process deletes all content from the drive.</div>
<ol>
<li>Plug the USB drive or SD card into your Mac.</li>
<li>Go to <em>Applications -&gt; Utilities</em> and launch <em>Disk Utility.</em></li>
<li>Click on the icon in the top-left (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow</span>) and select "Show All Devices" from the drop-down menu.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>Right-click on the USB drive/SD card in the sidebar under "External". <em>Select the top entry for your drive, not a partition located below.</em></li>
<li>Select Erase in the Disk Utility-toolbar (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="6">
<li>Enter a name for the formatted disk.</li>
<li>Click on the Format menu and choose MS-DOS (FAT).</li>
<li>Make sure the Scheme is set to "Master Boot Record".</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-600x301.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-800x401.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-300x150.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-768x385.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-1536x771.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-2048x1027.png 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="251"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="9">
<li>Click Erase.</li>
<li>Your USB drive will now be erased and re-formatted correctly.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">If your SD card is not detected by the printer at all, be sure to check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-card-not-working_2095">SD card not working</a> for further information.</div>

SD cards and USB drives

<p>Filament grinding, which is accompanied by a “clicking” or "squeaking " sound coming from the extruder, usually happens when the extruder gears are unable to push the filament further towards the nozzle. Over time, the gears grind away the filament, until they can’t grab it anymore.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you have questions or issues regarding <strong>vibration noises</strong> from the printer, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vibration-when-printing-mk3s-mk2-5s_2177">Vibration when printing (MK3S+/MK2.5S)</a>.</div>
<p>The clicking sound means that the stepper motor is having to suddenly exert more force than a specific preset threshold and it's jumping back by one or more steps (skipping) to relieve the pressure. It can be a mechanical issue, electrical issue, software issue, jammed/clogged hotend, or a combination of this.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">First, you need to remove the filament from the extruder. If the filament has been ground through and can not be unloaded from the LCD menu, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/removing-filament-from-extruder-manually_121491">follow this guide to manually remove it.</a></div>
<h2>Possible causes</h2>
<h3>Slicing</h3>
<p>Slice the model again using the&nbsp;<strong>latest version of PrusaSlicer and its filament presets</strong>. Also, see if the 3D model is not corrupted or incomplete.</p>
<p>Try to increase the <strong>hotend temperature</strong> (Filament settings -&gt; Filament -&gt; Temperature °C) <strong>by 5 - 15</strong> °C. It is important to make sure the temperature is corrected for the filament being printed. You can check our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">Extensive Material table</a> to confirm your settings.</p>
<h3>First Layer calibration</h3>
<p>Having the first layer calibration set too close can eventually cause a clogged hotend. Make sure you have it set just right, as instructed in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-mini-mini_229122">First Layer Calibration (MINI/MINI+)</a>.</p>
<h3>Idler tension</h3>
<p>Make sure that your extruder idler is properly tightened. If the extruder idler screws are overtightened, the gears will not push the filament properly. Try to loosen (or tighten) the&nbsp;<strong>extruder idler screw(s)</strong> (with the spring). Their tension must be accurate (neither too tight nor too loose). Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">Idler screw tension</a> for how it should be on your printer.</p>
<h3>Drive gears alignment</h3>
<p>Double-check the <strong>alignment</strong> of both extruder gears. Both of them must be aligned with the opening above and with the PTFE tube below so that they can properly feed the filament into the hotend. Make sure the gear on the extruder motor shaft is tightened by its grub screw against the flat part of the motor axis.</p>
<p>Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176">Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)</a> for more information regarding the MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+ or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-access-and-clean-the-extruder-pulley-mini-mini_126457">this article for the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+</a>.</p>
<h3>Dirty extruder gears</h3>
<ul>
<li>Make sure that your extruder gears are clear of any leftover plastic. You can clear the plastic with a sharp corner of pliers or with a durable pin.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Make sure the gears are turning freely</li>
<li>Check if the motor gear is aligned and tightened with the grub screw against the flat part of the motor axis</li>
</ul>
<p>Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176">Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)</a> for more information regarding the MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+ or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-access-and-clean-the-extruder-pulley-mini-mini_126457">this article for the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+</a>.</p>
<h3>Jammed PTFE tube</h3>
<p>While checking the extruder gears, take a look at the PTFE tube as well and make sure there is no debris in it that would prevent the filament from being loaded properly. To inspect the PTFE tube, open the extruder idler door. For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/removing-filament-from-extruder-manually_121491">Removing filament from extruder manually</a>.</p>
<h3>Hotend assembly</h3>
<p>Verify, whether the&nbsp;<strong>nozzle is properly assembled</strong>&nbsp;into the heater block:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>See if the heater block and the nozzle are not crooked.</li>
<li>Is there a space of 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) between the nozzle head and the heater block as it should be?</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted.png" alt="" width="500" height="227"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/under-extrusion_2007">Under-extrusion</a> where we go through all the usual causes of extrusion-related problems.</div>
<h3>Clogged hotend</h3>
<p>Please follow <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">this article</a> to clean your hotend, as the hotend might be clogged. If you don't manage to clean the clog, you would have to <strong>take out the hotend</strong>&nbsp;from the extruder, disassemble it completely, clean it thoroughly and apply some<strong>&nbsp;extra thermal paste</strong> on the heatbreak before assembling the hotend back together.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If you need to change one of the components of your hotend, refer to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heatsink-heaterblock-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_16104">this guide</a> (for MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S. For MK3/MK2.5, there is a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heaterblock-heatsink-mk3-mk2-5_14944">separate guide</a>).</div>


