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<p>The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.</p>
<p>The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the <em>LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration</em>. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">As <strong>each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness</strong> you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<p>With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. <strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero.&nbsp;</strong>The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, <strong>check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value.&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338"></p>
<p>The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, <strong>or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much.</strong> It is therefore <strong>important to get this right.</strong></p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.</p>
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</strong></div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
<p><strong>You want the line flattened, but not squished.</strong> On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any <strong>gaps between the lines (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">left picture</span>), which means it is too high.&nbsp;</strong>In that case, the value will be too close to zero</p>
<h4>Too low</h4>
<p>If the nozzle is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have <strong>ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low</strong> and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.</p>
<h4>Just right</h4>
<p>A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. <strong>However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.</strong></p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w"></p>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">center picture</span>), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400"></p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet!&nbsp;</strong>For more information, please see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
<p>The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if <strong>it is set too low (<span style="color: #e03e2d;">right picture</span>) the filament can start curling up</strong> around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.</p>
<p>If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.</p>
<p><img title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg"></p>
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
<p>A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.</p>
<p><img title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg"></p>
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
<p>Generally, the&nbsp;<strong>first layer calibration</strong> should be performed every time there is a <strong>major change in the assembly.</strong> This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. <strong>If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</strong></li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<h3>Welcome to PrusaSlicer documentation (PrusaSlicer manual)</h3>
<p>PrusaSlicer (formerly known as Slic3r Prusa Edition or Slic3r PE) is our own in-house developed slicer software based on the open-source project <a href="https://slic3r.org/"><strong>Slic3r</strong></a>. PrusaSlicer is an open-source, feature-rich, frequently updated tool that contains everything you need to export the perfect print files for (not only) your Original Prusa 3D printer.</p>
<p>PrusaSlicer is available for <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/download-prusaslicer_2220">Windows, Mac and Linux</a></p>
<h3>History</h3>
<p>The Slic3r project was born in 2011 within the RepRap community as an effort to provide the growing 3D printing technology under the leadership of&nbsp;<strong>Alessandro Ranellucci</strong> an open-source slicer. Slic3r spread among users quickly. When Josef Prusa was looking for a leading slicing software for Original Prusa printers the choice fell on Slic3r. It was (and still is) an open-source and very powerful software.&nbsp;</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-300x170.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-600x341.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-768x436.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/jo_and_allesandro-800x454.png 800w" alt="" width="421" height="239"><em>Jo and Alessandro in 2012 (<a href="https://youtu.be/Tuxg2L7r1oI">video interview</a>)</em></p>
<p>However, as Prusa Research was growing (very, very, very fast), we needed to be more flexible with the slicing software development. We needed to make changes to the software, and the changes had to be done asap. We also needed to add more features. At this point the co-operation with the detached original Slic3r team was unsustainable. The bottom line is that we decided to establish a fork of the original Slic3r project.</p>
<p>Slic3r Prusa Edition was released in November 2016 – <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition_4650/">read more about the launch here</a>. A dedicated team of full-time Slic3r PE developers was established and new functions were being added rapidly. These changes culminated in May 2019, when we released a new version with a major UI overhaul under a new name - <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/prusaslicer-2-release_30008/">PrusaSlicer 2.0</a>.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Why the name change? First of all, the old name was really confusing. Even in our own materials, we often didn’t include the “PE” suffix, and the community used Slic3r and Slic3r PE pretty much interchangeably. New users could mistakingly download Slic3r and wonder why it looks different from the screenshots in the 3D Printing Handbook and why it’s not configured for their Prusa printer. Speaking about the original Slic3r: with each update, Slic3r PE was moving further and further away from its original code. We’ve rewritten all of the Perl source code into C++ and especially with the 2.0 update, there were so many differences that it seemed appropriate to make the name more distinct.</p>
<p>Of course, it’s still open-source and you’ll find everything on our <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer">GitHub</a>. <strong>And we’re still proud that our slicer is based on the <a href="https://slic3r.org/">original project written by Alessandro Ranellucci</a>!</strong> Both projects now happily coexist and new features are frequently merged between one and another.</p>


General info

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary.&nbsp;</p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247"></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only.&nbsp;</p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt=""><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The&nbsp;<strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0).&nbsp;</p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


Support material

<div><strong><img style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical</strong> resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the XY plane, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">To get the best of both worlds, consider using the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</div>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Maximum layer height for your nozzle</strong><br />
The layer height should be <strong>below 80%</strong> of the <strong>nozzle diameter</strong> (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with very low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or as a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters.&nbsp;</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>Increasing model strength</strong><br />
The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, with the exception of the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt=""></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top part of each model is usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change you make, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well in order to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-300x74.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-600x147.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-768x188.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_bottom_layers-800x196.png 800w" alt="" width="709" height="174"></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see a little bit of sag of the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that when you’re printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</div>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't really do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, and that is having holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer makes sure it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">This feature is currently still affecting the G-code generation even when off and can produce unexpected G-code. This is a known issue and we are working on a fix.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt=""></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality.&nbsp;</p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879"></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space for it, an infill pattern is used to fill the void between these inside/outside perimeters.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Enabling&nbsp;<strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate just a single perimeter that works as both inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historic reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look very good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances, but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>&nbsp;Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arranged into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


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