MINI

<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade <br /></strong></p>
<p>The current lead time is <strong>1 week </strong>for both xLCD versions.</p>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order week</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order date</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Shipping estimate</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">Week 33</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">starts August 12, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 33.25px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="7">Already shipped</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 34</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 19, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 35</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 26, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 36</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts September 2, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 37</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 9, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">Week 38</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">starts September 16, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 39</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 23, 2024</td>
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<tr style="height: 27px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 40</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 30, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 101.203px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="8">Currently shipping</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 41</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 7, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 42</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 14, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 43</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 21, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 44</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 28, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Week 45</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">starts November 4, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Week 46</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">starts November 11, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Week 47</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">starts November 18, 2024</td>
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<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Week 48</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">starts November 25, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">From week 49 (starts December 2)</td>
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<p></p>
<p> </p>
<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: November 28th, 2024 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p></p>
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<h4>Product</h4>
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<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
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<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade<br /></strong>/MK4S upgrade for versions with old xLCD</p>
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<p><strong>1 week</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1 week</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit (for MK4S/MK3.9S)</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK4S/MK3.9S) </strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 49px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />for MK4S/MK3.9S</strong></p>
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<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 49px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
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<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical </strong>resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the <strong>XY plane</strong>, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The layer height should be below 80% of the nozzle diameter (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters.</p>
<p>The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">the spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, except the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top parts of models are usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/41556b3e1891b8d0ae47c43fb032cb68.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Layers and Perimeters REVIEW" alt="" width="600" height="128" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see some sag in the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Note that when printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<p>This option was removed in PrusaSlicer 2.6. The new algorithm is much smarter than the previous implementations and is automatically applied where needed.</p>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer ensures it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space, an infill pattern fills the void between these inside/outside perimeters. </p>
<p>Enabling <strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate a single perimeter that works as both an inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<p>This feature is automatically disabled if the <strong>Arachne perimeter generator</strong> is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historical reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick Bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em> Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan. </p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arrange them into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>Staggered inner seams</h3>
<p>This feature causes the inner seams to be shifted backward based on their depth, forming a zigzag pattern. This creates a stronger part by avoiding that the seams align.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<h3>Perimeter generator</h3>
<p>Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.</p>


Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

Infill patterns

Original Prusa MINI Enclosure

The Original Prusa MINI/MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

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Manual changelog MINI semi-assembly

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Manual changelog MINI Enclosure

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer will display "Mintemp error" for the heatbed if the printer's heatbed temperature goes below 15 ºC at any point. In this case, the printer will stop the heating and display the message on the screen. The printer then waits for the user to inspect all parts and if needed fix the issue.</p>
<p>Error name: Mintemp error bed</p>
<p>Error code: #12207</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The error might indicate some issue with the wiring, either the heater or the thermistor cables are possibly damaged.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>When running the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/selftest-failed-mini-mini_112055">self-test</a> you must have the flexible steel sheet placed on the magnetic heatbed.</strong> Without it, the self-test can fail and give you the Mintemp bed error.</div>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Check the heatbed, where the thermistor and heater resides, that no wires have broken off the sensor or heater themselves. While the printer is turned off, carefully try to move the wires by hand. If any of them have come detached your search is over and the part needs to be changed. <strong>It is not recommended to solder these wires,</strong> moreover, for the thermistor, it will change its resistance and thus readings. Spare parts can be found in our e-shop, or you can contact <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Support</a> for assistance.</p>
<p>Try preheating the heatbed in <em>LCD-menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperatures -&gt; Heatbed</em> to 90 ºC. After the temperature is reached, move the cables behind the heatbed by hand to see if the error will appear. In case the LCD main screen shows 0/0 in the heatbed temperature, check the cable connections to the Buddy board.</p>
<p>Loosen the one screw securing the cover (circled in the picture below), remove the top cable cover and flip it open to reveal the board.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cda8a825a82531aa-1536x1152.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<p>Check that all the connectors are secure in their sockets, according to the picture below. Focus on the thermistor and heater cables (yellow arrows). Though unlikely, rough shipping or handling could have shaken the heater or thermistor cables loose.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/161ad41bf0a287d1_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" width="600" height="450" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h4>Checking the resistance</h4>
<p>The table below describes the correct resistance for each part, as well as what scale you should set your meter to. <strong>We have another more in-depth guide on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/multimeter-usage_2117">Multimeter usage</a>.</strong> All thermistors are rated to be <strong>100 kΩ at 25 °C.</strong> To be realistic, with a varying temperature between 20 °C and 30 <strong>°</strong>C, <strong>you can expect a wider range of readings (~85-125 kΩ) than with the heater.</strong></p>
<div class="tip-callout">There can be micro-fractures in the cable, breaking the connections only at certain positions. Therefore, try to move the cable a bit while doing the measurement and see if the value changes drastically.</div>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<h5>Part</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<h5>Resistance</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<h5>Multimeter scale</h5>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Thermistors (Bed and hotend)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[80 kΩ - 125 kΩ]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 kΩ</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Heatbed</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[6.5 Ω - 7 Ω ]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 Ω</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The part should be cold (room temperature) and unplugged when measuring the resistance!</strong></div>
<h4>Where to measure</h4>
<p>For every component, there are several options, our main focus will be on the connectors. The measurement appears on the multimeter LCD as soon as the measurement probes touch the component. To obtain the correct and relevant values, this is where you need to apply the probes:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Thermistors:</strong> metal inserts in plastic connectors</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 330px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-300x217.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-554x400.jpg 554w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-768x554.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor-800x577.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-thermistor.jpg" data-hd-height="330px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Heater cables:</strong> screws holding the cables in the connector</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 320px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-300x209.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-574x400.jpg 574w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-768x536.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/mm-heater-800x558.jpg 800w" data-hd-height="320px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>The hot end and heat bed have the same connector. Make sure you measure the correct one.</em></p>
<h3>Parts replacement guide(s)</h3>
<p>In case you find some parts are faulty, please order them using our e-shop, then follow the service guide(s):</p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbed-thermistor-mini-mini_142672">How to replace a heatbed thermistor (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbed-mini-mini_156765">How to replace a heatbed (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>


