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                  1. Support
                  2. Printer troubleshooting
                  3. Heatbed not heating up properly
                   

                  Contents

                  • Temperature measurements
                  • Initial checks
                  • Thermistor test
                  • IPA Test = uneven heating
                  • Slow preheat process
                  • Measuring resistance/voltage
                  • Measuring voltages
                  • Disconnect Power Panic

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                  Heatbed not heating up properly

                  Relevant for

                  Plus 1.75 mm
                  MK2.5
                  MK2.5S
                  MK3
                  MK3S
                  +
                  25 comments
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                  If your Heatbed does not heat up, there are a couple of things you should check to identify the source of the issue.

                  Temperature measurements

                  Measuring the temperature with an IR thermometer is not the correct way to measure it. It measures an average of a circle that is much bigger than the laser point in its center, so it may show significantly lower temp at the side of the heatbed. Furthermore, it also has a parameter called emissivity, which is usually fixed for cheaper thermometers. To simplify emissivity, it measures different temperatures based on the surface.

                  There is a difference between the steel sheet temperature and heatbed bottom temperature (~5-10°C).

                  The correct way to measure the temperature is a thermistor or contact temperature probe fixed to the sheet with a bit of thermal paste. This may still measure around 5°C lower than the actual temperature.

                  Initial checks

                  If you received an error, we recommend start checking the respective articles of that error, like:

                  • MINTEMP
                  • MAXTEMP
                  • Thermal Runaway
                  • Preheat Error
                  If no error has presented itself, please proceed with the troubleshooting steps outlined below.
                  1. Visually check that your Heated bed is not badly damaged or does not have exposed traces. As long as the trace is not broken, as is shown in the right picture below, it can be fixed with a few layers of nail polish painted over it.
                  Traces cut. Replacement required.Superficial scratch. Can be mended.
                  Even a small scratch can cause issues or electrical noise during heating.
                  1. Check that your Heated bed thermistor is properly attached under the golden Kapton tape. If you notice the thermistor is hanging freely, unattached to the bed, undo the 6-9 bolts holding the bed to the Y-carriage and re-secure the thermistor using Kapton tape.
                  Not the two types of tape securing the thermistor. There is a layer of aluminum foil tape underneath the layer of kapton tape.loose termistor
                  Correctly secured thermistorLoose thermistor. Will not work!
                  1. Check the power connection:
                      • MK2/s: Loosen Heated bed connectors in the miniRAMBO board. Simply open the miniRAMBO box and unplug and re-plug the connector. Please see Mini RAMBo electronics wiring (MK2S, MK2.5, MK2.5S) for more info.
                      • MK3/S: Open the EinsyRAMBO box and inspect the two far-right screwed power terminals, at the bottom of the board. Please see Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+) for more info.

                  Thermistor test

                  Hairdryer

                  The best and easiest way is to take a hairdryer and blow hot air in below the Heatbed. During this process, check if there is any temperature change on the LCD. If there is a change it means your thermistor is working. If there is no change at all, your thermistor is defective.

                  Swapping connections

                  If the hairdryer test is inconclusive you can test whether the port on the mainboard is damaged. Swap the connection of the Hotend thermistor and heatbed thermistor.

                  IPA Test = uneven heating

                  To see whether the surface is heating evenly or at all, we suggest wiping down the heat bed surface with Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) cold and then heating the heatbed through the Preheat menu or LCD menu -> Temperatures -> Bed. The alcohol will evaporate when heated, exposing areas that are not heating at all. 

                  Slow preheat process

                  Remove the printed cover at the back left of the heated bed and check the following.

                  1. Damaged Heated bed cables at any spot.
                  2. PSU cables are properly attached to the miniRAMBO/EinsyRAMBO board and not damaged at any spot.
                  Usually, cables can be damaged around the Zip-ties, as this can cause stress on the cables if overtightened.

                  Measuring resistance/voltage

                  The resistance of the heated bed thermistor should be approximately 100K at room temperature (the same goes for the thermistor on the hot end if you are curious!)

                  If you are unfamiliar with how to use a multimeter, we have an article on Multimeter usage.

                  The resistance of the heated bed should be:

                      • 1 Ohm on MK2/S
                      • 3.4 Ohm on MK3/S
                    • Don't worry if the resistance oscillates around the mentioned value. 

                  Measuring voltages

                  Original Prusa MK2/S:

                  • The voltage going to the heated bed should be ~12V
                  • The voltage coming from the PSU to the miniRAMBO should be ~12V too

                  Original Prusa MK3/S:

                  • The voltage going to the heated bed should be ~24V
                  • The voltage coming from the PSU to the EinsyRAMBO should be ~24V too

                  Disconnect Power Panic

                  In some rare cases, the PowerPanic has interfered with the operation of MK3/S/+. If non of the steps outlined above resolves it, try to disconnect the PowerPanic cable from the EinsyRAMBo. Please see Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+) for what to disconnect.

