i3 clone died

design for Support/Mesh needed

Can I Use Distance with Marlin 2.X or not?

CTC Prusa i3 Clone YOUTUBE video

big problem with an old Prusa I3 without lcd

MMU1

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical</strong> resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the XY plane, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">To get the best of both worlds, consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Maximum layer height for your nozzle</strong><br />The layer height should be <strong>below 80%</strong> of the <strong>nozzle diameter</strong> (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with very low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or as a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters. </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</div>
<p> </p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, with the exception of the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top part of each model is usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change you make, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well in order to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-300x74.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-600x147.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-768x188.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-800x196.png 800w" alt="" width="709" height="174" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see a little bit of sag of the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that when you’re printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</div>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't really do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">This option was removed in PrusaSlicer 2.6. The new algorithm is much smarter than the previous implementations and it is automatically applied where needed.</div>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, and that is having holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer makes sure it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space for it, an infill pattern is used to fill the void between these inside/outside perimeters. </p>
<p>Enabling <strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate just a single perimeter that works as both inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<p>This feature is automatically disables, if the <strong>Arachne perimeter generator</strong> is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historic reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look very good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances, but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em> Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan. </p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arranged into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<h3>Perimeter generator</h3>
<p>Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.</p>


Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

Infill patterns

<p dir="ltr">The main purpose of infill is to provide internal support for top layers, which would otherwise have to bridge over empty space. Infill also affects the speed of printing, structural strength, filament consumption, and even the look of the printed object.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3>Fill density</h3>
<p>Most models can be printed with 10-15% infill. If the top of the model closes gradually, it can be printed hollow (0% infill), though we generally do not recommend it. If you need the model to be heavier, want more compression resistance or higher stiffness, you can increase the infill. You'll rarely need infill higher than 30%. Finally, you can print the model with 100% infill and the infill pattern will be forced to rectilinear. Keep in mind that 100% infill can have a negative impact on the look of the printed object.</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />
The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of <strong>perimeters (not infill</strong>). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters. That said, infill does help with compression resistance.</div>
<h3>Fill pattern</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicer offers many infill patterns to choose from - check the dedicated <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130"><strong>Infill pattern documentation page</a></strong>.</p>
<h3>Length of the infill anchor</h3>
<p>The infill is usually <strong>connected to the perimeters</strong> with a so-called anchor, which is a <strong>short line</strong> of another (inner) perimeter that turns into an infill line. This makes the infill sturdier and is required by some materials (namely PETG) to stabilize the extrusion flow at the start of an infill line.</p>
<p>The length of the infill anchor value sets how many millimeters of this anchor will connect the infill and the perimeters. If you set this value to 0, the infill will be printed independently on the perimeters. Set a higher value to print the anchor that will continue as the infill itself.</p>
<p>If expressed as a percentage (15%) it will be calculated over the infill extrusion width.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-600x334.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-800x445.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-300x167.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-768x427.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/7a35a3b708029b4e_painted-1536x854.jpeg 1536w" alt=""></p>
<h3>Maximum length of the infill anchor</h3>
<p>This value sets the maximum length of the infill anchor connecting the infill with perimeters.</p>
<p>Set this parameter to 0 to disable anchoring completely.</p>
<h3>Top fill pattern</h3>
<p>You can pick a custom infill pattern that only affects the top visible layer, not adjacent solid layers below.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Bottom fill pattern</h3>
<p>You can pick a custom infill pattern that only affects the bottom visible layer, not adjacent solid layers above.</p>
<h3>Combine infill every X layers</h3>
<p>Different layer heights will be used for infill and for perimeters in order to speed up the print without sacrificing the print quality.<br />
Example: Combine infill every 3 layers, layer height 0.1 mm, infill will be printed at 0.3 mm layer height.</p>
<div class="note-callout">The maximum layer height is limited by your nozzle diameter. If you try to combine infill every 1+ layers with 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.3 mm layer height, no change will actually happen because you cannot print layers bigger than (about) 0.32mm (80% of nozzle diameter).</div>
<div><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-300x169.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-600x337.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-768x432.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/combine_every-01-800x450.png 800w" alt="" width="699" height="393"></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><em>Infill (grey) printed at double the layer height of perimeters (orange)</em></div>
<h3>Only infill where needed</h3>
<p>This option will make infill behave like an internal support structure, only areas that need support will generate an infill pattern below them. If enabled it slows down the G-code generation (due to extra overhang test involved). Furthermore, infill will likely become disconnected from the perimeters in some areas, so use this option with caution.</p>
<div class="note-callout">This option does not take the support <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/support-material_1698#overhang-threshold">overhang threshold</a> setting into account.</div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-300x195.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-600x391.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-768x500.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/infill_only_where_needed-800x521.png 800w" alt="" width="654" height="426"><em>Sphere with Infill only where needed is enabled</em></p>
<h3>Solid Infill every X layers</h3>
<p>This feature allows you to force a solid layer after every given number of layers. This can be useful to increase the strength of the printed part, however other options, such as increasing the number of perimeters or infill percentage are preferred. Another application would be to create separate internal cells in order to increase thermal insulation.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable.</strong></p>
<h3>Fill angle</h3>
<p>Default angle for infill orientation. Cross-hatching will be applied to some infill patterns.</p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Bridges</strong> will be printed using the best direction PrusaSlicer can detect, so this setting does not affect them.</div>
<h3>Solid infill threshold area</h3>
<p>Force solid infill for regions having a smaller area than the specified threshold.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable.</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-300x92.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-600x184.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-768x236.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/solid_infill_threshold-800x246.png 800w" alt=""><em>Solid infill threshold 0 (left), 15 (middle), 100 (right)</em></p>


Infill

Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1S) is a recommended accessory for the Original Prusa SL1S

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade

Original Prusa Enclosure assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK3.9 upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK4 upgrade

Original Prusa MK4 kit assembly

Original Prusa MMU3 Assembly

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit assembly

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Assembled)

Original Prusa SL1 to SL1S SPEED upgrade

Original Prusa XL Single-Tool (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa MINI+ kit assembly

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Assembled)

The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

Original Prusa XL Dual-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa i3 to MMU2S upgrade

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Assembled)

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S to MK3S+ upgrade

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Semi-Assembled)

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer is based on the MSLA printing process. Unlike Original Prusa i3 machines, this printer uses a high-resolution LCD panel and a UV LED to cure thin layers of resin to achieve an unprecedented level of detail.

Original Prusa SL1 kit assembly

The Original Prusa i3 MK3S is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK3 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK1 to MK2 upgrade

Original Prusa XL - beta test

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm to 1.75 mm upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2/S to MMU1 upgrade

The Original Prusa MINI/MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S is a successor to Original Prusa i3 MK2 with small hardware tweaks for easier assembly and improved reliability.

Original Prusa i3 MK2S kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK2S to MK3 upgrade

The Original Prusa i3 MK3 is the successor of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer.

Original Prusa i3 MK3 kit assembly

Original Prusa i3 MK3 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 MMU1 to MK2.5S MMU2S

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK3S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK2.5 to MMU2 v1.01

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5 to MK2.5S upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2.5S upgrade

