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1b. Printer disassembly

1b. Printer disassembly
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Last updated 2 months ago
1b. Printer disassembly
 Difficulty
Easy
 Steps
28
 Available languages
CSPLDEESITFRJA
Tools necessary for this chapter
Tools necessary for this chapter
Tools necessary for this chapter
For this chapter, please prepare:
Needle-nose pliers for cutting zip ties
Philips (PH2) screwdriver
2.0 mm Allen key for heatbed screws
2.5mm Allen key for all M3 screws
Disconnecting cables
Disconnecting cables
Disconnecting cables
Disconnecting cables
Some units may have cable bundles secured with zip ties. Carefully cut the zip ties.
Avoid cutting the cables. Although no cable or electronic parts will be needed for the upgrade, you can keep them for a project of your own.
Release two screws in the heatbed-cable-clip and remove it from the printer.
Disconnect all cables from the Einsy board.
Cable management, Einsy board, and wiring colors may vary between printer models.
Some of the cables have a safety latch on the connector. Press the latch before disconnecting.
Using the screwdriver, release the screws on all power cables and disconnect them from the Einsy board.
Release two screws in the extruder-cable-clip and remove it from the printer.
Removing the Einsy-base
Removing the Einsy-base
Removing the Einsy-base
Removing the Einsy-base
Inside the Einsy-base, loosen the screw under the Einsy (electronics board).
No need to remove the screw completely at this time.
From the opposite side of the Einsy-base, locate the screw behind the cooling fins and loosen it, no need to remove it.
Grasp the Einsy-base and slide it out of the printer frame.
Removing the Einsy-door
Removing the Einsy-door
Release two screws securing the hinges.
Remove the Einsy-door with the hinges from the printer frame.
Remove the remaining two screws from the frame.
Removing the heatbed
Removing the heatbed
Removing the heatbed
Release nine countersunk screws securing the heatbed.
Remove the heatbed from the Y-carriage.
After removing the heatbed, there are nine unattached spacers on the Y-carriage. Watch out, they tend to fall off. After removing them, count them all to be sure.
You will no longer need these parts for the upgrade. We are more concerned that this small part is not found later by your child or your dog and that no injury occurs.
We recommend placing the heatbed temporarily on a piece of clean cloth or other soft pad.
Dismantling cable management
Dismantling cable management
Dismantling cable management
Dismantling cable management
Place the printer on the side with the PSU.
Focus on the left Z-axis motor.
Cut the zip ties securing the cable bundle.
The number of zip ties may vary between printer models.
Cut the zip ties in the right Z-axis motor.
Leave the cables free for now.
Removing the LCD assembly
Removing the LCD assembly
Removing the LCD assembly
Carefully remove the LCD cables from the extrusion.
Place the printer back on its feet.
Release four M3 screws securing the LCD assembly in the front plate.
Remove the LCD assembly from the printer.
Dismantling the Y-axis: removing the belt
Dismantling the Y-axis: removing the belt
Dismantling the Y-axis: removing the belt
Release two M3 screws securing the Y-belt-idler in the front plate.
Remove the Y-belt-idler from the front plate. Leave it free "inside" the frame for now.
Take the belt off the GT2-16 pulley on the Y-axis motor.
Removing the Y-axis assembly
Removing the Y-axis assembly
Removing the Y-axis assembly
Removing the Y-axis assembly
Release and remove two M3 screws securing each Y-rod-holder in the front plate.
Note: MK3 and MK3S printers have different Y-rod-holder designs. At this point, the difference doesn't matter.
Release and remove two M3 screws securing each Y-rod-holder in the rear plate.
Remove the entire Y-axis assembly from the printer.
Do not remove any parts from the assembly at this time.
Removing the Z-axis-tops
Removing the Z-axis-tops
Removing the Z-axis-tops
On the Z-axis-top-left, release two M3 screws.
Remove the Z-axis-top-left from the printer.
On the Z-axis-top-right, release two M3 screws.
Remove the Z-axis-top-right.
Removing the cable-holder
Removing the cable-holder
Removing the cable-holder
From the back of the extruder, cut three zip ties at the top of the textile sleeve wraps the cable bundle. And two zip ties on the underside of the cable-holder.
Some MK3 units may have a rubber spiral wrap instead of the textile sleeve.
Loosen the M3 screw securing the cable-holder.
Remove the cable-holder from the extruder.
Removing the X-axis assembly
Removing the X-axis assembly
Removing the X-axis assembly
From the front side of the printer, rotate both threaded Z-axis rods in parallel to move the X-axis assembly upwards. Stop when the trapezoid nuts of the X-axis assembly come out of the threaded rods.
Remove the X-axis assembly from the printer.
Pull out both Z-axis smooth rods from the Z-bottoms.
Removing the Z-axis motors
Removing the Z-axis motors
Removing the Z-axis motors
Release four M3 screws from both Z-bottom securing the Z-axis motors.
