SL1S

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">安定したリリース</h3>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicerの最新の安定版リリースは、常に <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPSパッケージ</a> にあり、Windows、Mac OS X、およびLinuxで利用できます。パッケージにはテストオブジェクトとプリンタードライバーも含まれていますが、PrusaSlicerのみのインストールを選択することができます。</p>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicerのイントロダクションとダウンロード</a>または<a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">私たちのGitHub</a>から、コンピューターのスタンドアロンインストーラーをダウンロードすることもできます。</p>
<p>安定版リリースとは、可能な限り徹底的にテストされ、多数の公開アルファバージョンおよびベータバージョンを経たバージョンです。</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">アルファとベータリリース</h3>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicerの急速な開発ペースについていきたいですか？開発ビルドには、最新の機能とバグ修正が含まれています。ただし、不安定になったり、クラッシュしたり、予期しない動作をしたりする可能性があります。本番環境で開発ビルドを使用することはお勧めしません。ダウンロードと詳細については、<a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">私たちのGitHub</a> を確認してください。<br />ほとんどのコンピューターにPrusaSlicerをインストールする方法については、記事<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">PrusaSlicerのインストール</a>を参照してください。</p>
</div>


PrusaSlicerのダウンロード

レイヤーと外周

サポート材

<h3>PrusaSlicer マニュアルへようこそ</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicer (旧称：Slic3r Prusa EditionまたはSlic3r PE) は、オープンソースプロジェクト<strong><a href="https://slic3r.org/">Slic3r</a></strong> をベースにした自社開発のスライサーソフトウェアです。PrusaSlicerは、オープンソースで、機能が豊富で、また頻繁に更新されているツールです。</p>
<p>PrusaSlicerは、<a>Windows, Mac and Linux</a> に対応しています。</p>
<h3>歴史</h3>
<p>Slic3rプロジェクトは、<strong>Alessandro Ranellucci</strong> のリーダーシップのもと、成長を続ける3Dプリント技術にオープンソースのスライサーを提供する取り組みとして、2011年にRepRapコミュニティ内で誕生しました。Slic3rはすぐにユーザーの間に広まり、Josef Prusaが Original Prusa プリンター用の主要なスライシングソフトウェアを探していたとき、このSlic3r が選ばれました。Slic3r はオープンソースで、現在もそうですが、当時非常にパワフルなソフトウェアでした。</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.helpdev.prusa3d.com/en/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-300x170.png 300w, /wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-600x341.png 600w, /wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-768x436.png 768w, /wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-800x454.png 800w" alt="" width="421" height="239" /><em>Jo and Alessandro in 2012 (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tuxg2L7r1oI">video interview</a>)</em></p>
<p>しかし、Prusa Researchが非常に非常に早いスピードで成長するにつれ、スライシングソフトウェアの開発をより柔軟に行う必要がありました。ソフトウェアに変更を加える必要があり、その変更は早急に行われなければならず、また、より多くの機能を追加する必要もありました。この時点で、切り離されたオリジナルのSlic3rチームとの協力関係は維持できず、結局は、私たちでオリジナルのSlic3rプロジェクトのフォークを設立することにしました。</p>
<p>Slic3r Prusa Editionは、2016年11月に発売されました - 発売の詳細は<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/">こちら</a>をご覧ください。専任のSlic3r PE開発者チームが設立され、新機能がどんどん追加されていきました。これらの変化は2019年5月に結実し、UIを大幅に刷新した新バージョンを<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/prusaslicer-2-release/">PrusaSlicer2.0</a>という新しい名前でリリースしました。</p>
<p>なぜ名前を変えたのか？まず第一に、以前の名前は本当に紛らわしいものでした。自分たちの資料でも「PE」という接尾語をつけないことが多く、コミュニティでは Slic3r と Slic3r PE をほぼ同じ意味で使っていました。新しいユーザーは、Slic3r を誤ってダウンロードし、「3D Printing Handbook」に掲載されているスクリーンショットとは違って見えることや、自分のPrusaプリンタ用に設定されていないことを不思議に思うかもしれません。オリジナルの Slic3r について言えば、Slic3r PE はアップデートのたびに、オリジナルのコードからどんどん離れていきました。私たちは Perl のソースコードをすべて C++ に書き換え、特に2.0のアップデートでは、あまりにも多くの違いがあったため、名前をより明確にすることが適切だと考えました。</p>
<p>もちろん、オープンソースであり、 <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer">GitHub</a> ですべてを見ることができます。そして、私たちのスライサーが <strong><a href="https://slic3r.org/">Alessandro Ranellucci</a></strong> によって書かれたオリジナルのプロジェクトをベースにしていることを、私たちは今でも誇りに思っています。現在、両プロジェクトは楽しく共存しており、新機能は頻繁にマージされています。</p>


概要情報

VAT (付加価値税) および通関手数料

Růženka Upgrade Final [進行中の翻訳]

Original PrusaSL13Dプリンターは、MSLAプリントプロセスに基づいています。 Original Prusa i3マシンとは異なり、このプリンターは高解像度LCDパネルとUV LEDを使用してレジンの薄層を硬化し、前例のないレベルの精細さを実現します。

Original Prusa SL1キット組立て

組立てガイド

キャリブレーション中にプリンターがエラーメッセージ発した場合の対処方法。

キャリブレーションエラーメッセージ

パーフェクトプリントを実現するための、3Dプリンターを調整する方法を学ぶために知っておく必要のあるすべての情報。

キャリブレーション

プリンターの説明

プリンターの機能

shop.prusa3d.comで購入する前または後に興味があるかもしれないFAQおよび他の有用な情報

一般情報

3Dプリンターとその機能の基本的な概要に加えて、PrusaResearchの一般的な情報。

あなたのプリンターについて

材料ガイド

プリンターメンテナンス

Prusa Connect [進行中の翻訳]

このセクションでは、材料ガイド、プリンタのトラブルシューティング、およびプリンタの使用に関する一般的な情報を見つけることができます。

このプリンターを使用

プリント品質のトラブルシューティング

プリンタートラブルシューティング

QR Error codes [進行中の翻訳]

プリントエラーメッセージ

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related. [進行中の翻訳]

Troubleshooting [進行中の翻訳]

About [進行中の翻訳]

General [進行中の翻訳]

User interface [進行中の翻訳]

入力/出力

左ツールバー

トップツールバー

プリント設定

PrusaSlicer printer settings [進行中の翻訳]

Printer settings [進行中の翻訳]

Advanced options [進行中の翻訳]

SLA スライス処理

Other [進行中の翻訳]