Extruder noises

<p>The blob (mass of plastic accumulated around the hotend) is one of the most scary-looking printing problems you might face with your 3D printer. Removing it after it happens is quite tricky, though not impossible.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that damage caused by the blob is <strong>not covered by the warranty</strong> as it is neither hardware nor software related. It can be prevented by properly calibrating the printer as well as by stopping the print as soon as the filament starts to stick to the nozzle.<br />See the <strong>Safety Instructions</strong> on the 3D Printing Handbook bundled with each of our printers. <strong>Do not leave the printer unattended while it's switched on.</strong></div>
<p>We prepared a short video on how to remove an extruder blob. The video features our Original Prusa MK3, but the same principles of heating the filament blob in order to soften it and carefully removing it with pliers <strong>apply to all our FDM printer models.</strong> </p>
<h3>How to clear the extruder blob</h3>
<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mSmJKjibMT0" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" loading="lazy"></iframe></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before doing anything, please note that the cables of the hotend thermistor and the heater cartridge are most likely entangled in the blob. The heater cartridge cable in particular is very vulnerable as <strong>its insulation ends before the wire enters the cartridge body. </strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Preheat the nozzle in the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings/Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. The temperature needs to be approximately 30°C higher than the temperature at which the blob has formed. For example, if the blob is made of:
<ul style="list-style-type: square;">
<li><strong>PLA: </strong>preheat to 250<strong>°</strong>C</li>
<li><strong>ABS/PETG:</strong> preheat to 280<strong>°</strong>C</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">On MK3/S/+, it is also possible to preheat the printer through the <em>Preheat</em> menu, but note that a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/thermal-model-calibration_382488">Thermal anomaly error</a> might happen.</div>
<ol>
<li>If <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/mintemp-error-and-mintemp-bed_2169">MINTEMP</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/preheat-error_2163">Preheat error</a> message appears on the LCD, it means the thermistor or the heater cable (respectively) is already broken. In this case, your only option is to use a heat gun to heat the plastic. Work very carefully, you don't want to melt the printed parts surrounding the hotend. Clear the blob little by little.</li>
<li>After the hotend reaches the right temperature, leave it this way for at least 5 minutes. <strong><em>Turn the printer off before the next step, or you might cause an electrical short.<br /></em></strong></li>
<li>Smaller blobs will start to fall off by themselves. As for the bigger ones, use a pair of pliers to remove the now soft plastic mass from the hotend carefully. Again, be very cautious around the leads coming from the hot end, in particular, the thermistor leads.<em><strong><br /></strong></em></li>
<li>Once the big chunks of the amassed plastic are removed, use a small brass brush to get rid of what's left (as shown in the video above).</li>
<li>In case you do not succeed, as well as in case the blob has damaged some of the extruder parts, you can find your spare parts <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/18-spare-parts">here</a>. To see the spare parts section, you have to be logged into the account you used to purchase the printer.</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong>How to prevent this problem from happening</strong></h3>
<p>Unlike the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/spaghetti-monster_1999">Spaghetti monster</a> issue, the blob issue often occurs early during the print. In general, the blob forms if the first layer detaches from the print surface and sticks to the moving hot nozzle while it keeps extruding, causing the blob to grow.</p>
<p>In order to prevent this situation from happening, bear in mind these simple rules:</p>
<ul>
<li>Always make sure to <strong>clean the print surface</strong> before starting the print. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804"><u>this guide</u></a> for more details.</li>
<li>Take the time to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364"><u>adjust the first layer height</u></a> at the beginning of the print. Make sure that the first layer is sticking properly to the entire print surface.
<div class="tip-callout">This step does not apply to Original Prusa MK4, MK3.9, XL, as they are equipped with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">loadcell</a>, although minor first layer adjustment is still possible on these printers. </div>
</li>
<li><strong>Check the print every now and then.</strong> If you observe any potential problem, pause the print and give yourself the time to solve it. As a last resort, you can always stop the print, adjust the settings, and start again.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Silicone sock</h3>
<p>Consider installing a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/nextruder-silicone-sock-xl-mk4-mk3-9_641415">silicone sock</a>. This is <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-nextruder-silicone-sock-set/">available in our shop</a> for <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S</strong>, and <strong>XL</strong>. Although the component does not prevent extruder blobs, in case this occurs, it makes it easier to remove it. </p>


Extruder blob

<h3>Why the name spaghetti monster?</h3>
<p>This print issue looks exactly like it sounds, a big mess of "spaghetti" on and around your print<strong>.</strong> It is actually extruded filament, which was misplaced by the print head (extruder) because at a certain point during the print the object below moved or collapsed.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If the first layer isn’t perfect, the chance of any type of print failure increases.</div>
<h3>The most common reasons</h3>
<ol>
<li>The printed object detaches from the print bed during the print</li>
<li>The printed object collapses during the print</li>
<li>An error within the 3D model and/or the sliced file</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/spaghetti-1024-x-577-jpg"></p>
<h3><strong>Troubleshooting</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Check the first layer</strong> – Simply make sure that the first layer is sticking properly to the whole print surface. You can refer to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Check the object for errors</strong>&nbsp;– Always check the generated G-code in the&nbsp;<strong>Preview</strong>&nbsp;of our&nbsp;<strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>. PrusaSlicer will also display a small warning triangle next to the model should it find any obvious issues. In case you find any gaps or broken geometry, you can either repair the STL object yourself and check our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/corrupted-3d-models-for-printing_2205">Corrupted 3D models for printing</a>.</li>
<li><strong>Try to increase the bed temperature</strong> – If you have already experienced this error, try to re-run the print and increase the bed temperature by 5-10 <strong>°</strong>C. This should help with the first layer adhesion. You don’t have to re-slice the object and prepare a new G-code. Just start the print, go to the&nbsp;<em>LCD Menu – Tune – Bed,</em> once the mesh bed leveling is completed<strong>.</strong></li>
</ul>


