i3 clone died

design for Support/Mesh needed

Can I Use Distance with Marlin 2.X or not?

CTC Prusa i3 Clone YOUTUBE video

big problem with an old Prusa I3 without lcd

Plus 1.75 mm

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical</strong> resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the XY plane, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">To get the best of both worlds, consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Maximum layer height for your nozzle</strong><br />The layer height should be <strong>below 80%</strong> of the <strong>nozzle diameter</strong> (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with very low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or as a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</div>
<p> </p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, with the exception of the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top part of each model is usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change you make, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well in order to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-300x74.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-600x147.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-768x188.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-800x196.png 800w" alt="" width="709" height="174" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see a little bit of sag of the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that when you’re printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</div>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't really do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">This option was removed in PrusaSlicer 2.6. The new algorithm is much smarter than the previous implementations and it is automatically applied where needed.</div>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, and that is having holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer makes sure it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space for it, an infill pattern is used to fill the void between these inside/outside perimeters. </p>
<p>Enabling <strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate just a single perimeter that works as both inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<p>This feature is automatically disables, if the <strong>Arachne perimeter generator</strong> is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historic reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look very good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances, but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em> Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan. </p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arranged into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<h3>Perimeter generator</h3>
<p>Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.</p>


Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

Infill patterns

<p dir="ltr">The main purpose of infill is to provide internal support for top layers, which would otherwise have to bridge over empty space. Infill also affects the speed of printing, structural strength, filament consumption, and even the look of the printed object.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3>Fill density</h3>
<p>Most models can be printed with 10-15% infill. If the top of the model closes gradually, it can be printed hollow (0% infill), though we generally do not recommend it. If you need the model to be heavier, want more compression resistance or higher stiffness, you can increase the infill. You'll rarely need infill higher than 30%. Finally, you can print the model with 100% infill and the infill pattern will be forced to rectilinear. Keep in mind that 100% infill can have a negative impact on the look of the printed object.</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />
The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of <strong>perimeters (not infill</strong>). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters. That said, infill does help with compression resistance.</div>
<h3>Fill pattern</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicer offers many infill patterns to choose from - check the dedicated <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130"><strong>Infill pattern documentation page</a></strong>.</p>
<h3>Length of the infill anchor</h3>
<p>The infill is usually <strong>connected to the perimeters</strong> with a so-called anchor, which is a <strong>short line</strong> of another (inner) perimeter that turns into an infill line. This makes the infill sturdier and is required by some materials (namely PETG) to stabilize the extrusion flow at the start of an infill line.</p>
<p>The length of the infill anchor value sets how many millimeters of this anchor will connect the infill and the perimeters. If you set this value to 0, the infill will be printed independently on the perimeters. Set a higher value to print the anchor that will continue as the infill itself.</p>
<p>If expressed as a percentage (15%) it will be calculated over the infill extrusion width.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-600x334.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-800x445.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-300x167.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-768x427.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-1536x854.jpeg 1536w" alt=""></p>
<h3>Maximum length of the infill anchor</h3>
<p>This value sets the maximum length of the infill anchor connecting the infill with perimeters.</p>
<p>Set this parameter to 0 to disable anchoring completely.</p>
<h3>Top fill pattern</h3>
<p>You can pick a custom infill pattern that only affects the top visible layer, not adjacent solid layers below.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Bottom fill pattern</h3>
<p>You can pick a custom infill pattern that only affects the bottom visible layer, not adjacent solid layers above.</p>
<h3>Combine infill every X layers</h3>
<p>Different layer heights will be used for infill and for perimeters in order to speed up the print without sacrificing the print quality.<br />
Example: Combine infill every 3 layers, layer height 0.1 mm, infill will be printed at 0.3 mm layer height.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The maximum layer height is limited by your nozzle diameter. If you try to combine infill every 1+ layers with 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.3 mm layer height, no change will actually happen because you cannot print layers bigger than (about) 0.32mm (80% of nozzle diameter).</div>
<div><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-300x169.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-600x337.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-768x432.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-800x450.png 800w" alt="" width="699" height="393"></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><em>Infill (grey) printed at double the layer height of perimeters (orange)</em></div>
<h3>Only infill where needed</h3>
<p>This option will make infill behave like an internal support structure, only areas that need support will generate an infill pattern below them. If enabled it slows down the G-code generation (due to extra overhang test involved). Furthermore, infill will likely become disconnected from the perimeters in some areas, so use this option with caution.</p>
<div class="note-callout">This option does not take the support <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/support-material_1698#overhang-threshold">overhang threshold</a> setting into account.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-300x195.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-600x391.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-768x500.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-800x521.png 800w" alt="" width="654" height="426"><em>Sphere with Infill only where needed is enabled</em></p>
<h3>Solid Infill every X layers</h3>
<p>This feature allows you to force a solid layer after every given number of layers. This can be useful to increase the strength of the printed part, however other options, such as increasing the number of perimeters or infill percentage are preferred. Another application would be to create separate internal cells in order to increase thermal insulation.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable.</strong></p>
<h3>Fill angle</h3>
<p>Default angle for infill orientation. Cross-hatching will be applied to some infill patterns.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Bridges</strong> will be printed using the best direction PrusaSlicer can detect, so this setting does not affect them.</div>
<h3>Solid infill threshold area</h3>
<p>Force solid infill for regions having a smaller area than the specified threshold.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable.</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-300x92.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-600x184.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-768x236.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-800x246.png 800w" alt=""><em>Solid infill threshold 0 (left), 15 (middle), 100 (right)</em></p>


Infill

<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero.&nbsp;</strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338"></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high.&nbsp;</strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w"></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400"></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet!&nbsp;</strong>For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg"></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg"></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the&nbsp;<strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1S) is a recommended accessory for the Original Prusa SL1S

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade

Original Prusa Enclosure assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK3.9 upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK4 upgrade

Original Prusa MK4 kit assembly

Original Prusa MMU3 Assembly

Original Prusa XL Single-head to Five-head upgrade

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Assembled)

Original Prusa SL1 to SL1S SPEED upgrade

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa MINI+ kit assembly

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Assembled)

The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa i3 to MMU2S upgrade

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Assembled)

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S to MK3S+ upgrade

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer is based on the MSLA printing process. Unlike Original Prusa i3 machines, this printer uses a high-resolution LCD panel and a UV LED to cure thin layers of resin to achieve an unprecedented level of detail.

Original Prusa SL1 kit assembly

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK3 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK1 to MK2 upgrade

Original Prusa XL - beta test

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm to 1.75 mm upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2/S to MMU1 upgrade

The Original Prusa MINI/MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S is a successor to Original Prusa i3 MK2 with small hardware tweaks for easier assembly and improved reliability.

Original Prusa i3 MK2S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S to MK3 upgrade

The Original Prusa i3 MK3 is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 MMU1 to MK2.5S MMU2S

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK2.5 to MMU2 v1.01

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 to MK2.5S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Slicing

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

Printer troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Printer simulator

Protective Shields

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Left toolbar

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

Multi-material slicing

SLA slicing

Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

Printables Clubs

Printables

Calibrate i3 Plus LCD/SD

Introduction

First print i3 Plus LCD/SD

<p>Plastic parts used on our 3D printers are printed by the same very machines, holding on to the original idea of the <a href="http://reprap.org/">RepRap project</a>. If you want to print replacement parts, upgrades, have your printer in a different color, or make your own modifications it is all available online.</p>
<h3>Downloading printable parts</h3>
<h4>Printables.com</h4>
<p>We have published STL files for every printable part of our printers, as well as printing instructions, to Printable's print depository. Here you can easily browse and view parts by their area of installation using the Printables folders feature.</p>
<p>Check out the <a href="http://www.printables.com/social/16-prusa-research/collections/54487">Printable parts collection on Printables</a> to find the parts you need.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-547x400.jpg 547w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-800x586.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-300x220.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-768x562.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="293"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-547x400.jpg 547w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-800x586.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-300x220.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-768x562.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="293"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Prusa3d.com</h4>
<p>You can find the latest printable parts for all of our 3D printers or printer upgrades at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Prusa i3 Printable parts</a>. Printable parts are divided into two groups:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Complete kits</strong> - which contain a full set of plastic parts for the entire 3D printer. &nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Upgrades</strong> - which contain only the parts for upgrading to the new version of the printer.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<p>Here you can download STL-files for absolutely all plastic parts and <strong>pre-sliced GCODES for all upgrades.</strong></p>
<h3>Settings</h3>
<p>If you decide to generate your G-codes, it is recommended to use:</p>
<ul>
<li>Material: <strong>PETG</strong></li>
<li><strong>0.2 mm layer height QUALITY preset</strong></li>
<li><strong>Infill: 20% GRID</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>The <strong style="color: #4b4c50;">'Fan-shroud'- part,</strong> which directs air from the print-fan to the part, <strong>should be printed in ASA or ABS</strong>, but otherwise with the same settings.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you have printed your own plastic parts, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/postprocessing-of-3d-prints-step-by-step/">check this article</a> for guidance on post-processing.</div>
<h3>Project files (STEP/SCAD)</h3>
<p>We do not provide the actual project-files for our printed parts. Too many different programs being used for that. However, if you are interested in modifying the parts we have made STEP files (in addition to STL files) available on our <a href="http://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">Github</a>, for all parts.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Project files (STEP/SCAD) are only available in the Github branch/tree where they were initially released.</div>
<p>Some parts were designed using OpenSCAD, where SCAD files are the project files you can edit. For that reason, <strong>for all parts designed with OpenSCAD, there are only SCAD files and no STEP-files available.</strong> This also includes metal parts.</p>
<ul>
<li>MK-series: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3</a></li>
<li>MINI: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-MINI/releases">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-MINI/releases</a></li>
<li>SL1: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-SL1">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-SL1</a></li>
</ul>
<p>For the MK-series you simply select the branch for the machine you are after and navigate to the file.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-300x187.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-600x375.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-768x480.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-800x500.png 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch.png" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>The naming of printable parts</h3>
<p>To know the origin of our printable parts, we are using naming which always starts with&nbsp;<strong>an alphabetical letter</strong>&nbsp;and is followed by a&nbsp;<strong>number</strong>:&nbsp;</p>
<ul style="list-style-type: disc;">
<li><strong>C# D#</strong> - MK3S/MK3S+ parts produced in our 3D printing farm, which are sent to our customers with Kits or pre-assembled printers.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>F#</strong> - MINI / MINI+ parts, farm printed.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>M#</strong> - MMU2S parts, farm printed.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>S#</strong> - SL1 / CW1 parts, farm printed.</li>
<li><strong>R#</strong> - Parts that can be found at <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/social/16-prusa-research/collections/54487">Prusa Research profile at PrusaPrinters</a>, <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Prusa3D site</a> or our <a href="http://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">Github</a>. These are the parts you can print yourself.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">
<p>Each letter of the alphabet is only used 9 times. For example, once we reached C9, the next revision was named D1.</p>
</div>