PrusaSlicerスライシングソフトウェアの公式ドキュメント。 基本構成からモディファイヤメッシュなどの詳細設定まで。

PrusaSlicer

1. はじめに

2. Disassembling the SL1

3. Upgrading to SL1S SPEED

4. Firmware upgrading

5. Calibrating the printer

6. First print

7. Manual changelog

<p>Via the web interface called PrusaLink, you can monitor and control your Original Prusa SL1/SL1S over your local network. You will be able to:</p>
<ul>
<li>Upload project files.</li>
<li>Start and stop prints.</li>
<li>Manage projects on both external and internal memory.</li>
<li>Info and statistics of most components.</li>
<li>Manage and see details regarding your current print and its progression, like changing the exposure times or resin refill requests.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink-600x331.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink-800x441.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink-300x165.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink-768x423.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="331"></p>
<p>The printer must be <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">connected to your network using Wi-Fi or a LAN cable</a>. When your printer is connected to your network it is assigned an IP that you use to access PrusaLink. In addition to this, a username and password are required to enter the platform.</p>
<h3><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink2-600x331.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink2-800x441.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink2-300x165.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink2-768x423.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Sl1_prusalink2.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="331"></h3>
<h3>Security</h3>
<p>The system is now equipped with an HTTP digest for improved printer security, which is set as a default option. The username and password can be found and adjusted in the printer's menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Network -&gt; Login credentials.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/f06a6116be6d74e3_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/f06a6116be6d74e3_painted-600x360.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/f06a6116be6d74e3_painted-800x480.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/f06a6116be6d74e3_painted-300x180.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/f06a6116be6d74e3_painted-768x461.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/f06a6116be6d74e3_painted-1536x922.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1_menu_network_logincred.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1_menu_network_logincred-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1_menu_network_logincred-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1_menu_network_logincred-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1_menu_network_logincred-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Do not use "prusa123" as your password!!!</em></p>
<p>The HTTP digest can be turned On and Off using the switch on the top of the Login Credentials page (<span style="color: #e67e23;">orange square</span>). The system will then use a simpler API key. However, <strong>this option is not recommended due to security concerns</strong> of the key being sent over the network unencrypted.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-1-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-1-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-1-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-1-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-1-1536x922.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-2-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-2-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-2-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-2-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-2-1536x922.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/login-credential-2.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">PrusaLink is designed to be used on a local (internal) network. <strong>It is not recommended to access the printer from the internet over a port forward on the router.</strong> Instead, use an encrypted VPN.</div>
<h3>Finding the printer's IP</h3>
<p>Once your printer is connected to the network, you will find its IP address in <em>Main Menu-&gt; Settings -&gt; Network, under Wifi or Ethernet, depending on how you are connected</em>.</p>
<p>You can also use a wifi-scanner app like Fing to find the printer on your network and its assigned IP. <strong>The name of the device will be the Hostname of the printer,</strong> default "prusa64-sl1".</p>
<h4>Access by QR code</h4>
<p>You are also provided with a QR code containing your IP, which you can scan for convenient access to the PrusaLink platform. Go to <em>Main Menu-&gt;Settings -&gt; Network</em> and select the method you are connected with, either 'Wi-Fi' or Ethernet.</p>
<p>A QR code to access PrusaLink is displayed. <strong>If connected by Wi-Fi the QR code is found below the list of available Wi-Fi networks.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/SL1_Prusalink_QR_screenshot.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/SL1_Prusalink_QR_screenshot-600x360.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/SL1_Prusalink_QR_screenshot-300x180.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/SL1_Prusalink_QR_screenshot-768x461.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/SL1_Prusalink_QR_screenshot.png 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<h3>Upload files directly from PrusaSlicer</h3>
<div>Besides controlling the printer from the web UI, you can also use the Login credentials in PrusaSlicer 2.3.0 to connect the printer for the direct upload of models you slice. For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/sending-g-codes-to-printer-via-network-prusaconnect-prusalink-octoprint_196761">ネットワーク経由でプリンターにGコードを送信する（PrusaConnect、PrusaLink、Octoprint）</a>.</div>
<h3>One-click print</h3>
<p>Once you upload a print/project from PrusaSlicer or PrusaLink it will show up on the display ready to be started. For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/one-click-print_220249">ワンクリックプリント</a>.</p>
<p></p>

PrusaLink (SL1/SL1S)

Tested resins

<p>PrusaSlicerでは、Printerプロファイルからプリンタ接続設定を <strong>物理プリンタプロファイル</strong> に分離しています。</p>
<p>プリンタプロファイルのセレクトボックスで <em><strong>プリンターの追加</strong></em> をクリックするか、歯車のアイコンをクリックして <strong><em>物理プリンターの追加</em></strong> を選ぶと、新しい物理プロファイルを作成することができます。</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-600x181.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-800x241.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-300x90.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-768x231.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-1536x463.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-2048x617.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="503" height="152" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>物理プリンタダイアログでは、プリンタに名前を付け、1つまたは複数のプリンタプロファイルを割り当てることができます。例えばMMU2Sアップグレードを使用する場合、物理プリンターは1台だけ設定すればよいのですが、シングルモードとMMUの両方のプロファイルをリンクさせることができます。</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-600x337.png 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-800x449.png 800w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-300x168.png 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-768x431.png 768w" alt="" width="561" height="315" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>ネットワーク情報が記入された物理プリンタを現在のプリンタとして選択している場合、生成されたGコードを直接デバイスに送信することができます。</p>
<h3>PrusaConnect</h3>
<p>PrusaConnectでプリンタにファイルを送信する場合は、物理プリンタを追加するか、既存のプリンタを編集してください。</p>
<p><em><strong>Host</strong></em><strong> type</strong><em> として、セレクトボックスから <em><strong>PrusaConnect</strong></em> を選択します。</em> hostname/IP は自動的に入力されますので、変更する必要はありません。</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/a6e53887e520db647ad830515ac5fb8a.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)" alt="" width="1121" height="711" /></p>
<p>APIキーを確認するには、PrusaConnectにアクセスし、ファイルを送信するプリンタを選択し、<em><strong>Settings </strong></em> タブからスクロールダウンし、<em><strong>API keys </strong></em>セクションに進みます。 <em><strong>PrusaConnect API key</strong></em> を物理プリンタウィンドウにコピーし、OKで確認します。</p>
<p><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/6b5c2148f1bc36255fed667a753a2c50_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)" alt="" width="1600" height="1054" /></strong></p>


ネットワーク経由でプリンターにGコードを送信する（PrusaConnect、PrusaLink、Octoprint）

<p></p>
<p>Thanks to the advanced operating system available on the Original Prusa SL1/SL1S SPEED printer, the user is able to transfer the sliced .sl1 or .sl1s files directly from the PrusaSlicer. There is no need to copy the sliced file on a USB drive and connect it to the printer.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Your SL1/SL1S SPEED can be connected to the local network using Ethernet or Wi-Fi. To learn more, please visit <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">Internet connection (SL1/SL1S) [進行中の翻訳]</a>.</div>
<h3>Login credentials</h3>
<p>The printer has two methods of security to connect with PrusaSlicer, API key and HTTP digest. They can be found in the printer menu in <em>Main Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Network -&gt; Login Credentials</em>. The default of the printer is HTTP digest, which will generate a user name and Password. It is also possible to disable the HTTP digest in the printer menu and use the API key, which will generate a single code. You will need either the API key or the User name and Password to connect with PrusaSlicer.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>It is recommended to use HTTP digest for the login credentials</strong>, as it is more secure than the API key.</div>
<h4>HTTP digest</h4>
<p>If the HTTP digest option is on you will see a User name and Password which you use to connect to the printer remotely.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_http-digest.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_http-digest-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_http-digest-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_http-digest-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_http-digest.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></p>
<h4>API key (less secure)</h4>
<p>Turn the HTTP digest off to see the API key which you use to connect to the printer remotely.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Login_Credentials_api-key.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Login_Credentials_api-key-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Login_Credentials_api-key-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Login_Credentials_api-key-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Login_Credentials_api-key.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></p>
<h3>IP address or Hostname</h3>
<p>In order to identify the printer you are connecting to in PrusaSlicer, it is also necessary to find the IP address or Hostname of your printer.</p>
<h4>IP address</h4>
<p>To find the IP address go to <em>Main Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Network</em>, and scroll to the bottom of the page. There you will see a QR code and the IP address.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_ip-address.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_ip-address-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_ip-address-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_ip-address-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Network_ip-address.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></p>
<h4>Set hostname</h4>
<p>You can find the hostname in <em>Main Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Network -&gt; Set hostname</em>. If you wish to change it, click on the name, and confirm it when done.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Set_Hostname_2021-09_14-22_0-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Set_Hostname_2021-09_14-22_0-1-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Set_Hostname_2021-09_14-22_0-1-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Set_Hostname_2021-09_14-22_0-1-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/screenshot_Set_Hostname_2021-09_14-22_0-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></p>
<h3>Connecting to PrusaSlicer (Add physical printer)</h3>
<div>Open PrusaSlicer and make sure the Original Prusa SL1/SL1S SPEED printer is selected as Printer. Then head to the <em>"Printer settings"</em> tab (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green square</span>) and click on the gear on the top menu (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>). An alternative is to right-click the gear next to the printer name, in the Plater view.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/4b33216f463152eb_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/4b33216f463152eb_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/4b33216f463152eb_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/4b33216f463152eb_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/4b33216f463152eb_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/4b33216f463152eb_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/4b33216f463152eb_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/b97c46d283681282_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>The two ways to 'Add Physical printer'.</em></p>
</div>
<div>To insert the IP address click on the <span class="key">Browse</span> button to show a list of detected devices on your network. Select your printer and click OK to confirm the selection. You can find your printer by the Hostname and by the serial number. In case the printer is not found, insert the IP address manually.</div>
<div><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Slicer-physical-printer-browse-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Slicer-physical-printer-browse-1-600x305.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Slicer-physical-printer-browse-1-800x407.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Slicer-physical-printer-browse-1-300x153.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Slicer-physical-printer-browse-1-768x391.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Slicer-physical-printer-browse-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="255"></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The Login credentials have to be inserted manually at all times. It serves as a verification between the SL1/SL1S SPEED printer and PrusaSlicer, don't share it with anyone. Choose the HTTP digest or API key based on what is on your printer, they must match.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; vertical-align: top;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-api-key-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-api-key-1-600x330.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-api-key-1-800x440.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-api-key-1-300x165.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-api-key-1-768x422.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-api-key-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="220"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; vertical-align: top;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-http-digest-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-http-digest-1-600x356.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-http-digest-1-800x474.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-http-digest-1-300x178.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-http-digest-1-768x455.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Physical-printer-http-digest-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="237"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><em>The window for adding a physical printer.</em></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The last step is to click on the <span class="key">Test</span> button to ensure the connection works properly. PrusaSlicer will notify you with a "Success" message. From now on you will be able to send the files directly via a new button, which will appear in the PrusaSlicer interface.</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>IMPORTANT:</strong> The printer must be turned ON and connected to the same network in order to be recognized.</div>
<h3>Uploading a print</h3>
<p>After the model is sliced and you are ready to print, click the <span class="key">G</span> button, located in the bottom-right, next to <span class="key">Export</span>. You will be prompted to give a file name and confirm the upload. Once received, you will be able to start the print from the <em>Print-menu,</em> on your Printer.</p>
<p>Pro tip: Once the file is sliced, use shortcut Ctrl+Shift+G to send the file.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/58b398d6f93c25c3_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/58b398d6f93c25c3_painted-534x400.jpeg 534w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/58b398d6f93c25c3_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/58b398d6f93c25c3_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/58b398d6f93c25c3_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/58b398d6f93c25c3_painted-1536x1151.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/58b398d6f93c25c3_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
</div>
<p></p>