Assembly manuals

Printables Clubs

Printables

Basic calibration

Advanced calibration

What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

3D models

Material guide

Slicing

Printer maintenance

Prusa Connect & PrusaLink

In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

Print Quality Troubleshooting

Printer troubleshooting

QR Error codes

Print Error Messages

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

Nozzles

Octoprint

Printer simulator

Protective Shields

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

Configuration and profiles

User interface

Input/output

Left toolbar

Top toolbar

Print settings

Filament settings

Printer settings

Advanced features

Multi-material slicing

SLA slicing

Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

Introduction

2. MMU1 disassembly

3. Upgrading to MK2/S and MK2.5S

4. Upgrading to MMU2S

Manual changelog MMU1-MMU2S

<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero.&nbsp;</strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338"></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high.&nbsp;</strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w"></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400"></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet!&nbsp;</strong>For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg"></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg"></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the&nbsp;<strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<p>Plastic parts used on our 3D printers are printed by the same very machines, holding on to the original idea of the <a href="http://reprap.org/">RepRap project</a>. If you want to print replacement parts, upgrades, have your printer in a different color, or make your own modifications it is all available online.</p>
<h3>Downloading printable parts</h3>
<h4>Printables.com</h4>
<p>We have published STL files for every printable part of our printers, as well as printing instructions, to Printable's print depository. Here you can easily browse and view parts by their area of installation using the Printables folders feature.</p>
<p>Check out the <a href="http://www.printables.com/social/16-prusa-research/collections/54487">Printable parts collection on Printables</a> to find the parts you need.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-547x400.jpg 547w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-800x586.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-300x220.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_collections_scaled-768x562.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="293"></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-547x400.jpg 547w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-800x586.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-300x220.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Prusaprinters_printableparts_scaled-768x562.jpg 768w" alt="" width="400" height="293"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Prusa3d.com</h4>
<p>You can find the latest printable parts for all of our 3D printers or printer upgrades at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Prusa i3 Printable parts</a>. Printable parts are divided into two groups:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Complete kits</strong> - which contain a full set of plastic parts for the entire 3D printer. &nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Upgrades</strong> - which contain only the parts for upgrading to the new version of the printer.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<p>Here you can download STL-files for absolutely all plastic parts and <strong>pre-sliced GCODES for all upgrades.</strong></p>
<h3>Settings</h3>
<p>If you decide to generate your G-codes, it is recommended to use:</p>
<ul>
<li>Material: <strong>PETG</strong></li>
<li><strong>0.2 mm layer height QUALITY preset</strong></li>
<li><strong>Infill: 20% GRID</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>The <strong style="color: #4b4c50;">'Fan-shroud'- part,</strong> which directs air from the print-fan to the part, <strong>should be printed in ASA or ABS</strong>, but otherwise with the same settings.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you have printed your own plastic parts, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/postprocessing-of-3d-prints-step-by-step/">check this article</a> for guidance on post-processing.</div>
<h3>Project files (STEP/SCAD)</h3>
<p>We do not provide the actual project-files for our printed parts. Too many different programs being used for that. However, if you are interested in modifying the parts we have made STEP files (in addition to STL files) available on our <a href="http://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">Github</a>, for all parts.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Project files (STEP/SCAD) are only available in the Github branch/tree where they were initially released.</div>
<p>Some parts were designed using OpenSCAD, where SCAD files are the project files you can edit. For that reason, <strong>for all parts designed with OpenSCAD, there are only SCAD files and no STEP-files available.</strong> This also includes metal parts.</p>
<ul>
<li>MK-series: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3</a></li>
<li>MINI: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-MINI/releases">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-MINI/releases</a></li>
<li>SL1: <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-SL1">https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-SL1</a></li>
</ul>
<p>For the MK-series you simply select the branch for the machine you are after and navigate to the file.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-300x187.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-600x375.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-768x480.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch-800x500.png 800w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/github-branch.png" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>The naming of printable parts</h3>
<p>To know the origin of our printable parts, we are using naming which always starts with&nbsp;<strong>an alphabetical letter</strong>&nbsp;and is followed by a&nbsp;<strong>number</strong>:&nbsp;</p>
<ul style="list-style-type: disc;">
<li><strong>C# D#</strong> - MK3S/MK3S+ parts produced in our 3D printing farm, which are sent to our customers with Kits or pre-assembled printers.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>F#</strong> - MINI / MINI+ parts, farm printed.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>M#</strong> - MMU2S parts, farm printed.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>S#</strong> - SL1 / CW1 parts, farm printed.</li>
<li><strong>R#</strong> - Parts that can be found at <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/social/16-prusa-research/collections/54487">Prusa Research profile at PrusaPrinters</a>, <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/">Prusa3D site</a> or our <a href="http://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3">Github</a>. These are the parts you can print yourself.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">
<p>Each letter of the alphabet is only used 9 times. For example, once we reached C9, the next revision was named D1.</p>
</div>


Printable parts for Original Prusa

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3>Skirt</h3>
<p>The skirt is a printed outline of all of the models on the print bed. It's printed before any of the models and its purpose is mainly to <strong>stabilize the flow</strong> of the filament through the nozzle.</p>
<p>The skirt is also useful to <strong>verify the adhesion of the first layer</strong> to the print bed. Since it's printed before the models, you can quickly change the <strong>Live Z adjust</strong> if you see the first layer not sticking properly or being too squished by the nozzle.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-600x316.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-800x421.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-300x158.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-768x404.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-1536x809.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings-2048x1078.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_settings.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="531" height="280"></p>
<h4>Loops (minimum)</h4>
<p>The number of loops of the skirt. If the <strong>Minimal filament extrusion length</strong> parameter is set, the number of loops may be higher than the one configured here.</p>
<p><strong>Set to 0 to disable</strong> the skirt completely.</p>
<h4>Distance from object</h4>
<p>Distance between the skirt and object(s).</p>
<h4>Skirt height</h4>
<p>The number of skirt layers to be printed.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">One-layer tall skirts can be difficult to remove from the print bed. Prusa profiles typically use a three-layers tall skirt for this reason.</div>
<h4>Draft shield</h4>
<p>If enabled it creates a skirt as tall as the tallest object in the scene. This can be used to protect ABS, ASA, and other materials from warping by creating a micro-climate around the printed part and protecting the print from draft/wind.</p>
<h4>Minimal filament extrusion length</h4>
<p>Forces more skirt loops when necessary to ensure the minimum amount of filament set here is extruded before the skirt is finished. For multi extruder machines, this minimum applies to each extruder.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt-300x261.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt-460x400.jpg 460w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt-768x668.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/skirt-689x600.jpg 689w" alt="" width="795" height="692"></p>
<h3>Brim</h3>
<p>Before you consider applying extra adhesion materials onto the bed, consider using the&nbsp;<strong>B</strong><strong>rim</strong>&nbsp;<strong>option</strong>&nbsp;in PrusaSlicer which increases the surface area of the first layer. You can set the brim size manually in&nbsp;<strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>&nbsp;by going into<strong>&nbsp;Print settings - Skirt and brim - Brim</strong>.&nbsp;</p>
<p>You should consider using the brim option when&nbsp;<strong>printing:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Tall objects with a small base</li>
<li>Multiple small objects at once</li>
</ul>
<h4>Brim type</h4>
<p>You can select to print Outer brim only, Inner brim only or both Outer and inner brim.</p>
<h4>Brim width</h4>
<p>The horizontal width of the brim that will be printed around each object on the first layer. Generally, it is advised to use at least a 3 mm brim to increase the adhesion.</p>
<h4>Brim separation gap</h4>
<p>The offset of brim from the printed object for easier brim removal. The offset is applied after the Elephant foot compensation.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-522x400.jpg 522w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-783x600.jpg 783w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-300x230.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-768x588.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview-1536x1176.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_preview.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="478" height="366"></p>
<h3>Brim for individual objects</h3>
<p>You can turn on brim just for some of the objects and customize brim settings for each object separately. This feature is only available in the <span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong><span class="tooltip" data-tooltip="simple-advanced-and-expert-mode_124819">Advanced</span></strong></span> and <span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong><span class="tooltip" data-tooltip="simple-advanced-and-expert-mode_124819">Expert</span></strong></span> modes.</p>
<p>Right-click on a model and select <strong>Add settings - Skirt and brim</strong>. You can then pick which brim settings you wish to adjust for the selected model. These settings will appear in the right panel and override the global brim settings.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-558x400.jpg 558w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-800x574.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-300x215.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-768x551.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-1536x1101.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual-2048x1468.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/brim_individual.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1679" height="1204"></p>