Mintemp error bed #12207 (MINI)

Prusa Connect &amp; PrusaLink

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>During the configuration of <strong>Prusa Connect</strong> on the <strong>Original Prusa MINI/+</strong>, <strong>MK4/S</strong>, <strong>MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S</strong> or <strong>XL</strong> an error on this configuration can occur and the printer shows the message "<strong>Registration to Prusa Connect failed due to: ~</strong>". In place of <strong>~</strong>, a text with more details is shown, from the list below. Depending on the specific shown text, there are different causes and fixes. </p>
<p>Error name: Connect Registration Failed</p>
<p>Error code: #12401 (MINI), #13401 (MK4), #26401 (MK4S), #21401 (MK3.9), #23401 (MK3.5), #17401 (XL)</p>
<h4>DNS error</h4>
<p>The printer wasn't able to resolve the <strong>hostname</strong> of the Prusa Connect server into an IP address. The hostname is a unique label assigned to a device connected to a network. </p>
<ul>
<li>The printer is not connected to the network at all.</li>
<li>In case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>DNS server</strong> is not configured or configured incorrectly.</li>
<li>The local DNS server is currently not working.</li>
<li>The Connect hostname is reconfigured to some that doesn't exist. For example, this can occur if loading a .ini file with an invalid configuration.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Refused</h4>
<p>It's not possible to reach the server on the network level, hence it is not possible to establish a TCP connection. The system is either not answering at all or actively refuses the connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>The internet connection is not working, or a firewall blocks the communication.</li>
<li>In the case of a <strong>static</strong> configuration (non-DHCP), the <strong>gateway </strong>(typically, this is the IP address of the router) is not configured or configured incorrectly. </li>
<li>The Connect server is under maintenance. </li>
<li>Too many TCP connections are open with the printer, for example in PrusaLink. </li>
</ul>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>This message points to an error doing a <strong>SSL/TLS handshake</strong>. This handshake is the process to create a safe and encrypted connection. </p>
<ul>
<li>Time is not synchronized on the printer (MINI/+). The time synchronization occurs for each internet connection, through the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/ntp-server-mini_151132">NTP server</a>. It is possible this might take more time than initially expected, or rarely, that there might be issues with the server. </li>
<li>A restrictive firewall (for example but not limited to a corporate proxy firewall) may restrict an automatic access to the NTP server. In that case, it will be necessary to manually allow the printer to access the NTP server.</li>
<li>Something in the path is trying to tamper with the communication, for example but not limited to an attack. </li>
</ul>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>The server claims that the printer is not authorized. The printer is not recognized as an Original Prusa. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>The server is returning a <strong>500 Internal Server Error</strong> or similar. The issue is on the Connect side, and is expected to be fixed on its own. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by an issue related to the printer firmware. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Similar to the Refused error, but the connection dropped after it was initialized. </p>
<ul>
<li>Glitchy internet connection.</li>
<li>The <strong>latency</strong> to the Connect servers is too high. A geographic location is very far from our Connect servers can contribute to this cause.</li>
<li>The Connect server is temporarily down.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>The response from the server is not recognized.</p>
<ul>
<li>Bug on the server side. This cause is on our side and expected to be fixed on its own. </li>
<li>Too old firmware on the printer and it's no longer supported.</li>
<li>A misconfiguration from the <strong>.ini file</strong> loaded on the printer, connecting to something different than our Connect server.</li>
</ul>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>DNS error, Refused</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is connected to the internet. In case of a static (non-DHCP) connection, ensure the correct settings are there, or test a DHCP connection. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file. </p>
<p>If the previous steps didn't fix the issue, attempt a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/factory-reset-mini_177516">factory reset</a>. </p>
<h4>TLS error</h4>
<p>Reattempt the Connect registration, after the printer is connected to the internet for a few more minutes. </p>
<p>If the previous step didn't fix the issue, double-check your network <strong>firewall</strong>. Some firewalls will need for the NTP server to be allowed manually. The specific steps will depend on your specific firewall, we recommend checking your firewall documentation. </p>
<h4>Unauthorized</h4>
<p>If your printer is not an Original Prusa printer, it cannot use our Prusa Connect service.</p>
<p>In case your printer is an Original Prusa, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784"> re-flash or update its firmware</a>. </p>
<h4>Server error</h4>
<p>A server error indicates an issue from our side. The issue will be fixed on its own, try registering again to Prusa Connect later. </p>
<h4>Internal error</h4>
<p><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">Re-flash or update the printer firmware</a>. If this does not solve the issue, take note if the printer might have other issues, even if not directly related. </p>
<h4>Network error</h4>
<p>Ensure that your internet connection is stable and not glitchy. To confirm whether an inconsistent internet connection caused the issue, test another connection, if available, such as a hotspot from your mobile phone. </p>
<h4>Protocol error</h4>
<p>Ensure that the printer is running our latest firmware version. If it is running an old version, update the firmware. Also, check the .ini configuration file, and in case, rewrite the file.</p>