Printable parts for Original Prusa

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

<p>The Original Prusa i3 printers use the E3D V6 Hotend. Any nozzle that is compatible with the E3D V6 Hotend can be installed on it. The stock nozzle that accompanies the printer is an E3D V6 0.4 mm brass nozzle, but other types and <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">diameters</a> can be used as well. <strong>The following procedure applies to all nozzles, except the Olsson Ruby.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>To replace the Olsson Ruby nozzle,</strong> follow the instructions on the <a href="https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/66-the-olsson-ruby-instructions-for-use">official 3DVERKSTAN website</a>. Otherwise, you could damage it!</div>
<h3>Why change the nozzle?</h3>
<p>There might be two main reasons for replacing the nozzle:</p>
<ul>
<li>The nozzle is worn out and needs a replacement.</li>
<li>You want to print using a different nozzle type, and/or diameter.</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">Unless you print abrasive materials with a brass nozzle, the stock brass nozzle will last you many hundreds of printing hours. Changing a relatively new nozzle to resolve a clog is not the solution!</div>
<div>The stock 0.4mm Nozzle installed on the Original Prusa i3 printers <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nozzle-e3d-v6-0-4-mm/">can be found in the eshop</a>. We also offer <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nozzle-0-4/">an alternative 0.4mm nozzle</a> compatible with i3 and MINI/+ printers.</div>
<h3>Tools necessary</h3>
<ul>
<li>2.5 mm Allen key (Included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>7 mm spanner/socket or pliers (7 mm spanner/socket not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>17 mm spanner (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
<li>Small plate or aluminium foil (not included with assembled printers and kits)</li>
</ul>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<p>The following procedure assumes that a firmware version from 3.12.0 or above is installed. In case your printer has a previous firmware version, we recommend <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227">upgrading to the latest version</a>. If you did not flash a newer firmware version, follow the procedure, except for "Step 3 alternative" instead of step 3.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Follow this procedure exactly!</strong> Omitting steps can cause leaking and extrusion issues outlined at the end of this article.</div>
<ol start="1">
<li>Unload the filament, if it is loaded, from <em>LCD Menu - Unload Filament</em>. Optionally, perform a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075">Cold pull (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a>.</li>
<li>Navigate to <em>LCD Menu - Settings - HW Setup - Nozzle Change</em>.
<ol type="a">
<li>The printer will display a message with a link to this guide.</li>
<li><strong>Click the LCD encoder</strong>: the printer will auto-home, and subsequently move the Z axis to the topmost position, and the X axis to the center. In the meantime, the printer will automatically heat the nozzle to <strong>280 °C</strong>. Heating the nozzle is essential for this process.</li>
<li>Once the nozzle is at <strong>280 °C</strong>, the printer screen will display the following message: "<strong>Hotend at 280C! Nozzle changed and tightened to specs?</strong>". Do not click on the LCD encoder for now. </li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>Unscrew the two screws on the print fan and the single screw securing the fan shroud. Remove both parts (picture below).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/85adeda53781f1c8b8e5ad32a6c8d6c6.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+) review" alt="" width="600" height="403" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Step 2 alternative: if you could not follow step 3 due to firmware version up to 3.11.0 being installed, gain better access to the nozzle by moving the extruder (Z-axis) as high as possible: go to <em>LCD Menu - Settings - Move Axis - Move Z</em>. Spin the <strong>Knob</strong> to adjust the height. Once this is done, preheat the nozzle to <strong>280 °C</strong> from <em>LCD Menu - Settings - Temperature - Nozzle</em>. Heating the nozzle is essential for this process.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">CAUTION: Heated parts can cause severe burns!</div>
<ol start="4">
<li>Hold the heater block with a 17 mm spanner (M10) or adjustable wrench.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Be extra careful around the <strong>fragile</strong> hotend heater and thermistor wires. You can break them off or <strong>short-circuit the heater with your spanner!</strong></div>
<ol start="5">
<li>Unscrew the nozzle using the supplied pliers. If you are using the E3D nozzles from our online store, use a 7mm spanner (M4) or 7 mm socket. <strong>Be careful, the nozzle is still hot! Place it out of the way on your non-flammable surface.</strong></li>
<li>Make sure that the printer is still on the screen described in step 3c, and that the set temperature (280 °C) didn't change. Holding the heater block with your spanner, carefully screw the new nozzle in and tighten it gently, but firmly. <strong>Do not use excessive force!</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Our service and assembly teams use a torque wrench rated for 1 - 5 N m and <strong>tighten the nozzle with a force of 2.5 N m</strong> (Newton Meter).</div>
<h3>Final inspection</h3>
<p><strong>There must always be a gap (~0.5 mm)</strong> between the nozzle and the heater block (left picture). The nozzle must be tightened/secured in the heater block, and <strong>locked against the heat break</strong> while heated (right picture). Failing to do so will cause leaks (center picture).</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>It is necessary to redo the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> after replacing the nozzle.</strong> If you installed a nozzle with a diameter other than 0.4 mm (0.25, 0.6, 0.8 mm), please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">Different nozzle types</a>.</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 39.2947%;"><img decoding="async" style="float: left;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ljZASfpEuJDMIZZo_8643_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w" alt="" width="300" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 60.7053%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-300x136.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-600x272.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-768x348.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/526a59ae1e9dcd1b_painted-800x363.png 800w" alt="" width="772" height="350" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="tip-callout">You can find this procedure as <a href="https://youtu.be/txt6sxV6X88">a video on our YouTube channel</a>. Be aware that some steps may differ slightly from the procedure outlined here, and printed parts of the extruder may look a little different than yours.</div>


Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+)