Connecting Original Prusa SL1/SL1S to PrusaSlicer

<p>Both Original Prusa SL1 and SL1S SPEED have a growing library of resin print profiles in the PrusaSlicer, which were tested and verified by Prusa Research. However, the printers are also open to any other 3rd-party resins. <strong>The material has to be compatible with MSLA technology and cured with 405nm UV light.</strong> To achieve the best results with any compatible resin you need to find its exact exposure time.</p>
<p>For this reason, both <strong>SL1 and SL1S include a resin calibration feature.</strong> This helps you evaluate your resin using a set of printed objects, where each object from the set is cured with a different exposure time. Throughout this article, you will learn the procedure, and how to select the best object and exposure time.</p>
<p><strong>This procedure is as follows:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Prepare the printer.</li>
<li>Download the calibration projects.</li>
<li>Print the calibration projects.</li>
<li>Evaluate the printed objects.</li>
<li>Create a PrusaSlicer resin profile (preset).</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">This feature is implemented from version 1.3.0 on the SL1 and 1.7.0 on SL1S SPEED.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resin-calibration-4.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resin-calibration-4-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resin-calibration-4-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resin-calibration-4-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/resin-calibration-4-800x480.jpg 800w" data-hd-height="350" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Use a FEP film that is almost brand new, with no significant scratches or dirt. This is to ensure there are no defects that might affect the light passing through.</div>
<h3>What you need</h3>
<ul>
<li>A fully functional and calibrated SL1 or SL1S SPEED printer.</li>
<li><strong>Latest firmware installed:</strong> Navigate the menu to System -&gt; Firmware -&gt; and select Check for updates. Alternatively, the firmware file can be downloaded from our Downloads page and flashed using a memory stick. Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/firmware-updating-sl1-sl1s_124776">Firmware updating (SL1/SL1S)</a> for details.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Calibration Process</h3>
<ol>
<li>From the Home screen, enter <em>Settings -&gt; Support -&gt;</em> <em>Download Examples.</em></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-Screenshot-Support-2021-04_13-29_6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-Screenshot-Support-2021-04_13-29_6-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-Screenshot-Support-2021-04_13-29_6-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-Screenshot-Support-2021-04_13-29_6-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-Screenshot-Support-2021-04_13-29_6-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<ol start="3">
<li style="counter-increment: li 2;">Allow your SL1/SL1S to download and extract the example files. <em>This can take a minute depending on your internet connection.</em></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-downloading-cal-examples-2021-04_13-30_7.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-downloading-cal-examples-2021-04_13-30_7-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-downloading-cal-examples-2021-04_13-30_7-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-downloading-cal-examples-2021-04_13-30_7-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-downloading-cal-examples-2021-04_13-30_7-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<ol start="4">
<li style="counter-increment: li 3;">Navigate back to the Home-screen and select <em>Print -&gt; Local -&gt; Examples -&gt; Calibration Objects.</em> Here you will find a list of files for calibrating for different layer heights [<em>0.025 mm - 0.05 mm - 0.1 mm</em>]. Select the layer height you want to calibrate for. <em>If unsure, we recommend using the 0.05 mm layer height object.</em></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Projects_resin_calib_sl1s.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Projects_resin_calib_sl1s-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Projects_resin_calib_sl1s-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Projects_resin_calib_sl1s-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Projects_resin_calib_sl1s-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Projects_resin_calib_sl1s.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Not all resins are suitable for all layer heights. Pigment content and viscosity can impact how deep the UV light will penetrate.</strong> Read your resin's documentation or check with the manufacturer to be sure.</div>
<ol start="5">
<li style="counter-increment: li 4;">When you swipe to the right, the screen will have two choices - <em>Print Settings</em> and <em>Print</em>. If you press <em>Print Settings</em> you will see that you have 4 options: <em>Exposure [second], Exposure time incr. [second]</em>&nbsp;and <em>First Layer Expo. [second].</em>&nbsp;Here you can set the exposure time in and incremented time per object printed. Additionally, you can also <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/print-profile-sl1-sl1s_235270">change the speed profile for the print (Faster/Slower/High Viscosity)</a>.</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 50%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_pre_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_pre_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_pre_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_pre_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_pre_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_pre_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
<td style="width: 50%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/screenshot_Print_Settings_resincalib_SL1S.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="padding-left: 40px;"><strong>For exotic resins or types/brands that you do not know anything about,</strong> it is a good idea to explore the exposure times from a wide to a narrow range. Some industrial resins can require a very long exposure time (around 10s for SL1S or 30s for SL1). A good practice is <strong>starting with an increment of 1s for SL1S SPEED or 3s for SL1</strong>, to cover a wide range of exposure times. From the best-looking calibration objects, you can determine the more narrow range, before repeating the process with a shorter exposure increment to get more accurate results.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 40px;">To have an idea about approximate exposure time we recommend checking what the manufacturer of the resin state for similar types of printers. Take into account that the <strong>SL1 is RGB MSLA</strong> and <strong>SL1S SPEED is Mono MSLA</strong> technology<strong>.</strong> If you have any such comparable exposure times, you can narrow in the range of exposure times and incremented time.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">The SL1S SPEED, with its monochrome display, will cure most resins 2-3 times faster than the Original Prusa SL1.</div>
<ol start="6">
<li style="counter-increment: li 5;">At the fourth layer, the actual exposure times per object will be included as part of the model. Being physically printed with the object it makes the evaluation after the print is finished easier.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Print-layers-2021-04_18-06_11.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Print-layers-2021-04_18-06_11-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Print-layers-2021-04_18-06_11-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Print-layers-2021-04_18-06_11-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/SL1-screenshot-Print-layers-2021-04_18-06_11-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<ol start="7">
<li style="counter-increment: li 6;">As soon as the print is finished, wash and cure your print as normal, then take a closer look at the printed objects. You should look for:</li>
</ol>
<ul>
<li style="list-style-type: none;">
<ul>
<li style="list-style-type: none;">
<ul>
<li><strong>Missing elements/geometry</strong></li>
<li><strong>Deformations</strong></li>
<li><strong>Holes</strong></li>
<li><strong>Merged parts of geometry</strong></li>
<li><strong>Any other flaws</strong></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li style="list-style-type: none;">&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li style="list-style-type: none;">Take a look at the picture below used as an example. Notice that the frame of the glasses and the lenses are damaged or completely missing with an interval between 6 to 9 seconds. The first useable exposure time is 10 and 11 seconds.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/example_sl-1-calib_prints_scaled.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/example_sl-1-calib_prints_scaled-600x337.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/example_sl-1-calib_prints_scaled-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/example_sl-1-calib_prints_scaled-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/example_sl-1-calib_prints_scaled-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/example_sl-1-calib_prints_scaled-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/example_sl-1-calib_prints_scaled-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/example_sl-1-calib_prints_scaled.jpg 1000w" alt="" width="600" height="337"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Letters/digits are a good indicator of overexposure - they will be too thick and melt together.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/b1e896f14146dffd_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="302"><em>An example of how geometry forms can be found in the calibration object's glasses, where the actual glass within the frame will not be printed if exposure duration is set too low.</em></div>
<p style="text-align: left;">You can also use the 3D view of the <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/17577-sl1-resin-calibration-object">3D model itself at Printables.com</a> (formerly PrusaPrinters.org), or download it to your computer and open it there for inspection. Here you will see all the tiny details that this model has. However, not all resins are made to print fine details. Undefined details are not always a sign of underexposure.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calib_model_glasses_CS.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calib_model_glasses_CS-534x400.jpg 534w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calib_model_glasses_CS-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calib_model_glasses_CS-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calib_model_glasses_CS-768x575.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/calib_model_glasses_CS.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="450"><em>3D view of the calibration object at Printables.com</em></p>
<h3>Creating a PrusaSlicer preset</h3>
<p><strong>Did you find the best exposure time for your resin? Great!</strong> You can start a normal print right away, adjusting the exposure time on the printer's display before the print or you can create your own resin profile:</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Open PrusaSlicer</strong> and in the Plater view, select from the list of the printers (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow</span>), Original Prusa SL1/SL1S SPEED, depending on which you have.</li>
<li>From SLA print settings (<span style="color: #843fa1;">purple arrow</span>), select the layer height you want to calibrate the resin for. This will load all the available resins.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/7149d9b4796c7ef4_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/7149d9b4796c7ef4_painted-600x294.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/7149d9b4796c7ef4_painted-800x393.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/7149d9b4796c7ef4_painted-300x147.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/7149d9b4796c7ef4_painted-768x377.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/7149d9b4796c7ef4_painted-1536x754.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/7149d9b4796c7ef4_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="294"></p>
<ol>
<li>Click on the <strong>"Material settings"</strong> tab on top.</li>
<li>Select any resin from the dropdown list with the layer height you intend to calibrate for. It will be used as a base for your new profile. Then click on the <strong>"Save</strong>" icon (?) next to the list (<span style="color: #236fa1;">blue arrow</span>).</li>
<li>A dialogue will open up where you <strong>name the preset</strong> (e.g. "My new calibrated resin") and hit "OK".</li>
<li>In the new resin, the profile <strong>adjusts the fields "Initial Exposure time" and "Exposure time"</strong> (<span style="color: #ba372a;">red square</span>), which sets the time for which each layer of the sliced object is exposed to the UV light.</li>
<li>Now, you are good to go. Slice your next model and Happy Printing!</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/6ca8ff4a4be0dd50_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/6ca8ff4a4be0dd50_painted-600x294.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/6ca8ff4a4be0dd50_painted-800x393.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/6ca8ff4a4be0dd50_painted-300x147.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/6ca8ff4a4be0dd50_painted-768x377.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/6ca8ff4a4be0dd50_painted-1536x754.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/6ca8ff4a4be0dd50_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="294"></p>
<h3>Video</h3>
<p>The video below covers the procedure on the Original Prusa SL1, but the procedure for the SL1S SPEED is almost the same.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 80px;"><iframe loading="lazy" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_rRCGzKNTxc" width="600" height="336" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>
<p></p>