Spaghetti monster

Prusa Connect &amp; PrusaLink

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>During the configuration of <strong>Prusa Connect</strong> on the <strong>Original Prusa MINI/+</strong>, <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</strong> or <strong>XL</strong> an error on this configuration can occur and the printer shows the message "<strong>Registration to Prusa Connect failed due to: ~</strong>". In place of <strong>~</strong>, a text with more details is shown, from the list below. Depending on the specific shown text, there are different causes and fixes. </p>
<p>Error name: Connect Registration Failed</p>
<p>Error code: #12401 (MINI), #13401 (MK4), #26401 (MK4S), #21401 (MK3.9), #23401 (MK3.5), #17401 (XL)</p>
<h4>DNS error</h4>
<p>The printer wasn't able to resolve the <strong>hostname</strong> of the Prusa Connect server into an IP address. The hostname is a unique label assigned to a device connected to a network. </p>
<ul>
<li>The printer is not connected to the network at all.</li>
<li>In case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>DNS server</strong> is not configured or configured incorrectly.</li>
<li>The local DNS server is currently not working.</li>
<li>The Connect hostname is reconfigured to some that doesn't exist. For example, this can occur if loading a .ini file with an invalid configuration.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Refused</h4>
<p>It's not possible to reach the server on the network level, hence it is not possible to establish a TCP connection. The system is either not answering at all or actively refuses the connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>The internet connection is not working, or a firewall blocks the communication.</li>
<li>In the case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>gateway </strong>(typically, this is the IP address of the router) is not configured or configured incorrectly. </li>
<li>The Connect server is under maintenance. </li>
<li>Too many TCP connections are open with the printer, for example in PrusaLink. </li>
</ul>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>This message points to an error doing a <strong>SSL/TLS handshake</strong>. This handshake is the process to create a safe and encrypted connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>Time is not synchronized on the printer (MINI/+). The time synchronization occurs for each internet connection, through the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ntp-server-mini_151132">NTP server</a>. It is possible this might take more time than initially expected, or rarely, that there might be issues with the server. </li>
<li>A restrictive firewall (for example but not limited to a corporate proxy firewall) may restrict an automatic access to the NTP server. In that case, it will be necessary to manually allow the printer to access the NTP server.</li>
<li>Something in the path is trying to tamper with the communication, for example but not limited to an attack. </li>
</ul>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>The server claims that the printer is not authorized. The printer is not recognized as an Original Prusa. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>The server is returning a <strong>500 Internal Server Error</strong> or similar. The issue is on the Connect side, and is expected to be fixed on its own. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by an issue related to the printer firmware. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Similar to the Refused error, but the connection dropped after it was initialized. </p>
<ul>
<li>Glitchy internet connection.</li>
<li>The <strong>latency</strong> to the Connect servers is too high. A geographic location is very far from our Connect servers can contribute to this cause.</li>
<li>The Connect server is temporarily down.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>The response from the server is not recognized.</p>
<ul>
<li>Bug on the server side. This cause is on our side and expected to be fixed on its own. </li>
<li>Too old firmware on the printer and it's no longer supported.</li>
<li>A misconfiguration from the <strong>.ini file</strong> loaded on the printer, connecting to something different than our Connect server.</li>
</ul>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>DNS error, Refused</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is connected to the internet. In case of a static (non-DHCP) connection, ensure the correct settings are there, or test a DHCP connection. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file. </p>
<p>If the previous steps didn't fix the issue, attempt a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/factory-reset-mini_177516">factory reset</a>. </p>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>Reattempt the Connect registration, after the printer is connected to the internet for a few more minutes. </p>
<p>If the previous step didn't fix the issue, double-check your network <strong>firewall</strong>. Some firewalls will need for the NTP server to be allowed manually. The specific steps will depend on your specific firewall, we recommend checking your firewall documentation. </p>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>If your printer is not an Original Prusa printer, it cannot use our Prusa Connect service.</p>
<p>In case your printer is an Original Prusa, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784"> re-flash or update its firmware</a>. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>A server error indicates an issue from our side. The issue will be fixed on its own, try registering again to Prusa Connect later. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">Re-flash or update the printer firmware</a>. If this does not solve the issue, take note if the printer might have other issues, even if not directly related. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Ensure that your internet connection is stable and not glitchy. To confirm whether an inconsistent internet connection caused the issue, test another connection, if available, such as a hotspot from your mobile phone. </p>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is running our latest firmware version. If it is running an old version, update the firmware. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file.</p>