<p>It is recommended to regularly take some time to maintain your printer. This should be done even if the printer is working perfectly. <strong>The inspection and maintenance of its various components should be done every couple of hundred hours of print-time.</strong> This guide is valid for all the Original Prusa i3 printers, i.e. MK3S+, MK3s, MK3, MK2.5S, MK2.5, MK2S, and Plus 1.75 mm.<strong><br /></strong></p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can check the number of printing hours from your printer in the <em>LCD menu - Statistics</em>.</div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc-562x400.jpg 562w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc-800x570.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc-300x214.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/fullwithdesc-768x547.jpg 768w" alt="" width="703" height="500" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Useful tools:</h3>
<p><strong>Besides the usual tools, such as Allen keys, needle-nose pliers, and IPA + paper towels, you might need:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Lubricant:</strong> the best option is the Prusa lubricant. One is sent with the printer, but it can also be found in our <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/">e-shop</a>. Other recommended lubricants are Super Lube 210XX, GLEIT-µ HF 400, and Mogul LV 2-EP. We do not recommend lubricants with a very high viscosity.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not apply lubricant on the trapezoid nuts or the threaded lead screws of the Z-axis!</strong></div>
<ul>
<li><strong>Compressed air:</strong> also known as canned air. Be sure to not hold it upside down while spraying - otherwise, you could damage any electronic components while trying to clean them.</li>
<li><strong>Brush:</strong> a small brass brush is an ideal tool for cleaning the Bondtech filament pulleys. If you don't have a brass brush any brush with hard bristles will do the job. Alternative: You can use the acupuncture needle that comes with the printer or a toothpick.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Axes check</h3>
<p><strong>What to check on your printer:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Smooth rods:</strong> scratches/grooves - take each rod between two/three fingers and move them slowly from one end of the rod to another, while rotating the fingers around the rod. If you notice any scratch, verify it with your fingernail. </span></li>
<li><strong>Bearings:</strong> Clean and lubricate the bearings and rods as shown <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">this guide</a>. Despite cleaning and lubricating the smooth rods, it can happen that the axes' movement is still not smooth. In this case, please remove the bearings from the printer and lubricate them from the inside with a pea-sized amount of lubricant.</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">Screws on the back of the extruder (X-carriage-back) or the U-bolts, should NOT be overtightened, as this might deform the bearings and cause scratches on the smooth rods.</div>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Belt pulleys:</strong> any debris around the belt pulleys and belts should be immediately removed to ensure smooth operations. Also, check if the set screw of the belt pulley is firmly secured on the flat side of the motor shaft.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Idler screw</strong> (M3x40 with the spring on it) is not overtightened or too loose. Generally, the head of the screw, on the left side, should be about flush with the printed parts of the extruder. Details on the ideal tension of the idler screw can be found in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">Idler screw tension</a>.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Y- and X-axis belts:</strong> Both of the belts should be tight enough to sound like a low bass note when plucked. On the MK3/S/+, the belt status can be checked in the <em>LCD menu - Support - Belt status</em>. Recommended values are between 260 and 290. For details on adjusting the belt tension <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk3-mk3s-mk3s-mk4_112380">please see this article</a>.</span></li>
</ul>
<h3>Flexible steel sheet</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">Acetone should be used sparingly for cleaning, and only be used on the Smooth steel sheet! <strong>Never use acetone on the Textured or Satin steel sheet</strong> as the surface will be permanently damaged.</div>
<div>All flexible steel sheets should be cleaned regularly to ensure adhesion, but the exact methods and washing solutions can differ depending on your type of sheet.</div>
<p>You can find more information on how to take care of your flexible steel sheet <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">in this article</a>.</p>
<h3>Fans</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ can spot if any of the fans stop spinning. However, that does not mean you should not check them during maintenance. Dust or plastic build-up can decrease their efficiency or even damage them.</p>
<p>A cotton swab can also be used to clean off dust and debris from the propeller or canned air will clear the dust. Tweezers can be used to take out any plastic strands. <strong>Hold the propeller</strong> <strong>of the fan to prevent it from spinning while cleaning it with canned air</strong>. Otherwise, it can get damaged. Clear away any debris that may be stuck and check that it can rotate freely. </p>
<h3>Extruder driver gear</h3>
<p>The MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+ printers are equipped with two Bondtech gears, made of hardened carbon steel. One is the <strong>pulley gear,</strong> secured on the extruder's motor shaft by a set screw. The other is the <strong>idler gear</strong>, which spins freely mounted on the idler door. <strong>If you have had a clog, they can also have collected residue grinding the filament</strong> which will, in turn, reduce their grabbing force on the filament. </p>
<p><strong>Regular cleaning and lubrication will:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Reduce wear and noise.</li>
<li>Increase the grabbing force on the filament.</li>
<li>Lower friction between the two pulley gears.</li>
<li>Protect against rust. </li>
</ul>
<p>If you're cleaning the gear inside the extruder without removing the extruder motor first, be sure to cover the PTFE tube to avoid any debris falling in. You can use a cotton swab - it will reliably cover the tube without damaging it). After you're done cleaning, give it a good puff of air to clear any remains, while the PTFE tube is still covered.</p>
<p>Open the Extruder idler door by releasing the screw(s) on the left side of your extruder.</p>
<ul>
<li>The <strong>MK3, and MK2.5</strong> extruders have <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">two idler screws</a>.</li>
<li>The <strong>MK3S/+ and MK2.5S</strong> extruders have <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367">one idler screw</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>Both hobbed gears can have a build-up of filament shavings stuck in the grooves. Using a brass brush, clean what you can, then rotate the gear a few degrees and repeat until you do a full turn. They can also be cleaned one at a time using the acupuncture needle that comes with the printer.</p>
<p>The gears can be covered by rust. There is no need to worry. The gears themselves should not be damaged. Remove any problematic bits of filament and clean them with a brush. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bontechgear.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="Bondtech gears on an MK3" alt="bontech gears" width="498" height="350" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Make sure the Bondtech pulley gear is aligned with the path of the filament and secured on the flat side of the motor shaft. Also, check that the shaft of the idler gear goes through both "ears" of the Extruder-Idler-door plastic part and spins freely. You can find a more detailed guide in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176">Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-300x290.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-413x400.jpg 413w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-768x743.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bondtechallign-620x600.jpg 620w" alt="" width="413" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Apply a tiny amount of the grease only to the teeth protruding outwards from the gear. <strong>Make sure that the lubricant never gets in contact with the filament teeth.</strong> Do not use oil-based lubricant as it may spread to unwanted sections, like where the filament is fed into the hotend.</p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/iddlegear.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/iddlegear-300x134.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/iddlegear-600x267.jpg 600w" alt="idlegear" width="618" height="275" loading="lazy" /></span></p>
<h3>Electronics</h3>
<p><strong>On the MK2/S and MK2.5/S</strong> - Check and reconnect the electrical connectors on the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/mini-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk2s-mk2-5-mk2-5s_2109">miniRAMBo board</a> <strong>after the first 50 hours of printing and then every 150-200 hours.</strong></p>
<p><strong>On the MK3/S/+</strong> - Check and reconnect the electrical connectors on the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/einsy-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2107">EinsyRAMBo board</a> <strong>every 600 - 800 hours of printing.</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before touching the electrical connections, please make sure that the printer is off, and unplugged from the main power source.</div>
<ul>
<li>Check if there are any pinched or worn cables on the printer.</li>
<li>Open the electronics casing and blow compressed air in between the cables to get rid of dust.</li>
<li>Check the connection of all of the wires on the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/mini-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk2s-mk2-5-mk2-5s_2109">mini RAMBo board</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/einsy-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2107">EINSY RAMBo board</a>. Especially pay attention to the cables from the PSU (power source) and heaters. Make sure they are inserted all the way in and well-tightened.</li>
<li><span style="color: #000000;">Users of the <strong>Original Prusa i3 MK2/S </strong>and <strong>MK2.5/S</strong> need to pay special attention to the printer's power-input and heatbed's power connectors. Make sure both the connector and socket are not damaged in any way.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000;">Users of the <strong>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+</strong> should lightly tug the power and heatbed connectors. If any movement is felt, then re-tighten the screws.</span></li>
</ul>
<h3>Nozzle change</h3>
<p>Putting an exact number on how long a nozzle will last is very difficult, as it depends on how much you print, what types of filament you use, and how often you change between filament types. <strong>It is not the first thing you should look to if you are experiencing extrusion issues</strong>, but if the printer has been in use for more than 3-6 months and you are getting poor print quality, even after doing the mentioned maintenance, you may want to consider <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5s-mk3s-mk3s_2069">replacing the nozzle</a>.</p>
<h3>Firmware and software</h3>
<p>You should always be using the latest <strong>stable</strong> firmware version that we have published for your specific printer model. You can check the firmware version you have in the <em>LCD menu - Support</em>.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227"> See this article</a> to flash the fimware on your <strong>MK3/S/+</strong>.</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mk2-5s-mk2s_155126">See this article</a> to flash the firmware of your <strong>MK2/S or MK2.5/S</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>We also recommend using the latest version of our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">PrusaSlicer</a>, as it enables you to <strong>enjoy all the features of your printer</strong>. It even saves information about the printer model, nozzle diameter, and firmware version directly into the g-code file so that the printer can warn you if anything is out of date or incompatible.</p>


