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<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero.&nbsp;</strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338"></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high.&nbsp;</strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w"></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400"></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet!&nbsp;</strong>For more information, please see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg"></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg"></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the&nbsp;<strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<h3>Welcome to PrusaSlicer documentation (PrusaSlicer manual)</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicer (formerly known as Slic3r Prusa Edition or Slic3r PE) is our own in-house developed slicer software based on the open-source project <a href="https://slic3r.org/"><strong>Slic3r</strong></a>. PrusaSlicer is an open-source, feature-rich, frequently updated tool that contains everything you need to export the perfect print files for (not only) your Original Prusa 3D printer.</p>
<p>PrusaSlicer is available for <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/download-prusaslicer_2220">Windows, Mac and Linux</a></p>
<h3>History</h3>
<p>The Slic3r project was born in 2011 within the RepRap community as an effort to provide the growing 3D printing technology under the leadership of&nbsp;<strong>Alessandro Ranellucci</strong> an open-source slicer. Slic3r spread among users quickly. When Josef Prusa was looking for a leading slicing software for Original Prusa printers the choice fell on Slic3r. It was (and still is) an open-source and very powerful software.&nbsp;</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-300x170.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-600x341.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-768x436.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-800x454.png 800w" alt="" width="421" height="239"><em>Jo and Alessandro in 2012 (<a href="https://youtu.be/Tuxg2L7r1oI">video interview</a>)</em></p>
<p>However, as Prusa Research was growing (very, very, very fast), we needed to be more flexible with the slicing software development. We needed to make changes to the software, and the changes had to be done asap. We also needed to add more features. At this point the co-operation with the detached original Slic3r team was unsustainable. The bottom line is that we decided to establish a fork of the original Slic3r project.</p>
<p>Slic3r Prusa Edition was released in November 2016 – <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition_4650/">read more about the launch here</a>. A dedicated team of full-time Slic3r PE developers was established and new functions were being added rapidly. These changes culminated in May 2019, when we released a new version with a major UI overhaul under a new name - <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/prusaslicer-2-release_30008/">PrusaSlicer 2.0</a>.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Why the name change? First of all, the old name was really confusing. Even in our own materials, we often didn’t include the “PE” suffix, and the community used Slic3r and Slic3r PE pretty much interchangeably. New users could mistakingly download Slic3r and wonder why it looks different from the screenshots in the 3D Printing Handbook and why it’s not configured for their Prusa printer. Speaking about the original Slic3r: with each update, Slic3r PE was moving further and further away from its original code. We’ve rewritten all of the Perl source code into C++ and especially with the 2.0 update, there were so many differences that it seemed appropriate to make the name more distinct.</p>
<p>Of course, it’s still open-source and you’ll find everything on our <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer">GitHub</a>. <strong>And we’re still proud that our slicer is based on the <a href="https://slic3r.org/">original project written by Alessandro Ranellucci</a>!</strong> Both projects now happily coexist and new features are frequently merged between one and another.</p>