Resin Calibration (SL1/SL1S)

<div class="warning-callout"><strong>警告：</strong>Prusa ConnectおよびPrusaLinkは現在ベータ版であり、以下の情報は今後のリリースで変更される可能性があります。</div>
<p>Prusa ConnectとPrusaLinkは、弊社が社内で開発した2つのリモートプリントソリューションです。その起源は、プラハ本社にある記録的な大規模プリントファーム&nbsp;<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/guinness-world-records-1096-original-prusa-3d-printers-running-at-the-same-time_30677/">record-sized print farm located in Prague HQ</a>で使用されている管理システムにあります。</p>
<ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Prusa Connect</strong> は、どこからでも利用できるリモートプリントのためのクラウドサービスです。</li>
<li><strong>PrusaLink</strong>* は、ローカルネットワークからアクセス可能なプリンタ上でローカルに動作するクライアントサイドです。</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<p><em>*旧称：Prusa Connect Local</em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Prusa Connectとは？</h2>
<p>Prusa Connect (<a href="http://connect.prusa3d.com">connect.prusa3d.com</a>) を使用すると、世界中どこからでも個々のプリンタを制御したり、プリントファームを管理したりすることができます。</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/9f18d1552ef82ea7ef4960a43a86a17b.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained" alt="" width="900" height="607" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Prusa Connectインターフェース（クラウドサービス）の例</em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>一部のPrusaプリンタ（下記リスト参照）をお持ちの方は無料でご利用いただけます。Gコードと遠隔データ用に1GBのクラウドストレージを無料でご利用いただけます。機能の全リストおよびエンドユーザーや企業向けの価格は、後日発表されます。</p>
<p>さらに、Prusa Connectは各プリンタの使用状況を個別に監視し、生産環境の貴重な統計情報を提供します。</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h2>PrusaLinkとは？</h2>
<p>Octoprintと同様に、このリモートプリンター管理システムは、Prusaプリンタ上でローカルに動作します。</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/12af6bd49830e088.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink and Prusa Connect explained" alt="" width="1451" height="800" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>PrusaLinkインターフェース（ローカルネットワーク）の例</em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>主な目的は、プリンタとPrusaConnectクラウド間の通信を行うことです。副次的な機能として、ローカル（ホーム）ネットワークでのみ使用できるウェブインターフェースを提供します。プリンタのIPアドレスをWebブラウザに貼り付けるだけでアクセスできるようになります。PrusaLinkを使用するとブラウザを通じて、プリンタの監視、Gコードのアップロード、プリントの開始またはキャンセルができます。</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h2>PrusaLinkとPrusa Connectのインストールと設定方法は？</h2>
<p>Prusa Connectを使用するには、まずプリンタにPrusaLinkをセットアップする必要があります。以下のガイドでは、すべてのプロセスを順を追って説明します。</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 135.328125px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 33.251534333333%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>FDM プリンタ</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 21.109375px;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.251534333333%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa <strong>MK3.9 / MK4</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_417586">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.10937536px;">
<td style="width: 33.251534333333%; height: 21.10937536px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK3/S/+</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 21.10937536px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">via RPi / RPi Zero (GPIO</a>/<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 21.10937536px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 33.251534333333%; height: 18px;">Original Prusa i3 <strong>MK2.5/S</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">via RPi (USB)</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 18px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 33.251534333333%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>XL</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_419630">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_420001">Available</a></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.109375px;">
<td style="width: 33.251534333333%; height: 21.109375px;">Original Prusa <strong>MINI / MINI +</strong></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 21.109375px;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 33.374233333%; height: 21.109375px;">TBA (アルファ版が利用可能)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>SLA プリンタ</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><strong>PrusaLink</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;"><strong>Prusa Connect</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1S SPEED</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.158%;">Original Prusa <strong>SL1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 32.158%;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">built-in</a></td>
<td style="width: 32.162%;">TBA (work in progress)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>
<h3>次世代 Original Prusa プリンタ</h3>
<p><strong>MK4、 MK3.9、XL、MINI/+、SL1/SL1S</strong>など、今後発売されるモデルにはPrusaLINKが内蔵されています。プリンタは、Wi-Fiまたは有線LAN（イーサネット）ネットワークで接続できます。</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MK4)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_417586">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (MK4)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_419630">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (XL)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-xl-firmware-up-to-4-7-5_420001">Adding the printer to Prusa Connect (XL)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/installing-wi-fi-and-prusalink-mini-_316781">Wi-Fi and PrusaLink setup (MINI/+)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/prusalink-sl1-sl1s_146094">PrusaLink (SL1/S)</a></li>
</ul>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ or MK2.5/S</h3>
<p>これらのプリンタには十分な性能がないため、追加のハードウェアが必要になります。この場合、PrusaLinkの名称は、Raspberry Pi（RPi）という必要なハードウェア・ソリューションも含みます。PrusaLinkは、製造中止となった<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/prusaprint-rpi-zero-and-octoprint_2180">PrusaPrintソリューション</a>(OctoprintとRPi Zero W)の代替品です。</p>
<h4>i3（MK3/S/+またはMK2.5/S）用にどのRaspberry Piを購入すれば良いか</h4>
<p>MK3/S/+では、PrusaLinkとPrusa Connectを動作させるためにRaspberry Pi（RPi）を入手する必要があります。サポートされているRPiボードは以下の通りです。これから新しくRPiボードを購入する場合は、最新世代のものを購入することを強くお勧めします。</p>
<p>MK3/S/+では、RPi Zeroを<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">プリンタのメインボードに直接</a>取り付けるか、<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB接続</a>を使用します。<br />MK2.5/Sでは、RPiに<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-prusa-connect-with-rpi-3-4-usb-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-_469341">USB接続</a>を使用する必要があります。PrusaLinkとPrusaConnectのセットアップは、MK3/S/+とほぼ同様です。</p>
<p>RPiには内蔵ストレージがないので、MicroSDカードを用意する必要があります。推奨SDカードは Micro SD、SDHC規格、Class 10、8GB以上です。できれば、RPiで動作することが知られている有名ブランドのカードを選んでください。有名ブランドのカードであっても、データを失わないという保証はないので、定期的にバックアップを取ることを推奨します。</p>
<p><strong>サポートするボード (Einsy RamboボードとGPIO接続)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero W</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>サポートするボード (USB接続)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi 4</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3+</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>サポートしないボード</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Raspberry Pi Zero (without Wi-Fi) and older</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 2 and older</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>RPi Zero W/2が接続されているプリンタの電源が入っているときにやってはいけないこと：<br /></strong><br />- プリンタの軸は手で動かさないでください！Move Axisメニューのみを使用してください。<br />- RPiを接続したり外したりしないでください。<br />- RPi内部のmicroSDカードを抜き差ししないでください。<br />- RPiボードには触れないでください。<br />- RPiの接続や給電には、弊社が推奨する方法以外は使用しないでください。<br />- 弊社が発行する公式ドキュメントのガイダンスに従ってください。<br />- 弊社は、第三者のハードウェアに起因する損害について責任を負いません。</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect setup (MK3/S/+)</a></li>
<li><a>Printing on MK3/S/+ via PrusaLink</a>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>usaLink/Prusa Connect with RPi 3/4 (MK2.5/S MK3/S/+)]</li>
</ul>
<h3><strong>Prusa ConnectおよびPrusaLinkに関連するその他のガイド:</strong></h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/camera-setup-for-prusalink-prusa-connect_470943">Camera setup for PrusaLink / Prusa Connect</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/sending-files-from-prusaslicer-to-prusalink_222961">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to PrusaLink</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/sending-g-codes-to-printer-via-network-prusaconnect-prusalink-octoprint_196761">Sending files from PrusaSlicer to printer via network (Prusa Connect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusa-connect-telegram-notifications-setup_529662">Prusa Connect - Telegram notifications setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusa-connect-discord-notifications-setup_536115">Prusa Connect - Discord notifications setup</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/connecting-original-prusa-sl1-sl1s-to-prusaslicer_133977">Connecting SL1/S to PrusaSlicer</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">Internet Connection (SL1/S)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/prusa-connect-local-mini_133279">Prusa Connect Local (Old firmware connected via Ethernet, Obsolete guide) (MINI/+)</a>
</li>
</ul>