i3 Printer Regular Maintenance

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-asa-jet-black-850g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ASA</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong>, due to its high UV light and temperature resistance. Unlike other materials soluble in more dangerous chemicals, <strong>ASA can be dissolved in acetone.</strong> The main disadvantage of this material is significant warping, which requires printing at higher ambient temperatures.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 260 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 105 °C for the first layer, 110 °C for the other layers.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-asa/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">ASA</strong></a> (Acrylic Styrene Acrylonitrile) is a technical material that is considered a <strong>successor to ABS</strong>. Compared to ABS, <strong>ASA is more UV resistant, warps less, and doesn’t smell as much.</strong> ASA is a tough and resilient material that is, thanks to its UV and temperature resistance (up to 93 °C), <strong>suitable for outdoor use</strong> and for making technical parts. See for example our <strong>MK3S printer</strong> <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/"><strong>fan shroud.</strong></a> Another great advantage of ASA is its <strong>solubility in acetone vapors</strong>, which can be used to make a smooth and glossy finish. This gives the model not only great looks but also different mechanical properties (see our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>).</p>
<p>The main disadvantage of ASA is <strong>significant warping</strong> caused by temperature differences between the model and its surroundings. Another disadvantage is that ASA releases potentially dangerous fumes during printing - this means you should keep your printer in a well-ventilated area. ASA can be easily sanded both wet and dry.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ASA printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>You can find more details about how to print with ASA in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/asa-prusament-is-here-learn-everything-about-the-successor-to-abs/">our in-depth article</a>.</p>
<p>And to compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High UV resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ An enclosure is necessary for printing large parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Detailed prints with no stringing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Prints at high temperatures</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Easy postprocessing (e.g. sanding, cutting, etc.)</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Partially hygroscopic (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High impact and wear resistance</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p><strong>ASA</strong> is suitable for outdoor use and for making technical parts.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated to at least <strong>100 °C</strong>, and the printer should be inside an enclosure to keep a higher ambient temperature. If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/"><strong>PrusaSlicer</a></strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will create a wall around the object and keep the model slightly warmer, mitigating the warping. Keep in mind that printing a lot of ASA in an unventilated enclosure can cause the fan shroud and/or extruder plastic parts to deform over time. This may impact performance or cause issues.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p>
</div>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p><strong>ASA sticks very well to our print sheets</strong> (smooth and powder coated) but other print surfaces, like glass, might require a layer of acetone with dissolved ASA (or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a>). If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118"><strong>HIPS</strong></a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ASA and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not put acetone or ABS/ASA juice on the powder-coated sheet!</div>
<h3><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></h3>
<p>ASA is a pretty good material for postprocessing. Not only you can <strong>sand it wet and dry</strong> but you can also <strong>glue/weld it with acetone</strong> and <strong>smooth it with acetone vapors.</strong> Smoothed models have a glossy surface that looks like it’s treated with car lacquer or was injection molded. However, printed objects usually tend to lose detail and sharp edges with smoothing. You can find out more about chemical smoothing in <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 572px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-302x400.jpg 302w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-452x600.jpg 452w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-226x300.jpg 226w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/holder-v-orange-772x1024-1-768x1019.jpg 768w" alt="" width="772" height="1024"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533187-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Mechanical parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed prints</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533094-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 236px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-800x451.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/P1533194-1024x577-1-768x433.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1024" height="577"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Fan shroud (high-temperature resistant parts)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Outdoor (UV resistant) parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-800x451.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-768x433.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-2048x1154.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="400" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>Flexible materials</strong> are characterized by their <strong>excellent flexibility, tenacity, and chemical resistance</strong>. These materials are relatively uncommon, expensive, and suitable mostly for advanced users due to high print difficulty.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 <strong>°</strong>C - 245 <strong>°</strong>C (Depending on hardness and brand).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C - 75 °C (Depending on the size of the object, bigger objects tend to need higher bed temperature).</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/flex/">Flexible filaments</a> are <strong>chemically and mechanically resistant</strong> materials. Individual layers hold strongly together and there is a great print surface adhesion (applies only for TPU and TPEE). Due to these qualities, it is necessary to print on a powder-coated sheet or use a special separator on the print surface (glue stick or Kapton tape). Flexible filaments are <strong>TPE</strong> (thermoplastic elastomer) material, however, they are distributed under various names, such as <strong>TPU, TPEE,</strong> etc. For example, TPU is basically a subtype of TPE material and the main difference between TPU and TPE is its <strong>shore hardness</strong>. TPU is usually around 60A-90A on the shore hardness scale. Generally speaking, <strong>the softer the filament is, the harder it is to print.</strong></p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 296.533px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 278.133px;">
<td style="width: 98.794%; height: 278.133px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-600x209.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-800x279.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-300x105.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness-768x268.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/shore-hardness.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="800" height="279"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 98.794%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;"><em>Shore hardness scale, source: smooth-on.com</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Flexible filaments are usually very <strong>resistant to wear</strong> (scratching), <strong>stay flexible</strong> even in cold environments, and show <strong>great resistance against various solvents</strong>. Dimensions are stable, there is <strong>little to no shrinking or warping</strong>. Their <strong>tenacity and tensile strength are excellent:</strong> 3D-printed parts can withstand great stress before breaking. These properties make it suitable for printing spacing washers and other high-stress parts. With proper print settings, you could print stamps, RC tires, shoe soles, belts, etc.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Some very soft flex materials can bond to the bed too much and require the use of glue stick on the bed as a separator to prevent PEI damage. A good alternative is the <strong>Textured Spring-steel sheet</strong>.</div>
<p>Printing with flexible filaments is recommended <strong>only for experienced makers</strong>, considering various challenges during printing. We’re talking about frequent nozzle clogging, poor bridging and overhang characteristics, filament tangling into extruder gears, stringing, and oozing.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Flexibility &amp; tenacity</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ High print difficulty</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Dimensional stability (low shrinkage)</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Low printing speed</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Very bad bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High mechanical and chemical resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Difficult support removal</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">&nbsp;</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">&nbsp;</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Hygroscopic material (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of flexible filament is for printing <strong>spacing washers</strong> and other high-stress parts. With proper print settings, you could print <strong>stamps, RC tires, shoe soles, belts, etc.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>Important rules for successful printing with flexible filaments</strong></h3>
<ol>
<li><strong>Make sure the nozzle is unobstructed.</strong> If you’re not sure, do a cold pull to clean it completely. &nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Loosen the idler</strong> so the gears push the filament through only very gently. If they press too hard, the filament might get entangled in the gears.</li>
<li><strong>If you print on a smooth or satin sheet, apply a separation layer on it</strong> (glue stick or Kapton tape should work). The powder-coated TXT sheet does not need any separation layer - the print will stick just fine and can be easily removed without damaging the surface.</li>
<li><strong>Print slowly.</strong> The slower, the better. A typical speed for flexible filaments is usually 20 mm/s, the maximal recommended speed is somewhere between 30 and 40 mm/s. With higher speeds, you risk clogging the nozzle or tangling filament into the gears. For Original Prusa printers, we recommend using the “Semiflex or Flexfill 98A” or “Filatech FilaFlex40” profiles that have proper speed settings.</li>
<li><strong>Increase the nozzle temperature by 5 °C</strong>, this will lower filament resistance. Keep print cooling turned off.</li>
<li><strong>Keep the filament dry.</strong> Flexible filaments tend to absorb moisture and can be hard to print when wet.</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Flexibility and slicer settings</strong></p>
<p>Do you need <strong>better mechanical resistance?</strong> Set more infill and perimeters in PrusaSlicer. But if you need to <strong>retain the material flexibility</strong>, try to lower the number of perimeters and top/bottom layers. However, keep in mind that flexible filaments are not good at bridging and overhangs. A combination of thin layers and poor bridging can lead to ugly holes and protrusions.</p>
<p><strong>Retractions</strong></p>
<p>If you use a different program than <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/"><strong>PrusaSlicer</strong></a><strong>,</strong> try to adjust retractions a little bit. With lower retractions, there is a lower risk of clogging the nozzle or filament tangling. It’s alright to <strong>turn the retractions off</strong> completely and then try to raise them and watch the results.&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Printing supports</strong></p>
<p>Supports may need more space in Z-axis. Try to <strong>increase it to 0,3 mm</strong>. Supports that are closer to your model might stick to it too strongly and might be difficult to remove. Increase 'XY separation between an object and its support to at least 100%.</p>
<p><strong>Filament sensor</strong></p>
<p>Remember that automatic filament change might not work properly with flexible filaments.</p>
<p>Do you want to know more about printing with flexible filaments? Check <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-print-with-flexible-filament_29672/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">our blog article</strong></a>.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 636px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-800x451.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-768x433.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/3f94064c7146080b-2048x1154.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1419"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Flex.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Flex-300x300.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Flex-400x400.png 400w" alt="" width="420" height="420"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Stamps, hoses, and tires</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Example of filament flexibility</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/029046b36ce8993c-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/daed7deea109f664-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>RC tires</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>GoPro and phone protection sleeve</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Flexible materials

<p>The materials used for FFF 3D printing are mostly hygroscopic. This means that they readily attract water molecules from the environment they are in. When used for printing, a material that has gathered humidity might not behave as expected.</p>
<h3>Prevention</h3>
<p>Some filaments are more hygroscopic than others. When using a new material, make sure to research its properties and the best way to store it. It is best to avoid having to dry the filament if possible.</p>
<p>It is best to store your filaments in a closed space or box, with some desiccant material in it. If you have limited availability for this type of storage, prioritize storing filaments that are more hygroscopic. PLA, for example, doesn't change properties too much by uptaking humidity, whereas Polyamide is affected quite significantly.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">To prevent any issues with the highly hygroscopic materials (polyamid, polypropylen, PVA, BVOH, ...) it is recommended to either ensure they were stored in a dry environment or dry them before every print.</div>
<p>You can purchase a box with the specific purpose of keeping the filament dry, or <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/dryboxes-and-alternative-spool-holders-not-only-for-multimaterial-upgrade_30525/">make your own</a>.</p>
<p>Another popular solution to keep your filament dry is using vacuum bags for storage. There are bags specific for filaments, but you can use any that will fit a filament inside. Keep a desiccant in the bag when storing the filament.</p>
<h3>How to recognize if the filament has gathered humidity</h3>
<p>In case a material is affected by humidity, the general first signal will be a poor quality of the model surface.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some filaments are naturally more stringy than others. Make sure to compare different results from your prints, and check our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/stringing-and-oozing_1805">Stringing and oozing</a> guide.</div>
<p>In some cases, the high content of water in filament can cause low layer adhesion, blobs on the prints, and bubbling and smoke during extrusion.</p>
<p>Polyamide, PVA, and TPU (Flex) are filaments more commonly in need of drying than more popular filaments like PLA.</p>
<h3>Prusament black spool</h3>
<p>The black plastic sides of Prusament spools are firmly pressed into the cardboard cylinder. The plastic sides expand with rising temperature and cause the expansion of the cardboard center as well. When the temperature decreases plastic shrinks back to its original shape but the cardboard stays expanded which causes loosen spool. <strong>The spools can be heated up safely up to 45 ºC without this happening.</strong></p>
<p>Alternatively, it is possible to add a screw holding the two sides of the plastic together. The screw needs to have a thread of at least 65 mm. In the pictures, we use an M4x65 screw, tightened by a 3.5mm Allen key.</p>
<p>After heating up the spool to above 45 ºC, the screw will need to be in the spool until the end of its use, or else the spool will fall apart.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-2.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-800x534.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-4.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-8.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Prusament_spool_drying_-9.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Prusament Grey spool</h3>
<p>The Prusament spools with grey plastic sides are also pressed to the cardboard center, but they are also glued. <strong>The glue added can withstand up to 90 ºC</strong>. So there is no need to add the screw to dry this spool if this temperature is not exceeded.</p>
<p>The PA11CF filament uses the grey Prusament spools. It is recommended to keep this filament in a dry box between each use, even if the filament will be used soon. In case that is not possible, dry the filament before each use.</p>
<h3>Drying methods</h3>
<h4>Temperatures</h4>
<p>Once we are sure that the spool will not fall apart, the following temperatures and times are recommended for the Prusament materials. It is important not to exceed these temperatures while drying the filament, or the filament will soften and stick together.</p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 128.8px;">
<thead>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Material</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Temperature</th>
<th style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">Time</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PLA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PVB</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">45 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">8 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PETG</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">55 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">ASA</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">80 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">85 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">5 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">PCCF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">95 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; height: 18.4px; text-align: center;">4 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">PA11CF</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">90 ºC</td>
<td style="width: 32.1943%; text-align: center;">6 hours</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Filament dryer</h4>
<p>There are specialized boxes that will not only keep filaments dry but also actively remove the moisture from filaments. Usually, you are also able to keep the filament in the box while printing.</p>
<p>Make sure to check the specifications of the box you intend to use to make sure that it matches the drying temperature of your filament.</p>
<h4>Oven</h4>
<p>Since most people have an oven at home, this seems the easiest way to dry filament. However, some things need to be noted for filament drying in a conventional oven.</p>
<p>Home ovens don't have a very precise temperature measurement. The fluctuations that do not affect your food might damage your filament, especially low-temperature ones like PLA. If using an oven, make sure to have an external thermometer to correct the temperature if necessary.</p>
<p>Another issue is that a lot of home ovens cannot be set at a temperature low enough to dry the filaments without damaging them. Even if left for less time than recommended, high temperatures will damage the filament.</p>
<h4>Food dehydrator</h4>
<p>A different method of drying is adapting a food dehydrator to fit a filament spool inside. The adaptation is usually achieved by taking off the trays between the layers and placing the filaments inside. These dehydrators usually have only low temperatures, so check the drying temperature of your filament before purchasing one.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">After drying, make sure to store the filament properly.</div>