General info

<p>This is by far the most common 3D printing problem, and probably the first one you may encounter. The first layer is the essential one because it is the base of the printed object. Therefore, if it isn’t perfect, the chance of print failure increases. Many common 3D printing problems stem from a poor first layer. There’s a couple of things that can go wrong when printing your first layer, so let’s take a look at what can be done to avoid these problems.</p>
<p>The print surface should be regularly maintained to achieve optimal printing quality and minimize the chance of failed prints. It's an easy procedure, so let's take a look at our tips and recommendations.</p>
<h3>How to prepare your print-surface</h3>
<p>If you don't touch the print surface <strong>with your hands or dirty tools,</strong> then you don't have to clean it before every print. <strong>Clean your tools the same way</strong> as you would the bed, and you will be able to start your next print right away.</p>
<h4>Isopropyl alcohol</h4>
<p>To achieve the best adhesion of the print surface, it is vital to keep it clean. <strong>The best option</strong> when printing with ABS, PLA, and many other materials is <strong>90% Isopropyl alcohol,</strong> which can usually be sourced locally at drugstores or hardware stores. <strong>Denatured alcohol is also an option.</strong> We recommend always using 90% IPA. Lower percentage solutions may contain unsuitable chemicals and oils.</p>
<p><strong>PETG, ABS, ASA, XT, and CPH filaments are an exception</strong> - the adhesion may be too strong, and you can damage your Smooth PEI sheet. We recommend using a separating agent (e.g. a glue stick). For more information on how to print with these materials, check out our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/material-guide_220">Material guides</a>.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Any cleaning agent (e.g. IPA) which is dermal/cosmetic, i.e. for skin or nails, may contain additives like moisturizers and oils which are not suitable.</div>
<h4>Dish soap and water</h4>
<p>If the adhesion seems to decrease over time even when using IPA, you can clean the steel sheet with a few drops of <strong>dish soap and warm water (not hot!)</strong>. This should not be done often, and <strong>do not submerge the sheet completely in hot water</strong>, but it will dissolve some oils and sugars that gather over time and that IPA does not remove. Make sure to use only dish soap and dry the sheet well before using it.</p>
<h4>Acetone</h4>
<p>PEI can lose its adhesive powers after a couple of hundred hours. When you see models coming loose regularly, wipe the surface thoroughly with <strong>acetone</strong> to restore the adhesion. <strong>This should only be used in the smooth PEI sheet and only around once per month.</strong> Do not overuse <strong>acetone.</strong> Extended use makes PEI surface brittle. Also, do not use <strong>acetone</strong> before printing with PETG.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">For the <strong>textured</strong> and the <strong>satin</strong> steel sheets, <strong>do not use acetone at all!</strong> Other chemical solvents, like Nail polish remover or brake-cleaner, can also contain acetone (acetates).</div>
<h4>Glue</h4>
<p>Glue is a great, easy-to-use tool to increase adhesion. It also creates a protective separation layer. No need for glue specially made for 3D printing. You can use a basic (PVA-based) glue stick. <strong>This is supplied with the printer.</strong> From our experience, it is not needed when printing PLA, but may it be advisable when printing:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/nylon_167188">Nylon</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/petg_2059">PETG</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812">Polycarbonate (PC)</a></li>
<li>PET-based materials</li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/abs_2058">ABS</a></li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/asa_1809">ASA</a></li>
<li>Other more exotic materials</li>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/flexible-materials_2057">Flexible materials</a></li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">You can easily wipe off PVA glue with <strong>dish soap and water</strong>.</div>
<div>Other types of glue should not be used as a substitute. <strong>Don't put Superglue on your sheet!</strong> When removing prints with a large surface area, you may have to assist the process using a spatula. Be gentle when flexing the sheet and removing the print as the smooth PEI foil can tear.</div>
<h4>ABS juice</h4>
<p><strong>'ABS juice' should only be used on the Smooth PEI sheet,</strong> when printing ABS prints. It is a mixture of Acetone and ABS pellets. ABS scraps, brims, or failed prints can be used too. Be very gentle when applying the juice and <strong>do so only when the bed is cold.</strong> Prints will adhere very strongly.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Ready-made juice can be <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/i3-accessories-mk3s-mk25s-etc/50-abs-juice-granule-only.html">purchased in our e-shop</a>. Unfortunately, most carriers do not allow shipping any acetone-based products via air transport due to shipping constraints.</div>
<div class="warning-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>For the textured and satin steel sheets, do not use ABS juice at all!</strong></div>
<h4>Resurface it</h4>
<p>It can happen that you will leave some small marks on the print surface with your nozzle or tools. Typically, they will be shinier than the rest of the pad. It does not affect functionality or adhesion. However, if you want to have the same surface look on the whole print bed, you can resurface it.</p>
<p>The easiest way is to take the hard side of a dry kitchen sponge and gently wipe the affected area in a circular motion a few times. Another option is to use fine-grit sandpaper (400-600) and lightly give the sheet a rub. Wipe over with IPA after doing so.</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet-300x206.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet-583x400.jpg 583w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet-768x527.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/steelsheet-800x549.jpg 800w" alt="steelsheet comparison"></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 50px; border-style: dotted; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 16px;">