Skirt and Brim

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer lets you schedule a filament change at a certain layer. This can be used to print basic multicolored models. The printer automatically pauses the print as soon as it reads the color change in the G-code (M600 command) and prompts the user to proceed with the filament change.</p>
<ol>
<li>A color change can be inserted from the <strong>Preview</strong>&nbsp;window</li>
<li>Drag the&nbsp;<strong>layer slider</strong>&nbsp;on the right to select the target layer</li>
<li>You can either
<ol>
<li><strong>Left-click</strong> on the orange plus icon to add a color change (random preview color)</li>
<li><strong>Right-click</strong> on the orange plus icon and select&nbsp;<strong>Add color change</strong>. A color picker window will appear allowing you to pick the desired color in order to get a more accurate preview</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>Repeat, you add as many color changes as you like</li>
</ol>
<p>You can&nbsp;<strong>remove</strong> a color change by moving the slider to the target layer and left-clicking on the grey cross icon.</p>
<p>You can&nbsp;<strong>edit</strong> the color change preview color by right-clicking anywhere on the colored bar. Except for the first color, which can be edited by clicking on the colored rectangle next to the filament profile name in the top right corner. The preview colors are there really just to visual the final print, they have no effect on the generated G-code.</p>
<div class="note-callout">A preview is displayed instantly so you’ll see exactly how your model will look with color-change.&nbsp;</div>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that you should use <strong>filaments of the same type</strong>, always mix PLA with PLA, PETG with PETG and so on. Mixing materials of different kinds will most likely lead to a failed print as they don't adhere well to each other.</div>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">The color change doesn't work in combination with sequential printing.</div>
</div>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1-300x190.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1-600x381.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1-768x488.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/color_print-1-800x508.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Color change time estimates</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">When you add one or more color changes, the Platter legend will switch to "Color Print" mode and show time estimates till each change. Alternatively, you can switch to it manually using the select box "View" in the bottom left.</p>
<p dir="ltr">This lets you plan when to check on the printer to proceed with the color change.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-600x339.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-800x452.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-300x170.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-768x434.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-1536x868.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/color_change_estimates-2048x1157.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="475" height="268"></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Automatic color change</h3>
<p>When PrusaSlicer detects the model looks like a logo or a sign, a notification will offer you to automatically add color changes to the correct heights. This feature was proposed by Richard Horne, thank you for the suggestion! It saves you time and removes the guesswork from inserting the color changes at the right height.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-600x208.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-800x278.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-300x104.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-768x267.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif-1536x534.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/automatic_color_change_notif.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="613" height="213"></p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Mute beeper when prompting color change</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">If the estimated color change time happens to be during the night or another inconvenient moment, you can switch your printer’s beeper sound to <em>[Silent]</em>, <em>[Mute]</em> or <em>[once]</em> mode. It is found under <em>Settings</em>, on the LCD-menu.</p>
<h3>Use color change to print pictures</h3>
<div class="embed-container" style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%; height: 0; overflow: hidden; max-width: 100%;"><iframe style="position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%;" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/F0IF5PAH7gs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></div>


Color change

<div class="note-callout">This tool is available from <strong>PrusaSlicer version 2.3.</strong></div>
<div class="note-callout">This option is not available when PrusaSlicer is in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Simple mode</a>.</div>
<h3>What is Ironing and how does it work?</h3>
<p>Ironing smooths flat top surfaces by running a special second infill phase <strong>at the same layer</strong>.</p>
<p>As the hot nozzle travels over the just printed top layer, it flattens any plastic that might have curled up. The nozzle also <strong>extrudes a small amount of filament</strong> to fill in any holes in the top surface. The spacing between individual ironing passes is usually a fraction of the nozzle diameter. That means the nozzle will go over the same spot several times. Ironing is angled at fixed 45 degrees compared to the first phase of normal top infill as this approach produces better results.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_smaller025.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_smaller025-600x388.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_smaller025-800x517.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_smaller025-300x194.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_smaller025-768x496.jpg 768w" alt="" width="1312" height="848"><figcaption>Ironing OFF (left), Ironing ON (right)</figcaption></figure>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_macro_025x.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_macro_025x-600x224.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_macro_025x-800x298.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_macro_025x-300x112.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_macro_025x-768x286.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_macro_025x-1536x573.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_on_off_macro_025x-2048x764.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1842" height="687"><figcaption>Macro comparison of Ironing OFF (left), Ironing ON (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3>Downsides</h3>
<p>The main downside is <strong>increased print time</strong> as the second phase of the top infill is performed with very small spacing between ironing lines. You can see how much print time will be spent on ironing in the preview.</p>
<p>If you're ironing a big surface area, on some machines you might experience <strong>heat creep</strong> and eventually, a clogged hotend because the extrusion is very small and slow during ironing. This might a problem mainly when printing with PLA, because of its low-temperature resistance. The risk is increased during summer heatwaves.</p>
<p>Another downside is that the edges will be a tiny bit fuzzy or less sharp. The ironing toolpath is planned for a small extrusion, but the nozzle is physically still the same size, so some plastic will bleed over the edge.</p>
<h3>When to use ironing</h3>
<p>Ironing is useful for prints with flat top surfaces, like <strong>nameplates, logos, badges, boxes, lids</strong>, etc.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Ironing can also be useful when you want to glue two pieces together and need the surfaces to be as flat as possible so that the gap between them is minimized.</p>
<p><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/when_to_use.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/when_to_use-600x243.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/when_to_use-800x325.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/when_to_use-300x122.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/when_to_use-768x312.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/when_to_use-1536x623.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/when_to_use-2048x831.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="508" height="206"></strong></p>
<p><strong>Ironing is not useful for round objects, figures, and organic shapes</strong> in general. It's also not useful for objects which do have flat areas, but these flat areas are not aligned parallel to the print bed. With that said, ironing will not have a significant negative impact when printing such models, it will just unnecessarily increase the print time.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" title="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/slope_ironing_on_off-1-600x310.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/slope_ironing_on_off-1-800x413.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/slope_ironing_on_off-1-300x155.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/slope_ironing_on_off-1-768x397.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/slope_ironing_on_off-1-1536x793.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/slope_ironing_on_off-1-2048x1057.jpg 2048w" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/slope_ironing_on_off-1.jpg" alt="" width="1845" height="953"><figcaption>Ironing has little to no effect on non-flat surfaces, Ironing Off (left), Ironing On (right)</figcaption></figure>
<div class="tip-callout">Some models can be printed upside down. The bottom layer printed on the build plate will typically be even smoother than an ironed top layer. And you can imprint a texture into the print, depending on the print sheet that you use.</div>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Monotonic infill</strong> is another feature, which improves the quality of top layers. Use it in combination with Ironing to get the best results. Original Prusa profiles have Monotonic infill already set as the default top layer pattern.</div>
</div>
<h3>How to turn Ironing on for all models</h3>
<p>Ironing is not available in the Simple mode, so switch to the Advanced or Expert mode.<br />
Then select <strong>Print settings - Infill - Ironing - Enable Ironing</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/cec79cad146febfc_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/cec79cad146febfc_painted-600x347.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/cec79cad146febfc_painted-800x463.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/cec79cad146febfc_painted-300x174.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/cec79cad146febfc_painted-768x444.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/cec79cad146febfc_painted-1536x889.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="1200" height="695"></p>
<h3>How to turn Ironing on just for the selected model</h3>
<p>First, switch to the Expert mode, ironing for individual models is only enabled in this mode. Right-click on a model and select&nbsp;<strong>Add settings - Ironing</strong>&nbsp;from the context menu. Tick&nbsp;<strong>Enable ironing</strong>, optionally you can also select the rest of the ironing settings in order to customize them on a model per model basis. You can now change the ironing settings for this model using the right panel.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5d47a47307b02d82_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5d47a47307b02d82_painted-600x253.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5d47a47307b02d82_painted-800x338.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5d47a47307b02d82_painted-300x127.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5d47a47307b02d82_painted-768x324.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/5d47a47307b02d82_painted-1536x648.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="1600" height="675"></p>
<p>If you have several <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/copy-paste-instances_1769">Instances</a> of the same object on the build plate and you want to turn on Ironing just for one of them, you first have to right-click the model and pick&nbsp;<em>Set as a separated object</em>&nbsp;from the context menu. Otherwise, you'd turn it on all for all instances, as they share all settings.</p>
<h3>Modifiers - How to turn Ironing on just for selected surfaces</h3>
<p>You can use <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/modifiers_1767#height-range-modifier">Height range modifiers</a> or <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/modifiers_1767#modifier-meshes">Modifier meshes</a> to turn on Ironing just for a part of a model (in the Expert mode).</p>
<h4>Height range modifier</h4>
<p>Because ironing works only on flat areas, it makes sense to use a height range modifier to specify a vertical interval, where ironing will be used.</p>
<ol>
<li>Right-click a model and select&nbsp;<strong>Height range modifier</strong>.</li>
<li>Specify the Start height and Stop height in the right panel</li>
<li>Right-click the cogwheel next to the height range modifier in the right panel</li>
<li>Select <strong>Add settings - Ironing</strong></li>
<li>Tick Enable ironing, you can now toggle ironing on just for this part in the right panel</li>
</ol>
<h4>Modifier mesh</h4>
<ol>
<li>Right-click a model and select Add modifier</li>
<li>You can either use a basic shape (box, cylinder) or use&nbsp;<strong>Load...</strong> to import custom mesh as a modifier</li>
<li>Position the modifier to overlap your desired part of a model</li>
<li>Right-click the cogwheel next to the modifier in the right panel</li>
<li>Select <strong>Add settings - Ironing</strong></li>
<li>Tick Enable ironing, you can now toggle ironing on just for this part in the right panel</li>
</ol>
<p><video autoplay="autoplay" loop="loop" controls="controls" width="925" height="auto"><source src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/modifier_ironing.mp4" type="video/mp4"></video> &nbsp;</p>
<h3>Ironing type</h3>
<h4>All top surfaces</h4>
<p>The nozzle will iron the top layer of each surface (the last layer of each flat area).</p>
<h4>Topmost surface only</h4>
<p>Only the very last layer of the object will be ironed. This means that in the case of an embossed text (oriented parallel to the print bed) only the top of the letters will be ironed, but not the space between the letters.</p>
<figure class="image"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/45598e31401658a0_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/45598e31401658a0_painted-600x338.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/45598e31401658a0_painted-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/45598e31401658a0_painted-300x169.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/45598e31401658a0_painted-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/45598e31401658a0_painted-1536x864.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="1600" height="900"><figcaption>All top surfaces (left), Topmost surface only (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3>All solid surfaces</h3>
<p class="warning-callout">This option is not working properly at the moment.</p>
<p>Every layer will get an ironing pass. An experimental feature meant to be used with 100% infill to create clearer transparent objects.</p>
<h3>Flow rate</h3>
<p>Percent of flow rate relative to the object's normal layer height.</p>
<h3>Spacing between ironing passes</h3>
<p>Distance between individual ironing lines. This value should be smaller than your nozzle diameter. Because of this, the nozzle will pass over the same spot several times.</p>
<h3>Speed</h3>
<p>This option is not grouped with the other Ironing settings. Instead, you'll find it in Print settings - Speed - Ironing. Feel free to experiment with this value, but generally, slower speeds work the best.</p>
<h3>Calibration</h3>
<p>Ironing is very sensitive to accurate extruder calibration. Too little and shiny groves will be visible at the top layer, which will not be ironed. Too much and the excess plastic will be dragged by the nozzle to the edges of the top surface. So calibrating is a matter of trial and error. One may experiment with the ironing flow, speed, and spacing to achieve the best results.</p>
<h3>Different materials</h3>
<p>As far as settings go, they don't really differentiate between various materials. However, ironing does perform slightly differently depending on the filament used.</p>
<p>PLA irons very nicely, however, it is most prone to heat creep (depends on your printer and ambient temperature).</p>
<p>PETG irons fine, but there's an increased risk of extra filament sticking to the nozzle. This plastic might accumulate on the nozzle, get dark as it's overheated, and eventually attach to the print. The same goes for FLEX, but much more pronounced.</p>
<p>ASA irons incredibly well, producing super smooth top surfaces.</p>
<p>When we tried ironing WOOD FILLED filaments, we didn't achieve very good results. But your experience may vary.</p>
<h4>History</h4>
<p>The Ironing idea was first proposed by the user "Neotko" on the Ultimaker community forum. Neotko prototyped "Neosanding" - a smoothing of top surfaces in Simplify3D by running a second infill phase at the same print height with zero or a tiny extrusion rate perpendicularly to the first infill run. The "Neosanding" was later integrated by Ultimaker into their Cura slicer. Kisslicer integrated Ironing with a small twist: The second phase is not perpendicular to the first phase, but at 45 degrees, which Jonathan, the author of Kisslicer validated to produce better results. PrusaSlicer implements Neotko's "Neosanding" at 45 degrees as in Kisslicer.</p>
<p><video autoplay="autoplay" loop="loop" controls="controls" width="925" height="auto"><source src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ironing_toolpath.mov"></video></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>You can see the ironing pass on the right cube</em></p>