Prusa ConnectとPrusaLink について

<p>The Original Prusa SL1 has an update-server, which is checking for updates automatically. There is no need to do it manually, but this option is still possible.</p>
<p>Starting from firmware 1.5.0, you can also choose to check for beta versions of the firmware. Note that the beta versions are the ones that have not been officially released, and might have bugs still to be fixed before the final release.</p>
<h3>OTA Firmware upgrade/downgrade</h3>
<p>If your printer is <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/internet-connection-sl1-sl1s_1981">connected to the internet</a>, it can check whether a newer firmware is available online. Go to the <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Firmware</em>. There, you can 'Check for updates' and select if you wish to receive Beta updates or not.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Sl1-Switch_to_beta.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Sl1-Switch_to_beta-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Sl1-Switch_to_beta-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Sl1-Switch_to_beta-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Sl1-Switch_to_beta-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="240"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>If any updates are available, select the option 'Download now', and the new firmware will be shown to be downloaded and installed.</p>
<h4>Downgrade</h4>
<p>Starting from firmware 1.5.0, you can also easily downgrade the firmware by selecting the option in the menu. The printer will downgrade the firmware and restart. Note that you can only downgrade once from the current firmware. For example, if you have firmware 1.5.0 you can downgrade to 1.4.2, but further downgrades are not possible.</p>
<h3>USB firmware upgrade/downgrade</h3>
<p>If the printer is not connected to the internet, you can update or downgrade the firmware using a USB flash drive.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/#driver-sl1">Download the firmware</a> and extract the .zip file.</li>
<li>Copy the .raucb firmware file to the root directory of a USB flash drive (Not within a folder).</li>
<li>Plug the USB flash drive into the front USB port of the printer.</li>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Firmware</em>. The system will recognize the file on the drive, and show the option at the bottom of the menu. Tap the file name to update the firmware.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware-usb.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware-usb-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware-usb-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware-usb-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-firmware-usb-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360"></p>
<p></p>


Firmware updating (SL1/SL1S)

How to replace a filter (SL1/SL1S)