Drying filament

<p>In case there is a clog in your hotend, the filament might grind against the Bondtech-gears and be damaged enough so it can't be unloaded. It might snap right above the PTFE-tube when you try to pull it out by hand. In this case, the filament will need to be removed manually.</p>
<h3>Idler door open</h3>
<p>Open the idler door by removing the spring-loaded tension-screw(s), on the left side of the extruder.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 348px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 331px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/4aheOXhkPQx2kAAu-800x600.jpg 800w" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 331px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MK3-534x400.jpg 534w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3S/MK3S+/MMU2S extruder (single idler screw)</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>MK3 extruder (two idler screws)</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div> </div>
<h4>MMU2S idler door</h4>
<div>On the MMU2S, due to the "chimney" (IR-sensor-holder-mmu2s), you must remove the whole idler door by unscrewing the hinge- screw (red arrow) on the back. </div>
<div> </div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/idlermmu2s-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="401" height="301" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Where did it break?</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 311px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 294px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0300-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 294px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0271-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="399" height="299" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 17px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 17px; text-align: center;"><strong>Use Method 1</strong></td>
<td style="width: 50%; text-align: center; height: 17px;"><strong>Use Method 2</strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>If the filament snapped right at the edge of the PTFE you should start with Method number 1, where you try to push the filament through the hotend. If there is 0.5-1cm sticking out of the filament, reaching the Bondtech filament-pulley starts with Method number 2, pulling it out with pliers.</p>
<h3>Setup</h3>
<ol>
<li>Go to the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em> and set the temperature to 280º C. Wait for 3-5 minutes with the hotend at this temperature.</li>
<li>In the LCD menu in <em>Settings,</em> select <em>Disable steppers</em>.</li>
<li>Go to the  <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; F. Autoload,</em> so A<em>utoload</em> will not interfere.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">From now on the hotend will be hot! Avoid touching the lower part of the extruder (heaterblock + nozzle)!</div>
<h3>Method 1: Pushing the filament through the hotend</h3>
<p>Using another piece of filament, a thin (1-1,5 mm) Allen-wrench or same diameter wire, at least 4.5 cm long for the MK3(s) and 6 cm long for the MMU2s, you are often able to simply push it through.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0270scales-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="574" height="431" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<ol>
<li>Feed in from the top of the extruder your tool of choice, down past the Bondtech-gear, and on top of the stuck filament.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you are able to push the stuck filament down the PTFE-tube with an Allen-wrench, switch to using filament after about 1-2 cm. Some Allen-wrenches may only be long enough to get it started.</div>
<ol start="2">
<li>In case the filament starts being extruded from the bottom, Keep pushing the filament to clear the nozzle and see the color change.</li>
</ol>
<h3>Method 2: Pull out filament with pliers</h3>
<p>While hotend is heated to 280° C, firmly grab the filament with the needle-nose pliers that came with the printer. Slowly drag/feed the filament upwards, bit by bit, through the top of the extruder body, until it is completely removed from the PTFE-tube.</p>
<p>The filament can get stuck on geometry on the path up through where it is fed. It is also possible to pull it out of the idler door.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0275-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="627" height="470" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="tip-callout">After removing the filament, do a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075">Cold pull (MK3S/MK2.5S)</a> to ensure you have fully cleared the clog.</div>
<h3>Nope, it is still stuck</h3>
<p>If none of these methods work, it means that the tip is not touching the part of the hotend that is heated and is stuck in the PTFE-tube. In this case, you must extract the PTFE-tube. Follow the guide linked below to resolve it.</p>
<div class="note-callout">You will probably need to heat the hotend to extract the PTFE-tube with the stuck filament.</div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3-mk2-5_17360">How to replace a PTFE tube (MK3/MK2.5)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)</a></li>
</ul>


Removing filament from extruder manually

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div><strong>PLA</strong> is one of the <strong>easiest materials to print.</strong> It is inexpensive and suitable (not only) for beginners. It’s usually used for printing detailed models, figures, and quick prototypes that don’t require high mechanical, chemical, or temperature resistance.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215 °C for the first layer, 210 °C for other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 60 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PLA</strong></a> (Polylactic acid) is a plant-based polyester. <strong>PLA does not require a heated bed</strong>, can be printed fast and with low temperatures (melting point is somewhere around 175 °C). With PLA you can print both small, detailed models and large objects filling almost the entire print volume. Unlike some other filaments, <strong>PLA is not prone to significant warping</strong>. It is good for quick prototyping and creation of nice, low-cost models: concepts, prototypes, simple toys, jewelry, statues, etc. It is not suitable for technical and outdoor use. It doesn’t resist high temperatures (it gets soft and deform at temperatures over 60 °C), degrades under UV light and its mechanical resistance is also inferior - it breaks by the layers or into shards upon impact. Layer adhesion is weaker compared to other materials. Sanding PLA is possible with sandpaper but needs water cooling (wet sanding).</p>
<p>Various sources claim that <strong>PLA is biologically degradable</strong>. The material is made from corn, sugar cane, or sugar beet and indeed can be decomposed, but only in specialized composting facilities where temperatures exceed 80 °C. It is definitely <strong>not a good idea</strong> to throw the <strong>PLA</strong> waste into your garden compost - the material will not disintegrate, plus you will contaminate the soil with plastic microparticles.</p>
<p>Although the <strong>PLA</strong> material itself is <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament material) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layers/grooves that can support bacterial growth. If you still want 3D printed dishes or food containers, we suggest applying a <strong>special layer that seals the surface</strong> (food-safe coating) and printing with a stainless steel nozzle.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low price</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Brittle and inflexible</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print, suitable for beginners</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Low UV and temperature resistance</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good detail and low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Difficult post-processing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Suitable for large models</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PLA is for printing concept models, prototypes, or low-wear toys.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Consider using a smooth PEI sheet</strong></p>
<p>If you print with PLA on our Original Prusa i3 printers, <strong>you can print on either a smooth, powder-coated TXT or powder-coated satin sheet.</strong> However, the smooth sheet works better for printing parts that have a small contact area with the print surface. With a powder-coated sheet, you should move your live-Z lower: Filament must fill in the sheet texture. However, you need to be careful and not move the nozzle too low or you will damage your sheet! <strong>Info for different printer users:</strong> PLA is printable not only on PEI surface, but also on glass, Kapton tape, or using a glue stick.</p>
<p><strong>Try to adjust retractions for better results</strong></p>
<p>PLA is sometimes prone to stringing and oozing - this can be reduced with proper retraction settings.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
<div class="c-message__message_blocks c-message__message_blocks--rich_text">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer" data-qa="block-kit-renderer">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper--first">
<div class="p-rich_text_block" dir="auto">
<div class="p-rich_text_section"><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">Chemical smoothing</a> of PLA is possible only in <strong>laboratory conditions</strong> - PLA can be dissolved in <strong>chloroform, hot benzene, or tetrahydrofuran.</strong> These are dangerous organic solvents that should be handled only by skilled lab technicians. Some of the PLA filaments can be also partially dissolved and <strong>glued with acetone</strong> (or you can simply glue it with superglue).</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Static models</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases, cups, and other tabletop models</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Audio volume knob and other electronic parts</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="399" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ABS</strong> is a technical material <strong>suitable for printing mechanically stressed parts</strong>, thanks to its high tenacity and temperature resistance. Its surface can be smoothed with <strong>acetone</strong>. The main disadvantage is significant warping and toxic fumes.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 255 °C&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 100 °C, you can set the bed temperature between 80 to 110 °C depending on the size of an object (larger object means higher temperature).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed: Use the smooth or powder-coated PEI sheet with a glue stick.</strong></div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/asa-abs/"><strong>ABS</strong></a> (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is basically a <strong>predecessor of</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809"><strong>ASA</strong></a>. ABS is generally used for making inexpensive, sturdy mechanical parts (LEGO bricks, car parts, cellphone parts, etc.). The material is <strong>tenacious and temperature resistant</strong> - this makes it suitable for engineering parts, etc. Compared to ASA, there is slightly worse UV resistance and more significant warping and odor during printing. Note that ABS parts used outdoor turn yellowish and more brittle over time.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ABS printing requires specific conditions for successful results. It’s important to run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk. However, when ventilating the room, do not create a draft around the print – this will negatively impact the result.</div>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High tenacity &amp; mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Significant warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ High temperature-resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Requires printer enclosure</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy postprocessing</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Possibility of acetone smoothing and gluing</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of ABS is for printing cheap technical parts requiring good heat and mechanical resistance or parts that need to be acetone smoothed.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Try to keep a high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>The bed should be heated at least up to 100 °C, <strong>the printer should be inside an enclosure</strong> with a higher ambient temperature.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">You can purchase the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> in our e-shop.</p>
<p>It is also possible to <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p></div>
<p>If you don’t have an enclosure, there’s one simple alternative: in <strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>, set the skirt value as high as possible. This will keep the model slightly warmer and mitigate the warping. Printing inside an enclosure can lead to deformation of the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/">fan shroud</a> and other plastic parts. This can affect the printer's functionality. In case your plastic parts tend to deform, we recommend printing them from a more temperature resistant material, for example <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>.</p>
<p><strong>Shrinkage</strong></p>
<p>You should keep in mind that <strong>ABS-printed parts tend to shrink slightly</strong> after cooldown. We recommend printing a testing object and comparing it with a source model. The shrinkage factor of this material is somewhere around 1-2%.</p>
<p><strong>Removing prints</strong></p>
<p>When removing prints with a large surface area, it is very important to let the part and sheet cool properly. <strong>You may have to assist the process using a spatula.</strong> Be gentle when flexing the sheet and removing the print as the smooth PEI foil can tear.</p>
<p><strong>Printing with HIPS</strong></p>
<p>If you print with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>, you can use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/hips_167118">HIPS</a> for printing supports - this material has similar print settings to ABS and can be easily dissolved in limonene.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<p>ABS can be sanded wet and dry and smoothed with acetone fumes, just like ASA (see more in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">article about chemical smoothing</a>)</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 319px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lego bricks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed model</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-600x337.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-800x449.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-300x168.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up-768x431.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Up.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="300" height="168"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>Polyamide</strong> (Nylon) is a versatile material with <strong>excellent thermal and mechanical resistance.</strong> It is suitable for printing functional technical parts with high temperature and mechanical resistance requirements. However, it’s very hard to print and therefore recommended for experienced users only.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 285 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 110 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Special PA Nylon sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><strong>Polyamide is an extremely resilient material</strong>, resistant to abrasion, suitable especially for technical parts. It has excellent layer adhesion. In large volumes, it has great mechanical resistance, while in thin layers it remains flexible. Its coefficient of friction is low, <strong>melting temperature is high. However, polyamide is hygroscopic</strong>, so it is necessary to keep it dry (airtight with desiccant). Improper storage can lead it to absorb water weighing up to 10% of filament weight. Polyamides emit a strong odor with potentially dangerous ultrafine particles (UFPs) so printing in a well-ventilated room or in an enclosure is a must.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a>&nbsp;</p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Great mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Prone to warping</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ Tough in large volumes, flexible in thin layers</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">
<p>✖ Highly hygroscopic material</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 47.0514%;">
<p>✔ High-temperature resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.0703%;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of polyamide is for printing technical parts requiring <strong>great heat, chemical, and mechanical resistance.</strong> Pure polyamide is also good for making a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075">cold pull cleaning</a>.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Keep the filament dry</strong></p>
<p>Dry the filament before printing, at least 4 hours with a temperature below 90 °C. Moist polyamide filament makes bubbles, which leads to uneven layers and an ugly surface.</p>
<p><strong>Print it in high ambient temperature</strong></p>
<p>Print settings are usually quite similar to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812">PC</a> - with nozzle temperature around 285 °C. Apart from moisture issues, <strong>the main disadvantage of pure polyamide is warping</strong>. <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/mmu2s-printer-enclosure_30215/">High ambient temperature (enclosure)</a> helps a lot. However, you can get polyamides filled with carbon fibers, like our Prusament PA11 Carbon Fiber. These filaments don't warp by far as much as the unaltered versions and can be printed without an enclosure.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 50px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 32px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Gear-Wheel_1-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 32px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/b70f3de793315642-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Gears</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Bendable objects</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Polyamide (Nylon)