Connect Registration Failed

<p>This guide will help you solve the most common issues with the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-connect-and-prusalink-explained_302608">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect</a> on your Original Prusa Printer.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+</h3>
<p><strong>Wi-Fi connection status</strong></p>
<p>For the Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI+, and MINI models, the Wi-Fi connection status is displayed at the top part of the LCD screen, indicated by an icon:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>White Icon</strong> (<span style="color: #0000ff;"><strong>blue arrow</strong></span> in the image below): Indicates a successful Wi-Fi connection.</li>
<li><strong>Grey Icon</strong>: Wi-Fi is active but not connected to the access point.</li>
</ul>
<p>For detailed connection status, navigate to <strong>Settings &gt; Network &gt; Wi-Fi &gt; Status</strong> in the menu. (<span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>orange arrow</strong></span> in the image below) These statuses provide insights into the Wi-Fi connectivity and troubleshooting steps for common issues:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Connected</strong>: The printer has successfully connected to the network.</li>
<li><strong>Link down</strong>: The printer is connected to the Wi-Fi access point but hasn't obtained an IP address. This could be due to a weak signal, interference, absence of DHCP server on the network, or similar issues. A short "Down" period might occur as part of the normal connection process, so waiting a bit often resolves this.</li>
<li><strong>No AP</strong>: The printer is not connected to any Wi-Fi access point, possibly due to a weak signal, incorrect credentials, or compatibility issues (e.g., the printer’s ESP Wi-Fi module can only connect to 2.4GHz Wi-Fi, not 5GHz-only access points).</li>
<li><strong>ESP error</strong>: Indicates a communication breakdown between the ESP Wi-Fi module and the printer’s main board, potentially due to an ESP firmware crash or a connection issue. The printer will reboot the ESP module automatically to resolve this. If the error recurs, user intervention may be required, such as replugging or reflashing the ESP.</li>
<li><strong>Gone</strong>: The ESP module is either unplugged or does not have an appropriate firmware installed.</li>
<li><strong>Flash ESP</strong>: The connected ESP module has outdated or incorrect firmware and needs updating / reflashing.<br />Select "Setup Wi-Fi Module" item in the same menu. The printer will automatically re-flash the ESP module firmware as a part of the setup wizard.</li>
</ul>
<h4> </h4>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/555e58e4f3b6522b94ec5fdfcc969165_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink Troubleshooting - Review" alt="MK4 / XL Wi-Fi connection status" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>The browser login does not work</h4>
<p>Attempt the login using another browser, some browsers might have issues with the PrusaLink login. </p>
<h4>The printer does not establish a connection (8+ minutes)</h4>
<p>Double-check the credentials in the prusa_printer_settings.ini file, and load them again in the USB drive. In each field, ensure that there is no space before and after the = character. Having the following special characters as part of the SSID would also cause the connection to not be established, make sure they are not part of the SSID: </p>
<ul>
<li>- (Dash)</li>
<li>_ (Underscore)</li>
<li>' (Apostrophe)</li>
<li>. (Dot)</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/782027dd534617cf_painted.png" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>On the <strong>MINI/+</strong> with firmware version up to 4.4x, the prusa_printer_settings.ini file might show an extra row, ensure that this is not changed (key_mgmt=WPA)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/646e334be3da2dd0_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S</h3>
<h4>Bad X-Api-Key</h4>
<p>If <strong>PrusaLink </strong>is selected in PrusaSlicer, it is necessary to enter an <strong>API key</strong>. For PrusaLink 0.7.0 or higher, the API key can be found in Prusa Connect, in the Settings tab, on older versions it is shown during the PrusaLink Wizard. Alternatively, select <strong>HTTP digest</strong> for authentication and add your PrusaLink username and password.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/be235d272b70fcd5d86012f40daf4598.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink Troubleshooting" alt="" width="600" height="490" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>500 internal server error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by the printer serial number not being written properly on the printer Einsy board EEPROM. The solution is copying the serial number to the Einsy EEPROM, with the following procedure: </p>
<ol>
<li>Connect a power bank, a USB charger, or another source of power (excluding a computer) to the printer USB type B port.</li>
<li>With the printer switched on, press the reset button. </li>
</ol>
<h4>Some options in printer detail are not available</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the printer is online and ready</li>
<li>If you do not see any options at all, make sure you have the correct version 0.6.1 of the PrusaLink SD card image flashed to your RPi. In case of doubt, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#222170">download the PrusaLink SD card image again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>“ERR: NO IP” on LCD</h4>
<ul>
<li>Wait for up to 5 minutes, sometimes it shows the IP later.</li>
<li>Make sure you have Wi-Fi within reach and in 2.4 GHz.
<div class="note-callout">5GHz Wi-Fi is not supported.</div>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>, making sure you have the name and password entered correctly in Pi Imager settings.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The IP address is not shown</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the RPi port option in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; RPi port</em> is ON. </li>
<li>Check that the green LED is on or flashing at the bottom right corner of the RPi.
<div class="warning-callout">If the green LED is not on or flashing, the RPi is not working. Review the soldering of the pins, and make sure the pins are long enough. You can test the Pi by connecting it to USB power, but make sure it is not connected via pins to the Einsy board in that case!</div>
</li>
<li>Check that the SD card can be accessed on your computer. Try a different computer if possible, or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Credentials cannot be saved on RPi Imager</h4>
<p>Ensure that the network has a password. A network without a password cannot be saved on the RPi Imager.</p>
<h4>White/blank screen after finishing the Wizard</h4>
<p>Make sure you are logged in on <a href="https://connect.prusa3d.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">connect.prusa3d.com</a>.</p>
<h4>Forgotten login/password to the Link’s website or printer accidentally removed from Connect</h4>
<p>It will be necessary to go through the wizard again. Remove the prusa_printer_settings.ini file from the folder /home/pi, and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</p>
<h4>Flashing takes a long amount of time (20+ minutes)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using a Class10 micro SD card or better. Slow microSD cards affect the speed of the flashing.</li>
<li>Some computers, especially old ones, may have a slow SD card reader. Try the USB reader, if available.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The wizard is slow (2+ minutes to load the next page)</h4>
<ul>
<li>PrusaLink might be still loading. Wait for a few minutes and try again.</li>
<li>Make sure your computer and your printer are connected to the very same network. For example, if your computer is connected by cable and your printer is connected via WiFi, it can cause this issue.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The LCD shows “Starting PrusaLink” after 5+ minutes (MK3/S/+)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads" target="_blank" rel="noopener">firmware version</a>.</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304787">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Slow uploading of the G-code to PrusaLink</h4>
<p>The upload speed is limited while printing to prevent slowing down the print.</p>
<h4>The Wizard can’t get the serial number from the printer (Err obtaining SN)</h4>
<p>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware version</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer Support</a> if the previous step is not solving the issue. </div>
<h4>Error bad token</h4>
<div>This may occur if you use PrusaLink on a different printer than the one it was set up with. In this case, make a fresh PrusaLink installation.</div>
<h4>Err unsupported FW</h4>
<p>Upgrade the printer to the latest firmware.</p>