<p>In this guide, we will show you what to do when your SL1 print is successfully finished and you want to remove it from the metal platform.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">When handling resins, <strong>always wear protective gloves</strong> and always <strong>clean up any drops</strong> of resin around the printer. In case the resin gets into contact with your skin, <strong>wash it off immediately with water and soap</strong>. If you experience discomfort (such as itching) or if the resin got in your eyes, seek out medical assistance immediately.</div>
<ol>
<li>After the printing process finishes, open the lid and place the black plastic tray on the printer as depicted below.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7jdpDnuySIsXUdzV7t6LU6jnTDSScM_0bisVDj3fgKk528fvp__buClIcgTSh9vUakOPoXUs4OGrKUUJVhtpAsNS1qR6jdtEVXwivxMH-YzU9HXCLQSLkB1wzmVP7N3PgAZxn_7-.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7jdpDnuySIsXUdzV7t6LU6jnTDSScM_0bisVDj3fgKk528fvp__buClIcgTSh9vUakOPoXUs4OGrKUUJVhtpAsNS1qR6jdtEVXwivxMH-YzU9HXCLQSLkB1wzmVP7N3PgAZxn_7--300x236.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7jdpDnuySIsXUdzV7t6LU6jnTDSScM_0bisVDj3fgKk528fvp__buClIcgTSh9vUakOPoXUs4OGrKUUJVhtpAsNS1qR6jdtEVXwivxMH-YzU9HXCLQSLkB1wzmVP7N3PgAZxn_7--507x400.png 507w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7jdpDnuySIsXUdzV7t6LU6jnTDSScM_0bisVDj3fgKk528fvp__buClIcgTSh9vUakOPoXUs4OGrKUUJVhtpAsNS1qR6jdtEVXwivxMH-YzU9HXCLQSLkB1wzmVP7N3PgAZxn_7--768x605.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/7jdpDnuySIsXUdzV7t6LU6jnTDSScM_0bisVDj3fgKk528fvp__buClIcgTSh9vUakOPoXUs4OGrKUUJVhtpAsNS1qR6jdtEVXwivxMH-YzU9HXCLQSLkB1wzmVP7N3PgAZxn_7--761x600.png 761w" alt="" width="564" height="445"></p>
<ol start="2">
<li>Use a plastic spatula or paper towels to wipe the top part of the printing platform clean.</li>
<li>Unscrew the black printed knob at the top to unlock the printing platform.</li>
<li>Carefully slide the printing platform out (pull it towards you), and turn it sideways, so the remaining resin goes back to the tank or to the tray.</li>
<li>Use the bundled metal spatula to remove the print from the printing platform. Be careful not to scratch the platform.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DihrqaShVDcuVEn41UeBKoO-CmPg1ZKPkr5yU_J1sXgy4zmwAW7jfAMnR5IdfHrpiEgyawzJTdovmcGSdA5j0I3GouYHWV38Zlw4rHgltjnHwBYILUCl-bJk-_PeTw5PPqDmkUby.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DihrqaShVDcuVEn41UeBKoO-CmPg1ZKPkr5yU_J1sXgy4zmwAW7jfAMnR5IdfHrpiEgyawzJTdovmcGSdA5j0I3GouYHWV38Zlw4rHgltjnHwBYILUCl-bJk-_PeTw5PPqDmkUby-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DihrqaShVDcuVEn41UeBKoO-CmPg1ZKPkr5yU_J1sXgy4zmwAW7jfAMnR5IdfHrpiEgyawzJTdovmcGSdA5j0I3GouYHWV38Zlw4rHgltjnHwBYILUCl-bJk-_PeTw5PPqDmkUby-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DihrqaShVDcuVEn41UeBKoO-CmPg1ZKPkr5yU_J1sXgy4zmwAW7jfAMnR5IdfHrpiEgyawzJTdovmcGSdA5j0I3GouYHWV38Zlw4rHgltjnHwBYILUCl-bJk-_PeTw5PPqDmkUby-768x432.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DihrqaShVDcuVEn41UeBKoO-CmPg1ZKPkr5yU_J1sXgy4zmwAW7jfAMnR5IdfHrpiEgyawzJTdovmcGSdA5j0I3GouYHWV38Zlw4rHgltjnHwBYILUCl-bJk-_PeTw5PPqDmkUby-800x450.png 800w" alt="" width="582" height="328"></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do NOT use your fingernails</strong> to remove the prints since the plastic can easily get under your nails and break off. Besides, you should still be <strong>wearing gloves</strong>.</div>
<p>You should clean the printing platform thoroughly after every print - drops of liquid resin can solidify when exposed to sunlight, which would make them difficult to remove. Clean the channel at the top of the printing platform thoroughly. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the platform.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TAVOlQWuLnusb0-n26lviFeUkfwZ7Oiqj7xLk7KAyBHJfqv94xR_4CXS1ceVLX2vBb_yrCAXdKvu4AuRIpJCR5FB-XsO0U6D_lr8oWmzXO5Aoh_-Q2377JCyRhRQ2yqO3d2UpPsV.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TAVOlQWuLnusb0-n26lviFeUkfwZ7Oiqj7xLk7KAyBHJfqv94xR_4CXS1ceVLX2vBb_yrCAXdKvu4AuRIpJCR5FB-XsO0U6D_lr8oWmzXO5Aoh_-Q2377JCyRhRQ2yqO3d2UpPsV-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TAVOlQWuLnusb0-n26lviFeUkfwZ7Oiqj7xLk7KAyBHJfqv94xR_4CXS1ceVLX2vBb_yrCAXdKvu4AuRIpJCR5FB-XsO0U6D_lr8oWmzXO5Aoh_-Q2377JCyRhRQ2yqO3d2UpPsV-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TAVOlQWuLnusb0-n26lviFeUkfwZ7Oiqj7xLk7KAyBHJfqv94xR_4CXS1ceVLX2vBb_yrCAXdKvu4AuRIpJCR5FB-XsO0U6D_lr8oWmzXO5Aoh_-Q2377JCyRhRQ2yqO3d2UpPsV-768x432.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/TAVOlQWuLnusb0-n26lviFeUkfwZ7Oiqj7xLk7KAyBHJfqv94xR_4CXS1ceVLX2vBb_yrCAXdKvu4AuRIpJCR5FB-XsO0U6D_lr8oWmzXO5Aoh_-Q2377JCyRhRQ2yqO3d2UpPsV-800x450.png 800w" alt="" width="570" height="321"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Inspect the printed sample object. Check for any inaccuracies, missing parts, visible layers/lines, dents, blobs, or other defects.</div>
<p></p>


SL1/SL1S print removing

<p>プリンターのネジを外そうとしたときに、ネジが外れないままが回り続けてしまう場合、ネジが取れていることを意味します。</p>
<p>ネジに穴をあけたり、エキストラクターを使用した経験がある場合は、これらの工具を使用することをお勧めします。経験のない方は無理をせず、下記の要領で行ってください。</p>
<div class="warning-callout">インターネット上で見かける方法が、電子機器や繊細な部品に特化したものでない場合は、従わないようにしてください。木工に特化した方法は、プリンタを損傷する可能性があります。</div>
<div class="tip-callout">強力な磁石があれば、六角レンチに取り付けて、可能な限りゴミを取り除き、ネジを抜きやすくすることができます。</div>
<ol>
<li>六角レンチが違う：間違った六角レンチを使用しているか、工具が損傷している可能性があります。六角レンチの反対側を使用してみてください。特に小さいネジの場合、このようなことが起こる可能性があります。</li>
<li>ネジのグリップを良くする：ネジの頭が損傷している場合、ネジの頭と六角レンチの間に何かを挟むとグリップが良くなります。最もよく使われるのは幅広の輪ゴムですが、他にもラテックス手袋、アルミホイル、スチールウールなどを使うことができます。ネジに一定の力を加え、ネジが抜けるまでゆっくりとキーを回してください。</li>
<li>ペンチ：ネジの頭が見える場合は、ペンチでネジの頭をしっかり持ち、ネジが緩むまでペンチを回してみてください。</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">破損したネジを取り外した後は、二度と使用しないように捨ててください。</div>


頭が潰れてしまったネジの外し方

How to replace the power button (SL1/SL1S)