Connect Registration Failed

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your printer an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "Firmware in the internal flash corrupted!". The system inside the printer consists of two subsystems. First, there is a bootloader, which then allows the firmware (operating system) to load. While flashing the firmware, something went wrong, and the bootloader is now unable to load it. <strong>Don't worry your printer is OK! You just need to reflash the firmware.</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Error!</p>
<p>Error code: #12608</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Each firmware is tested multiple times before being made public, so the problem is most probably in the flashing procedure.</p>
<p>First, place the USB flash drive back into the computer. <strong>Delete both files and copy them again</strong> from the computer to the USB flash drive. Don't rush and wait until the transfer is fully completed. To be 100 % sure, unmount the flash drive in your operating system before physically removing the drive from the computer. <strong>Insert the drive back into the printer and restart it</strong>. This should initiate the flashing procedure. If not, reboot the printer by pressing the reset button directly next to the knob and as soon as the printer starts booting up, press once the rotating knob. This "forces" the printer to look for firmware (more about this <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784#alternative-method-older-firmware-release">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>In case the troubleshooting in the previous paragraph didn't help. <strong>The problem might be in the USB flash drive. Find any other USB drive</strong> in your household, make sure it is formatted to FAT32, copy both firmware files and <strong>repeat the previously described procedure</strong>.</p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our support team and let them know, that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


Firmware in the internal flash corrupted! #12608 (MINI)

<p>This is an advanced system for displaying error screens, providing more useful information to the user. In case of an issue, the printer will display the name of the error followed by a brief description and a QR code. Take your phone, scan the code, and you will be immediately redirected to an article that will explain in detail what happened to your printer and how to fix the problem.</p>
<p>You can see the printers that show the QR code in our <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Error-Codes">GitHub page</a>. Note that older firmware versions may have different looks.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100.026%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 32.1716%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/a8eb010a2d9a57fbc9c69b36b0477893.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="QR Error codes REVIEW" alt="" width="225" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 67.8023%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/b7e7fce178235ca5a553c4ff07e83c65.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="QR Error codes REVIEW" alt="" width="500" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>How to use the error code</h3>
<div>
<p>In case your printer displays the error screen, there are multiple ways to access the article:</p>
<ul>
<li>Scan the QR code from the printer screen using a phone or tablet</li>
<li>Use the link displayed on the screen (e.g. help.prusa3d.com/en/12201)</li>
<li>Open help.prusa3d.com and search for the error (e.g. 12201)</li>
</ul>
<p>Follow the article explaining what went wrong and how to fix the issue. Note that some errors might require you to replace broken part(s) of the printer. If a replacement is necessary, there will be a link to the service guide at the bottom of the article.</p>
<h3>Error code explained</h3>
<p>How is each code created? Let's use error #12201 again as an example. The code consists of five numbers with the following pattern: XXYZZ</p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18.4px;">
<td style="width: 48.8442%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;"><strong># XXYZZ</strong></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; text-align: center; height: 18.4px;"><strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/preheat-error-bed-12201-mini_112444">Heating failed bed #12201 (MINI)</a></strong></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 119.2px;">
<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 119.2px;">
<p>XX - ID number of the printer, according to USB PID</p>
<p>Y - Error category (common for all printers)</p>
<p>ZZ - ID number for the specific error</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; height: 119.2px;">
<p>12 - Printer number 12: Original Prusa MINI</p>
<p>2 - Error category: Temperature error</p>
<p>01 - Specific error code: Heatbed heating failed</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div>
<h3>Device hash</h3>
<p>The URL link embedded in the QR code may contain an optional “device hash”. This can be disabled in the MINI+ in <em>Settings</em>, and in the SL1 in <em>Settings -&gt; Settings</em> <em>and Sensors</em>, on the MK4 and XL printers in <em>Settings -&gt; System</em>. Including this information enables us to check whether you are running the latest version of firmware, and if not, we will inform you at the top of the article. The information provided in the URL is stored in our database to help us better understand which errors are the most common and how many errors each printer experienced.</p>
</div>
<p>The device hash cannot be used to recover anything sensitive like a serial number and isn’t used for anything else than the QR codes feature therefore there are absolutely no security concerns. This feature is turned ON by default. In case you don't want to use this enhanced feature, you can switch it off in the printer's menu by setting the “Device hash in QR” to OFF.</p>
<p>Once you turn it off, the QR code URL will contain only the following: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/12201/</p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 30.8567%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled-300x400.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled-450x600.jpg 450w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled-225x300.jpg 225w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/MINI_device_hash_toggle_upscaled-768x1024.jpg 768w" alt="" width="250" height="333" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 66.8317%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors-600x360.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors-300x180.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SL1-Setting-and-sensors-768x461.jpg 768w" alt="" width="600" height="360" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Device hash toggle for MINI on the left and SL1 on the right.</em></p>


