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Heatbed not heating up properly

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Plus 1.75 mm
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If your Heatbed does not heat up, there are a couple of things you should check to identify the source of the issue.

Temperature measurements

Measuring the temperature with an IR thermometer is not the correct way to measure it. It measures an average of a circle that is much bigger than the laser point in its center, so it may show significantly lower temp at the side of the heatbed. Furthermore, it also has a parameter called emissivity, which is usually fixed for cheaper thermometers. To simplify emissivity, it measures different temperatures based on the surface.

There is a difference between the steel sheet temperature and heatbed bottom temperature (~5-10°C).

The correct way to measure the temperature is a thermistor or contact temperature probe fixed to the sheet with a bit of thermal paste. This may still measure around 5°C lower than the actual temperature.

Initial checks

If you received an error, we recommend start checking the respective articles of that error, like:

If no error has presented itself, please proceed with the troubleshooting steps outlined below.
  1. Visually check that your Heated bed is not badly damaged or does not have exposed traces. As long as the trace is not broken, as is shown in the right picture below, it can be fixed with a few layers of nail polish painted over it.
Traces cut. Replacement required.Superficial scratch. Can be mended.
Even a small scratch can cause issues or electrical noise during heating.
  1. Check that your Heated bed thermistor is properly attached under the golden Kapton tape. If you notice the thermistor is hanging freely, unattached to the bed, undo the 6-9 bolts holding the bed to the Y-carriage and re-secure the thermistor using Kapton tape.
Not the two types of tape securing the thermistor. There is a layer of aluminum foil tape underneath the layer of kapton tape.
loose termistor
Correctly secured thermistorLoose thermistor. Will not work!
  1. Check the power connection:

Thermistor test

Hairdryer

The best and easiest way is to take a hairdryer and blow hot air in below the Heatbed. During this process, check if there is any temperature change on the LCD. If there is a change it means your thermistor is working. If there is no change at all, your thermistor is defective.

Swapping connections

If the hairdryer test is inconclusive you can test whether the port on the mainboard is damaged. Swap the connection of the Hotend thermistor and heatbed thermistor.

IPA Test = uneven heating

To see whether the surface is heating evenly or at all, we suggest wiping down the heat bed surface with Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) cold and then heating the heatbed through the Preheat menu or LCD menu -> Temperatures -> Bed. The alcohol will evaporate when heated, exposing areas that are not heating at all. 

Slow preheat process

Remove the printed cover at the back left of the heated bed and check the following.

  1. Damaged Heated bed cables at any spot.
  2. PSU cables are properly attached to the miniRAMBO/EinsyRAMBO board and not damaged at any spot.
Usually, cables can be damaged around the Zip-ties, as this can cause stress on the cables if overtightened.

Measuring resistance/voltage

The resistance of the heated bed thermistor should be approximately 100K at room temperature (the same goes for the thermistor on the hot end if you are curious!)

If you are unfamiliar with how to use a multimeter, we have an article on Multimeter usage.

The resistance of the heated bed should be:

      • 1 Ohm on MK2/S
      • 3.4 Ohm on MK3/S
    • Don't worry if the resistance oscillates around the mentioned value. 

Measuring voltages

Original Prusa MK2/S:

  • The voltage going to the heated bed should be ~12V
  • The voltage coming from the PSU to the miniRAMBO should be ~12V too

Original Prusa MK3/S:

  • The voltage going to the heated bed should be ~24V
  • The voltage coming from the PSU to the EinsyRAMBO should be ~24V too

Disconnect Power Panic

In some rare cases, the PowerPanic has interfered with the operation of MK3/S/+. If non of the steps outlined above resolves it, try to disconnect the PowerPanic cable from the EinsyRAMBo. Please see Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+) for what to disconnect.

 

10 comments

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D Towell
The resistance of my heat bed thermistor is 135k.  Is that too high or is it within specs?
D Towell
David B.

Hi! It is within the specs if your bed is at 55-60C temperature.

RadTechDad
For repairs, does it have to be nail Polish? What if I have some black enamel paint?Can I use that instead?
Giuliano - Official Prusa CS
Hello. On paper it sounds like a good idea, but we haven't tested the enamel paint on the heatbed, so I can't advise to use that product.
sohackitj
I would like to submit a problem I had with my MK3S heated bed. I had the printer for almost 2 years when I noticed problems with printing PETG. Initially I thought it was an extruder/nozzle issue, but when the machine failed to complete the mesh bed levelling, I discovered that the steel sheet was warping as the bed heated up. It created a hump in the middle of the bed which reached a height of approx 1.5mm above than the rest of the sheet. The hump started forming at about 55 degrees, and reached the point that mesh bed levelling failed at about 75 degrees. Suspecting an issue with the heat bed, I measured the voltage going to and resistance of the heated bed:
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/multimeter-usage_2117
The voltage was solid at 24.3v but the resistance was 7ohms, which is nearly double the specs. I ordered a new heated bed from Prusa, installed it and the problem is fixed. I used a thermal camera to take pictures of the malfunctioning bed, and of the new one. The pics show a big difference in the distribution of heat. I made a video of my experience here which includes the thermal camera images:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJB2P6fX6DQ
Hopefully this wil help anyone having the same issues, as I could not find much information on this particular problem
 
 
 
Noel Henderson
I'm not sure whether I have a problem with the hot bed or if this is normal. My hotbed does not heat up evenly and it does not seem to heat consistantly. I have done the tests suggested here and can't find anything out of order but if I measure the temperature of the bed with an IR pyrometer there are inconsistancies. One is that the bed temperature drops during the print cycle as much as 10 degrees C. I have set the slicer to maintain the temperature I want evenly throughout the print. Another issue is that the temperature is about 6 to 10 degrees C lower along the left side of the bed than it is elsewhere. The printer is in a room in my house with no drafts and is kept at 20 to 22 degrees C.
William H. - Official Prusa

I would contact support with some pictures/video of what is happening, the wiring to the board and info which printer it is. I am sure they will figure it out with your help:)

PilotMarky
I had an issue where my heatbed and hotend failed the start test. They weren't heating at all. I ran through the checks of thermistors (blow dryer), multimetered the fuses, powered up the heatbed with an alternate power supply to confirm it's function, and found 0v on both the outputs from the Einsy. It turned out that disconnecting the Power Panic cable from the PSU enabled the heatbed and hotend to heat up, so it was a faulty Power Panic controller in the PSU. New PSU on the way!
Mamoru T
The same issue occurred on my printer. At first the support staff and I thought the Einsy board was a defective product and they sent me another one. I replaced with it but nothing changed. Thanks to your post I could heat up both hotend and heatbed. Thank you for sharing your experience.
William H. - Official Prusa

Thank you for the feedback. This and related articles will see an overhaul soon:)