<h2>Regular Printer Maintenance</h2>
<p>Although the Original Prusa SL1/SL1S has a number of smart sensors and has been carefully designed to be easy to use, it’s still a machine and requires regular maintenance and care. There are several key areas that require attention if you want to keep your printer in good shape for a long time.</p>
<h2>Keeping the printer clean</h2>
<p>The key to a trouble-free experience is first and foremost keeping the printer clean. Resins are liquids and they are easily spilled. Every time you use the printer, make sure you are not leaving drops or stains of liquid anywhere. A liquid resin will solidify even in regular daylight, making it much more difficult to remove compared to its liquid form.</p>
<p>When removing the printing platform / printed objects, use the black plastic tray to shield the printer from drops of resin. Always keep a bundle of soft paper towels near the printer, so you can wipe any spilled resin/resin drops immediately. To clean drops of resin more effectively, use a piece of cloth/paper towel dipped in isopropyl alcohol. <strong>Do not use alcohol or acetone on the FEP film!</strong> For more delicate surfaces (such as the display), use a mix of water and dishwashing product.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/MQZlG3QWIAuc7gKVmTbJiyrDAes-WJHdqugb4BYTqQuCvd6cBpIVr3A1qcfGEOvKOYTSNcLcw185inG3h9oW1BNwe2Xvxe9tMHXUgWy0jIkrWkcW-B8oThTahiqMaKq4DcFDMhZJ"></p>
<p>A good practice is to place a plastic tablecloth under the printer for easier cleaning. However, be careful - the tablecloth must not block the fan on the underside of the printer.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not wash the lid with any alcohol, acetone or chlorine! Also, do not use rough materials to clean the lid (e.g. sanding paper, rough sponges).</div>
<p>The lid is made of acrylic glass and it has a special surface finish to block UV light from reaching the printing chamber. You can clean it with standard products for cleaning glass, as long as it does not contain any alcohol, acetone or chlorine. It would damage the acrylic glass.</p>
<h2>FEP film / Tank maintenance</h2>
<p>Empty the resin tank after each print. The tank has one corner which has a different shape than the other three. Use it in combination with a funnel to pour the resin out of the tank into a bottle. Don’t mix used resin with unused liquid. Instead, use a new bottle.</p>
<p>Inspect the resin tank bottom before and after each print. Look for any scratches, dents, or holes. If the FEP film is damaged, replace it immediately, otherwise, you’re risking a resin spillage.</p>
<p>If the FEP film has a grey-ish tint, you can restore it to its original look by washing it with warm water with a bit of dishwashing soap (or even regular soap) before you start printing again. Don’t print with a dirty or damaged FEP film, as it will negatively impact the print quality. It may even lead to damage to your printer. <strong>NEVER use isopropyl alcohol to clean the FEP film!</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/p6XN4SBlXtuICMnzlbZedFvGBjH4dw3r2_FswtmjHsNV5jkup-kGMt53Nx8Cbfn_keZ8ObFosQCKwCl4tCSnPDwC0jHMjagvjOsJRSEjq_cNy9BZQMHE-UWBZwrkVYkSvqar6dgk"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Cleaning the FEP film - before and after.</em></p>
<h2>Printing platform maintenance</h2>
<h2><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/TAVOlQWuLnusb0-n26lviFeUkfwZ7Oiqj7xLk7KAyBHJfqv94xR_4CXS1ceVLX2vBb_yrCAXdKvu4AuRIpJCR5FB-XsO0U6D_lr8oWmzXO5Aoh_-Q2377JCyRhRQ2yqO3d2UpPsV" width="600"></h2>
<p>The platform should be cleaned thoroughly after every print - usually, there will be some leftover resin on the platform. Once a print finishes, place the black tray on the printer and use paper towels or a spatula to wipe the top of the platform clean, then proceed to remove the platform and the printed object.</p>
<p>Once the object is removed, use isopropyl alcohol and paper towels to clean the printing platform thoroughly. Leaving liquid resin on the platform for extended periods of time can lead to solidifying the material.</p>
<p>After removing an object, use a metal spatula to scrape any remnants of the previous print and use paper towels to wipe the underside of the printing platform clean - make sure that the printing platform is nice and shiny before you start the next print. Any leftovers on the printing platform (leftover supports, pads) could potentially damage the bottom of the resin tank or even the display. Surface scratches on the print platform won’t affect the quality of the print.</p>
<p>After you clean the printing platform with isopropyl alcohol, dry it thoroughly!</p>
<h2>Exposure screen maintenance</h2>
<p>Use a damp cloth or LCD cleaning spray to keep the glass / LCD display clean. Don’t use any rough materials (sanding paper) or low-quality paper towels, otherwise, you might scratch the surface. Make sure that the print display is clean before you start a print and that there are no smudges, stains, scratches, or cracks.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not use sharp objects, such as metal spatulas, knives, flat screwdrivers, and similar tools to remove dirt or resin from the protective glass. Instead, use IPA or dishwashing products in combination with soft paper towels to avoid scratching the display.</div>
<h2>Acrylic lid</h2>
<p>The lid has three major functions: it protects the printed model from potential damage, helps to contain resin fumes inside the box and blocks a significant amount of UV light so it doesn’t reach the printing chamber. Especially the last part is important - if you leave the resin in the tank and keep the lid open, it can start to solidify quickly depending on the environment.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The lid won’t stop 100% of UV light - do not place the 3D printer next to a window, otherwise, the sunlight might cure the resin in the tank.</div>
<p>This also means that you shouldn’t disable the cover check. It may be tempting to watch the print process, but for the sake of better results and safer operation, keep the lid closed during the print. You can, of course, open it for a quick check and then close it again.</p>
<p>Don’t run the printer with the lower case panels removed or with any parts missing. The case helps to contain the UV light.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not wash the lid with any alcohol, acetone or chlorine! Also, do not use rough materials to clean the lid (e.g. sanding paper, rough sponges).</div>
<h2>UV light and potential health risks</h2>
<p>Eyes are very sensitive to UV light and UV radiation because the cornea absorbs high amounts of UV light. Extended exposure to strong UV light may lead to corneal damage, macular degeneration, or cataracts - these conditions can ultimately lead to blindness.</p>
<p>This is why the Original Prusa SL1/SL1S is designed to contain the UV light inside, which means that when used according to the instructions in the manual, there are no health risks related to UV radiation during regular use.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">DO NOT LOOK DIRECTLY INTO THE UV LIGHT AND DO NOT PRINT WITH THE BODY COVER REMOVED! If you want to check the UV led panel, look at it through your phone camera app or take a photo, so you won’t look directly into the UV light.</div>
<h2>Fan cleaning / Removing dust<img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/OXmXCXUGLeYvwDgPVq6VKr_R_lRbA8QxmQxl9Pe4RWwe8c_qFR980oTVb58ZWHVQPXNezMo02yYWEO9y6i8yg-Gbwy8H3DDqgWZlD-IBGo1NID07JgOiydDnJxeaknEhFL6Vb5jn"></h2>
<p>It’s a good practice to clean the fans from time to time, especially if you have pets at home - the recommended time period will vary depending on the environment, in which the SL1/SL1S is used. In general, it’s good to inspect the printer every 6-8 weeks. There are three fans placed inside the printer. You can get to the side fan and bottom fan by removing the main body cover.</p>
<p>First, turn off the printer and disconnect it from the power source. Locate eight screws on the sides of the printer (four on each side) and remove them with an Allen key. Then carefully slide the body cover out. Be careful not to damage any cables which are attached to the power button. This will give you better access to two fans. Use a can of compressed air to clean the fans carefully.</p>
<p>The third fan is located on the backside of the printer. Locate two screws holding a small door closed and remove them. Open the door and use a can of compressed air to clean the fan.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Never blow compressed air on running fans!</div>
<p>Dust can also accumulate on the underside of the display and on the reflector. You can clean these parts carefully with compressed air. First, unscrew the eight screws holding the display in place, then slowly and carefully remove the display - be careful not to damage the display’s wires. Then, use compressed air from a distance of about 30 cm to clean out the dust particles gently. Do not use sharp or rough objects!</p>
<h2>Carbon filter replacement</h2>
<p>Check the carbon filter from time to time to ensure it is in good shape. The carbon filter is located on the backside of the printer under a small door. Use an Allen key to remove two screws holding the door shut. Open the door and remove the filter. Check if it is in good shape, and consider replacing it if it isn’t.</p>
<h2>Tower maintenance</h2>
<p>The tower (Z-axis consisting of the trapezoidal rod and the cantilever) requires little to no regular maintenance. In case the printer starts making unwanted noises when lifting or raising the platform, consider applying a lubricant on the trapezoidal rod - any good super lube will do the trick.</p>
<h2>Tilt maintenance</h2>
<p>The key to a long-lasting and smoothly running tilt bed is simple: keep it as clean as possible. Use the included plastic tray every time you manipulate the resin or the printing platform with the finished print. The tray will stop the resin from spilling over the tilt bed.</p>
<p></p>


SL1/SL1S maintenance

How to replace the USB connector (SL1/SL1S)

<p>Liquid resins are photosensitive materials used for printing on DLP, SLA and MSLA 3D printers. Resins are also known as photopolymers and they are <strong>cured (solidified) by UV light</strong> - this also includes sunlight. Compared to filaments for FFF/FDM printers, the major difference is that there are not various materials such as PLA, PETG or ASA. There&rsquo;s just THE resin; a base material that can be further enhanced with added colors or additives. The typical effects of additives would be increased hardness or toughness of the printed object.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">The Original Prusa SL1 is a MSLA 3D printer that is compatible with 405nm resins.</div>
<p>Resins usually consist of three basic components:</p>
<ul>
<li>The core of the resin (monomers and oligomers)</li>
<li>Photoinitiators - molecules reacting to UV light, which initiate the solidifying process</li>
<li>Additives - admixtures that change the color and properties of the resin</li>
</ul>
<h2>Important information about resins</h2>
<p>There&rsquo;s a couple of things to keep in mind when working with resins:</p>
<ul>
<li>Wear gloves to avoid direct contact of the resin with your skin</li>
<li>A simple respirator is recommended</li>
<li>Keep out of the reach of children and pets</li>
<li>Shake the bottle well before every use for around 10 seconds (make sure the lid is securely tightened before doing so)</li>
<li>Wash with water and soap in case the resin gets in contact with skin/eyes</li>
<li>If you experience itching or any kind of discomfort after skin contact, seek out medical assistance</li>
<li>Keep away from light, store in opaque bottles</li>
<li>Keep at room temperature (18&deg;-32&deg;C), lower temperature changes the viscosity of the resin</li>
<li>Do not store in dusty areas</li>
<li>Resin produces fumes - keep the room ventilated during printing</li>
<li>Some people may be allergic to resins - in case you experience any kind of discomfort (itching, rash), stop using the machine and contact a doctor</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not throw resin bottles (empty or full) into regular waste!</div>
<p>Liquid resins should be <strong>treated as dangerous chemicals</strong> and you should follow your country&rsquo;s laws regarding disposing of dangerous chemicals. There are usually special containers (e.g. oily waste cans) available for the public located near gas stations etc.</p>
<h2>Which resins to buy?</h2>
<p>Once you start looking for resins to purchase, always check the wavelength of the resin - it determines at which wavelength the solidifying process starts. The Original Prusa SL1 printer is calibrated for 405nm resins and has no brand restrictions. Since it&rsquo;s an open-source machine, you can choose any brand of resin you like, as long as it is compatible with the 405nm wavelength. However, always use recommended exposure times for the resin of your choice - extremely incompatible times may even lead to your printer getting damaged (e.g. setting 30 second curing time for a resin that solidifies in 6&nbsp;seconds).</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Some casting/dental resins should not be shaken, due to air bubbles.</div>
<p>Resins should be stored in their original containers and properly sealed, ideally in a dark room with a stable temperature. If the original container is damaged, use a non-transparent plastic bottle and the bundled funnel that came with the printer to pour the resin in it. Never store resin in bottles from drinks - if you have to, label it clearly. Do not store resins in cold places as it may lead to gelation of the resin.</p>
<h2>Types of resins</h2>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 776px; border-style: dotted; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; height: 657px;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 207.2px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 50px;">
<p>Material type</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 550.4px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 50px;">
<p>Properties</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 87px;">
<td style="width: 207.2px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 87px;">
<p>Standard resin</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 550.4px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 87px;">
<ul>
<li>Smooth surface, lots of details</li>
<li>Fragile</li>
<li>Not suitable for mechanical parts</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 68px;">
<td style="width: 207.2px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 68px;">
<p>Clear resin</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 550.4px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 68px;">
<ul>
<li>Semi-transparent</li>
<li>Can be turned nearly fully transparent through post-processing</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 87px;">
<td style="width: 207.2px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 87px;">
<p>Casting resin</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 550.4px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 87px;">
<ul>
<li>Lots of details</li>
<li>Great for preparation of casting forms</li>
<li>Little to no remnants after burning the resin</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 105px;">
<td style="width: 207.2px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 105px;">
<p>Hard and resistant resins</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 550.4px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 105px;">
<ul>
<li>Similar to ABS or PP materials</li>
<li>Partially flexible</li>
<li>Suitable for mechanical parts</li>
<li>Low resistance to high temperatures</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 87px;">
<td style="width: 207.2px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 87px;">
<p>Heat-resistant resin</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 550.4px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 87px;">
<ul>
<li>Highly temperature-resistant</li>
<li>Used for injection forms</li>
<li>Expensive</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 105px;">
<td style="width: 207.2px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 105px;">
<p>Bio-compatible resins</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 550.4px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 105px;">
<ul>
<li>Non-toxic</li>
<li>Suitable for dental implants manufacturing</li>
<li>Abrasion-resistant</li>
<li>Expensive</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 68px;">
<td style="width: 207.2px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 68px;">
<p>Flexible resin</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 550.4px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; height: 68px;">
<ul>
<li>Similar to rubber (70A hardness)</li>
<li>Lower resolution of printed parts</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p></p>