<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>When flashing the firmware with the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784#alternative-method-older-firmware-release">Alternative Method</a>, you might get the text <strong>"Firmware file missing in the USB flash!"</strong>.</p>
<p>Error name: No file on USB</p>
<p>Error code: #12604</p>
<p>This error happens when you use the alternative method of flashing the MINI/+ firmware, but the printer does not find any firmware in the USB drive that can be uploaded to the printer.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">Download the firmware</a> and if necessary the bootloader, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and restart it to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob (more about this on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>If the issue persists, the problem might be in the USB flash drive. Find any other USB drive in your household, make sure it is formatted to FAT32, copy both firmware files and repeat the previously described procedure.</p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know, that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


No file on USB #12604 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>During the configuration of <strong>Prusa Connect</strong> on the <strong>Original Prusa MINI/+</strong>, an error on this configuration can occur and the printer shows the message "<strong>Registration to Prusa Connect failed due to: ~</strong>". In place of ~, a text with more details is shown. </p>
<p>Error name: Connect Registration Failed</p>
<p>Error code: #12401 </p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<p>Follow the instructions in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/connect-registration-failed_654926">Connect Registration Failed guidepost</a>, common to our printers with Buddy firmware, with more details on possible causes for this error and their solutions. </p>


Connect Registration Failed #12401 (MINI)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>During calibration, mesh bed leveling, or before a print, it is crucial for the printer firmware to determine the print head and heatbed position. This is done through the <strong>homing</strong> process, where the print axes move to a known reference position, called <strong>home</strong>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">A MINI/+ printer in the home position will have the heatbed almost completely moved to the rear, and the print head completely moved right and down. </div>
<p>For the Z axis, two homing attempts are performed. The MINI/+ firmware uses the MINDA/SuperPINDA probe readings of their distance to the steel sheet: the homing process passes if the two readings are within +- 0.1mm. If not, the printer will show the message "<strong>Homing Error</strong>". </p>
<p>Error name: Homing Error</p>
<p>Error code: #12301</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The error might indicate an issue with the MINDA/SuperPINDA probe. Its cable can be damaged or disconnected. A mechanical issue on the Z-axis might also trigger this error.</p>
<h4>Testing the MINDA/SuperPINDA probe</h4>
<p>Follow the steps in the following article: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/m-i-n-d-a-superpinda-sensor-testing-mini-mini_134021">M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor testing (MINI/MINI+)</a>.</p>
<h4>Z-axis movement</h4>
<p>Ensure that the Z-axis can move smoothly. With the printer switched off, check the Z-axis and trapezoidal nut assembly: </p>
<ul>
<li>Loosen the bolts on the trapezoidal nuts, and check that both bearings are inserted correctly. The bearings must not protrude from the printed parts. </li>
<li>Check both the printed parts Z-carriage and Z-carriage-back to see if one is positioned lower than the other. The two parts must be at the same height. </li>
<li>Tighten the trapezoid nut evenly on both sides. </li>
<li>Test the Z-axis movement by rotating with two fingers the Z-motor leadscrew. If you feel excessive resistance, slightly loosen the screws that hold the trapezoid nut. </li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/a998282fc871acfe_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>MINDA/SuperPINDA probe visual inspection</h4>
<p>Before testing the MINDA/SuperPINDA probe, you should check that the MINDA/SuperPINDA probe wires are not visibly broken. Also, make sure everything is connected to the Buddy mainboard, inside its case. Loosen the screw securing the cover (circled in the picture below), remove the top cable cover, and flip it open to reveal the board.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/037db455c102f058.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/037db455c102f058-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/037db455c102f058-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/037db455c102f058-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/037db455c102f058-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/037db455c102f058.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Check that all the connectors are secure in their sockets, according to the picture below. Focus on the MINDA/SuperPINDA (yellow arrow). Though unlikely, rough shipping or handling could have shaken the MINDA/SuperPINDA cables loose.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/cbc1d40509cd7ef8_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/cbc1d40509cd7ef8_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/cbc1d40509cd7ef8_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/cbc1d40509cd7ef8_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/cbc1d40509cd7ef8_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/cbc1d40509cd7ef8_painted-1536x1153.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/cbc1d40509cd7ef8_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="tip-callout">In case none of these tests are conclusive, do not hesitate to contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">Customer Support</a> for further assistance. </div>
<h3>Parts replacement guide</h3>
<p>In case you find the MINDA/SuperPINDA probe to be faulty, <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/superpinda/">please order it using our e-shop</a>, then follow the service guide: <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-superpinda-mini-mini_179912">How to replace SuperPINDA (MINI/MINI+)</a>.</p>