PrusaLink Troubleshooting

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MK4S/MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5 displays the message: "<strong>Failed to home the extruder in X-axis, make sure there is no obstacle on X-axis</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Homing error X</p>
<p>Error code: #26304 (MK4S) #13304 (MK4) #21304 (MK3.9) #23304 (MK3.5)</p>
<p>The error is most likely caused by a bad movement of the print head along the X-axis. </p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>X-axis movement</h4>
<p>Make sure there are no obstructions in the path of the X-axis. For example, there might be a piece of filament stuck around the belt, or on a smooth rod, from a previous print.</p>
<h4>X-axis belt tension</h4>
<p>Check the X-axis belt tension and adjust it, following our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mk3-s_112380">dedicated article on belt adjustment</a>.</p>
<h4>X-axis motor pulley</h4>
<p>The X-axis motor pulley is attached to the X-axis motor shaft. The motor shaft has one flat side. The pulley has two set screws: ensure that one of the two set screws is aligned with the flat part of the motor shaft. Make sure the other set screw is also tightened, not excessively, and that there is a small space between the pulley and the motor. </p>
<h4>X-carriage assembly</h4>
<p>An over-tightened or loose X-carriage and X-carriage-clip assembly might cause the error. If none of the previous steps resolved the issue, refer to our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/3-x-axis-x-carriage-assembly_429986">assembly manual</a> to see the assembly of the X-carriage and X-carriage-clip.</p>
<h4>xBuddy connection</h4>
<p>Check the motor connections on the board. For that, open the four screws that hold the xBuddy box cover. Make sure that the motor connector is not loose, and that the X-axis motor connector has not been accidentally switched with the Y-axis motor or any other motor.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100.026%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/9769d45d75346583db549d162dbb302b_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Homing error Y #13305 (MK4) #21305 (MK3.9)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/a5df42079c5152c4bb1404adc18106ea.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Homing error Y #13305 (MK4) #21305 (MK3.9)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Homing error X #26304 (MK4S) #13304 (MK4) #21304 (MK3.9) #23304 (MK3.5)

<p>During normal function, your printer saves statistics, calibration data, and personalized settings, even after it is turned off. If you feel like you changed settings that have negatively affected your 3D printer, you can always revert to factory default values and try again. </p>
<div class="note-callout">Doing a factory reset will clear statistics data, like total printing time and filament use.</div>
<h3>How to factory reset</h3>
<p>Factory Reset can be done via <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; System -&gt; Factory Reset</em>. </p>
<p>Starting firmware 4.6.1 there are two options:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Reset Settings &amp; Calibrations</strong> - this option deletes all changes done by the user and reverts the system to its original state. For most of the cases, this is a sufficient method. Technically speaking only the EEPROM with user stored data is deleted. Once, the reset is done, the printer will boot to language selection, followed by the calibration wizard.</li>
<li><strong>Hard reset (USB with FW needed)</strong> - due to the complex partition layout, the firmware stores its settings not only in the EEPROM but also on the XFLASH. In some edge cases, it might be necessary to delete both of these. Once this reset is done, the user must insert a USB drive with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_453086">firmware</a> as some parts of the XFLASH will be created again from scratch.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Flashing firmware</h3>
<p>If you see any inconsistent behavior we recommend also flashing the firmware.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_453086">MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">MINI/+</a></li>
</ul>
<p>A factory reset followed by flashing the firmware and recalibrating will resolve most firmware issues you may encounter. </p>