Ironing

<p>The&nbsp;<strong>Maximum&nbsp;volumetric&nbsp;speed&nbsp;setting (MVS)</strong> is one of the <strong>most powerful features in PrusaSlicer</strong>. The MVS setting essentially creates a manager for the maximum amount of filament that the slicer will attempt to push through your 3D printer&rsquo;s hotend.</p>
<p>This gives PrusaSlicer users a <strong>huge advantage</strong>. Rather than trying to calculate a range of speeds for combinations of different nozzle sizes, layer heights or extrusion widths, you can simply specify the speeds and settings you desire, then let MVS regulate speeds at slice time when and only if necessary.</p>
<p>Max volumetric speed = Layer Height &times; Extrusion Width &times; Speed</p>
<p>Independent MVS values can be set under both <strong>Print settings</strong> and <strong>Filament settings</strong>. In your print profile, you'll typically have an all-around default value based on your hotend hardware. In filament profiles, you can adjust MVS as needed to account for filament characteristics, e.g. decrease it for FLEX filaments (so you won't have to create a new print profile for flexible filaments, just a filament profile).</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Set MVS to <strong>zero</strong> (0) for <strong>no limit</strong>.</div>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">MVS is sometimes referred to as auto-speed (auto speed).</div>
</div>
<h4>MVS in Print settings</h4>
<p><strong>Print settings - Speed - Max volumetric speed</strong> (Expert mode)</p>
<p>This value sets the overall maximum volumetric speed. Even if you set MVS to a higher value in filament settings, it will never exceed this value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_print.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_print-300x122.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_print-600x244.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_print-768x313.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_print-800x326.png 800w" alt="" width="599" height="244"></p>
<h4>MVS in Filament settings</h4>
<p><strong>Filament settings - Advanced - Max volumetric speed</strong>&nbsp; (Advanced mode)&nbsp;</p>
<p>This value is capped by MVS set in the Print settings, you can, however, override it to a lower value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_filament.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_filament-300x163.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_filament-600x327.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_filament-768x418.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/volumetric_filament-800x436.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">Much of the time, neither linear speeds nor max volumetric speed matter when doing small prints. The nozzle never comes up to full speed and spends most of the time speeding up and slowing back down at lower speeds. It&rsquo;s when you start doing larger parts or moving fast for things like infill that it matters. &ldquo;Obeying the speed limit&rdquo; with the max volumetric speed setting avoids extruder clicks and jams that can spell disaster mid-way through a large print.</div>
<h3>Choosing MVS</h3>
<h4>Filaments</h4>
<p>Different filament materials have different characteristics. Viscocity, stiffness and other factors may greatly reduce effective throughput.</p>
<p>Examples:</p>
<table class="striped" style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<th style="width: 50%; height: 18px;"><strong>Filament</strong></th>
<th style="width: 50%; height: 18px;"><strong>Max volumetric speed (approx.)</strong></th>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">PLA</td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">15</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">ASA/ABS</td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">11</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">PETG</td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">8</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">BVOH/PVA (soluble supports)</td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">4</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">FLEX (TPU/TPE)</td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 18px;">1-2.5</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Hotends</h4>
<p>The overall maximum volumetric speed you should use depends on your hotend. The E3D V6 hotend that ships with the Original Prusa i3 MK3/S is advertised with a rate of 15 mm<sup>3</sup>/s. A safe value that leaves some space for imperfect setup (idler tension, slightly jammed nozzle) of 11.5 mm<sup>3</sup>/s is realistic.</p>
<p>If you need to push more filament, a more powerful hotend will be necessary. The Volcano hotend from E3D increases this to roughly 25 mm<sup>3</sup>/s but does require modding the printer and the firmware. Other hotend designs allow even higher flow rates.</p>
<h4>Nozzle diameter</h4>
<p>Intuitively, it may seem that the nozzle diameter shouldn't affect the maximum amount of plastic that the hotend can heat in a given amount of time. However, <strong>with bigger nozzles, you can slightly increase MVS</strong> due to lower mechanical resistance - basically, it's a bit easier for the filament to get pushed through the nozzle.</p>
<p>And vice-versa, with smaller nozzles, you'll have to decrease MVS a bit.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout">With larger nozzles, consider increasing the nozzle temperature to allow for even bigger MVS. E.g. you can print PLA 10-20 &deg;C hotter than our standard profile when using a 0.6 mm nozzle.</div>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong><strong>Does printing with large diameter nozzle and tall layer height actually save print time?</strong></strong></p>
<p>This is an often-overlooked consequence of MVS. When you use a large diameter nozzle and very tall layer height, e.g. 0.8 mm nozzle and 0.5 mm layer height, <strong>your print speed is indeed going to be capped by MVS</strong>. That is unless you install a more powerful hotend on your printer. If you notice in the preview, that your speed is limited by MVS, you can try increasing the nozzle temperature and raising MVS a bit. However, it may be time to simply lower the layer height, you'll get more detail without increasing the print time because the printer will be able to print faster.</p>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<h3>Preview MVS</h3>
<p>Once you slice your model, you can switch the preview mode to&nbsp;<em>Volumetric flow rate&nbsp;</em>using the select box in the bottom left corner.</p>
<p>On smaller models, you'll notice you're not being capped by MVS at all. Likewise, if you're printing with small layer height, you're most likely not going to be capped by MVS.&nbsp;</p>
<p>On the other hand, when printing bigger models with tall layer heights, you may notice the speed being limited by MVS, especially when printing infill. If the majority of your model is being printed slower due to the MVS limit, consider lowering the layer height, you'll get more detail "for free".</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/preview_volumetric.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/preview_volumetric-300x147.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/preview_volumetric-600x293.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/preview_volumetric-768x375.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/preview_volumetric-800x391.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p style="text-align: right;"><em>Big thanks to <strong>Bob George</strong> for his help on this article</em></p>
</div>