Homing Error #12301 (MINI)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your printer an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "<strong>Firmware/printer versions do not match! You are trying to flash FW meant for another revision of the Buddy board</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Unsupported printer version</p>
<p>Error code: #12611</p>
<p>This error is shown if you are trying to flash a version of the firmware that was not meant for the Buddy board.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<div class="note-callout">The Original Prusa MINI/+ in its factory state only accepts official firmware. In order to flash a custom firmware, you need to break the appendix on the Buddy board. See how to do that <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flashing-custom-firmware-mini_14">here</a>.</div>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">Download the firmware and bootloader</a>, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and restart it to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob, and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob (more about this on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>If the issue persists, the problem might be in the USB flash drive. Find any other USB drive in your household, make sure it is formatted to FAT32, copy both firmware files, and repeat the previously described procedure.</p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know, that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


Unsupported printer version #12611 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your printer an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "<strong>Firmware file has invalid size! Check the file on the USB drive and try again</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Invalid FW size on USB</p>
<p>Error code: #12603</p>
<p>This error can happen if the bootloader file is edited, or if the USB is removed from the computer before the end of the file transfer.</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<p><strong>Delete both files from the USB drive</strong>, and <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">download</a> them again. Transfer the files to the USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it. This will prevent the USB drive from being removed too early.</p>
<p><strong>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and restart it</strong> to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob (more about this on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>If the issue persists, the problem might be in the USB flash drive. Find any other USB drive in your household, make sure it is formatted to FAT32, copy both firmware files and <strong>repeat the previously described procedure.</strong></p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know, that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


Invalid FW size on USB #12603 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>If flash the firmware with the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784#alternative-method-older-firmware-release">Alternative Method</a>, you might get the text <strong>"USB drive not connected! Please insert a USB drive with a valid firmware file.".</strong></p>
<p>Error name: USB not connected</p>
<p>Error code: #12602 </p>
<p>This issue happens when there is an error reading the USB drive.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Make sure that the USB drive (FAT32) is connected to the printer, and that the USB port in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/buddy-electronics-wiring-mini_128025">Buddy board</a> is not damaged. If the error persists, try using a new USB drive.</p>


USB not connected #12602 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your printer an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "<strong>Error erasing flash! Restart the printer and try again</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Flash erase error</p>
<p>Error code: #12605</p>
<p>This error is shown when the printer has failed to delete the internal FLASH MEMORY, so the new firmware can't be flashed.</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<p>Check the Buddy board for any damage.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8582%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/f2b28f5cf3910fc4.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Flash erase error #12605 (MINI/MINI+)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8563%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/5eeebf9c855a0257.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Flash erase error #12605 (MINI/MINI+)" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>In case you see no damage, try disconnecting all the cables from the Buddy board except for the LCD and the PSU. Format the USB drive as shown <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-cards-and-usb-drives_112291">SD cards and USB drives</a>.</p>
<p>After that, <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">download the firmware</a> and if necessary the bootloader, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and restart it to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob, and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob (more about this on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


Flash erase error #12605 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your printer an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "<strong>File system error! Try a different USB drive or format the drive with FAT32 filesystem (all data will be lost)</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: File system error</p>
<p>Error code: #12613</p>
<p>The printer shows this error when it can't read the USB drive.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Connect the USB drive to your computer and format it as shown <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-cards-and-usb-drives_112291">here</a>. After that, try <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">flashing the firmware</a> again.</p>


File system error #12613 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your printer an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "<strong>No firmware found in the internal flash! Please flash firmware first!</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: No FW in internal flash</p>
<p>Error code: #12612</p>
<p>This error is shown when there is no valid firmware in the internal Flash memory. This can happen if you restart the printer during the firmware flashing process.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">Download the firmware</a> and if necessary the bootloader, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and restart it to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob (more about this on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>The printer will let you know when the flashing is done. When installing the bootloader along with the firmware, it may take several minutes.</p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know, that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