Factory reset (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MINI/+, XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MK4S/MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5 displays the message: <strong>"Failed to home the Y-axis, make sure there is no obstacle on Y-axis</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Homing error Y</p>
<p>Error code: #26305 (MK4S) #13305 (MK4) #21305 (MK3.9) #23305 (MK3.5)</p>
<p>The error is most likely caused by a bad movement of the Y-carriage along the Y-axis.</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>Y-axis movement</h4>
<p>Make sure there are no obstructions in the path of the Y-axis. For example, there might be a piece of filament stuck around the belt, or on a smooth rod, from a previous print.</p>
<h4>Y-axis belt tension</h4>
<p>Check the Y-axis belt tension and adjust it, following our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mk3-s_112380">dedicated article on belt adjustment</a>.</p>
<h4>Y-axis motor pulley</h4>
<p>The Y-axis motor pulley is attached to the Y-axis motor shaft. The motor shaft has one flat side. The pulley has two set screws, ensure that one of the two set screws is aligned with the flat part of the motor shaft. Make sure the other set screw is also tightened, not excessively, and that there is a small space between the pulley and the motor.</p>
<h4>Y-axis bearings position</h4>
<p>Incorrect positioning of the bearings might cause the error.</p>
<p>On the side of the Y-carriage with one bearing, ensure that the bearing is centered on the bearing clip. Approximately the same piece of bearing should be visible on each side.</p>
<p>On the side of the Y-carriage with two bearings, place the bearings as close to the center of the Y-carriage as possible. Beware, the bearings must not touch the edge of the pocket!</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 21px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/00caa1b4b7e7f0e52a2652767a228c72_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="USB Port overcurrent #13306 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/0f85fe99ce29ae9b2d2b9b17eeb6481d_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="USB Port overcurrent #13306 (FIONA)" alt="" width="399" height="299" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>If you are correcting the position of the bearings, make sure to keep the correct orientation. The tracks (rows of balls) have to be on the sides.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 21px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/072a3e6a00466141e3159d45a529cf33_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="USB Port overcurrent #13306 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/6fbbf29a7f039d5a3ab1b2f2ebec8ec0_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="USB Port overcurrent #13306 (FIONA)" alt="" width="399" height="299" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>xBuddy connection</h4>
<p>Check the motor connections on the board. For that, open the four screws that hold the xBuddy box cover. Make sure that the motor connector is not loose, and that the Y-axis motor connector has not been accidentally switched with the X-axis motor or any other motor.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100.026%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/9769d45d75346583db549d162dbb302b_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Homing error Y #13305 (MK4) #21305 (MK3.9)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/a5df42079c5152c4bb1404adc18106ea.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Homing error Y #13305 (MK4) #21305 (MK3.9)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Homing error Y #26305 (MK4S) #13305 (MK4) #21305 (MK3.9) #23305 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is showing the message <strong>"Check the heatbed heater &amp; thermistor wiring for possible damage."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Bed preheat error</p>
<p>Error code: #26201 (MK4S) #13201 (MK4) #21201 (MK3.9) #23201 (MK3.5)</p>
<p>This message is shown when, during the preheat, the printer does not increase more than <strong>2 ºC for 20 seconds</strong>. The heating is paused so the issue can be fixed.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Make sure that the <strong>ambient temperature</strong> where the printer is is stable, and above <strong>10 ºC</strong>.</p>
<p>This error can be caused by damage to either the <strong>heatbed thermistor</strong> or the <strong>heatbed power cable</strong>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Doing <strong>regular maintenance</strong> on the printer may prevent this type of issue.</div>
<p>On the heatbed, check the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>See if the <strong>thermistor </strong>is firmly seated below the <strong>Golden Kapton tape.</strong></li>
<li>Make sure that the <strong>washer </strong>is screwed above the round cable connector, not below it.</li>
<li>Check if the <strong>M3nN nut</strong> is holding the screw firmly.</li>
<li>Access the xBuddy board. Check the <strong><span style="color: #236fa1;">heatbed power cable</span></strong>, the <strong><span style="color: #2dc26b;">heatbed thermistor</span></strong>, and the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/blown-fuse-mk4-s-mk3-9-s_411666">fuse that protects the heatbed</a>.</li>
</ul>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 322.875px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 301.875px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 301.875px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Heatbedthermistor.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Preheat error #13201 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 301.875px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/b219085ec996c508.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Preheat error #13201 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/30e875e9b027e87d.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Preheat error #13201 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/77686da340e7e4a3_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Preheat error #13201 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>In case all the items are correct, there might be an internal break in one of the cables. If you do not have a multimeter, it is possible to check the cables using the following test: </p>
<ol>
<li>Use a hairdryer to blow hot air at the heatbed.</li>
<li>While doing that, check if there is any temperature change on the LCD screen.</li>
<li>If there is a positive temperature change it means that the heatbed thermistor is working. In this case, the heater is defective.</li>
<li>If there is no change at all, the heatbed thermistor is defective.</li>
</ol>
<h4>Multimeter check</h4>
<p>In case you have a multimeter available, it is possible to check the resistance of the cables using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a> guide.</p>


Bed preheat error #26201 (MK4S) #13201 (MK4) #21201 (MK3.9) #23201 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5 is showing the message: <strong>"Overcurrent detected on xBuddy heatbed port, disconnect the device."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Heatbed Port Overcurrent</p>
<p>Error code: #26309 (MK4S) #13309 (MK4) #21309 (MK3.9) #23309 (MK3.5)</p>
<p>The error is shown when there is a damaged cable on the <strong>heatbed </strong>or any of its connections.</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<p>The most likely cause of this issue is damage to the <strong>heatbed </strong>cable. Check the path between the heatbed and the <strong>xBuddy </strong>board, and see if there are any parts that are broken or pinched.</p>
<p>In case there is no damage, check the cable connection to the heatbed and to the xBuddy board. Try reconnecting the connectors.</p>
<p>In rare cases, this error message can be shown in case of damage to the xBuddy board. So if the cables and connectors are intact, try checking the board for any damage.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 21px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5bf0be529c827b33.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="USB Port overcurrent #13306 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%; height: 21px;"> <img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/ca06837a757f0023_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Heatbed Port Overcurrent #13309 (FIONA)" alt="" width="399" height="299" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/a325d581e1a553bd_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="275" loading="lazy" /></p>