Max volumetric speed

<h3>Welcome to PrusaSlicer documentation (PrusaSlicer manual)</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicer (formerly known as Slic3r Prusa Edition or Slic3r PE) is our own in-house developed slicer software based on the open-source project <a href="https://slic3r.org/"><strong>Slic3r</strong></a>. PrusaSlicer is an open-source, feature-rich, frequently updated tool that contains everything you need to export the perfect print files for (not only) your Original Prusa 3D printer.</p>
<p>PrusaSlicer is available for <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/download-prusaslicer_2220">Windows, Mac and Linux</a></p>
<h3>History</h3>
<p>The Slic3r project was born in 2011 within the RepRap community as an effort to provide the growing 3D printing technology under the leadership of&nbsp;<strong>Alessandro Ranellucci</strong> an open-source slicer. Slic3r spread among users quickly. When Josef Prusa was looking for a leading slicing software for Original Prusa printers the choice fell on Slic3r. It was (and still is) an open-source and very powerful software.&nbsp;</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-300x170.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-600x341.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-768x436.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-800x454.png 800w" alt="" width="421" height="239"><em>Jo and Alessandro in 2012 (<a href="https://youtu.be/Tuxg2L7r1oI">video interview</a>)</em></p>
<p>However, as Prusa Research was growing (very, very, very fast), we needed to be more flexible with the slicing software development. We needed to make changes to the software, and the changes had to be done asap. We also needed to add more features. At this point the co-operation with the detached original Slic3r team was unsustainable. The bottom line is that we decided to establish a fork of the original Slic3r project.</p>
<p>Slic3r Prusa Edition was released in November 2016 – <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition_4650/">read more about the launch here</a>. A dedicated team of full-time Slic3r PE developers was established and new functions were being added rapidly. These changes culminated in May 2019, when we released a new version with a major UI overhaul under a new name - <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/prusaslicer-2-release_30008/">PrusaSlicer 2.0</a>.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Why the name change? First of all, the old name was really confusing. Even in our own materials, we often didn’t include the “PE” suffix, and the community used Slic3r and Slic3r PE pretty much interchangeably. New users could mistakingly download Slic3r and wonder why it looks different from the screenshots in the 3D Printing Handbook and why it’s not configured for their Prusa printer. Speaking about the original Slic3r: with each update, Slic3r PE was moving further and further away from its original code. We’ve rewritten all of the Perl source code into C++ and especially with the 2.0 update, there were so many differences that it seemed appropriate to make the name more distinct.</p>
<p>Of course, it’s still open-source and you’ll find everything on our <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer">GitHub</a>. <strong>And we’re still proud that our slicer is based on the <a href="https://slic3r.org/">original project written by Alessandro Ranellucci</a>!</strong> Both projects now happily coexist and new features are frequently merged between one and another.</p>


General info

<div class="note-callout">Fuzzy skin is only available in PrusaSlicer 2.4 and newer versions.</div>
<div>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will not appear when PrusaSlicer is in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Simple mode</a>.</div>
</div>
<p>The&nbsp;<strong>Fuzzy skin</strong> feature lets you create a rough fiber-like texture on the sides of your models. If enabled, the perimeter will be resampled with a random step size and each new sample point will be shifted inside or outside of the perimeter by a random length limited by the Fuzzy skin thickness. This simple algorithm produces surprisingly nice results suitable for tool handles or just to give the print surface a new interesting look or to hide print imprecisions. You can also use modifiers to apply fuzzy skin only to a portion of your model.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_skin_preview.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_skin_preview-600x392.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_skin_preview-800x523.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_skin_preview-300x196.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_skin_preview-768x502.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_skin_preview-1536x1004.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_skin_preview-2048x1339.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_skin_preview.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2022" height="1322"></p>
<p>You'll find Fuzzy skin settings in <strong>Print settings - Layers and perimeters</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fuzzy_settings.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fuzzy_settings-600x154.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fuzzy_settings-800x205.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fuzzy_settings-300x77.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fuzzy_settings-768x197.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fuzzy_settings.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="351" height="90"></p>
<h3>Fuzzy skin type</h3>
<p>You can select to apply Fuzzy skin only to&nbsp;<strong>External perimeters&nbsp;</strong>or to&nbsp;<strong>All perimeters</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/exernal_only_all.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/exernal_only_all-600x261.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/exernal_only_all-800x349.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/exernal_only_all-300x131.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/exernal_only_all-768x335.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/exernal_only_all-1536x669.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/exernal_only_all.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1981" height="863"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Fuzzy skin type set to External perimeters (left), All perimeters (right)</em></p>
<h3>Fuzzy skin thickness</h3>
<p>The maximum distance that each skin point can be offset (both ways) is measured perpendicular to the perimeter wall.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_thickness_with_preview.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_thickness_with_preview-600x300.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_thickness_with_preview-800x400.png 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_thickness_with_preview-300x150.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_thickness_with_preview-768x384.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_thickness_with_preview-1536x768.png 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_thickness_with_preview-2048x1024.png 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_thickness_with_preview.png 1600w" alt="" width="2022" height="1011"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Fuzzy skin thickness 0.1 mm (left), 0.3 mm (right)</em></p>
<h3>Fuzzy skin point distance</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be split into multiple segments by inserting Fuzzy skin points. Lowering the Fuzzy skin point distance will increase the number of randomly offset points on the perimeter wall.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_point_distance_with_preview.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_point_distance_with_preview-600x287.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_point_distance_with_preview-800x383.png 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_point_distance_with_preview-300x144.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_point_distance_with_preview-768x368.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_point_distance_with_preview-1536x736.png 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_point_distance_with_preview-2048x981.png 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/fuzzy_sking_point_distance_with_preview.png 1600w" alt="" width="2022" height="968"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Fuzzy skin point distance 0.5 mm (left), 1.0 mm (right)</em></p>
<h3>Fuzzy skin modifier</h3>
<p>You can use modifiers to apply fuzzy skin only to a portion of your model.</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Right-click</strong> a model and pick <strong>Add modifier</strong> - [Select modifier type].&nbsp;</li>
<li>Position the modifier so that it overlaps with your model</li>
<li><strong>Right-click</strong> the modifier and choose <strong>Add settings - Fuzzy Skin</strong></li>
<li>In the pop-up window, select which settings you wish to modify</li>
<li>Change <strong>Fuzzy skin</strong> to <strong>External perimeters</strong> or <strong>All Perimeters</strong></li>
<li>Optionally, you can edit other Fuzzy Skin settings as well</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/3f567693bcdb6e6b_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/3f567693bcdb6e6b_painted-600x400.jpeg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/3f567693bcdb6e6b_painted-800x534.jpeg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/3f567693bcdb6e6b_painted-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/3f567693bcdb6e6b_painted-768x513.jpeg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/3f567693bcdb6e6b_painted-1536x1025.jpeg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/3f567693bcdb6e6b_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="1600" height="1068"></p>