<td style="width: 26.9115%; height: 16px; border-style: dotted;"><strong>Smooth PEI sheet</strong></td>
<td style="width: 38.2294%; height: 16px; border-style: dotted;">
<ul>
<li>Isopropyl alcohol 90%+ (IPA) - best degreaser</li>
<li>Warm water + few drops<br />
with dish soap (in case IPA doesn’t remove<br />
sugar residue on the sheet)</li>
<li>Acetone - once in a while to<br />
rejuvenate the sheet</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 34.834%; height: 16px; border-style: dotted;">
<ul>
<li>Use glue stick when printing FLEX, PETG, and other PET-based materials, as well as ABS and ASA.</li>
<li>IPA + PETG will cause the print to adhere very strongly to the sheet. Removing it could be extremely difficult</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 34px;">
<td style="width: 26.9115%; height: 34px; border-style: dotted;"><strong>Textured powder-coated</strong><br />
<strong>sheet</strong></td>
<td style="width: 38.2294%; height: 34px; border-style: dotted;">
<ul>
<li>Isopropyl alcohol 90%+ (IPA) - best degreaser</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 34.834%; height: 34px; border-style: dotted;">
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>Never use acetone!</strong></span></li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 26.9115%; border-style: dotted;"><strong>Satin powder-coated sheet</strong></td>
<td style="width: 38.2294%; border-style: dotted;">
<ul>
<li>Isopropyl alcohol 90%+ (IPA) - best degreaser</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td style="width: 34.834%; border-style: dotted;">
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>Never use acetone!</strong></span></li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">For more information on the different properties and guidelines of each flexible steel sheet, please see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheets (guidepost)</a>.</div>
<h3>The nozzle is too close/far from the sheet</h3>
<p>If the nozzle is too close to the printing bed, there won’t be enough room for the plastic to come out of the extruder. By having the nozzle too close to the print surface, you will essentially block its opening, so that no plastic can be extruded. You can easily recognize this issue when the printer does not extrude plastic for the first layer or two. Use Live Adjust Z function and <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> options to tweak the height of the nozzle. You perform the calibration from <em>LCD Menu –&gt; Calibration –&gt; First layer calibration</em>. <strong>For more information on this procedure, please see the dedicated article <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a>.</strong></p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="318"></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Avoid compensating for a lack of adhesion by setting a lower Live Adjust Z (squishing the first layer)</strong>. <strong>If lowered too much, the nozzle can damage the steel sheet and cause excessive vibrations.</strong> Any damage caused by incorrect Live Adjust Z value is not covered by the warranty.</div>
<h3>Speed and temperature</h3>
<h4>Decrease the printing speed</h4>
<p>If the steps described above didn’t help, then try decreasing the printing speed. The easiest way how to do it is by rotating the knob during the printing process, lowering the percentage. <strong>Counterclockwise = decrease speed</strong>, <strong>Clockwise = increase speed</strong>. We suggest decreasing the speed to about 75% for the first three layers, then returning it to normal.</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed-600x195.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed-300x97.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed-768x250.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Screenshot-lower-speed.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="195"></p>
<h4>Use recommended printing temperatures</h4>
<p>Make sure to use the recommended nozzle and heatbed temperatures. PrusaSlicer will configure them correctly based on the selected material, so you don’t need to adjust the temperatures manually on the printer itself. If you are experimenting with new materials that don’t adhere well, you can try to increase the heatbed temperature by 5-10 °C. This way the plastic will stick a bit better.</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat-600x190.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat-800x253.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat-300x95.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat-768x243.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Print-screen-LCD-preheat.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="190"></p>
<h3>A full or partial clog</h3>
<p><strong>The extruder could be clogged</strong>. This can happen either when excessive debris gets stuck inside the nozzle, when hot plastic is kept inside the extruder for too long, or when the thermal cooling for the extruder is not sufficient and the filament begins to soften outside of the desired melt zone. <strong>Please see our dedicated article <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">Clogged nozzle/hotend (MK3S, MK2.5S)</a>.</strong></p>
<h3>Uneven surface</h3>
<p>If your print surface is not flat and the alignment of the mesh does not help, to achieve a flat print surface, a temporary solution is to add a piece of paper under the uneven area of the steel sheet. <strong>A more permanent solution would be to perform the firmware <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</strong></p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/uneven-sheet-800x450.jpg 800w" alt="uneven sheet" width="600"></p>
<h4>Correctly placed sheet</h4>
<p>Before printing, make sure that you have the print plate properly installed, and that there are no leftovers from the previous print or a piece of loose filament that could affect the sheet position. Also, make sure that the sheet is straight and not bent or damaged.</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet-300x169.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/correctlyplacesheet-800x450.jpg 800w" alt="correctly placed sheet" width="600"></p>
<h3>Brim</h3>
<p>Before you consider applying extra adhesion materials onto the bed, consider using the <strong>Brim option</strong> in PrusaSlicer which increases the surface area of the first layer. <strong>See our dedicated article <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/skirt-and-brim_133969#brim">Skirt and Brim</a>.</strong></p>


