Different nozzles

Updated 2 months ago ​by Martin Lexa

Our printers come equipped with a standard E3D 0.4 mm brass nozzle. However, there is a whole ecosystem of nozzles with different characteristics on the market. If you decide to get a new nozzle, please refer to our guide for Changing or replacing the nozzle.

Always make sure the nozzle is not loose in the heater block (from the other side, the heatbreak must be also tightened all the way in). However, there must always be a gap in between the nozzle head and the heater block.

Hardened steel nozzle by E3D

E3D, a UK-based company, that supplies hotends for the Original Prusa i3 printers, has a whole ecosystem of upgrades and add-ons. We support some of them, including the hardened steel nozzle.

Hardened steel nozzles are a must for highly abrasive materials. Regular brass nozzles will degrade very quickly and lose their properties.

Most of the abrasive materials are composites, plastics with additives. Some examples are ColorFabb XT CF20, ColorFabb Bronzefill, ColorFabb Brassfill, and some glow-in-the-dark filaments. Always ask your filament vendor if you are not sure about filament requirements. A slight disadvantage of the hardened steel nozzle is that some standard materials like ABS cannot be printed as fast as with a regular nozzle.

The Olsson Ruby nozzle

Similarly to the hardened steel nozzle, the Olsson Ruby is designed to print highly abrasive materials. Since it is mostly made of brass, it retains the excellent heat conductivity and throughput of the stock brass nozzle. Even though the ruby gemstone is highly wear-resistant, it’s also brittle. If you have the Live Z adjust value set incorrectly, or if your PINDA probe is not set to a correct distance and the nozzle hits the removable steel sheet, the nozzle may crack. Also, do not overtighten it during assembly.

0.25 and 0.6 nozzles by E3D

Besides the standard 0.4 diameter, we are supporting 0.25 and 0.6 nozzle diameters. On top of that, you can always create and customize your own profiles.To achieve fine detail, you can use a 0.25mm nozzle. We recommend using it only for very small objects, a few centimeters in size, as the print times are considerably longer compared to 0.4mm nozzles. By contrast, if you want to speed up the print and the details are not as important, you can try using the 0.6 mm nozzle.

To adjust preset settings in PrusaSlicer, go to Configuration -> Configuration Wizard and select the printer model you have as well as the nozzle diameter you are currently using.

Unclick all the other models and nozzle diameters to avoid confusing the presets. You can always do the Wizard again and modify the settings.

In case of the 0.25 and 0.6 nozzle profiles, the diameter is always stated in the name of the profile. If you don't have the words "0.25 nozzle" or "0.6 nozzle" in the profile name, don't slice the model!

Different nozzle diameters

If you want to use a nozzle with a different diameter than the ones we already mentioned, you have to create the profile in PrusaSlicer by yourself. Starting with your standard 0.4 nozzle, you have to change the Nozzle diameter in the Printer Settings and Extrusion width (percentage wise). Keep in mind that the maximal layer height is always around 80% of nozzle diameter.

Maximal print speed may need to be reduced if the infill isn't adhering properly.
The First Layer Calibration is meant to be done with the 0.4 nozzle. Do not run it with any other nozzle diameter, as it will feed too much or too little filament, possibly causing a clog.
To avoid clogging, we recommend using our Prusament, as it has a low diameter variation tolerance of ±0.02 mm.

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Find out more troubleshooting tips here: Community Forum | Assembly Manuals | Youtube channel | info@prusa3d.com


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