Fuzzy skin

<div class="note-callout">This option is not available when PrusaSlicer is in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Simple mode</a>.</div>
<p>When printing multiple objects at once, you can choose to finish them sequentially, one at a time. This can minimize oozing and strings running between the prints. It can also prevent losing multiple half-finished prints if one of the objects detaches from the print bed.</p>
<p>You can turn this feature on by enabling <strong>Print settings - Output options - Complete individual objects</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sequential_printing.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sequential_printing-300x45.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sequential_printing-600x90.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sequential_printing-768x115.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sequential_printing-800x120.png 800w" alt="" width="519" height="78"></p>
<p>Press the <span class="key">E</span> key to see the <strong>order of objects</strong> in the 3D view.</p>
<p>You can change the order by <strong>dragging and dropping</strong> objects in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/object-list_1758">Object list</a>. The top-most object in the Object list will be printed first, and the bottom-most last.</p>
<p>You'll have to check on the printer regularly, with every object there is a chance that the specific part won't stick to the print bed.</p>
<h3>Collisions</h3>
<p>With sequential printing, there is a possibility of <strong>collisions</strong> between the print head and one of the finished prints or between the X-axis and one of the finished prints. PrusaSlicer will try to warn of such cases, but even if you get no warning, you should try to avoid possible collisions as much as possible.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong style="font-size: 14pt;">Print objects from front to back, from left to right, and from lowest to tallest part<br /></strong>to minimize the chance of collision with the extruder and the X-axis.<strong style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></strong></div>
<p>If PrusaSlicer detects a collision, it will visualize it with a red highlight of the overlapping regions.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/collisions.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/collisions-600x326.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/collisions-800x435.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/collisions-300x163.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/collisions-768x418.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/collisions-1536x835.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/collisions-2048x1113.jpg 2048w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/collisions.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="609" height="331"></p>
<p>To help PrusaSlicer detect collisions, specify the <strong>Extruder clearance</strong> settings.</p>
<p><strong>Radius</strong></p>
<p>The radius of the cylindrical clearance around the extruder.&nbsp;</p>
<p><strong>Height</strong></p>
<p>The vertical distance between the tip of the nozzle and the X-axis rods (or the lowest part which may interfere with a finished print).</p>
<p>PrusaSlicer wants&nbsp;<strong>all objects to be below the extruder clearance height except for the last object</strong>, which can be as tall as the printer's max Z.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/split_to_toolbar-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/split_to_toolbar-1-300x215.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/split_to_toolbar-1-558x400.jpg 558w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/split_to_toolbar-1-768x551.jpg 768w" alt="" width="781" height="560"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Visual representation of the default parameter, creating a keep-out zone of 45mm radius and 20mm height around the nozzle (thanks to David Renaud)</em></p>
<p>The collision detection logic is pretty basic and will sometimes prevent you from Exporting printable G-code. It's up to you to take responsibility and increase the height tolerance.</p>
<h4>Example</h4>
<p>Height clearance is 20mm.<br />
The object is 25mm tall.</p>
<p>Objects can be printed sequentially, but the current collision logic does not distinguish between the left scenario (not printable, collision with the X-axis rod), and the right scenario (printable). So you have to change the value manually (height clearance).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/seq.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/seq-600x263.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/seq-800x351.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/seq-300x132.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/seq-768x337.jpg 768w" alt=""></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


Sequential printing

<h3>Insert pause at layer</h3>
<p>Inserting a pause at a certain height can be used to insert magnets, weights or nuts into your prints. When you resume the print, these inserted objects will get covered by the following layers.</p>
<ol>
<li>A pause can be inserted from the <strong>Preview</strong> window</li>
<li>Drag the <strong>layer slider</strong> on the right to select the target layer</li>
<li><strong>Right-click</strong> on the orange plus icon</li>
<li>Select <strong>Insert pause print (M601)</strong>
<ul>
<li>The pause will be inserted <strong>before</strong> the selected layer is being printed</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Insert a short message to be displayed on the printer LCD when the print is paused
<ul>
<li>e.g. “<em>Place bearings in slots and resume printing</em>”</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Confirm the Pause by hitting <strong>OK</strong></li>
</ol>
<p>You can <strong>remove</strong> the pause by moving the slider to the pause layer and left-clicking on the grey cross icon.</p>
<p>You can <strong>edit</strong> the pause message by right-clicking on the grey cross icon.</p>
<div class="note-callout">You need PrusaSlicer 2.2 or newer to access the Insert pause and Insert custom G-code function.</p>
<p>Both of these features <strong>do not</strong> work if you have <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sequential-printing_124589">Sequential printing</a> enabled.</p>
<p>This feature is also not supported in old printer firmwares (on the MK3/S/+ you need at least fw 3.9.1).</p>
</div>
<div class="tip-callout">When you slice the print again with inserted print pauses, you’ll get <strong>time estimates till each pause</strong>. The printer will also signal the pause with a beep.</div>
<div class="warning-callout">When inserting <strong>magnets</strong>, they need to be firmly in their slots. Otherwise, they’ll get stuck to the print head as it passes over them. Either design the slots with a tight tolerance or use a small <strong>drop of super glue</strong> to hold them in place.</div>
<div><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add_pause.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add_pause-300x195.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add_pause-600x390.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add_pause-768x499.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/add_pause-800x519.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3>Insert custom G-code at layer</h3>
<p>Inserting custom G-code can be useful for <strong>advanced users</strong> when creating calibration G-code like a temperature tower.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="warning-callout">"With great power comes great responsibility"<br />
Verify twice that you inserted the right G-codes and that you understand what they do. For example, with some G-codes you could accidentally override the EEPROM values or move the nozzle into the print bed.</div>
<div>
<ol>
<li>A custom G-code can be inserted from the <strong>Preview</strong> window</li>
<li>Drag the <strong>layer slider</strong> on the right to select the target layer</li>
<li><strong>Right-click</strong> on the orange plus icon</li>
<li>Select <strong>Add custom G-code</strong>
<ul>
<li>The custom G-code will be inserted <strong>before</strong> the selected layer is being printed</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Insert the custom G-code into the newly opened window. You can add <strong>several commands at once</strong>, simply press Enter to insert a new line</li>
<li>Confirm by hitting <strong>OK</strong></li>
</ol>
<p>You can <strong>remove</strong> the custom G-code by moving the slider to the target layer and left-clicking on the grey cross icon.</p>
<p>You can <strong>edit</strong> the custom G-code by right-clicking on the grey cross icon.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/insert_custom_gcode.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/insert_custom_gcode-300x195.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/insert_custom_gcode-600x390.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/insert_custom_gcode-768x499.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/insert_custom_gcode-800x519.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<h4>Most commonly used Custom G-code commands</h4>
<p><a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M104.html">M104 - Set Hotend Temperature</a></p>
<p><code class="codesample-inline">M104 S260 ; set the current hotend temperature to 260 degrees</code>&nbsp;</p>
<p>You can use this command to create a temperature tower by changing the hotend temperature at various layers.</p>
<p><a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M109.html">M109 - Wait for Hotend Temperature</a></p>
<p><code class="codesample-inline">M109 S260 ; wait for the hotend to reach 260 degrees before proceeding</code></p>
<p>If the temperature is set with the letter S then M109 waits only when heating. If the temperature is set with the letter R then M109 will also wait for the temperature to go down.</p>
</div>
</div>