First layer issues

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary.&nbsp;</p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247"></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only.&nbsp;</p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt=""><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The&nbsp;<strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0).&nbsp;</p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


Support material

<p>The Original Prusa i3 printers use the E3D V6 Hotend. They are compatible with E3D V6 1.75 mm nozzles. The stock nozzle that accompanies the printer is an E3D 0.4 mm brass nozzle, but other types and <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">diameters</a> can be used as well. <strong>The following procedure applies to all nozzles, except the Olsson Ruby.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>To replace the Olsson Ruby nozzle,</strong> follow the instructions on the <a href="https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/66-the-olsson-ruby-instructions-for-use">official 3DVERKSTAN website</a>. Otherwise, you could damage it!</div>
<h3>Tools necessary</h3>
<ul>
<li>2.5 mm Allen key (Included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>7 mm spanner/socket or pliers (7 mm spanner/socket not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>17 mm spanner (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>Small plate or aluminium foil (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
</ul>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Follow this procedure exactly!</strong> Omitting steps can cause leaking and extrusion issues outlined at the end of this article.</div>
<ol>
<li>Gain better access to the nozzle by moving the extruder (Z-axis) as high as possible: Go to <em>LCD Menu - Settings - Move Axis - Move Z.</em> Spin the <strong>Knob</strong> to adjust the height.</li>
<li>Unscrew the two screws on the print fan and the single screw securing the fan shroud. Remove both parts (picture below).</li>
</ol>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/1ead238c3914909d.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/1ead238c3914909d-596x400.jpg 596w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/1ead238c3914909d-800x537.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/1ead238c3914909d-300x202.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/1ead238c3914909d-768x516.jpg 768w" alt="extruder" width="600" height="403"></p>
<ol start="3">
<li>Preheat the nozzle to <strong>280 °C</strong> from <em>LCD Menu - Settings - Temperature - Nozzle</em>. Heating the nozzle is essential for this process.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">CAUTION: Heated parts can cause severe burns!</div>
<ol start="4">
<li>Unload the filament from the <em>LCD Menu - Unload filament</em>. Optionally, perform a <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075">Cold pull (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a>.</li>
<li>Hold the heater block with a 17 mm spanner (M10) or adjustable wrench.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Be extra careful around the <strong>fragile</strong> hotend heater and thermistor wires. You can break them off or <strong>short circuit the heater with your spanner!</strong></div>
<ol start="6">
<li>Unscrew the nozzle using the supplied pliers. If you are using the E3D nozzles from our online store, use a 7mm spanner (M4) or 7 mm socket. <strong>Be careful, the nozzle is still hot! Place it out of the way on your non-flammable surface.</strong></li>
<li>Make sure that the set temperature (280 °C) didn't change. Holding the heater block with your spanner, carefully screw the new nozzle in and tighten it gently, but firmly. <strong>Do not use excessive force!</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Our service- and assembly team use a torque wrench rated for 1 - 5 N m, and <strong>tighten the nozzle with a force of 2.5 N m</strong> (Newton Meter).</div>
<h3>Final inspection</h3>
<p><strong>There must always be a gap (~0.5 mm)</strong> between the nozzle and the heater block (left picture). The nozzle must be tightened/secured in the heater block, <strong>locked against the heat break,</strong> while heated (right picture). Failing to do so will cause leaks (center picture).</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>It is necessary to redo the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> after replacing the nozzle.</strong> If you installed a nozzle with a diameter other than 0.4 mm (0.25, 0.6, 0.8 mm), please see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">Different nozzle types</a>.</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 39.2947%;"><img style="float: left;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w" alt="" width="300" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 60.7053%;"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-300x136.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-600x272.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-768x348.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-800x363.png 800w" alt="" width="772" height="350"></td>
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<div class="tip-callout">You can find this procedure as <a href="https://youtu.be/txt6sxV6X88">a video on our YouTube channel</a>. Be aware that some steps may differ slightly from the procedure outlined here, and printed parts of the extruder may look a little different than yours.</div>


Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+)

Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1S) is a recommended accessory for the Original Prusa SL1S