Resins

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<p>When printing various resins, you may notice a more or less significant yellowing effect after curing your models. This affects most MSLA materials, including all of our Prusament Model resins. The most significant color difference between the uncured model (usually called <a href="https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/greenbody">green body</a>) and the post-cured model can be seen in Alabaster White resin.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/b0cfa8b8826827b41ee21c09daba1c00.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Resin yellowing and how to reduce it" alt="" width="2506" height="1410" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p><em>Yellowing gradient with various post-curing times. The whitest model is an uncured model (green body), the yellowest was post-cured for 60 min at CW1S.</em></p>
<p>However, the yellowing is a partly reversible process and with just a little help, it can be easily minimized. Under some conditions, the final post-cured model can reach a color tone very similar to the color of the liquid resin.</p>
<h3>The proper post-curing process</h3>
<p>The first important step is curing the model. This step is important for every freshly printed (and washed) MSLA part because it eliminates tackiness, reduces resin toxicity, and improves mechanical properties. However, the post-curing comes with noticeable yellowing, which gets more significant with long post-curing times. At some point, the yellowing effect might become pretty much irreversible. For example, with 60 minutes of curing time, the model will remain yellowish, even after the de-yellowing process.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Finding a proper curing time that gives the model desired mechanical properties and keeps the yellowing at a minimum may require some testing, as the values differ for various colors and materials.</div>
<p>Suppose you require the final color to be as close to the liquid resin as possible and don’t need the best mechanical properties. In that case, we recommend choosing shorter curing times (min. 3 minutes for Prusament Model resins).</p>
<p>In any case, the model surface should be exposed to the UV light as evenly as possible. Although the CW1S has an in-built rotating platform, some surfaces may remain uncured, for example, the model's base. This can be easily fixed by flipping the part during the curing process in CW1S. Remember that flipping the model during the curing prolongs the overall curing time.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Example: Curing a simple cube for 6 minutes while flipping it once upside down means that both the top and bottom faces will be cured only for 3 min.</div>
<h3>The proper de-yellowing process</h3>
<p>There are two ways of de-yellowing the color:</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Wait several days.</strong> <br />The photopolymerization process is a complex series of chemical reactions that occur not only during the printing and post-curing but even several days after, before becoming completely stable. This also includes the de-yellowing process. There is really no need to do anything to reach the final and stable color, although it takes some time. If you leave the model at room temperature, it will slowly lose the yellowish hue and return almost to its original (uncured) color in several days.
<div class="note-callout">There is no exact number of “de-yellowing days” as it varies a lot between colors and the length of the post-curing process. The color change is most significant during the first hours after post-curing, then gradually slows down until it stops. Generally, the golden rule is to wait as long as possible.</div>
</li>
<li><strong>Heat the model at CW1S</strong><br />Heating significantly accelerates the internal chemical reactions that take part after post-curing. What takes several days at room temperature may be done at increased temperature in a matter of hours. If you have the CW1S, simply use the resin preheat mode set to 60 °C and run it with the post-cured model as long as possible (at least a few hours). The 60 °C temperature is the highest that can be set on the CW1S and the highest temperature the Prusament Model resin should survive without deformation.
<div class="note-callout">You can use other machines for de-yellowing too. Also, in theory, even higher temperatures may be used for a more significant and faster effect. However, this will lead to a deformation and possibly even destruction of the model.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/5a6eaa631df3f8093d060d2d01efdd65.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Resin yellowing and how to reduce it" alt="" width="2506" height="1410" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p><em>Comparison between the uncured model (left), freshly cured model (right), and de-yellowed model (middle). Both right and middle models were cured for 15 minutes at CW1S, but the middle one was de-yellowed for 120 minutes at 60 °C.</em></p>
<p></p>


Resin yellowing and how to reduce it

<p>The firmware can be installed on both SL1 and SL1S SPEED, it will recognize the printer based on the print display and set the parameters accordingly.</p>
<ul>
<li>Updated Wizards and Selftest wizard</li>
<li>SL1S SPEED print profiles</li>
<li>Speed of first layers</li>
<li>Automatic print adjustments (large objects)</li>
<li>New power button behavior</li>
<li>Transition to DBus for IPC</li>
<li>Improved translations and localisations</li>
<li>Improved screensaver</li>
<li>Improved logging procedure</li>
<li>PrusaLink updates</li>
<li>Print display time counter</li>
<li>Improved cooling</li>
<li>Screen compositor Weston</li>
</ul>
<p></p>


1.6.0

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<p>The firmware can be installed on both SL1 and SL1S SPEED, it will recognize the printer based on the print display and set the parameters accordingly. This firmware is required for the upgrade from SL1 to SL1S.</p>
<ul>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">New print display driver</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Support for diacritics in filenames</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Improved display counter</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">PrusaLink improvement</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Preprint checks</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Increased space for user prints</li>
<li style="font-weight: 400;" aria-level="1">Other improvements and bug fixes</li>
</ul>


1.6.1

<ul>
<li>Initial release reflecting the new features and changes in the Original Prusa SL1S SPEED</li>
</ul>


1.06

<p>This release is a small hotfix for the SL1 and SL1S:</p>
<ul>
<li>Factory reset fixed</li>
</ul>
<p>See full release log for more details.</p>


1.6.2

<p>This release includes two changes in the user interface and several bug fixes for the SL1 and SL1S:</p>
<ul>
<li>Preprint workflow changed</li>
<li>Print profile selection added to PrusaLink</li>
</ul>
<p>See full release log for more details.</p>


1.6.3

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>Added support for M1</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>


1.6.4

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul>
<li>Support for new rear fan</li>
<li>Support for new DAC converter</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

1.6.6

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

1.7.0

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0

<ul>
<li>Fixed bugs</li>
<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

1.7.1


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>Project thumbnail page while printing</li>



<li>Elephant foot and exposure times compensation fix</li>



<li>Help pages split between M1 and SL1/S</li>



<li>Red screen (error page) with a scrollable layout</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


1.7.2


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa SL1S SPEED

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