Insert pause or custom G-code at layer

<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer lets you define different regions of your model to be printed with a different layer height and automatically smooth the transition between them. This can result in significantly shorter print times with minimal sacrifice to the print quality.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height-300x170.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height-600x341.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height-768x436.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height-800x454.png 800w" alt="">The variable layer height can be set up either <strong>automatically</strong>, <strong>manually</strong> or you can <strong>combine the two workflows together</strong>.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Setting up variable layer height&nbsp;</h3>
<p dir="ltr">First, select a model in the 3D view. Then the variable layer height tool becomes available in the top toolbar. As soon as you activate it a <strong>realtime preview of the contour lines</strong> created by individual layers is displayed. A new window appears in the bottom right corner and a new panel is displayed on the right side of the 3D view.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 49.6227%;">
<p><strong>Adaptive</strong></p>
<p>Calculates the layer profile according to the Quality/Speed setting.</p>
<p><strong>Quality/Speed</strong></p>
<p>By moving this slider you can change the ratio of small and tall layers. Hit the <strong>Adaptive</strong> button to see the new variable layer profile.</p>
<p><strong>Smooth</strong></p>
<p>As the name suggests, this smoothes the layer variable layer height profile. A bigger <strong>radius</strong> will smooth the curve more.&nbsp;<strong>You can press this button repeatedly</strong> to get an even smoother result.</p>
<p><strong>Keep min</strong></p>
<p>When enabled the <strong>smallest layer heights(green</strong>) won't be smoothed and will remain at their minimum value.</p>
<p><strong>Reset</strong></p>
<p>Resets the variable layer height settings (both automatic and manual changes).</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 50.3773%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/automatic_window_upscaled.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/automatic_window_upscaled-300x246.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/automatic_window_upscaled-487x400.png 487w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/automatic_window_upscaled-768x631.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/automatic_window_upscaled-730x600.png 730w" alt="" width="391" height="321"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p dir="ltr">You can manually edit the result of the automatic variable layer height.<br />
You can also skip the automatic step completely and set everything manually.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When you hover the mouse above the variable layer height panel (on the right), the affected part of the model is highlighted in yellow.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Left mouse button <strong>Add detail</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">Right mouse button <strong>Remove detail</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr"><span class="key">Shift</span> + Left mouse button <strong>Reset to base</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr"><span class="key">Shift</span> + Right mouse button <strong>Smoothing</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">Mouse wheel <strong>Increase od decrease the edited area</strong></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that <strong>all instances</strong> of the object <strong>are also affected</strong> by the variable layer height tool.</div>
<div class="note-callout">You may notice a <strong>sharp jump on the bottom</strong> of the blue line - <strong>that’s normal</strong> and it’s a visual representation of the first layer height setting.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height2-300x173.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height2-600x347.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height2-768x444.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/variable_layer_height2-800x462.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>A practical example of variable layer height</em></p>
<h4>What layer height profile should you pick?</h4>
<p>Try to select a profile with a layer height that's close to what the majority of the print will be printed at. You could say that it doesn't really matter, if you move the slider to favor more quality/speed you can get really small layer heights even if you have a really tall layer profile selected. However, the profiles also change other things except for just the layer height - tall layers get wider extrusion, for example. A good "average" layer height profile (e.g. 0.15 mm layer height profile for 0.4 mm nozzle) will most likely also work well for most cases.</p>
<h3>Automatic variable layer height metrics</h3>
<p>We have experimented with various metrics for surface quality. The metrics by <a href="https://tams.informatik.uni-hamburg.de/publications/2017/Adaptive%20Slicing%20for%20the%20FDM%20Process%20Revisited.pdf">Florens Wasserfall et al.</a> implemented in <strong>Slic3r</strong> limits the maximum discretization error (largest Euclidean distance of the stepped surface from the source model).</p>
<p><strong>Cura</strong> limits the maximum distance of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contour_line">contour lines</a> in the XY plane, producing more intuitive results than the metric by Waserfall.</p>
<p>In the end, we have implemented yet another metric, limiting the cross-section area between the stepped surface and the source model. The following graph shows the layer height limit of various metrics depending on the surface slope.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/metric_variable.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/metric_variable-300x264.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/metric_variable-455x400.png 455w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/metric_variable-768x675.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/metric_variable-683x600.png 683w" alt=""></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


Variable layer height function

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<p>Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode, each perimeter loop has to start and end somewhere. This start/endpoint creates a potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. It's also commonly referred to as zits, layer seams, or scars.</p>
<p>This seam will be especially visible if the shape of the object is cylindrical, without any sharp corners.</p>
<p>In order to hide the seam as much as possible, there are several seam placement options available in<br />
<strong>Print settings - Layers and perimeters - Seam position.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a50d89c45c4e19ab_painted.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a50d89c45c4e19ab_painted-600x279.png 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a50d89c45c4e19ab_painted-800x372.png 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a50d89c45c4e19ab_painted-300x140.png 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a50d89c45c4e19ab_painted-768x357.png 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/a50d89c45c4e19ab_painted-1536x714.png 1536w" alt="" width="1600" height="744"></p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-painting_168620">Seam painting tool</a> to have detailed control over the seam placement.</div>
<h3><strong>Nearest (edge)</strong></h3>
<p>Attempts to place the seam on the nearest edge of the current layer. If your model has sharp corners, this will make the seam effectively <strong>invisible</strong>.</p>
<p>To be precise, this will try to choose a concave non-overhang vertex so that the seam is hidden inside of the concave angle. If no concave non-overhang vertices are available, it will choose a convex non-overhang vertex. If none are available, it will choose a non-overhang vertex. The choice among the candidates is operated so that the start point is the nearest to the previous extruder position. So this option will optimize for short travels.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/nearest_aligned.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/nearest_aligned-600x332.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/nearest_aligned-800x443.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/nearest_aligned-300x166.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/nearest_aligned-768x425.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/nearest_aligned-1536x850.jpg 1536w" alt=""></p>
<h3><strong>Aligned</strong></h3>
<p>This will use the same logic as the&nbsp;<strong>Nearest&nbsp;</strong>for finding the candidates, but it will choose the one that is nearest to the start point of the previous layer. This will ensure the seam is mostly aligned throughout the whole object.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/seam_slicer-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/seam_slicer-1-600x350.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/seam_slicer-1-800x466.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/seam_slicer-1-300x175.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/seam_slicer-1-768x448.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/seam_slicer-1-1536x896.jpg 1536w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/seam_slicer-1-2048x1194.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="608" height="355"><em>Random (left) vs Aligned (right) seam position</em></p>
<h3><strong>Random</strong></h3>
<p>This will choose a different point for each layer, making the seam less noticeable at the cost of a less smooth surface (small zits scattered across the surface).</p>
<p>It makes little sense to use Random seam position on models with corners/sharp edges, it's much better to use Nearest or Aligned in such cases. On the other hand, when printing cylindrical shapes without any sharp edges, Random seam position is a viable option.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/random2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/random2-600x301.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/random2-800x401.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/random2-300x150.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/random2-768x385.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/random2-1536x770.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="795" height="399"></p>
<h3><strong>Rear</strong></h3>
<p>Rear works similarly to Aligned, but it will try to position the seam close to max Y (rear of the print bed). It still tries to avoid overhangs and tries to put the seam in the corners.</p>
<h3>How to reduce the visibility of the seam</h3>
<p>With the FFF/FDM technology, it is not possible to entirely eliminate the seam. It will always be somewhat visible. However, with well-tuned settings, it shouldn't be too noticeable.</p>
<p>Settings that affect the visibility of the seam are <strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/linear-advance_2252">Linear Advance</a></strong> and <strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration_2257">Extrusion multiplier calibration</a></strong>. Original Prusa profiles have these settings already tuned, but if you're fine-tuning a custom profile, you can try lowering the extrusion multiplier and calibrating the linear advance value to lower the visibility of the seam.</p>
<p>You can use the&nbsp;<strong>Vase mode</strong> to avoid the seam, but then you'll be limited to using only one perimeter and no infill.</p>


Seam position

<p>Every FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) printer requires a First Layer Calibration, which <strong>sets the vertical "Z" distance between the nozzle and the print surface</strong>. Sometimes this value needs <strong>a slight adjustment</strong> and for this situation, there is an option called "<strong>Live adjust Z"</strong> <em>(as you are mostly tuning it live during the first layers of your print).</em> The reason for adjusting the distance is to mostly <strong>provide better adhesion</strong> of the extruded filament.</p>
<h3><strong>How does it work?</strong></h3>
<p>It is important to know the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>the default value before the First layer calibration starts at zero (0.000) for all printers</li>
<li>to get <strong>closer to the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>counter-clockwise</strong> and further <strong>increase the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.500 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.700...)</li>
<li>to get <strong>further from the print surface</strong>, turn the knob <strong>clockwise</strong> and continue <strong>lowering the negative value</strong> (e.g. -0.700 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.500...)</li>
</ul>
<p>The values of the <em>Live adjust Z</em> are typically in the range of -1.500 to -0.200. Going above zero into the positive values is not possible, this indicates either an issue with the measuring sensor (M.I.N.D.A., P.I.N.D.A., SuperPINDA) or incorrect alignment.</p>
<p>The correctly assembled print head has <strong>the sensor always slightly above the nozzle</strong>, never at an equal level or below the nozzle (see the picture below). <em>The exact position can slightly vary, use the last chapter of the assembly manual of your printer to set the rough distance.</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04.jpeg" alt="" width="718" height="350" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S extruder</em></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (while printing)</h3>
<p>The most common approach is to perform the <em>Live adjust Z</em> during the print. Go to <em>LCD Menu -&gt;</em> <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z.</em></span> This will show the <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z</em></span> value you have set in the First layer calibration. From here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p>The <strong>Original Prusa MK4</strong> and <strong>Original Prusa XL</strong> are equipped with a loadcell, which will calibrate the first layer automatically. In case you would still like to fine-tune it, you can long-press the knob while the first layer is printed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-600x194.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-800x258.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-300x97.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-768x248.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">PRO tip: shortcut from the main screen, while printing the first few layers press and hold the knob for a few seconds to access the <em>Live adjust Z</em> screen.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Adjusting Live adjust Z value while printing is permanent</strong>, not only for the ongoing print! The new value will also remain after you turn OFF the printer.</div>
</div>
<div>In the picture below you can see examples of different <em>Live adjust Z</em> values. If the nozzle is too high from the surface, the filament won't stick properly (left), if the nozzle is too close to the surface, the filament won't be able to "flow out" leading to a potential clog of the nozzle (right).</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" alt="" width="1132" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (before the print)</h3>
<p>You can also change the value while the printer is at rest from <em>LCDMenu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Live adjust Z.</em> You will see the value set previously during the First layer calibration, and from here you can adjust it by rotating the knob.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-600x194.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-800x258.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-300x97.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-768x248.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Example of the MK3S menu</em></p>
<p><strong>The Live adjust Z should be used only to fine-tune the distance</strong>. For example, PETG and other high-temperature materials require to be squished in the surface slightly more as they tend to warp (lift up), compared to the PLA. If you have replaced the sensor or disassembled the print head (extruder) you should run the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> instead.</p>
<div> </div>