Heatbed Port Overcurrent #26309 (MK4S) #13309 (MK4) #21309 (MK3.9) #23309 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The <strong>MK4S/MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5 xBuddy board</strong> is equipped with a safety mechanism to detect power supply overcurrent situations in the connection to the Multi-material unit (MMU). Upon detecting overcurrent, the printer automatically cuts off both power and communication to the MMU unit as a preventive measure against damage.</p>
<h3>I don't have an MMU installed</h3>
<p>If you haven't installed an MMU, make sure to disable the MMU functionality in the printer's menu in Settings -&gt; MMU Enable. However, if you still face this issue with the MMU option being turned off, it might indicate a damaged component on the xBuddy board. Please reach out to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a> for assistance.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<div class="note-callout">The MMU unit should not be connected or disconnected during regular use while the printer is running.</div>
<p>Inspect the <strong>MMU, Printer cable, and PD board</strong> for any signs of damage. Check the cable's path to the xBuddy board for any broken or pinched parts.</p>
<p>If there's no visible damage, ensure the cable connections to the MMU PDU and the xBuddy board are secure.</p>
<p>To troubleshoot, first disconnect the <strong><span style="color: #f1c40f;">MMU cable</span></strong> from the xBuddy board, go to the printer menu in <em>Settings -&gt; MMU Enable</em> and set the MMU to off. Verify if the printer operates correctly with the MMU unit disconnected and the MMU functionality turned off. After confirming this, reconnect the MMU and test the printer with the MMU turned on.</p>
<p>In rare cases, this error message might be shown due to a damaged xBuddy board. Try checking the board for any signs of damage.</p>
<div class="note-callout">When contacting <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer support</a> about this issue, it's crucial to specify not only what firmware and hardware are you using, but also the <strong>version of your printer's xBuddy board</strong> (e.g., 0.2.7 / v36, etc.), as there are variations in the electronic diagrams across different versions.</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 21px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/14f3801e133f167c644feea2d7e8a601_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="MMU / Printer cable connected to the MMU3’s PD-board addon on the control board." alt="" width="1600" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 21px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/682bd0e96557fd37c8514dde88f4cc4a_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="MMU Overcurrent #13310 (MK4) #21310 (MK3.9)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Technical information</h3>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/80b81dcc74f145ce57f9615b9accb7c6.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="MMU Overcurrent #13310 (MK4) #21310 (MK3.9)" alt="" width="600" height="373" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>The xBuddy board is constantly monitoring the current flowing through the electronics. If the power draw exceeds 3.6A on the MMU connector's power line, the printer will display this error, and the corresponding LED indicator on the xBuddy board will illuminate. A potential overcurrent condition is likely to occur after the first startup, as power demand peaks while capacitors are charging. </p>
<p>The xBuddy board is designed with the capability to fully manage power delivery to the MMU unit, incorporating a software feature to mitigate such overcurrent scenarios. However, this function is specifically calibrated for the original MMU3 unit. In certain unsupported hardware configurations, this may result in a false error indication.</p>


MMU Overcurrent #26310 (MK4S) #13310 (MK4) #21310 (MK3.9) #23310 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>On the Original Prusa MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5, the I2C bus is used for the <strong>xBuddy</strong> board to communicate with other printer components. If there is an error in sending data from the xBuddy board, the printer will show the message: <strong>"HAL detected an I2C error when sending data via I2C."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: I2C Send failed</p>
<p>Error code: #26311 (MK4S) #13311 (MK4) #21311 (MK3.9) #23311 (MK3.5)</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<p><strong>Restarting the printer</strong> is expected to resolve the error, and this is not expected to occur again. In case a restart does not resolve it, please contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a>, we will take it from here. </p>


I2C Send failed #26311 (MK4S) #13311 (MK4) #21311 (MK3.9) #23311 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is showing the message <strong>"Check the heatbed thermistor wiring for possible damage."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Bed thermal runaway </p>
<p>Error code: #26203 (MK4S) #13203 (MK4) #21203 (MK3.9) #23203 (MK3.5)</p>
<p><strong>Thermal Runaway</strong> is a safety feature designed to cut power to the heaters in case of a cable malfunction. If your printer's thermistor somehow dislodges itself, electronic parts can get a lower (incorrect) temperature reading. In an attempt to compensate for the lower temperature, the heater could reach dangerously high temperatures.</p>
<p>If the <strong>heatbed </strong>temperature drops by more than <strong>2 ºC</strong> for over<strong> 60 seconds</strong>, the printer will shut down the print and show the Thermal Runaway error.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Make sure that the ambient temperature is above <strong>10 ºC</strong>, and that there are <strong>no sources of cooling</strong> near the printer, like air conditioning or windows.</p>
<p>Check if the thermistor is well secured under the <strong>golden Kapton tape</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Heatbedthermistor.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Thermal runaway #13203 (FIONA)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>If you are printing small objects with high-temperature filaments, try to print multiple at once and/or place them away from the center of the heatbed.</p>
<p>Open the <strong>xBuddyBox-cover</strong> and the <strong>el-box-cover</strong> by opening the screws indicated below to access the heatbed cables. Make sure that the heatbed power cable did not slip from the screw, and that the heatbed thermistor cable is well connected.</p>
<p>If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the cables using this guide: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a>.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8358%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/ef0adcc4ba6782d2_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Thermal runaway #13203 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/783109cb80ab5ceb_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Thermal runaway #13203 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3> </h3>


Bed thermal runaway #26203 (MK4S) #13203 (MK4) #21203 (MK3.9) #23203 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>On the Original Prusa MK4S/MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5, the I2C bus is used for the <strong>xBuddy</strong> board to communicate with other printer components. If there is an error while the xBuddy board is receiving data, the printer will show the message: <strong>"HAL detected an I2C error when receiving data via I2C."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: I2C Receive Failed</p>
<p>Error code: #26315 (MK4S) #13315 (MK4) #21315 (MK3.9) #23315 (MK3.5)</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<p><strong>Restarting the printer</strong> is expected to resolve the error, and this is not expected to occur again. In case a restart does not resolve it, please contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a>, we will take it from here. </p>