<p>Creating a brand new 3D model from scratch can be a little daunting if you have no prior experience. However, at some point, you will probably run out of <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/where-can-you-get-3d-models_2179">pre-made 3D models to download and print</a> or not find exactly what you need. Time to give 3D modeling a go.</p>
<p>There are various ways of getting into 3D modeling. You will, obviously, need a 3D modeling software and learn the basics. Rest assured that there are less complicated and free options for modeling 3D instead, instead of jumping right into the deep end of CAD design other top-tier commercial solutions.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For inspiration, check out <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/">Prusaprinters.org</a>, our very own universe of 3D models made by our awesome community!</div>
<h3>Modeling programs for beginners</h3>
<p><strong>TinkerCad</strong> (<a href="https://www.tinkercad.com">https://www.tinkercad.com</a>): The easiest way to quickly create your own models. TinkerCad is an online editor (no installation required) allowing you to create 3D models directly in a browser window. It is free, easy to operate, and you will even find basic video tutorials. So after a few minutes of tinkering, you will be ready to create your first 3D object.&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Fusion 360</strong> (<a href="https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview">https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview</a>): Another popular tool for creating models. Fusion 360 is available for PC, Mac, and iOS (iPad). It is arguably more complex than Tinkercad; however, the official website provides a quick guide along with detailed video tutorials, making it also an excellent choice for novice enthusiasts.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">We have a tutorial on <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/parametric-modeling-in-fusion360_37411/">parametric modeling using Fusion360 on our blog</a>!</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/screen-shot-2018-01-03-at-14-18-59.png"></p>
<h3>Other modeling programs&nbsp;</h3>
<p>There is a great deal of 3D modeling programs out there, both free and paid. Your choice depends mostly on your personal taste and preferences. If you feel like TinkerCad and Fusion 360 lack some features or functions, you should research the following software:</p>
<ul>
<li>OpenSCAD (free)</li>
<li>DesignSpark Mechanical</li>
<li>SketchUp</li>
<li>Blender (free)</li>
<li>Maya</li>
<li>3DS Max</li>
<li>FreeCAD (free)</li>
</ul>


Creating your own 3D models

<div class="warning-callout">This guide is for the E3D V6 Hotend on the MK-series. <strong>NOT FOR THE PRUSA MINI!</strong></div>
<p>You can find the complete <a href="https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Assembly">E3Ds assembly manual of the V6 hotend</a>, which can be followed backward for disassembly. <strong>This is the stock hotend on an Original Prusa MK3S/MK2.5S/MK2S.</strong> However, as the manual works with brand new parts, it does not consider the changes that happen when being heated repeatedly to hundreds of degrees, again and again. Metal contracts and expands and thermal paste will turn crusty over time. Therefore there are some changes to the procedure when disassembling after a long time of use.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">To extract the hotend follow this simple guide for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664">MK3S/MK2,5S/MMU2S</a>, and for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3-mk2-5_17360">MK3/MK2.5</a>.</div>
<h3>Disassembly</h3>
<p>The <a href="https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Assembly">assembly manual for the V6</a> is still optimal for most of this procedure, with a few exceptions. Moving backward, you are first removing the nozzle (at 280 °C) to release the heatbreak. However, this makes it harder to remove the heatbreak from the heat sink in later steps.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For replacing certain parts of the V6 hotend, like heatsink, heater block, thermistor, etc. you can follow our guide <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heaterblock-heatsink-mk3-mk2-5_14944">How to replace a heatbreak/heaterblock/heatsink (MK3/MK2.5)</a>.</div>
<p>As the heatbreak can be quite fragile, and its threads me be damaged if you try to grip it with pliers, <strong>we recommend that you unscrew the heatsink from the heatbreak, before removing the nozzle,</strong> which locks the heatbreak in place. A Heatbreak can still bend and break so do not unscrew it at an angle. A bend will create a whole range of printing issues.</p>
<p>After you have unscrewed the heat sink from the heatbreak, proceed with the E3Ds assembly manual, by heating the block and unscrewing the nozzle.</p>
<h3>Too late, it is already stuck!</h3>
<p>Follow this procedure to resolve the issue.</p>
<ol>
<li>Without any heat, manually screw your nozzle into its threaded hole in the heater block.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Screw it all the way in, then loosen it back a full turn (as described in step 3 of the E3D V6 Hotend assembly) creating a gap of about 1mm between nozzle and block.</li>
<li>Then screw the heatbreak, with the attached heatsink, into the heatblock from the other side as far as it will go.</li>
<li>Tighten the nozzle with a pair of pliers and you now have a better handle. You can also grab this with pliers for some leverage when unscrewing the stuck heatsink.</li>
</ol>


Hotend disassembly & heatbreak stuck in the heatsink

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-600x337.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-1536x863.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-2048x1151.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="400" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>Composite materials</strong> (PLA, PETG, Nylon, PC, or ABS filled with carbon, kevlar etc.) usually have better mechanical properties than unaltered filaments. Composite filaments have <strong>better dimensional stability,</strong> can be <strong>more lightweight,</strong> but are harder to print.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 240-275 °C (depending on filament type)</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 75-110 °C (depending on filament type)</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Print surface preparation depends on the filament type. See our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table</a> to find out more.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p>Carbon and kevlar fibers or glass powder are mixed with various polymers in order to <strong>improve their mechanical properties.</strong> It’s usually combined with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/pla_2062"><strong>PLA</strong></a><strong>,</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059"><strong>PETG</strong></a><strong>,</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polyamide-nylon_167188"><strong>Nylon</strong></a><strong>,</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812"><strong>PC</strong></a> <strong>or</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058"><strong>ABS</strong></a> - this increases the filament flexibility, toughness and resistance (with proper print settings). Fibers inside the filament improve its dimensional stability, making it lightweight and less susceptible to warping. Printing temperatures are slightly higher than for unaltered filaments. It is also necessary to count on worse print characteristics, for example <strong>often nozzle clogging, oozing, and filament breaking.</strong>&nbsp;</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>✔ Good abrasion resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>✖ A hardened steel nozzle is needed</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>✔ Dimensional stability</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>✖ Filament more brittle</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>✔ Similar printing temperature to single material filaments</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>✖ Worse layer-to-layer adhesion</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 57.0892%;">
<p>✔ Nice look</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 42.0325%;">
<p>✖ High risk of nozzle clogging</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>Composite filaments are mostly used for making <strong>RC models</strong> (drone frames, airframes, car parts, etc.), in <strong>the aircraft industry</strong> (functional prototypes) and <strong>automobile industry</strong> (functional prototypes).</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Use a hardened nozzle</strong></p>
<p>Carbon and kevlar fibers are <strong>highly abrasive</strong> so it is necessary to use <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/hardened-steel-nozzle-e3d-v6/">a hardened nozzle.</a></p>
<p><strong>Clean the nozzle before printing</strong></p>
<p>It’s good to make <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075"><strong>cold pull</strong></a> before printing to make sure that the nozzle is really clean.</p>
<p><strong>First layer settings</strong></p>
<p>The first layer should be <strong>perfectly fine</strong>, otherwise, you risk the nozzle clogging. The higher the layer height is and the wider the nozzle diameter is, the lower the chance of clogging the nozzle is. The lowest optimal values are 0.4mm nozzle diameter and 0.2mm layer height.</p>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Print surface preparation depends on the filament type. See our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table</a> to find out more.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-600x337.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-1536x863.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f231619879088569-2048x1151.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/53c98c82a642f2df-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>RC drone frame</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Turbine</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f1d6c58ebe826e59-2048x1366.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Turboprop</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


Composite materials (filled with carbon, kevlar or glass)

<p>The best way to get started with 3D printing is to find pre-made models on the internet - they should be in the <strong>.stl, .obj or .3mf</strong> format to be used with PrusaSlicer. Fortunately, 3D printing has fans all over the world, and there are some great websites, where you can download a large variety of awesome 3D models.</p>
<p>3D models are generally free to download under the <strong>Creative Commons -&nbsp;Attribution -&nbsp;Non Commercial licenses,</strong> which means models are not to be used commercially. Otherwise, you must always credit the author. In some cases, you can download the models for a small fee and support the authors.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Printables.com</h3>
<p>We have released our own platform, <a href="https://www.printables.com/">Printables.com</a>. There you can download both object files and pre-made GCODE files, for thousands of projects.</p>
<p>The <a href="https://www.printables.com/">Printables.com</a> platform is also built around the community, and using <a href="https://www.printables.com/group/discover">the 'Groups' feature</a> you will be able to find likeminded people in your area, create cooperations and connections with other makers.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED-600x373.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED-800x497.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED-300x186.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ppviewSCALED-768x477.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="373"></p>
<h3>Other platforms</h3>
<p>There are plenty of platforms out there to pick from, but here is a list we have found helpful, in no particular order. Some of these platforms have both free and paid models, depending on your budget or need.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com">www.thingiverse.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.pinshape.com">www.pinshape.com</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youmagine.com">www.youmagine.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.yeggi.com">www.yeggi.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.myminifactory.com">www.myminifactory.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.cults3d.com">www.cults3d.com</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Preparing downloaded models for printing</h3>
<p>Before you can start printing them, you need to convert them into .gcode files first, <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/category/prusaslicer_204">using a slicer</a>. We recommend PrusaSlicer, as it is powerful, open-source, and contains built-in presets and configurations for all Original Prusa 3D printers and a few others.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Once downloading other people's models becomes a little dull, you can start creating your very own models. A great start to 3D modeling is our article&nbsp;<strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/creating-your-own-3d-models_2209">Creating your own 3D models</a>.</strong></div>


Where can you get 3D models?