Live adjust Z

<p><strong>Standalone PrusaSlicer G-code Viewer</strong>&nbsp;is a lightweight application, which you can use to quickly preview G-codes from all popular slicers. Its behavior is identical to the preview in PrusaSlicer (the same code is used), however, you can load an external G-code file.</p>
<h3>Supported slicers</h3>
<p>We currently parse, and up to some level interpret, G-code from:</p>
<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer</li>
<li>Slic3r and Slic3rPE</li>
<li>CURA</li>
<li>ideaMaker</li>
<li>Simplify3D</li>
<li>Craftware</li>
<li>KISSSlicer</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/gcode_viewer.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/gcode_viewer-600x395.jpg 600w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/gcode_viewer-800x526.jpg 800w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/gcode_viewer-300x197.jpg 300w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/gcode_viewer-768x505.jpg 768w, https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/gcode_viewer-1536x1011.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="1787" height="1176"></p>
<p>PrusaSlicer Standalone G-code Viewer tries hard to estimate the extrusion widths, layer heights, extrusion types, types of moves, layers, etc. from the G-code generated by various slicers. The G-code itself does not contain all the information mentioned above, thus the G-code is usually augmented with slicer specific comments. We try to get as much data as possible, but some parts might still get marked as unknown.</p>
<p>PrusaSlicer version 2.3 and newer augments the G-code with comments ";TYPE:", ";HEIGHT:", ";LAYER_CHANGE", ";COLOR_CHANGE", ";PAUSE_PRINT" and ";CUSTOM_GCODE". G-code generated by older PrusaSlicer which does not contain these new annotations will still be displayed, but the extrusion widths or extrusion types may not be shown reliably.</p>
<p>G-code generated with other slicers will most likely still load correctly, but some features, such as the print time analysis by feature might be unavailable.</p>
<h3>Associate with .gcode file extension</h3>
<p>If you associate the .gcode file extension with the G-code viewer, you'll be able to launch it simply by opening the file (double-clicking on it or pressing Enter). You can do so by enabling <strong>Configuration - Preferences - Associate .gcode files to PrusaSlicer G-code Viewer</strong>.</p>
<p>Alternatively, you associate the file extension using your operating system tools.</p>
<h4>Windows</h4>
<ol>
<li>Right-click any G-code file</li>
<li>Select <strong>Open with - Choose default program...</strong> -&nbsp;<strong>PrusaSlicer G-code Viewer</strong></li>
<li>Click <strong>More</strong> at the bottom</li>
<li>Tick <strong>Always use this app</strong></li>
</ol>
<h4>macOS</h4>
<ol>
<li>Select any G-code file in the Finder and choose <strong>File &gt; Get Info</strong></li>
<li>In the Open With section, select <strong>PrusaSlicer G-code Viewer</strong></li>
<li>Click <strong>Change All</strong> and confirm</li>
</ol>
<h4>Ubuntu</h4>
<ol>
<li>Select any G-code file</li>
<li>Right-click the file and select <strong>Properties</strong></li>
<li>Select the <strong>Open With</strong> tab</li>
<li>Select <strong>PrusaSlicer G-code Viewer</strong> and click <strong>Set as default</strong>.</li>
</ol>
<p>The process is similar on other Linux distributions.</p>
<h3>Features</h3>
<p>The stand-alone G-Code Viewer shows names of used Printer/Print settings/Filament.</p>
<p>Once the final G-code is available after slicing, a new horizontal slider shows up, limiting visualization of extrusions and travel by time thus allowing simulation of the print in time. By default the new horizontal slider limits visualization of the last layer selected by the vertical toolbar. Alternatively the horizontal slider limits the extrusions in all layers selected by the vertical slider. In the first case, if the horizontal slider limits visibility of the top layer, then the other layers below are rendered in a gray color. We borrowed this visualization strategy from the Craftware user interface as Cura did.</p>
<p>The legend newly shows the print time and the print time fraction per feature (perimeter, infill etc.), and the legend labels serve as buttons to show / hide the particular extrusion time. The print time estimate is available in both the G-code preview after slicing and in the stand-alone G-code viewer.</p>
<h4>Multiple instances</h4>
<p>One can start as many PrusaSlicer G-code Viewers as he wishes either by opening a G-code from the "File-&gt;G-code preview" menu, by starting the G-code viewer application, or by double-clicking on a G-code file in a File Explorer/Finder.</p>
<h3>How it works</h3>
<p>From the technical point of view, the stand-alone G-code viewer is a PrusaSlicer in disguise. The stand-alone G-code viewer is started as a new PrusaSlicer process. The way how the G-code viewer process is started is platform specific:</p>
<h4><strong>Windows</strong></h4>
<p>The PrusaSlicer.dll contains all the code while the prusa-slicer.exe, prusa-slicer-console.exe and the new prusa-gcodeviewer.exe wrappers just load PrusaSlicer.dll with the proper parameters.</p>
<h4><strong>OSX</strong></h4>
<p>The application distribution format supports a single binary, which in our case is PrusaSlicer.app/Contents/MacOS/PrusaSlicer. For command-line usage, this binary may be symlinked to prusa-gocdeviewer to start in a G-code viewer mode. Starting new instances of PrusaSlicer does not quite fit the OSX system, as the Finder only expects a single instance of a GUI application to be running. Thus when drag &amp; dropping onto a dock icon of PrusaSlicer resp. G-code viewer, the file is sent to the first instance of PrusaSlicer resp. G-code viewer.</p>
<h4><strong>Linux</strong></h4>
<p>We support two binary distributions: AppImage and .tar.bz2. The .tar.bz2 format contains a new prusa-gcodeviewer starter script, while the AppImage may be symlinked to prusa-gcodeviewer to start the G-code viewer. The AppImage works by mounting the zipped filesystem image embedded inside the AppImage file and starting the application from there. It is not recommended to start prusa-gcodeviewer from an already mounted AppImage, as the AppImage will be unmounted when the PrusaSlicer that mounted it closes. When the user starts a G-code viewer from an AppImage PrusaSlicer application, another AppImage is mounted by the G-code viewer, which means the PrusaSlicer binary is being loaded into RAM the second time. Therefore if one is low on RAM, it is recommended to use the .tar.bz2 distribution instead of the AppImage until the AppImage is improved to support multiple processes running from a single mounted AppImage.</p>


PrusaSlicer G-code viewer

<ul>
<li>proper initial version</li>
<li>added ColorPrint MM</li>
<li>tested filaments</li>
<li>troubleshooting</li>
</ul>


<ul>
<li>Preheat error improved</li>
<li>Improved temperature regulation</li>
<li>Remaining time estimation</li>
<li>Adjustable beeper notifications</li>
<li>Incomplete file check updated</li>
<li>G-code fixes (M27, M110, M115)</li>
</ul>


3.2.3

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MMU1

Downloads

Firmware 3.2.3

Drivers & Apps 2.6.0

Handbook 1.0

How to

Assembly Instructions

Original Prusa i3 MK2/S to MMU1 upgrade

Original Prusa i3 MK2 MMU1 to MK2.5S MMU2S

Service Manuals

Creating MMU models: Export model from Fusion 360

Colour bleeding

G-code preparation for MMU1

General troubleshooting MMU1

How to trim PTFE tube - Multi Material

G-code preparation for MMU2S

Splitting STL with single compact part

Multi Material Post Processor Troubleshooting

Multiplexer

Filament pulleys MMU1

Unable to unload filament MMU1

Categories

Calibration (6)

About your printer (26)

Using the printer (38)

Troubleshooting (16)

PrusaSlicer (137)

Articles