I2C Receive Failed #26315 (MK4S) #13315 (MK4) #21315 (MK3.9) #23315 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is showing  the message <strong>"Check the heatbed thermistor wiring for possible damage."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Bed mintemp error </p>
<p>Error code: #26207 (MK4S) #13207 (MK4) #21207 (MK3.9) #23207 (MK3.5)</p>
<p>This error is shown when the heatbed temperature drops below <strong>5 ºC</strong> at any time. This error can also happen when the printer is idle and not heated.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Make sure that the <strong>ambient temperature</strong> where the printer is is stable, and above <strong>10 ºC</strong>.</p>
<p>This error is usually caused by a damaged <strong>heatbed thermistor</strong>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Doing regular maintenance on the printer may prevent this type of issue.</div>
<p>Check if the thermistor is well secured under the <strong>golden Kapton tape</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Heatbedthermistor.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Maxtemp error #13205 (FIONA)" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>In order to test if the thermistor is damaged, go to the printer menu in <em>Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Heatbed temperature</em>, and set it to <strong>80 ºC</strong>. Then, move the heatbed cables by hand and see if the temperature will fluctuate. If the temperature fluctuates more than <strong>5 ºC</strong>, from the set temperature, the thermistor needs to be replaced.</p>
<p>Open the <strong>xBuddyBox-cover</strong> and the <strong>el-box-cover</strong> by opening the screws indicated below to access the heatbed cable connectors. Make sure that the heatbed power cable did not slip from the screw, and that the heatbed thermistor cable is well connected.</p>
<p>If you have a <strong>multimeter</strong>, you can check the resistance of the cables using this guide: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8358%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/ef0adcc4ba6782d2_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Thermal runaway #13203 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8358%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/783109cb80ab5ceb_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Thermal runaway #13203 (FIONA)" alt="" width="400" height="267" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3> </h3>


Bed mintemp error #26207 (MK4S) #13207 (MK4) #21207 (MK3.9) #23207 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>When flashing the firmware on your Original Prusa MK4, MK3.9, or MK3.5, you might get the message "<strong>Firmware file missing in the USB flash!</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: No FW on USB flash drive</p>
<p>Error code: #26604 (MK4S) #13604 (MK4) #21604 (MK3.9) #23604 (MK3.5)</p>
<p>This error happens when you attempt flashing firmware on the printer, but the printer does not find any firmware in the USB drive that can be uploaded to the printer.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">Download the firmware</a> and if necessary the bootloader, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer again by pressing the same reset button, and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob.</p>
<p>If the issue persists, the problem might be in the USB flash drive. Find any other USB drive in your household, make sure it is formatted to FAT32, copy both firmware files and repeat the previously described procedure.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>


No FW on USB #26604 (MK4S) #13604 (MK4) #21604 (MK3.9) #23604 (MK3.5)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>During firmware flashing on your Original Prusa MK4, MK3.9, or MK3.5, you might get the message "<strong>USB drive not connected! Please insert a USB drive with a valid firmware file</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: USB not connected</p>
<p>Error code: #26602 (MK4S) #13602 (MK4) #21602 (MK3.9) #23602 (MK3.5)</p>
<p>This issue happens when there is an error reading the USB drive.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Make sure that the USB drive is connected to the printer, and that the USB port in the mainboard is not damaged. If the error persists, try using a new, <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-cards-and-usb-drives_112291#how-do-i-format-the-usb-drive-sd-card" target="_blank" rel="noopener">FAT32-formatted USB drive</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>


USB not connected #26602 (MK4S) #13602 (MK4) #21602 (MK3.9) #23602 (MK3.5)


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<p>Initial release for Original Prusa MK3.5</p>


5.2.0

1.00


<ul>
<li>MMU3 support for the MK3.5</li>
</ul>


5.2.1


<ul>
<li>Bed Level Correction</li>



<li>Support for Revo hotend</li>



<li>Mesh bed leveling fix (7x7)</li>
</ul>


5.2.2


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>


2.7.4


<ul>
<li>Touch support</li>



<li>Stealth mode</li>



<li>MMU3 support</li>



<li>MMU3 firmware auto-update</li>



<li>Time Zone settings updated</li>



<li>Bed Level Correction (MK3.5, MINI)</li>



<li>Improvements by the Prusa community</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


6.0.0


<ul>
<li>Japanese language support (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>



<li>Stealth mode corrected (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>
</ul>


6.0.1


<ul>
<li>Improvements by Prusa community</li>
</ul>


6.0.2


<ul>
<li>Interim solution of USB disconnect issues (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>



<li>PINDA off-bed probing repaired (MK3.5)</li>
</ul>


6.0.3


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0

6.0.4


<ul>
<li>Support for MK3.9S and MK3.5S printers</li>



<li>Numeric keyboard</li>



<li>Custom names for steel sheet</li>



<li>User-configurable hostname</li>



<li>Binary G-code check</li>



<li>ESP firmware flash during boot (MINI, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.5</li>



<li>Network Status screen</li>



<li>Steel sheet name in footer (MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Powered Z-motors during calibration procedure (MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>Default nozzle diameter set to 0.4 (XL)</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.1.2


<ul>
<li>Issues with numeric keyboard repaired (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)</li>



<li>Returned nozzle diameter setup (XL)</li>



<li>Printhead position during calibrations changed (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Cold pull (XL)</li>
</ul>


6.1.3


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MK3.5

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