No FW in internal flash #12612 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your printer an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "<strong>Firmware/printer types do not match. Make sure you have the right firmware file for your printer model</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Unsupported printer type</p>
<p>Error code: #12610</p>
<p>This error is shown when firmware made for another printer is flashed on the MINI/+.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Go to the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">Downloads</a> page. Make sure that you are selecting the MINI+ firmware (if you have the SuperPINDA sensor) or MINI firmware(if you have the M.I.N.D.A.).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/a461b0ec469797de_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Unsupported printer type #12610 (MINI/MINI+)" alt="" width="500" height="317" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Unzip the files, and transfer them to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and restart it to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob (more about this on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>If the issue persists, the problem might be in the USB flash drive. Find any other USB drive in your household, make sure it is formatted to FAT32, copy both firmware files and repeat the previously described procedure.</p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know, that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


Unsupported printer type #12610 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your printer an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "<strong>USB flash drive contains unsupported firmware BBF file</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Unsupported BBF version</p>
<p>Error code: #12614</p>
<p>This error happens when the BBF header is not compatible or has been changed.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">Download the firmware and the bootloader</a>, and transfer them to your USB drive. Do not make any edits to the files other than unzipping them. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and restart it to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob (more about this on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>If the issue persists, the problem might be in the USB flash drive. Find any other USB drive in your household, make sure it is formatted to FAT32, copy both firmware files and repeat the previously described procedure.</p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know, that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


Unsupported BBF version #12614 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>When trying to flash the firmware, the printer shows the error: <strong>"Firmware hash verification failed! Firmware file is damaged. Try downloading and copying it onto the USB drive again."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Hash verification failed</p>
<p>Error code: #12607</p>
<p>This error is shown when the firmware in the USB drive is damaged.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">Download the firmware</a> and if necessary the bootloader, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and restart it to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob (more about this on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">alternative method</a>).</p>
<p>If the issue persists, the problem might be in the USB flash drive. Find any other USB drive in your household, make sure it is formatted to FAT32, copy both firmware files and repeat the previously described procedure.</p>
<p>Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know, that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</p>


Hash verification failed #12607 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI is showing the message: "Emergency stop invoked by G-code (M112)".</p>
<p>Error name: Emergency stop</p>
<p>Error code: #12510</p>
<p>This error message can be triggered during serial printing (e.g. Octoprint) and blocks the printer control. </p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Temporarily disconnect from your printer any external device, reboot the printer, and try printing using a FAT32 formatted USB drive. See if a different error would occur while printing via USB drive, and check the article relative to the new error. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>


Emergency stop #12510 (MINI)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>When trying to install non-official firmware, the screen shows <strong>"Firmware signature verification failed! Only official signed firmware can be flashed."</strong>.</p>
<p>Error name: Signature verification failed</p>
<p>Error code: #12606</p>
<p>The printer has detected the attempt to flash a firmware that does not have the <strong>private key signature</strong> that verifies the firmware as being official.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI/+ in its factory state only accepts official firmware. In order to flash a custom firmware, you need to break the appendix on the Buddy board. See how to do that <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flashing-custom-firmware-mini_14">here</a>.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Note that breaking the appendix will void your warranty.</div>


