Z Axis Homing / self test failure

Is the Nextruder hot end design choice a mistake?

Shimpent (not) included?...

Bye bye, Prusa

Removing Filament after a runout

VAT (付加価値税) および通関手数料

<p>すべてのFFF(Fused Filament Fabrication)プリンターには、<strong>ノズルとプリント面の間の垂直方向の距離"Z"を設定する第1層キャリブレーションが必要です</strong>。 この値を<strong>わずかに調整する必要がある</strong>場面があります。このとき、「<strong>Live adjust Z</strong>」と呼ばれるオプションを使うと便利です <em>（最初のレイヤーをプリント中に隙間を調整したいことがよくあるために設けられた機能です）</em>。 距離を微調整する理由は、主に押し出されたフィラメントの<strong>より良い接着を得る</strong>ためです。</p>
<h3><strong>使い方</strong></h3>
<p>以下のことを知っておくことが重要です:</p>
<ul>
<li>すべてのプリンターの第1層のキャリブレーションする前のデフォルト値は、ゼロ（0.000）から始まります</li>
<li><strong>ノズルをプリント面に近づける</strong>には、ノブを<strong>反時計回り</strong>に回し、<strong>マイナス値を大きくします</strong>（例：-0.500 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.700 ...）</li>
<li><strong>ノズルをプリント面から離す</strong>には、ノブを<strong>時計回り</strong>に回し、<strong>マイナス値を減らして</strong>いきます（例：-0.700 =&gt; -0.600 =&gt; -0.500 ...）</li>
</ul>
<p><em>Live adjust Z</em>の値は、通常-1.500〜-0.200の範囲です。 ゼロを超えてプラスの値になることはできません。この範囲にない場合は、測定センサー（M.I.N.D.A.、P.I.N.D.A.、SuperPINDA）に問題があるか、センサーの取付け高さが正しくないことが考えられます。</p>
<p>正しく組み立てられた<strong>プリントヘッドのセンサーは、常にノズルの少し上にあり</strong>、同じレベルやノズルの下にはありません（下の写真を参照）。 <em>正確な位置はわずかに異なる場合があります。おおよその距離を設定するには、プリンタの組み立てマニュアルの最後の章を使用してください。</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XYZ-Calibration-MK3-and-MK3S-04.jpeg" alt="" width="718" height="350" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>MK3Sエクストルーダーの例</em></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (プリント中の調整)</h3>
<p>最も一般的な方法は、プリント中に<em>Live adjust Z</em>を実行することです。 <em>LCD Menu -&gt;</em> <span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z.</em></span>。この操作で、第1層のキャリブレーションで設定した<span style="color: #000000;" data-hd-color="#000000" data-hd-highlight=""><em>Live adjust Z</em></span>値が表示されます。 ここから、ノブを回して微調整できます。</p>
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4</strong> と <strong>Original Prusa XL</strong> は、ロードセルを搭載しており、ファーストレイヤーキャリブレーションを自動的に行います。微調整をしたい場合は、ファーストレイヤーのプリント中にのぶを長押ししてください。</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-600x194.jpg 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-800x258.jpg 800w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-300x97.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1-768x248.jpg 768w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-1-1.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194" loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>MK3Sメニューの例</em></p>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">PROのヒント: メイン画面からショートカット。最初の数レイヤーをプリントしているときに、ノブを数秒間押し続けると、<em>Live adjust Z</em>画面に飛びます。</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout">実行中のプリントだけでなく、<strong>プリント中に微調整したLive adjust Z値は、持続的です</strong>！ プリンタの電源を切った後も、変更後の新しい値が残ります。</div>
</div>
<div>下の写真は、さまざまな<em>Live adjust Z</em>値の例です。 ノズルが表面から離れすぎると、フィラメントが適切にくっつきません(左)。逆にノズルが表面に近すぎると、フィラメントが「流出」できず、ノズルが詰まる可能性があります(右)。</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" alt="" width="1132" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Live Adjust Z (プリント前)</h3>
<p> <em>LCDMenu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Live adjust Z</em>から、プリンターが止まっていいるときに値を変更することもできます。1層目のキャリブレーションで設定された値が表示され、ここからノブを回して調整できます。</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/2022/05/uploads/Live_adjust-z-2-600x194.jpg 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-800x258.jpg 800w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-300x97.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2-768x248.jpg 768w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Live-adjust-z-2.jpg 1600w" width="600" height="194"  loading="lazy" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>MK3Sメニューの例</em></p>
<p><strong> Live adjust Zは、隙間を微調整するためだけに使用してください</strong>。 たとえば、PETGやその他の高温材料は、PLAと比較して、反り（浮き上がる）傾向があるため、表面をわずかに押しつぶす必要があります。 センサーを交換した場合、またはプリントヘッド（エクストルーダー）を分解した場合は、代わりに <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">1層目のキャリブレーション (i3)</a> を実行する必要があります。</p>
<div> </div>


Live adjust Z (Z微調整)

<h3>キットや組立済プリンタオーナー割引を受けるにはどうしたらよいですか?</h3>
<p>弊社ホームページに記載されている通りです。<a href="https://www.prusa3d.com">Prusa3D</a> 組み立て式 i3 MK3S+ プリンターをご購入いただいた場合、以後5回分の 同<strong>組み立て式 i3 MK3S+ プリンター</strong> と対象フィラメントが年間30本、10％の割引価格でご購入いただけます <strong>MK4 には適用しません</strong> 。 プリンターをキットで購入される場合、対象のフィラメントを年間30本まで5％割引でご購入いただけます。どちらの場合も、最初のキットまたはプリンターが出荷されると同時に、お客様のアカウントで割引が自動的に有効になります。</p>
<h3>プリンター用フレームにJoのサインをもらうことはできますか?</h3>
<p>もちろん可能ですが、出荷が1ヶ月以上遅れてしまう可能性があることをご了承ください。彼は最近とても忙しいためすぐにサインをできない場合もございます。もしそれでもよろしければ、メールやライブチャットでサインをお願いしてみてはいかがでしょうか。</p>
<h3>プリンターの寸法は？</h3>
<p>寸法は (W×L×H または X×Y×Z):</p>
<ul>
<li>組立済 <strong>Mini</strong> プリンタ 12.6 × 13 × 15 inch / 320 × 330 × 380 mm, 5 kg</li>
<li>Mini プリント範囲: 7×7×7 inch / 180 × 180 × 180 mm</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>組立済 <strong>SL1</strong> プリンタ 8.7 × 9.45 × 16.3 inch / 220 × 240 × 415 mm, 11 kg</li>
<li>SL1 プリント範囲: 4.7 × 2.6 × 5.9 inch / 120 × 68 × 150 mm</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>組立済 <strong>i3</strong> (MK2/3) プリンタ本体 16.5 × 16.5 × 15 inches / 420 × 420 × 380 mm, 7 kg</li>
<li>MK3/S プリント範囲: 9.8 × 8.2 × 8.2 inches / 250 × 210 × 210 mm</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">miniやi3プリンターは、使用時にある程度のスペースが必要であることを念頭に置いてください。ヒートベッドがフットプリントの外に移動するため、特に前後にスペースをもってください。19.7 × 21.5 × 21.5 inches / 500 × 550 × 450 mm (Mini 400 × 450 × 450 mm) スプールとMMUは含みません。</div>
<div class="tip-callout">エンクロージャーを作る場合は、さらに縦横にスペースを確保し、アクセスや操作性を向上させることが可能です。MMUには、高さ 150 mm / 6 in を加え、 <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/spool-placement_112035">5本のスプール設置場所</a> を考えてください (後ろか上)。</div>
<h3>Original Prusa の印刷精度・公差は?</h3>
<p>当社のテストによると、よく組み立てられた Original Prusa プリンタの精度公差は、Z軸で 0.1 mm、XとYで 0.3 mm です。射出率のキャリブレーションやエクストルーダー直線性補正などの追加のキャリブレーションを行った後、全軸で0.05mm程度に抑えることが可能です。</p>
<p>ただし、素材も関係していて、冷却している間に収縮したり、直径が不均一な低品質のフィラメントでは、押し出しにムラが出るので注意が必要です。また、3Dプリントのためのモデルの最適化 (オーバーハングなど) も重要です。当社のプリンターは、直径 0.4 mm の標準 / 純正ノズルと比較して、より精密な 0.25 mm ノズルでもテストされています。 </p>
<div class="tip-callout"><a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/troubleshooting/dimension-errors">この記事</a> では FDM印刷の精度をより詳細に研究しています。</div>
<h3>Original Prusa で作業するときに必要な道具は何ですか?</h3>
<p>必要な工具 (ペンチ、ドライバー、六角レンチ...) はすべてパッケージに含まれています。他に何が必要なのか気になる方は、以下のような便利なものをリストアップしています。:</p>
<ul>
<li>3.5inch サイドカッター / フラッシュカッタープライヤー</li>
<li>白の油性マジック</li>
<li>圧縮空気</li>
<li>IPA 91% 大ボトル (シートクリーニング用)</li>
<li>アセトン (平滑シートのみ)</li>
</ul>
<h3>プリンターの寿命はどのくらいですか?</h3>
<p>当社のテストによると、プリンターの平均メンテナンス間隔は約800プリント時間です。ノズルを交換すれば、何百時間もプリントを続けることができます。</p>
<div class="note-callout">理想的な気温は 20 - 30 °C (68 - 86 °F) 、理想的な湿度は 25 % です。</div>
<h3>PRUSAプリンターの消費電力はどのくらいですか?</h3>
<p>26 °C (室温) で測定した平均消費電力は、汎用 PLA 印刷時で 80W、汎用 ABS 印刷時で 120W でした。</p></p>


FAQ - よくある質問

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="399" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>ABS</strong> は 高い強度と耐熱性を持っており、<strong>機械的に負荷がかかる部品のプリントに適しています。</strong><strong>アセトン</strong>で表面を平滑にすることができます。主な欠点は、大きく反りやすい点と、有毒なガスが出ることです。</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>推奨するノズル温度:</strong> 255 °C&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>推奨するベッド温度:</strong> 100 °C, プリントするオブジェクトの大きさに応じて、ベッドの温度を80～110℃の間で設定できます（プリントするオブジェクトが大きい場合は、温度を高めにしてください）。</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>ヒートベッド: スティックのりと、スムースシートまたはパウダーコートPEIシートを使用します。</strong></div>
<h3>説明</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/asa-abs/">ABS</a><strong>ABS</strong>（Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene）は、基本的にASAの前身となる素材です。ABSは一般的に、安価で丈夫な機械部品（レゴブロック、自動車部品、携帯電話部品など）に使用されています。この材料は<strong>粘り気があり、温度にも強いので、</strong>エンジニアリング部品などに適しています。<strong>ASA</strong>と比較すると、耐紫外線性がやや劣り、プリント時の反りや臭いが大きくなります。屋外で使用するABS部品は、経年変化で黄色っぽくなり、もろくなるので注意が必要です。</p>
<div class="warning-callout">ABSのプリントを成功させるには、特殊な条件が必要です。この材料からは、健康に害を及ぼす可能性のあるガスや物質が発生するため、十分に換気された部屋でプリントを行ってください。ただし、換気をする際には、プリントオブジェクトの周囲から風があたらないようにしてください。オブジェクトに対して悪影響を与えます。</div>
<p>対応する素材特性の比較は</p>
<p> <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>メリット</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>デメリット</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ 高い粘着性 &amp; 機械的耐久性</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ オブジェクトが反りやすい</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ 高い耐熱性</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ プリンタエンクロージャーが必要</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ 後処理が容易</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ 危険性のあるガスの発生 (スチレン)</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ アセトンによる平滑化、接着が可能</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>最適な使い方</h3>
<p>ABSの最適な用途は、優れた耐熱性と機械的耐久性を必要とする安価な技術部品や、アセトンスムージングが必要な部品をプリントすることです。</p>
<h3><strong>プリントを成功させるためのポイント</strong></h3>
<p><strong>高い周囲温度を保つようにしてください。</strong></p>
<p>ベッドは<strong>少なくとも100℃まで加熱する必要があり、</strong>プリンタはより高い周囲温度のエンクロージャー内部に設置する必要があります。</p>
<div class="tip-callout">当社のeshopからもご購入いただけます。 <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/">Original Prusa Enclosure</a> </p>
<p>または、こちらもぜひ参照ください。 <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/">make your own enclosure</a>.</p></div>
<p>もし、エンクロージャーがない場合は、<strong>PrusaSlicer</strong>でスカートの値をできるだけ高く設定するという方法が簡単です。これにより、モデルの温度が少し上がり、反りを軽減することができます。筐体内でプリントすると、<a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/fan-shroud-bl-mk3s-mmu2s-mk2-5s/">ファンシュラウド</a>や他のプラスチックパーツが変形する可能性があります。これは、プリンタの機能に影響を与える可能性があります。万が一、プラスチックパーツが変形しやすい場合、より耐熱性の高い素材からプリントすることをお勧めします。例えば <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812"><strong>Prusament PC Blend</strong></a>です。</p>
<p><strong>熱収縮</strong></p>
<p>ABSでプリントしたパーツは、<strong>クールダウン後に若干収縮する傾向があります</strong> ので、注意が必要です。テスト用オブジェクトをプリントし、ソースモデルと比較することをお勧めします。この材料の収縮率は1～2％程度です。</p>
<p><strong>プリントオブジェクトの取り外し</strong></p>
<p>表面積の大きいプリントを剥がすときは、部品とシートを十分に冷やすことが非常に重要です。<strong>ヘラなどで補助してください。</strong>シートを曲げたり、プリントを剥がすときは、PEIシートが破れることがあるので、慎重に行ってください。</p>
<p><strong>HIPSを活用したプリント</strong></p>
<p>もし、<a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-upgrade-kit-for-mk2-5-mk3s-org/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">MMU2S</strong></a>でプリントする場合、サポート材に<a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/hips_167118">HIPS</a>を使うことができます。この材料はABSと同様の設定でプリントでき、リモネンで簡単に溶解することができます。</p>
<p><strong>化学的な平滑処理</strong></p>
<p>ABSは、ASAと同様、表面処理にサンディングペーパーが活用できます。水研ぎや、アセトンガスで表面の平滑化を行えます。（詳しくは<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">ケミカルスムージング</a>の記事でご確認ください）。</p>
<h3>サンプルプリント</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 319px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-600x338.jpg 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-800x450.jpg 800w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-300x169.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-768x432.jpg 768w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-1536x864.jpg 1536w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/484b5fafdee3b4da-2048x1152.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1417"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 301px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-533x400.jpg 533w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-800x600.jpg 800w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-300x225.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-768x576.jpg 768w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/bf037464331666f0-2048x1536.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="2520" height="1890"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Lego bricks</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Acetone smoothed model</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225" /></strong></div>
<h3><strong>基本的な情報</strong></h3>
<div><strong>PLA</strong>は、<strong>最も簡単にプリントできる材料</strong>の一つです。安価で、初心者に適しています。通常、高い機械的耐性、化学的耐性、温度耐性を必要としない詳細なモデル、フィギュア、迅速なプロトタイプのプリントに使用されます。</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>推奨ノズル温度:</strong>&nbsp;ファーストレイヤー215 &deg;C, 以降のレイヤーは210 &deg;C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>推奨ベッド温度:</strong> 60 &deg;C</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>ヒートベッド:</strong>&nbsp;スムースPEIシートに、最も優れた接着性を発揮します。</div>
<h3>概要</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-pla/">PLA</a>（ポリ乳酸）は、生物学的に分解可能な、植物由来のポリエステルです。PLAを使えば、小さくて細かいモデルも、プリントボリュームのほとんどを埋め尽くす大きなオブジェクトもプリントすることができます。他のフィラメントとは異なり、PLAは大きな反りを生じにくいという特徴があります。コンセプト、プロトタイプ、簡単な玩具、ジュエリー、彫像など、迅速なプロトタイピングや素敵な低コストモデルの作成に向いています。技術的な用途や屋外での使用には適していません。高温に耐えられない（60℃以上で柔らかくなり変形する）、紫外線で劣化する、機械的耐性も劣る（衝撃で層ごと、あるいは破片に割れる）などのデメリットもあります。また、層間接着性は他の素材に比べ弱いです。PLAの研磨はサンドペーパーで可能ですが、水冷が必要です（ウェットサンディング）。</p>
<p>PLAが生物学的に分解可能であることは、さまざまな情報源で主張されています。この素材はトウモロコシ、サトウキビ、テンサイから作られており、確かに分解されますが、80℃を超えるような特殊な堆肥化施設でのみ分解されることにご留意ください。基本的にはPLAは分解されず、プラスチックの微粒子で土壌を汚染してしまう可能性もあります。</p>
<p>PLA素材自体は食品に安全ですが、食器や食品に直接触れるもののプリントには、他のフィラメント素材も含めお勧めできません。主な理由は、細菌の繁殖を助ける可能性のある小さなプリント層/溝があるためです。それでも食器や食品容器を3Dプリントしたい場合は、表面を密閉する特別な層（フードセーフコーティング）を施し、ステンレス製のノズルでプリントすることをお勧めします。</p>
<p>対応する材料特性の比較は、<a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">材料表</a>をご覧ください。</p>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>長所</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>短所</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ 低価格</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ 脆く柔軟性がない</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ プリントが簡単で、初心者向き</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ 低い耐紫外線性、耐温度性</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ ディテールが良く、反りが少ない</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ 後処理が難しい</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ 大型モデルにも対応</p>
</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>最適な使用方法</h3>
<p>PLAの最適な用途は、コンセプトモデルやプロトタイプ、あるいは着用頻度の低い玩具のプリントです。</p>
<h3>プリントを成功させるためのヒント</h3>
<p><strong>スムースPEIシートの使用</strong></p>
<p>Original Prusa i3プリンターでPLAをプリントする場合、パウダーコートテクスチャーシート、またはパウダーコートサテンシートのいずれかにプリントすることができます。ただし、プリント面との接触面積が小さいパーツをプリントする場合は、平滑シートの方が適しています。パウダーコーティングされたシートの場合、ライブZを低くする必要があります。フィラメントがシートのテクスチャを埋めなければなりません。ただし、ノズルを下げすぎるとシートを傷つけてしまうので注意が必要です。プリンターユーザー向けの情報です。PLAは、PEIの表面だけでなく、ガラスやカプトンテープ、スティックのりなどにもプリントできます。</p>
<p><strong>より良い結果を得るためのリトラクト調整</strong></p>
<p>PLAは糸引きやにじみが発生することがありますが、適切な収縮率を設定することで軽減することができます。</p>
<p><strong>ケミカルスムージング</strong></p>
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter">
<div class="c-message_kit__gutter__right" data-qa="message_content">
<div class="c-message_kit__blocks c-message_kit__blocks--rich_text">
<div class="c-message__message_blocks c-message__message_blocks--rich_text">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer" data-qa="block-kit-renderer">
<div class="p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper p-block_kit_renderer__block_wrapper--first">
<div class="p-rich_text_block" dir="auto">
<div class="p-rich_text_section">PLAの<a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/improve-your-3d-prints-with-chemical-smoothing_36268/">ケミカルスムージング</a>は実験室の条件でのみ可能です - PLAはクロロホルム、ホットベンゼン、またはテトラヒドロフランに溶解させることができます。これらは危険な有機溶媒であり、熟練した実験技術者のみが取り扱うべきものです。PLAフィラメントの一部は、部分的に溶解してアセトンで接着することもできます（または、瞬間接着剤で単純に接着することもできます）。</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<h3>プリントサンプル</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-premium-pla-mystic-green-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-400x400.jpg 400w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-600x600.jpg 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-300x300.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-lime-green-blend-970g-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>マスク</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>静的なモデル</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-pearl-mouse-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-pla-prusa-galaxy-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>花瓶、コップほか</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>オーディオボリュームノブなどの部品</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>&nbsp;</p>


Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1S) is a recommended accessory for the Original Prusa SL1S [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa CW1 to CW1S platform upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa Enclosure [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa MK3.9 [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK4 upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa MK4 キットの組み立て

Original Prusa MMU3 キット組立て

Original Prusa XL Single-head to Five-head upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ キットアセンブリ

Original Prusa XL [進行中の翻訳]

Růženka Upgrade Final [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa XL semi-kit assembly INTERNAL [進行中の翻訳]

MINI+ kit assembly (draft) [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa XL unpacking (double tool) [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa MINI+は、数々の賞を受賞したOriginal Prusa i3 MK2/MK3Sの高いユーザビリティと、高品質・高耐久・高精度とすべてを兼ね備えたコンパクトな 3Dプリンターです!

Original Prusa MINI+ 半組立済み

Original Prusa XL semi-assembled (Dual-Head) [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 MK3S to MMU2S [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa XL unpacking (Quintuple - Head) [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 MK3 to MK3S+ upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa XL Five-Head (Semi-Assembled) [進行中の翻訳]

Original PrusaSL13Dプリンターは、MSLAプリントプロセスに基づいています。 Original Prusa i3マシンとは異なり、このプリンターは高解像度LCDパネルとUV LEDを使用してレジンの薄層を硬化し、前例のないレベルの精細さを実現します。

Original Prusa SL1キット組立て

The Original Prusa i3 MK3Sは受賞歴のあるOriginal Prusa i3 MK3 3Dプリンターの後継機種です。

Original Prusa i3 MK3Sキット組立て

Original Prusa i3 MK1 to MK2 upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 Plus 2.85 mm to 1.75 mm upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm to MK2S upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 Plus 1.75 mm kit assembly [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 MK2 to MK2S upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 MK2/S to MMU1 [進行中の翻訳]

The Original Prusa MINI is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S! [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa MINI assembly [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 MK2Sは、Original Prusa i3 MK2の後継機種であり、組み立てが簡単で信頼性が向上するようにハードウェアを微調整しています。

Original Prusa i3 MK2Sキット組立て

Original Prusa i3 MK2 キット組立て

Editing Original Prusa i3 MK2S to MK3 upgrade [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 MK3は受賞歴のあるOriginal Prusa i3 MK2 3D プリンターの後継機種です。

Original Prusa i3 MK3キット組立て

Original Prusa i3 MK3からMK3Sへのアップグレード

Original Prusa i3 MK2 MMU1 から MK2.5S MMU2Sへ

Original Prusa i3 MK2からMK3Sへのアップグレード

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK2.5 to MMU2 v1.01 [進行中の翻訳]

Original Prusa i3 MK2.5からMK2.5Sへのアップグレード

Original Prusa i3 MK2からMK2.5Sへのアップグレード

組立てガイド

基本的なキャリブレーション

高度なキャリブレーション

キャリブレーション中にプリンターがエラーメッセージ発した場合の対処方法。

キャリブレーションエラーメッセージ

パーフェクトプリントを実現するための、3Dプリンターを調整する方法を学ぶために知っておく必要のあるすべての情報。

キャリブレーション

プリンターの説明

プリンターの機能

shop.prusa3d.comで購入する前または後に興味があるかもしれないFAQおよび他の有用な情報

一般情報

3Dプリンターとその機能の基本的な概要に加えて、PrusaResearchの一般的な情報。

あなたのプリンターについて

3Dモデル

材料ガイド

スライス処理

プリンターメンテナンス

Prusa Connect [進行中の翻訳]

このセクションでは、材料ガイド、プリンタのトラブルシューティング、およびプリンタの使用に関する一般的な情報を見つけることができます。

このプリンターを使用

プリント品質のトラブルシューティング

プリンタートラブルシューティング

QR Error codes [進行中の翻訳]

プリントエラーメッセージ

Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related. [進行中の翻訳]

Troubleshooting [進行中の翻訳]

ノズル

Octoprint

Printer simulator [進行中の翻訳]

Protective Shields [進行中の翻訳]

Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more. [進行中の翻訳]

3rd party accessories [進行中の翻訳]

About [進行中の翻訳]

General [進行中の翻訳]

User interface [進行中の翻訳]

入力/出力

左ツールバー

トップツールバー

プリント設定

Filament settings [進行中の翻訳]

PrusaSlicer printer settings [進行中の翻訳]

Printer settings [進行中の翻訳]

Advanced options [進行中の翻訳]

Multi-material slicing [進行中の翻訳]

SLA スライス処理

Other [進行中の翻訳]

PrusaSlicerスライシングソフトウェアの公式ドキュメント。 基本構成からモディファイヤメッシュなどの詳細設定まで。

PrusaSlicer

About Printables Clubs [進行中の翻訳]

Printables [進行中の翻訳]

1. Introduction

2. Printer unboxing

2. Base & Side frame assembly

3. CoreXY & Back assembly

3. Printer set up

4. Heatbed & Side panels assembly

5. Extruder & accessories assembly

5. First run

5. Tool-changer assembly

6. First run

4. First run

Manual changelog

6. Extruder & accessories assembly

Manual changelog XL (double head)

Manual changelog XL (Dual-head)

7. First run

2B. Printer Unboxing

2A. Printer Unboxing

<p>If the filament is not loaded into the extruder, yet the printer is trying to pull the filament inside, there might be a hardware problem in some of the extruder components: we will examine the causes and fixes in this article. </p>
<h3>Retry procedure</h3>
<p>After an attempt at loading filament, the printer will prompt a screen, where it is asked if the filament color is correct. If the filament is not oozing from the nozzle at this stage, push the filament towards the extruder, and after that, select "retry". </p>
<h3>Idler tension screws</h3>
<p>The extruder includes two idler tension screws, to set the correct distance between the drive gear and the two driven gears. These are set to the optimal position at the factory. In case of an intervention on that component, it will be necessary to adjust the idler tension screws to their optimal position: the tips of the screws must be aligned with the front surface of the Idler Nut. After that, close the Idler Block.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/XL_Extruder_Open.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Filament not loading (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<h3>Clogged hotend</h3>
<p>Follow the instructions on the dedicated article on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/clogged-hotend-xl_401294">how to spot and fix a clogged hotend</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>
<p></p>


Filament not loading (XL)

<p>A clogged nozzle or hotend is a common issue for FFF/FDM printers. If there are no issues, the filament is pushed in the hotend, melted, and then extruded through the nozzle. However, if the nozzle is damaged or there are impurities in the filament it might get stuck in the hotend, clogging the printer.</p>
<h3>How to spot clogged nozzle/hotend?</h3>
<h4>Visual check</h4>
<ul>
<li>Is the filament reaching the nozzle? Check if the filament goes past the Nextruder gear.</li>
<li>Is the filament coming out of the nozzle? Pay attention when loading the filament.</li>
<li>Partial clog - gaps and missing layers</li>
<li>Partial clog - filament curling up and sticking to the nozzle</li>
</ul>
<h4>Soundcheck</h4>
<p>Check if there are clicking noises from the extruder</p>
<ul>
<li>If there is a loud clicking noise, this most likely suggests the nozzle is clogged or deformed </li>
<li>If there is a light clicking noise, this can most likely point to the gearing</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/81f35c769288a087.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Clogged hotend (XL)" alt="" width="400" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Partial clog</h4>
<p>Sometimes the clog is partial, meaning that the printer is able to push some filament through, but it is not enough to print the object properly, leading to visible gaps and missing layers. An early sign of a clogged nozzle is that the filament is not extruded consistently, curls up, and sticks to the nozzle.</p>
<h4>Extruder clicking</h4>
<p>The hotend or the nozzle is partially or fully clogged and the internal resistance against the flow of the filament is greater than what the gears are able to push. As a result, the gears are skipping leading to the “clicking” noise and in most scenarios also to the grinding of the filament.</p>
<h3>How to fix the clogged printer? </h3>
<p>Choosing the right method depends on whether <strong>you are able to at least partially load/unload the filament or whether the printer is fully jammed</strong> and refusing the move the filament even a little.</p>
<p>Before you start fixing the printer, try unloading the filament and removing it completely. If you are unable to do it, it might indicate a more serious problem, but we will deal with this one as well.</p>
<p>Also, move the heatbed downwards from <em>LCD Menu - Control - Move Axis - Z-axis</em> or by long-pressing the control knob, this way you will get better access to the parts that are clogged.</p>
<h4>Extruder idler screws</h4>
<p>The extruder includes two idler tension screws, to set the correct distance between the drive gear and the two driven gears. These are set to the optimal position at the factory. In case of an intervention on that part, you can adjust the idler tension screws to their optimal position: the tips of the screws must be aligned with the front surface of the Idler Nut. After that, close the Idler Block.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/DSC_3455-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Clogged hotend (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Gears</h4>
<p>Over time, a deposit of filament debris can form in the grooves of the feeding gear, which then causes insufficient filament extrusion. Access the extruder by lifting the Idler Nut, and then moving the Idle Shaft. You can blow away the dirt with compressed air, or use a brass brush or an ordinary toothpick. Use the access hole on the side of the extruder. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/XL_Extruder_PrimaryGear_TipTensionBolts.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Regular printer maintenance (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Nozzle </h4>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not touch the hotend while the printer is at a hot temperature.</strong> <strong>Heated parts can cause severe burns!</strong> </div>
<div>Follow these steps to clean the nozzle: </div>
<ol>
<li> Heat the nozzle to the appropriate temperature according to the filament material you will be printing from. First, introduce the filament, then insert an <strong>acupuncture needle</strong> (included in the package) or a thin wire (0.3-0.35 mm) into the nozzle from below to a depth of approximately 1-2 cm. <strong>Use protective gloves if material suddenly starts to flow from the nozzle</strong>.</li>
<li> Select the Load Filament option from the LCD menu and check that the nozzle is actually pushing the filament.</li>
<li> Insert the wire or acupuncture needle into the nozzle again and repeat the whole procedure several times. If the filament is extruded correctly, the nozzle is clean.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>
<p></p>


Clogged hotend (XL)

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>The printer is showing the message "<strong>Heatbed tile no. #: Unexpected temperature peak detected</strong>". </p>
<p>Error name: MB peak temp</p>
<p>Error code: #17255</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<p>The error message includes the number of the affected heatbed tile. The error might indicate an issue with the cable connecting the indicated heatbed tile with the modular bed electronics, or with the heatbed tile itself. </p>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Check that the indicated heatbed cable is correctly connected with the modular bed electronics, and with the heatbed tile, and reseat the connection. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/c5f65db6dd90f51757a22d416d61a73a.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Modular bed error #17255 (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="364" /></p>
<p>Check the heatbed tile for physical damage, for example, a scratch on any heatbed tile surface, or a cable in bad status on the bottom of a heatbed tile. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/62e63d3583be936f9637b2dfca45c1da.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Modular bed error #17255 (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<h4>Swap the cables</h4>
<p>Swap the heatbed tile connection indicated on the error with another heatbed tile connector, and check if the indicated heatbed tile number in the error changes, or remains the same after the swap. </p>
<p>If the error changes to another heatbed tile number after the cables swap, then the cable is causing the error. </p>
<p>If the error is still the same as before, with the same error code, and on the same heatbed tile number after the swap, most likely the heatbed tile is causing the error. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">If your findings are different than these two cases, or in case of any doubts, do not hesitate to contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a>.</div>
<p></p>


Modular bed error #17255 (XL)

<p>This guide will help you solve the most common issues with the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/prusa-connect-and-prusalink-explained_302608">PrusaLink and Prusa Connect</a> installed on MK4, MINI/+, XL, MK3/S/+, and MK2.5/S.</p>
<h3>Original Prusa MK4, XL, MINI+, MINI</h3>
<h4>The browser login does not work</h4>
<p>Attempt the login using another browser, some browsers might have issues with the PrusaLink login. </p>
<h4>The printer does not establish a connection (8+ minutes)</h4>
<p>Double-check the credentials in the prusa_printer_settings.ini file, and load them again in the USB drive. On each field, ensure that there is no space before and after the = character. Having the following special characters as part of the SSID would also cause the connection to not be established, make sure they are not part of the SSID: </p>
<ul>
<li>- (Dash)</li>
<li>_ (Underscore)</li>
<li>' (Apostrophe)</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/782027dd534617cf_painted.png" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>On the MINI/+, the prusa_printer_settings.ini file shows an extra row, ensure that this is not changed (key_mgmt=WPA)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/646e334be3da2dd0_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S</h3>
<h4>Bad X-Api-Key</h4>
<p>If <strong>PrusaLink </strong>is selected in PrusaSlicer, it is necessary to enter an <strong>API key</strong>. For PrusaLink 0.7.0 or higher, the API key can be found in Prusa Connect, in the Settings tab, on older versions it is shown during the PrusaLink Wizard. Alternatively, select <strong>HTTP digest</strong> for authentication and add your PrusaLink username and password.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/be235d272b70fcd5d86012f40daf4598.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="PrusaLink Troubleshooting" alt="" width="600" height="490" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>500 internal server error</h4>
<p>This error is caused by the printer serial number not being written properly on the printer Einsy board EEPROM. The solution is copying the serial number to the Einsy EEPROM, with the following procedure: </p>
<ol>
<li>Connect a power bank, a USB charger, or another source of power (excluding a computer) to the printer USB type B port.</li>
<li>With the printer switched on, press the reset button. </li>
</ol>
<h4>Some options in printer detail are not available</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the printer is online and ready</li>
<li>If you do not see any options at all, make sure you have the correct version 0.6.1 of the PrusaLink SD card image flashed to your RPi. In case of doubt, <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#222174">download the PrusaLink SD card image again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>“ERR: NO IP” on LCD</h4>
<ul>
<li>Wait for up to 5 minutes, sometimes it shows the IP later.</li>
<li>Make sure you have Wi-Fi within reach and in 2.4 GHz.
<div class="note-callout">5GHz Wi-Fi is not supported.</div>
</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304794">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>, making sure you have the name and password entered correctly in Pi Imager settings.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The IP address is not shown</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure the RPi port option in <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; RPi port</em> is ON. </li>
<li>Check that the green LED is on or flashing at the bottom right corner of the RPi.
<div class="warning-callout">If the green LED is not on or flashing, the RPi is not working. Review the soldering of the pins, and make sure the pins are long enough. You can test the Pi by connecting it to USB power, but make sure it is not connected via pins to the Einsy board in that case!</div>
</li>
<li>Check that the SD card can be accessed on your computer. Try a different computer if possible, or <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304794">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Credentials cannot be saved on RPi Imager</h4>
<p>Ensure that the network has a password. A network without a password cannot be saved on the RPi Imager.</p>
<h4>White/blank screen after finishing the Wizard</h4>
<p>Make sure you are logged in on <a href="https://connect.prusa3d.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">connect.prusa3d.com</a>.</p>
<h4>Forgotten login/password to the Link’s website or printer accidentally removed from Connect</h4>
<p>It will be necessary to go through the wizard again. Remove the prusa_printer_settings.ini file from the folder /home/pi, and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304794">set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</p>
<h4>Flashing takes a long amount of time (20+ minutes)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using a Class10 micro SD card or better. Slow microSD cards affect the speed of the flashing.</li>
<li>Some computers, especially old ones, may have a slow SD card reader. Try the USB reader, if available.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The wizard is slow (2+ minutes to load the next page)</h4>
<ul>
<li>PrusaLink might be still loading. Wait for a few minutes and try again.</li>
<li>Make sure your computer and your printer are connected to the very same network. For example, if your computer is connected by cable and your printer is connected via WiFi, it can cause this issue.</li>
</ul>
<h4>The LCD shows “Starting PrusaLink” after 5+ minutes (MK3/S/+)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads" target="_blank" rel="noopener">firmware version</a>.</li>
<li><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/prusalink-and-prusa-connect-setup-mk3-s-_221744#304794">Set up the SD card in Pi Imager again</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Slow uploading of the G-code to PrusaLink</h4>
<p>The upload speed is limited while printing to prevent slowing down the print.</p>
<h4>The Wizard can’t get the serial number from the printer</h4>
<p>Make sure you are using the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">firmware version</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">Customer Support</a> if the previous step is not solving the issue. </div>
<p></p>


PrusaLink Troubleshooting

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>During firmware flashing on your Original Prusa XL, you might get the message "<strong>USB drive not connected! Please insert a USB drive with a valid firmware file</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: USB not connected</p>
<p>Error code: #17602 </p>
<p>This issue happens when there is an error reading the USB drive.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Make sure that the USB drive is connected to the printer, and that the USB port in the Buddy board is not damaged. If the error persists, try using a new, <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-cards-and-usb-drives_112291#how-do-i-format-the-usb-drive-sd-card" target="_blank" rel="noopener">FAT32-formatted USB drive</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>
<p></p>


USB flash drive not connected #17602 (XL)

<p>On the Original Prusa XL, the <strong>selftest </strong>checks for issues in the assembly of the printer, its wiring and the electronic components. It is the first part of the Calibration Wizard, which is prompted automatically when you turn on the printer for the first time or after a Factory reset (XL). After the initial calibration is completed, the selftest can be initiated in <em>LCD Menu - Calibration - Selftest</em>.</p>
<div class="note-callout">During the selftest, do not manipulate or touch the printer, unless the printer prompts an action with instructions on the display. </div>
<div>
<div class="tip-callout">If the printer is placed on an unstable surface or if there is another running 3D printer next to it, it may affect the accuracy of the calibration negatively. The printer should be placed on a stable surface. </div>
</div>
<h3>Selftest procedure checks</h3>
<ul>
<li>Test of the extruder and the print fan</li>
<li>Test of the X, Y, and Z axis</li>
<li>Proper connection of the heated bed and the hotend</li>
<li>Loadcell test</li>
<li>Setting up the filament sensor </li>
</ul>
<h3>Selftest results</h3>
<p>During the selftest, its results are shown on the screen, indicating success or fail for each point. Alterantively, the results can be shown at any time on the following path: <em>LCD Menu - Calibrate - Diagnostics - Show selftest results</em>.</p>
<h3>Selftest errors</h3>
<h4>Test of the extruder and the print fan</h4>
<p>The Original Prusa XL selftest procedure can determine which of the fans doesn't work. Check the one that is diagnosed as <strong>not OK</strong>.</p>
<ul>
<li>Make sure that both of your fans are correctly connected to the Dwarf board.</li>
<li>Check for any blockage that could prevent either of the fans from spinning.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Test of the X, Y, and Z axis</h4>
<p>The printer can determine if the components are moving correctly along each axis. </p>
<p>In case of an issue on the X-axis, or on the Y-axis, make sure that there is no obstacle to the movement, and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/adjusting-belt-tension-xl_401793">readjust the belt tension</a>. </p>
<h4>Proper connection of the heated bed and the hotend</h4>
<p>The selftest can determine a fault during the heating of a component, and the affected component. </p>
<p>Heat up the affected component in [LCD Menu - Settings - Preheat], and see if any error appears: if it does, the error should have a QR code that redirects to the article that describes how to troubleshoot that particular error. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a> if you are on a different case, or in case of any doubts. </div>
<h4>Loadcell test</h4>
<p>A functioning <strong>loadcell</strong> is fundamental for the Original Prusa XL to detect that the nozzle is close enough to the steel sheet for printing, and to avoid damage that would be caused by the nozzle digging into the steel sheet. </p>
<ul>
<li>Make sure that the loadcell is correctly connected to the Dwarf board. </li>
<li>Make sure that the surface the printer is on is as stable as possible: any form of vibration propagated to the surface under the printer, or a not fully stable surface under the printer, might cause a false reading on the loadcell, causing it to fail the selftest. </li>
</ul>
<h4>Filament sensor</h4>
<p>The Original Prusa XL is equipped with <strong>two filament sensors</strong>: the first one is located on the side, close to the input of the PTFE tube where you feed the filament. The second one is located in the extruder. Both filament sensors are necessary for the correct filament retraction: when the sensor on the side detects that the filament has run out, the filament will be retracted in time. </p>
<ul>
<li>Make sure that the extruder filament sensor is correctly connected to the Dwarf board.</li>
<li>Make sure that the side filament sensor is correctly connected.</li>
</ul>
<p></p>


Selftest failed (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>On the Original Prusa XL, the I2C bus is used for the XLBuddy to communicate with other printer components. If there is an error in sending data from the XLBuddy, the printer will show the message <strong>"HAL detected an I2C error when sending data via I2C."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: I2C Send Failed</p>
<p>Error code: #17311 </p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p><strong>Restarting the printer</strong> is expected to resolve the error, and this is not expected to occur again.</p>
<p>If the issue appears again, <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">download the firmware</a> and if necessary the bootloader, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer again by pressing the same reset button, and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob.</p>
<p>In case that also does not solve the issue, please contact <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">our customer support</a>, and we will take it from here.</p>
<p></p>


I2C Send Failed #17311 (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The XL tool heads are connected to a metal profile on the back extrusion of the XL. During the selftest of the multi-tool head, the wizard will guide you through the <strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/4-first-run_468832#469237">Dock position calibration</a></strong> to properly align the tool heads. In case the tools are not aligned correctly, this error will be shown. </p>
<p>Error name: Dock position out of bounds</p>
<p>Error code: #17102</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>First, make sure that the metal profile that holds the extruders is all the way to the left side of the printer facing it from the back.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/713f759a4f38554c7ea7f05f16dfb8a6_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Dock position out of bounds #17103 (XL)" alt="" width="400" height="1152" /></p>
<p>After that, restart the <strong>Dock Position calibration </strong>by going to<em> LCD menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Calibrations &amp; Tests -&gt; 4 Dock Position Calibration</em>. Align the tool heads again.</p>
<p></p>


Dock position out of bounds #17103 (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>While flashing firmware to your Original Prusa XL, an error might occur, and the screen will display the following message: "<strong>No firmware found in the internal flash! Please flash firmware first!</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: No FW in internal flash</p>
<p>Error code: #17612</p>
<p>This error is shown when there is no valid firmware in the internal Flash memory. This can happen if you restart the printer during the firmware flashing process.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Download the firmware</a> and if necessary the bootloader, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer again by pressing the same reset button, and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob.</p>
<p>The printer will let you know when the flashing is done. When installing the bootloader along with the firmware, it may take several minutes.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>
<p> </p>
<p></p>


Firmware missing #17612 (XL)

<p>Prusa MK4プリンタには、LCDスクリーンの下端にステータスLEDが装備されています。これは3つの物理的なRGB LEDから成り立ちます。システムは、現在のシナリオに基づいて色と強度を変更します。このシステムの目的は、ユーザーに役立つ視覚情報を提供することです。</p>
<div class="tip-callout">遠くからでもLEDが見えるようにします。LCDスクリーンの前縁の下にしっかりとした反射面があることを確認してください。</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="http://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/a0ba9c14ecc0e9e72b88673c7bd5c4b7.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Status LED explained" alt="" width="800" height="450" /></p>
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>
<h3>対応プリンター：</h3>
<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4</li>
<li>Original Prusa XL</li>
</ul>
<h3>LEDに設定されている点灯シナリオ：</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>起動に成功</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>シナリオ:</strong> システムの起動が成功したと評価されました。</li>
<li><strong>LEDの反応:</strong> LEDは緑色に点灯します。</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>警告</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>シナリオ:</strong> プリンタがユーザーの操作を必要とし、その後プリントを継続できる（例：フィラメントの交換、フィラメント切れ、Gコードの一時停止、MMUが注意を要するなど）。</li>
<li><strong>LEDの反応:</strong>&nbsp;LEDは黄色に点灯します。</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>致命的なエラー</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>シナリオ:</strong> 重大なエラーが発生し、プリントジョブを続行できない状態です。プリンタを正しく動作させるために、プリンタを修理する必要があります（例：熱暴走、予熱エラー、最高/最低温度エラー、...）。</li>
<li><strong>LEDの反応:</strong> LEDは赤色で点滅します。</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>プリントジョブが進行中</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>シナリオ:</strong> プリンタは現在、選択されたGコードをプリント中です。</li>
<li><strong>LEDの反応:</strong> LEDが青色に切り替わります。</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>プリントジョブが完了</strong>
<ul>
<li><strong>シナリオ:</strong> 現在のプリントジョブが正常に終了し、プリントヘッドが停止し、完成したオブジェクトを回収するためにユーザーを待っています。<strong>プリントシートはまだ熱いかもしれません。</strong>また、プリントを剥がしやすくするために、表面が冷めるまでしばらく時間をおいてください。</li>
<li><strong>LEDの反応:</strong> LEDが緑色に切り替わります。</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h3>使用定義されたLEDステータス</h3>
<p>LEDはGコードM150を使ってコントロールすることができます。こちらのサイトを参照してください。&nbsp;<a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M150.html">Marlin FW site</a>.</p>


ステータスLEDについて (MK4/XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL is showing the message "<strong>Check all tools if they are properly parked or picked</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Err Toolchanger</p>
<p>Error code: #17101</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<p>Ensure that the Toolchanger carriage is clean and free of debris. Make sure none of the dock pins are bent or damaged in any other way.</p>
<p>If the error occurs mid-print, manually park all the tools, home the printer, and resume the print. </p>
<p>In case the error persists, re-run the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/4-first-run_468832#469237">Dock Position Calibration</a> and the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/4-first-run_468832#469256">Tool Offset Calibration</a>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you have tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>
<p> </p>
<p></p>


Toolchanger error #17101 (XL)

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>If your Original Prusa XL fails to heat correctly one of the heatbed tiles, the printer will show the message "<strong>Heatbed tile no. #: Preheat error</strong>". </p>
<p>Error name: MB heater disconnected</p>
<p>Error code: #17256</p>
<p>The error message includes the number of the affected heatbed tile. The error might indicate an issue with the cable connecting the indicated heatbed tile with the modular bed electronics, or with the heatbed tile itself. </p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Check that the indicated heatbed cable is correctly connected with the modular bed electronics, and with the heatbed tile, and reseat the connection. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/c5f65db6dd90f51757a22d416d61a73a.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Modular bed error #17256 (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="364" /></p>
<p>Check the heatbed tile for physical damage, for example, a scratch on any heatbed tile surface, or a cable in bad status on the bottom of a heatbed tile. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/62e63d3583be936f9637b2dfca45c1da.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Modular bed error #17256 (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<h4>Swap the cables</h4>
<p>Swap the heatbed tile connection indicated on the error with another heatbed tile connector, and check if the indicated heatbed tile number in the error changes, or remains the same after the swap. </p>
<p>If the error changes to another heatbed tile number after the cables swap, then the cable is causing the error. </p>
<p>If the error is still the same as before, with the same error code, and on the same heatbed tile number after the swap, most likely the heatbed tile is causing the error. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">If your findings are different than these two cases, or in case of any doubts, do not hesitate to contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a>.</div>
<p></p>


Modular bed error #17256 (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL is equipped with a <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/preview/article/loadcell-xl"><strong>loadcell</strong></a>, to detect that the nozzle is close enough to the steel sheet for printing, and to avoid damage that would be caused by the nozzle digging into the steel sheet. </p>
<p>The printer firmware expects a measurement sample from the loadcell to occur within a specified time. In case this does not happen, the printer will show the message <strong>"There was a timeout while waiting for measurement sample, please repeat the action."</strong></p>
<p>Error name: Loadcell timeout</p>
<p>Error code: #17528</p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<div class="warning-callout">Before you start, make sure:</p>
<ul>
<li>the filament is unloaded from the extruder</li>
<li>the printer is turned OFF and unplugged from electricity</li>
<li>the hotend and the heatbed are cooled down to ambient temperature</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="note-callout">Since we will handle tools and work with the extruder high above the heatbed, it is necessary to protect it.</div>
<div>Place an empty Prusament cardboard box approximately to the front center part of the heatbed. Move the X-axis all the way to the front side of the printer, and move the extruder approximately to the center of the X-axis.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/5ac820162657e8e0_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Loadcell not calibrated #17523 (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" loading="lazy" /></div>
<p>Open the dwarf-cover-door to access the Dwarf board. The loadcell connector is on the bottom left, check it for any loose cable, disconnected cable, or visible damage. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.805%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/27238ac3f74c4dfc_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.9057%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/9eff71e4b385efb4_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Loadcell not calibrated #17523 (XL)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Re-calibrate the loadcell</h4>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not manipulate or touch the printer unless the instructions on the printer screen prompt you to do so.</div>
<p>Navigate to <em>LCD Menu - Control - Calibration and test - Loadcell test</em> to restart the loadcell calibration.</p>
<p>During the test, you will be asked to tap the nozzle at a specific time, and a progress bar on top of the screen will be filled. If the progress bar is not filled or the printer shows any errors, please contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a>.</p>
<p></p>


Loadcell timeout #17528 (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>On the Original Prusa XL, communication with the peripheral boards (e.g. Dwarf board) is achieved using the <strong>MODBUS protocol</strong>. In MODBUS, there are two types of devices: the <strong>master </strong>and the <strong>slave</strong>, also known, respectively, as <strong>client </strong>and <strong>server</strong>. On Original Prusa XL firmware, the master is the XLBuddy, and each slave is called <strong>puppy</strong>. </p>
<p>If one of the puppies does not respond to a request from XLBuddy within a specified time period, the printer will show the message: "<strong>Waiting for puppies to start timed out</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Puppy run timeout</p>
<p>Error code: #17522</p>
<p>The error most likely indicates a disconnection or fault with a cable connected to a peripheral board, that happened during a printer operation. </p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<div class="warning-callout">Before accessing any of the electronic boards, ensure that the printer is <strong>fully cooled down</strong>, and <strong>switched off for at least 10 minutes</strong>. </div>
<p>Inspect the wiring between the Sandwich board and the indicated puppy board for a cable positioned into an incorrect port, a loose connection, or a visibly broken cable. </p>
<h4>Re-flash firmware</h4>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Download the firmware</a> and if necessary the bootloader, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer again by pressing the same reset button, and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>
<p></p>


Puppy error #17522 (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The printer is showing the message: "<strong>Unknown error</strong>"</p>
<p>Error name: ESP unknown error</p>
<p>Error code: #17506</p>
<p>On the Original Prusa XL, the XLBuddy board includes a WiFi module, the <strong>ESP32</strong>. needed to achieve WiFi connectivity. The error is triggered in case the printer detects an undefined problem with the ESP32 board.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<h4>Re-flash firmware</h4>
<p>The firmware needed for the ESP32 module is included in the XL firmware file. Download the firmware and if necessary the bootloader, and transfer it to your USB drive. Make sure to unmount the drive from your operating system before physically removing it.</p>
<p>Insert the USB drive back into the printer and reboot the printer using the reset button directly next to the knob to initiate the flashing procedure. In case the procedure does not start, reboot the printer again by pressing the same reset button, and while the printer is booting up, press once the rotating knob.</p>
<p>The printer will let you know when the flashing is done. When installing the bootloader along with the firmware, it may take several minutes.</p>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<div class="warning-callout">Before accessing any of the electronic boards, ensure that the printer is <strong>fully cooled down</strong>, and <strong>switched off for at least 10 minutes</strong>. </div>
<p>Access the XLBuddy board, and locate the ESP32 module. Inspect the ESP32 board for any visible damage.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>
<p></p>


ESP error #17506 (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>On the Original Prusa XL, communication with the peripheral boards (e.g. Dwarf board) is achieved using the <strong>MODBUS protocol</strong>. In MODBUS, there are two types of devices: the <strong>master </strong>and the <strong>slave</strong>, also known, respectively, as <strong>client </strong>and <strong>server</strong>. On Original Prusa XL firmware, the master is the XLBuddy, and each slave is called <strong>puppy</strong>.</p>
<p>A <strong>fingerprint </strong>is a unique identifier of a specific version of the firmware. The Original Prusa XL checks the fingerprint of the puppies, to ensure the firmware flashed on the peripheral boards is compatible with the printer, and the boards are safe to use. In case of a problem during this check, the printer will show the message: "<strong>Puppy # flashed fingerprint mismatch</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Puppy fingerprint mismatch</p>
<p>Error code: #17520</p>
<p>The error message will include the name of the puppy that has the fingerprint mismatch. </p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The firmware for all puppies is part of the Original Prusa XL firmware and bootloader files. <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Download the latest firmware</a> and if necessary the bootloader relevant to your printer version, and flash the files. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">Are you still having issues? Contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">support team</a> and let them know that you tried to fix the issue with these instructions. We will take it from there.</div>
<p></p>


Puppy error #17520 (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>On the multi-tool versions of the Original Prusa XL, the offset of the tools compared to the first is calibrated through the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/guide/4-first-run_468832#469256">Tool Offset Calibration</a>. If the offset of one of the tools is too high compared to the expected range, the printer will show the following message: "<strong>Tool %d offset %c: %.3f is out of bounds [%.3f, %.3f]</strong>".</p>
<div class="tip-callout">In place of %d, the number of the tool is shown, in place of %c the axis, and in place of %3f the values. </div>
<p>Error name: Tool offset out of bounds</p>
<p>Error code: #17104</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>Check if the nozzle is pushed into the heatsink. Ensure that the nozzle is correctly positioned. </p>
<p>Make sure that the filament is unloaded before the calibration process, and that there is no filament residue under the nozzle. </p>
<p></p>


Tool offset out of bounds #17104 (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>The Original Prusa XL continuously monitors the temperature of the tool head in use and its variation with respect to an expected reference. In case the printer recognizes a variation out of the acceptable range, it will display the following message: "<strong>Measured temperature is not matching expected value. Check if the thermistor is in contact with the heaterblock. In case of damage, replace it</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: Hotend temp not matching </p>
<p>Error code: #17210</p>
<p>In this case, the printer will stop the heating and display the message on the screen. The printer then waits for the user to inspect all parts and if needed fix the issue.</p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<p>The error might indicate an issue with the wiring, either the heater or the thermistor cables are possibly damaged.</p>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Before breaking out the multimeter you should check the Dwarf board, where the thermistor and heater reside, to ensure that no wires have broken off, or are disconnected. </p>
<div class="warning-callout">Before you start, make sure:</p>
<ul>
<li>the filament is unloaded from the extruder</li>
<li>the printer is turned OFF and unplugged from electricity</li>
<li>the hotend and the heatbed are cooled down to ambient temperature</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="note-callout">Because we will handle tools and work with the extruder high above the heatbed, it is necessary to protect it.</div>
<p>Place an empty Prusament cardboard box approximately to the front center part of the heated. Move the X-axis all the way to the front side of the printer, and move the extruder approximately to the center of the X-axis.</p>
<p>Open the dwarf-cover-door to access the Dwarf board.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/dc053446459b18b4711ea5b21c3b0c74.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Extruder temp not matching #17210 (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>Check that all the connectors are secure in their sockets, according to the picture below. Focus on the thermistor and heater cables. Though unlikely, rough shipping or handling could have shaken the heater or thermistor cables loose. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/020196d1dade2d87f7b71350ce347761_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Extruder temp not matching #17210 (XL)" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Checking the resistance</h4>
<p>The table below describes the correct resistance for each part, as well as what scale you should set your meter to. The hotend thermistor is rated to be <strong>100 kΩ at 25 °C.</strong> To be realistic, with a varying temperature between 20 °C and 30 <strong>°</strong>C, <strong>you can expect a wider range of readings (~80-125 kΩ).</strong></p>
<p>There can be micro-fractures in the cable, breaking the connections only at certain positions. Therefore, try to move the cable a bit while doing the measurement and see if the value changes drastically.</p>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<h5>Part</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<h5>Resistance</h5>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<h5>Multimeter scale</h5>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Hotend thermistor </p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[80 kΩ - 125 kΩ]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 kΩ</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 249px;">
<p>Hotend heater</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 326px;">
<p><strong>[12.3 Ω - 15.1 Ω]</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 188px;">
<p>200 Ω</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The part should be cold (room temperature) and unplugged when measuring the resistance!</strong></div>
<p></p>


Extruder temp not matching #17210 (XL)

<h3>What happened? </h3>
<p>The printer is showing the message: "<strong>Heatbed tile no. #: Temperature measurement error; thermistor may be faulty"</strong>. </p>
<p>Error name: MB Mintemp Err</p>
<p>Error code: #17252</p>
<p>The error message includes the number of the affected heatbed tile. The error might indicate an issue with the thermistor attached to the indicated heatbed tile. </p>
<h3>How to fix it? </h3>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<p>Check that the indicated heatbed cable is correctly connected with the modular bed electronics, and with the heatbed tile, and reseat the connection. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/c5f65db6dd90f51757a22d416d61a73a.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Modular bed error #17252 (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="364" /></p>
<p>Check the heatbed tile for physical damage, for example, a scratch on any heatbed tile surface, or a cable in bad status on the bottom of a heatbed tile. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/62e63d3583be936f9637b2dfca45c1da.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Modular bed error #17252 (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<h4>Swap the cables</h4>
<p>Swap the heatbed tile connection indicated on the error with another heatbed tile connector, and check if the indicated heatbed tile number in the error changes, or remains the same after the swap. </p>
<p>If the error changes to another heatbed tile number after the cables swap, then the cable is causing the error. </p>
<p>If the error is still the same as before, with the same error code, and on the same heatbed tile number after the swap, most likely the heatbed tile is causing the error. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">If your findings are different than these two cases, or in case of any doubts, do not hesitate to contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a>.</div>
<div class="note-callout">The heatbed tile thermistor is not available as a separate part: it comes together with the heatbed tile.</div>
<p></p>


Modular bed error #17252 (XL)

<h3>What happened?</h3>
<p>In case the printer detects an unknown problem with the modular bed, the display will show the following message "<strong>Heatbed tile no. #: Unknown error: #</strong>".</p>
<p>Error name: MB unknown error</p>
<p>Error code: #17501</p>
<p>The error message includes the number of the affected heatbed tile and a text at the end that specifies the nature of the error. </p>
<h3>How to fix it?</h3>
<h4>A visual inspection</h4>
<div class="warning-callout">Before accessing any of the electronic boards, ensure that the printer is <strong>fully cooled down</strong>, and <strong>switched off for at least 10 minutes</strong>. </div>
<p>Check that the indicated heatbed cable is correctly connected with the modular bed electronics, and with the heatbed tile, and reseat the connection. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/c5f65db6dd90f51757a22d416d61a73a.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Modular bed error #17501 (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="364" /></p>
<p>Check the heatbed tile for physical damage, for example, a scratch on any heatbed tile surface, or a damaged cable on the bottom of a heatbed tile. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/62e63d3583be936f9637b2dfca45c1da.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Modular bed error #17501 (XL)" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<h4>Swap the cables</h4>
<p>Swap the heatbed tile connection indicated on the error with another heatbed tile connector, and check if the indicated heatbed tile number in the error changes, or remains the same after the swap. </p>
<p>If the error changes to another heatbed tile number after the cables swap, then the cable is causing the error. </p>
<p>If the error is still the same as before, with the same error code, and on the same heatbed tile number after the swap, most likely the heatbed tile is causing the error. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">If your findings are different than the covered cases, or in case of any doubts, do not hesitate to contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/ja/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a>.</div>
<p></p>


Modular bed error #17501 (XL)


<ul>
<li>Initial release for Original Prusa XL</li>
</ul>


1.00

4.5.3


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>New Home screen </li>



<li>Homing improvements</li>



<li>Changes to Live Adjust Z</li>



<li>Footer Items settings improved&nbsp;</li>



<li>Prusa Connect and PrusaLink improvements</li>



<li>Improvements to the Factory Reset feature&nbsp;</li>



<li>Calibrations and Tests on improvements</li>



<li>Tool changer usage statistics</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


4.6.1


<p>Updated with information for semi-assembled XL</p>


1.02


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>Multi-tool support</li>



<li>Other improvements</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


4.7.0


<ul>
<li>Single tool G-code on a multi tool printer</li>



<li>Known Bugs</li>
</ul>


4.7.1


<ul>
<li>Custom nozzle diameter</li>



<li>Temperature menu reordered</li>
</ul>


4.7.2


<ul>
<li>Updated with instructions for the Original Prusa PDU</li>
</ul>


1.03


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1

4.7.5


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Printing speed boost with Input Shaper and Pressure Advance (XL and MINI)</li>



<li>Major updates to network code; Instant Printing feature</li>



<li>Major updates to Prusa Connect and network communication</li>



<li>Introducing a new efficient open-source Binary G-code format</li>



<li>New useful pre-print screen for XL Multi-Tool printers</li>



<li>Cancel object directly from the printer’s menu</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa XL