Remove the motors by pulling them out from underneath.
Removing the Z-axis-bottoms
Removing the Z-axis-bottoms
Removing the Z-axis-bottoms
Release three M3 screws on both Z-axis-bottom-right and Z-axis-bottom-left.
Remove the Z-axis-bottoms from the printer.
Removing the Y-motor
Removing the Y-motor
Removing the Y-motor
From the back of the printer, release two M3 screws securing the Y-axis motor assembly on the rear plate.
Remove the Y-axis motor assembly from the printer.
Peel off the sticker with the serial number of your printer. After the printer upgrade is complete, you will stick the label with the new serial number.
The serial number label can be on the back of the rear plate or on the back of the printer above the PSU.
Disconnecting the power cables
Disconnecting the power cables
Disconnecting the power cables
Disconnecting the power cables
This step is only for the black PSU only! Do not disassemble the silver PSU under any circumstances!!
Place the printer frame on its left side (the side without the PSU).
Focus on the cables guiding from the PSU.
Release two M3 screws inside the PSU-cover.
Remove the PSU-cover from the PSU.
Disconnect all power cables from the PSU.
Disconnect the power panic cable from the PSU.
Disassembling the Y-carriage: belt
Disassembling the Y-carriage: belt
Now the printer is disassembled into subassemblies. Some subassemblies require even minor surgery. Let's get started.
Take the Y-axis assembly.
Release two M3 screws securing the Y-belt-holder and Y-belt-tensioner.
MK3 has a different-looking part Y-belt-holder. However, the procedure is the same.
The Y-carriage part may differ from the picture depending on your printer model.
Remove the belt assembly from the Y-carriage.
Dissasembling the Y-carriage: rod holders
Dissasembling the Y-carriage: rod holders
Dissasembling the Y-carriage: rod holders
Dissasembling the Y-carriage: rod holders
There are the M3 screws on the Y-rod-holders. Loosen the screw and take the Y-rod-holder off the rod.
MK3 and MK3S use a zip tie instead of a screw. Cut off the zip tie and remove the Y-rod-holder from the rod.
Do the same with all four Y-rod-holders.
Remove the smooth rods from the Y-carriage assembly.
Disassembling the Y-carriage: bearings
Disassembling the Y-carriage: bearings
Disassembling the Y-carriage: bearings
Release two screws on each bearing clip on the Y-carriage.
MK3 and MK3S have U-bolts instead of bearing clips secured with two M3nN nuts on the opposite side.
Early MK3S+ units have bearing clips secured by two M3nN nuts on the opposite side.
Remove the bearing clip and the bearing.
In this way, remove all three bearings from the Y-carriage.
Removing the X-axis motor
Removing the X-axis motor
Removing the X-axis motor
Removing the X-axis motor
Loosen the tensioning screw on the X-end-motor on the X-axis.
Note that the screw position may vary depending on the printer model.
Release three M3 screws securing the X-axis motor.
Pull the X-axis motor and pulley out of the belt and remove it from the X-axis.
Removing the X-axis smooth rods
Removing the X-axis smooth rods
Removing the X-axis smooth rods
Removing the X-axis smooth rods
Pull the X-end-motor from the X-axis assembly.
It can be difficult to remove the part and more force is required. Use extreme caution to avoid injury.
Slide the extruder assembly completely from the X-axis assembly. You don't need it anymore.
Pull out both smooth rods from the X-end-idler.
It can be difficult to remove the parts and more force is required. Use extreme caution to avoid injury.
Keep the smooth rods aside, you will need them for the upgrade.
Removing the X-axis bearings
Removing the X-axis bearings
Removing the X-axis bearings
Release all the M3 screws securing the X-carriage-back on the back of the extruder assembly and remove it.
Cut off the zip ties securing both upper bearings.
Take off all LM8UU bearings from the extruder.
Visually check their condition again. If they are in good condition, put them aside to use later when upgrading your printer.
Alternatively, you can use the LM8UU bearings from the X-ends that have not been subjected to so much stress during the printing. However, removing them is more difficult.
Parts summary
Parts summary
Parts summary
Parts summary
The printer and its subassemblies are disassembled into individual parts. Let's show which parts will be needed for the next steps to upgrade the printer.
Prepare the following parts for the next chapters:
Printer frame with the PSU (1x)
Y-carriage (1x)
Heatbed assembly (1x)
Smooth rod 8x370 mm (2x) X-axis
Smooth rod 8x330 mm (2x) Y-axis
LM8UU bearing (6x) from X and Y-axis
Don't throw away
Don't throw away
Retain the power cord to the PSU, flexible steel sheet(s) and spool holder to use the printer.
You will no longer need the parts not listed for the upgrade. Keep them aside to avoid mixing with new parts.
Can I take a gummy bear yet?
Can I take a gummy bear yet?
No gummy bears yet? Please hold on.
We do not want to keep you waiting, but the correct dosage of gummy bears is very important for the whole procedure.
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