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-768x768.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/bright_green-2048x2048.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3><strong>Basic info</strong></h3>
<div>Polyvinyl butyral (PVB) is a material designed for easy smoothing with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Thanks to its transparency, it’s suitable for printing vases, lamp shades and other design objects. Print settings are similar to PLA, while its mechanical properties are slightly better.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 215±10 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 75 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Smooth PEI or satin TXT sheet will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pvb/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PVB</strong></a> (Polyvinyl butyral) has similar print settings to PLA, mechanical properties are comparable with CPE or low-tier PETG. Thanks to its translucency and IPA smoothing, it is an ideal choice when you want to make design objects, such as unconventional vases, jewellery, lamp shades and similar objects. The most ideal are models that require partially transparent surface. It’s recommended to tweak print settings, especially layer height, number of perimeters and infill density. We recommend printing with large nozzle diameter and spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>PVB is not suitable for printing mechanical parts. Its dimensional stability is great, tenacity and tensile strength is comparable to CPE (and low-tier PETG) but temperature resistance is similar to PLA.</p>
<p>Since it's an easy-to-print material (similar to PLA), PVB is a great choice for both experienced and new 3D printer users that would like to try something new.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials"><strong>material table.</strong></a></p>
<table class="striped" style="width: 100%; height: 515px;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Print settings similar to PLA</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Low layer to layer adhesion</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Filament transparency</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Hygroscopic filament (absorbs moisture)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Ideal for design parts, vases, lamp shades etc.</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">
<p>✖ Higher price</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ IPA chemical smoothing</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 53px;">
<p>✔ Great surface adhesion</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 53px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good tenacity (similar to CPE)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good tensile strength (similar to PETG)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Low warping (lower than PLA)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<td style="width: 55.3743%; height: 50px;">
<p>✔ Good for using 0.8mm nozzle</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 43.9147%; height: 50px;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of PVB is for printing transparent models, such as jewellery, vases, lamp shades etc.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Do not use standard powder-coated TXT sheet</strong></p>
<p>PVB adheres well to a clean <strong>smooth PEI sheet</strong> or <strong>satin TXT sheet</strong>. Powder-coated TXT sheet might not provide a good adhesion.</p>
<p><strong>Use the spiral vase mode</strong></p>
<p>When printing transparent parts that require IPA smoothing, it’s good to print with a larger nozzle diameter (0.8mm) and with the spiral vase mode on. Printing with more perimeters will make layers visible even after IPA smoothing.</p>
<p><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
<div class="c-message__message_blocks c-message__message_blocks--rich_text">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer" data-qa="block-kit-renderer">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper--first">
<div class="p-rich_text_block" dir="auto">
<div>The main advantage of PVB is the possibility of IPA smoothing. PVB models can be smoothed out with IPA fumes (smoothing box or professional smoothing station), washing in an IPA bath or direct application (brush or spray). Detailed smoothing description can be found in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/prusament-pvb-our-new-transparent-filament-made-for-easy-chemical-smoothing_43066/">dedicated article</a>, general smoothing instructions can be found in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">older article</a>.</div>
<div>
<p><strong>Keep the filament dry</strong></p>
<p><strong>PVB is very prone to absorbing moisture.</strong> Always put the spool back inside the bag with silica gel or <strong>let it dry</strong> for 8 hours at 45 °C before printing!</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/shade-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/color_change_vase-1-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="533"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lamp shades</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Vases</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/mask-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-600x400.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-300x200.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/organic3-2048x1365.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="800" height="534"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Masks and other design parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Miniatures</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>HIPS</strong> is a tough material suitable for printing large objects or supports for large models printed from ABS, ASA, or PETG. It has good print surface adhesion and can be dissolved in limonene (or acetone, although that would melt the ABS/ASA model as well).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 220 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 110 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> All of our (smooth PEI, powder-coated TXT and powder-coated satin) sheets will provide the best adhesion.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><strong>HIPS</strong> (High Impact Polystyrene) is polystyrene with rubber additives. It has good mechanical properties and dimensional stability. Print and mechanical parameters <strong>resemble</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058"><strong>ABS</strong></a><strong>,</strong> but <strong>HIPS</strong> is lighter and <strong>shrinks much less.</strong> It can be dissolved with <strong>limonene (d-Limonene to be specific)</strong> - therefore is usable for printing soluble supports for more complicated <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a>, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/asa_1809">ASA</a> or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059">PETG</a> prints. <strong>HIPS can be sanded,</strong> just as ABS and ASA, plus it can be attached to a print surface with ABS dissolved in acetone - this is not needed when using our print sheets though, as HIPS sticks well enough to PEI surface.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 209px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 45.964%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 53.3249%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 45.964%;">
<p>✔ Good mechanical properties</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 53.3249%;">
<p>✖ Printing HIPS supports might be challenging</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 45.964%;">
<p>✔ Limonene or acetone soluble</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 53.3249%;">
<p>✖ ABS or ASA might also partially dissolve in limonene</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 45.964%;">
<p>✔ Soluble support material</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 53.3249%;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of HIPS is as a soluble support material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Printing supports might be challenging</strong></p>
<p>Keep in mind that printing ASA, ABS, or PETG with HIPS supports might be challenging if you use <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/set-original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>. Are you beginning to print with MMU2S? Try to print with PLA or PETG first to gain some experience, then try to print with soluble supports. MMU2S unit must be well calibrated for printing with HIPS and even then it might need user attention from time to time.</p>
<p><strong>Brim function</strong></p>
<p>In some cases, HIPS might not stick to the print surface as good as, for example, ASA. In that case, we suggest using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969"><strong>brim function</strong></a>, especially for parts with a small contact area.</p>
<h3><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></h3>
<p><strong>Dissolving with limonene</strong></p>
<p>HIPS can be smoothed and <strong>dissolved with limonene and acetone.</strong> However, with limonene, you cannot utilize its fumes (as we do it with ABS or ASA), as it is an oily substance. For successful smoothing, sink the model for several seconds (10-20 s should be enough) into a limonene bath. Then let it dry for at least 24 hours (a slight temperature increase might speed up the drying process). Keep in mind that residual limonene might remain on the surface long after drying and that the model itself will have a citrus smell for a long time.</p>
<p><strong>Limonene over-exposure</strong></p>
<p>Although HIPS is being used for printing ABS/ASA/PETG supports and will dissolve completely after long exposure to limonene, it is <strong>not wise to expose it to the solvent for too long.</strong> Some of the ABS and ASA filaments (Prusament ASA Orange for example) are also affected by limonene - it will disrupt the layer adhesion and the model will fall apart into tiny flakes. Instead of dissolving the supports completely, try to just loosen them up by a brief submersion into limonene, then remove the supports manually.</p>
<p><strong>Acetone smoothing</strong></p>
<p>HIPS acetone smoothing is much easier than smoothing ABS or ASA. HIPS layers will melt <strong>almost immediately</strong> (the whole process takes just a few minutes), plus models tend to dry much faster than ASA and ABS - where you can safely touch them sooner.</p>
<p>Find out more about chemical smoothing in our <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/%7C">blog article.</a></p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 204px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 186px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/debb6ba2c0345e6d-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 186px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/91be465225ee8546-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Dissolving HIPS supports with limonene</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Acetone/limonene smoothed models</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