Signature verification failed #12606 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI/+ displays the message: "<strong>Failed to home the extruder in X-axis, make sure there is no obstacle on X-axis</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Homing error X</p>
<p>Error code: #12304</p>
<p>The error is most likely caused by a bad movement of the print head along the X-axis. </p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>X-axis movement</h4>
<p>Make sure there are no obstructions in the path of the X-axis. For example, there might be a piece of filament stuck around the belt, or on a smooth rod, from a previous print.</p>
<h4>X-axis belt tension</h4>
<p>Check the X-axis belt tension and adjust it, following our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mini-mini_157324">dedicated article on belt adjustment</a>.</p>
<h4>X-end assembly</h4>
<p>Check whether the <strong>X-end</strong> is fully inserted onto the smooth rods. Look sideways on the <strong>X-end</strong> into the <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>inspection hole</strong></span> and ensure that the smooth rod is inserted all the way into the plastic part. Repeat this check for the other X-axis smooth rod. </p>
<div class="note-callout">Some early units may be without inspection holes.</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout">If the rod is not fully visible in the groove, try using more force to push the X-end on the rod. <strong>Do not use a hammer or similar tools</strong> to push the plastic part!</div>
</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/34671496dac70a74_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="450" height="338" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Ensure that <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>the two screws that secure the X-end</strong></span> are not loose. If they are not flush or below flush with the X-end, they obstruct the full X-axis range of motion, possibly causing the error. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/4ef38bd031052e43_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="450" height="338" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>X-axis motor pulley</h4>
<p>The X-axis motor pulley is attached to the X-axis motor shaft. The motor shaft has one flat side. The pulley has two set screws, ensure that one of the two set screws is aligned with the flat part of the motor shaft. Make sure the other set screw is also tightened, not excessively, and that there is a small space between the pulley and the motor. </p>
<div class="warning-callout">Hold the X-axis while dismantling it, or it may fall and cause damage. </div>
<p>To access the X-axis motor pulley, follow these steps: </p>
<ol>
<li><span style="color: #843fa1;"><strong>Loosen the upper M3x25 screw</strong></span>. The <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>inspection-door</strong></span> might come loose, remove it temporarily. <br />
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/d20ab5830b3c9913_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/8a0eba53017be820_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</li>
</ol>
<ol start="2">
<li><strong>Hold the parts with your free hand!</strong> <span style="color: #843fa1;"><strong>Loosen the lower M3x25 screw</strong></span>, and remove the extruder block. </li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/3892e06b64061fc0_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/3d9fe6ccb3b618c13401b2b026c6ec3e_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Homing error X #12304 (MINI/MINI+)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="3">
<li> Loosen <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>the M3x20 screws holding the trapezoid nut</strong></span>. <br /><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/a998282fc871acfe_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="450" height="338" loading="lazy" /></li>
<li><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Hold the parts with your free hand!</strong></span> Loosen the <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>M3x30 screws holding the X-axis block</strong></span>. <br />
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/939ff47b7333486ebf2f60f0f87a3318_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Homing error X #12304 (MINI/MINI+)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/4aeb8042eaa8176bfc7fcedd0679b948_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Homing error X #12304 (MINI/MINI+)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</li>
<li>Move the print head and look into the <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>X-axis pulley inspection hole</strong></span>. Stop when you see a change in the inspection hole when one of the two pulley set screws is aligned with the hole. </li>
<li>Compare the set screw position with the <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>flat part of the motor shaft</strong></span>. <br /><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/6375d0a17cc1287fc771ed161091ebcb_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Homing error X #12304 (MINI/MINI+)" alt="" width="450" height="338" loading="lazy" /></li>
<li>In case of a loose or misaligned set screw, tighten one set screw against the flat part of the motor shaft, and ensure the second set screw is also reasonably tight. Use a 2.0mm Allen key for this step. </li>
<li>Reassemble the printer, by performing the above steps in reverse. </li>
</ol>


Homing error X #12304 (MINI/MINI+)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa MINI/+ displays the message: <strong>"Failed to home the Y-axis, make sure there is no obstacle on Y-axis</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Homing error Y</p>
<p>Error code: #12305 </p>
<p>The error is most likely caused by a bad movement of the Y-carriage along the Y-axis.</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>Y-axis movement</h4>
<p>Make sure there are no obstructions in the path of the Y-axis. For example, there might be a piece of filament stuck around the belt, or on a smooth rod, from a previous print.</p>
<h4>Y-axis belt tension</h4>
<p>Check the Y-axis belt tension and adjust it, following our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mini-mini_157324">dedicated article on belt adjustment</a>.</p>
<h4>Y-axis motor pulley</h4>
<p>The Y-axis motor pulley is attached to the Y-axis motor shaft. The motor shaft has one flat side. The pulley has two set screws, ensure that <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>one of the two set screws is aligned with the flat part of the motor shaft</strong></span>. Make sure the other set screw is also tightened, not excessively, and that there is a small space between the pulley and the motor. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/0cf7e4ce65da5f1edb2290a8382c4528_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Homing error Y #12305 (MINI/MINI+)" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>


Homing error Y #12305 (MINI/MINI+)

4.0.0

<ul>
<li>Improved homing algorithm</li>
<li>Improved dialogue for color change (M600)</li>
<li>Improved Wizard stability</li>
<li>Filament sensor ON/OFF setting kept after a reset</li>
</ul>


4.0.1

<ul>
<li>Chapter 10.12 updated with photos and more details</li>
<li>Improved design</li>
<li>Initial release for Czech, German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish</li>
</ul>


1.01

<ul>
<li>Minor update: Support for an MK3S LCD encoder</li>
</ul>


4.0.2

<ul>
<li>Jerk speeds fixed</li>
</ul>
<p>Contains all features and fixes introduced in the <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v4.0.3" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">previous release,</a> such as:</p>
<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li>Support for an MK3S encoder</li>
<li>Mesh Bed Levelling fixed</li>
<li>Fixed loaded filament information</li>
<li>Automatic filament sensor detection</li>
<li>Improved filament changes (M600)</li>
</ul>


4.0.4

<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect Local (WebUI)</li>
<li>Stop print function fixed</li>
<li>The printer is now locked (except Tune menu) during Remote print via OctoPrint (safety reasons)</li>
<li>Adjustment to Mesh Bed Levelling</li>
<li>The new color scheme for active button</li>
<li>Improved movement near the axis end</li>
<li>Revised file sorting</li>
<li>Adjustments to e-steps</li>
<li>Improved Z-axis self-test</li>
<li>Random screen freezing fixed</li>
<li>New EEPROM implementation</li>
</ul>


4.0.5

<ul>
<li>Updated texts to match the latest firmware</li>
</ul>


1.03

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li>Automatic print pause after an accidental USB drive removal. Resume print option is available after the USB drive is re-inserted.</li>
<li>Printer acoustic signalization - you can choose the level in Settings -&gt; Sound mode</li>
<li>Support for NTP servers for getting the current time (internet connection required)</li>
<li>Filament load/unload procedure adjusted</li>
<li>Preheat function improved</li>
<li>Tune menu extended with "LAN settings", "Version info" and "Sound mode" submenus</li>
<li>File browser improved</li>
<li>Horizontal scrolling text function added</li>
<li>Octoprint screen further improved</li>
<li>Faster print head heat-up process</li>
<li>Fixed bugs and minor improvements (see the full changelog)</li>
</ul>


4.1.0

<ul>
<li><strong>Firmware localized into 7 languages&nbsp;</strong>(English, French, Italian, German, Spanish, Czech, Polish)</li>
<li>New sound volume option</li>
<li>Pause print from USB (M601) fixed</li>
<li>Printer beeping in silent mode fixed</li>
</ul>


4.2.0

<ul>
<li>Random BSOD bug fixed</li>
</ul>


4.2.1

<ul>
<li>Changes related to MINI+ release</li>
</ul>


1.0.7

<ul>
<li>New graphics for Live adjust Z</li>
<li>Added support for PVB material</li>
<li>QR Error codes</li>
<li>Print sheet profiles</li>
<li>New fan management</li>
<li>Improved selftest and wizard</li>
<li>First layer calibration updated</li>
<li>The improved filament change process</li>
<li>More improvements and bug fixes</li>
</ul>


4.3.0

<ul>
<li>X-axis error during Wizard fixed</li>
<li>Safety timer not activated fixed</li>
</ul>


4.3.1

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Upgraded USB drivers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Upgraded Newlib library</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">FatFs library upgrade</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Saving of self-test results</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Fixed bugs</li>
</ul>


4.3.2

<ul>
<li>Support for custom extruders</li>
<li>Thermal regulation for custom extruders</li>
<li>Extended print statistics</li>
<li>Nozzle pressurizing improved</li>
<li>Translations updated</li>
<li>BSOD caused by a broken thermistor fixed</li>
<li>Print timer fixed</li>
</ul>


4.3.3

<ul>
<li>Support for PrusaSlicer 2.4</li>
<li>Time Zones extended</li>
<li>Satin sheet profiles added</li>
</ul>


4.3.4

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

<ul>
<li>Updates related to Printables.com</li>
<li>Several small changes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

1.09

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0

<ul>
<li>Support for Wi-Fi (ESP-01 &amp; ESP-01S)</li>
<li>PrusaLink updated</li>
<li>Network menu updated</li>
<li>Networking improvements</li>
<li>GUI improvements</li>
<li>Selftest improvements</li>
<li>Known issues</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

4.4.0


<ul>
<li>Wi-Fi auto-reconnect fixed</li>



<li>Improved Wi-Fi (ESP) flashing</li>



<li>RTC fixed</li>



<li>Additional hotend protection</li>



<li>UI fixes</li>



<li>New error code URL</li>



<li>Improved bootstrap</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


4.4.1


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Printing speed boost with Input Shaper and Pressure Advance (XL and MINI)</li>



<li>Major updates to network code; Instant Printing feature</li>



<li>Major updates to Prusa Connect and network communication</li>



<li>Introducing a new efficient open-source Binary G-code format</li>



<li>New useful pre-print screen for XL Multi-Tool printers</li>
</ul>


5.1.0


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>Cancel Object (MINI)</li>



<li>Sending crash dumps to Tech support</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.4</li>



<li>Firmware flashing updated</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>



<p></p>


5.1.2


<ul>
<li>Smarter color painting</li>



<li>Improved Color change</li>



<li>Ramping travel moves</li>



<li>SLA material overrides</li>
</ul>


2.7.2


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>


2.7.4


<ul>
<li>Stealth mode</li>



<li>Time Zone settings updated</li>



<li>Bed Level Correction</li>



<li>Revised Control menu</li>



<li>MCU temperature</li>



<li>Improvements by the Prusa community</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.0.0


<ul>
<li>Acceleration limit restored (MK4, MK3.9, MINI)</li>



<li></li>
</ul>


6.0.1


<ul>
<li>Improvements by Prusa community</li>
</ul>


6.0.2


<ul>
<li>Screenshot procedure fix (MINI)</li>
</ul>


6.0.3


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0

6.0.4


<ul>
<li>Support for MK3.9S and MK3.5S printers</li>



<li>Numeric keyboard</li>



<li>Custom names for steel sheet</li>



<li>User-configurable hostname</li>



<li>Binary G-code check</li>



<li>ESP firmware flash during boot (MINI, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.5</li>



<li>Network Status screen</li>



<li>Steel sheet name in footer (MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Powered Z-motors during calibration procedure (MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>Default nozzle diameter set to 0.4 (XL)</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.1.2


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MINI

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