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                  Topics

                  • Troubleshooting
                    • Printer troubleshooting
                      • Blown Fuse (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • Extrusion stopped mid-print (Heat creep)
                      • Spaghetti monster
                      • Extruder blob
                      • Clogged nozzle/hotend (MK3.5/S, MK3S+, MK2.5S)
                      • Extruder noises
                      • Filament Not Loading
                      • Misaligned PINDA Sensor (MK2/S)
                      • Print fan is not spinning
                      • Hotend fan is not spinning
                      • Heatbed not heating up properly
                      • P.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA Sensor testing
                      • SD card not working
                      • LCD screen not working
                      • Printer does not turn on or keeps turning off
                      • Blown Fuse (MK2S/MK2.5/MK2.5S)
                      • MK3S keeps prompting filament change
                      • Vibration when printing (MK3S+/MK2.5S)
                      • Factory reset (MK2S/MK2.5S/MK3S)
                      • Firmware updating issues (MK2.5S/MK3S+/MMU2S/MMU3)
                      • Nozzle crashed into the heatbed
                      • External SPI flash W25X20CL/xFLASH not responding - error
                      • IR Filament Sensor Troubleshooting (MK2.5S, MK3S)
                      • Failing Z calibration (MK3S/MK2.5S)
                      • Ambient temperature check (MK3/MK3S)
                      • PrusaLink Troubleshooting
                      • Tangled filament
                      • SD cards and USB drives
                    • Print Quality Troubleshooting
                    • QR Error codes
                    • Print Error Messages

                  11 comments

                  Log in  to post a comment
                  rmolnar
                  •
                  I have a mk2.5 whose print bed stopped heating mid-print. Ive check thermistor, heater resistance on connector on Rambo13a side and 15A fuse all test good. Trying to preheat, I get 0V on the heater connector on the rambo13a side. Is there something else to try? Is there a component on the Rambo board besides the fuse that can cause this behavior?
                  Reply
                  D Towell
                  •
                  The resistance of my heat bed thermistor is 135k.  Is that too high or is it within specs?
                  D Towell
                  Reply
                  David B.
                  •

                  Hi! It is within the specs if your bed is at 55-60C temperature.

                  Reply
                  RadTechDad
                  •
                  For repairs, does it have to be nail Polish? What if I have some black enamel paint?Can I use that instead?
                  Reply
                  Giuliano - Official Prusa CS
                  •
                  Hello. On paper it sounds like a good idea, but we haven't tested the enamel paint on the heatbed, so I can't advise to use that product.
                  Reply
                  sohackitj
                  •
                  I would like to submit a problem I had with my MK3S heated bed. I had the printer for almost 2 years when I noticed problems with printing PETG. Initially I thought it was an extruder/nozzle issue, but when the machine failed to complete the mesh bed levelling, I discovered that the steel sheet was warping as the bed heated up. It created a hump in the middle of the bed which reached a height of approx 1.5mm above than the rest of the sheet. The hump started forming at about 55 degrees, and reached the point that mesh bed levelling failed at about 75 degrees. Suspecting an issue with the heat bed, I measured the voltage going to and resistance of the heated bed:
                  https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/multimeter-usage_2117
                  The voltage was solid at 24.3v but the resistance was 7ohms, which is nearly double the specs. I ordered a new heated bed from Prusa, installed it and the problem is fixed. I used a thermal camera to take pictures of the malfunctioning bed, and of the new one. The pics show a big difference in the distribution of heat. I made a video of my experience here which includes the thermal camera images:
                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJB2P6fX6DQ
                  Hopefully this wil help anyone having the same issues, as I could not find much information on this particular problem
                   
                   
                   
                  Reply
                  Hatty
                  •
                  Thank you for that video. My printer has a similar problem i think. Some track damage on the bed causing uneven heating and warpage leading to bed levelling failure. Have played around with the Pinda and replaced the Pinda cable without success. Bed levelling failing in the center of the bed but not at the edges.
                  I haven't contacted Prusa support, but searching around only points me to the Pinda, and not to the bed.
                  Reply
                  Noel Henderson
                  •
                  I'm not sure whether I have a problem with the hot bed or if this is normal. My hotbed does not heat up evenly and it does not seem to heat consistantly. I have done the tests suggested here and can't find anything out of order but if I measure the temperature of the bed with an IR pyrometer there are inconsistancies. One is that the bed temperature drops during the print cycle as much as 10 degrees C. I have set the slicer to maintain the temperature I want evenly throughout the print. Another issue is that the temperature is about 6 to 10 degrees C lower along the left side of the bed than it is elsewhere. The printer is in a room in my house with no drafts and is kept at 20 to 22 degrees C.
                  Reply
                  William H. - Official Prusa
                  •

                  I would contact support with some pictures/video of what is happening, the wiring to the board and info which printer it is. I am sure they will figure it out with your help:)

                  Reply