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade

Upgrade platformy Original Prusa CW1 na CW1S

Original Prusa CW1 zu CW1S Plattform Upgrade

Mejora de la plataforma Original Prusa CW1 a CW1S

Mise à niveau de la plateforme de l'Original Prusa CW1 vers la CW1S

Aggiornamento piattaforma da Original Prusa CW1 a CW1S

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Aktualizacja platformy Original Prusa CW1 do CW1S

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

Sestavení stavebnice Original Prusa i3 MK3S+

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ Bausatz

Montaje del kit Original Prusa i3 MK3S+

Kit de l'Original Prusa i3 MK3S+

Montaggio kit Original Prusa i3 MK3S+

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ キットアセンブリ

Montaż zestawu Original Prusa i3 MK3S+

Original Prusa SL1 to SL1S SPEED upgrade

Upgrade tiskárny Original Prusa SL1 na SL1S SPEED

Original Prusa SL1 aus SL1S SPEED Upgrade

Mejora Original Prusa SL1 a SL1S SPEED

Mise à niveau de l'Original Prusa SL1 vers la SL1S SPEED

Aggiornamento da Original Prusa SL1 a SL1S SPEED

Růženka Upgrade Final [進行中の翻訳]

Aktualizacja Original Prusa SL1 do SL1S SPEED

Original Prusa MINI+ kit assembly

Sestavení stavebnice Original Prusa MINI+

Original Prusa MINI+ Kit Montage

Montaje Kit Original Prusa MINI+

Assemblage du kit Original Prusa MINI+

Assemblaggio kit Original Prusa MINI+

MINI+ kit assembly (draft) [進行中の翻訳]

Montaż zestawu Original Prusa MINI+

The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

Sestavená tiskárna Original Prusa MINI+

Original Prusa MINI+ halbmontiert

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-montada

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assemblée

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assemblata

Original Prusa MINI+ 半組立済み

Częściowo zmontowana Original Prusa MINI+

Original Prusa i3 to MMU2S upgrade

Upgrade z Original Prusa i3 na MMU2S

Original Prusa i3 auf MMU2S Upgrade

Actualización de Original Prusa i3 a MMU2S

Mise à niveau Original Prusa i3 vers MMU2S

Aggiornamento Original Prusa i3 ad MMU2S

Original Prusa i3 MK3S to MMU2S [進行中の翻訳]

Aktualizacja Original Prusa i3 do MMU2S

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S to MK3S+ upgrade

Upgrade z Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S na MK3S+

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S auf MK3S+ Upgrade

Actualización de Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S a MK3S+

Mise à niveau de l'Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S vers la MK3S+

Aggiornamento da Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S a MK3S+

Original Prusa i3 MK3 to MK3S+ upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Aktualizacja Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S do MK3S+

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer is based on the MSLA printing process. Unlike Original Prusa i3 machines, this printer uses a high-resolution LCD panel and a UV LED to cure thin layers of resin to achieve an unprecedented level of detail.

Original Prusa SL1 kit assembly

Sestavení stavebnice Original Prusa SL1

Original Prusa SL1 Bausatz

Montaje del kit Original Prusa SL1

Assemblage du kit Original Prusa SL1

Kit da assemblare Original Prusa SL1

Original Prusa SL1 kit assembly [進行中の翻訳]

Montaż zestawu Original Prusa SL1

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK3 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit assembly

Sestavení stavebnice Original Prusa i3 MK3S

Original Prusa i3 MK3S Bausatz

Montaje del kit Original Prusa i3 MK3S

Assemblage du kit Original Prusa i3 MK3S

Kit da assemblare Original Prusa i3 MK3S

Original Prusa i3 MK3Sキットアセンブリ

Montaż zestawu Original Prusa i3 MK3S

Original Prusa i3 MK1 to MK2 upgrade

Upgrade tiskárny z verze i3 MK1 na MK2

Original Prusa i3 MK1 auf MK2 Upgrade

Actualización de Original Prusa i3 MK1 a MK2

Mise à niveau Original Prusa i3 MK1 vers MK2

Aggiornamento da Original Prusa i3 MK1 a MK2

Original Prusa i3 MK1 to MK2 upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Aktualizacja Original Prusa i3 MK1 do MK2

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm to 1.75 mm upgrade

Upgrade z Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm na 1.75 mm

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm auf 1.75 mm Upgrade

Actualización de Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm a 1.75 mm

Mise à niveau Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm vers 1.75 mm

Aggiornamento da Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm a 1.75 mm

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm to 1.75 mm upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Aktualizacja Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm do 1.75 mm