HIPS

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="400" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>CPE is a material suitable for prototyping various mechanical parts.</strong> Its qualities are similar to PETG, it being odorless and its low warping. CPE has good chemical resistance, layer adhesion, and print surface adhesion.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 275 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 90 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed</strong>: Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on the smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/cpe/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">CPE</strong></a> is a co-polyester based on terephthalic acid. Thanks to its properties similar to PETG or ABS, and good layer adhesion it’s good for printing <strong>prototypes of mechanical parts.</strong> CPE excels in its chemical and mechanical resistance and dimensional stability. Unlike with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a>, there is no strong odor or warping issues. <strong>CPE</strong> is a <strong>chemically and temperature-resistant</strong> material (resistance up to 75 °C). The tensile strength of CPE is similar to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2058">ABS</a>. It’s suitable for printing <strong>thin-walled models due to its translucency.</strong> CPE is good for making visual and functional prototypes, mechanical parts, etc.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Note that CPE sticks strongly to the print sheet and might damage its surface</strong> when being removed too recklessly. As with <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059">PETG</a>, clean the smooth sheet with window cleaner, and consider applying a glue stick.</div>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good mechanical resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ High printing temperature</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Too strong print surface adhesion</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good temperature and chemical resistance</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Stringing issues similar to PETG</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Hygroscopic material</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of CPE is for printing technical parts requiring good <strong>chemical and mechanical resistance.</strong> CPE is good for making visual and functional prototypes, mechanical parts, etc.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p>Most of the print settings are similar to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059"><strong>PETG</strong></a>.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Use a textured print sheet</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets.</strong> <strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 84px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 66px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-800x450.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-300x169.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-768x432.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bca224fead629650-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 66px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ea867a87994cbe28.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ea867a87994cbe28-534x400.jpg 534w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ea867a87994cbe28-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ea867a87994cbe28-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ea867a87994cbe28-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ea867a87994cbe28-1536x1151.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ea867a87994cbe28-2048x1535.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1889"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Chemically and mechanically resistant parts</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Various boxes</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<p>This will be covered more extensively in the near future, but for now, we want to give you a quick overview on how to use some of the amazing new features available in PrusaSlicer. This guide sums up using primitives (cubes, spheres, cylinders, etc.) to affect selected regions of your 3d-model in different ways, be it various infill, perimeters, or custom supports.</p>
<div class="hd--html" style="text-align: center;"><iframe loading="lazy" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6PVeh43Or-g" width="640" height="380" frameborder="0" align="centre" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<h3>Modifier meshes</h3>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Modifier meshes apply custom settings to the intersection of the modifier mesh and the model.</strong></div>
<p><strong>Right-click</strong>&nbsp;on a model and pick&nbsp;<strong>Add modifier - [Select modifier type]</strong>. When you pick the modifier shape (e.g. cube) it will appear in the 3D view and in the Object list in the right panel.</p>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 450px;" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier-0-300x277.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier-0-434x400.jpg 434w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier-0-768x708.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier-0-650x600.jpg 650w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier-0.jpg" data-hd-height="450px"></p>
</td>
<td>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 450px;" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/rightclick-model-286x300.png 286w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/rightclick-model-381x400.png 381w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/rightclick-model-571x600.png 571w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/rightclick-model.png" data-hd-height="450px"></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>You can either right-click on the modifier in the 3D view or click on the gear icon in the Object list panel to generate modifier-meshes.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Choosing "Add part" from the same list will create an object that will be sliced as the model, but can be moved in the Z-axis as well.</div>
<p>There are 4 primitives to choose from - Cube, Cylinder, Sphere, and Slab. Additionally, in the expert mode, you can <strong>use any STL-file as a modifier-mesh</strong> by selecting&nbsp;<strong>Load …</strong> in the mesh selection. This mesh is typically something you’ve modeled beforehand in a 3D-modelling program.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">You can use the familiar&nbsp;<strong>Move, Rotate, and Scale-</strong>tools to transform the modifier-mesh.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 450px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier-300x267.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier-450x400.jpg 450w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier-768x683.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add-modifier-674x600.jpg 674w" width="600" height="534" data-hd-height="450px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="note-callout">Some settings are only available in <strong>Advanced and Expert-mode</strong>: <strong>Advanced mode</strong>&nbsp;- custom infill, layers, and perimeters or support material <strong>Expert mode&nbsp;</strong>- custom infill, layers, and perimeters, support material, extrusion width, speed, and several other settings</div>
<div class="tip-callout">If you scale the model then both model and modifier-mesh will scale. Modifier-mesh will retain its size and position relative to the model.</div>
<h3>Custom supports</h3>
<p>Using custom supports is the same approach as modifier-meshes, where you instead choose "Add Support enforcers" for applying supports and "Add Support Blockers" to remove supports in certain areas. Supports will be generated to where the Enforcer intersects with the main model. <strong>Be sure to enable support enforcers,</strong> in the drop-down menu found above your list of models.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 450px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-types.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-types-282x300.jpg 282w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-types-376x400.jpg 376w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-types-768x817.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support-types-564x600.jpg 564w" width="600" height="638" data-hd-height="450px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you select "Support on built-plate only" or "Everywhere" only Support blockers can be utilized.</div>
<h3>Height range modifier&nbsp;</h3>
<p><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and pick the&nbsp;<strong>Height range modifier</strong>&nbsp;from the same context menu you added the modifier-mesh or Support enforcer/blocker. A new window will appear in the right panel called&nbsp;<strong>Height ranges</strong>. Here you set intervals, between which you can apply different settings. When you set an interval, it will appear in the Object list in the right panel.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 450px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/heightrange.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/heightrange-300x265.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/heightrange-454x400.jpg 454w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/heightrange-768x677.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/heightrange-680x600.jpg 680w" width="600" height="529" data-hd-height="450px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="note-callout">You can add or remove intervals with the orange&nbsp;<strong>plus&nbsp;</strong>and&nbsp;<strong>minus&nbsp;</strong>icons.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 250px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/image-4.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/image-4-300x122.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/image-4-600x244.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/image-4-768x312.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/image-4-800x325.png 800w" width="600" height="244" data-hd-height="250px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>When you click on the gear icon next to the interval, you can choose to set up:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Advanced mode</strong>&nbsp;- custom infill, layers, and perimeters or support material</li>
<li><strong>Expert mode</strong>&nbsp;- custom infill, layers and perimeters, support material, extrusion width, speed, and several other settings</li>
</ul>
<p>The interval setting also features a&nbsp;<strong>layer height input</strong>. By default, the global layer-setting is used, but you can choose to slice the model at a different layer height and only the interval will be affected by this change. Keep in mind that if you set up a different layer height for the entire model, on the height interval it will be overridden by this value.</p>
<h3>Modeling using PrusaSlicer</h3>
<p>These features essentially enable you to do modeling/remixing using only PrusaSlicer. Below is an example where a Tartasauro, by Thingiverse-user 'gianpaolo', has been hollowed out and made into "Piggy-bank" using only the features explained here. The threading and screw-cap at the bottom are both the same model, found online. Void and coin-slot are primitives generated by PrusaSlicer, with infill, perimeters, and top/bottom-layers set to zero.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Download the .3mf project-file <a href="https://files.helpdocs.io/Sd0njU6Ihj/other/1579269917594/tartasauro-0-15-mm-pla-mk.3mf">here</a> to have a look for yourself. Simply open it in PrusaSlicer.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 450px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/piggygod.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/piggygod-300x243.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/piggygod-493x400.png 493w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/piggygod-768x623.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/piggygod-739x600.png 739w" width="600" height="487" data-hd-height="450px" data-hd-align="center"></p>


Modifier-meshes: Custom supports and other magic

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="300" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>NGEN is a material similar to PETG</strong>, but with better printability, high mechanical and chemical resistance, and a wide range of usage from prototypes and aesthetic models to high-tech prosthetics.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 240 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 90 °C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<p><strong>NGEN</strong> is made by <strong>ColorFabb</strong> from Eastman Amphora™ AM3300 polymer. <strong>This material resembles</strong> <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059"><strong>PETG</strong></a> (similar print settings) but is a little bit better in some regards. NGEN is for example printable with a wide range of temperatures, is almost odorless, its bridging and overhangs are slightly better than PETG, plus it looks good. You can print functional, resistant, and aesthetically interesting models with it. NGEN is a thermoplastic material, therefore it degrades only a little when being melted again.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped" style="height: 368px; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 50px;">
<th style="height: 50px; width: 52.1957%;">
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th style="height: 50px; width: 46.926%;">
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.1957%;">
<p>✔ High mechanical, temperature, and chemical resistance</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 46.926%;">
<p>✖ Stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.1957%;">
<p>✔ Low thermal polymer degradation when melted</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 46.926%;">
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.1957%;">
<p>✔ Similar to PETG</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 46.926%;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 53px;">
<td style="height: 53px; width: 52.1957%;">
<p>✔ Wide range of use</p>
</td>
<td style="height: 53px; width: 46.926%;">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>The best use of NGEN is similar to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059">PETG</a> - mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use, or decorative purposes such as lampshades.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for successful printing</strong></h3>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Use a textured print sheet</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/pei-print-surface-preparation_2203">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p>NGEN has slightly <strong>worse surface adhesion</strong> than PETG - it might not stick as good to the powder-coated sheet. If you print models with a small contact surface, use the brim function.</p>
<p><strong>Nozzle temperature and print speed</strong></p>
<p>The manufacturer suggests setting the nozzle temperature according to the layer height and printing speed (optimal setup should be 220-240 °C for 50mm/s and 0.2mm layer height), but you can find a <strong>print profile in</strong> <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/"><strong>PrusaSlicer</strong></a> <strong>that is tailored for our printers.</strong>&nbsp;100% print fan speed is not appropriate for the whole print time since it decreases layer adhesion - it’s good to experiment with this.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Material flow can be calculated by the following formula: Flow (mm3/s) = (layer height*nozzle diameter)*print speed.</div>
<p><strong>Cooling</strong></p>
<p>The manufacturer advises to turn cooling <strong>ON for perimeters</strong>, but <strong>OFF for infill</strong>. The print speed should be slower for bridging.</p>
<p><strong>Retractions</strong></p>
<p>Retractions should be set a little bit higher and faster than for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/pla_2062">PLA</a> - to find out the proper value, start with PLA settings, then adjust them.</p>
<h3><strong>Chemical smoothing</strong></h3>
<p>NGEN is soluble in dichloromethane</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 217px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 199px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/80ec37266ae719e6-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 199px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0402f646333a29e9.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0402f646333a29e9-533x400.jpg 533w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0402f646333a29e9-800x600.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0402f646333a29e9-300x225.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0402f646333a29e9-768x576.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0402f646333a29e9-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/0402f646333a29e9-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Prosthetics</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Vase</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


NGEN

<p>Slic3r PE upgraded to 1.34.1 – Up to 4x faster slicing thanks to parallelization</p>


1.7.7

<p>Manual is suitable even for 3mm version except material temperatures and images.</p>


1.01

<ul>
<li>Improved XYZ calibration</li>
<li>XYZ calibration results are now available in Support menu</li>
<li>Selftest fixed</li>
<li>Improved unload filament</li>
<li>Multi Material</li>
<li>When stopping a print, user is asked what filaments to unload</li>
<li>“T?” Gcode added, which selects extruder to use prior to the print</li>
<li>Added support for MK1</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm