MK3.5

MK4 to MK4S upgrade  
The current lead time is 1-2 weeks for both xLCD versions.  Due to high demand, we cannot guarantee delivery of this product before Christmas.
<h3>Current lead time estimates for new orders</h3>
Updated: December 17th, 2024 
The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual production. We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.
The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.
If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.
Due to high demand, we cannot guarantee delivery of the following products before Christmas.

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<h4>Product</h4>
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<h4>Lead time</h4>
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MK4 to MK4S upgrade
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1-2 weeks
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MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade
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1-2 weeks
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MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade
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4-5 weeks
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MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade
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1-2 weeks
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MK3S/S+ to MK3.5S
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1-2 weeks
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Original Prusa MK4S
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1-2 weeks
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Original Prusa MK4S kit
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4-5 weeks
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Original Prusa XL
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1-2 weeks
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Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit (all printer models)
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1-2 weeks
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<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade (MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)
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4-5 weeks
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Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit (MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)
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4-5 weeks
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Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit (MK3S+ &amp; MK3.5/S)
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1-2 weeks
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Original Prusa XL Enclosure
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1-2 weeks
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Original Prusa MINI Enclosure
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1-2 weeks
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Original Prusa MK Enclosure 
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4-5 weeks
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You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the Czech Republic, a member state of the European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU! Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

Infill patterns

The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being slightly squished.
The printers assembled in the Prusa factory are already fine-tuned and this calibration is needed only in case you build the kit version at home or change the nozzle. The First Layer Calibration is part of the Wizard (last step of the XYZ-Calibration). You can also recalibrate the first layer later on from the LCD-menu - Calibration - First Layer Calibration. During this process, rotate the knob to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed, while the printer is printing a zig-zag pattern.
<div class="warning-callout">As each type of sheet (smooth, satin, and textured) has a different thickness you must use a different First layer calibration for each of them. For this, we have a convenient feature called <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
With a newly assembled printer, you will start at zero and move into a negative (-) value, reducing the distance between nozzle and heat bed. The initial zero-value is set by the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA. position. Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed and moving the value away from zero. The value is unique to each printer and it may also slightly change with time and use. You must, therefore, check visually when adjusting the height, not by a set value. 
<img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-300x169.jpg 300w" alt="" width="600" height="338" loading="lazy" />
The first layer calibration being set incorrectly can lead to various issues. With the nozzle too far from the print surface, you risk your print not sticking properly, which can result in a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005">blob</a>. On the other side, if set too close, you can experience extrusion problems and <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_2008">clogging</a> and poor print quality, or even damage to the hardware, like the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">Flexible steel sheet</a> due to the print sticking too much. It is therefore important to get this right.
<img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-300x62.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-01-600x125.jpg 600w" width="600" height="125" loading="lazy" data-hd-align="center" />
Before you proceed, make sure that the print surface (satin, smooth, or textured steel-sheet) is clean. You can find information on how to clean it in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">PEI print surface preparation</a>. There are some small differences between how it should look on the textured and smooth steel sheet. We will, therefore, present pictures and guidelines for both, starting with the smooth sheet.
<div>
<div class="note-callout" style="text-align: center;">Turn the knob counter-clockwise to bring the nozzle closer to the bed.</div>
</div>
<h3>Smooth sheet</h3>
<h4>Too high</h4>
You want the line flattened, but not squished. On the square at the end of the test line, you do not want any gaps between the lines (left picture), which means it is too high. In that case, the value will be too close to zero
<h4>Too low</h4>
If the nozzle is set too low (right picture) you will see the line squished completely flat and the end square will have ridges between the lines, which is a clear sign it is set too low and the value will be too far away from zero. When it is too low, the edges of the square can also start curling upwards. In the extreme, the filament will be spread so thin you will be able to see through the printed filament, leading to clogging of your hotend.
<div class="warning-callout">Having the nozzle too low can cause the nozzle to damage your steel sheet. This is not covered by <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/warranty_2288">Warranty</a>.</div>
<h4>Just right</h4>
A correct adjustment will show you an even surface (center picture), with no gaps between lines, nor ridges. As stated, the numeric value depends on the exact position of the P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor, which will be unique to each machine and means nothing without a visual reference. However, a common range is from -0.400 to -1.500.
<img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-02-800x318.jpg 800w" />
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting it closer can in some cases improve adhesion. However, if you are having problems with adhesion, but your first layer calibration looks like the 'good' picture (center picture), your problem lies somewhere else, like a dirty/greasy sheet, print-settings, bed leveling/XYZ calibration, or under-extrusion.</div>
<img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-600x214.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-800x286.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-300x107.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-768x274.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-1536x548.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-03fix-2-2048x731.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1121" height="400" loading="lazy" />
<div class="warning-callout">You can not use the same first layer calibration if you swap between the Smooth and the textured sheet! For more information, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</div>
<h3>Textured sheet</h3>
The textured sheets are thinner than the sheets with smooth PEI, therefore you need to move the nozzle bit closer, but you are seeking the same results as with the smooth sheet. Again, if it is set too low (right picture) the filament can start curling up around the edges like it is not adhering. The numeric value will be too far from zero and must be adjusted back.
If set too high, you will see the line being round, and have gaps between the lines of the end-square. In this case, the value is too close to zero.
<img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg" />
<h3>Have a look at the nozzle</h3>
A single layer is about 0.2 mm / 0.00787402 inch. Having a look at the nozzle and its distance to the sheet can also be helpful. However, measuring the printed layer with calipers is not a recommended method to calibrate the first layer.
<img decoding="async" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-768x305.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05-800x318.jpg 800w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/First-Layer-Calibration-05.jpg" />
<h3>When to run the First layer calibration</h3>
Generally, the first layer calibration should be performed every time there is a major change in the assembly. This includes changing the nozzle, extruder upgrades, or other updates to any axis. You should also run all calibrations if you move the printer to a different location.
<div class="tip-callout">For First Layer Calibrations with other nozzle diameters than 0.4 mm, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">this article</a></div>
<h3>Other issues</h3>
<ul>
<li>If the width of the line varies across its length, you may have to do some <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267">Bed Level Correction</a>.</li>
<li>If the nozzle comes in contact with the bed, the SuperPINDA/P.I.N.D.A. leveling sensor is not being triggered by the flexible steel sheet and must be physically moved lower in its holder. This will bring it closer to the level of the nozzle tip. You should make sure it is adjusted as instructed in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792">Preflight check</a> in the Assembly manual. If you move the leveling sensor you must redo the First layer calibration.</li>
</ul>

First Layer Calibration (i3)

<div class="warning-callout">This is an&nbsp;advanced calibration, recommended only to&nbsp;experienced users.</div>
The Extrusion Multiplier allows the fine-tuning of the extrusion flow rate - simply described as&nbsp;how much filament comes out of the nozzle. In other words, the&nbsp;Extrusion Multiplier&nbsp;setting in PrusaSlicer and the&nbsp;Flow rate&nbsp;setting in printer firmware are two ways to adjust the same thing, however, adjusting one of those two settings will not influence the value of the other.
This procedure is not necessary with a new printer coming from the factory, but rather applies for specific applications and filaments. The ideal value is different for every type of material and every color. It can even differ from spool to spool. Bear this in mind if you change type and brand of filament often or use cheap no-name brands.
<div class="note-callout">Total flow rate = Flow multiplier in firmware (M221) x Extrusion multiplier in PrusaSlicer. For those interested in diving deeper, PrusaSlicer uses the same <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Flow math as Slic3r</a>.</div>
<h3>How to spot an issue</h3>
This calibration is used to fix two common problems:
<ul>
<li>Overextrusion - Too much material is extruded (flow is too high). It causes scarring of bottom layers and unnecessary material buildup on top layers.</li>
<li>Minor under extrusion&nbsp;- Not enough material is extruded (flow is too low). It causes small gaps that appear between layer lines or perimeters.</li>
</ul>
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-600x282.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-800x376.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-300x141.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-768x361.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-1536x721.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="852" height="400">
Overextrusion is a common problem with many filament brands. It's especially problematic when you're trying to glue two parts of the model. If the top layer is over extruded, you'll end up with an uneven surface that will prevent a seamless connection between the two pieces.
<h3>How to do the calibration</h3>
In PrusaSlicer, navigate to Filament Settings and look for Extrusion Multiplier. The default setting (for PLA) is 1, this value represents a percentage, 1 = 100%, 0.95 = 95% etc. Usually, the adjusted values can be between 0.9 and 1.1. To adjust it, simply rewrite the value.
<img decoding="async" style="max-height: 200px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/image-2019-1-15-12-55-6.png" data-hd-height="200px">
In the printer menu, during a print, go to the Tune menu and then choose Flow. Again, the usual values can range between 90 and 110, although that does not mean you can't go above or below that.
<h4>Which method should I use?</h4>
There are two methods you can use to calibrate the Extrusion Multiplier, and we'll cover both of them in this article:
<ul>
<li>Precise Method&nbsp; -&nbsp; using precision tools such as calipers or micrometers.</li>
<li>Visual Method&nbsp;&nbsp;- an easy method based on observing the visual properties of your models.</li>
</ul>
The choice of the method depends entirely on your preferences; in the end, both yield similar results. Even the visual method will enable you to have perfectly fitting parts with smooth &amp; flat top layers.
<h4>Precise Method</h4>
<div class="note-callout">Please note that the following guide is based on default PrusaSlicer 0.4 nozzle profiles, with a layer height of 0.1mm - 0.2mm. This means that: 
- Nozzle size = 0.4 
- Extrusion width =&nbsp;0.45 
- Basic materials (PLA, ABS, PETG) Extrusion Multiplier = 1 
If you wish to calibrate the printer with a bigger/smaller nozzle or layer heights above 0.2, then you will need to adjust these values as well.</div>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/cube-40-40-40.zip">Precision Method Cube STL</a>.</li>
<li>Slice it using the Vase Mode and your most-often used layer height and print it. You can find Vase mode (Print Settings →&nbsp; Layers and perimeters →&nbsp; Spiral vase).</li>
<li>Make three or more measurements in the middle of each wall and calculate the overall average thickness.</li>
<li>Calculate the extrusion multiplier using the following formula: Extrusion multiplier = (Extrusion width (0.45) / Average measured wall thickness).</li>
<li>Adjust the Extrusion Multiplier in Filament Settings → Filament</li>
<li>Re-print the cube with new settings and go back to step 3 if necessary.</li>
</ol>
<img decoding="async" style="max-height: 220px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/micrometer-small-jpg.JPG" height="400" data-hd-height="220px">
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that cheap digital calipers may not be accurate enough to make reliable measurements of a single perimeter wall.</div>
<h4>Visual Method</h4>
This method does not require any tools, only your sight. The point is to make sure your top layers are smooth, shiny, and without scarring or filament buildup near the perimeters.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-600x374.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-800x499.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-300x187.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-768x479.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-1536x958.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="641" height="400">
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/visual-method-cube.zip">Visual Method Cube.stl</a></li>
<li>Slice it using the default Prusa PLA presets at 0.20mm layer height and print it.</li>
<li>Inspect the top layer of your cube visually and with the tip of the finger.</li>
<li>If the top is under extruded or not smooth, then re-adjust the Extrusion Multiplier accordingly by 1-2%.</li>
<li>Repeat the steps above as long as needed.</li>
</ol>
If there is&nbsp;too much material&nbsp;near the perimeters,&nbsp;decrease&nbsp;the Extrusion Multiplier value.
<img decoding="async" style="max-height: 390px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/buildu.jpg" data-hd-height="390px" data-hd-align="left">
If there are&nbsp;visible gaps&nbsp;between layer lines,&nbsp;increase the Extrusion Multiplier value. (Microscopic gaps near the perimeters are OK.)
<img decoding="async" style="max-height: 430px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/gaps.jpg" data-hd-height="430px" data-hd-align="left">

Extrusion multiplier calibration

<div><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div>PETG is one of the most easily printable materials, it is inexpensive and suitable for beginners. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it suitable for printing technical parts (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Recommended nozzle temperature: 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Recommended bed temperature: 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Heatbed: Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/">PETG</a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its low price and good printability. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).
PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and does not shrink or warp (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often prevent it from breaking. Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). Parts of our printers are made of PETG!
The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a food-safe(epoxy) coating. Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
Although PETG is frequently used in food industry and is considered food-safe, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest applying a special layer that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.
Some of the manufacturers enrich PETG with various additives and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.
To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
Pros
</th>
<th>
Cons
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
✔ Easy to print
</td>
<td>
✖ Possibility of stringing
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
✔ Good layer adhesion
</td>
<td>
✖ Poor bridging and overhangs
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
✔ Tough and durable
</td>
<td>
✖ Not great for printing detailed parts
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
✔ Low warping
</td>
<td>
✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
✖ Supports are hard to remove
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
Temperature settings and cooling
Unlike PLA, PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C). Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine. It’s important to cool the PETG print - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.
<div class="warning-callout">Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
Print surface preparation
Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.
Adding more perimeters for more solid parts
If you want to print truly solid parts, try to increase the number of perimeters instead of adding more infill.
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.
Dissolving PETG
Dissolving and smoothing PETG is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using dangerous chemicals (Dichloromethane).
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Electronics cover and other printer parts</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Ukulele</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Various mechanical parts</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Electronic parts</td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;">Boxes and organizers</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>

PETG

Original Prusa i3 MK3S/MK3S+ to MK3.5 upgrade

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Prusa Connect &amp; PrusaLink

PrusaSlicer separates the printer connection settings from the Printer profile into a Physical printer profile.
You can create a new Physical profile by clicking Add printer in the printer profile select box or by clicking the cog icon and picking Add physical printer.
<img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-600x181.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-800x241.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-300x90.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-768x231.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-1536x463.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-2048x617.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="503" height="152" loading="lazy" />
In the Physical printer dialog, you can name the printer and assign it one or more printer profiles. If you're using, for example, the MMU2S upgrade, you only have to set one physical printer, but you can have both Single mode and MMU profiles linked to it.
<img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-800x449.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-300x168.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/physical-printer-768x431.png 768w" alt="" width="561" height="315" loading="lazy" />
If you have a Physical printer with network info filled out selected as your current printer, you can send generated G-codes directly to your device.
<h3>PrusaConnect</h3>
If you'd like to send files to your printer via PrusaConnect, add a Physical printer or Edit an existing one.
Select PrusaConnect from the select box as the Host type. The hostname/IP will be automatically filled, you don't have to change it.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/a6e53887e520db647ad830515ac5fb8a.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)" alt="" width="1121" height="711" />
To find your API key, go to PrusaConnect, select the printer you want to send the files to, go to the Settings tab and scroll down to he API keys section. Copy PrusaConnect API key to the Physical printer window and confirm with OK.
<img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/6b5c2148f1bc36255fed667a753a2c50_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)" alt="" width="1600" height="1054" />

Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)

Buddy firmware-specific G-code commands

<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>

2.7.1

Initial release for Original Prusa MK3.5

5.2.0

1.00

<ul>
<li>MMU3 support for the MK3.5</li>
</ul>

5.2.1

<ul>
<li>Bed Level Correction</li>



<li>Support for Revo hotend</li>



<li>Mesh bed leveling fix (7x7)</li>
</ul>

5.2.2

<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>

2.7.3

<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>

2.7.4

<ul>
<li>Touch support</li>



<li>Stealth mode</li>



<li>MMU3 support</li>



<li>MMU3 firmware auto-update</li>



<li>Time Zone settings updated</li>



<li>Bed Level Correction (MK3.5, MINI)</li>



<li>Improvements by the Prusa community</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>

6.0.0

<ul>
<li>Japanese language support (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>



<li>Stealth mode corrected (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>
</ul>

6.0.1

<ul>
<li>Improvements by Prusa community</li>
</ul>

6.0.2

<ul>
<li>Interim solution of USB disconnect issues (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL)</li>



<li>PINDA off-bed probing repaired (MK3.5)</li>
</ul>

6.0.3

<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>

2.8.0

6.0.4

<ul>
<li>Support for MK3.9S and MK3.5S printers</li>



<li>Numeric keyboard</li>



<li>Custom names for steel sheet</li>



<li>User-configurable hostname</li>



<li>Binary G-code check</li>



<li>ESP firmware flash during boot (MINI, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.5</li>



<li>Network Status screen</li>



<li>Steel sheet name in footer (MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Powered Z-motors during calibration procedure (MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>Default nozzle diameter set to 0.4 (XL)</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>

6.1.2

<ul>
<li>Issues with numeric keyboard repaired (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)</li>



<li>Returned nozzle diameter setup (XL)</li>



<li>Printhead position during calibrations changed (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Cold pull (XL)</li>
</ul>

6.1.3

<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>

2.8.1

<ul>
<li>Multiple beds and bulk export</li>



<li>Scarf seams</li>



<li>Printables integration</li>



<li>Paint-on fuzzy skin</li>



<li>Improvements in painting tools and multi-material slicing</li>



<li>Basic support for printing with different nozzle diameters</li>
</ul>

Original Prusa MK3.5

Articles

Sending G-codes to printer via network (PrusaConnect, PrusaLink, Octoprint)

Buddy firmware-specific G-code commands

Still have questions?